So, have you always understitched? Or have you been skipping it?😀 If your looking for a unique sewing leaning experience, come join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
I have understitched if the pattern called for it. But I had to look it up the first time as I had no clue what it was, despite two years of sewing in home ec. Of course that was more than two decades ago, and I’ve never been an especially accomplished sewist. Can top stitching achieve the same effect?
I like how top-stitching does almost the same thing. This just doesn't show the stitches, which would be preferable in some applications. I, personally, like the look of top-stitching but on some types of clothing it wouldn't look as "formal". Top-stitching tends to have an "everyday" look.
I don't think I realised that the seam allowance needed to be stitched to the facing. This makes much more sense, and I read up and pay attention to instructions, thanks this is a great help!
Dear Evelyn, many thanks, this is very useful video! I usually use this presser foot - sewing-saloon.com/image/cache/catalog/Lapka%20Dom/Lapka%20PO-7001/Lapka-PO-7001(2www.sewing-saloon.com)-1024x1024-product_popup.jpg Sorry for the link, as I don't know it's name. It is really helpful for understitching
Great comment, because just today I was sewing a blouse and thought about top stitching here and top stitching there and wisely restrained myself. Reason you mentioned! Lol
I learned to sew as a costuming student, i.e., down and dirty. No complicated closures. No extra stitching or tight stitching because everything needed to be taken apart and/or altered constantly, I’m now filling in the gaps in my education because all the world is actually NOT a stage. This is very helpful. Thank you.
I was going to say that that's pretty funny =] Now I realize that MANY of us are "down and dirty" sewers with: jeans repair; taking up a cheap piece of clothing for just wearing around the house; fixing other things around the house. Yeah, I ALSO need this professional info also when it comes to clothes I actually want people to see!
LOL - down and dirty! hahaha I grew up in a costuming household, so I know what that means! I have literally hand stitched a garment onto my friend when we were at school and her skirt started ripping!
This is also me! I’ve sewn a zipper onto a broken zipper before because it wouldn’t be noticed on stage 🤦🏻♀️ Now I’m a stage costumer who needs to up her still set!
I would say a key factor you did not touch on, is garment maintenance. Not only will the garment look so much better after being sewn an pressed, but in any wash and wear fabric, it could completely eliminate pressing in the future. If you staystitch and understitch, your garment is always going to look better after washing. That's a very compelling reason to spend a little extra time while making something, knowing it will be much easier to maintain!
Hi Matt, take a look at the Pattern Review community. Men are welcome :) tho I will admit they're still sadly a minority. sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?today=1&misc=1
Now that you understand how it feels, I hope you'll take that to heart and include women everywhere else in society and encourage other men to do the same because it does feel nice.
@@valeskavictoria1278 Where are you from? In my experience people usually say "ladies and gentlemen" unless they are saying something that's specifically being said to one or the other eg: "to all the ladies here" or "to all the men in the room. Also take note that when people say "ladies and gents", "ladies" always comes first. What made you assume he doesn't do that anyway?
When I was 8 and my brother was 10, he got me into a life long love of sewing, he showed be how to spin a bobbin, how the foot peddle works, made sure I knew not to put my finger to close to the needle, what all the pieces in the drawer were for, how to mend seems, how to hem pants etc. To this day he is great at sewing and even makes amazing Halloween costumes for his kids. He also built them a tree house with heat and lighting lol. I don't know why the other woman who commented made your comment into a feminist thing. How on earth would she know whether or not you include women in your conversations or not?
I've come across so many homemade items in thrift stores, some with understitching and without, and I couldn't figure out why the ones with were so much nicer than the ones without. I also couldn't figure out why mine weren't laying like I wanted them to; what a huge difference a single line of stitching you won't even see makes!
I am 72 Years old, and have made clothes since I was 12, and only NOW do I know how to understitch! Thank you so much. I can now choose if I want to topstitch or not. I avoided sewing anything but casual daywear looks for this reason. Thanks again, your newest fan, Anna Z G.
@annagunza9589 I love your comment! I just turned 71, and started sewing in 4H when I was about 14. I never even heard of understitching until seeing Evelyn Wood's video here. What a break! Another new (and grateful) fan!
My grandmother (born 1894) taught me with "old school" values in sewing. She would never have considered skipping any step. The art of sewing is best for perfectionists...and the results are so satisfying!! Understitching is one of my sewing faves.
But your grandmother was also TAUGHT by somebody, probably her mother or grandmother, or possibly in a home ec class at the very least (when's the last time you heard of one of THOSE being taught in a public school?). These days, sadly, young women are NOT taught to do "womanly" things, and if they want to learn to sew they have to figure it out on their own. So like she said in the video, a beginner is first probably going to be confused and not understand WHAT it is, then maybe find an overcomplicated explanation and either still be confused or be overwhelmed, or not get the importance. This video is really great -- shows the reason as well as how easy it actually is!
I had a grandmother who was a professional seamtress but she never taught my sister and I anything. She was born later than your own (maybe about 10yrs).
@@angelbear_og I think you are spot-on. My mother learned to sew from her mother, who sewed (and took in ironing) to support her family, and I'll bet my grandma knew about understitching. She made all her daughters' clothes, who were dressed beautifully with big bows in their hair right through the Depression. My high school never offered Home Ec, and I was too much a snot to take a class like that anyway. My loss!
@@angelbear_og my grandma had sewing class* in school, she's not the best at teaching it but I got a lot of basic stuff just watching her work. I kinda wish that would have been an option too take in middle school instead of whatever the drawing teacher was doing, it counts as "artistic" but is actually useful 😒
It's funny, years ago I bought a dress from Walmart that was super cute, but was missing understitching, and so the lining kept rolling over. I put up with it for a year until I needed something to wear for a wedding, so I showed it to my mum, asking her to fix it. She graciously rescued me, not just by under stitching but reinforcing it, tightening the gathers, and taking in the shoulder straps. I owe her so much, but thanks to videos like this, in the future I can rescue myself :)
I can honestly say that in my 50 plus years of garment sewing I have never come across a pattern instruction that said to understitch. It is eye opening and I will absolutely do this from now on.
I've only been sewing for... (does the math) 39 years? And, same. I've never before seen anything about understitching. I think I've seen garments that *were* understitched, but it never occurred to me that was a particular step in making anything (or what it was doing for the garments where it had been done).
Same here! 50 years ago I started sewing garments on my mother's old manual treadle Singer. I stopped sewing altogether in my twenties and just now (age 63) have taken it up again (on a new machine - and wow), and today I completed my first ever understitching on a lined bodice. It is lovely!
@@mounthoodsts weird! I've been sewing for the last two years and almost every garment pattern I've sewn has had understitching in it. And every time I have to google it for a refresher on how to do it 🤣
I am attempting to make my first dress. I just wanted to say how helpful your video instruction is. I am finding that the fact you explain _why_ a technique is important is proving invaluable to me. Just wanted to say thanks!
My grandmother and Aunt taught me to sew and they always stressed understitching. I had not thought of using the zipper foot - that will make it so much easier even though I have been garment sewing for 50 years.
Hi Jacqueline ...... I was commenting on this page, when I came across yours and all what you just said in your comment is great and amazing. Jacqueline I will like us to be friends, This is my Gmail raymondgogolf@gmail.com you can text me sorry for comment on Public stuff. please the gmail is only for Jacqueline kindly text me on this gmail if that is okay with you? I hope to hear from you soon.....God bless you.🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺
A nice tip for clipping the curves is to stagger the clips or V notches between the two (or more) fabrics in the seamline. Each layer gets about the same number of clips or notches so it will still lie just as flat - but being staggered across the layers the thickness of the seam doesn't have sudden transitions from much thicker to much thinner areas. Even where there are just two fabric layers being seamed unstaggered clips have variances in thickness for the understitching where it goes from one layer of fabric to three and back to one again as the clips or notches spread apart. By staggering them you'll only vary from two to three to two layers thick again - much smoother. Basically it does the same job as grading seam allowances but it's the clips/notches equivalent.
As someone who is only just dipping their toes into sewing, (I got tired of fast fashion, because it never fits!) these kinds of videos are amazing! I've yet to start a pattern that requires under stitching, but I certainly won't skip it in the future!
