How To Build a Model Railroad Part 3. Wiring, DCC, Fascia, Ballast
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- www.djstrains.com
www.djstrains.com
ABOUT THIS VIDEO: This video covers info about: Wiring, DCC, Fascia & Ballast
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🕺🏻ABOUT DJ: DJ is a locomotive engineer for CSX Railroad since 1999. He has built dozens of layouts, gave presentations for model railroaders, is a UA-camr, licensed drone pilot, and a great father.
I'm willing to admit that yes DCC is king. It is the accepted standard. For now. But as battery technology gets better and better eventually one of the manufacturers will jump in with a dead rail system. This is the future of model rail road control. The place I think this will enter the market place is probably in the simple starter sets with a loop of track, an engine and a few cars. A charging cable and adaptor for the engine. For the throttle all you will need is a Bluetooth capable device that you run a throttle app on. No more wiring to worry about. No more powered frogs. No more headaches over reversing loops. If they can sell little remote control toy helicopters a model railroading application is easy. Yes I know there people doing this. Either as a hobby or offering conversion systems. Think of it for seldom used branch lines with rusty rail. Now if Kato, Bachman or somebody would just take the plunge.
Even there are multiple operating systems to control the different manufacturers equipment you could run the equipment any where. On any layout, no matter if its block control, dcc or a simple switching layout with a transformer.
I will now get off of my soap box.
Nice video by the way. As always.
I ballast a little differently, but never could understand the people who hate ballasting, it's so easy.
I agree. Those ballast haters have "ballastphobia" which is the unreasonable fear of ballasting...Harold
You can use a drop of dish soap instead of alcohol.
true. "Wet water" works just as well.
Would highly recommend soldering your connections to your bus.
okee dokey
Or avoid soldering under the layout by using suitcase connectors...Harold
Looks nice. But when wetting and gluing the ballast it is enough if you add the liquid just outside the rails. The capillary force will move the water all the way through the ballasted area. That way you wont disturb the ballast. Thanks !
Thanks for the tips!
this series is really helping with my layout :)
Good to hear, thats my goal. I started filming the next video today.
Good video, I suggest that use feeder wires the same colors as the buss wires, it saves time if you are trouble shooting a problem a couple of years from now.
I have black and white bus wires and blue and white feeders for now. I am trying to use what I have left over rather than buy new stuff when possible. I'll be looking out for the black wires for feeders when at hobby store. I had one layout years ago, DC, which was like a bowl of spaghetti. Never again, lol.
@@djstrains I think we all have been to the spaghetti bowl. That's why keeping the same colors helps.
Great video didn’t realise how easy DCC is to setup
Thats what held me back for so long.
Great content as always. Well done DJ.
Glad you enjoy it!
That ballast looked spot on DJ! Thanks for the tips! - Jason
Looks sooo simple. Thanks. A couple of comments. When connecting feeders, do it with the DCC power ON. Yes ON. Your DCC system will immediately tell you if you create a short. Much better than adding all feeders and then turning the power on only to discover that there is a short somewhere. I'm not a fan of soldering under the layout so I connect my feeders using insulation displacement (suitcase) connectors. Never had one fail. But, they come in different sizes so choose the size that fits your wires....Harold
In terms of HO scale what I think would be really cool is being able to use Herzog ballast hoppers to move the ballast along the tracks
haha that would be wild
Thanks for video. Instead of plain water, I use 50% water/alcohol. It makes the glue mixture sink in and dry faster. This is just suggestion. There are many different ways of making scenery glue. A check with a search engine will give more than enough. Take care
Thanks for the refresher D.J., always enjoy 😊 watching. Stay safe buddy. 😎👍👍👍🛤🚂
Thanks, you too!
70% water 29% glue 1% dish soap. Ballast down.
@Joe Madej Not a prob, splash a little in the mix, a little less water & you'll be right.
Nice video and series. The Bob Ross of N scale!
DJ I always learn something new. I have been good at ballasting that is yet another reason for me to use KATO Unitrak. Still, when I did try I always had a mess. I like your technique, but as you indicated, it takes patience. I use Digitrax and not NCE. I was told that NCE would limit my DCC experience so I just never tried it. Live and learn. Thanks for the video, I look forward to the next update.
