Hi Tito, Your initial installation was fine with one exception, water will alway get in so you need to plan for it to get out as well. I would suggest leaving the corners open for this purpose. Dave
I am prepping to do a 400w install in a similar way, i was planning to leave several gaps around , maybe a couple on each side an inch long, should allow the water a way to escape
By keeping the solar panels on top of the hot van top will reduce the efficiency of the panels. They need air circulation underneath them which would reduce the heat a little bit. Can you find out what's the efficiency difference?
HI Brian, I did my roof right after you did yours. I used the Eternabond tape... I didn't overlap mine though. I went up and took a look this morning and there is no lifting of the panels. That is through the Florida sun and two hurricanes. I just butted the tape up against the other edges.
Thanks for the update, Brian. Interesting to see, especially since you have both Eternabond and screws/Dicor to compare. We screwed our panels to the roof over 12 years ago, and have never had a leak. Just our regular annual Dicor inspections have kept things dry. We do love Eternabond, and love the idea of avoiding additional holes in the roof... in theory. But our big issue is the fact that once Eternabond is in place, it's virtually impossible to remove. Since you don't need waterproofing (with no screw holes under the panels), have you looked at VHB tape? We understand that it's so strong that people are using four little pieces of it on the brackets at the corners of traditional solar panels with great results. We've used VHB for one roof project and so far, it's on there like concrete. But we understand that unlike Eternabond, it can be removed (haven't tried that yet). Maybe better for a project like this where strong adhesion, but no waterproofing is called for? Plus the supposed benefit of removability (and a lot less required... very small pieces go a long way).
Put front to back tape on first The front east/west tape Then tape on trailing end needs to be under side pieces or skip piece on southern edge altogether
I liked your video on the longevity of using eternabond tape to attach the solar panels to the roof. It is something I'm considering myself. The debate in my house is how well the panels would work after being attached directly to the roof, and not having any ventilation underneath the panels. I've heard other UA-camrs mention that there is a loss in energy producing efficiency in the panels when attached directly to the roof. Have you seen the panles drop in efficiency on hot days? Do you think elevating the panels on brackets to create air flow underneath them would be worth it? Or have the panels of today moved past this issue; or is this an issue at all in your opinion? Thank you in advance for your opinion and love the videos - keep em' coming.
Thank you for the update too. Both this water intrusion issue as the known heat dissipation problem can be addressed with the use of VHB tape. In a couple of weeks, I'll be installing 400W of flexible panels on the roof of my Ford Transit with VHB tape. With the corrugation of the roof and the spaces between the pieces of tape, I hope that the airflow will be enough to avoid these issues. Should be a quick install without holes. I wonder how long the two earlier panels have been installed and how they have performed with regard to amps and if there is any noticeable degradation? Great videos! Van Williams
I installed our flexible panels the same way and noticed the same exact issue. Doesn't seems to be hurting anything but less than ideal. I'm just going to think of it as liquid cooling ;). Over 5000 miles with them up there. I'm monitoring them and will let you know if I see any problem in the future. BTW, love your videos! Keep up the good work!
I tried the 2" eturnabond tape . Only lasted 2 years I do live in the north country. With the cold weather in winter and fairly hot weather in summer. Scewing panels to roof is the only way to go. Thats of coures my opion. Really like your videos .
Good thing you used Eternabond tape. I used some white tape from Amazon to hold my cable runs from the panels and one year later the glue had given out. The glass panels themselves are held down with the double sided Eternabond and Dicor and doing well
I used the hard panel. Bolted the Z brackets to house door hinges. Glued the hinges down with 3M 5200 over a year ago. Modified the hinge so I can pull the pins to tilt panel(if needed). Jim
I haver been using the 1" double sided eternabond tape on the outer edges of my flex panel installs with zero issues. I have done quite a few rv's now and not one issue. The tape seals all sides and no lifting. Perfect.
I did my Renogy fexible panels with strips of vhb tape and eterabond on some of the edges leaving arreas where air and water can get in and out. I guess we will see how well it works. Will be going out to Utah, Arizona and Colorado this summer so far it is working well.
Outstanding vid!! We bought a used 25 ft RV travel trailer in 2016 and have several long trips under our belts. We are planning on adding several 100W PVs to the roof of the trailer. Both my wife and I are ham radio operators and do emergency communications (EmComm) work for local county EMA, so we are deployable in the event of a small or large scale man-made or natural disaster. Our RV trailer is our mobile radio/communications asset and we need a dependable source of 12VDC power. The solar panels would greatly enhance our ability to provide EmComm support. Additionally, the window mounted PVs can provide shade! Great thinking outside the box.
If you try this method again, you might consider a fine bead of silicone calking around the tape edges. This might help prevent the water from penetrating in the corners. I haven't tried this myself, but it was something that came to mind while watching your video. Good luck.
Brian, to deal the edges of my ridged solar panels so they didn't leak, I put a thin line of clear silicon along the edges of the ridged panel glass. In Olympia WA, lots of rain and no issues with leaking. Have you considered using silicone or another liquid sealant in those corners? Wouldn't need much. Be a lot cheaper than another layer of tape. Thanks for the videos. You're very easy to understand.
VERY GOOD INFORMATION, AFTER SEEING THIS I WILL GET THE FLAT PANELS INSTEAD, NO HOLES TO WORRY ABOUT THEN, LESS INSTALL TIME, NO WIND TO AFFECT SOMETHING COMING LOOSE OR FLYING OFF...
I'm new to the channel, and had just watched your original install of these panels yesterday. It's great that this was posted so i can see how well that held up. Overall for a year, it looks like the tape held up great! I'm looking at buying an R-Pod 180, and I think these panels, and tape would be the way I want to go. Thanks for the video!
I have the same solar panel. I have had it on top of my vehicle for well over a year now. I used 4x6 inch industrial velcro. One in each corner of the panel. Still going strong however I do check periodically for any lifting or pulling up. So far so good.
Wade Neilson name of it is Velcro brand. It is the extreme outdoor all weather/rough surfaces. Comes in a black and white box. Can find all different sizes on Amazon. Just search for industrial strength velcro it is made by Velcro. Be sure to clean the surface thoroughly. After sticking the velcro i believe it had to set for a few hours to let the adhesive do its thing.
I'd love to use Velcro instead of Eternabond, but it seems risky. Even though the flexible panels are extremely light, if one flys off on the highway, it could kill somebody simply by scaring the driver behind you and causing an accident.
Have you been through any high winds and/or rain and/or snow with this velcro method? Also I'm curious why you didn't velcro the entire perimeter of the panel? Do you think that water might collect under the panel more easily that way? Thanks.
Think about leaving the back edge unsealed. You will always get condensation under the panel. At a minimum have a weep hole. If you leave the whole back edge open the air will pull the moisture out as it sits or even better as you drive. A Glaziers option.. Nice job..
Forgive me for not reading all of the previous comments and apologies for repeating any prior advice but all I’ve experienced so far with flexible panels is to make sure that the underside of the panel is vented if there are air voids beneath - if it lifts due to pressure build up then the panel will distort and cells will break
Hi Tito; I've done the same on a 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser, and actually went with the eternabond tape after seeing your video which gave me the idea. It's been several months now, and it's performed very well, even though my panel is at a bit of a curve, since the roof of the cruiser is curved somewhat. It's performed very well; I have it hooked up to a deep cycle battery with a charge controller, and use the system to power some electronics in my car for long periods of time without having to worry about draining my car's starter battery. Having been nearly a year since doing this, I haven't had any issues yet. I've gone down freeways and have experienced all weather except snow in it, and it's stayed on very sturdy. One way I varied from your approach is that I did include a few pieces of double sided tape along the center of the panel (Center horizontally), each placed at 25% intervals, vertically, to hold the center of the panel just in case the passing wind pulled it upward. So far it's been looking fine, though I have seen the same expansion of the adhesive at the edges of the material. I believe this is just due to the heat of the sun expanding the material a bit. I spent most of my time with this out in phoenix, where it's 115+ outside, and the metal on my vehicle was just burning up, so i figured that's what caused my tape to have a bit of the adhesive expanding out the sides. Since my vehicle has such a slope on the roof, I haven't had standing water, and thus haven't run into the issue(s) you've faced with water getting underneath the tape. Mine's pulled itself up a little, vertically, because the panel resists the slope of my vehicle, but it's been more or less the same as it was day one. It's been interesting, I've gotten tons of comments on it since I've added this panel to a normal car / suv.
