Easy repair! Tool list is extensive but I used a Phillips head screwdriver, needle nose pliers and small adjustable pliers. Cord is stiff enough to pass through without a guide. Burned the end of cord to prevent fraying.
Duane thank you so much. I have a 2016 TG 11' collar-tilt umbrella with integrated LED lighting. My cord snapped on the inside and I figured it'd be an hour to fix... but it was more like 4! (2 hours of that before I found your video). I think your instructions are generally great and apply well to the LED version too. Without your video I probably would have thrown the umbrella away! The things I have to add are: A) I found that a thin wire, like old picture hanging wire, worked well in place of fishing line, maybe even better as it's great at wrapping around the cord and staying there. Fishing line is probably great too but I didn't have any on hand. B) There is no need to remove the housing on the side opposite the crank, when you get to the washer under the gear, you can stop on that side. Yes you need to remove the housing on on the crank side. C) Were you concerned about having sharp screws coming through the housing 1-2" below the crank? I used a bolt because I was worried that the sharp tip of the screw might fray the new cord. D) because there is electrical stuff on the end of the LED pole that I didn't want to remove, I found it easiest to get the thick/lead wire out via the 2" slot under the tilt collar - and yes it got greasy as you predicted. E) I cut my new rope to match the length of the old rope, which turned out to be a mistake, because I had to trim the new rope several times to get the end neat and it ended up being a bit short. Recommend cutting your new rope ~3" too long, you can always trim it later. F) Your comment about using the right rope is spot-on. I ordered some generic umbrella rope from Amazon and it was about 1/2 mm wider than stock. 1/2 mm might not seem like much but it makes a huge difference in this case because the tolerances are so tight in several places. Unfortunately to order it I think you have to trade delayed emails with someone from TG in China so I made do with the Amazon cord. It can be done but it's a lot harder. G) To my surprise, the hole through the crank is angled about 20 degrees diagonally. I tried to push straight until I noticed this. H) If you can't quite fit your cord through one of the tight holes, especially the hole in the crank, this trick helped me: www.google.com/search?q=how+force+nylon+cord+through+small+hole&rlz=1C1GEWG_enUS928US928&oq=how+force+nylon+cord+through+small+hole&aqs=chrome..69i57.6798j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 I) I damaged my LED lights by being careless with the large plastic housing - take care if you have them! Again thank you so much. to doyoufeellikeido: the stock cord appears to be 3mm wide. The cord I used was 3.5mm and it barely fit. Also both cords hold their form well - they are sort of stiff. If you tried to use a really flexible/floppy cord I think you'd also be in a world of hurt.
Thanks for your tips! Good stuff, there! B) My old cord had frayed so badly and formed a tightly tangled ball that I needed to access both sides of the spindle to be able to tear it apart; otherwise yes I agree, you would only need to remove the crank side of the spindle holder. C) I *think* it will be okay to have those sharp screw tips inside the pole. The spindle only takes up about 4’ of cord, and the cord is always under tension when the spindle is fully loaded. So it’s unlikely for the cord to come into contact with the screws. However, if I’m wrong, your bolt suggestion is a good idea, or file down the tips of the screws so almost nothing sharp extends into the pole.
Re: B) , I have the collar type tilt version like Duanes. I did remove both brackets, since the crank rod was stuck with part of the old knotted cord still wound around the rod. I was able to hook out the loose end of the cord through the hole opposite the crank, which then freed the crank for removal.
Duane, many thanks for this video! There is NOTHING else on the internet that remotely comes close to explaining how to do this! This was also very accurate (about 90%) for the Treasure Garden Auto-Tilt umbrella (2014 purchase). I'm not certain how the Collar-Tilt and Auto-Tilt internal mechanisms differ, but I cannot get the umbrella to tilt. I would suspect it needs that extra bit of rope I cut towards the end of your video? For those with the Auto-Tilt umbrellas (the one that requires continuous turning of the the crank until it tilts), don't cut the rope until you verify it tilts. AGAIN, I have a 90% solution that works for now!!! THANK YOU!
I had the same issue. I think that 5m bolt interferes with the auto tilt mechanism. oh well doesn't tilt, still gonna save me 600$ for a new umbrella. cord cost $11. great video
Thanks. I was really only interested in the Auto-Tilt mechanism since I am looking to buy a new umbrella and I need to decide between the Collar style and the Crank type. I could not find a description of how this type works and whether it is more or less complicated that the other one. You provide some insight that is helpful. 👍
Thank you for the excellent tutorial. FYI - The two crank assembly replacement screws are mentioned at three points in the video. #8 screws are recommended @ 1:04 & @ 16:12. #6 screws are recommended @5:45. Which size is correct ?