Used to do N, but eyes let me down even with magnifiers. But, this is good stuff for all scales, including O. Thanks, DJ,
This is a really helpful video:)
Glad it was helpful!
Oh yeah I thought that till the next day it looks good.
great video. keep 'em coming
More to come!
Another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow i never knew DCC was that "easy" ( im sure i will find a way to screw it up lol) i use Scenic cement for ballast ALL WAYS THE EYE DROPPER and NEVER the the spray bottle those two YN2 SD40-2s in Riverton my friend saw them on a WB Freight in Coraopolis with a Genesee and Wyoming painted loco most likely dead in tow my guess is there heading to LTEX in ohio Thanks for the great video! I will send you pictures of that ho scale railway museum i finished on Instagram
DCC is awesome
NO DOUBT!!!
Thanks for the tips DJ. Just a precautionary note, when cutting that hardboard for fascia, use a mask or cut outside, that dust from the hardboard off a jigsaw or saber saw is not good for your lungs. Some lumber stores will not cut that hardboard because of that dust. If you can, just scribe the hardboard with a new sharp utility knife and snap it, just needs a little file work to smooth edges, again use a mask. Thanks.
At last! A REAL use for a COVID mask!
@@KutWrite....LOL how true😀
Thanks
I'll bet it's fun working a train with you.
Sorry we missed one another on the CSX (I started in 1998).
I am one of the few guys who'd rather talk about anything but work while at work. I ask my conductors about movies, their kids, women, music, and hobbies, etc. Some guys are great to work with, a few have no personalities. I take the job seriously, but not myself.
@@djstrains: That's why I'd have loved runnin' trains with you.
Great explanations. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Videos are awesome with drone. Want to do steel mill layout on 4x8 for starters. Out here in kansas...1 hobby shop.... is it easier to find certain cars in train shops around Pittsburgh. I'm from the Mingo junction Ohio area.
Nice
Thanks
Now that you have sound you will probably want to wire all of your tracks to be live at all times. Power routing is nice for DC, but when you have DCC with sound you will have the loco do its startup sounds every time you turn the track power on.
Ballasting is messy but its usually hard to mess up!
You do some cool stuff!😊
Thank you! 😊
Another great video! Thank you for your effort to the community. I noticed that where you plugged in the DCC unit there was a second, is that for another controller?
That is correct
Please,please make better connections. Either solder or "suitcase" connectors. I have maybe 200 on my layout and they are easy and final however if you need to disconnect you can. Believe me it will catch up to you later.
Good video.
Thanks for the tips!
Nice how to!
Thanks!
"This track is a dummy track. It represents Norfolk Southern." Oof. Somebody call the fire depart that was a bad burn lmao.
D.J. - Looking at the video at the end of Part 3, the mainline track and ties look a red-ish brown, sort of rusty and unused, while the siding and run around tracks look gray/silver. I thought it would be just the opposite, and that the sidings would be rusty and more red-ish brown than the mainline that is used more often - why is that in this particular video?
good observation. The newer ties will be more black from creosote and rich in color, while the old ones fade to grayish.
Great! 👍👍😎
Thanks for the visit
Great videos! I'm just getting started bringing my Dad's old Lionel set back to life (2037 engine and some cars). What gauge wire did you use for the feeders and mains?
You'd be better off googling the best answer for Lionel, since I use N gauge which uses less electricity.
So the "dummy" track is NS? Spoken like a true CSX guy! 😂
Hi, dj. I need you to talk me into going to dcc. I get buying a controller for around $200.00 dollars or so. But other than that I need to know a cost for starting out. Like decoders, those power outlets on the fascia. I will be using mostly older engines that I find on ebay or train shows. The price of new ones especially dcc equipped are more than I want to spend. So a basic start up cost would be appreciated, thank you dj. I really enjoy your videos, especially starting over with the basics, that never gets old. Also I'm looking into sharing videos on UA-cam in the future. Any suggestions on getting started and topics. Or just show a weekly update? You seem very comfortable making your videos. I like that it looks like you are being yourself and that's good. Anyway sorry writing so much, just trying to be thorough in my questions. From Jeff.
basic start up is under $200. When making videos, plan, get to the point, keep camera still. Start today.
