I worked at a dealership garage in the 1980’s and 1990’s and a lot of the new 4.0 six cylinders had piston rattle. Also many of the new Cadillacs had loud rattle on start up. The warranty claims all called it “normal” and rejected except for one man that lawyered up. He got a brand new complete engine “fresh” off the factory line that I installed. They sent it “plug and play” with everything on it including sensors, plug wires, manifold and fuel injectors, oil pan, pulleys, flywheel, the whole nine. Ha, ha! It was three times worse than the original engine. GM bought the car back and the dealer refunded his deal.
Even the large auto companies can't get it right some of the time. I hand fit each piston carefully and when my engine goes to the other side of the USA or overseas, I don't have any worries about problems.
Nice video Brian! What would be the maximum that the cylinders can be bored to before one needs to start sleeving it? I am not at this stage of my rebuild but will soon be getting there
early blocks about .040" oversize. Late blocks I have bored to .080" but sometimes I go thru the cylinder wall when going that large. Seems that each block is different due to the quality of the inside of the bore. If the coolant wasn't correct the inside of the block can become rusty and make the cylinder wall thinner. I am working on a block right now that is .060" over and I am starting to break thru the cylinder so I will have to sleeve it.
@metalshaper Thanks Brian, really appreciate the feedback. Completed my transfer and transmission cases rebuild, and all went well, thanks to your videos! Will be using your engine rebuilding videos extensively as it must be the best and most informative videos out there!
I like seeing people go to as little oversize as possible. I am so used to seeing people go to +.030 on everything, even if +.020 is readily available. Have you ever encountered Rebuilder's Choice performance coated pistons? I think it's fascinating to see performance coated pistons on stock rebuilds that predate performance coated pistons. I enjoy watching engine rebuilds on the Jamsi Channel. However, I don't think he ever rebuilt an early Jeep. 11:18 That's fascinating to me. I'm used to seeing the piston manufacturer call for a certain piston to wall clearance, and telling the machinist to measure at a certain part of the skirt. Doesn't that still ensure a proper piston to wall clearance and account for manufacturing variances? 14:57 It is my understanding that in the 1990s, every new engine received a plateau hone. Rebuilding a modern engine without one is not possible from what I have heard. 17:37 It's great to see a ball hone actually get used for the intended purpose. I am so sick of people just doing a quick re-ring with a ball hone, and not measuring how much bore wear they have beforehand. I don't know how many people I have met who bought a used car that said "Has a rebuilt engine." In reality, someone just pulled the heads, pulled the oil plan, used a ball hone, and put on standard rings. Those cars burn oil like crazy.
The piston/wall clearance is clearly marked on the box as well as where to measure the piston. Due to the mfg. having a .0005" tolerance I get to within .001" of the correct bore, then begin hand fitting pistons as you see in the video. There is a difference and as I said I try to get as close to perfect as possible. The plateau hone is standard procedure on any and every engine I build. If you were to see the cylinder wall under a microscope you will see exactly why the plateau honing is important. The ball hone is used correctly for just getting the proper crosshatch. It is a 400 grit hone so no material is being removed. I try to put out good and correct information in all my videos...... some believe in what I do and others complain and say they can do a better job. None of the complainers have ever showed me their shop or a finished engine though.
Looking good there bud! What rings do you like? Silvolite pistons are real good in my opinion also, but I mostly work on large diesels so OEM is the way to go. Aftermarket is junk for the most part in my world. Cheers!
I usually use Sealed Power or Hastings rings, they seem to be the best out there at this time. I do understand about aftermarket JUNK and see it all the time
@@skylinefever I don't use any type of coated pistons. Too many problems with them in the past and lots of information out there about their limited longevity.
I set the boring bar up by sending it to the very bottom of the bore. Unless there was a catastrophic failure the bottom of the bore usually has zero wear and is where the bar gets set up.
Brian, love your engine rebuild videos. I have a 1948 CJ2A w an L134 in need of rebuild/sleeve. Curious where you are located and approximate cost. Thx
Hello Brian, I have emailed you hoping to get some engine work done. I understand you are busy, just hoping to make contact with you. And hoping my email didn’t go to the spam folder. Please let me know the best way to contact you if my email has not made it to you. Thank you for your time
I enjoy hearing how you set things up it’s good to know that your knowledge is being recorded for future generations to learn from
Brian, I always learn something when I watch your vids. Thanks for showing how engine building should be done.
nice work. your attention to detail is rare these days
thanks for watching
Better than new Brian. 👍
Exactly. I like my engines to run and give good service for another 60 or 70 years.
Love seeing these engines getting new life!
I enjoy working on them as well. Hoping one day someone sees these engines coming together and decides to become the next generation of craftsmen.
Looking Good Brian 💪
You do real nice work Brian. I like your boring bar. Thanks for the video.
Always a nice job!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Always good to know you are watching Jim
Great Video! Thanks Brian!
appreciate you watching.
@@metalshaperJeep Of Course!! Ive learned so much from you. Thanks again....
