Of course these cast iron blocks and heads are not so easily damaged. Still I would screw the taps in by hand after chamfering the orifices. When a tap breaks it is very difficult to remove, much more difficult than bolts or tapends broken off, because of the hardened steal of which they are made. First time I see this chamfering though, I invented this on my own, way back when still working on motorcycles and aluminium 2CV motorblocks. Now I work on my MGB of course :-D on
Thank you for this video. the only thing that concerns me is using power tools to tap the threads. I am no fitter or turner as they are called but worked as a labourer assisting fitters as a student back in the 70's. I will get out my old Tap and dies and do it by hand before I send the block and head to the machinist. Thank you again for these really great and informative videos.
@Adios571 As you seen with Johns drill when the tap bottoms out or binds it will slip in the chuck, Even if the tap had flats machined on it it would spin the drill in your hand before breaking it. Take it from me, a Machinist who power taps new/existing holes every week when you are doing engine parts or anything no one is going to pay your time to hand chase them all and I mean why make more work for yourself.
No my good man.. We do not chamfer the head bolt holes which have no threads. Only a hole with threads will pull. Those we should chamfer slightly as you said.
I wouldn't run a tap through those rod nuts. The nuts probably had to meet a fit-quality specification, and driving a hand tap through them could put them outside of those specs. Not likely an engine will fail because of it, but It strikes me as not good practice.
Of course these cast iron blocks and heads are not so easily damaged. Still I would screw the taps in by hand after chamfering the orifices. When a tap breaks it is very difficult to remove, much more difficult than bolts or tapends broken off, because of the hardened steal of which they are made. First time I see this chamfering though, I invented this on my own, way back when still working on motorcycles and aluminium 2CV motorblocks. Now I work on my MGB of course :-D on
Thank you for this video. the only thing that concerns me is using power tools to tap the threads. I am no fitter or turner as they are called but worked as a labourer assisting fitters as a student back in the 70's. I will get out my old Tap and dies and do it by hand before I send the block and head to the machinist.
Thank you again for these really great and informative videos.
@Adios571 As you seen with Johns drill when the tap bottoms out or binds it will slip in the chuck, Even if the tap had flats machined on it it would spin the drill in your hand before breaking it. Take it from me, a Machinist who power taps new/existing holes every week when you are doing engine parts or anything no one is going to pay your time to hand chase them all and I mean why make more work for yourself.
No my good man.. We do not chamfer the head bolt holes which have no threads. Only a hole with threads will pull. Those we should chamfer slightly as you said.
Can you please tell me how to fix oil leak by oil pump.i have 1967 MG Miget 1275 cc.
I wouldn't run a tap through those rod nuts. The nuts probably had to meet a fit-quality specification, and driving a hand tap through them could put them outside of those specs. Not likely an engine will fail because of it, but It strikes me as not good practice.
Would never have you work on any engine of mine!