I watch several home renovation channels, which are all good, but This Old House always seems to have the most complete and professional videos. Thank you, Thank you! I'm about to replace my basement utility sink.
I kicked it and some pvc glue because the cans were taped together all over some off white tile with troupe grout, worst day of my life. I was doing a bathroom trap.
@nicholaspeters01 its also the style of Ask this Old house and This old house. They usally always have the homeowner involved with the construction. It shows audience members that you (homeowner) can do this too. Ask this old house offers the most detailed step by step planning without cutting corners and making sure eveything is up code.
This Old House is one of my favorite television shows. I recently bought a Samsung television, and it offers a whole channel of past TOH episodes for free. This video was very helpful, as I am currently modifying the plumbing for my utility sink.
For future reference, you don't have to but it is recommended that you level the sink(if it has adjustable feet) and put some tapcons into the front 2 feet to stop it from moving all over when brushing against it.
The video did not show but I was wondering how he got primer and glue on the slip or repair coupling above on the vent since you had to put the slip coupling on first slide it up or down. I see how you could prime and glue the pipe itself but how do you get inside of the coupling ? I assume he just put it on first and then slide it down the pipe then put them together but that seems awful messy but the only way I can imagine
He also created two s-traps. He used a double Y/45 combos to connect those drains when it should have been a double tee! Those arent vents... they're s traps!
Is the double-wye fitting with 45s is ok for venting and code? I thought the trap arm must let air pass above the level of the trap weir. The way it dives down before joining the vent puts a barrier between the vent and trap. I thought it would need a double sani-tee, which is a sharp 90 from both sides, or else vent the two traps separately and join above the flood level.
Absolutely correct. Been doing plumbing for over 20 years and own my own business. It should have been two san tees stacked on top of each other. What you have to remember is that they have different codes in other locations in the united states. Ive always been on upc plumbing code.
It should have been either a double tee, or two tees, one stacked on top of each other. Preferably the later so when its snaked it wont go through the double tee. He was incorrect when he said it wasn't a vent under that tee, its called a wet vent as is legal in every state as long as its on the same floor. This is a horrible video.
@@MisterGreenGuy Don't give bad advice. Wet venting isn't that simple. You can't dump a huge load like a washing machine in above a sink trap. That slug of water is enough to block the pipe and siphon out the sink trap. The reverse might be OK, but the washer can't be stacked above the sink. Wet venting allows certain special cases where a sink (a very small load) can trickle into vents for larger fixtures, with particular restrictions. I don't remember all the allowed cases, but for example a bathroom sink can drain into a 3" toilet vent.
one time my boss was soldering a rough in valve right next to a fiberglass bathtub we were about to put in and melted the entire side of it haha, warped half the tub
This DWV is incorrect. A double wye and 45's place the vent below the fixture trap, which is not allowed due to potential siphoning similar to an S. Also before gluing joints together, you deburr the inside of the pipe and chamfer the outside edge of the pipe for best fit into the hub. When gluing, you start with pencil alignment marks offset then push down and twist until marks line up to spread the cement.
I was looking for some instruction on a tilt to the sink. 4 years ago I had some no -professional secure my sink (that looks like yours) to the floor. It’s gotten some black growth in my very dry basement. (50% or less (in winter)). I put a level in the sink and realized it’s skewed. I was looking for the right way to install a basement sink so it drains ALL it’s water.
My question is that the drain pipe is pretty low to the ground. So since there is no pump of any kind the drain pipe must be at that same level all the way around the basement and out of the house. If the drain was higher than the washing machine there would have to be a pump to get it up to the drain pipe going out of the house? Is that correct?
I am currently replacing an old utility sink where one of the legs have rusted through and fallen off. The problem is that the sink fell when this happened and broke the drain pipe that ran into the floor. The drain pipe was never actually secured to the floor it just sat in a hole that drains to either the sump pump first or directly to the sewage system. Any advise on fixing this problem would be appreciated.
Should’ve just drained the washing machine into the utility tub. That’s the simplest fix and is to code. The double wye fitting acting as a sanitary tee is an illegal fitting because it cuts off the vent.
