Junkyard Built Briggs Engine Problems! Vintage Mini Bike Build
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- We restored a vintage mini bike last month, and we installed our home-built Briggs and Stratton 5 horsepower flathead engine on the mini bike. A cam, bigger carburetor, racing head, stiffer valve springs, a 3 horsepower flywheel and more were used to build the engine from all used parts, and now that the vintage bike is finished, we're having mystery engine problems.
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And the Hip bone is connected to the Thigh bone . When I was young a 5 hp was the boss we had a big dirt field behind our school it had humps,bumps and a couple small jumps and when it rained that was a whole different experience just Fun Fun FUN !!! Try riding like that on school property now days their were six of us full time riders we cut lawns ,washed and waxed cars ,pulled weeds collect bottles and anything job we could to buy gas and parts ,I remember having to buy a few cables , no helmets or safety gear just sun glasses and a backwards ball cap those were the days .
Tank Soldier Awesome!! I’m jealous!
Bad Rad ,it was a blast ,wish l could do it all over again .
@@tanksoldier9770 We do the same thing around our farm
Joel Boley Hey there I see your Massey Harris sign I have an MH 22 great tractor right now it's not running it sat to long and it won't turnover and needs new tires ,and I have an old MH swather with wood spokes on the 10 ft header with drapers and lots of belts that was my first swather and l sold my pto MH bailer a while back it made nice 85 lbs bails ,I went to NH bailers 2 and 3 wire bailers 100lbs on the 2 wire and up to140 lbs on 4 th crop alfalfa with the 3 wire also I have a NH 2 twine and a JD 2 wire bailer , nothing beats a farm and ranch life !! Thanks TANK
@@tanksoldier9770 Massey Harris made good machinery back in the day.... We have a MH 444, three MH 30's two of which run and one that the engine is stuck, two MH 44's, and a MH 44 special. Good ol rake and baler tractors..... We do mostly hay and cattle farming. Wouldn't trade farm life!!!!
Fuel delivery.
Bowl is emptying faster than it fills up.
That's my guess.
i agree 100%
Needs a fuel pump to fix that
I'd have to agree. The thing is suckin the bowl dry over and over again. They should put the old flywheel back on too. Seems like the heavier flywheel is being accelerated with enough force to sheer the keys constantly.
@@anythingthatmoves9609 Could also drill the bowl filler inlet out just slightly. I have done it with some success on chinese scoots.
@@izzyplusplusplus1004 where exactly do you drill? The outside of the carb where the gas enters, or the inside seat? Just curious haven't thought about trying it.
The following video features activities performed in controlled environments by knowledgeable persons. DO NOT attempt to duplicate, re-create, or perform the same or similar activities at home, as personal injury or property damage may result. CARS AND CAMERAS, the persons shown in this video and ANY CONTRIBUTOR, ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY such injury or damage. ALL CARSANDCAMERAS CONTENT IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY.
Love old flatheads ;) Your problem with the flywheel is easy. The key wont hold the flywheel, its just for easy timing. The crank is tapered and the wheel is fasten on the taper. The taper can have bad fit to the flywheel and then you need to take some valve grinding paste and grind the flywheel to the crank. You will see at the surface when you have grind enough. :)
The best thing with mondays and wednesdays is carsandcameras! :)
( Peter Hellberg
Peter Hellberg) is correct, you have lost the taper fit with the flywheel. It will never stay tight. Seen it plenty.
Correct Peter, this is what they need to do.
I have a b&s I believe a 1966 power craft 2HP that this gave me nice pointers Thank you 🙏🏼 please film more #Briggs&Statton videos!!!!!
I've worked professionally in my own small engine repair business for over 35 years and i can say without a doubt that the flywheel must be installed with an impact with the special tool or tighten it much more with the hammer than what I've witnessed you do. Also the starter clutch has been a problem on briggs engines. the trick is to polish the part of the crankshaft that inserts into the clutch, put a drop of oil on the fabric wick in the bottom of the hole on the clutch and clean the channels for the ball bearing in the housing. They can stick in the "sling out position". Also there is no rev limiter. The jetting may be too rich..........that's what it sounded like to me or possibly valve float.