Use the back of a spoon to smooth out the air bubbles and add pressure to the adhesive in the corners of the eterna bond when you install. As an art archivist I’ve found that tapes need all the air bubbles smoothed out for maximum strength and durability.
I know this video is a few years old but I’m installing mine today with VHB tape in the middle of the panels and clear gorilla tape on the outside edges to seal it. Also corrugated plastic underneath to level off the uneven places of my vans roof. I plan to leave some gaps in the seal tape to let air get in to cool underneath the panels and also to let the water drain out. A name with the clear gorilla tape because it’s just as strong as the regular stuff, not as hot, and it won’t be a big deal if it overlaps into the actual working solar area, Also it will allow me to see if anything is getting trapped underneath the panels like water.
So postscript, install the panels today and I will tell you that this VHB tape is basically permanent. I made one little mistake and barely barely got it pried off. So for now I’m gonna say this tape is the perfect bonding for flexible solar panels on my van.
You don't need to re-do the tape. The panels are weather proof, they are ok. You do not need to tape the panel down on ALL sides. The tape is to keep the panels on the roof, not weather proofing them. I would simple make a good-size drain hole at the lowest corner, and call it a day.
At high speed driving or strong winds the panels will want to lift off, so sticking panels down as well as tape sounds a good idea. 3m make really strong automotive double sided tapes (like the ones that stick rear view mirrors to glass) that stuff has an incredible grip!!
I agree that it would add more grip. However, that stuff is really strong. Should you every need to move or remove the panel though, it would be difficult to do so without destroying the panel in the process. That's the only downside I see. Thanks for the comment.
To to remove you use a strong twine with a sawing action and it works just like a cheese cutter wire. That's a trick I learnt from the windscreen fitters!! no damage to paintwork or panel. :-)
One thing I've learned today is that Dicor is some pretty good stuff! Another thing I've learned in the past is that sometimes it's best to ALLOW for water to get in, by giving it a safe way out. Just a small untaped portion at the lowest point may be all you need to have the Eternabond panels being eternal. However, then vibration and dust can be an issue as well.
Very cool! Maybe just a dab of sealant in the corners would solve this issue. When you overlap the tape, there will always be a gap no matter what you do below it with the double sided tape. Especially over time with movement of the vehicle and heat/cold cycles.
I would run a thin bead of Dicor all the way around the inner edge of that tape and the panel, much like you did on the panels with the screws. I would think that would prevent any further water migration inside the tape. Just a thought. . . . . .
Hi Brian, Great video showing long term results. I am planning on using eternabond on my flexible panels. I was thinking of leaving an opening in the tape on the low points. Meaning don't completely tape around the entire panel. My theory is to allow water to drain and allow air underneath panel. Just a theory any opinion? Happy travels, Lou
I thought it was a great idea how you did the follow up video a year later. Especially since many ideas put on youtube are UNTESTED. By having this after some time this shows PROVING the ideas and tweaking them with changes as needed.
Cool experiment. Just looking at your examples, the dicor looked great, the screws not so much. The tape looked great, except for the water issue. So, how ‘bout using the dicor and replacing the screw attachment method with the tape? That seems like a great combo and avoids punching holes in a perfectly sealed roof.
That's very similar to what I'm leaning towards for the next go around. Some VHB tape underneath to hold it down in a few areas, then Dicor around the edges. No screws.
i find it simple to drill a hole.. it will not hurt the roof at all as you seal it up.. i have a new rv and i was worried but i did it and im happy i did.. the glass panels seem to work better and hold up better.. less money too.. i like the 160 watt panels just feed back thanks for the video great job.. we need to meet up one day
Me too ,I just drilled 4 holes in my old 1966 camper I’m rebuilding . I bought this Aluminum Roof seal with fibers used this first first as I did have a leak before panel install. fixed leak then mounted panels and brackets and screws right into the roof then sealed the screws. I have no leaks and I’m using a 175 Watt Mono Panel collects electricity even in shade . Loving my off grid system can’t wait to join more panels.
The Deprey's yes my people don't think that solar is that profitable but that's comparing it on average use because when the electricity is free you can basically Run 100 watt light bulbs and leave them on all day and not give a shit or whatever antique technology that is power draining so theoretically you are saving 10 grand every two and a half years if you power your house with 100 watt light bulb in the daytime and eventually you'll be able to have 10 Tesla batteries under Freon Refrigeration so they last a lot longer you can just leave everything on lights on all night and put giant spotlights on your house just to brag to your neighbors about how much for electricity you have and they have to pay a fortune just to use shity ass 40 watt light bulbs.
Nice video. Hadn't heard of your tape, thanks. Wish I hadn't drilled my old VW fiberglass roof. I found a nice two sided product on "A", Foxnovo Car Auto Double-sided Tape Heat Resistant Clear Acrylic Adhesive Foam Tape
Hi, I like your vids, I left small openings allowing moisture to dry, I did use double sided tape and mask the outside. I little air flow is not bad for me. I have grooves on my van so it seems ok 9 months in.
Another force which is acting on your panels is lower pressure air that moves over your RV as you drive. This acts like a suction lifting the panels up which creates flex. This force is likely what is lifting the tape over time. If you have ever sat in a soft top vehicle on the highway, you know what I mean. You may still prevent water/moisture infiltration without any adhesive under the flex panel by placing a bead of silicone around the edge of the panel before applying the Eternabond tape.
Hi Tito, how about using some kind of slotted strut full length under the panel edges. This would let water escape around the edges and air circulation.
I think i would just not go so far on the corners, since waterproofing isn't a concern, just leave the corners open a few mm so the water can drain out.
Thank you for this review! People are often excited about their new purchases / installations ... but I realize that it is often after a few months / years that the best reviews come out ;-) btw, for that installation you did, I would take into consideration the condesation (between day and night, cold and hot)
The advantage to your taping the panels is that they can be repaired and removed with little effort, however you just found the water issue. Mine have been glued to the roof since day one and are not going anywhere BUT no water buildup. I suppose if they ever go bad I would have to peel them off in pieces.
+PAT DOWNEY My older Unisolar panels are glued down that way with absolutely no issues. I would probably just mount something over the top instead of trying a removal.
You mention that you had “a lot of hot weather “ on occasions. Are your panels on a steel or fibreglass roof ?? Did your panels suffer any over heating in the hot weather ? I have four 50watt panels to fit on a fibreglass roof and am wondering if they would suffer any overheating? Here in the UK we don’t have many heatwaves but I’m worried they may overheat being on fibreglass, which won’t dissipate heat as a steel roof would. I certainly would like to install them as you have, with either tape or silicone bonding but the heat issue is bothering. I have seen all manner of mounting with spaced polycarbonate panels or mounting brackets to create an air space, which would make a lot more complicated job. Your further comments would help and be appreciated. Kindest regards, Robert.