I hope that you never tire of offering up the Behind the Seams details, since this is the framework that builds a beautiful finished garment. So, thank you very much!
Hi! I am from Peru, just turned 18 and started my sewing journey in times of economical crisis so I decided to make my own clothes. I must say I love your channel so much, just discovered a few days ago but it helped me a lot really, thank you and keep the good work ;)
How exciting to be just starting on yoy sewing journey! I'm glad you found my channel too! As I have many videos that can help you! What are sewing first??
Arantza M - your English is very good. And I think learning to create your own clothes will not only help you survive the economic crisis but it will give pleasure and satisfaction. It’s so worth learning!
Mind. Blown. I learned how to sew at 5 years old and nearly 30 years later I'm committing to picking it back up. Thank you for the tips and refreshers!
You are so right: when you understand why you do something it makes all the difference in the word! It’s much less frustrating if you find it hard or complicated when you know in the end it’s worth it. Thank you for sparing us beginners the mistake of skipping this step. Love your videos!
@@conniemartinez3173 I wish more people understood this. I'm told "why are you questioning me" or "stop asking so many questions" I just want to understand why you're saying what you're saying. For this reason I try really hard to let my kids ask as many questions as they want. It gets tiresome and I do give limits when I can't answer as many but they ask really great questions now (6 and 3.5yo)
I am an understitcher. I was taught this technique from the beginning. I have noticed that modern patterns do not always give this step anymore. Another reason to preread your directions and add notes! It makes such a difference in beautifully handmade versus the dreaded homemade looking.
Yeah, my nice new machine has a little area for the feet there, but they're all in a ziplock - or they'd be on the floor. I want a nice little drawer, instead!
I too learned the hard way. My grandmother taught me the correct way,but I didn't understand that some o the small steps were important. One garment. I made the arm holes and neckline looked home made . I asked my grandma why? She told me without even picking up the garment that I was trying to take shortcuts And that was what would happen. If I wanted it to look cheap and I'll made them be in a rush and take shortcuts . It was my choice. I have never forgotten that if it is worth my time and money...it's worth my best work! Thank you for showing the difference between a well made garment and a garment that looks like it has seen better days
I’m the type that sewed by instinct during high school (no sewing books at all) but quit because my garments weren’t behaving as I wanted (e.g. the low rise woven skirt waistband (hip band?) kept stretching, which now I know is because it needed to be reinforced). Now, watching your and other sewist’s videos, I’m learning so much that I’m finally understanding why things went so wrong. Demystifying sewing is giving me confidence that it’s something I can do. I’m going to see more of your videos before going back into sewing for the first time. It’s really important to know theory before attempting practical application.
Yes!!!! I totally agree! You need to know why and understand why your doing these things, then it makes sense why things didn't work, and you know what to do differently next time!
I made a mistake on a circle skirt. I got both a shirt and the skirt out of one length of material. Great. Except that I sewed the shirt first. Not bad in itself, but it was to the detriment of the skirt. I should have stay stitched the waist curve on the skirt before setting it aside. Moving the pieces a few times meant that the curve cut on the bias stretched. A lot. I tried to hide it with gathers into the waistband. As my daughter pointed out, it looks like its too small for me even though its the right size.
@@michellebyrom6551 , you can take it apart, wet the fabric to reset the weave, lay flat to dry (careful not to stretch it), then do it right this time. I’ve had lots of experience last August, undoing everything and resetting the rayon fabric. I wish I knew about staystitching then.
Thank you so much for this. I am a beginner, and have watched *so* many videos trying to understand understitching. This is the FIRST one that makes any sense!!! What a great teacher you are!
I’m making my top for my brothers wedding that’s coming up and I have the step to understitch in the pattern that I am using. I was about to skip the step until I thought “I should watch some videos on what understitching is” and watching this video made me do the understitching for my garment. So, thank you so much for being the amazing creator you are, I appreciate your work and I am so happy I found you on UA-cam.
Yes! Stay stitching, clipping curves and corners, grading seam allowances. All these little details you think you can skip but small details make a big difference in the finished garment. ESPECIALLY at front necklines which is where people see the most (close up) when they are talking to you. It's the closest bit to your face. Not the place to cut corners.
I don't know what this is and would love another video like this, the why to do it makes all the difference for me remembering things like this and my confidence to tackle more complex things 😊
Nicole Mitchell stay stitching is when you sew along a seam so it doesn’t stretch or move. It’s similar to thread marking the seams but you don’t remove the thread after sewing. It’s very helpful along neck and armholes.
Watched this a few days ago, and decided to give understitching a go. Today, I finished a dress and I am THRILLED with how nicely it turned out! The neckline is crisp, and the pockets aren't escaping! You have changed how I sew.
I have been sewing 67 years and I never knew about this! My grandmother, born in the 1800s, taught me on her Featherweight, which I still have and use...for the buttonholer. She did a LOT of basting and handwork as she sewed. I always press as I go, and I clip curves to get them to lay flat. Definitely going to add understitching. I also use a clapper when I press seams as I am sewing. I am one of your Vintage Sewing School students. Even after sewing over 60 years, I started at the beginning. I am currently in the Use Patterns section..amazing how much I am learning, making my 50s shirtwaist dress. You are the best! And, congratulations or your good health.
This is exactly the video I needed. Thank you!! I just came across understitching in a pattern and, yes, my first thought was “…hm, I think I’ll skip it…” precisely because I didn’t know how to execute it well and I wasn’t convinced it would make that much of a difference. So grateful to have it explained so well!
I recently learned under-stitching and it has changed my sewing life!!! I am currently going through all of my previous garments and under stitching them all. It makes such a huge difference!
That must be hard to do with a finished garment. It's usually one of the 'middle steps' because you can get to the seam allowances better before the item is totally finished.
everytime i watch this video i go “oh yes i completely get this” and have a perfect understanding and as soon as i close the tab i forget and so begins the endless cycle
I've been sewing for over 40 years now, and yes, I understitch! No, of course I didn't when I started as a teen. I'm more patient now and take the time to do these little steps because it makes the finished product look SO much better. Thanks for the video!!
I consider myself lucky to have had a Mother who sewed everything from clothing to lined draperies; I was in 4-H as a child; and I had a wonderful Home Economics teacher in high school. However, about 40 years ago when I started quilting, I stopped sewing clothing. Well, having found you and several other women (like Bernadette Banner, Rachel Maksy, etc) on UA-cam, I am starting sewing clothing again (at the ripe old age of 76). Since I haven't sewn clothing for so long, your videos are so inspiring and informative! Keep on making them, please!
So, I'm new to sewing and had no idea this was a thing! I am enjoying learning! I work on an old Singer 15-91, so straight stitch is all I can do. Learning these little things is awesome! Thank you.
Dearest Evelyn, My wife and I think your smiling face is adorable. We like to watch together. Very glad that I joined your peeps. I've cut and tailored for 25 years, but never understood understitching. I watched this a few weeks ago, but I've only just gotten to a coat, for my wife, that wants understitching. Watching again for the practical, as opposed to abstract, application to my project. Finally doing a muslin first. Darn lucky thing. Still trying to dope it out, but your video is a major help. Cheers
I'm an understitcher (mother taught me). I think skipping this step has a lot to do with sewists not liking facings. They would rather use bias binding because they find facings don't lie flat. Thank you for spreading the understitch love!
I see a lot of youtube channels (mostly self-taught sewists) who try to do simple hems on necklines. On a curve, with non stretchy fabric. They don't even use bias binding, or facing, or lining. Just roll over the edge and mash it with an iron (sometimes even skipping the iron). The hems almost always come out twisted and puckered and awful. I've even seem people try to do a rolled him on a sweetheart neckline- two curves plus an inside point! You just can't press an inside curve into a flat hem. It defies physics. A facing would be so much easier, and yet people refuse to learn established sewing methods because they think it's ' too hard'. It's the opposite! Trying to re-invent everything from scratch is much harder and takes so long and so much frustration. Maybe after 20 years of trial and error (mostly error) they could get to the same level of proficiency that another person will be on their second year of sewing because they learned from established methods.
The sewing instructor (TV/books, etc) Sandra Betzina suggested once making the facings longer (vertical) by about an inch or so because it gives more weight and direction to help facings lie flat. That also can be more comfy to wear.
