Thanks,Good clear instructional video.I am about to fit these secondary levers to a Touring bike for better speed control rather than reaching for main levers all the time.I can also stay easier in the upright riding position on long rides.
Just installed these on my commuter road bike about couple weeks ago, it certainly makes uphill riding a lot more comfortable knowing I can stay on the top and brake in emergency situations! makes the bike a little bit uglier and heavier but totally worth it in cities like NYC.
You put out good videos but I have to offer one criticism on this one. It's very, very common to see people set these up and accidentally wind up with a bit of gap between the end of the housing from the main lever and the housing stop in the aux lever, which messes up the brake feel/power. So I think you probably should have included a clear warning about that. I find it's best to always make the very last step be to unclamp the lever, then reclamp it as you shove it firmly up against the housing end, ensuring good contact. This is especially important if you've had to mess with the tape or you're installing new tape at the same time, since the tightening of the tape around the brake housing will tend to pull the housing down towards the bar and out of the slot. Also I think you really should tell people they need to grind/file square the housing ends, inconvenient it may be when installing aux levers. In practice these levers conspire to add mushiness to the brake feel and everything you can do to fight back counts.
+Nate Knutson Very good suggestion. I've been starting with a slightly longer outer cable section and then nibbling bits off the end till it is very tight when flush against bars, and then wrap with tape. But your idea of loosening the lever and sliding it a few mm after the wrap is much simpler!
I just installed these and they work perfectly but it took me forever to figure out HOW they work. It seems like the cable is not being pulled at all, in fact, the lever is actually pushing toward the brake instead of pulling away from it. Whats really happening is the lever is opening up that small gap between the end of the cable housing and the start of the brake lever, thus creating a longer pathway for the cable to travel through, and therefore the cable pulls from its easiest end.
@Art's Cyclery I've seen people on the net saying that you can use these on their own (on Sheldon Brown's website for example). I've been searching for examples but I can hardly find any, and almost everyone who uses interruptor brake levers uses them in conjunction with drop levers. In addition to that, most people seem to use cantilever brakes or V-brakes which is completely alien to me as I've only ever seen road bikes with calliper brakes. So my questions are as follows: - Can you use interruptor brake levers on their own? - Can you use them with calliper brakes? - If they do work with calliper brakes, do they only work with modern double-pivot-point callipers or also with older style single-pivot callipers?
The cross top levers are designed to be ran with drop levers. It's very possible that you could modify them to work alone, but that is something that we do not have direct experience with. If you want flat bar mechanical levers, there are lots of options that are compatible with all types of rim brake calipers.These Avid FR-5s are a very affordable and functional option, www.artscyclery.com/Avid_FR-5_Brake_Levers_Pair/descpage-AVBLFR5.html
Great explanation. To save some weight, Would it be possible to use this kind of set up tweaked a little maybe to pull Both front and back brakes from one lever? I know you get double barrel brake levers but I think they don't look great.
I don't have cross bar brake leaver's 4 some reason, were i prefer them, not @ the front, it's a little difficult to brake hard wen needed & control the racer.
Where can I buy the silver covering the ends on the brake housing? 1:46 is where the video added one. Are they necessary, I think you called them housing barrels?
Housing Ferrules or end caps* are necessary to prevent your housing from fraying. These small parts are available at your local bike shop or online in bulk. If you give us a call next time you place an order, we can throw in a couple for ya at no charge!
+Courtney Singleton You'll first need to find out what size handlebar you have (31.8 or 25.4). Once you've done that, you can purchase the appropriate cross-top lever that will fit your bars and follow the instruction on the video. Good luck!
no mechanic here but i've got my eye on this Vilano jet.com/product/Vilano-Shadow-20-Road-Bike-Shimano-STI-Integrated-Shifters-GreyOrange-53cm/3c3df740753645c89c9dae34cade3709 and it does'nt look like canti brakes, i think there v. crane creek instructions say this -vid.artscyclery.com/pdf/Cane%20Creek/Cane%20Creek%20Cross%20Top%20User%20Manual.pdf basicaly no v's. but i'm not sure what i'm lookin at. maybe i'll ask Art's or someone more formally when i feel i can make some sense. i really need cross top because of a shoulder and other injuries that limit me.
Hello! Is possible to install these without the road brakes? I need some small inconspicuous brakes for a bike I'm building (riser bar and mountain bike brakes look a little too meaty) and these look perfect.