Ike is so chill. I'd like to hang out with him. Would be good for my anxiety to be around someone so relaxed.
Ya
Ike is like that neighborhood dad that was so cool he made the other dad's look lame
i think the coolest thing about UA-cam is that i have been able to watch you guys go from being one of the few vids on about minibikes and modding them to being a growing industry. And to see it be able to support your hobby, and friends you have made.. truly inspiring. From a guy you never met, on the other side of the U.S., keep up the good work.
The starter clutch/ratchet is a serviceable part. Use a bladed screwdriver and pop the black rubberized cap off, there will be 6 steel ball bearings inside put those aside and lift the ratchet out. use a piece of wire and push the felt dust cap out of the ratchet and clean the inside with degreaser and emery paper if needed and put the dust cap back in. give everything a good clean with degreaser and reassemble the clutch taking care to be clean. Before mounting it back on the crank use a piece of fine emery paper to clean up the crankshaft. It is debated in the industry whether you grease or leave the clutch dry, I personally run them dry as brand new OEM parts come dry.
I away put grease on mine.
Grease of any kind impairs it from working properly. Mabe a light oil.
If the ratchet assembly is dragging you may have a bur on the crankshaft end. Try polishing the shaft stem. Or if you hit it with a hammer it's mushrooomed....
I put a tiny little bit of oil on the shaft itself. Nothing in the ratcheting mechanism for reasons stated.
the concept inside the clutch is to let the balls move freely and the centrifugal force in running engine keep this balls away from the ratchets , putting oil will reduce this movement and with sum dirt that will be a good way to loose the clutch and the pully and in sum case the crankshaft.
You gotta tighten the hell out of the starter clutch, I give mine 5 good whacks with a hammer and punch.
They need to get the socket for the starter clutch so they can hit it with a impact
I'll keep that in mind
The Mad Smith 75 ft lbs
Lap the tapers together first...
dissasemble the carbeurator and stick it in a untrasonic cleaner... it works wonders dude
Desaint Mustie1 Would be proud of you
Desaint How much does it cost.
300zxdriver, about nothing! ultrasonic cleaners can sometimes be found at a thrift store, or you can make one pretty easy with a very high RPM little DC motor and small weight (basic vibrator), firmly attached to the bottom of a metal coffee can a little offset from center.
cleaning solution? for metal parts use kerosene and squeeze/mix half tube of cheap ultrabright toothpaste into it. give it rubber legs, or a handle to hang from a stand on a light spring (better). throw stuff in and let it run overnight. they're really THAT simple a device to make and use.
"ultrasonic" just means the vibration is faster than 20khz, but it doesn't have to be, a 25-30,000 RPM motor can do the job too.
@@300zxdriver harbor freight sells them for about $80
John and ike, that starter clutch has to be super tight! You have to hold the flywheel with a strap or a bar on the find, then tighten the clutch ad tight as you can get it. As I have a small engine shop, I have the flywheel holder and wrench for the clutch, and a cup wrench I can use a impact to tighten the clutch. That cast iron flywheel has a lot of mass that the clutch had to retain. Also be sure to have the steel cup washer on there also.
Yup and the washer has to be the right way. I wouldnt use an impact itll snap the crank but the surfaces also have to be smooth and clean no burs or grease! Lap it with compound if you have to antiseize works in a pinch. Iv ran them without keys no problem its really just there to position it.
I am 525th view and I stayed up all night waiting
If you're shearing keys left and right, that means the flywheel's and crank's tapers are not mating and locking together properly. You need to get some valve lapping compound and lap the 2 together. The key doesnt do anything to hold the flywheel in place, it is ONLY for alignment for timing. You need good mating tapers. And, get yourselves a piston stop that screws into the spark plug hole so you can torque that nut properly.
brandon2076 yep key just sets the timing. Tapers hold it all together from spinning
Finally someone who knows what theyre talking about.
@@jeep2003 it's a common misconception in the world of small motors! Lol
Steel key and more fuel .. She seems to be starving out at speed .. JUST MY TAKE !! .. ENJOYED .. Thanks guys
4:49 hmm what do we have here in the background??