I worked at a dealership garage in the 1980’s and 1990’s and a lot of the new 4.0 six cylinders had piston rattle. Also many of the new Cadillacs had loud rattle on start up. The warranty claims all called it “normal” and rejected except for one man that lawyered up. He got a brand new complete engine “fresh” off the factory line that I installed. They sent it “plug and play” with everything on it including sensors, plug wires, manifold and fuel injectors, oil pan, pulleys, flywheel, the whole nine. Ha, ha! It was three times worse than the original engine. GM bought the car back and the dealer refunded his deal.
Even the large auto companies can't get it right some of the time. I hand fit each piston carefully and when my engine goes to the other side of the USA or overseas, I don't have any worries about problems.
👍👍👍
👍
good to hear from you
Nice video Brian! What would be the maximum that the cylinders can be bored to before one needs to start sleeving it? I am not at this stage of my rebuild but will soon be getting there
early blocks about .040" oversize. Late blocks I have bored to .080" but sometimes I go thru the cylinder wall when going that large. Seems that each block is different due to the quality of the inside of the bore. If the coolant wasn't correct the inside of the block can become rusty and make the cylinder wall thinner. I am working on a block right now that is .060" over and I am starting to break thru the cylinder so I will have to sleeve it.
@metalshaper Thanks Brian, really appreciate the feedback. Completed my transfer and transmission cases rebuild, and all went well, thanks to your videos! Will be using your engine rebuilding videos extensively as it must be the best and most informative videos out there!
Yes, this is why some machinists have a sonic testing tool so they know exactly how much material they have left.
I like seeing people go to as little oversize as possible. I am so used to seeing people go to +.030 on everything, even if +.020 is readily available.
Have you ever encountered Rebuilder's Choice performance coated pistons? I think it's fascinating to see performance coated pistons on stock rebuilds that predate performance coated pistons.
I enjoy watching engine rebuilds on the Jamsi Channel. However, I don't think he ever rebuilt an early Jeep.
11:18 That's fascinating to me. I'm used to seeing the piston manufacturer call for a certain piston to wall clearance, and telling the machinist to measure at a certain part of the skirt. Doesn't that still ensure a proper piston to wall clearance and account for manufacturing variances?
14:57 It is my understanding that in the 1990s, every new engine received a plateau hone. Rebuilding a modern engine without one is not possible from what I have heard.
17:37 It's great to see a ball hone actually get used for the intended purpose. I am so sick of people just doing a quick re-ring with a ball hone, and not measuring how much bore wear they have beforehand. I don't know how many people I have met who bought a used car that said "Has a rebuilt engine." In reality, someone just pulled the heads, pulled the oil plan, used a ball hone, and put on standard rings. Those cars burn oil like crazy.
The piston/wall clearance is clearly marked on the box as well as where to measure the piston. Due to the mfg. having a .0005" tolerance I get to within .001" of the correct bore, then begin hand fitting pistons as you see in the video. There is a difference and as I said I try to get as close to perfect as possible.
The plateau hone is standard procedure on any and every engine I build. If you were to see the cylinder wall under a microscope you will see exactly why the plateau honing is important.
The ball hone is used correctly for just getting the proper crosshatch. It is a 400 grit hone so no material is being removed. I try to put out good and correct information in all my videos...... some believe in what I do and others complain and say they can do a better job. None of the complainers have ever showed me their shop or a finished engine though.
@@metalshaperJeep I like seeing that no critic can come back with their working Jeep to try to prove you wrong.
Looking good there bud! What rings do you like? Silvolite pistons are real good in my opinion also, but I mostly work on large diesels so OEM is the way to go. Aftermarket is junk for the most part in my world. Cheers!
I usually use Sealed Power or Hastings rings, they seem to be the best out there at this time. I do understand about aftermarket JUNK and see it all the time
Have you ever used Rebuilder's Choice performance coated pistons?
@@skylinefever I don't use any type of coated pistons. Too many problems with them in the past and lots of information out there about their limited longevity.
@@metalshaperJeep Thanks.
I found it interesting to see a kind of modern engine tech in old engines, but wasn't sure it it would work.
Have you ever tried relieving an F head around the exhaust valve like you do on the L head and did it help power output? Just curious.
No, the F head has large intake valves in the head and much more power than the L head engine. I don't ever relieve F heads, only L head engines.
Nice work. When you set up your boring machine, do you set the postion by the existing "good" part of the bore, or???
I set the boring bar up by sending it to the very bottom of the bore. Unless there was a catastrophic failure the bottom of the bore usually has zero wear and is where the bar gets set up.
Brian, love your engine rebuild videos. I have a 1948 CJ2A w an L134 in need of rebuild/sleeve. Curious where you are located and approximate cost. Thx
I am located in Connecticut but work on projects from around the world. You can bring or ship anything that needs repair.
Outstanding! What’s the best way to contact you to discuss scope and timing?
Hello Brian, I have emailed you hoping to get some engine work done. I understand you are busy, just hoping to make contact with you. And hoping my email didn’t go to the spam folder. Please let me know the best way to contact you if my email has not made it to you. Thank you for your time
didn't receive and email from you.