You all are missing 1 huge issue or warning ... these brakes contribute to end-over handlebars accidents that in many cases would not have happened. The greatest leverage point for keeping you on your bike is your hands on the hoods. This is fact not opinion. Science calls it the physics of leverage. I have raced for 25 years, have been riding for a total of 37 years and a retired SFFD fireman of 28 years. My experiences in my job, racing and riding with these brakes have been many more than the average person. I used them on my Track bike during winter training and on my Cycle Cross bikes for racing ... I respect them like a rifle or hand gun ... handle with caution and use wisely.
Your point is valid. But the new way of in-line levers' use these are not for high speed cycling on roads, specially for FIXIE/Track bikes. Just a few months ago, Hope and Shimano (GRX) released their hydraulic in-line brake system for Cyclocross and Gravelcross. If you had not been using drop bars and 33c tires while racing in sand, loose gravel, mud and very technical terrain, you may not understand the concept very well. But like you said, "use with caution", it's a fair warning.
why are you using your front brake??? lol. thats the ONLY reason there would be a "end over" the handlebar crash. if you just use the brakes properly and use the rear brake, then there is no issue whatsoever with cross levers for brakes.... just remember, you have to be smarter than the bike to ride it properly.
@@orion7741 The only way you can get pregnant is by leaving it in to long, just remember ... you have to be smarter than the "tool" to be able to use it properly ... sounds familiar to me.
I am trying to replace my drop bar handlebar to one that is a Schwinn flat bar. I have the dual brakes like the bike here, and the flat bar only has the one set of brakes with gears (not a huge deal b/c of bike differences). How would I replace the handlebars without damaging wires or ruining the connection to the brakes? Sorry if this is confusing I've just never replaced handlebars before!
If you are replacing your drop bars with flat bars, your brake/shift setup will likely be much different between them. Drop bar levers won't work on flat bars, so you'll need to purchase the appropriate pair of brake/shift levers for flat handlebars here: www.artscyclery.com/Mountain_Bike_Front__Rear_Shifters/catpage-MTBCOMPSH.html?crumb=MTMCOMP and then grab some new brake levers to fit on the flat bars. In order to not damage or ruin your cables and housing, you'll need to undo them from their cable stops and anchors.
+Art's Cyclery do I need to do all this even if the flat bar is just being transferred from one bike to another? It's just an old bike who's only part that's still intact is the handlebar.
Just make sure that the shifters on the new setup are designed to work with the same number of gears on your current setup. One thing to be cautious of is something called "pull ratio" on brake lever. Most flat handlebar brake levers utilize a different pull ratio than that of drop bar shifters and levers, meaning that your braking will be dramatically different, often much for the worse.
+GERGES HANY It is called the Cane Creek Cross Top. www.artscyclery.com/Cane_Creek_Cross_Top_318_Brake_Levers_Black/descpage-CCCTBL.html Thanks for watching!
Technically, yes you could mount them but the lack of hoods would make them less than ideal. You would be left with minimal places to place your hands while braking, so although it's possible, we wouldn't recommend.
Technically, yes. But the shape of your lever and bend of your bar will determine how functional that setup is. Ergonomics aside, the levers should mount up just fine.
Thanks,Good clear instructional video.I am about to fit these secondary levers to a Touring bike for better speed control rather than reaching for main levers all the time.I can also stay easier in the upright riding position on long rides.
Just installed these on my commuter road bike about couple weeks ago, it certainly makes uphill riding a lot more comfortable knowing I can stay on the top and brake in emergency situations! makes the bike a little bit uglier and heavier but totally worth it in cities like NYC.
You put out good videos but I have to offer one criticism on this one. It's very, very common to see people set these up and accidentally wind up with a bit of gap between the end of the housing from the main lever and the housing stop in the aux lever, which messes up the brake feel/power. So I think you probably should have included a clear warning about that. I find it's best to always make the very last step be to unclamp the lever, then reclamp it as you shove it firmly up against the housing end, ensuring good contact. This is especially important if you've had to mess with the tape or you're installing new tape at the same time, since the tightening of the tape around the brake housing will tend to pull the housing down towards the bar and out of the slot. Also I think you really should tell people they need to grind/file square the housing ends, inconvenient it may be when installing aux levers. In practice these levers conspire to add mushiness to the brake feel and everything you can do to fight back counts.