Yay! Golf cart build!
I love the vintage mini bike pls more vids on the mini bike
This video was awesome to watch! It just goes to show how easy C&C can overcome so many obstacles. I like learning from you guys! It might have taken all day but you guys have a sweet running mini bike now!
hey guys love the channel and have been subscribed for years. wouldnt change a thing guys except maybe equalize the volume please
Can you guy show some clean up effort after the flooding y'all had. Is it back to normal??
Just plain assume guys. Sure wish you could find the new parts to build the ultimate 5HP Briggs engine....
U should do a goped build. They are sweet and more practical for teens with a tight budget.
Hey check out our channel, we have a build video and riding of my goped sport that I built and we'd appreciate the support!
Who cares about practical? They're boring af... I don't think the channel is based on, "getting to the campus library in a pinch, and on a budget"...
The great words of Ike "Something happened, Something happened" lol keep up the great work guys
& don't need to mill the head : reface it on some wet & dry sand paper laid flat on a piece of glass
Trev New Zealand
Old School again!
try to get an go kart road legal with license plates!!!
You would need headlights, taillights, brake lights, blinkers, then emissions and I'm sure there's 100s of requirements I'm clueless to. Might as well buy a car
not on the east coast...here in AZ you need headlight, tail light with brake and a horn...everything else is optional like windshield, fenders, blinkers
what I remember, problem one is they're too short to be easily seen by people driving regular vehicles. problem two is lack of solid bumpers 14-18" off the ground. lots of places allow golf carts, some places no registration needed, but all the lights ARE required to run them on low speed limit streets (25 mph or less).
It can be done. My dad has a trike he put together, powered by a Predator 212. Tagged in MD as a moped.
@@2v_media headlight height etc
You guys are making me want to get another old Briggs and Stratton Mini bike. I had a bunch of old go carts from the 70s and sold them but Im going to find one of these and buy it.
Have you tried lapping the crankshaft flywheel seat? Seams like it’s all goobered up and may be why you keep shearing keys.
Dude you gotta RESPECT the Briggs buddy.. LOL 🤘
Lap the flywheel onto the crank shaft with valve grinding compound and clean it well, you may not have any more issues with the flywheel coming loose.
Me, I would have taken the Bearing Recoil Starter apart...
Let me say, it's INTERESTING!
Sweet bike. Looks a lil rich lol (black smoke)
That's my one complaint about these guys. They leave hp on the table because they just drill out the jet and guess I'm sure ike has gotten good at it but they need a jet kit for their mikunis and stock carbs. And if I had the money I'd get a air fuel tester to tune
@@travis4798 nope unburned fuel. 1st of all Oil is blue when it burns coolant is white fuel is black... 2nd flat heads valves at upside down meaning the oil would have to go upwards past the valve seal and eek by the valve stem but this would also never happen because the breather is the "valve cover" so all the direction of flow is out the breather not up past the valves and into the the combustion chamber and it would have to be such a significant amount that it creates visible smoke.. sorry not buying it if u said the oil gets past the rings I might agree with ya Briggs are famous for burning oil and running for a good while and its usually due to the rings
Black smoke usually mean oilbut it migt be blue i dont remember?
More Briggs!!!
bingo, jetted TOO large can be draining the bowl really quickly too.
Man I would have bought 100 keys instead of two lol
I got a minbike for xmas when i was 6. Wish in still had it. It was 1975 when i was 6. But i still road the 100cc dirtbike i had to run and jump on to ride. Cuz i was too short
merci les gars pour les vidéos like yours style les bro from TAHITI french polynésia
Bring back the turbo drift trike please do a revival on it please it was such a great build
Valve grinding compound on the crankshaft will hold the flywheel in place.
try using a 26mm mikuni instead of a 22
It looked like the back tire was flat, air it up and I bet it will be a little faster.
Well for one there's a weight issue. Build that for kids. Build an adult frame. We have 25/30 child frames and 45 adult frames. No their not for sale. Look into Cushman cycles. We a few of those as well. Fun 😄
You can take the starter apart there are a few bearings inside. A lot of times they get gummed up and don't release. There's a hole and you can put a few drops of transmission fluid. There's a felt pad inside.