Now I understand what is wrong with the neckline of my lovely dress & that’s the reason why I don’t wear it . Thank you for saving not just my dress but my sanity too.
I didn't know the name but I have thought of this method as being crucial when wanting a clean crisp finish. I'm still very new to sewing and it's good to have the proper vocabulary for different techniques. Thank you!
I'm 67 and started learning to sew when I was probably 10. Mom had a hand in getting me started. I actually made clothes for my siblings even before I was in high school. Because of how long ago I learned to sew, I learned the correct methods. So obviously, I did plenty of under-stitching as well as stay-stitching. My hems were always hand sewn to make sure they were invisible and that the hem width layed smoothly. Knowing why you need to do a step really helps when learning how, so great job on that. It's been quite some time since I've sewn anything, so I'm glad I found you to remind me how some things are done. I'm getting my sewing/crafting room set up soon and seeing refresher videos makes it more likely that I'm sew clothing again and account for that activity in my room set up. Thank you!
Thank you for this! I took tailoring in college but over the years have forgotten so much. I am re discovering my love of sewing AND mending to my husbands total delight. Seriously! I have to giggle at my family’s amazement as I remove items fro the trash/bin and get more life out of them. “Under stitching” had me stumped for a minute but before I could research it, you answered my question! ❤️
Thanks Evelyn for this video! I've only been sewing garments for 1.5 years. When I would see understitching in a pattern, I would always have to Google it, and then struggle to visualize it. I finally paid for a monthly subscription to live sewing broadcasts that included various sewing techniques. The presenters happened to have filmed a partial episode on understitching as part of finishing hems on pants! Totally unexpected. When I came across your video, I immediately saved it to my playlists under the category: Garment Construction. I so wished this vid was available a year ago - LOL! I definitely enjoy your entire UA-cam channel! Sincerely - Thank You for your passion in garment sewing and sewing instruction!
Wow!!! I agree steps are skipped because they aren't understood. Thanks for showing this. I've never had to understitch yet as my ribbon skirts dont call for it. But in the future if other garments call for it I know what and why. Much appreciated! I'd love to join your school but I have very very little spare time with 3 kids so it'd be pointless.
Where has this video been all my life? I have never even heard of understitching despite sewing since I was a little kid. This technique would have saved several of my failed projects. Thank you so much!
I have been sewing for probably 30 years, I have never heard of this, and oh my goodness!!!! Where has it been my whole life? No more nasty top stitching to flatten lined items!
My dear mum was a dressmaker for the fashion houses back when they were located on Foveaux St in Surry Hills. She would try to teach me to sew, when I was a little girl but it never interested me at the time. Now that she has passed, I have been wanting to reconnect with the things she loved and I am wanting to begin sewing. Her lessons are vague in my memory (over 35 years ago) so your videos are helping me remember her lessons. Thank you and I am so happy I found your channel. ❤
My life has been a lie until now! Understitching!!!! I can't stop smiling, now I understand why my garments don't look as neat as I want them to. Thank you! I really appreciate the way you explained it.
I love learning things I never knew I needed. I still haven't started on any of the patterns yet, still reading...well trying. But, I will know how to understitch if come across it. Thank you.
I learned sewing in school "Home Ec" many moons ago. I am so thankful for that teacher. We learned stay stitching and many other techniques that I just do automatically. Thought I was just being an old fuddy fuddy because some steps are overlooked in the modern ways. I love seeing more attention to details again, making sure inside is pretty too.
nana stevens I wish I had had home ec, beyond threading the machine, straight lines, and clipping curves/corners I have been relying on experimentation. Slowly learning, but definitely taking the long way around.
It's not always that the first video on a search is what you need, but I got lucky. Why, before and after, how, extra tips to make it easier. 10/10 thank you
I was hoping you would show making the understitching on a curved neckline with lining. Do you slash the curve before stitching or after? What about a facing? Interfacing?
I normally slash the curve before understitching so that I can iron it flat to the lining fabric, then I understitch. I don't know if that's the"correct" answer, but it's never failed me.
Hi personally I would snip the curve before. Also if you have a 'stitch in the ditch' foot j...the one with a metal bit dipping to the middle of the foot images.app.goo.gl/tmUht8RqiB3rzJq1A) it really helps. Edit sorry I should have said to.mover the needle position to which ever in the inner side..
The seam allowance is sewn first, trim the seam allowance back to half it's value and then understitched. Clip to the understitching to release the tension on the remaining seam allowance but doesn't allow the neckline or armhole to lengthen or stretch out of shape (gaping).
You glorious soul. I'm a novice, and had never heard of understitching until I saw this video earlier today. . This evening, I'm making a hooded costume cloak/cape from thrifted curtains. Kind of nice, thick fabric with a weird, cheap silver "star" print. So wizard cape it is! I decided to use understitching on the hood/hood lining--the difference is amazing. I walked away from the iron to come thank you. Seriously, I'm so impressed with myself! "Thank you, I made it myself." (gloat)
I never knew about understitching until I saw this video. It was a revelation. Now I have watched the staystitching video. Wow! How many more revelations are in store for me, Ms Wood? Teach me EVERYTHING!
It is the Holy Grail! I´ve nerver ever heard before, now I understand, why some works are looking "homemade" and I hate it. Thank you so much for your education, it is so important to follow your tips to make every sewing more professional!
Thank you for this video. I'm sewing a dress and just the other day considered skipping this step. I couldnt for the life of me get the facing to lay down, so i sucked it up and did it!!! What a difference!! You're right!! Never skip this step!!!
Marie Venezia Hi Marie ...... I was commenting on this page, when I came across yours and all what you just said in your comment is great and amazing. Marie I will like us to be friends, This is my Gmail raymondgogolf@gmail.com you can text me sorry for comment on Public stuff. please the gmail is only for Marie kindly text me on this gmail if that is okay with you? I hope to hear from you soon.....God bless you.🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺
This is the first video I’ve watched that has actually clearly taught me what understitching is and made the tutorial part suuuuper simple! Thank you so much for making this!
I wish I had seen this before I made my 4 grandchildren each a complete new wardrobe lol I have so much to learn. I've been top stitching everything! I think I'll go binge watch ALL of your videos before I touch my sewing machine again!
I do the understitching. I have been sewing since I was 9. My mother told me she would let me use her elec sewing machine after I mastered sewing set-in sleeves in my Barbie doll clothes by hand. I went on to take every sewing/home-ec class in school, learning how to make lined tailored blazers, and sew on ultra suede fabrics. After seeing my beautiful creations and making all my own clothes, my dad bought me my own Nechi sewing machine for my birthday in 1972. I sewed & did alterations on & off for years, but my favorite sewing was making home decor- duvet covers, window treatments, & to the floor tablecloths. My mother taught me how to measure for & make lined pleated draperies in the 70's. If you can do that, you can sew anything.
I have literally been sewing since i was a little kid - but pretty much spent all my time just throwing together little creations and having fun figuring out how to put stuff together. From as far back as I can remember, my mother was always sewing outfits for me and my siblings and doing lots of costuming. She let me play with all of her supplies and use her sewing machine to make barbie clothes, pillows and such. The first time I tried a pattern for an apron, I ended up giving up for lack of knowledge of vocabulary AND my machine breaking down. Super frustrating! I finally realized how much I could learn on youtube and got my hands on a good machine my mother gave me:) My mother never realized how valuable her knowledge was, and I guess she was waiting on me to get serious about sewing to come ask her all the questions. She and her 5 sisters started sewing all of their clothes when they were kids and are from a time when the inside of a garment had to look as good as the outside. I finally completed a vintage pattern of a Pound Puppy and am absolutely obsessed with perfecting my skills. I am so inspired by the amount of care and intention that goes into the finest pieces and I love this channel! My mother told me....DON'T SKIP ANY STEPS!!! I'm so glad to find incredible seamstresses like you who can share the value in following EVERY STEP! Thank you so very much....you are helping to save an art that seems to be fading away, and I intend to take on a student when I become proficient!