Found this interesting video early 2021 and would like to ask how the efficiency varies in hot conditions. Solid panels are recommended to be installed with a gap underneath to get a bit of airflow that cools the panel down...what are your experiences, gluing it directly to the roof?
Really enjoyed this video. I have two Efleland 140W modules, but they seem to have spot heat problems from perhaps bad tabbing. Working on a refund on these but Efleland is unreachable. I noted that your videos must be seeded with “Elfeland” so I thought you might be using them.
One of my concerns with Eternabond - at least on my van's metal roof - is how do you get it OFF. For example in this case, where you've got leak issues, or maybe you just want to put on a different solar panel, how do you get the Eternbond to unbond, without ripping off the paint or some of your plastic/rubber roof? Will WD-40 do it? Also, do you not have heat issues with your panels flat against the roof? One vanner (Will Prouse) in his video, laid his flexible panels over wooden doles on the roof to give the panels some space underneath.
+Jack Kunkel I haven't had heat issues that I could tell. These type of flex panel actually release heat from the top unlike traditional panels covered with glass. I will try and remove some Eternabond in another video.
I have a metal roof also. I removed Eternabond with one of those multi-tools the ones that vibrate side to side. I used the knife attachment. Not too bad to do
yeah i think you'd be fine with a metal roof, my parents have a tin skinned roof on their 5er and i had to remove some adhesive, used a scraper blade on an oscillating head tool and it made short work of the adhesives, on a rubber roof, i think you'd have to just leave it on there and maybe cut right near the panel to remove the panel, but leave the leftover tape, its not ideal, but i think it'd do more harm than good trying to remove it.
I had one of these panels immolate one cell last summer. It had an air gap underneath it but it was very hot out and in full sun. Got it exchanged via amazon but happy it wasn't lying flat on the rv roof
Excellent follow up. Bought my first (two) 50w Uxcell (Mohoo) mono solar panels. Since I don't have an RV or boat...used my laundry drying rack as a "solar stand". Total weight comes in at about 6-7 lbs, folds up smartly, and I attached the two solar panels to the laundry drying rack using those "Gear Ties" found at Lowe's, Home Depot. Best part...the wings on the laundry drying rack adjust. I also drilled a couple of "extra" holes in the tubing for more angle-opportunity. The rack is stainless steel. Just an idea I came up with that might help your viewers, campers, preppers, tailgaters, out on the road. Got videos on my channel. Take care...again, great follow up to these flexible panels!
I think there will always be condensation taking place. My experience with condensation is to let the air flow through. Sealing it tight may work against you especially in the PNW.
RVwithTito I have a fifth wheel with a solar I had installed when new 9 years ago. The panel sits up on some legs. Air can get underneath. No major issues so far and I am PNW not far from you as well. My unit sits in forest all winter and that is tough on them.
Thank you for this video. I read through the description and the comments and I wanted to ask, Is your roof a rubber roof? I just bought flexible panels and am wondering if the eternabond tape is ok for a rubber roof.
Sealing those corners is a good idea. You don't want standing water anywhere. How about "injecting" some caulking into your "drain holes." Can you say that worst case the Eternabond is good for a year or two?
Dumb novice question; Solar panels peak operating temp is in the 70° F range, this is why they recommend solar panels have a 1" to 2" gap under them for heat venting issues. Heat decreases the solar panels output. With flexible flush mount solar panels such as those shown, I’m guessing the heat dissipates into your vehicle/trailer, and the panels output may suffer from the less than optimal temperatures. So... are flush mount panels recommended to have more than the needed rating installed? Are normal solar panels better? I’m confused.
3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 best out there . We have a 5th wheel that I have design side wall mount plates over the rain gutters. Each of the side plates where bolted in to the aluminum studs of the campe,had a used motor home and the Previous owners hold mounted though roof and it leaked . With the 2880 watts of solar panels I need them held strong.
I have had sailboats for years and can tell you I will never use 3M 5200. It is a permanent adhesive and is practically impossible to get off. 3M makes easier sealants to work with such as 4500 and 5000. I think you are much better off going with dicor or eternabond.
Thanks for sharing that video! You should glue some bolts to your RV and then you should add the tape and this is not going to happen. I saw on the video you glued your solar panel first. I think now you need to add more tape or maybe use a different one. Did you have a loss power in that year? How is your solar panel performance doing ?
I also had second thoughts about a hole in the roof but I also knew the tape will fail due to rain. Heat , moss, wind birds picking at it , sooooooo screwed them , some tape putty around the holes and dicor self leveling up, I'm retired so less time on a ladder and roof is ok with me.
The spot where water is being pulled in is very tiny (where the tape meets) but the movement of the panel during wind or travel would create a suction action pulling water in. A tiny drop of silicon on each corner would probably have eliminated the issue completely.
I am considering flexible panels and some call for using adhesive caulk AND intentionally leaving a 1" gap of no caulk on wayward & low edge to allow water to naturally drain if some water condenses underneath. Is this crazy or smart?
Maybe this has already been suggested, why not leave some gaps in the Eternabond to serve as weep holes? Not trapping the water would let it drain naturally.
Nice job Tito, you have inspired me to think out of the box. My "installer" was going to put these on a rack and he says they will make wind noise. Not a problem using this method. I really like the relcrow idea. Or why not just run a bead of silicon on the back and glue it to the top?
I have a 235W module on my RV roof. It is attached to the aluminum roof with three "U" aluminum channels, fastened into roof trusses with #12 sheet metal screws. Before I fastened it with the screws, I installed a piece of Eternabond tape on the roof, under the locations for the aluminum mounts. The fasteners were driven through the brackets, through the Eternabond tape, through the roof, and into the roof trusses. As I drove the screws through everything, the adhesive layer of the tape wound around the screws and over the heads. It virtually sealed the holes as I installed the screws. Anyone that is apprehensive about holes in an RV roof should try this method. It is far superior to applying lap sealant like Dicor, because the tape lasts a very long time and the sealants tend to crack and deteriorate over time.
Are you sure that it's rainwater as opposed to condensation from heating and cooling /air moisture ? I thought that solar panels worked more efficiently if you kept them cool ie allowed air to circulate under them but not sure if it applies to flexible panels. ..
Make the eternabond tapes meet at 45 degrees. Apply some sealant over the seam, and cover the corner with a another piece of eternabond at 90 degrees to that seam.
Aren't you worried by heating up those panels? If they''re sealed like this, they will get very hot probably and underperform because of that, won't they? Wouldn't it be better to lift them a little to let the air (and water) circulate freely under the panels?
Alternatives to mounting flexi solar panels:: use 6mm or 10mm Tile backing board ( used for underfloor heating / tiling) , lay panel on tilt sheet cut to size of panel,cut out enough vent holes for ventilation, drill m4 holes, glue panel to tile board, mount on wood frame ( in my case to Shed) with m4 hex nuts/ bolts and largest m4 washers you can find. Sandwich 4 washers onto m4 frame , 3 on bottom 1 on top ( this leaves another gap for heat dissapation away from wood) . Cost of board 6mm £11 or $14 or 10mm £14 or $17.81.
Hi There, we live in Ibiza a long way from you Guys! We are currently rebuilding a 49 year old 508 Mercedes, and the moment has come to fit the 2, 140watt flex panels. One issue I don’t see mentioned is the shortened life of these as opposed to non flex, apparently due to over heating, as the roof is metal and we life in a hot area. We have sprayed the inside of the van with 1/8” cork to prevent condensation and resultant rust problems and we are thinking of spraying the roof under the panel location to reduce the heat build up. It is water roof and very strong, any thoughts on this. We will then take the Eterna bond route for fixing. Love your videos and feedback, thanks.