I am pretty sure that I used a #8 screw. At the time when I filmed the part in the video where I was taking it apart (@5:45), I had not yet figured out precisely what screw would be needed to replace the rivet. The intro at 1:04 was filmed last, so it would be most accurate. Sorry for the confusion!
Duane, thanks for the video. I had been looking around for ways to get the umbrella cord through that tilt mechanism (after trying for a number of hours). In the end, after drilling out the rivet and separating the tilt joint, I used a vacuum at the top of the umbrella pole to suck up a thin thread, which I then attached to the umbrella cord to pull it through. It seems that it's not tilting anymore - mine's an automatic tilt, and when I kept trying to crank it, it didn't move. Maybe I screwed in the M5 bolt too tight.
The vacuum trick is a great idea! I don't know much about the auto-tilt mechanism. Yeah, try loosening the M5 bolt. My presumption with auto-tilt is that since the tilting begins when the umbrella is nearing it's full-open, that there must be some kind means for the "full-open" to trigger the tilt rotation. I'd try to figure what is supposed to trigger the tilt, and go from there.
Thank you. Video very helpful. However, beware… the challenging part is trying to pass the wire on the first section of the tube. Lots of obstructions. You need to be VERY patient and have Lots of time on your hands to finally get the wire through. It is worth the time. Merci
Thank you for the video - it was exactly what I needed. Using your instructions I was able to re-thread the new cord and I can crank the umbrella up and down again however the tilt mechanism does not work. Any ideas about that? P.S. - I was unable to find a long thin rod like you used to pull the cord through but I had a piece of romex sitting around so I cut a 6 foot section, removed the black wire and used it instead. Worked well enough. I was also unable to find a stainless steel M5 bolt long enough so I substituted a #8 which seems to work.
I didn’t examine the tilt mechanism too closely, so I am a little vague on how it might fail. One suggestion I have is to take a look at the two pins that are driven up/down by the turning of the collar. Those pins are held in place by the collar and one or both could have dropped out of the collar thread when you took off the crank shroud.
I finally manges to replace the cord and the umbrella does open wheel. However it doesn’t tilt and I think because I didn’t put the spring properly back in the tilt mechanism when it came out. Any thoughts?
I removed the rivet. However, the lower section does not separate easily from the top section. Is there a strong spring holding the two pieces together? If so, how best to get the leverage to pull the pieces apart?
I am not aware of a spring mechanism above the tilt axle. I have the collar-tilt type, and I can’t say how it might differ from the auto-tilt type. I did this operation on two umbrellas and both lower sections slid out just like in the video. Try to slightly rotate the lower section (as if the umbrella was beginning to tilt).
Thanks! The cord is 3mm wide, and at least 9’ is required. The cord is very stiff (because it has a tight weave) and very smooth. Eg. You should be able to take a 12” section, pull it straight, and it will not bend/sag if you pick it up in the middle of the section.
@@duaneanderson8641 Does the hex-head M5 and nylon nut sit inside the travel of the collar? The video ended before opening the final result. Hoping the collar doesn't catch on the nuts or bolt head. Thanks again.
The bolt head and nut do not catch on the sliding ring. I used a “button head” style bolt that was 35mm long before I cut it down to 33mm. I filed the cut end so that it would be rounded and just barely grip the nylon part of the lock nut. The nut does slightly protrude outside the envelope of the pole, but since it’s rounded the sliding ring goes past it easily.
File down any extra bolt length extending beyond the nylon lock nut. I did two umbrellas. One was fine without needing to file down the bolt, but the second umbrella’s bolt needed the filing.
On my Treasure Garden umbrella the bolt AND the nut have to be flush with the rounded pole or the central hub will not move over the nut/bolt. Any other suggestions?
@@p.andrewwill3523 What did the ends your original rivet mount against? For the ones I have seen, there is a flat recess on both sides of the hole, if it is the tilt type. The tilt mechanism puts the pivot axis off-to-the-side of the pole center line.
@@p.andrewwill3523 I used a phillips (flat-headed) M5 bolt (35mm in length) with a very small flat-head screw driver to hold the lock nut stationary... looks almost factory and works like a charm!
I purchased my cords from Casual Furniture Solutions (New York State, US). My contact there is Nick. The invoice shows this part number: “P-UMCORD12N - 807 Replacement Cord”. I did not measure my cords before I installed them.
