I am amazed by how much the 'experts' hate you. They spend all their time begging to god to let a person like you start up and make some pens, not because you want the money, but because you like it. And when you finally arrive, they hate you. Extraordinary. Love your pens, love your work, love your prices. Keep going Nathan, it is fantastic.
Thank you, every time I watch your videos I learn more. During my childhood in India, there were lot of pen shops who cleaned and maintained your fountain pen, (all ink was mineral,no dye), and pens used to clog. Also pens leaked all the time and that was acceptable. I have to develop skill to the point I can take care of my late father's pen collection.
I can't remember. Every time a gold nib was on a parts pen/broken pen I habitually would buy it if priced at or below gold content...even when gold was about 1/10th what it is now. I tinkered with nibs for a long time and would obtain them from pen dealers broken and otherwise, flea markets, antique shops, old stationary stores...everywhere and anywhere. I needed them for so many "trial by error" experiments...just a constant search over time. Shoveled snow for a busted Wat. #10 nib once.
I’ve just ordered my first Noodler’s; Konrad and a Nib Creaper, I love the vibe of the company and the pens seems like a no-brainer purchase. I haven’t enjoyed fountain pens for twenty five years since school, but I’m falling fast down the rabbit hole again, seemed rude not to try a Noodler’s and their hands-on usage. Great way to learn. Thank you!
In addition, flea markets and antique shops still sell parts pens with good nibs that would fit the pen shown (a Konrad) for less than $5. I kid you not - they still sell even gold nibs for under $5 even though most that size are worth at least $20 on gold content alone. The pen was made for dis-assembly/reassembly and many potential modifications...so if you do find an interesting nib on a broken pen and it looks like it is about the right size.>.HAVE FUN!!
They have a few reasons, but eventually greed will kill the fountain pen if somebody does not try their best to demonstrate the economic argument that the fountain pen IS THE BEST DEAL for versatile writing instruments upon the face of the earth.
Cheaply made is different from Inexpensively made. Cheaply made will kill the Industry. The only thing wrong with Indian made Click Brand eye-dropper fountain pens, is that our Sub-Continental have NO concept of how a pen cap clip should work.
In thinking about what you said about the air-ink exchange, I applied my thoughts to modifying the housing of my flex pen and NOW it gets all the ink it needs!! You were so right sir, you can supply all the ink you want...if you can't balance it with the same amount of air...everything stops!!! You ABSOLUTELY ROCK!!! THANK YOU!!!
This video was super helpful! I started my fountain pen adventure with a Preppy and now I've got a Konrad Thule and Rollerball. I had fun doing some adjustments on the Thule, loaded it up with Air Corps and have been loving re-learning how to write with flex, haha. I really appreciate the better understanding from this video and how sustainable and tinker-friendly you've made your pens. Plus, they write so darn well and feel great while doing it. Thanks for all you do and for giving a fountain pen newby some new knowledge, great pens, and fun, practical ink!
3 weeks of tireless research. Finally chose a first fountain pen, Ahab emerald demonstrator. One say later I've ordered the Konrad,extra nibs and I found vintage nibs ,10 for $8. online. After watching these videos over & over I have such excitement & confidence ! Thank you Nathan!
7 років тому
they really work, I have purchased a Konrad acrilyc bengal tired and Im very satisfied
I believe that if you mention more prominently, or at least somewhere, that this is actually the Noodler's Konrad fountain pen, it would be helpful! And increase your sales significantly. The vid pretty much sold me on this particular pen, the virtues of using an ebonite feed and heat setting, the virtues of using the #6 nib - I get it all now. The testing of the pen in water with the paper towel and watching the bubble - so smart and explains the working of any fountain pen so graphically and clearly. On top of that you cover checking the seal with a simple blow test. Probably the most informative video on fountain pen operation in general I've yet seen. And did you know the Goulet Pen Co some how currently lists this pen as not being nib-interchangeable?
Be sure of two things - the channel is clear and open...sometimes in filling (particularly ink that was used a lot and had pens in and out often) debris can get trapped in the channel...both pens have friction fit feeds that are easily removed so that you can clear the channel. Second - in flexing has the nib moved away from the feed as it settles in to your hand? One reason why the above film was made...you can heat set the ebonite feed close to the underside of the nib (until it touches).
I've recently purchased a Clear Demo Konrad, just like the one in the video, and it's a fantastic pen! It absolutely loves drier inks. Thank you so much Mr. Tardif for providing us with such wonderful writing instruments and inks.
