You've probably already thought of this but installing draw wires in the conduits will make it much easier when you eventually pull your cables. Love your videos. Cheers.
Thanks again. Love watching it come together. Heads up on the weighing…. La vagabond had their boat emptied then lifted by crane to get weight. Eventually the driver admitted that the weighing scale built in was unreliable. Probably worth ensuring that the crane has accurate scales before booking…
There are hatches that are fixed and just have a spike hammer fixed next to them .. the problem that have shown up on some cats is through waves splashing up under the bridge deck and leaks occurring or being sucked open..breaking the catches.
When adding filler to epoxy place container in a box cut hole in bottom of box and connect a vacuum it will stop filler becoming airborne and get sucked up in vacuum
Interesting to hear about your writing career, I noticed that talking about the boat building process seem to be easy for you. (you are also good at sweating the details)
Talking isn't an issue for me, lol! I also write big books, though my readers give me good reviews. I try to keep them exciting. I'm not about my family and friends, but strangers reading them. My average review is about 4.8 out of 5, so I'm happy with that! BTW, I forgot to mention it in the video, but the ebook of zONE is free to read. You can also listen to the audio play for free if you haven't singed up for Audible yet (they give you the first audio book free).
@@SailingSVLynx oh I see, I know nothing about marine lithium batteries, I am used to -48v systems in Telecommunications, being lead acid equates to -54v. Shame you can't increase the number of cells to decrease the current.
Our previous cat was a leopard cat and on both bridgedeck sides we had 2 x 50mm pvc conduits and at the back of the saloon the same beneath the floor and then one right down the middle under the floor in the saloon. This boat was a pleasure to pull new wires when you upgrade and I did a lot. On our Catana which we have now there are no conduits running just stainless cages under the floor. This makes running things so long and difficult. I curse every time I need to do an upgrade. It’s nasty. My advice rather have to many than suffer down the road as far as access to your boat is concerned and conduits !
We agree! We will have plenty of conduits running down the boat length (so far, about eight). There are two crossing the cockpit and there be more, likely about three, crossing at the forward part of the salon. So, plenty of conduits for water, power, diesel, and electrical.
I know you have a electrical contractor buddy like i am , but im just reminding you to keep your low voltage dc conduits and junction boxes separate from high voltage ac conduits and junction boxes. Thanks for the great show.
@@SailingSVLynx sorry was meant for OP low voltage DC is above 120VDC and high voltage ac is above 1000VAC but your system was 48VDC which is extra low voltave and being US based 120/240VAC which is low voltage, Oh and probably a 12VDC system too
Love the videos, I am wondering if you have thought about having your Victron equipment below the water line. 45 years of boating with a fair amount of coastal And Bahamas cruising and I don’t think I’ve ever had a boat that didn’t get water in the bilge at some point. Always from unexpected wave or rain or something other than a hull leak.
We will put Coppercoat on our rudders, as they will be down at anchor. However the daggerboards are only deployed while moving, so marine growth won't be an issue. Though we might put some down at the lower portion. As for the props, we will be applying a different antifoul, likely Propspeed, which is made for that purpose.
Some advice from numerous boat weighing videos. Ensure well before hand and in person the crane CAN actually weigh the boat and the scale and reader are CALIBRATED appropriately. I’ve not seen a single video where people didn’t run into those issues.
We don't plan on it. If the compartment is entirely sealed and never to be opened, then the glass and epoxy should be enough. However, any compartment that will be opened or is open, will be completely faired and then painted. Also, any compartment below the waterline will be bilge painted.
I'm surprised you expect your empty composite boat to be that heavy 28000 pounds that's around 13 tons. A very similar slighly bigger Dudley Dix DH550 cat made from plywood is listed 12500 kg displacement. A composite boat should be lighter than that.
It's what the design states, it's not something we control. But, I don't want too light of a cat anyway. We're not a racer, we are a cruising boat. We wanted a mid weight cat, I did a video on this already. A Leopard 50 is 44,000 lbs. A Mumby 48 about 17,000 (if I recall correctly).
@@SailingSVLynx It's interesting how reasonably similar aluminum Mumby 48 is about 4 tons lighter than your composite boat. Does it mean your boat is a bit overengineered and Mumby is underengineered? Just curious.
@@armandsbernaus5260 Two things, the Mumby is aluminum, so the weight isn't really comparable. It's just like comparing to a carbon fiber boat, the materials are lighter. However, if you look at an HH50, which is considered a performance boat of similar length, that 50' boat is built with some carbon fiber and composite foam, it weighs 25,353.00 pounds, which is not far from our 26,500 lbs.
@@SailingSVLynx Matt from Duracell has a solution, and can I add given how you have deviated from original weight configuration it would be advisable to get accurate weights from 4 points like Matt demonstrated on his channel, Peace of mind re your water line /weight distribution would be easily worth the cost to hire the devices. Thanks for the feedback, oh the build is looking good really starting to shape up.
