Quick question about the stock lighting board, is there any way to disconnect the rails to every LED instead of desoldering each individual one? I'm wondering if it's possible to disconnect U2 or D1 to cut power to all of them in one go, which would be a much easier mod both to execute and to reverse.
You still need U2 to provide the voltage regulation and D1 is in parallel so that won't help either. The onboard LEDs , at least for my unit, were truly awful so while it tool me time to get there, their removal addressed the stay alive time issue, got rid of any bleed issues from them, and also created a flat surface for the new LED strip to sit on. Much the same as yourself, I was thinking of what I would do if selling on. In doing the 2nd video on this, my conclusion was I would never be going back and if selling on I would make potential buyers aware of the enhancement and how it was much better than the old lighting - a positive selling point! Removing them is a bit of a pain but 10 mins for each board should do it.
@@EuviRail Oh, that's interesting - I wonder if in that case it would be possible to lift the output leg of U2 and connect the regulated voltage to the replacement LED strip. I had another look at the video and managed to read that the part was an HT7533, so lifting the pin closest to the U2 text should disconnect the existing LEDs and connecting the new strip to it would be fairly simple. If it works electrically how I think it would then it would be both easier to execute and easier to revert, so long as you're comfortable with soldering to small pads. I definitely agree with your assessment though, regardless of the execution this is enough of an upgrade that it would definitely be a positive selling point were you to sell it on!
The lighting does not appear to be red on my, "Celebrating Scotland" Azuma. ua-cam.com/video/KPLk3kVRhWc/v-deo.htmlsi=71zBmx_FIJtjCnUB&t=98 Your improvements make the interior much more visible - but it's a lot of trouble to go to! I think the light bleed might be better counteracted with a metallic paint covered over with a white paint. I think you would have to mask off and spray with a metallic silver car paint, but that's a lot of trouble to go to! Well, that's another video to make. Thanks for uploading.
Thanks for sharing. That's good if they are using a more prototypical colour LED. The "reddish" LEDs were also low efficiency which limited the stay alive time. I wonder did they fix the light bleed on the "Celebrating Scotland" set?
Here is the Amazon link: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09JP3JNXQ. You get two reels in the box. One reel will do a 5-car Azuma. You''ll need the second reel for a 9-car configuration.
Quick question about the stock lighting board, is there any way to disconnect the rails to every LED instead of desoldering each individual one?
I'm wondering if it's possible to disconnect U2 or D1 to cut power to all of them in one go, which would be a much easier mod both to execute and to reverse.
You still need U2 to provide the voltage regulation and D1 is in parallel so that won't help either. The onboard LEDs , at least for my unit, were truly awful so while it tool me time to get there, their removal addressed the stay alive time issue, got rid of any bleed issues from them, and also created a flat surface for the new LED strip to sit on. Much the same as yourself, I was thinking of what I would do if selling on. In doing the 2nd video on this, my conclusion was I would never be going back and if selling on I would make potential buyers aware of the enhancement and how it was much better than the old lighting - a positive selling point! Removing them is a bit of a pain but 10 mins for each board should do it.
@@EuviRail Oh, that's interesting - I wonder if in that case it would be possible to lift the output leg of U2 and connect the regulated voltage to the replacement LED strip. I had another look at the video and managed to read that the part was an HT7533, so lifting the pin closest to the U2 text should disconnect the existing LEDs and connecting the new strip to it would be fairly simple. If it works electrically how I think it would then it would be both easier to execute and easier to revert, so long as you're comfortable with soldering to small pads.
I definitely agree with your assessment though, regardless of the execution this is enough of an upgrade that it would definitely be a positive selling point were you to sell it on!
The lighting does not appear to be red on my, "Celebrating Scotland" Azuma.
ua-cam.com/video/KPLk3kVRhWc/v-deo.htmlsi=71zBmx_FIJtjCnUB&t=98
Your improvements make the interior much more visible - but it's a lot of trouble to go to! I think the light bleed might be better counteracted with a metallic paint covered over with a white paint. I think you would have to mask off and spray with a metallic silver car paint, but that's a lot of trouble to go to! Well, that's another video to make. Thanks for uploading.
Thanks for sharing. That's good if they are using a more prototypical colour LED. The "reddish" LEDs were also low efficiency which limited the stay alive time. I wonder did they fix the light bleed on the "Celebrating Scotland" set?
is there a link to those LEDs?
Here is the Amazon link: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09JP3JNXQ. You get two reels in the box. One reel will do a 5-car Azuma. You''ll need the second reel for a 9-car configuration.