Can I add a sink to laundry room, maybe tap into tje washer water pipe and trap? My house was built in 2005 so iam assuming the laundry standpipe is 2"
thats the new code im pretty sure it wasnt like that when this was made also if you dont hva etwo inch pipes where ypu are just drain it into the laundry sink
Take the swivel trap apart under the sink is to standard, clean the trap and the flexible connector, if this doesn't work then the clog may be within the trap arm or beyond that if your really unlucky
I had some stain on my slop sink so I sand it down but I like to hit with a sealer do you know of one I tried searching online but counldnt find any. Thanks
Wye fittings are for horizontal installation, a sanitary tee should have been used to keep the vent opening above the trap weir. The traps are now at risk of trap seal failure.
First year apprentice here... I thought shutoff valves for sinks should have white handles to indicate they were lead free. Am I wrong or ill informed? Help the new guy out.
Are you able to still have people install drywall on a setup like that? Would all you need to do is remove fixtures add framing and drywall? Like is there a code to make all plumbing very close to the "pre-wall"? Or is there situation where all plumbing would have to be removed then add the framing? Very very dumb question but I just gained a lot of interest in plumbing so any response is appreciated.
Great installation. I would have run the washer discharge directly into the utility tub and put a lint sock over it. That would help to prevent lint from clogging the drain.
looking for help here..... I don't know what plumbing codes are in MA, but I am looking to install a utility sink in my basement... not for laundry purposes though because my washer and dryer is upstairs on the first floor.... This sink will be used strictly to watch my hands after working with tools, and yard work without having to go upstairs to wash them...... I have a 2 story house with a full basement..... I plan on locating this sink approximately 10 feet away from my sump pump..... My questions are: since the sink will drain only 10 feet away from my sump pump, I planned on coming out of the drain and gravity feed the line directly into the sump.... do I need to install a p-trap here or can I just 90 out of it and drain it into the pit?...... Is it best to just cut into the 3/4 inch cold water and hot water copper supply lines to feed the sink and just install a check valve on the supply line?..... Im assuming that if the sink is not running in the basement, the water pressure upstairs on the other 2 floors would not be affected... is this accurate to say? Every video I see on youtube is a sink / laundry configuration.... I cant find one that fits what im looking to do.
WanderleiSilva29 if you plan to drain into your sump, a project like this is probably a bit involved and I’d recommend getting advice from a licensed plumber
But is that not the WRONG kind of fitting for the two drains? It should look more like a cross as not a Y as now it forms an illegal type of trap (an S trap rather than a P trap).
It all depends on what state your in and what code your working from... New Jersey you can use a cross wye with 2- 45° offsets as long as it's less than 3 feet from vent.... if any more than a 2nd vent would need to be installed.... I heard in other states that a double sanitary tee would be required
@@WooferCooker Well, he technically created an s-trap when he used the double wye. A washing machine is going to suck that s-traps dry 100 percent guaranteed. That is going to be a very stinky basement.
My washer stack uses a double sanitary T, also the drain pipe isn't tall enough to code in my area. Not that I know why you cant stack 2 ninety degrees but I assume it causes a suction of some kind, or perhaps you cant use sink and washer at same time because one would defeat the P-Trap. That pipe over pipe stuff just doesnt look legit at all. Anyone else think having a sink near a washer just isnt worth it? Also no water hammer arrestor.
Cliff's post The drain appears to be near the bottom, running horizontally. It would need to be sloped a minimum of 1/4 inch per foot to allow for drainage and connected to the stack using a sanitary Tee.
Richard, you left pipes in front of the window, and that seems like a poor choice on several levels. Could you have lowered those pipes below the window, or is there some code issues that required you to block the window? As an inspector (Electricaf), I’d likely fail the installation and ask. You to lower those pipes. Thanks
Purple makes the inspector's job easier. If they see the primer, they know it's up to code. Clear would make it harder to establish. You are correct that in a visible plumbing fixture, clear would look nicer. You would only need to use the clear where it is exposed.
If a plumber does not prime his/her joints, I would hardly call them a professional plumber. Our inspector let us use clear and if our joints failed, it only made us look bad plus we were liable for them in the long run.