Don't skimp scale trains are awesome at around $230.00 for n scale. My Kato engines cost $100.00 plus decoder at $45.00 no sound and detail is not as good as scale trains. Also I have Broadway Limited AC 6000 and hard to program. I have 4 and only 1 works easy. Scale trains well worth the money.
This is not about your layout but since you are an engineer I am asking. I want to install signals at a location where a siding comes off a double main line. Should I use a bridge signal setup, cantilever or just pole style that stands to the side of the track. I don’t understand how signals work at all. Would I need the same setup at the other end as well. The layout is set in today’s time and is all modern power and rolling stock in CSX and Norfolk Southern mainly.
Lets say that we are going north on your main. The switch is a facing point, going off to the right.
You technically need a signal if it is a switch powered by the dispatcher (NOT HAND THROWN BY CONDUCTOR).
The dispatcher lines the track to the siding, and the signal indicates that the switch is lined to the siding. Now, you need a signal which faces south, to protect southbound trains from running through that switch. (This is if trains can operate in both directions on your main lines). Now, you also need a signal from the siding to the main. This signal protects a train that went into the siding from coming back to the main with the switch lined main to main. So Technically you need 3 signals if you have a powered switch. But wait, there is more. On your mains you need a signal about 2 miles prior to the switch to let trains know what to expect up ahead. Last thing we want is to be doing 50 mph with a 18,000 ton coal train and not know that there is a red signal up ahead, or that we are lined for the 10 mph siding! See this video for industries 1 & 2 which have spurs come off the main at an interlocking. ua-cam.com/video/40beS63tqBc/v-deo.html
Hey DJ!!! Great video's, as always. Since you travel far and wide, I have a question. At the Galesburg, IL yard entrances, the are signs on the signal mast's, that say, "PLANT A", AND "PLANT B".
What do these signs mean? I have seen them other places, but, no one seems to know what they stand for.
Thanks, DJ!!!
Taz...
no idea, never seen that
wait, on the signal masts, ok, so an interlocking is sometimes called a "plant". There must be 2 interlocking close to each other.
@@djstrains INDEED, THAT IS TRUE! tHEY SEEM TO BE ON A CANTILEVER, AND A SINGLE MAST, OPPOSITE OF EACH OTHER. THAT must BE THE CASE. i HAD THOUGHT SO, BUT, WONDERED WHY IT SAID "plant a" AND THE OTHER plant b"Shoot, caps was stuck... So if you go to the Virtual Rail Fan channel, find the Galesburg camera, you will find them when they show a consist going by. I will try to get some screen shots and send them to you.
Good stuff brother
Appreciate it
Add a few drops of dish soap to your glue mixture to help it penetrate, or more alcohol.
Good day . I like your show it is useful, I like to know from your experience what type turnout of PECO System I can use it in my layout #13 from ATLAS Book # 11 p# 20. It has 5 turnout # 4 by ATLAS Cod 100, 3 L.H, and 2 R.H by using the DCC System. Since there 2 type of PECO Turnout one is Elecrofrog, and Insulfrog. Best regards to you for your time.
I prefer insulfrog personally. Less wiring, in my opinion.
@@djstrains Thank you for your support to my request
do you ever use rerailers?
sometimes, when my eyes can't seem to focus on the n scale wheels
Is there a preferred gauge size for the DCC BUS line that works the best?
waiting for input from readers. I think it is based on your scale and voltage you will be pulling.
@@djstrains I did my research on this which I will post here for anyone else down the road curious to these details. The DCC bus line should be 12 or 14 gauge common residential wiring. Personally I think 14 would be perfect. The feeders should be 18 - 24 gauge wiring but again I think 18 would be ideal. The feeder drops are a matter of preference from every 2 feet, 4 feet and 6 feet. I think 2 feet is overkill and even 4 feet is pushing it. However, I think every 5 feet is a good number for feeders. Addition feeders can always be added fairly easily at any time if power becomes weak on a section for whatever reason. Also, feeders should be added right before a switch and right after a switch. Good results should be achieved by this formula. Thanks DJ. 👍
What size of ballast do you use for your N scale track?
fine. It seems to be the best for N Scale
surface tension
LOL,dummy track represents the NS
Ballasting... Yuck. Not hard just time consuming.
100% agree