Thanks so much. Didn't know how informative your videos were till I actually started using vintage ebonite pens. I live in India, I use the ebonite eyedriooers and other pens available here. Recently I came across a piston filling acrylic pen with an ebonite feed
Hey Nathan, if swapping a nib that is the right diameter for a #6, but short by 5-10 mm, can you cut that amount off of the end of an ebonite feed? Great video as well. I learned a lot for this particular leg of my pen hobby.
Every problem I have to the Ahab is my own fault. I thank you for providing these videos, and the products. Love me some Australian Roses. Now if I can just learn the flex pen and tweak it to work for me.
I suggest starting to view this video at about the 25 min point, and then go back to the beginning. It seemed to me that the info at 25 mins helps make the rest of the info clearer and more understandable. Thanks.
I try to get everything into the videos...sometimes the order might not be the best. The greater fear is that a critical detail is overlooked completely.
Also, just so I clearly understand, where does the ink primarily flow out to the nib tip, and where does the air primarily flow back into the ink storage reservoir? Is the primary opening for the air the hole in the top of the nib and the slot in the top of the feed, and is the primary ink path the hole down through the middle of the feed? If you plug the hole down through the middle of the feed with a toothpick (or whatever), then where does the ink flow to the nib tip? If it flows then primarily down the slot in the top of the feed, then doesn't that impair the flow of air back up into the ink reservoir? Many thanks.
Spare Noodler's nibs or nibs in general? Noodler's nibs are generally free IF you had a really bad accident, but they are sent out sparingly and only to those who have already bought a Noodler's pen. The margin is thin, but I can't stand selling a component part for as much as would be required for the regular retail industry markups. In time it might have to be priced at $1 or so if a copycat sets it at $7 or so. It is still being reviewed.
I have respect for a man who does what he believes in. I'm trying to do the same. I just got a Ahab and it's awesome after watching videos and tinkering with it per online instructions.
Nail varnish...is a type of shellac according to none other than Frank Dubiel. :-) Pli-glass I always fitted with a good amount of fresh rubber cement...it seemed to hold up better over time and be more easily removed on Parker 51s and Brit. aero duofolds when needed. Some shellac and nail varnish will have solvents that can mar a plastic mount - say methanol or acetone, mek, etc...so rubber cement might be a better way to go with a plastic mount. Both will work, however...
I have watched three or four times this particular this video and now enjoy playing with my two Ahabs, so thank you very much. One thing Nathan if I may ask you is about shellac. I bought a Parker Duofold about 4 months ago and I made the mistake of soaking it overnight in water and the sac came off. I asked the dealer if I could use shellac to put the sac back on. He said he had fitted a pli glass sac and NOT to use shellac but to use clear nail varnish. Could you advise me please as I'm unsure
Hi I'm relatively new to the pen but love its flex. However, I'm having problems properly getting the flow out of my ahab and konrad to work. Having recently bought them, I filled them up and started writing. But shortly after, I found that they would railroad and then eventually not get any flow at all. Is there something I should be doing aside from just adjusting the position of the nib and feed within the pens? I love the pen but hate having to tap down so constantly just to get ink flowing.
Nathan, my Ahab will not stop draining into the cap (your feed and flex nib) when tip down (or after writing for 10 mins). Should I try this heat setting to reduce the flow when tip down? This even happens with the breather tube removed, but I have not yet wanted to fill the feed hole because I like the ability to flex.
My konrad clear, has a silver ring in the section, unlike this one. Is this a newer version? Durability does not seem to be great though, cap cracked(15mm long thin crack) under slight pressure with a pencil, when I was trying to remove the plastic inner cap, in order to clean ink trapped behind it. Writes perfectly and I really enjoy it, My favorite pen amongst, Pelikan, Montblanc and Parker that I also own. I wonder if you provide a cap as a spare part.
How can a pencil remove the inner cap? Please contact Luxury Brands USA for a cap. If you ever have that issue again, rinse the cap with water (fill half way and seal the end with your thumb..then shake the cap while sealed) and then use compressed air to blow out the material you dislike. I can get a cap to crack by putting a pencil between the inner cap and the outer cap too - it is like opening an egg from the inside in physics. Please don't do that again. There are many sources of info on the removal of inner caps - there even are inner cap removal tools sold at pen shows and online.
I pulled the spiraly thing which operates the piston out of my konrad. Cant really get it back inside (I have dissassembled the pen). I could put it back together, but the piston now only operates by applying lots of pressure on the spiral thing, otherwise it will screw itself out. any idea how to fix this?