@@billybob042665 Here in Texas, it is required, so the inspector knows the plumber primed the pipe! Except for visible pipe, we use clear (like under sinks).
I know this is an old video but one thing I noticed is they didn't secure the sink to the concrete which is a dumb move. I would have dry fitted everything in place. I then would have marked the four holes where the sink's legs would be screwed to the concrete. That way you can move the sink out of the way when you drill the four holes for fasteners which will make it much easier to secure the sink after all the hoses and drain pipe is installed. Not securing a utility sink is dumb. It's such a simple but effective thing to do but yet a lot of people tend to skip this step just from being lazy.
Michael Z technically there could be water in the pipe at any time for any reason, so it’s typically correct to assume it’s not a vent when it’s set up like that
But wait, this still isn't to code. You have to use a double tee and not a double y due to siphoning issues. I personally don't think there's anything wrong with the wye, but code doesn't usually allow it.
thanks for this video! it's made me realize there's no way in hell i have the expertise or time to learn to do this, especially if I need to troubleshoot a situation that is out of the scope of my knowledge, so I'm just going to call a plumber.
@@jacksplumbingvideos7147 it definitely doesn't keep the sink clean as someone who had that setup for 20 years all it creates is a place for lint to build up in the trap and clog stuff
What is the point of the traps with the pipe behind it going straight up, to my understanding, traps are meant to stop smells from the sewage, but that pipe above circumvents that, (Hah, circum-vents).
It is a vent it breaks the vacuum so the traps do not gurgle just as he sated in the video . The traps work as they are meant to the water in them keeps the gases out of the home.The vent vents the gases out of the home through the roof of the home and also break the vacuum that would be there if there was not a vent . It like holding your finger over a straw after you dip it into water a vacuum is created . Removing your finger breaks that vacuum .
Our local code states that you have to have the bigger waste load be first which in case is the washer drain then you can install a tee in above that one for the utility sink to allow for proper drainage and venting.
The double wye breaks the event. Fitting prohibited to use for this application. Inspection results from me: NOT APPROVED! Regards, an up to date Master Plumber.
Master here as well. I CRINGED so hard when he used double combos for VENTS! He created double s-traps. Millions of people watch this show too.... ugh. I don't know what's worse, him doing that or the hundreds of people here commenting on how awesome of a job he did. *Smacks head*
It's just a sink. The utility part of the name describes its appearance more than anything else. What people use it for in laundry rooms is presoaking laundry before washing it. If you spill tomato sauce on your shirt you can rinse the majority of it off, scrub it with baking soda or vinegar or whatever stain preventative treatment. They are also used in basements and garage simply to wash your hands after getting dirty. Rather than washing the motor oil on your hands into the kitchen or bathroom sink.
You'd either use a special fitting called a 'Figure 5', or a double sanitary tee. Using a wye like this cuts off the venting for each of the traps when they're in use. A figure 5 is preferred, to avoid the washer throwing water over to the sink drain, since a sanitary cross (double tee) is straight across. The Figure 5 steeply drops the branches into the drain, and vents. Here's a related tidbit... Toto toilets dump very quickly, so in their instructions, they call for correctly sized figure 5 fittings in a back-to-back installation.
Purple primer everywhere, apprentice marks on the fittings, rolling a street elbow out of a wye to a non-standard angle and dry-fitting joints are all really terrible habits that would be cause for immediate dismissal where I work, but I can look past all that because of the DIY nature of this program. However, as a professional plumber, I feel that it is important to point out to anyone using this video to attempt this on their own that using that double wye to tie drains into a vertical stack is not only bad practice, but is specifically prohibited by the International Plumbing Code, and would absolutely be cause for failure of a plumbing inspection. The only acceptable way to tie a drain arm into a stack, without defeating the vent is to use a sanitary tee, or in this situation, a cross tee. Furthermore, the washer stand pipe should be longer. I usually rough in a washer machine using a washer box with an integrated air gap, set at a height of 4', with the weir of the trap within 6 inches of the floor.
My husband is installing a laundry sink and I have to do research since I am the brains and he is my muscle. Thanks for this 👍
u guys get it in?
I watch several home renovation channels, which are all good, but This Old House always seems to have the most complete and professional videos. Thank you, Thank you! I'm about to replace my basement utility sink.
u ever replace the thing?