Wow!! Evelyn - you are AMAZING!! I never understood what that meant and reading pattern instructions (and understanding those pictures) makes me want to pull my hair out. Finally, I understand this! I'm a visual learner and this made so much sense! THANK YOU!! And I'm enjoying your school! Thank you for sharing your abundant sewing knowledge with us 😁
My mother sewed all my garments from the time I was born up until I hit middle school… but I remember she always did top stitch instead of under stitch… and when she taught me to sew, she never mentioned anything about under stitching. I’m going to send her this video, because she makes beautiful pieces, they just look homemade instead of hand crafted, and I think this is the only reason why since every other tip I’ve seen of yours has been taught to me by her. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. They’re infinitely helpful! (Mostly as reminders for me, but also for gems like this where you show how to do these elevated techniques)
One more time am so amazed by the perfection of your work !!!(Of course I have never understitched and without your video I wouldn't have imagined such a technique. Your garments must be without one single fault
Miss Evelyn! I understitched today, and it turned out SO nice! You were right! It was SO good that I squealed and did a happy dance and freaked out my roommate!
I'm newish to apparel sewing so I haven't encountered this yet, but I make a lot of masks, and in some patterns a bit of the lining shows up when viewing from the right side. I think that understitching would be a solution to this problem and will try it the next time I make masks. I've actually topstitched on masks that haven't instructed to do so but now I'm thinking that the look I wanted would have been better achieved by understitching. Thank you so much for this explanation and demonstration!
Came to UA-cam to figure out how to under stitch because I no longer want to skip steps and your video was in my recommendations. It was like the universe knew what I needed haha 💞
Evelyn, You’re a awesome teacher. You explained this so clear. Thank you. Could you please make a video on how to replace a zipper on winter jacket? I tried two times, but it was not flat but wrinkles. I pined before sewing. I don’t know why. Thank you.
Thank you so much for making an instructional video without 100000 jumpcuts. I really appreciate youtubers who can say 2 sentences in a row without starting over ^^
My grandma was a wonderful seamstress and while I didn’t get to have her teach me to sew, I always remembered her rule: the inside of the garment should look as nice as the outside of the garment. It makes a huge difference when you keep all the seams neat and tidy and under stitching is an invaluable skill!
When I first started sewing, I didn't understitch. I always do now. Just recently watched a video where the lady says she doesn't understitch, but only presses the seams. She proceeded to press the heck out of those areas. Guess she does that every time after washing her garments.
I made my dad a renfaire costume. I gave the the ‘historical’ option of pressing and the ‘anachronistic’ option of under stitching or top stitching (depending on what was doable). Ya, not pressing wins.
Oh wow! I've been sewing nonstop for about a year now, I've only had a couple of patterns that mentioned understitching and I was so confused and of course, skipped it. Your video makes so much sense!!! I make a lot of girls vintage style dresses that call for topstitching (around the necklines). Can I understitch instead of topstitching on patterns? Or do I need to do both? I love the look of the understitch. ❤
I am just an occasional diy sewing person, I watch your videos sometimes, and yesterday I was changing a neckline of my old blazer. I remembered your tutorial on understitching and decided to try it. Originally the blazer didn't have understitching and was rolling around the fold even after pressing. When I finished the understitching... I mean it looks sooo much better, cleaner and more put together 😊 thank you so much for the tutorial!
I read about understitching from sewing books and I’ve been dealing with the seam wrong. Explains why it hasn’t been working so well for me. Usually they emphasize where you sew and not the other factors like where the seam should fall and if you should grade and trim or notch and trim the seam before sewing. Or maybe my brain doesn’t remember some getting that detailed.
I think this is hard to learn from books! Grading seams and clipping curves applies to all seams sewn on curves, so I guess it is sort of a seperate thing that you do, then understitching comes after! 😀
I was mystified when you showed your example of understitching. I had seen it on professional garments before, but I never knew what it was or how it was done. My mouth actually fell open when you explained how to do it. Such a straightforward technique for a truly amazing result.
When I first learned to sew way back…1962! It was called “stay stitching” and every top called for this! I wondered why people stopped doing this and patterns did not seem to mention then one day I heard the term “under stitching” not sure I’ve ever seen on a pattern but I think it absolutely makes such a HUGE difference! That neck facing or wherever just literally tucks itself in place!
Great tips! Unrelated question: How on Earth do your nails look so perfectly polished with all of the work you do?! Or varnished, maybe? I think our terms are different in the US and Australia.
Her nails were incredibly lovely!!! It's possible she has dip nails, which are made with colored powder so the color never wears away and always looks fresh throughout the life of the manicure.
You have now solved my frustration with lining! I enjoy making simple bags, purses, etc and love to put a bright accent lining in them...but NOT when it roll to the outside!! I will now become an under stitcher!
I have been guilty of skipping that step in the past. The reason I skipped it was because it is usually around a neckline or sleeve opening and the curves have been clipped and I thought it would be too hard to get all those clipped bits sewn to the lining the way they should be. I knew that it would make the facing or lining roll to the inside better and be more professional looking. I guess you could say I've been lazy.
So, have you always understitched? Or have you been skipping it?😀
If your looking for a unique sewing leaning experience, come join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
I just love how you explain everything 💕
I have understitched if the pattern called for it. But I had to look it up the first time as I had no clue what it was, despite two years of sewing in home ec. Of course that was more than two decades ago, and I’ve never been an especially accomplished sewist. Can top stitching achieve the same effect?
I like how top-stitching does almost the same thing. This just doesn't show the stitches, which would be preferable in some applications. I, personally, like the look of top-stitching but on some types of clothing it wouldn't look as "formal". Top-stitching tends to have an "everyday" look.
I don't think I realised that the seam allowance needed to be stitched to the facing. This makes much more sense, and I read up and pay attention to instructions, thanks this is a great help!
Dear Evelyn, many thanks, this is very useful video! I usually use this presser foot - sewing-saloon.com/image/cache/catalog/Lapka%20Dom/Lapka%20PO-7001/Lapka-PO-7001(2www.sewing-saloon.com)-1024x1024-product_popup.jpg Sorry for the link, as I don't know it's name. It is really helpful for understitching
A brief moment of silence for all the projects I ever sewed that looked beautiful until I unnecessarily top stitched them 😢
😂😂😂😂😂 I'm going to laugh all day this! But we've all done this! ❤
Great comment, because just today I was sewing a blouse and thought about top stitching here and top stitching there and wisely restrained myself. Reason you mentioned! Lol
Guilty as charged. But in my defense I can top stitch with the best of them.
have you been secretly spying on me?!
That's totally what I do 😂
I sooo feel you 😭😂
I learned to sew as a costuming student, i.e., down and dirty. No complicated closures. No extra stitching or tight stitching because everything needed to be taken apart and/or altered constantly, I’m now filling in the gaps in my education because all the world is actually NOT a stage. This is very helpful. Thank you.
I was going to say that that's pretty funny =] Now I realize that MANY of us are "down and dirty" sewers with: jeans repair; taking up a cheap piece of clothing for just wearing around the house; fixing other things around the house. Yeah, I ALSO need this professional info also when it comes to clothes I actually want people to see!
LOL - down and dirty! hahaha I grew up in a costuming household, so I know what that means! I have literally hand stitched a garment onto my friend when we were at school and her skirt started ripping!
@@jackiej5319 there's nothing like a costume emergency to get the creative juices flowing!
Same!!! Costume majors!
This is also me! I’ve sewn a zipper onto a broken zipper before because it wouldn’t be noticed on stage 🤦🏻♀️ Now I’m a stage costumer who needs to up her still set!
I would say a key factor you did not touch on, is garment maintenance. Not only will the garment look so much better after being sewn an pressed, but in any wash and wear fabric, it could completely eliminate pressing in the future. If you staystitch and understitch, your garment is always going to look better after washing. That's a very compelling reason to spend a little extra time while making something, knowing it will be much easier to maintain!
And I would add, use a clapper in the iron as you go process
And I would add, use a clapper when practicing the iron-as-you go process
I came here to say that understitching will save you ironing time and burned fingers in the future.
Thank you for including the "gents" portion of your intro! It might not seem that big of a deal, but to me, it adds a bit of normality to men sewing.
