Removing an old existing chimney part 2 in the roof space
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Gday Team,
/ beowulfbuilders
Recently we made a video on the properties of pulling down a chimney in the floor area and under the floor, today we are looking at the best way to do this through the roof space.
how the roof structure could stitching, re-roofing the area, prepping a load bearing section, separation for the rising moisture in the timber from the masonry, insulate between the joists & some other UNREAL banana peal tricks.
Always be care full and use a professional where ever/ whenever you can.
Beowulf Builders - Bringing Old Homes into the Future
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#stayawesome #chimneyremoval #chimney #wulfinstitute #beowulfbuilders #hottradie
Old chimney (100+ years), mortar was just powder in places and it leaked. Deconstructed it and paved my back garden.
Good work Jamie
Thanks for great video. How you infilled gap in the ridge board? 🤔
stitch in a new ridge extension board
If chimney isn't supporting the roof do you still need any permission or structurall engineer to survey this chimney before or after you start works? 🤔
Gday Daniel,
DEFINATLY get a structural engineer to look over it or a professional builder. there is to much at risk to not warrant this. sometimes there are hidden supports or over time the chimney settles and leans onto the existing structure which can add unseen support works to the job.
feel free to look over more vids as there are plenty more on the channel
#stayawesome
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Joejoe
How do you know if it’s supporting the roof?
nice work, thanks for the video :-). Hey where are you guys based? I've got an old 1927 house in Goulburn, and am struggling to get the lime mortar mix right for repairing a wall that's falling down (double bricks, it's the external layer). My bricklayer is saying he'll use Lime Mortar, however he adds around a cup of portland cement to the mix (1:3 hydraulic lime to sand). The mortar can still breathe, but it looses it's flexibility with the cement. It's winter and not much chance of traditional lime setting at all in this weather. I'm sitting on Class M soils, reactive clays with a fair bit of heave and thaw. Sorry this is a little off point for chimney removal, but I saw you dealing with crumbly lime up there. Thanks
Gdayyyyy Sue,
Thanks for your interest.
With the deterioration of a solid double brick wall due to crumbling sand/lime mix there are a number of different measures depending on the structure of the build and the way the whole thing ties in together.
Firstly: Old mortar wasn't so much an adhesive like it is today with cement, water proofing additive, Brickie sand etc.... it was more of a BED and GAP filler made out of sand lime and horse hair or hay
Secondly: if the wall is structural id have a structural engineer look at it and see how it is TIE-ED together with the existing home. This will help with propping it / keeping it in position while the works are undertaken and improve the stability of hte home once the works are done
Third: the works themselves can be undertaken a number of different ways.... my favorite though on a wall like this is to COMBINE a few different methods that complement each other. What i mean by this is a good mortar mix ( 3:1:.5 sand to cement + lime ) and i'm a fan of using a water proofing additive if its close to the ground. Stitch rods also known as tie rods every 3 or 4th mortar line can really help ensure the wall stays in place once the works are completed.
hope this helps
Stay Awesome
Uncle Joe Joe
Thanks.
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Th
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