+Nate Knutson Very good suggestion. I've been starting with a slightly longer outer cable section and then nibbling bits off the end till it is very tight when flush against bars, and then wrap with tape. But your idea of loosening the lever and sliding it a few mm after the wrap is much simpler!
This is a 6 year old comment (as of 2022) that might've just saved me in the future. 🙏 Thanks
I just installed these and they work perfectly but it took me forever to figure out HOW they work. It seems like the cable is not being pulled at all, in fact, the lever is actually pushing toward the brake instead of pulling away from it. Whats really happening is the lever is opening up that small gap between the end of the cable housing and the start of the brake lever, thus creating a longer pathway for the cable to travel through, and therefore the cable pulls from its easiest end.
JUST THE SET UP I NEEDED
.. THANKS
Old but excellent video. Thanks
@Art's Cyclery I've seen people on the net saying that you can use these on their own (on Sheldon Brown's website for example). I've been searching for examples but I can hardly find any, and almost everyone who uses interruptor brake levers uses them in conjunction with drop levers. In addition to that, most people seem to use cantilever brakes or V-brakes which is completely alien to me as I've only ever seen road bikes with calliper brakes. So my questions are as follows:
- Can you use interruptor brake levers on their own?
- Can you use them with calliper brakes?
- If they do work with calliper brakes, do they only work with modern double-pivot-point callipers or also with older style single-pivot callipers?
The cross top levers are designed to be ran with drop levers. It's very possible that you could modify them to work alone, but that is something that we do not have direct experience with. If you want flat bar mechanical levers, there are lots of options that are compatible with all types of rim brake calipers.These Avid FR-5s are a very affordable and functional option, www.artscyclery.com/Avid_FR-5_Brake_Levers_Pair/descpage-AVBLFR5.html
Great explanation. To save some weight, Would it be possible to use this kind of set up tweaked a little maybe to pull Both front and back brakes from one lever? I know you get double barrel brake levers but I think they don't look great.
Wow good idea for gravel on long rides
Is it possible to add these secondary brakes on the top of the bars if I already have hydraulic disc rather than caliper type brakes
How much do bike shops charge to install these?
Great stuff. I've just tried this and got a frayed cable. What does a new cable have that prevents more fraying? Is it infused with solder, perhaps?
I have the Cross top brakes on my bike. And my drop brakes are very weak. How do I fix that? I can't figure it out
it says on the box (...caliper/ canti brakes) I am a little confused
I don't have cross bar brake leaver's 4 some reason, were i prefer them, not @ the front, it's a little difficult to brake hard wen needed & control the racer.
These work with v brakes??
This works with a v brake?
Where can I buy the silver covering the ends on the brake housing? 1:46 is where the video added one. Are they necessary, I think you called them housing barrels?
Housing Ferrules or end caps* are necessary to prevent your housing from fraying. These small parts are available at your local bike shop or online in bulk. If you give us a call next time you place an order, we can throw in a couple for ya at no charge!
Thank you very much for the video
You are welcome
would these cross top brake levers fit a vilano shimano bike? I have no idea how to find out what size or which ones I should get.
+Courtney Singleton You'll first need to find out what size handlebar you have (31.8 or 25.4). Once you've done that, you can purchase the appropriate cross-top lever that will fit your bars and follow the instruction on the video. Good luck!
no mechanic here but i've got my eye on this Vilano jet.com/product/Vilano-Shadow-20-Road-Bike-Shimano-STI-Integrated-Shifters-GreyOrange-53cm/3c3df740753645c89c9dae34cade3709 and it does'nt look like canti brakes, i think there v. crane creek instructions say this -vid.artscyclery.com/pdf/Cane%20Creek/Cane%20Creek%20Cross%20Top%20User%20Manual.pdf basicaly no v's. but i'm not sure what i'm lookin at. maybe i'll ask Art's or someone more formally when i feel i can make some sense. i really need cross top because of a shoulder and other injuries that limit me.
Thanks for that.
can we use these with mechanical disc brakes? thanks.
Sure! Same steps apply
Hello! Is possible to install these without the road brakes? I need some small inconspicuous brakes for a bike I'm building (riser bar and mountain bike brakes look a little too meaty) and these look perfect.