Hi Matt, take a look at the Pattern Review community. Men are welcome :) tho I will admit they're still sadly a minority. sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?today=1&misc=1
This honestly explained understiching better than the pattern did
Now that you understand how it feels, I hope you'll take that to heart and include women everywhere else in society and encourage other men to do the same because it does feel nice.
@@valeskavictoria1278
Where are you from? In my experience people usually say "ladies and gentlemen" unless they are saying something that's specifically being said to one or the other eg: "to all the ladies here" or "to all the men in the room. Also take note that when people say "ladies and gents", "ladies" always comes first. What made you assume he doesn't do that anyway?
When I was 8 and my brother was 10, he got me into a life long love of sewing, he showed be how to spin a bobbin, how the foot peddle works, made sure I knew not to put my finger to close to the needle, what all the pieces in the drawer were for, how to mend seems, how to hem pants etc. To this day he is great at sewing and even makes amazing Halloween costumes for his kids. He also built them a tree house with heat and lighting lol. I don't know why the other woman who commented made your comment into a feminist thing. How on earth would she know whether or not you include women in your conversations or not?
oooh. so this is actually the difference between 'cheaply made' and 'well made'. i need to learn to not skip this step.
that what i thought. now explained what is the difference between china websites pictures (wish,aliexpress..) and what you actually get.
I've come across so many homemade items in thrift stores, some with understitching and without, and I couldn't figure out why the ones with were so much nicer than the ones without. I also couldn't figure out why mine weren't laying like I wanted them to; what a huge difference a single line of stitching you won't even see makes!
I am 72 Years old, and have made clothes since I was 12, and only NOW do I know how to understitch! Thank you so much. I can now choose if I want to topstitch or not. I avoided sewing anything but casual daywear looks for this reason. Thanks again, your newest fan, Anna Z G.
@annagunza9589 I love your comment! I just turned 71, and started sewing in 4H when I was about 14. I never even heard of understitching until seeing Evelyn Wood's video here. What a break! Another new (and grateful) fan!
77 here, and also made my first dress when I was 12. I owe it all to my sainted grandmother.
My grandmother (born 1894) taught me with "old school" values in sewing. She would never have considered skipping any step. The art of sewing is best for perfectionists...and the results are so satisfying!! Understitching is one of my sewing faves.
But your grandmother was also TAUGHT by somebody, probably her mother or grandmother, or possibly in a home ec class at the very least (when's the last time you heard of one of THOSE being taught in a public school?). These days, sadly, young women are NOT taught to do "womanly" things, and if they want to learn to sew they have to figure it out on their own. So like she said in the video, a beginner is first probably going to be confused and not understand WHAT it is, then maybe find an overcomplicated explanation and either still be confused or be overwhelmed, or not get the importance. This video is really great -- shows the reason as well as how easy it actually is!
I had a grandmother who was a professional seamtress but she never taught my sister and I anything. She was born later than your own (maybe about 10yrs).
@@angelbear_og I think you are spot-on. My mother learned to sew from her mother, who sewed (and took in ironing) to support her family, and I'll bet my grandma knew about understitching. She made all her daughters' clothes, who were dressed beautifully with big bows in their hair right through the Depression. My high school never offered Home Ec, and I was too much a snot to take a class like that anyway. My loss!
@@angelbear_og my grandma had sewing class* in school, she's not the best at teaching it but I got a lot of basic stuff just watching her work.
I kinda wish that would have been an option too take in middle school instead of whatever the drawing teacher was doing, it counts as "artistic" but is actually useful 😒
It's funny, years ago I bought a dress from Walmart that was super cute, but was missing understitching, and so the lining kept rolling over. I put up with it for a year until I needed something to wear for a wedding, so I showed it to my mum, asking her to fix it. She graciously rescued me, not just by under stitching but reinforcing it, tightening the gathers, and taking in the shoulder straps. I owe her so much, but thanks to videos like this, in the future I can rescue myself :)
That is a wonderful story!
I can honestly say that in my 50 plus years of garment sewing I have never come across a pattern instruction that said to understitch. It is eye opening and I will absolutely do this from now on.
Wow never!!! I'm readout surprised! A new trick for to try 😄!
I've only been sewing for... (does the math) 39 years? And, same. I've never before seen anything about understitching. I think I've seen garments that *were* understitched, but it never occurred to me that was a particular step in making anything (or what it was doing for the garments where it had been done).
Same here! 50 years ago I started sewing garments on my mother's old manual treadle Singer. I stopped sewing altogether in my twenties and just now (age 63) have taken it up again (on a new machine - and wow), and today I completed my first ever understitching on a lined bodice. It is lovely!
@@mounthoodsts weird! I've been sewing for the last two years and almost every garment pattern I've sewn has had understitching in it. And every time I have to google it for a refresher on how to do it 🤣
I've been sewing for 50 years and had never heard of this. Thanks for the tip and for your willingness to share your precious knowledge.
I am attempting to make my first dress. I just wanted to say how helpful your video instruction is. I am finding that the fact you explain _why_ a technique is important is proving invaluable to me. Just wanted to say thanks!
My grandmother and Aunt taught me to sew and they always stressed understitching. I had not thought of using the zipper foot - that will make it so much easier even though I have been garment sewing for 50 years.
Yes! Zipper foot. How useful that will be. Plus easier to see where you are in relation to the edge.
Yeah. Brilliant tip.
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A nice tip for clipping the curves is to stagger the clips or V notches between the two (or more) fabrics in the seamline. Each layer gets about the same number of clips or notches so it will still lie just as flat - but being staggered across the layers the thickness of the seam doesn't have sudden transitions from much thicker to much thinner areas.
Even where there are just two fabric layers being seamed unstaggered clips have variances in thickness for the understitching where it goes from one layer of fabric to three and back to one again as the clips or notches spread apart. By staggering them you'll only vary from two to three to two layers thick again - much smoother. Basically it does the same job as grading seam allowances but it's the clips/notches equivalent.
Sewing up a bootstrap dress form, and this tip for alternating the notches is amazing for the curved princess seams at the best! Thank you!!
@@beccam7298 I'm so glad you found it useful - thank you for trying it out and letting me know how it went! Happy stitchin' :-)
🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯
U just covered my 3-hour-class in 10 minutes.. thank you for the video. Clear explaination for a beginner like me.
🤣🤣 I'm glad you found so useful!
I learned to sew 40 years ago and I don't recall being told to sew the understitching to the seam allowance. Total game changer. Thank you for this. ❤
As someone who is only just dipping their toes into sewing, (I got tired of fast fashion, because it never fits!) these kinds of videos are amazing! I've yet to start a pattern that requires under stitching, but I certainly won't skip it in the future!
me too! i find clothing doesn't feel tailored to me for my height and my waist is always lower than a garment is made for. i feel your pain!
I hope that you never tire of offering up the Behind the Seams details, since this is the framework that builds a beautiful finished garment. So, thank you very much!
Hi! I am from Peru, just turned 18 and started my sewing journey in times of economical crisis so I decided to make my own clothes. I must say I love your channel so much, just discovered a few days ago but it helped me a lot really, thank you and keep the good work ;)
How exciting to be just starting on yoy sewing journey! I'm glad you found my channel too! As I have many videos that can help you! What are sewing first??
Your English is doing great. Very understandable. That's the important bit!
Your English is very good. Really.
Arantza M - your English is very good. And I think learning to create your own clothes will not only help you survive the economic crisis but it will give pleasure and satisfaction. It’s so worth learning!
Your English is better than most!
Mind. Blown. I learned how to sew at 5 years old and nearly 30 years later I'm committing to picking it back up. Thank you for the tips and refreshers!
You are so right: when you understand why you do something it makes all the difference in the word! It’s much less frustrating if you find it hard or complicated when you know in the end it’s worth it. Thank you for sparing us beginners the mistake of skipping this step. Love your videos!
Thanks for watching! 😀
Evelyn Wood no no, thank YOU for the great info!! I really appreciate your videos too, please keep them coming.
@@conniemartinez3173 I wish more people understood this. I'm told "why are you questioning me" or "stop asking so many questions" I just want to understand why you're saying what you're saying. For this reason I try really hard to let my kids ask as many questions as they want. It gets tiresome and I do give limits when I can't answer as many but they ask really great questions now (6 and 3.5yo)
I instantly smiled when you said good to see our smiley faces. Great energy and great teacher!