Any kind of insulation on a metal roof would definitely help. You would be the first to suggest sprayed on cork which is pretty neat actually. I'm thinking of trying this platic stuff they make signs out of (amzn.to/2tjDnhZ). I think it would hold up on hot metal, but I'm not 100% certain.
If the inside corners where the tape overlaps is the only place water is getting in, a dab of dicor or similar sealant over each lap joint should keep the water out. Might not work now that water has penetrated but for future installs....
Hi Brian. My husband and I are brand new to this RV thing and are learning a lot from your videos. Thanks for making them! Just curious, now that you've had a chance to see how both screw down and Eternabond installs went and how they've held up, do you have a preference?
Ooh. You would make me answer that. There are certainly great benefits to the eternabond solution, but for long term mounting, I would have to go with the screw down / Dicor method. I do have an idea for another option using a thin insulating layer that I may try at some point. Stay tuned.
Good to know! VHB tape actually looks like the easiest install, but alas, we have a rubber roof. Thanks again for your vids. They'll be a big help when we get around to adding solar.
Would it maybe be worth it to have a very small tube like half a capped metal yerba mate straw embedded on that low end? You could then suck/pump out that water that way, if it's a mold consideration. Just thinking out loud.
Is it safe to install the panels onto like a piece of plywood instead? Some of us want to be able to move the solar panels around. But I'm not sure if wood is safe since there were a few incidents of people having fires from solar panels. (Although maybe this was actually from fresnel lenses?) What would someone install them onto if they wanted to be able to move them around, but didn't have welding or metalworking skills? The flexible solar panels do get damaged easy if not installed on something to keep them from moving.
hi, nice work with the panel! MAybe one upgrade: you can close down the tape connections where the water sweaps under the panel with transparent silikon - the type which the roof makers use, as that one can whitstand UV and heat. This way the water cannot get under the tape.
I'm coming in more than a year after this was originally posted. I'm brand new to "rv" life and recently purchased a shuttle bus which I plan to VERY SIMPLY remodel into an RV/Camper. My 2 160 watt 12 v Renogy flexible panels are sitting in my living room as I type this and I'm googling several hours each day all things solar. Still need to buy a charge controller, lithium battery(ies) and an inverter/charger, as well as all the various cords/connectors and such. So far, I don't feel like I know what to get and any suggestions are much appreciated. I understand my charge controller will need to be a 30amp. So, my big question here is.....have you learned anything more regarding the non-hole installation of your flexible solar panels? I am considering the VHB tape mentioned below, though I have no idea what it is. Any feedback from anyone on this feed is much appreciated. Thank you :)
Good follow up Tito. I remember your video, and seeing how yours worked out, I decided to do the same one mine when I get them. Actually, I am getting close. Lately though, I've seen some neato installs with rigid flat panels, that have the advantage of creating an airspace shadowing the roof, keeping the RV cooler. So now I'm torn. Which way, if you had to do it again, would you go and thank you for your opinion. Keep in mind, I haven't found any good way to conveniently tilt these things towards the Sun. I am aware that a flat installation is not optimal.
Why not leave a gap between the leading and trailing edges tape and the sides? Do you think you need to completely cover every inch of the panel's border?
I usually like to keep my roof pretty clean and it would really bug me if I couldn't clean all the grime that would build up under there. Other than that reason, you're probably right and it would be fine.
I think you should devote some time and thought to allowing the water a way to get out. After working as an electrician, and weatherproofing enclosures, I have discovered that THERE IS ALWAYS A WAY FOR WATER TO GET IN. Maybe you can add a straw like Device at the low point of the roof. This would be similar to weatherproof electrical boxes having holes in the bottom where gravity would drain the water out. Pressurizing the area underneath the Solar panel, is also a way to keep water out. The phone company has been using this technique for decades to keep splice boxes dry. Filling an electrical box with a potting compound, eliminates all the airspace, and thereby prevents water from entering. I'm sure there are many other examples of how to prevent water infiltration.
Is it true that those types of panels won't work effectively due to overheating?, being that the whole backside is in contact with the roof as opposed to a mounted panel having airflow all around it.
I am using 1" 3M double side tape on front end and 1/2" on sides, 3 -5 patches in the center to prevent flapping, no tape on edges. One of my panel died after 4 years and it was very difficult to remove 1" tape, it holds very good. PET flexible panels on a video do not like snow and ice, protect them for winter. Protect if you do not use it, they do not like sun also). No kidding, deteriorate very fast. ETFE lamination advertised as better for panels but I don have chance to try yet
I have a great respect for a person to come back and tell about the mistakes on a build. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
While updates may not be as glamorous as a new product, I sure appreciate these videos.
+Bob Frazier Good to know. I'll try and more like this.
Hi Tito, Your initial installation was fine with one exception, water will alway get in so you need to plan for it to get out as well. I would suggest leaving the corners open for this purpose. Dave
I am prepping to do a 400w install in a similar way, i was planning to leave several gaps around , maybe a couple on each side an inch long, should allow the water a way to escape
By keeping the solar panels on top of the hot van top will reduce the efficiency of the panels. They need air circulation underneath them which would reduce the heat a little bit. Can you find out what's the efficiency difference?
HI Brian, I did my roof right after you did yours. I used the Eternabond tape... I didn't overlap mine though. I went up and took a look this morning and there is no lifting of the panels. That is through the Florida sun and two hurricanes.
I just butted the tape up against the other edges.
Thanks for the update, Brian. Interesting to see, especially since you have both Eternabond and screws/Dicor to compare. We screwed our panels to the roof over 12 years ago, and have never had a leak. Just our regular annual Dicor inspections have kept things dry. We do love Eternabond, and love the idea of avoiding additional holes in the roof... in theory. But our big issue is the fact that once Eternabond is in place, it's virtually impossible to remove. Since you don't need waterproofing (with no screw holes under the panels), have you looked at VHB tape? We understand that it's so strong that people are using four little pieces of it on the brackets at the corners of traditional solar panels with great results. We've used VHB for one roof project and so far, it's on there like concrete. But we understand that unlike Eternabond, it can be removed (haven't tried that yet). Maybe better for a project like this where strong adhesion, but no waterproofing is called for? Plus the supposed benefit of removability (and a lot less required... very small pieces go a long way).
+RVgeeks Just ordered a roll of VHB to experiment with. Thanks for the tip.
Great to hear, Harvey! VHB is definitely a good thing to keep around the RV.
Put front to back tape on first
The front east/west tape
Then tape on trailing end needs to be under side pieces or skip piece on southern edge altogether
Hmm... will a strong blow-dryer or heat-gun not help budge either of these adhesives, when removal is necessary(?)
I liked your video on the longevity of using eternabond tape to attach the solar panels to the roof. It is something I'm considering myself. The debate in my house is how well the panels would work after being attached directly to the roof, and not having any ventilation underneath the panels. I've heard other UA-camrs mention that there is a loss in energy producing efficiency in the panels when attached directly to the roof. Have you seen the panles drop in efficiency on hot days? Do you think elevating the panels on brackets to create air flow underneath them would be worth it? Or have the panels of today moved past this issue; or is this an issue at all in your opinion? Thank you in advance for your opinion and love the videos - keep em' coming.
Thank you for the update too. Both this water intrusion issue as the known heat dissipation problem can be addressed with the use of VHB tape.
In a couple of weeks, I'll be installing 400W of flexible panels on the roof of my Ford Transit with VHB tape. With the corrugation of the roof and the spaces between the pieces of tape, I hope that the airflow will be enough to avoid these issues. Should be a quick install without holes.
I wonder how long the two earlier panels have been installed and how they have performed with regard to amps and if there is any noticeable degradation?