@@aaronbaraiya3692 Yes I did. It turned out really good. If you have any questions let me know.
@@JayZoop oh great thanks
What he forgot to do was accidentally kick over the purple pipe cleaning solution and permanently stain the floor. Rookie mistake.
Dave Stout I’ve done that before, it sucks
@@johnanders8861 guilty here, except I kicked it all over some pvc pipes.
I kicked it and some pvc glue because the cans were taped together all over some off white tile with troupe grout, worst day of my life. I was doing a bathroom trap.
They already stained it lol see the dots
John Anders ':,’mm
I love that they make the homeowner work. I wish i could do that
@nicholaspeters01 its also the style of Ask this Old house and This old house. They usally always have the homeowner involved with the construction. It shows audience members that you (homeowner) can do this too. Ask this old house offers the most detailed step by step planning without cutting corners and making sure eveything is up code.
This Old House is one of my favorite television shows. I recently bought a Samsung television, and it offers a whole channel of past TOH episodes for free. This video was very helpful, as I am currently modifying the plumbing for my utility sink.
I learn so much from this channel as a first year apprentice. Neat lil trick with the sharpie reference points
For future reference, you don't have to but it is recommended that you level the sink(if it has adjustable feet) and put some tapcons into the front 2 feet to stop it from moving all over when brushing against it.
Just what I’m looking for. Is leveling enough or does it need a tilt to drain ALL the water???
@@stuarthkrantz The tilt should designed be into sink floor for proper drainage. That's why it needs to be level.
Thanks
Just installed one and there is like no water just a little dribble. Barely even a full stream.
Got any advice for me???
@@Jake-li7ih Make sure your shut off valves are open
Of course you know the last portion was recorded after they tested everything, because there was no air in the pipe when they turned on the faucet.
Tv is not realz?
and the water wasn't brown
The video did not show but I was wondering how he got primer and glue on the slip or repair coupling above on the vent since you had to put the slip coupling on first slide it up or down. I see how you could prime and glue the pipe itself but how do you get inside of the coupling ? I assume he just put it on first and then slide it down the pipe then put them together but that seems awful messy but the only way I can imagine
The water in the incoming line, is that at full city water pressure, Richard?
Without a doubt, thats full city water pressure.....
Thanks for this. Pretty new to plumbing in general but I feel like I should be able to handle this
Good video only mistake I see is the 1 1/2 for washing machine drain should have been changed to 2"
I saw that too. 2" is code where I live, but of course it will still drain
He also created two s-traps. He used a double Y/45 combos to connect those drains when it should have been a double tee! Those arent vents... they're s traps!
I'm glad Richard solders the copper and isn't a SharkBite "plumber"
Thanks 🙏 for the video I plan on doing this too not sure how the skill level will be depending on how my laundry room is built
great job Richard..easy when the plumbing n drains aren't cast iron
Yup, goes into detail on all but connecting the pipe to the sink, nice
uhhh......
why are the sink shut offs mismatched???
Can a sink be plumbed to the standpipe with a sanitary T without any issues?
Is the double-wye fitting with 45s is ok for venting and code? I thought the trap arm must let air pass above the level of the trap weir. The way it dives down before joining the vent puts a barrier between the vent and trap. I thought it would need a double sani-tee, which is a sharp 90 from both sides, or else vent the two traps separately and join above the flood level.
No you need a figure five fitting
Absolutely correct. Been doing plumbing for over 20 years and own my own business. It should have been two san tees stacked on top of each other. What you have to remember is that they have different codes in other locations in the united states. Ive always been on upc plumbing code.
No it shuts the vent off should have bream a double ty
It should have been either a double tee, or two tees, one stacked on top of each other. Preferably the later so when its snaked it wont go through the double tee. He was incorrect when he said it wasn't a vent under that tee, its called a wet vent as is legal in every state as long as its on the same floor. This is a horrible video.