There is a line that has to be matched to the groove - if you just stick the spiral in without matching the line and groove...it will jam. That line and groove prevent the piston from spinning - that way it only goes forward and backward to fill the pen.
Recently, I purchased a Konrad Galapagos Tortoise Roller Ball (from Goldspot Pens). I filled it up with 41 Brown (a fussy & stubborn Ink). That Pen and that Ink are a Beautiful match. However, 41 was 41. I emptied the pen and ran it under the faucet. The Rollerball came out and went down the drain 😮! Inexpensively made 👍🏼. Cheaply made 👎🏼. These are 2 very different things. Pity.
Writing with one now due to carbon copy shipping labels. I can remove all the parts with my thumb and forefinger...the filler is threaded for easy removal and servicing...and the feed unit can have the ink ball replaced indefinitely if the unit were to wear out - and such units are for sale at the lowest cost per ink ball tip I can see online. It takes extra effort to thread all the parts and make the pen serviceable without the need for specialized tools. Cheaply made would be something that is incapable of any servicing, has no threaded parts, and no replaceable tips or seals...and is disposable. This pen was first filled with black years ago and has never been rinsed, but if I were to "flush"/rinse it - I admit to you that I would disassemble it and let it soak in a dish of soapy water with a little household ammonia for a couple hours. Then I would dry it on a paper towel, and reassemble - using silicone grease on the filler seal if it needed it to keep it smooth. Just my $0.02
Broken MB 146 pens at antique and flea markets, Pelikan 400 nibs, Sheaffer standard sized balance and flat top pens...all sometimes are abandoned by people who no longer want to fix them and simply want the gold value back.
I am amazed by how much the 'experts' hate you. They spend all their time begging to god to let a person like you start up and make some pens, not because you want the money, but because you like it. And when you finally arrive, they hate you. Extraordinary. Love your pens, love your work, love your prices. Keep going Nathan, it is fantastic.
Thank you, every time I watch your videos I learn more. During my childhood in India, there were lot of pen shops who cleaned and maintained your fountain pen, (all ink was mineral,no dye), and pens used to clog. Also pens leaked all the time and that was acceptable. I have to develop skill to the point I can take care of my late father's pen collection.
I can't remember. Every time a gold nib was on a parts pen/broken pen I habitually would buy it if priced at or below gold content...even when gold was about 1/10th what it is now. I tinkered with nibs for a long time and would obtain them from pen dealers broken and otherwise, flea markets, antique shops, old stationary stores...everywhere and anywhere. I needed them for so many "trial by error" experiments...just a constant search over time. Shoveled snow for a busted Wat. #10 nib once.
I’ve just ordered my first Noodler’s; Konrad and a Nib Creaper, I love the vibe of the company and the pens seems like a no-brainer purchase.
I haven’t enjoyed fountain pens for twenty five years since school, but I’m falling fast down the rabbit hole again, seemed rude not to try a Noodler’s and their hands-on usage.
Great way to learn.
Thank you!
In addition, flea markets and antique shops still sell parts pens with good nibs that would fit the pen shown (a Konrad) for less than $5. I kid you not - they still sell even gold nibs for under $5 even though most that size are worth at least $20 on gold content alone. The pen was made for dis-assembly/reassembly and many potential modifications...so if you do find an interesting nib on a broken pen and it looks like it is about the right size.>.HAVE FUN!!
Found out today that a nib from a Kaweco Sport will fit a Nib Creaper.
This is an awesome concept. Thank you! Will hunt for a nice gold nib on a broken pen. : )
They have a few reasons, but eventually greed will kill the fountain pen if somebody does not try their best to demonstrate the economic argument that the fountain pen IS THE BEST DEAL for versatile writing instruments upon the face of the earth.
Word, my bird, word. I bought an Ahab & some bat ink from dromgooles. Will continue to buy more since watching your vidz.
Cheaply made is different from Inexpensively made. Cheaply made will kill the Industry. The only thing wrong with Indian made Click Brand eye-dropper fountain pens, is that our Sub-Continental have NO concept of how a pen cap clip should work.
In thinking about what you said about the air-ink exchange, I applied my thoughts to modifying the housing of my flex pen and NOW it gets all the ink it needs!!
You were so right sir, you can supply all the ink you want...if you can't balance it with the same amount of air...everything stops!!!
You ABSOLUTELY ROCK!!!
THANK YOU!!!
This video was super helpful! I started my fountain pen adventure with a Preppy and now I've got a Konrad Thule and Rollerball. I had fun doing some adjustments on the Thule, loaded it up with Air Corps and have been loving re-learning how to write with flex, haha.