Duane I am at the point of passing the guide wire & cord over the pulley and through the white guide insert & tube towards the tilt joint, but the wire stops just short of the tilt joint, which is where, looking thru the tube from the tilt joint end, I see two possible paths where the wire could pass through. One path is between two parallel "bars ", and the other path is through a small hole immediately adjacent to one of the bars. This small hole is between the bar and the interior wall of the tube. This small hole seems aligned on the same side of the tube as the white plastic guide noted earlier, and is much closer to the joint end than to the white plastic guide. Which path is correct? I tried an alternate method - passing the wire through the joint end of the tube and thru the small hole adjacent to the bar noted above. I was able to pass the wire through the proper side of the white plastic guide at the pulley end, but am unsure if I missed that small hole that you noted in your video - so I am at an impasse since I want to confirm the correct path at the tilt joint end before continuing assembly. Grateful for any additional guidance that you may have. Thank you
Although this video originally gave me hope, I quickly realized that not to be true. When you "pop" the bracket off by the handle it breaks...as did Duane's when he removed it...notice how he's holding it and puts it down out of sight. Drilling the rivet from the tilt mechanism wasn't fully shown in the recording and it is MUCH more difficult than depicted. Between the replacement cord and the time it takes to attempt this process, buying a new umbrella is much easier!
Popping the bracket off wasn't necessary on mine. Not sure why he did that. - I was able to remove the handle and spindle without removing the bracket. Drilling out a rivet can be easy if you have the right tools. Make sure you are using a drill bit for drilling metal and not for drilling wood.
I was glad that I removed both brackets since the crank rod was stuck with part of the old knotted cord still wound around the rod. I was able to hook out the loose end of the cord through the hole opposite the crank, which then freed the crank for removal.
Easy repair! Tool list is extensive but I used a Phillips head screwdriver, needle nose pliers and small adjustable pliers. Cord is stiff enough to pass through without a guide. Burned the end of cord to prevent fraying.
Just what I needed, thank you Duane.
Thank you from sunny Barbados.
Duane thank you so much. I have a 2016 TG 11' collar-tilt umbrella with integrated LED lighting. My cord snapped on the inside and I figured it'd be an hour to fix... but it was more like 4! (2 hours of that before I found your video). I think your instructions are generally great and apply well to the LED version too. Without your video I probably would have thrown the umbrella away! The things I have to add are:
A) I found that a thin wire, like old picture hanging wire, worked well in place of fishing line, maybe even better as it's great at wrapping around the cord and staying there. Fishing line is probably great too but I didn't have any on hand.
B) There is no need to remove the housing on the side opposite the crank, when you get to the washer under the gear, you can stop on that side. Yes you need to remove the housing on on the crank side.
C) Were you concerned about having sharp screws coming through the housing 1-2" below the crank? I used a bolt because I was worried that the sharp tip of the screw might fray the new cord.
D) because there is electrical stuff on the end of the LED pole that I didn't want to remove, I found it easiest to get the thick/lead wire out via the 2" slot under the tilt collar - and yes it got greasy as you predicted.
E) I cut my new rope to match the length of the old rope, which turned out to be a mistake, because I had to trim the new rope several times to get the end neat and it ended up being a bit short. Recommend cutting your new rope ~3" too long, you can always trim it later.
F) Your comment about using the right rope is spot-on. I ordered some generic umbrella rope from Amazon and it was about 1/2 mm wider than stock. 1/2 mm might not seem like much but it makes a huge difference in this case because the tolerances are so tight in several places. Unfortunately to order it I think you have to trade delayed emails with someone from TG in China so I made do with the Amazon cord. It can be done but it's a lot harder.
G) To my surprise, the hole through the crank is angled about 20 degrees diagonally. I tried to push straight until I noticed this.
H) If you can't quite fit your cord through one of the tight holes, especially the hole in the crank, this trick helped me: www.google.com/search?q=how+force+nylon+cord+through+small+hole&rlz=1C1GEWG_enUS928US928&oq=how+force+nylon+cord+through+small+hole&aqs=chrome..69i57.6798j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
I) I damaged my LED lights by being careless with the large plastic housing - take care if you have them!
Again thank you so much.
to doyoufeellikeido: the stock cord appears to be 3mm wide. The cord I used was 3.5mm and it barely fit. Also both cords hold their form well - they are sort of stiff. If you tried to use a really flexible/floppy cord I think you'd also be in a world of hurt.