@@MisterGreenGuy Don't give bad advice. Wet venting isn't that simple. You can't dump a huge load like a washing machine in above a sink trap. That slug of water is enough to block the pipe and siphon out the sink trap. The reverse might be OK, but the washer can't be stacked above the sink. Wet venting allows certain special cases where a sink (a very small load) can trickle into vents for larger fixtures, with particular restrictions. I don't remember all the allowed cases, but for example a bathroom sink can drain into a 3" toilet vent.
Rich I’m disappointed, that should have been a double ty the double y shuts the vent off when it drops to the 45
I came looking for this comment haha
Yep, he created TWO s-traps. Against UPC, IPC and IRC codes. This isn't legal anywhere.
6:43 looks like the blowtorch got a little too close to the PVC 🔥
It's the most re-watched portion of the video 🤣🤣
one time my boss was soldering a rough in valve right next to a fiberglass bathtub we were about to put in and melted the entire side of it haha, warped half the tub
@@ryanfrizz i once tried soldering and thought i created a T1000
This DWV is incorrect. A double wye and 45's place the vent below the fixture trap, which is not allowed due to potential siphoning similar to an S. Also before gluing joints together, you deburr the inside of the pipe and chamfer the outside edge of the pipe for best fit into the hub. When gluing, you start with pencil alignment marks offset then push down and twist until marks line up to spread the cement.
I was looking for some instruction on a tilt to the sink. 4 years ago I had some no -professional secure my sink (that looks like yours) to the floor. It’s gotten some black growth in my very dry basement. (50% or less (in winter)). I put a level in the sink and realized it’s skewed.
I was looking for the right way to install a basement sink so it drains ALL it’s water.
Sometimes if a man on a galloping horse can't see it, it's OK.
Great video, thank you! I didn't know the purple stuff was a cleaner. How long should you wait after applying the purple before adding the sealer?
The primer dries really fast, I don’t think you really need to wait any particular time… maybe 10 sec then it’s dry and ready.
I never wait, apply primer and then put the glue right on
plumbers the Fredo of the pipe fitter family...
My question is that the drain pipe is pretty low to the ground. So since there is no pump of any kind the drain pipe must be at that same level all the way around the basement and out of the house. If the drain was higher than the washing machine there would have to be a pump to get it up to the drain pipe going out of the house? Is that correct?
Yes. I had to have a sump pump added to my utility sink and the washer drain into the sink.
He completely glued in the sink, no threaded connection on the drain? If you ever have to move the sink few inches you'll have to cut the PVC...
How long was he there? It was day when he got there and pitch black when done.
ya gotta eat
He trying to milk that hourly rate
Filming adds another 4 hours to any job. Ask me how I know
How do you know
Probably has to go to home depot
I always tapcon them down, so you can't bump the sink around.
That's a very good idea,
I am currently replacing an old utility sink where one of the legs have rusted through and fallen off. The problem is that the sink fell when this happened and broke the drain pipe that ran into the floor. The drain pipe was never actually secured to the floor it just sat in a hole that drains to either the sump pump first or directly to the sewage system. Any advise on fixing this problem would be appreciated.
5:50 was he brushing that pipe with something or just cleaning the end from the cut?
Dont you secure the copper lines with clamps?
Agree, secure the pipes and also secure the stand to the floor. A little hacky for RICHARD
Should’ve just drained the washing machine into the utility tub. That’s the simplest fix and is to code. The double wye fitting acting as a sanitary tee is an illegal fitting because it cuts off the vent.
they don't make a "Y" braided supply line that you can just run to another sink?
My house had one of those cheap, builder-grade laundry sinks when I bought it. It was one of the first things I replaced.
what did you replace it with?
Would it be reasonable to use PEX for this context, or should it be copper (e.g. since it's visible and exposed)?
You can use either, both have different pros/cons depending on your situation and preferences.
@@bryanjk Thanks!
You want to be sure to use UV stable PEX in this type application...looks like those pipes are subject to plenty of daylight.
He's a lifetime old-school Plumber he ain't using PEX in this case. Though he has used it in a few cases.
@@geoffrundlett1697 Very good answer as sunlight will degrade pex over time.
Can I add a sink to laundry room, maybe tap into tje washer water pipe and trap? My house was built in 2005 so iam assuming the laundry standpipe is 2"
I believe you can, that's what they did in this video.