Sen Flores These brakes will not work without the road brakes unfortunately.
Thanks for watching!
You all are missing 1 huge issue or warning ... these brakes contribute to end-over handlebars accidents that in many cases would not have happened. The greatest leverage point for keeping you on your bike is your hands on the hoods. This is fact not opinion. Science calls it the physics of leverage. I have raced for 25 years, have been riding for a total of 37 years and a retired SFFD fireman of 28 years. My experiences in my job, racing and riding with these brakes have been many more than the average person. I used them on my Track bike during winter training and on my Cycle Cross bikes for racing ... I respect them like a rifle or hand gun ... handle with caution and use wisely.
Your point is valid. But the new way of in-line levers' use these are not for high speed cycling on roads, specially for FIXIE/Track bikes. Just a few months ago, Hope and Shimano (GRX) released their hydraulic in-line brake system for Cyclocross and Gravelcross. If you had not been using drop bars and 33c tires while racing in sand, loose gravel, mud and very technical terrain, you may not understand the concept very well.
But like you said, "use with caution", it's a fair warning.
why are you using your front brake??? lol. thats the ONLY reason there would be a "end over" the handlebar crash. if you just use the brakes properly and use the rear brake, then there is no issue whatsoever with cross levers for brakes.... just remember, you have to be smarter than the bike to ride it properly.
@@orion7741 The only way you can get pregnant is by leaving it in to long, just remember ... you have to be smarter than the "tool" to be able to use it properly ... sounds familiar to me.
can a cross lever be used as stand alone?
Yes! I use then on my single speed!
This channel's answer is "NO", because the manufacturer says so; but based on experience, I say "yes".
so only cantilever brakes?
or also regular caliper road bike brakes
How do you install cross top brake levers on hydraulic brakes. I don't think there is any way to do it.
+Jj Ja Unfortunately you can't use the cross top levers with a hydraulic brakes. Thanks for watching!
I am trying to replace my drop bar handlebar to one that is a Schwinn flat bar. I have the dual brakes like the bike here, and the flat bar only has the one set of brakes with gears (not a huge deal b/c of bike differences). How would I replace the handlebars without damaging wires or ruining the connection to the brakes? Sorry if this is confusing I've just never replaced handlebars before!
If you are replacing your drop bars with flat bars, your brake/shift setup will likely be much different between them. Drop bar levers won't work on flat bars, so you'll need to purchase the appropriate pair of brake/shift levers for flat handlebars here: www.artscyclery.com/Mountain_Bike_Front__Rear_Shifters/catpage-MTBCOMPSH.html?crumb=MTMCOMP and then grab some new brake levers to fit on the flat bars.
In order to not damage or ruin your cables and housing, you'll need to undo them from their cable stops and anchors.
+Art's Cyclery do I need to do all this even if the flat bar is just being transferred from one bike to another? It's just an old bike who's only part that's still intact is the handlebar.
Does the flat bar already have brakes and shifters?
+Art's Cyclery Yes
Just make sure that the shifters on the new setup are designed to work with the same number of gears on your current setup. One thing to be cautious of is something called "pull ratio" on brake lever. Most flat handlebar brake levers utilize a different pull ratio than that of drop bar shifters and levers, meaning that your braking will be dramatically different, often much for the worse.
How to remove it?
I need *Cross top levers* in my life
What is the name of this type of brake lever?
Thanks
+GERGES HANY It is called the Cane Creek Cross Top. www.artscyclery.com/Cane_Creek_Cross_Top_318_Brake_Levers_Black/descpage-CCCTBL.html
Thanks for watching!
Art's Cyclery thanks very much
If I buy a fixie with breaks, can I take it off?
You can but for safety reasons, we don't recommend it.
can you put bullhorn brakes on drop bars?
Technically, yes you could mount them but the lack of hoods would make them less than ideal. You would be left with minimal places to place your hands while braking, so although it's possible, we wouldn't recommend.
But i want to install it on the end of the dropbar. Sooo... Can i?
Technically, yes. But the shape of your lever and bend of your bar will determine how functional that setup is. Ergonomics aside, the levers should mount up just fine.
Ok. Thank you alot
What about installing the double lever brakes... pointless
You don`t show the mechanical aspect of this device. Utterly useless to me trying to figure out if i can use this brake or not.
Too much video on you instead of the brake