@@Nasalies1969 I watched Matt's video on how he weighed the boat. Unfortunately, unlike Matt, we don't have access to those weight sensors. But, we're not worried about weight distribution issues. Schionning has a program that calculates every item and liquid on the boat, and kicks out a COE so we know if we will be in balance, at least close enough. Then, we can fine tune the weight balance once we are in the water and can see where we float along the waterline. It would be nice to know the weight of the boat, but it isn't critical. It's amazing how little change there is with say, an extra 2,000 pounds on board if we exceed the Load Carrying Capacity by that much. The boat would float about 1/4" to 1/2" deeper (6 to 13 mm). We don't want that, but it would only affect sailing performance, not safety, and then only very slightly. Weighing the boat is more for fun than a necessary piece of knowledge in a cruising catamaran, we're not racing. But, even if S/V Lynx is a bit heavier than planned, it's not like we can go in and remove epoxy later, she will weigh what she weighs.
It is nice to only hear one voice naration rather than folks talking over each other.
We're glad you enjoy the videos.
Making great progress guys!! Keep it up!
Thanks, we will!
Another great episode, can't wait until next week. Keep up the good work!
Thanks a ton!
You've probably already thought of this but installing draw wires in the conduits will make it much easier when you eventually pull your cables. Love your videos. Cheers.
Yep, Beuan was an electrician for 35 years, but thanks for chucking!
Did you see Delos's bus bar system? He had to do exactly what you did not want to do and it was an interesting install.
Yes, I did. But, I wanted to keep things as simple and light as possible. Big long busbars are heavy.
Thanks again. Love watching it come together. Heads up on the weighing…. La vagabond had their boat emptied then lifted by crane to get weight. Eventually the driver admitted that the weighing scale built in was unreliable. Probably worth ensuring that the crane has accurate scales before booking…
Yeah, we'll do what we can about that.
The escape hatches usually open outwards towards the ocean. Looking great guys.
Yes, we know, and they will on our boat as well :)
There are hatches that are fixed and just have a spike hammer fixed next to them .. the problem that have shown up on some cats is through waves splashing up under the bridge deck and leaks occurring or being sucked open..breaking the catches.
@@clivestainlesssteelwomble7665 Yes, ours are opening hatches and we'll make sure they are mounted well. :)
Superb work, looks like I will be checking out your books🤓too. Big well done.
Awesome, thank you!
When adding filler to epoxy place container in a box cut hole in bottom of box and connect a vacuum it will stop filler becoming airborne and get sucked up in vacuum
Love to, but how am I supposed to hold and turn various size mixing cups down in a box? It takes a firm grip to mix thickened epoxy.
Interesting to hear about your writing career, I noticed that talking about the boat building process seem to be easy for you. (you are also good at sweating the details)
Talking isn't an issue for me, lol! I also write big books, though my readers give me good reviews. I try to keep them exciting. I'm not about my family and friends, but strangers reading them. My average review is about 4.8 out of 5, so I'm happy with that! BTW, I forgot to mention it in the video, but the ebook of zONE is free to read. You can also listen to the audio play for free if you haven't singed up for Audible yet (they give you the first audio book free).
Great to see to boat come together so quickly. I was curious if the 54v system was going to be -54v or +54v (depending on which is earth).
Well, it's a 48v system, though I suppose technically it is 51.2v. (16 cells x 3.2v). I'm assuming positive.
@@SailingSVLynx oh I see, I know nothing about marine lithium batteries, I am used to -48v systems in Telecommunications, being lead acid equates to -54v. Shame you can't increase the number of cells to decrease the current.
In my 56ft tri I had a wetting out table and would start tabbing late or mid afternoon and once the table was wet I did dozens of tabs
Cool beans. 👍
Our previous cat was a leopard cat and on both bridgedeck sides we had 2 x 50mm pvc conduits and at the back of the saloon the same beneath the floor and then one right down the middle under the floor in the saloon. This boat was a pleasure to pull new wires when you upgrade and I did a lot. On our Catana which we have now there are no conduits running just stainless cages under the floor. This makes running things so long and difficult. I curse every time I need to do an upgrade. It’s nasty. My advice rather have to many than suffer down the road as far as access to your boat is concerned and conduits !
We agree! We will have plenty of conduits running down the boat length (so far, about eight). There are two crossing the cockpit and there be more, likely about three, crossing at the forward part of the salon. So, plenty of conduits for water, power, diesel, and electrical.
I know you have a electrical contractor buddy like i am , but im just reminding you to keep your low voltage dc conduits and junction boxes separate from high voltage ac conduits and junction boxes. Thanks for the great show.
That's why we mentioned that the conduit we were installing was A/C only.
Then you should use the correct term it's extra low voltage DC and low voltage AC
@@shaynegadsden 230vac in that conduit. DC will run in a separate conduit.
@@SailingSVLynx sorry was meant for OP low voltage DC is above 120VDC and high voltage ac is above 1000VAC but your system was 48VDC which is extra low voltave and being US based 120/240VAC which is low voltage,
Oh and probably a 12VDC system too
@@shaynegadsden Close... but we're not US based we are European 230vac.