I am doing a similar project, but thought I had to upgrade using 2" pipes for the washer standpipe and sink. Is 1-1/2" pipe legal?
thats the new code im pretty sure it wasnt like that when this was made also if you dont hva etwo inch pipes where ypu are just drain it into the laundry sink
No 1 1/2” isn’t legal for laundry stand pipe.
Hey, my sink has these “crinkling/flexible” piping? And it won’t drain what do you recommend me doing? The bottom portion is metal BTW.
Take the swivel trap apart under the sink is to standard, clean the trap and the flexible connector, if this doesn't work then the clog may be within the trap arm or beyond that if your really unlucky
@@rightontarget4727 I fixed it, thank you!
thanks for the video i just put my new one in check it out. P.S. your supply lines need to get secured
I had some stain on my slop sink so I sand it down but I like to hit with a sealer do you know of one I tried searching online but counldnt find any. Thanks
I thought wherever a horizontal pipe met a verticle pipe it had to be a Tee fitting and not a Wye?
Wye fittings are for horizontal installation, a sanitary tee should have been used to keep the vent opening above the trap weir. The traps are now at risk of trap seal failure.
First year apprentice here... I thought shutoff valves for sinks should have white handles to indicate they were lead free. Am I wrong or ill informed? Help the new guy out.
Hello everyone, how long did it take to do this project and around how much would the labor cost be? I'm in chicago. Thank you in advance.
Are you able to still have people install drywall on a setup like that? Would all you need to do is remove fixtures add framing and drywall? Like is there a code to make all plumbing very close to the "pre-wall"? Or is there situation where all plumbing would have to be removed then add the framing? Very very dumb question but I just gained a lot of interest in plumbing so any response is appreciated.
Nice job Richard
Great installation. I would have run the washer discharge directly into the utility tub and put a lint sock over it. That would help to prevent lint from clogging the drain.
The pipe cutters he used are really outdated,do you not have pipe slices in the states?
looking for help here..... I don't know what plumbing codes are in MA, but I am looking to install a utility sink in my basement... not for laundry purposes though because my washer and dryer is upstairs on the first floor.... This sink will be used strictly to watch my hands after working with tools, and yard work without having to go upstairs to wash them...... I have a 2 story house with a full basement..... I plan on locating this sink approximately 10 feet away from my sump pump..... My questions are: since the sink will drain only 10 feet away from my sump pump, I planned on coming out of the drain and gravity feed the line directly into the sump.... do I need to install a p-trap here or can I just 90 out of it and drain it into the pit?...... Is it best to just cut into the 3/4 inch cold water and hot water copper supply lines to feed the sink and just install a check valve on the supply line?..... Im assuming that if the sink is not running in the basement, the water pressure upstairs on the other 2 floors would not be affected... is this accurate to say? Every video I see on youtube is a sink / laundry configuration.... I cant find one that fits what im looking to do.
Go to the city dept they will supply you with code info, and permits if you have to connect to the plumbing
WanderleiSilva29 if you plan to drain into your sump, a project like this is probably a bit involved and I’d recommend getting advice from a licensed plumber
But is that not the WRONG kind of fitting for the two drains? It should look more like a cross as not a Y as now it forms an illegal type of trap (an S trap rather than a P trap).
It all depends on what state your in and what code your working from... New Jersey you can use a cross wye with 2- 45° offsets as long as it's less than 3 feet from vent.... if any more than a 2nd vent would need to be installed.... I heard in other states that a double sanitary tee would be required
Correct me if I’m wrong but the sink has a P trap under it, thus it should be to “code”
@@WooferCooker Well, he technically created an s-trap when he used the double wye. A washing machine is going to suck that s-traps dry 100 percent guaranteed. That is going to be a very stinky basement.
I thought you were supposed to twist the pipe after inserting when doing the glue?
Skills. Love it.
Use clear primer. Just a thought, secure the laundry sink .......
My washer stack uses a double sanitary T, also the drain pipe isn't tall enough to code in my area. Not that I know why you cant stack 2 ninety degrees but I assume it causes a suction of some kind, or perhaps you cant use sink and washer at same time because one would defeat the P-Trap. That pipe over pipe stuff just doesnt look legit at all.