Great videos!
Van Williams
I installed our flexible panels the same way and noticed the same exact issue. Doesn't seems to be hurting anything but less than ideal. I'm just going to think of it as liquid cooling ;). Over 5000 miles with them up there. I'm monitoring them and will let you know if I see any problem in the future. BTW, love your videos! Keep up the good work!
+Giant Life Tiny RV Ah. Liquid cooling, and heating. I like it. Thanks for the feedback.
I tried the 2" eturnabond tape . Only lasted 2 years I do live in the north country. With the cold weather in winter and fairly hot weather in summer. Scewing panels to roof is the only way to go. Thats of coures my opion. Really like your videos .
Good thing you used Eternabond tape.
I used some white tape from Amazon to hold my cable runs from the panels and one year later the glue had given out.
The glass panels themselves are held down with the double sided Eternabond and Dicor and doing well
I used the hard panel. Bolted the Z brackets to house door hinges. Glued the hinges down with 3M 5200 over a year ago. Modified the hinge so I can pull the pins to tilt panel(if needed).
Jim
I haver been using the 1" double sided eternabond tape on the outer edges of my flex panel installs with zero issues. I have done quite a few rv's now and not one issue. The tape seals all sides and no lifting. Perfect.
I did my Renogy fexible panels with strips of vhb tape and eterabond on some of the edges leaving arreas where air and water can get in and out. I guess we will see how well it works. Will be going out to Utah, Arizona and Colorado this summer so far it is working well.
Outstanding vid!! We bought a used 25 ft RV travel trailer in 2016 and have several long trips under our belts. We are planning on adding several 100W PVs to the roof of the trailer. Both my wife and I are ham radio operators and do emergency communications (EmComm) work for local county EMA, so we are deployable in the event of a small or large scale man-made or natural disaster. Our RV trailer is our mobile radio/communications asset and we need a dependable source of 12VDC power. The solar panels would greatly enhance our ability to provide EmComm support. Additionally, the window mounted PVs can provide shade! Great thinking outside the box.
If you try this method again, you might consider a fine bead of silicone calking around the tape edges. This might help prevent the water from penetrating in the corners. I haven't tried this myself, but it was something that came to mind while watching your video. Good luck.
Brian, to deal the edges of my ridged solar panels so they didn't leak, I put a thin line of clear silicon along the edges of the ridged panel glass. In Olympia WA, lots of rain and no issues with leaking. Have you considered using silicone or another liquid sealant in those corners? Wouldn't need much. Be a lot cheaper than another layer of tape. Thanks for the videos. You're very easy to understand.
Hi Jack. I'm using a different mounting technique now so this issue is solved.
VERY GOOD INFORMATION, AFTER SEEING THIS I WILL GET THE FLAT PANELS INSTEAD, NO HOLES TO WORRY ABOUT THEN, LESS INSTALL TIME, NO WIND TO AFFECT SOMETHING COMING LOOSE OR FLYING OFF...
I'm new to the channel, and had just watched your original install of these panels yesterday. It's great that this was posted so i can see how well that held up. Overall for a year, it looks like the tape held up great! I'm looking at buying an R-Pod 180, and I think these panels, and tape would be the way I want to go. Thanks for the video!
+Outdoor Cory You're welcome.
I have the same solar panel. I have had it on top of my vehicle for well over a year now. I used 4x6 inch industrial velcro. One in each corner of the panel. Still going strong however I do check periodically for any lifting or pulling up. So far so good.
Good to hear john.
john inwi any pics? Name of velcro ?
Wade Neilson name of it is Velcro brand. It is the extreme outdoor all weather/rough surfaces. Comes in a black and white box. Can find all different sizes on Amazon. Just search for industrial strength velcro it is made by Velcro. Be sure to clean the surface thoroughly. After sticking the velcro i believe it had to set for a few hours to let the adhesive do its thing.
I'd love to use Velcro instead of Eternabond, but it seems risky. Even though the flexible panels are extremely light, if one flys off on the highway, it could kill somebody simply by scaring the driver behind you and causing an accident.
Have you been through any high winds and/or rain and/or snow with this velcro method? Also I'm curious why you didn't velcro the entire perimeter of the panel? Do you think that water might collect under the panel more easily that way? Thanks.
Think about leaving the back edge unsealed. You will always get condensation under the panel. At a minimum have a weep hole. If you leave the whole back edge open the air will pull the moisture out as it sits or even better as you drive. A Glaziers option.. Nice job..
Forgive me for not reading all of the previous comments and apologies for repeating any prior advice but all I’ve experienced so far with flexible panels is to make sure that the underside of the panel is vented if there are air voids beneath - if it lifts due to pressure build up then the panel will distort and cells will break
Thanks for the top. I'm experimenting with a couple new mounting techniques that I'll share soon.
Hi Tito;
I've done the same on a 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser, and actually went with the eternabond tape after seeing your video which gave me the idea.
It's been several months now, and it's performed very well, even though my panel is at a bit of a curve, since the roof of the cruiser is curved somewhat.
It's performed very well; I have it hooked up to a deep cycle battery with a charge controller, and use the system to power some electronics in my car for long periods of time without having to worry about draining my car's starter battery.
Having been nearly a year since doing this, I haven't had any issues yet.
I've gone down freeways and have experienced all weather except snow in it, and it's stayed on very sturdy. One way I varied from your approach is that I did include a few pieces of double sided tape along the center of the panel (Center horizontally), each placed at 25% intervals, vertically, to hold the center of the panel just in case the passing wind pulled it upward.
So far it's been looking fine, though I have seen the same expansion of the adhesive at the edges of the material. I believe this is just due to the heat of the sun expanding the material a bit. I spent most of my time with this out in phoenix, where it's 115+ outside, and the metal on my vehicle was just burning up, so i figured that's what caused my tape to have a bit of the adhesive expanding out the sides.
Since my vehicle has such a slope on the roof, I haven't had standing water, and thus haven't run into the issue(s) you've faced with water getting underneath the tape. Mine's pulled itself up a little, vertically, because the panel resists the slope of my vehicle, but it's been more or less the same as it was day one.
It's been interesting, I've gotten tons of comments on it since I've added this panel to a normal car / suv.
+Douglas Robinson Thanks so much for sharing this. I get a lot of questions about mounting on metal that can get really hot. Great feedback. Thanks.
Why wd you put solar panels on a car?? Do u live in your car?
Use the back of a spoon to smooth out the air bubbles and add pressure to the adhesive in the corners of the eterna bond when you install. As an art archivist I’ve found that tapes need all the air bubbles smoothed out for maximum strength and durability.
I know this video is a few years old but I’m installing mine today with VHB tape in the middle of the panels and clear gorilla tape on the outside edges to seal it. Also corrugated plastic underneath to level off the uneven places of my vans roof. I plan to leave some gaps in the seal tape to let air get in to cool underneath the panels and also to let the water drain out. A name with the clear gorilla tape because it’s just as strong as the regular stuff, not as hot, and it won’t be a big deal if it overlaps into the actual working solar area, Also it will allow me to see if anything is getting trapped underneath the panels like water.
So postscript, install the panels today and I will tell you that this VHB tape is basically permanent. I made one little mistake and barely barely got it pried off. So for now I’m gonna say this tape is the perfect bonding for flexible solar panels on my van.
@SKINLA682 so far so good. The clear gorilla tape is a bit yellow but no affect on the performance.
You don't need to re-do the tape. The panels are weather proof, they are ok.
You do not need to tape the panel down on ALL sides. The tape is to keep the panels on the roof, not weather proofing them.
I would simple make a good-size drain hole at the lowest corner, and call it a day.