Love the videos, I am wondering if you have thought about having your Victron equipment below the water line. 45 years of boating with a fair amount of coastal And Bahamas cruising and I don’t think I’ve ever had a boat that didn’t get water in the bilge at some point. Always from unexpected wave or rain or something other than a hull leak.
The Victron equipment will be above the waterline and bilge, but below the bed.
Do you intend to apply Copper Coat to your dagger boards, rudders, and props?
We will put Coppercoat on our rudders, as they will be down at anchor. However the daggerboards are only deployed while moving, so marine growth won't be an issue. Though we might put some down at the lower portion. As for the props, we will be applying a different antifoul, likely Propspeed, which is made for that purpose.
Some advice from numerous boat weighing videos. Ensure well before hand and in person the crane CAN actually weigh the boat and the scale and reader are CALIBRATED appropriately. I’ve not seen a single video where people didn’t run into those issues.
We'll ask.
Why are you not coring out the holes for the conduit .
We did speak them. I just didn't show that.
Are you gong to flow coat the nooks and crannies before final closure? This cat gonna be huge!
We don't plan on it. If the compartment is entirely sealed and never to be opened, then the glass and epoxy should be enough. However, any compartment that will be opened or is open, will be completely faired and then painted. Also, any compartment below the waterline will be bilge painted.
coping and tabbing seems just about as relaxinging as the planking
Relaxing.. for who? ;)
How are you doing on hours now that you’re at the 18 month mark?
I'm going to go over that at the end of November, that was a major milestone date for me.
I'm surprised you expect your empty composite boat to be that heavy 28000 pounds that's around 13 tons.
A very similar slighly bigger Dudley Dix DH550 cat made from plywood is listed 12500 kg displacement. A composite boat should be lighter than that.
It's what the design states, it's not something we control. But, I don't want too light of a cat anyway. We're not a racer, we are a cruising boat. We wanted a mid weight cat, I did a video on this already. A Leopard 50 is 44,000 lbs. A Mumby 48 about 17,000 (if I recall correctly).
@@SailingSVLynx It's interesting how reasonably similar aluminum Mumby 48 is about 4 tons lighter than your composite boat. Does it mean your boat is a bit overengineered and Mumby is underengineered? Just curious.
@@armandsbernaus5260 Two things, the Mumby is aluminum, so the weight isn't really comparable. It's just like comparing to a carbon fiber boat, the materials are lighter. However, if you look at an HH50, which is considered a performance boat of similar length, that 50' boat is built with some carbon fiber and composite foam, it weighs 25,353.00 pounds, which is not far from our 26,500 lbs.
Thanks. I thought you were going to discuss your electric tender solution this week. Are you really going to leave me in suspenders until next week? 😮
Sorry, yes. :( But, I'll talk about it next week, I promise!
@SailingSVLynx You're in deep water if you forget it next week 🤣
@@davidantill6949 I wouldn't want that... well, unless I'm in my boat crossing an ocean. :)
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏👏
If Brian talks on camera, do you have to pay him more? Or is he mute and being forced to work for peanuts and living in fear of being deported?
😂
Yes, I have to double his salary! Let's see, as Jane said, "let me do the math: zero and zero, carry the zero..."
cranes rarely give accurate weights, you'll get an in the "Ball Park" reading only.
It's the best we can do, there isn't really another way for us to weigh it.
@@SailingSVLynx Matt from Duracell has a solution, and can I add given how you have deviated from original weight configuration it would be advisable to get accurate weights from 4 points like Matt demonstrated on his channel, Peace of mind re your water line /weight distribution would be easily worth the cost to hire the devices. Thanks for the feedback, oh the build is looking good really starting to shape up.
@@Nasalies1969 I watched Matt's video on how he weighed the boat. Unfortunately, unlike Matt, we don't have access to those weight sensors. But, we're not worried about weight distribution issues. Schionning has a program that calculates every item and liquid on the boat, and kicks out a COE so we know if we will be in balance, at least close enough. Then, we can fine tune the weight balance once we are in the water and can see where we float along the waterline. It would be nice to know the weight of the boat, but it isn't critical. It's amazing how little change there is with say, an extra 2,000 pounds on board if we exceed the Load Carrying Capacity by that much. The boat would float about 1/4" to 1/2" deeper (6 to 13 mm). We don't want that, but it would only affect sailing performance, not safety, and then only very slightly. Weighing the boat is more for fun than a necessary piece of knowledge in a cruising catamaran, we're not racing. But, even if S/V Lynx is a bit heavier than planned, it's not like we can go in and remove epoxy later, she will weigh what she weighs.
28,888 lbs Dry weight
Wait for it! We haven't started the poll yet ;)
@@SailingSVLynx LOL
I guess 28717 lbs
Hold on... we haven't started they poll yet! ;)
00
??