Anyone else think having a sink near a washer just isnt worth it?
Also no water hammer arrestor.
another question- how was the newer pvc connected to the main drain stack or floor drain ?
Cliff's post The drain appears to be near the bottom, running horizontally. It would need to be sloped a minimum of 1/4 inch per foot to allow for drainage and connected to the stack using a sanitary Tee.
How do you glue the repair coupling?
yes
@@aaronbaraiya3692 What kind of answer is that?
@@flat-earther that means he has the same question; not that he was answering it.
@@SheilaSpencer1 Oh okay
Richard, you left pipes in front of the window, and that seems like a poor choice on several levels. Could you have lowered those pipes below the window, or is there some code issues that required you to block the window? As an inspector (Electricaf), I’d likely fail the installation and ask. You to lower those pipes. Thanks
Prefer clear primer to purple on schedule 40. Just looks nicer
Purple makes the inspector's job easier. If they see the primer, they know it's up to code. Clear would make it harder to establish. You are correct that in a visible plumbing fixture, clear would look nicer. You would only need to use the clear where it is exposed.
If a plumber does not prime his/her joints, I would hardly call them a professional plumber. Our inspector let us use clear and if our joints failed, it only made us look bad plus we were liable for them in the long run.
@@billybob042665 Here in Texas, it is required, so the inspector knows the plumber primed the pipe! Except for visible pipe, we use clear (like under sinks).
I know this is an old video but one thing I noticed is they didn't secure the sink to the concrete which is a dumb move. I would have dry fitted everything in place. I then would have marked the four holes where the sink's legs would be screwed to the concrete. That way you can move the sink out of the way when you drill the four holes for fasteners which will make it much easier to secure the sink after all the hoses and drain pipe is installed. Not securing a utility sink is dumb. It's such a simple but effective thing to do but yet a lot of people tend to skip this step just from being lazy.
What a great skill to have; nice work.
Don’t you need that extra piece of pipe so the water doesn’t hit hard ?
So I’m assuming that the solder flux and the pvc cleaner and glue are all safe to get on your hands, as no gloves were worn during this.
It's only not a vent if the washer is draining right?
Michael Z technically there could be water in the pipe at any time for any reason, so it’s typically correct to assume it’s not a vent when it’s set up like that
Why did you use a Wye+45 instead of a double Tee, or perhaps a double vertical each with their own Tee? Your vent is not proper.
Enjoyed the video but my new garage does not have water or drain access. Any ideas on what I can do?
But wait, this still isn't to code. You have to use a double tee and not a double y due to siphoning issues. I personally don't think there's anything wrong with the wye, but code doesn't usually allow it.
Great job guys
thanks for this video! it's made me realize there's no way in hell i have the expertise or time to learn to do this, especially if I need to troubleshoot a situation that is out of the scope of my knowledge, so I'm just going to call a plumber.
Long Dao 3 minutes in, I decide "oh f*ck this..."
Come on, you can do it! It will take some thinking, but you'll be richer in both your bank account and your brain if you do it yourself.
Thanks
Why not drain the washer drain into the sink and have only one drain?
Tonythatsthename Pavicic you probably could. It looks better if you plumb it this way
It also stinks like hell if the hose is just running into the sink.
What if your socking somthing but want to run the washer
@@jacksplumbingvideos7147 it definitely doesn't keep the sink clean as someone who had that setup for 20 years all it creates is a place for lint to build up in the trap and clog stuff
Although the method used in the video is better
A simple $10 Home Depot pipe cutter and some shark bites work a lot quicker and easier and affordable
has any one thought why there is never air in the lines
Because they took a shower together earlier.
Weight needs to be at its most center position so it can actually work and pull hose back
Why do these pipes have to vent through the roof? Can't you just make them short and put an actual vacuum breaker on them?
Why not just put washer discharge into the sink?
What is the point of the traps with the pipe behind it going straight up, to my understanding, traps are meant to stop smells from the sewage, but that pipe above circumvents that, (Hah, circum-vents).