I am an understitcher. I was taught this technique from the beginning. I have noticed that modern patterns do not always give this step anymore. Another reason to preread your directions and add notes! It makes such a difference in beautifully handmade versus the dreaded homemade looking.
I have a cheap Brother machine, so when she opened that compartment with all the feet, my mouth hit the floor
I did the same thing
Same lol
I've got a lower-end Singer, and holy crap I've got machine envy lol.
Same lol.
Yeah, my nice new machine has a little area for the feet there, but they're all in a ziplock - or they'd be on the floor. I want a nice little drawer, instead!
I too learned the hard way. My grandmother taught me the correct way,but I didn't understand that some o the small steps were important. One garment. I made the arm holes and neckline looked home made . I asked my grandma why? She told me without even picking up the garment that I was trying to take shortcuts And that was what would happen. If I wanted it to look cheap and I'll made them be in a rush and take shortcuts . It was my choice. I have never forgotten that if it is worth my time and money...it's worth my best work! Thank you for showing the difference between a well made garment and a garment that looks like it has seen better days
Grandmas are the best.
The first time I understitched something I couldn't stop looking at it. It just looked so professional. I immediately fell in love with it
I’m the type that sewed by instinct during high school (no sewing books at all) but quit because my garments weren’t behaving as I wanted (e.g. the low rise woven skirt waistband (hip band?) kept stretching, which now I know is because it needed to be reinforced).
Now, watching your and other sewist’s videos, I’m learning so much that I’m finally understanding why things went so wrong. Demystifying sewing is giving me confidence that it’s something I can do.
I’m going to see more of your videos before going back into sewing for the first time. It’s really important to know theory before attempting practical application.
Yes!!!! I totally agree! You need to know why and understand why your doing these things, then it makes sense why things didn't work, and you know what to do differently next time!
I'm with you.
I made a mistake on a circle skirt. I got both a shirt and the skirt out of one length of material. Great. Except that I sewed the shirt first. Not bad in itself, but it was to the detriment of the skirt.
I should have stay stitched the waist curve on the skirt before setting it aside. Moving the pieces a few times meant that the curve cut on the bias stretched. A lot. I tried to hide it with gathers into the waistband.
As my daughter pointed out, it looks like its too small for me even though its the right size.
@@michellebyrom6551 , you can take it apart, wet the fabric to reset the weave, lay flat to dry (careful not to stretch it), then do it right this time. I’ve had lots of experience last August, undoing everything and resetting the rayon fabric. I wish I knew about staystitching then.
I've been sewing for a year and a half now, I don't know why i didn't find this channel before, covers everything I've been wondering about.
Evelyn - "It's lovely to see your smiling faces here again!"
Me while shoveling nachos in my mouth - "Hey girl!"
*crumbs go everywhere*
😂😂😂😂😂😂 I’m laying in bed shoveling chocolate in my mouth. Class all the way!!!! 😊😊
cereal for me
hahaha! love this comment
Cake for meee lol
This was by far the best comment!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you so much for this. I am a beginner, and have watched *so* many videos trying to understand understitching. This is the FIRST one that makes any sense!!! What a great teacher you are!
Thank you for showing the importance of this step! Armholes looked ragged amd now i know why! I wont skip again!
Aww I'm so glad you enjoyed it! I totally agree, once you see it, there's no skipping again! 😀
I’m making my top for my brothers wedding that’s coming up and I have the step to understitch in the pattern that I am using. I was about to skip the step until I thought “I should watch some videos on what understitching is” and watching this video made me do the understitching for my garment. So, thank you so much for being the amazing creator you are, I appreciate your work and I am so happy I found you on UA-cam.
May I suggest that stay-stitching is also a step many of us are tempted to skip? ;-)
Yes, I personally, think stay stitching is important also. I was taught in Jr High school.
Yes! Stay stitching, clipping curves and corners, grading seam allowances. All these little details you think you can skip but small details make a big difference in the finished garment. ESPECIALLY at front necklines which is where people see the most (close up) when they are talking to you. It's the closest bit to your face. Not the place to cut corners.
I don't know what this is and would love another video like this, the why to do it makes all the difference for me remembering things like this and my confidence to tackle more complex things 😊
Nicole Mitchell stay stitching is when you sew along a seam so it doesn’t stretch or move. It’s similar to thread marking the seams but you don’t remove the thread after sewing. It’s very helpful along neck and armholes.
Easing sleeves too
Watched this a few days ago, and decided to give understitching a go. Today, I finished a dress and I am THRILLED with how nicely it turned out! The neckline is crisp, and the pockets aren't escaping! You have changed how I sew.
I just bought my first machine so when I stumbled on this video I just added one more stitch to my list to learn, thank you for making this video
Congratulations!!!🎈🎉
I have been sewing 67 years and I never knew about this! My grandmother, born in the 1800s, taught me on her Featherweight, which I still have and use...for the buttonholer. She did a LOT of basting and handwork as she sewed. I always press as I go, and I clip curves to get them to lay flat. Definitely going to add understitching. I also use a clapper when I press seams as I am sewing. I am one of your Vintage Sewing School students. Even after sewing over 60 years, I started at the beginning. I am currently in the Use Patterns section..amazing how much I am learning, making my 50s shirtwaist dress. You are the best! And, congratulations or your good health.
I understitched the top half of my face masks. The lining doesn’t poke out. Thank you very much for this video
This video and this comment has really stepped up my mask sewing game. Thank you both!
I’m just starting to make masks; and this channel popped up on my YT feed today. Exactly what I needed to know!
That is literally what I was just thinking
This is exactly the video I needed. Thank you!! I just came across understitching in a pattern and, yes, my first thought was “…hm, I think I’ll skip it…” precisely because I didn’t know how to execute it well and I wasn’t convinced it would make that much of a difference. So grateful to have it explained so well!
I recently learned under-stitching and it has changed my sewing life!!! I am currently going through all of my previous garments and under stitching them all. It makes such a huge difference!
That must be hard to do with a finished garment. It's usually one of the 'middle steps' because you can get to the seam allowances better before the item is totally finished.
everytime i watch this video i go “oh yes i completely get this” and have a perfect understanding and as soon as i close the tab i forget and so begins the endless cycle
I've been sewing for over 40 years now, and yes, I understitch! No, of course I didn't when I started as a teen. I'm more patient now and take the time to do these little steps because it makes the finished product look SO much better. Thanks for the video!!
I consider myself lucky to have had a Mother who sewed everything from clothing to lined draperies; I was in 4-H as a child; and I had a wonderful Home Economics teacher in high school. However, about 40 years ago when I started quilting, I stopped sewing clothing. Well, having found you and several other women (like Bernadette Banner, Rachel Maksy, etc) on UA-cam, I am starting sewing clothing again (at the ripe old age of 76). Since I haven't sewn clothing for so long, your videos are so inspiring and informative! Keep on making them, please!
So, I'm new to sewing and had no idea this was a thing! I am enjoying learning! I work on an old Singer 15-91, so straight stitch is all I can do. Learning these little things is awesome! Thank you.
Dearest Evelyn, My wife and I think your smiling face is adorable. We like to watch together. Very glad that I joined your peeps.
I've cut and tailored for 25 years, but never understood understitching. I watched this a few weeks ago, but I've only just gotten to a coat, for my wife, that wants understitching. Watching again for the practical, as opposed to abstract, application to my project. Finally doing a muslin first. Darn lucky thing. Still trying to dope it out, but your video is a major help.
Cheers
I'm an understitcher (mother taught me). I think skipping this step has a lot to do with sewists not liking facings. They would rather use bias binding because they find facings don't lie flat. Thank you for spreading the understitch love!
Yes I think your right! And understitching helps those lay flat! 😀
I see a lot of youtube channels (mostly self-taught sewists) who try to do simple hems on necklines. On a curve, with non stretchy fabric. They don't even use bias binding, or facing, or lining. Just roll over the edge and mash it with an iron (sometimes even skipping the iron). The hems almost always come out twisted and puckered and awful. I've even seem people try to do a rolled him on a sweetheart neckline- two curves plus an inside point! You just can't press an inside curve into a flat hem. It defies physics. A facing would be so much easier, and yet people refuse to learn established sewing methods because they think it's ' too hard'. It's the opposite! Trying to re-invent everything from scratch is much harder and takes so long and so much frustration. Maybe after 20 years of trial and error (mostly error) they could get to the same level of proficiency that another person will be on their second year of sewing because they learned from established methods.