Oh also get a mirror or a piece of glass to flatten the head yourself. Put sand paper down on the glass and work your way up from 150 grit up to how ever high up you want to go.
As we say down here in Texas.... " If it wasn't for bad luck... you wouldn't have any luck"! Great Vid Guys Keep me entertained I am Love'n it Rusty
You guys need to do something bigger then all these small engine carts and bikes. May I suggest you get an old dirt bike 250cc, 2 or four stroke, don’t matter up to you, get a good chassis and go from there with shocks. Pump it out, I think I would be interesting and I think you guys might too.
Hi from Wales,due to your influence, I have finally got a mower to mess with, 14 hp briggs Vee twin, got all the mowing tack off, and just about to switch pulleys about.....Although I am wondering if an "offroad" style might be more fun than a top speed mower (more fields to drive on around here) Might be a good build for you guys, a crawler mower......
I feel like your problems are coming from the flywheel/flywheel magnets. My hypothesis would be that the flywheel is vibrating at high rpm (warped or simply unbalanced), getting a few mm tolerance and shears the key, then loosens the starter nut. That would kind of make sense with that rev limit too.. the whole crankshaft could be shifting at high rpm and losing connection with the magnet/coil. I feel this is 100 percent a ignition issue, fuel seems more than ok to me.. plus its not running a fuel pump so less chances of it being a vacuum leak... being an internet mechanic is fun!
hay IKe the dike next door has the same hair cut!!!!
I can't believe John is just flat out refusing to do the nekkid lap. Not that I want to see him nekkid but the embarrassment would be fun to watch. :)
Going back on a bet after you lose should have some pretty severe consequences.
love your videos and channel soo much, thank you guys for the awesomeness and blessful channel/videos, you guys are special to me and I'm thankful for you, God bless :), everyone have a good and blessed day!
is this with your welded camshaft? When i welded mine i gained compression as if it was turbocharged/ the engine gained compression and it sheared the key.
That being said.. if you know about boosted engines... you may need LESS TIMING .
If you really welded your camshaft, try a compression check. Mine went from 85 to 125psi with the valve lash on point.
and yes ..the kart pulled hard. i'm talking white-knuckling, steering-wheel-flexing hard(made of hard plastic).
i'll get back to making gokart vids one of these days.
If you guys are going to work on the older flathead briggs more, you should probably invest in the starter clutch removal tool. Then you can use the impact to loosen and tighten it. Search part number 19244 on amazon for one!
Take the gas cap off the tiny tank and see if the problem goes away. I bet it is not allowing fuel to flow to the carb properly and is chugging.
My friend got me a tshirt for Christmas from you guys. Also it sounds like my atv was the bowl couldn't fill quick enough
Use valve grinding compound to lap the flywheel to the crankshaft. Use an offset key and raise the timing.Make sure you have a stock size jet in it for gasoline.
flattening a head low budget way : get the bathroom mirror and some 600 grit waterproof sandpaper
put water on mirror flatten the sandpaper over the water so it sticks to the mirror put more water on the sanding paper lay the head on the sandpaper and start making figure 8 motions with light pressure , keep checking the shine on the mating surface if its fully filled in youre there , good way to raise the compression too after grinding a little of the mating surface using course sandpaper
about the surging of the engine : could it be a floating or slightly stuck valve (then again it would pop and sputter if it was )
probably ignition , get some electronic ignition thing running of a battery to test that
See what happens when Murphy comes to visit. A sacrifice to the small engine gods is in order.
That thing dose grate burnouts!!
heat the fly wheel up with a torch then install it while it is hot. the aluminum pull starts never hold the fly wheel down when the engine is built, I tried a few times, not enough torque.
I stayed home from work and THIS is on?
I guess losing money isn't THAT bad.
Michael Hartzell 😂😂😂
Hope PTO helps
Hahaha same here
Make sure you guys check gear ratios on both bikes. Also try to get tires size the same making them equal as possible.
Great video as always.
Really like the look of the blue mini bike.
Has that old school look.
I'm building a 150cc for y'all meet at Busco Beach I'm only about an hour from there
Has your neighbors ever said anything to you?