It is a vent it breaks the vacuum so the traps do not gurgle just as he sated in the video . The traps work as they are meant to the water in them keeps the gases out of the home.The vent vents the gases out of the home through the roof of the home and also break the vacuum that would be there if there was not a vent . It like holding your finger over a straw after you dip it into water a vacuum is created . Removing your finger breaks that vacuum .
Our local code states that you have to have the bigger waste load be first which in case is the washer drain then you can install a tee in above that one for the utility sink to allow for proper drainage and venting.
Forget this
This is what a garden hose and a 5 gallon bucket is for.
Thats my utility sink.
Needs more close-ups an explanation of the drain pipe connection
In general where I live people don’t have pvc pipe inside there house
full city water pressure
The double wye breaks the event. Fitting prohibited to use for this application. Inspection results from me: NOT APPROVED! Regards, an up to date Master Plumber.
Master here as well. I CRINGED so hard when he used double combos for VENTS! He created double s-traps. Millions of people watch this show too.... ugh. I don't know what's worse, him doing that or the hundreds of people here commenting on how awesome of a job he did. *Smacks head*
"What was the total cost of labor to complete?"
Shouldn’t Richard have anchored the water pipes to the wall? They’re just flopping in the breeze.
I wish they made slip couplings for emt im an electrician
Great video. They just didn’t demonstrate how to apply pvc primer and glue properly. That must be for another video.
Just here to hear all the "professionals" remind everyone how their 3rd grader could do better😂😅🤣😆😁👌
My third grader could've done it better...
I’m a trained and experienced mechanic, so I’m smart enough to know to hire a plumber to install my utility sink. 😂
Guess who learned about dry fitting the hard way 😂😂😂
What’s a utility sink?
A sink that pays your utility bill. Just watch the video he talks about that.
It's just a sink. The utility part of the name describes its appearance more than anything else.
What people use it for in laundry rooms is presoaking laundry before washing it. If you spill tomato sauce on your shirt you can rinse the majority of it off, scrub it with baking soda or vinegar or whatever stain preventative treatment.
They are also used in basements and garage simply to wash your hands after getting dirty. Rather than washing the motor oil on your hands into the kitchen or bathroom sink.
Frankenplumbing!
Roger was bummed...This job required no Plumber's Putty
don't get greedy, the imp did make an appearance
Should have just coated the pipe in purple primer, it would've looked nicer.
How come you never secured this sink to anything
laziness
Tilt back for full drainage or ???
Since the existing pipe was 1-1/2”, couldn’t he have just tied in the laundry tray and it would’ve been a wet vent?
MrCNRail 2” minimum on wet vents
You can't use a double wye fitting on the vertical like that. The vent ties in below the hydraulic gradient.
You'd either use a special fitting called a 'Figure 5', or a double sanitary tee. Using a wye like this cuts off the venting for each of the traps when they're in use.
A figure 5 is preferred, to avoid the washer throwing water over to the sink drain, since a sanitary cross (double tee) is straight across. The Figure 5 steeply drops the branches into the drain, and vents.
Here's a related tidbit... Toto toilets dump very quickly, so in their instructions, they call for correctly sized figure 5 fittings in a back-to-back installation.
Finally the comment that I was looking for.
Richard must have earned his degree from the University of Badass Plumbers.
Looking forward to the episode where he replaces the washer or dryer with that sink creating a choke point at the bottom of the stairs.
Easy squeezy lemon peasy! Oh so I thought!
Purple primer everywhere, apprentice marks on the fittings, rolling a street elbow out of a wye to a non-standard angle and dry-fitting joints are all really terrible habits that would be cause for immediate dismissal where I work, but I can look past all that because of the DIY nature of this program. However, as a professional plumber, I feel that it is important to point out to anyone using this video to attempt this on their own that using that double wye to tie drains into a vertical stack is not only bad practice, but is specifically prohibited by the International Plumbing Code, and would absolutely be cause for failure of a plumbing inspection. The only acceptable way to tie a drain arm into a stack, without defeating the vent is to use a sanitary tee, or in this situation, a cross tee. Furthermore, the washer stand pipe should be longer. I usually rough in a washer machine using a washer box with an integrated air gap, set at a height of 4', with the weir of the trap within 6 inches of the floor.
LOL it’s obvious Richard is a fitter who owns rental property. It’ll work.