+MetaView7 Yup that's the solution for now. Thanks.
At high speed driving or strong winds the panels will want to lift off, so sticking panels down as well as tape sounds a good idea. 3m make really strong automotive double sided tapes (like the ones that stick rear view mirrors to glass) that stuff has an incredible grip!!
I agree that it would add more grip. However, that stuff is really strong. Should you every need to move or remove the panel though, it would be difficult to do so without destroying the panel in the process. That's the only downside I see. Thanks for the comment.
To to remove you use a strong twine with a sawing action and it works just like a cheese cutter wire. That's a trick I learnt from the windscreen fitters!! no damage to paintwork or panel. :-)
One thing I've learned today is that Dicor is some pretty good stuff! Another thing I've learned in the past is that sometimes it's best to ALLOW for water to get in, by giving it a safe way out. Just a small untaped portion at the lowest point may be all you need to have the Eternabond panels being eternal. However, then vibration and dust can be an issue as well.
Very cool! Maybe just a dab of sealant in the corners would solve this issue. When you overlap the tape, there will always be a gap no matter what you do below it with the double sided tape. Especially over time with movement of the vehicle and heat/cold cycles.
I would run a thin bead of Dicor all the way around the inner edge of that tape and the panel, much like you did on the panels with the screws. I would think that would prevent any further water migration inside the tape. Just a thought. . . . . .
+gac914 Thanks. I've thought of trying similar things in the future using double sided tape and Dicor.
Hi Brian, Great video showing long term results. I am planning on using eternabond on my flexible panels. I was thinking of leaving an opening in the tape on the low points. Meaning don't completely tape around the entire panel. My theory is to allow water to drain and allow air underneath panel. Just a theory any opinion? Happy travels, Lou
+RV Habit I think it's a good idea if there's going to be any kind of gap underneath.
That's what i'd do, since the waterproofing really isn't needed.
+RVwithTito always have 1-3" air gap underneath to prevent heat damage and voltage,amp reduction due to heat damage
If ya use 2 sided tape under the outer edge , will the panel relax into a bowl ? . 45 Deg. tape the corners w/ the tape you already used . Much luck
I thought it was a great idea how you did the follow up video a year later. Especially since many ideas put on youtube are UNTESTED. By having this after some time this shows PROVING the ideas and tweaking them with changes as needed.
Cool experiment. Just looking at your examples, the dicor looked great, the screws not so much. The tape looked great, except for the water issue. So, how ‘bout using the dicor and replacing the screw attachment method with the tape? That seems like a great combo and avoids punching holes in a perfectly sealed roof.
That's very similar to what I'm leaning towards for the next go around. Some VHB tape underneath to hold it down in a few areas, then Dicor around the edges. No screws.
i find it simple to drill a hole.. it will not hurt the roof at all as you seal it up.. i have a new rv and i was worried but i did it and im happy i did.. the glass panels seem to work better and hold up better.. less money too.. i like the 160 watt panels just feed back thanks for the video great job.. we need to meet up one day
+The Deprey's Thanks I haven't had any trouble with drilling either. I wanted to do these different for those who didn't want to drill.
Drilling is easy. Selling a van with holes drilled in the roof may not be so easy.
Yep, and one small leak and you're in a world of trouble.
Me too ,I just drilled 4 holes in my old 1966 camper I’m rebuilding . I bought this Aluminum Roof seal with fibers used this first first as I did have a leak before panel install. fixed leak then mounted panels and brackets and screws right into the roof then sealed the screws. I have no leaks and I’m using a 175 Watt Mono Panel collects electricity even in shade . Loving my off grid system can’t wait to join more panels.
The Deprey's yes my people don't think that solar is that profitable but that's comparing it on average use because when the electricity is free you can basically Run 100 watt light bulbs and leave them on all day and not give a shit or whatever antique technology that is power draining so theoretically you are saving 10 grand every two and a half years if you power your house with 100 watt light bulb in the daytime and eventually you'll be able to have 10 Tesla batteries under Freon Refrigeration so they last a lot longer you can just leave everything on lights on all night and put giant spotlights on your house just to brag to your neighbors about how much for electricity you have and they have to pay a fortune just to use shity ass 40 watt light bulbs.
Have you measured the panel output when the panel is new and a year later?
Thanks for taking the time Brian......
You are welcome Ray.
Nice video. Hadn't heard of your tape, thanks. Wish I hadn't drilled my old VW fiberglass roof. I found a nice two sided product on "A", Foxnovo Car Auto Double-sided Tape Heat Resistant Clear Acrylic Adhesive Foam Tape
Hi, I like your vids, I left small openings allowing moisture to dry, I did use double sided tape and mask the outside. I little air flow is not bad for me. I have grooves on my van so it seems ok 9 months in.
Another force which is acting on your panels is lower pressure air that moves over your RV as you drive. This acts like a suction lifting the panels up which creates flex. This force is likely what is lifting the tape over time. If you have ever sat in a soft top vehicle on the highway, you know what I mean. You may still prevent water/moisture infiltration without any adhesive under the flex panel by placing a bead of silicone around the edge of the panel before applying the Eternabond tape.
Hi Tito, how about using some kind of slotted strut full length under the panel edges. This would let water escape around the edges and air circulation.
Good Morning. Just checking to see that the tape is still doing a great job. I'm installing my solar panels this week with tape . Jack
Yeah. Still in good shape.
I think i would just not go so far on the corners, since waterproofing isn't a concern, just leave the corners open a few mm so the water can drain out.
Thank you for this review! People are often excited about their new purchases / installations ... but I realize that it is often after a few months / years that the best reviews come out ;-) btw, for that installation you did, I would take into consideration the condesation (between day and night, cold and hot)
+Pat Montreal Yes good point. As long as there's a gap, there will be condensation.
Very informative
Is it possible to add a little self leveler in those corners where the water enters.
Yes you can! But check out my latest mounting method here: ua-cam.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/v-deo.html
After installing the tape run a thin bead of sealant along the tape edge on the panel. That should work.
The advantage to your taping the panels is that they can be repaired and removed with little effort, however you just found the water issue. Mine have been glued to the roof since day one and are not going anywhere BUT no water buildup. I suppose if they ever go bad I would have to peel them off in pieces.
+PAT DOWNEY My older Unisolar panels are glued down that way with absolutely no issues. I would probably just mount something over the top instead of trying a removal.
You mention that you had “a lot of hot weather “ on occasions.
Are your panels on a steel or fibreglass roof ??
Did your panels suffer any over heating in the hot weather ?
I have four 50watt panels to fit on a fibreglass roof and am wondering if they would suffer any overheating?
Here in the UK we don’t have many heatwaves but I’m worried they may overheat being on fibreglass, which won’t dissipate heat as a steel roof would.
I certainly would like to install them as you have, with either tape or silicone bonding but the heat issue is bothering.
I have seen all manner of mounting with spaced polycarbonate panels or mounting brackets to create an air space, which would make a lot more complicated job.
Your further comments would help and be appreciated. Kindest regards, Robert.
Found this interesting video early 2021 and would like to ask how the efficiency varies in hot conditions. Solid panels are recommended to be installed with a gap underneath to get a bit of airflow that cools the panel down...what are your experiences, gluing it directly to the roof?
Wow, I know this is an older video but it has been so helpful in my research on solar., GRACIAS.
Great to hear. There are a couple newer ones too.
Really enjoyed this video. I have two Efleland 140W modules, but they seem to have spot heat problems from perhaps bad tabbing. Working on a refund on these but Efleland is unreachable. I noted that your videos must be seeded with “Elfeland” so I thought you might be using them.
Nope. These are not Efleland panels. They are from HQST.