The sewing instructor (TV/books, etc) Sandra Betzina suggested once making the facings longer (vertical) by about an inch or so because it gives more weight and direction to help facings lie flat. That also can be more comfy to wear.
Now I understand what is wrong with the neckline of my lovely dress & that’s the reason why I don’t wear it . Thank you for saving not just my dress but my sanity too.
I didn't know the name but I have thought of this method as being crucial when wanting a clean crisp finish. I'm still very new to sewing and it's good to have the proper vocabulary for different techniques. Thank you!
I'm 67 and started learning to sew when I was probably 10. Mom had a hand in getting me started. I actually made clothes for my siblings even before I was in high school. Because of how long ago I learned to sew, I learned the correct methods. So obviously, I did plenty of under-stitching as well as stay-stitching. My hems were always hand sewn to make sure they were invisible and that the hem width layed smoothly.
Knowing why you need to do a step really helps when learning how, so great job on that. It's been quite some time since I've sewn anything, so I'm glad I found you to remind me how some things are done. I'm getting my sewing/crafting room set up soon and seeing refresher videos makes it more likely that I'm sew clothing again and account for that activity in my room set up. Thank you!
Thank you for this! I took tailoring in college but over the years have forgotten so much. I am re discovering my love of sewing AND mending to my husbands total delight. Seriously! I have to giggle at my family’s amazement as I remove items fro the trash/bin and get more life out of them. “Under stitching” had me stumped for a minute but before I could research it, you answered my question! ❤️
😀 I'm thrilled to hear it! And so excited that your gettinh back into sewing! You will have so much fun! I have plenty of videos to help you out!
I have been sewing for nearly five decades, and I NEVER KNEW ABOUT UNDERSTITCHING. Thanks to you I do now.
Thanks Evelyn for this video! I've only been sewing garments for 1.5 years. When I would see understitching in a pattern, I would always have to Google it, and then struggle to visualize it. I finally paid for a monthly subscription to live sewing broadcasts that included various sewing techniques. The presenters happened to have filmed a partial episode on understitching as part of finishing hems on pants! Totally unexpected. When I came across your video, I immediately saved it to my playlists under the category: Garment Construction. I so wished this vid was available a year ago - LOL! I definitely enjoy your entire UA-cam channel! Sincerely - Thank You for your passion in garment sewing and sewing instruction!
I HAVE BEEN UNDER STITCHING WRONG THIS WHOLE TIME. thank you for this video
You're not the only one!!
Wow!!! I agree steps are skipped because they aren't understood. Thanks for showing this. I've never had to understitch yet as my ribbon skirts dont call for it. But in the future if other garments call for it I know what and why. Much appreciated!
I'd love to join your school but I have very very little spare time with 3 kids so it'd be pointless.
I'm so glad you enjoyed it! I'd love to have you in class when your ready! 😀
Where has this video been all my life? I have never even heard of understitching despite sewing since I was a little kid. This technique would have saved several of my failed projects. Thank you so much!
You're welcome!! 😀😀
I have been sewing for probably 30 years, I have never heard of this, and oh my goodness!!!! Where has it been my whole life? No more nasty top stitching to flatten lined items!
Thank you for this clear explination, I'd been conflating understitching and top stitching, d'oh.
Your most welcome!! I'm glad that has helped clear it up, now next time you cross those terms you've got it! 😀
My dear mum was a dressmaker for the fashion houses back when they were located on Foveaux St in Surry Hills. She would try to teach me to sew, when I was a little girl but it never interested me at the time.
Now that she has passed, I have been wanting to reconnect with the things she loved and I am wanting to begin sewing. Her lessons are vague in my memory (over 35 years ago) so your videos are helping me remember her lessons. Thank you and I am so happy I found your channel. ❤
Thanks for the defining the language of sewing by showing us the process.
My life has been a lie until now! Understitching!!!! I can't stop smiling, now I understand why my garments don't look as neat as I want them to. Thank you! I really appreciate the way you explained it.
I love learning things I never knew I needed. I still haven't started on any of the patterns yet, still reading...well trying. But, I will know how to understitch if come across it.
Thank you.
Great!! I understitch on refashion ALL the time too!! It is one of the best finishing techniques for a neat edge!
I always forget about understitching! Thanks for the reminder.
I learned sewing in school "Home Ec" many moons ago. I am so thankful for that teacher. We learned stay stitching and many other techniques that I just do automatically. Thought I was just being an old fuddy fuddy because some steps are overlooked in the modern ways. I love seeing more attention to details again, making sure inside is pretty too.
nana stevens I wish I had had home ec, beyond threading the machine, straight lines, and clipping curves/corners I have been relying on experimentation. Slowly learning, but definitely taking the long way around.
It's not always that the first video on a search is what you need, but I got lucky. Why, before and after, how, extra tips to make it easier. 10/10 thank you
I was hoping you would show making the understitching on a curved neckline with lining. Do you slash the curve before stitching or after? What about a facing? Interfacing?
I would like the answer to this too please.
I normally slash the curve before understitching so that I can iron it flat to the lining fabric, then I understitch. I don't know if that's the"correct" answer, but it's never failed me.
I normally let the interfacing and the lining act as one piece, so I understitch the seam allowance to both the lining and facing fabric.
Hi personally I would snip the curve before. Also if you have a 'stitch in the ditch' foot j...the one with a metal bit dipping to the middle of the foot images.app.goo.gl/tmUht8RqiB3rzJq1A) it really helps. Edit sorry I should have said to.mover the needle position to which ever in the inner side..
The seam allowance is sewn first, trim the seam allowance back to half it's value and then understitched. Clip to the understitching to release the tension on the remaining seam allowance but doesn't allow the neckline or armhole to lengthen or stretch out of shape (gaping).
You glorious soul. I'm a novice, and had never heard of understitching until I saw this video earlier today. . This evening, I'm making a hooded costume cloak/cape from thrifted curtains. Kind of nice, thick fabric with a weird, cheap silver "star" print. So wizard cape it is! I decided to use understitching on the hood/hood lining--the difference is amazing. I walked away from the iron to come thank you. Seriously, I'm so impressed with myself! "Thank you, I made it myself." (gloat)
UA-cam is magic. I was just trying to figure out why my coat seam didn’t look right and this popped up in my recommendations.
I never knew about understitching until I saw this video. It was a revelation. Now I have watched the staystitching video. Wow! How many more revelations are in store for me, Ms Wood? Teach me EVERYTHING!
This was so helpful!!
o hai, big fan
I always find you watching the same videos as me Kat. I love your work.
Luv u :)
It is the Holy Grail! I´ve nerver ever heard before, now I understand, why some works are looking "homemade" and I hate it. Thank you so much for your education, it is so important to follow your tips to make every sewing more professional!
Thank you for this video. I'm sewing a dress and just the other day considered skipping this step. I couldnt for the life of me get the facing to lay down, so i sucked it up and did it!!! What a difference!! You're right!! Never skip this step!!!
Marie Venezia Hi Marie ...... I was commenting on this page, when I came across yours and all what you just said in your comment is great and amazing. Marie I will like us to be friends, This is my Gmail raymondgogolf@gmail.com you can text me sorry for comment on Public stuff. please the gmail is only for Marie kindly text me on this gmail if that is okay with you? I hope to hear from you soon.....God bless you.🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺
rip all my understitched projects. you’re so pleasing to listen to and i love the humbleness 🥺
This is the first video I’ve watched that has actually clearly taught me what understitching is and made the tutorial part suuuuper simple! Thank you so much for making this!
I've been sewing for over 10 years and I've never heard of understitching. Thank you so much!!!!
I wish I had seen this before I made my 4 grandchildren each a complete new wardrobe lol I have so much to learn. I've been top stitching everything! I think I'll go binge watch ALL of your videos before I touch my sewing machine again!