I really appreciate the better understanding from this video and how sustainable and tinker-friendly you've made your pens. Plus, they write so darn well and feel great while doing it. Thanks for all you do and for giving a fountain pen newby some new knowledge, great pens, and fun, practical ink!
3 weeks of tireless research. Finally chose a first fountain pen, Ahab emerald demonstrator. One say later I've ordered the Konrad,extra nibs and I found vintage nibs ,10 for $8. online. After watching these videos over & over I have such excitement & confidence ! Thank you Nathan!
they really work, I have purchased a Konrad acrilyc bengal tired and Im very satisfied
I believe that if you mention more prominently, or at least somewhere, that this is actually the Noodler's Konrad fountain pen, it would be helpful! And increase your sales significantly. The vid pretty much sold me on this particular pen, the virtues of using an ebonite feed and heat setting, the virtues of using the #6 nib - I get it all now. The testing of the pen in water with the paper towel and watching the bubble - so smart and explains the working of any fountain pen so graphically and clearly. On top of that you cover checking the seal with a simple blow test. Probably the most informative video on fountain pen operation in general I've yet seen. And did you know the Goulet Pen Co some how currently lists this pen as not being nib-interchangeable?
Just put it in the title... ;-)
Be sure of two things - the channel is clear and open...sometimes in filling (particularly ink that was used a lot and had pens in and out often) debris can get trapped in the channel...both pens have friction fit feeds that are easily removed so that you can clear the channel. Second - in flexing has the nib moved away from the feed as it settles in to your hand? One reason why the above film was made...you can heat set the ebonite feed close to the underside of the nib (until it touches).
I've recently purchased a Clear Demo Konrad, just like the one in the video, and it's a fantastic pen! It absolutely loves drier inks. Thank you so much Mr. Tardif for providing us with such wonderful writing instruments and inks.
Thanks so much. Didn't know how informative your videos were till I actually started using vintage ebonite pens. I live in India, I use the ebonite eyedriooers and other pens available here. Recently I came across a piston filling acrylic pen with an ebonite feed
Nathan, I always enjoy your videos. I learn something every time and so appreciate you taking the time to make and edit the shows.
Thank you for making this video. I have a Konrad pen that was leaking ink badly, but I was able to follow along and fix my pen.
Hey Nathan, if swapping a nib that is the right diameter for a #6, but short by 5-10 mm, can you cut that amount off of the end of an ebonite feed? Great video as well. I learned a lot for this particular leg of my pen hobby.
Every problem I have to the Ahab is my own fault. I thank you for providing these videos, and the products. Love me some Australian Roses. Now if I can just learn the flex pen and tweak it to work for me.
Thankyou. Understood every word. Marvellous! Cleared up so many mysteries.
I suggest starting to view this video at about the 25 min point, and then go back to the beginning. It seemed to me that the info at 25 mins helps make the rest of the info clearer and more understandable. Thanks.
I try to get everything into the videos...sometimes the order might not be the best. The greater fear is that a critical detail is overlooked completely.
Also, just so I clearly understand, where does the ink primarily flow out to the nib tip, and where does the air primarily flow back into the ink storage reservoir? Is the primary opening for the air the hole in the top of the nib and the slot in the top of the feed, and is the primary ink path the hole down through the middle of the feed? If you plug the hole down through the middle of the feed with a toothpick (or whatever), then where does the ink flow to the nib tip? If it flows then primarily down the slot in the top of the feed, then doesn't that impair the flow of air back up into the ink reservoir? Many thanks.
Spare Noodler's nibs or nibs in general? Noodler's nibs are generally free IF you had a really bad accident, but they are sent out sparingly and only to those who have already bought a Noodler's pen. The margin is thin, but I can't stand selling a component part for as much as would be required for the regular retail industry markups. In time it might have to be priced at $1 or so if a copycat sets it at $7 or so. It is still being reviewed.
Using the standard flex nib, mine writes fine, but when i put the noodlers non flex nib in it gushes ink...
I have respect for a man who does what he believes in. I'm trying to do the same. I just got a Ahab and it's awesome after watching videos and tinkering with it per online instructions.
Man, I wish I had the strong fingers and could do this sort of pen-play myself. I might try tho. What a marvelous and informative video this is!
Nail varnish...is a type of shellac according to none other than Frank Dubiel. :-)
Pli-glass I always fitted with a good amount of fresh rubber cement...it seemed to hold up better over time and be more easily removed on Parker 51s and Brit. aero duofolds when needed. Some shellac and nail varnish will have solvents that can mar a plastic mount - say methanol or acetone, mek, etc...so rubber cement might be a better way to go with a plastic mount. Both will work, however...