Thanks for your tips! Good stuff, there! B) My old cord had frayed so badly and formed a tightly tangled ball that I needed to access both sides of the spindle to be able to tear it apart; otherwise yes I agree, you would only need to remove the crank side of the spindle holder. C) I *think* it will be okay to have those sharp screw tips inside the pole. The spindle only takes up about 4’ of cord, and the cord is always under tension when the spindle is fully loaded. So it’s unlikely for the cord to come into contact with the screws. However, if I’m wrong, your bolt suggestion is a good idea, or file down the tips of the screws so almost nothing sharp extends into the pole.
Re: B) ,
I have the collar type tilt version like Duanes. I did remove both brackets, since the crank rod was stuck with part of the old knotted cord still wound around the rod. I was able to hook out the loose end of the cord through the hole opposite the crank, which then freed the crank for removal.
Great job on the video Duane! Thanks for sharing
Duane, many thanks for this video! There is NOTHING else on the internet that remotely comes close to explaining how to do this! This was also very accurate (about 90%) for the Treasure Garden Auto-Tilt umbrella (2014 purchase). I'm not certain how the Collar-Tilt and Auto-Tilt internal mechanisms differ, but I cannot get the umbrella to tilt. I would suspect it needs that extra bit of rope I cut towards the end of your video? For those with the Auto-Tilt umbrellas (the one that requires continuous turning of the the crank until it tilts), don't cut the rope until you verify it tilts. AGAIN, I have a 90% solution that works for now!!! THANK YOU!
You are most welcome! Thanks for the tip for folks with the auto-tilt version! Enjoy the shade! Cheers.
I had the same issue. I think that 5m bolt interferes with the auto tilt mechanism. oh well doesn't tilt, still gonna save me 600$ for a new umbrella. cord cost $11. great video
Thanks. I was really only interested in the Auto-Tilt mechanism since I am looking to buy a new umbrella and I need to decide between the Collar style and the Crank type. I could not find a description of how this type works and whether it is more or less complicated that the other one. You provide some insight that is helpful. 👍
Thank you for the excellent tutorial.
FYI - The two crank assembly replacement screws are mentioned at three points in the video.
#8 screws are recommended @ 1:04 & @ 16:12.
#6 screws are recommended @5:45.
Which size is correct ?
I am pretty sure that I used a #8 screw. At the time when I filmed the part in the video where I was taking it apart (@5:45), I had not yet figured out precisely what screw would be needed to replace the rivet. The intro at 1:04 was filmed last, so it would be most accurate. Sorry for the confusion!
No worries !
Also, do you recall the length of the #8 screws ?
I assume it should be as short as possible to avoid potential contact with the cord.
I used whatever length I had on hand. Yes, use the shortest screw possible, but just long enough that it will hold.
cheers my dude
Duane, thanks for the video. I had been looking around for ways to get the umbrella cord through that tilt mechanism (after trying for a number of hours). In the end, after drilling out the rivet and separating the tilt joint, I used a vacuum at the top of the umbrella pole to suck up a thin thread, which I then attached to the umbrella cord to pull it through. It seems that it's not tilting anymore - mine's an automatic tilt, and when I kept trying to crank it, it didn't move. Maybe I screwed in the M5 bolt too tight.
The vacuum trick is a great idea! I don't know much about the auto-tilt mechanism. Yeah, try loosening the M5 bolt. My presumption with auto-tilt is that since the tilting begins when the umbrella is nearing it's full-open, that there must be some kind means for the "full-open" to trigger the tilt rotation. I'd try to figure what is supposed to trigger the tilt, and go from there.
Thank you. Video very helpful. However, beware… the challenging part is trying to pass the wire on the first section of the tube. Lots of obstructions. You need to be VERY patient and have Lots of time on your hands to finally get the wire through. It is worth the time. Merci
I have an older model but looks the same mechanically, do you know who does this repair? The MFGR says to contact the retailer. Thanks
Thank you for the video - it was exactly what I needed. Using your instructions I was able to re-thread the new cord and I can crank the umbrella up and down again however the tilt mechanism does not work. Any ideas about that?
P.S. - I was unable to find a long thin rod like you used to pull the cord through but I had a piece of romex sitting around so I cut a 6 foot section, removed the black wire and used it instead. Worked well enough. I was also unable to find a stainless steel M5 bolt long enough so I substituted a #8 which seems to work.