*cough* maybe something about noise perhaps?
Time to get the proper socket for the starter clutch. The clutch needs to be even tighter than "super dooper tight"
Also lap the flywheel to the crank stub with valve lapping compound. It will increase the contact area and decrease the chance of it slipping prematurely
Put a tiny little bit of oil on the shaft where it contacts the clutch bearings before you put the clutch back on. Problems will go away with it spitting out the rop.
Y’all need to start working on an amphibious machine stat. Spring is right around the corner.
BILLET FLYWHEEL. Use a ACTUAL TORQUE SPEC NO MORE HAMMER TRICK. PUT A PULSE PUMP ON THAT FUEL LINE. And that briggs will work wonders
670 v-twin + rat rod wagon = BIG Fun. Nuff said.
Remember everything is for TESTING PURPOSES ONLY
Hey what’s up guys
for the cord coming out, squirt some oil in the little hole on the end of the starter, when its installed on the crank shaft. whats happening is the starter is sticking to the crankshaft and not freewheeling. no limiter it's probably the carb
Nice ride .John. guess u better get ready for truck washing lol
New series.. "This old engine"... Knock off of the Bob Vila series! Hahaha
Couple of things that could be an issue: First the carb could be sucking in the exhaust causing vapor lock, second change the slid arm position on the carb as it might too rich for the engine, third (and one I think is the most likely cause) the fuel line has a weird bend in it after leaving the tank and with not enough vacuum from the motor it s causing the surging. The fuel issue could be solves either moving the engine forward some or adding in a pulse pump, this would get rid of the "S" bend in the line making the flow much more constant. If it is the exhaust being sucked into the carb just make the exhaust 3 inches longer. The second one is self explanatory. Also are you lapping the flywheels before installing the new keys? Seems odd that it is shredding keys like unless the surging is that strong.
Your guys persistence always amazes me!. Great episode
I know what the problem is... this very think happened to my first harley check your float height your running out of fuel at high rpm's and the bike falls on its face till the float bowl fills back up and off ya go till ya run out. Matbe check your lines for obstruction but i think its a float issue. BUT we are all entitled to our wrong opinions lmao
Out of fuel. Install a pump. Adjust float level. Put a deeper bowl, all kinds of stuff you can do. You added air and RPM and are still gravity feeding gas at a pitiful rate. If at idle the engine recovers and can rev again you are going lean. Unless you can increase inlet diameter, tank outlet diameter, hose size and increase tank elevation you need a pump.
It would sputter and die bc carbon build up on the plug bc it's running richer than Jeff bezos
You gotta use lapping compound on the hole in the flywheel and lap the flywheel to the crankshaft by turning the flywheel back and forth on the crankshaft and then clean the lapping compound off and then tighten the flywheel and you won't even need a flywheel key anymore.
Need to shorten that fuel line, it’s too long. That roller coaster up and down way you have it running is likely causing the gravity flow problem.
hey genius you ever lube that starter? you see that little hole at top of square post? no forget it don't lube just keep buying starters. do you guys know how to read? maybe try buying a briggs small engine repair manual so you understand what you are working on.
Very cool guys, can’t wait for the next one
Epic
I want to see you guys build a kart around a Briggs Boxer. Let's see how much ass you can haul with one of those torquey monsters!
The Briggs Magnetron coils (non-points) retard timing as engine RPM increases. Starter nut torque is about 60 ft-lbs, there is a special flywheel holder tool that was sold, it can easily be made. As you improve performance over stock, the choice of cam and carb/jetting is also important, and there are a number of different flywheel key offsets available to match ignition timing to the cam. For example, a Dyno Cams 96-3 (stock class racing cam, max lift 0.233") calls for a key which advances timing 30-32 degrees BTDC, as well as heavier valve springs. A billet ARC rod is a necessity when these motors are pulling over 5k rpm, you'll want the 3.875 length to get the correct pop-up on the piston. Stick with using the 5hp horizontal shaft head, shave it down a few thousandths. Any other Briggs head will hurt the performance. There's a great karting resource website known as Bobs 4 cycle, it's also available in app form and has a flathead specific forum where racers and engine builders share info to get the most out of these motors.