🤣🤣🤣
I do the understitching. I have been sewing since I was 9. My mother told me she would let me use her elec sewing machine after I mastered sewing set-in sleeves in my Barbie doll clothes by hand.
I went on to take every sewing/home-ec class in school, learning how to make lined tailored blazers, and sew on ultra suede fabrics. After seeing my beautiful creations and making all my own clothes, my dad bought me my own Nechi sewing machine for my birthday in 1972. I sewed & did alterations on & off for years, but my favorite sewing was making home decor- duvet covers, window treatments, & to the floor tablecloths. My mother taught me how to measure for & make lined pleated draperies in the 70's. If you can do that, you can sew anything.
This technique was instilled in my sister and I when my mother was teaching us to sew. A great refresher video.
OMG! I have seen the light! I never knew that's what understitching was. I will never skip this step going forward. Thank You!!
Evelyn, thank you SO MUCH! This is incredibly useful and easy to understand. I’m always delighted to see you have a new video.
😀😀 Wonderful!! I'm thrilled you found it useful and easy to follow! Thanks for always watching!
I have literally been sewing since i was a little kid - but pretty much spent all my time just throwing together little creations and having fun figuring out how to put stuff together. From as far back as I can remember, my mother was always sewing outfits for me and my siblings and doing lots of costuming. She let me play with all of her supplies and use her sewing machine to make barbie clothes, pillows and such. The first time I tried a pattern for an apron, I ended up giving up for lack of knowledge of vocabulary AND my machine breaking down. Super frustrating! I finally realized how much I could learn on youtube and got my hands on a good machine my mother gave me:) My mother never realized how valuable her knowledge was, and I guess she was waiting on me to get serious about sewing to come ask her all the questions. She and her 5 sisters started sewing all of their clothes when they were kids and are from a time when the inside of a garment had to look as good as the outside. I finally completed a vintage pattern of a Pound Puppy and am absolutely obsessed with perfecting my skills. I am so inspired by the amount of care and intention that goes into the finest pieces and I love this channel! My mother told me....DON'T SKIP ANY STEPS!!! I'm so glad to find incredible seamstresses like you who can share the value in following EVERY STEP! Thank you so very much....you are helping to save an art that seems to be fading away, and I intend to take on a student when I become proficient!
Wow!! Evelyn - you are AMAZING!! I never understood what that meant and reading pattern instructions (and understanding those pictures) makes me want to pull my hair out. Finally, I understand this! I'm a visual learner and this made so much sense! THANK YOU!! And I'm enjoying your school! Thank you for sharing your abundant sewing knowledge with us 😁
My mother sewed all my garments from the time I was born up until I hit middle school… but I remember she always did top stitch instead of under stitch… and when she taught me to sew, she never mentioned anything about under stitching. I’m going to send her this video, because she makes beautiful pieces, they just look homemade instead of hand crafted, and I think this is the only reason why since every other tip I’ve seen of yours has been taught to me by her. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. They’re infinitely helpful! (Mostly as reminders for me, but also for gems like this where you show how to do these elevated techniques)
One more time am so amazed by the perfection of your work !!!(Of course I have never understitched and without your video I wouldn't have imagined such a technique. Your garments must be without one single fault
Definetly NOT without fault!!! There's no such thing, there's always something I would do differently next time! ❤
Miss Evelyn! I understitched today, and it turned out SO nice! You were right! It was SO good that I squealed and did a happy dance and freaked out my roommate!
I'm newish to apparel sewing so I haven't encountered this yet, but I make a lot of masks, and in some patterns a bit of the lining shows up when viewing from the right side. I think that understitching would be a solution to this problem and will try it the next time I make masks. I've actually topstitched on masks that haven't instructed to do so but now I'm thinking that the look I wanted would have been better achieved by understitching. Thank you so much for this explanation and demonstration!
I have been sewing for over 25 years and I had no idea! What an eye opener. Thank you.
Really appreciate this detail. I have sewn for decades and I never was aware of this technique. Thank you, ... new subscriber 💖
Came to UA-cam to figure out how to under stitch because I no longer want to skip steps and your video was in my recommendations. It was like the universe knew what I needed haha 💞
Evelyn, You’re a awesome teacher. You explained this so clear. Thank you. Could you please make a video on how to replace a zipper on winter jacket? I tried two times, but it was not flat but wrinkles. I pined before sewing. I don’t know why. Thank you.
Well, I learned something new after 35 years of sewing! Neat! Thanks Evelyn!
Thank you so much for making an instructional video without 100000 jumpcuts. I really appreciate youtubers who can say 2 sentences in a row without starting over ^^
😄 Your welcome! Thanks for noticing!
My grandma was a wonderful seamstress and while I didn’t get to have her teach me to sew, I always remembered her rule: the inside of the garment should look as nice as the outside of the garment. It makes a huge difference when you keep all the seams neat and tidy and under stitching is an invaluable skill!
When I first started sewing, I didn't understitch. I always do now. Just recently watched a video where the lady says she doesn't understitch, but only presses the seams. She proceeded to press the heck out of those areas. Guess she does that every time after washing her garments.
LOL! A lot of pressing.
I have some store bought ones that I may do under stitching to...make them lay down better. Especially lapels.
And I bet her reason not to do it is "saving time"? But costing so much more time in the long run with all that extra pressing and adjusting.
I made my dad a renfaire costume. I gave the the ‘historical’ option of pressing and the ‘anachronistic’ option of under stitching or top stitching (depending on what was doable). Ya, not pressing wins.
10:40 Thank you! This is the BEST explanation and demonstration of understitching I have ever seen. Really helpful! You’re a born teacher.😊
Oh wow! I've been sewing nonstop for about a year now, I've only had a couple of patterns that mentioned understitching and I was so confused and of course, skipped it. Your video makes so much sense!!! I make a lot of girls vintage style dresses that call for topstitching (around the necklines). Can I understitch instead of topstitching on patterns? Or do I need to do both? I love the look of the understitch. ❤
I am just an occasional diy sewing person, I watch your videos sometimes, and yesterday I was changing a neckline of my old blazer. I remembered your tutorial on understitching and decided to try it. Originally the blazer didn't have understitching and was rolling around the fold even after pressing. When I finished the understitching... I mean it looks sooo much better, cleaner and more put together 😊 thank you so much for the tutorial!
I read about understitching from sewing books and I’ve been dealing with the seam wrong. Explains why it hasn’t been working so well for me. Usually they emphasize where you sew and not the other factors like where the seam should fall and if you should grade and trim or notch and trim the seam before sewing. Or maybe my brain doesn’t remember some getting that detailed.
I think this is hard to learn from books! Grading seams and clipping curves applies to all seams sewn on curves, so I guess it is sort of a seperate thing that you do, then understitching comes after! 😀
Evelyn, would you consider making a video about grading seams?
I was mystified when you showed your example of understitching. I had seen it on professional garments before, but I never knew what it was or how it was done. My mouth actually fell open when you explained how to do it. Such a straightforward technique for a truly amazing result.
When I first learned to sew way back…1962! It was called “stay stitching” and every top called for this! I wondered why people stopped doing this and patterns did not seem to mention then one day I heard the term “under stitching” not sure I’ve ever seen on a pattern but I think it absolutely makes such a HUGE difference! That neck facing or wherever just literally tucks itself in place!
Great tips! Unrelated question: How on Earth do your nails look so perfectly polished with all of the work you do?! Or varnished, maybe? I think our terms are different in the US and Australia.
Her nails were incredibly lovely!!! It's possible she has dip nails, which are made with colored powder so the color never wears away and always looks fresh throughout the life of the manicure.
I think gel nails keep nice for quite some time too, I wear regular polish, and if I put a new top coat on daily, they stay nice for a week or so.
You have now solved my frustration with lining! I enjoy making simple bags, purses, etc and love to put a bright accent lining in them...but NOT when it roll to the outside!! I will now become an under stitcher!
I have been guilty of skipping that step in the past. The reason I skipped it was because it is usually around a neckline or sleeve opening and the curves have been clipped and I thought it would be too hard to get all those clipped bits sewn to the lining the way they should be. I knew that it would make the facing or lining roll to the inside better and be more professional looking. I guess you could say I've been lazy.
Something for you to try next time!! It's even more important on those curves!