One of my concerns with Eternabond - at least on my van's metal roof - is how do you get it OFF. For example in this case, where you've got leak issues, or maybe you just want to put on a different solar panel, how do you get the Eternbond to unbond, without ripping off the paint or some of your plastic/rubber roof? Will WD-40 do it?
Also, do you not have heat issues with your panels flat against the roof? One vanner (Will Prouse) in his video, laid his flexible panels over wooden doles on the roof to give the panels some space underneath.
+Jack Kunkel I haven't had heat issues that I could tell. These type of flex panel actually release heat from the top unlike traditional panels covered with glass. I will try and remove some Eternabond in another video.
I have a metal roof also. I removed Eternabond with one of those multi-tools the ones that vibrate side to side. I used the knife attachment. Not too bad to do
yeah i think you'd be fine with a metal roof, my parents have a tin skinned roof on their 5er and i had to remove some adhesive, used a scraper blade on an oscillating head tool and it made short work of the adhesives, on a rubber roof, i think you'd have to just leave it on there and maybe cut right near the panel to remove the panel, but leave the leftover tape, its not ideal, but i think it'd do more harm than good trying to remove it.
Hair drier,,, search UA-cam,,,I saw a video on how to remove Eternabond from an RV roof,,,Best Regards
I had one of these panels immolate one cell last summer. It had an air gap underneath it but it was very hot out and in full sun. Got it exchanged via amazon but happy it wasn't lying flat on the rv roof
Excellent follow up. Bought my first (two) 50w Uxcell (Mohoo) mono solar panels. Since I don't have an RV or boat...used my laundry drying rack as a "solar stand". Total weight comes in at about 6-7 lbs, folds up smartly, and I attached the two solar panels to the laundry drying rack using those "Gear Ties" found at Lowe's, Home Depot. Best part...the wings on the laundry drying rack adjust. I also drilled a couple of "extra" holes in the tubing for more angle-opportunity. The rack is stainless steel. Just an idea I came up with that might help your viewers, campers, preppers, tailgaters, out on the road. Got videos on my channel. Take care...again, great follow up to these flexible panels!
Yeah I've seen your drying rack setup. Makes it easy to move around for sure and air dry them at the same time :)
Indeed!...and the panels are "air cooled" too on that rack. Seen 6.1 amps...really impressive.
I think there will always be condensation taking place. My experience with condensation is to let the air flow through. Sealing it tight may work against you especially in the PNW.
+Gary Boyd You're probably right. Just the thought of not being able to clean under there dives my OCD brain nuts.
RVwithTito I have a fifth wheel with a solar I had installed when new 9 years ago. The panel sits up on some legs. Air can get underneath. No major issues so far and I am PNW not far from you as well. My unit sits in forest all winter and that is tough on them.
Thank you for this video. I read through the description and the comments and I wanted to ask, Is your roof a rubber roof? I just bought flexible panels and am wondering if the eternabond tape is ok for a rubber roof.
Yes. I have a rubber roof.
Sealing those corners is a good idea. You don't want standing water anywhere. How about "injecting" some caulking into your "drain holes." Can you say that worst case the Eternabond is good for a year or two?
Dumb novice question; Solar panels peak operating temp is in the 70° F range, this is why they recommend solar panels have a 1" to 2" gap under them for heat venting issues. Heat decreases the solar panels output. With flexible flush mount solar panels such as those shown, I’m guessing the heat dissipates into your vehicle/trailer, and the panels output may suffer from the less than optimal temperatures. So... are flush mount panels recommended to have more than the needed rating installed? Are normal solar panels better? I’m confused.
3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 best out there .
We have a 5th wheel that I have design side wall mount plates over the rain gutters.
Each of the side plates where bolted in to the aluminum studs of the campe,had a used motor home and the
Previous owners hold mounted though roof and it leaked .
With the 2880 watts of solar panels I need them held strong.
+RV solar homesteaders on the road !!! Jeff Loitz Thanks for the tip.
I have had sailboats for years and can tell you I will never use 3M 5200. It is a permanent adhesive and is practically impossible to get off. 3M makes easier sealants to work with such as 4500 and 5000. I think you are much better off going with dicor or eternabond.
Yes it might be true but for my set up i need the
Reassurance that nothing was going to let loss.
Thanks for sharing that video! You should glue some bolts to your RV and then you should add the tape and this is not going to happen. I saw on the video you glued your solar panel first. I think now you need to add more tape or maybe use a different one. Did you have a loss power in that year? How is your solar panel performance doing ?
Thanks for the information. It is always great to see how things work in the long term.
+Idaho Rider No problem. Thanks.
I also had second thoughts about a hole in the roof but I also knew the tape will fail due to rain. Heat , moss, wind birds picking at it , sooooooo screwed them , some tape putty around the holes and dicor self leveling up, I'm retired so less time on a ladder and roof is ok with me.
The spot where water is being pulled in is very tiny (where the tape meets) but the movement of the panel during wind or travel would create a suction action pulling water in. A tiny drop of silicon on each corner would probably have eliminated the issue completely.
You're probably right.
I am considering flexible panels and some call for using adhesive caulk AND intentionally leaving a 1" gap of no caulk on wayward & low edge to allow water to naturally drain if some water condenses underneath.
Is this crazy or smart?
Not crazy. Smart. I've always had condensation regardless of how well it was sealed up.
Maybe this has already been suggested, why not leave some gaps in the Eternabond to serve as weep holes? Not trapping the water would let it drain naturally.
Yeah. That's a good idea. I'll probably do that next time. Thanks!
Nice job Tito, you have inspired me to think out of the box. My "installer" was going to put these on a rack and he says they will make wind noise. Not a problem using this method. I really like the relcrow idea. Or why not just run a bead of silicon on the back and glue it to the top?
I have a 235W module on my RV roof. It is attached to the aluminum roof with three "U" aluminum channels, fastened into roof trusses with #12 sheet metal screws. Before I fastened it with the screws, I installed a piece of Eternabond tape on the roof, under the locations for the aluminum mounts. The fasteners were driven through the brackets, through the Eternabond tape, through the roof, and into the roof trusses. As I drove the screws through everything, the adhesive layer of the tape wound around the screws and over the heads. It virtually sealed the holes as I installed the screws. Anyone that is apprehensive about holes in an RV roof should try this method. It is far superior to applying lap sealant like Dicor, because the tape lasts a very long time and the sealants tend to crack and deteriorate over time.
Are you sure that it's rainwater as opposed to condensation from heating and cooling /air moisture ?
I thought that solar panels worked more efficiently if you kept them cool ie allowed air to circulate under them but not sure if it applies to flexible panels. ..
I certainly think that keeping your flexible panels cooler than hot will increase your Efficiency
Make the eternabond tapes meet at 45 degrees. Apply some sealant over the seam, and cover the corner with a another piece of eternabond at 90 degrees to that seam.
Aren't you worried by heating up those panels? If they''re sealed like this, they will get very hot probably and underperform because of that, won't they? Wouldn't it be better to lift them a little to let the air (and water) circulate freely under the panels?
You must let air in under the panel.i did nt and cooked it.lesson lernt
Alternatives to mounting flexi solar panels:: use 6mm or 10mm Tile backing board ( used for underfloor heating / tiling) , lay panel on tilt sheet cut to size of panel,cut out enough vent holes for ventilation, drill m4 holes, glue panel to tile board, mount on wood frame ( in my case to Shed) with m4 hex nuts/ bolts and largest m4 washers you can find. Sandwich 4 washers onto m4 frame , 3 on bottom 1 on top ( this leaves another gap for heat dissapation away from wood) . Cost of board 6mm £11 or $14 or 10mm £14 or $17.81.