I didn’t examine the tilt mechanism too closely, so I am a little vague on how it might fail. One suggestion I have is to take a look at the two pins that are driven up/down by the turning of the collar. Those pins are held in place by the collar and one or both could have dropped out of the collar thread when you took off the crank shroud.
I finally manges to replace the cord and the umbrella does open wheel. However it doesn’t tilt and I think because I didn’t put the spring properly back in the tilt mechanism when it came out. Any thoughts?
I removed the rivet. However, the lower section does not separate easily from the top section. Is there a strong spring holding the two pieces together? If so, how best to get the leverage to pull the pieces apart?
I am not aware of a spring mechanism above the tilt axle. I have the collar-tilt type, and I can’t say how it might differ from the auto-tilt type. I did this operation on two umbrellas and both lower sections slid out just like in the video. Try to slightly rotate the lower section (as if the umbrella was beginning to tilt).
Great video and timely for me! Can you tell me the specs of the replacement cord?
Thanks! The cord is 3mm wide, and at least 9’ is required. The cord is very stiff (because it has a tight weave) and very smooth. Eg. You should be able to take a 12” section, pull it straight, and it will not bend/sag if you pick it up in the middle of the section.
@@duaneanderson8641 Does the hex-head M5 and nylon nut sit inside the travel of the collar? The video ended before opening the final result. Hoping the collar doesn't catch on the nuts or bolt head. Thanks again.
The bolt head and nut do not catch on the sliding ring. I used a “button head” style bolt that was 35mm long before I cut it down to 33mm. I filed the cut end so that it would be rounded and just barely grip the nylon part of the lock nut. The nut does slightly protrude outside the envelope of the pole, but since it’s rounded the sliding ring goes past it easily.
@@duaneanderson8641 Just completed the project thanks to you.
Have a cold one in the shade!
How does the collar slide by the m5 bolt and nylon lock nut?
File down any extra bolt length extending beyond the nylon lock nut. I did two umbrellas. One was fine without needing to file down the bolt, but the second umbrella’s bolt needed the filing.
On my Treasure Garden umbrella the bolt AND the nut have to be flush with the rounded pole or the central hub will not move over the nut/bolt. Any other suggestions?
@@p.andrewwill3523 What did the ends your original rivet mount against? For the ones I have seen, there is a flat recess on both sides of the hole, if it is the tilt type. The tilt mechanism puts the pivot axis off-to-the-side of the pole center line.
@@p.andrewwill3523 I used a phillips (flat-headed) M5 bolt (35mm in length) with a very small flat-head screw driver to hold the lock nut stationary... looks almost factory and works like a charm!
How long should be the cord?
I purchased my cords from Casual Furniture Solutions (New York State, US). My contact there is Nick. The invoice shows this part number:
“P-UMCORD12N - 807 Replacement Cord”. I did not measure my cords before I installed them.
Hola
Duane
I am at the point of passing the guide wire & cord over the pulley and through the white guide insert & tube towards the tilt joint, but the wire stops just short of the tilt joint, which is where, looking thru the tube from the tilt joint end, I see two possible paths where the wire could pass through. One path is between two parallel "bars ", and the other path is through a small hole immediately adjacent to one of the bars. This small hole is between the bar and the interior wall of the tube. This small hole seems aligned on the same side of the tube as the white plastic guide noted earlier, and is much closer to the joint end than to the white plastic guide.
Which path is correct?
I tried an alternate method - passing the wire through the joint end of the tube and thru the small hole adjacent to the bar noted above. I was able to pass the wire through the proper side of the white plastic guide at the pulley end, but am unsure if I missed that small hole that you noted in your video - so I am at an impasse since I want to confirm the correct path at the tilt joint end before continuing assembly.
Grateful for any additional guidance that you may have.
Thank you
Although this video originally gave me hope, I quickly realized that not to be true. When you "pop" the bracket off by the handle it breaks...as did Duane's when he removed it...notice how he's holding it and puts it down out of sight. Drilling the rivet from the tilt mechanism wasn't fully shown in the recording and it is MUCH more difficult than depicted. Between the replacement cord and the time it takes to attempt this process, buying a new umbrella is much easier!
Popping the bracket off wasn't necessary on mine. Not sure why he did that. - I was able to remove the handle and spindle without removing the bracket. Drilling out a rivet can be easy if you have the right tools. Make sure you are using a drill bit for drilling metal and not for drilling wood.
I was glad that I removed both brackets since the crank rod was stuck with part of the old knotted cord still wound around the rod. I was able to hook out the loose end of the cord through the hole opposite the crank, which then freed the crank for removal.