I have watched three or four times this particular this video and now enjoy playing with my two Ahabs, so thank you very much. One thing Nathan if I may ask you is about shellac. I bought a Parker Duofold about 4 months ago and I made the mistake of soaking it overnight in water and the sac came off. I asked the dealer if I could use shellac to put the sac back on. He said he had fitted a pli glass sac and NOT to use shellac but to use clear nail varnish. Could you advise me please as I'm unsure
Thank you so much for this video, I learned so much, I with be placing an order very soon.
Hi I'm relatively new to the pen but love its flex. However, I'm having problems properly getting the flow out of my ahab and konrad to work. Having recently bought them, I filled them up and started writing. But shortly after, I found that they would railroad and then eventually not get any flow at all. Is there something I should be doing aside from just adjusting the position of the nib and feed within the pens? I love the pen but hate having to tap down so constantly just to get ink flowing.
Nathan, my Ahab will not stop draining into the cap (your feed and flex nib) when tip down (or after writing for 10 mins). Should I try this heat setting to reduce the flow when tip down? This even happens with the breather tube removed, but I have not yet wanted to fill the feed hole because I like the ability to flex.
My konrad clear, has a silver ring in the section, unlike this one. Is this a newer version? Durability does not seem to be great though, cap cracked(15mm long thin crack) under slight pressure with a pencil, when I was trying to remove the plastic inner cap, in order to clean ink trapped behind it. Writes perfectly and I really enjoy it, My favorite pen amongst, Pelikan, Montblanc and Parker that I also own. I wonder if you provide a cap as a spare part.
How can a pencil remove the inner cap? Please contact Luxury Brands USA for a cap. If you ever have that issue again, rinse the cap with water (fill half way and seal the end with your thumb..then shake the cap while sealed) and then use compressed air to blow out the material you dislike. I can get a cap to crack by putting a pencil between the inner cap and the outer cap too - it is like opening an egg from the inside in physics. Please don't do that again. There are many sources of info on the removal of inner caps - there even are inner cap removal tools sold at pen shows and online.
I pulled the spiraly thing which operates the piston out of my konrad. Cant really get it back inside (I have dissassembled the pen). I could put it back together, but the piston now only operates by applying lots of pressure on the spiral thing, otherwise it will screw itself out. any idea how to fix this?
There is a line that has to be matched to the groove - if you just stick the spiral in without matching the line and groove...it will jam. That line and groove prevent the piston from spinning - that way it only goes forward and backward to fill the pen.
May I ask where you got the vintage gold nibs from? Thanks! Great tips :D.
is the content of this video available in written format somewhere?
Would google caption it? I don't know...I'll try to get it captioned.
Recently, I purchased a Konrad Galapagos Tortoise Roller Ball (from Goldspot Pens). I filled it up with 41 Brown (a fussy & stubborn Ink). That Pen and that Ink are a Beautiful match. However, 41 was 41. I emptied the pen and ran it under the faucet. The Rollerball came out and went down the drain 😮! Inexpensively made 👍🏼. Cheaply made 👎🏼. These are 2 very different things. Pity.
Writing with one now due to carbon copy shipping labels. I can remove all the parts with my thumb and forefinger...the filler is threaded for easy removal and servicing...and the feed unit can have the ink ball replaced indefinitely if the unit were to wear out - and such units are for sale at the lowest cost per ink ball tip I can see online. It takes extra effort to thread all the parts and make the pen serviceable without the need for specialized tools. Cheaply made would be something that is incapable of any servicing, has no threaded parts, and no replaceable tips or seals...and is disposable. This pen was first filled with black years ago and has never been rinsed, but if I were to "flush"/rinse it - I admit to you that I would disassemble it and let it soak in a dish of soapy water with a little household ammonia for a couple hours. Then I would dry it on a paper towel, and reassemble - using silicone grease on the filler seal if it needed it to keep it smooth. Just my $0.02
Broken MB 146 pens at antique and flea markets, Pelikan 400 nibs, Sheaffer standard sized balance and flat top pens...all sometimes are abandoned by people who no longer want to fix them and simply want the gold value back.
Great video, very informative. Thanks Nathan!
Thank you. Kind regards Tim Marshall
Thanks.
I wish you'd Stop Moving the Darn Nib around and be still in the camera view...so people can see how you setted the black part with the metal nib.
1st class