A cheap and great way to skim a cylinder head is to get a flat piece of glass and put it on a flat bench then put grinding paste on then lots of elbow grease! When you have done it for an hour or so it makes a lot of difference to the power👍😉 thank me later!
Hey guys, just passing on a tip from an old timer I got back in the 90's. If you keep shearing the flywheel key on a Briggs flatty, it's just from a sloppy fit. Put some valve grinding compound on the crank before sliding the flywheel on. It will take up the slop and you should be good to go. BTW, put some light oil in those starter clutches to keep them going. Also, the cutting out is probably fuel delivery.
Yeah, don't most of them have a pin hole in the top so you can put a few drops of oil in there when doing maintenance? Been quite a few years since I tore into a mower engine.
@@olds97lss yep. I remember trying a ton of different oils in mine and having some fantastic failures. I don't remember what worked best, I think it was marvel but it's been a long time.
#1 you need to NEVER run those stock flywheels over 4000 rpms, you're gonna take a chunk of flywheel to the leg or side of the head. get BILLET FLY WHEELS, and TORQUE THEM DOWN TO THE PROPER TORQE SETTING!!!
Seems alot like weird valve float because I have an old 3hp briggs that has bad valve springs and it revs low but does that surging at full throttle
2:48 Exactly what I said first time I got my hands down there lol
Fuel................Problem. Ran into that problem Racing Briggs Raptors. Pick up problems
kool scooters, burn outs and a close race. Good stuff, keep it up.
Make sure to clean the crank and the inside of the flywheel with brake cleaner before reassembly
Yo Ike where can we pickup that sweet neck mounted safety/sunglasses holder that you’re always rocking?
Beach
Really nice bike! I love the blue!
I actually took off a aluminum flywheel off a Briggs push mower and the coil to the horizontal Briggs it actually worked better and lightened up the Crank and I ran the engine on a Dyno it actually screamed to a whopping 6,500 RPM's the key is to put a light flywheel on the crank your RPM's will be faster and higher
Sounds very much like valve float...if you buy aftermarket heavier springs specifically designed for the Briggs it should stop that. I think the predator springs were either too short or not strong enough to get those valves closed in time for the next compression stroke at those high rpms your lookin for. Also, with higher rpms comes the danger of your flywheel shattering. That’s what the light valve springs are for is to keep the rpms low enough to keep the flywheel from breaking and possibly hurting you. A billet aluminum flywheel can handle those high rpms and is also lighter just like the 3 hp flywheel y’all had. I don’t think it’s carburetor or fuel but I could be wrong. GREAT STUFF!
Floating the valves or binding the springs is more than likley the break up problem.
pending on cam 94ss needs 20 to 22 pound springs, the 107ss needs 30 to 32 pound springs.
Or even carb issue.
I saw some things that you might want to try. 1st you were running so rich you were almost " rolling coal " when you fired up for the 1st pass. Rich mixtures don't make revs , or as we used to say "Fat girls can't run fast ". That will carry over to fuel delivery on the top end , it can't keep up. If you can find one , the aluminum flywheel from an old 3.5 hp push mower with the pull start on the side of the flywheel I have reved to 9400 rpm but the balance has to be spot on. DON'T use the 3.5 aluminum with the regular pull start. They can come apart at 4500. Lap the flywheel to the crank and time the ignition with a steel offset key. I made a hub that held a degree wheel so I could check timing with a timing light
*CarsandCameras* Can you guys buy and build a 6x6 amphibious project, but make it fast as hell, they're normally not too quick...I want to see one haul ass.
Love mini bikes..
My lil’ indian ran forever in the sixties with straight pipe and gov taken off.
I love these older frames, i got up to 40 with a 99cc i modified with stock gearing, thank you for everything youve done and for still making videos
Fuel delivery is my guess it’s a gravity fed system, put a fuel pump on it and a larger carb or just change carb to alcohol . There is a Raptor 3 for sale in Facebook market place in Minneapolis and he’s asking I think about $200.00 for it ! I no it’s there today ! It use to my motor so I know it’s good !