That's a fantastic idea. How many watts is each flexible panel?? What kind of controller do you use. Thank you so much in advance.😁😁😁
Hi There, we live in Ibiza a long way from you Guys! We are currently rebuilding a 49 year old 508 Mercedes, and the moment has come to fit the 2, 140watt flex panels. One issue I don’t see mentioned is the shortened life of these as opposed to non flex, apparently due to over heating, as the roof is metal and we life in a hot area. We have sprayed the inside of the van with 1/8” cork to prevent condensation and resultant rust problems and we are thinking of spraying the roof under the panel location to reduce the heat build up. It is water roof and very strong, any thoughts on this. We will then take the Eterna bond route for fixing. Love your videos and feedback, thanks.
Any kind of insulation on a metal roof would definitely help. You would be the first to suggest sprayed on cork which is pretty neat actually. I'm thinking of trying this platic stuff they make signs out of (amzn.to/2tjDnhZ). I think it would hold up on hot metal, but I'm not 100% certain.
If the inside corners where the tape overlaps is the only place water is getting in, a dab of dicor or similar sealant over each lap joint should keep the water out. Might not work now that water has penetrated but for future installs....
You are also creating moisture under the panels by that set up. But love the idea of the portable ones you made.
Hi Brian. My husband and I are brand new to this RV thing and are learning a lot from your videos. Thanks for making them! Just curious, now that you've had a chance to see how both screw down and Eternabond installs went and how they've held up, do you have a preference?
Ooh. You would make me answer that. There are certainly great benefits to the eternabond solution, but for long term mounting, I would have to go with the screw down / Dicor method. I do have an idea for another option using a thin insulating layer that I may try at some point. Stay tuned.
Good to know! VHB tape actually looks like the easiest install, but alas, we have a rubber roof. Thanks again for your vids. They'll be a big help when we get around to adding solar.
I think moisture is always going to wick in, think about leaving some kind of weeping vent on the 'low' end.
I think so.
Would it maybe be worth it to have a very small tube like half a capped metal yerba mate straw embedded on that low end? You could then suck/pump out that water that way, if it's a mold consideration. Just thinking out loud.
Is it safe to install the panels onto like a piece of plywood instead? Some of us want to be able to move the solar panels around. But I'm not sure if wood is safe since there were a few incidents of people having fires from solar panels. (Although maybe this was actually from fresnel lenses?)
What would someone install them onto if they wanted to be able to move them around, but didn't have welding or metalworking skills?
The flexible solar panels do get damaged easy if not installed on something to keep them from moving.
good follow-up. From the comments, seems like there are ways to fix the water issue. Look forward to seeing what you do.
If you leave vent holes the water wont collect. and since you did not drill the roof the water does not hurt.
hi, nice work with the panel! MAybe one upgrade: you can close down the tape connections where the water sweaps under the panel with transparent silikon - the type which the roof makers use, as that one can whitstand UV and heat. This way the water cannot get under the tape.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Hi Brian, I think you may have a condensation issue with moisture under the panel and may not be water getting in under the eternabond tape.
hows this going in 2019? I another great idea that will have a 8mm air gap under the panels for cooling.
I came up with a new way to mount these this year. ua-cam.com/video/hROYaqY83v4/v-deo.html. I also replaced those panels with SUNPOWER branded panels.
I'm coming in more than a year after this was originally posted. I'm brand new to "rv" life and recently purchased a shuttle bus which I plan to VERY SIMPLY remodel into an RV/Camper. My 2 160 watt 12 v Renogy flexible panels are sitting in my living room as I type this and I'm googling several hours each day all things solar. Still need to buy a charge controller, lithium battery(ies) and an inverter/charger, as well as all the various cords/connectors and such. So far, I don't feel like I know what to get and any suggestions are much appreciated. I understand my charge controller will need to be a 30amp. So, my big question here is.....have you learned anything more regarding the non-hole installation of your flexible solar panels? I am considering the VHB tape mentioned below, though I have no idea what it is. Any feedback from anyone on this feed is much appreciated. Thank you :)
Great videos. Would you recommend this for all types of roof material? Thanks
I was going to instal with silicone on back side of flexible solar panel and avoid tape. Can you think of any downsides?
Why not put some silicone glue on the corners to keep it from getting under the tape in the edges of the corner. at the solar panel
+RV Norm Burgess Yup. Could do that.
Good follow up Tito. I remember your video, and seeing how yours worked out, I decided to do the same one mine when I get them. Actually, I am getting close. Lately though, I've seen some neato installs with rigid flat panels, that have the advantage of creating an airspace shadowing the roof, keeping the RV cooler. So now I'm torn. Which way, if you had to do it again, would you go and thank you for your opinion. Keep in mind, I haven't found any good way to conveniently tilt these things towards the Sun. I am aware that a flat installation is not optimal.
+Ricky Rox I would go with flex panels if doing it again. I keep portable panels handy for getting low sun.
RVwithTito Thank you Sir.
Why not leave a gap between the leading and trailing edges tape and the sides? Do you think you need to completely cover every inch of the panel's border?
I usually like to keep my roof pretty clean and it would really bug me if I couldn't clean all the grime that would build up under there. Other than that reason, you're probably right and it would be fine.
I think you should devote some time and thought to allowing the water a way to get out. After working as an electrician, and weatherproofing enclosures, I have discovered that THERE IS ALWAYS A WAY FOR WATER TO GET IN. Maybe you can add a straw like Device at the low point of the roof. This would be similar to weatherproof electrical boxes having holes in the bottom where gravity would drain the water out. Pressurizing the area underneath the Solar panel, is also a way to keep water out. The phone company has been using this technique for decades to keep splice boxes dry. Filling an electrical box with a potting compound, eliminates all the airspace, and thereby prevents water from entering. I'm sure there are many other examples of how to prevent water infiltration.
I wonder if it might have helped if you had also done a thin bead of clear silicone around the edges of the eternabond/ solar panel junctions?
Do you find that the panels fixed on the roof run hotter & less efficient than old-style panels that allow air to circulate
I like the tape idea. I think all you need to do is use Dicor caulk on the solar panel at the corners of the tape.
Put a little dab of self leveling Dicor to seal those little gaps in the Eternabond overlap, and you are done.
I think his tape is a little too close to the cells for that. Even a tiny bit covering a cell would mean a large loss of power.
I don't think so. It would not take very much Dicor to seal the opening while not interfering with any cell, that's for sure what I would do.
+Larry Askew I'm not going to worry about it. If I do anything I'll probably remove the existing Eternabond and try something different.
If you really think that idea is going to work I would expect you to do it on the initial install when everything is clean and dry
Great update, I believe putting some caulk or silicone at the end of the tape edges would provide more protection and stop water seaping in.
Thinking the same thing. Could be done such that tape could still be removed if removal was required.
Have you found that the surface have become discoloured or faded as such if not do you put anything on them to stop that?
Is it true that those types of panels won't work effectively due to overheating?, being that the whole backside is in contact with the roof as opposed to a mounted panel having airflow all around it.
I am using 1" 3M double side tape on front end and 1/2" on sides, 3 -5 patches in the center to prevent flapping, no tape on edges. One of my panel died after 4 years and it was very difficult to remove 1" tape, it holds very good. PET flexible panels on a video do not like snow and ice, protect them for winter. Protect if you do not use it, they do not like sun also). No kidding, deteriorate very fast. ETFE lamination advertised as better for panels but I don have chance to try yet
Thank you, you saved me some stress on my build. Thanks for the update
What about just Dicor along the edges and over the grommets ? Dicor is a sealant but has good bonding properties
+G Keller Agreed. I am very fond of Dicor. I've thought of doing just that.