Great video, last night I've ordered the 1000w inverter, the shunt/display, 100a fuse, a 20A charger (AC) and one of the "dumb" 12v 100ah batteries (£175 on Ebay direct from Renogy). All in it was £471. My set-up is for running TV/PC etc at home as it looks like we will be getting "load shedding" (scheduled government misery) this winter, may order another battery at that price and put it in parallel once this is running ok. Our house is heated by a 12kw multifuel stove (can also cook and boil water on the top of it if required), and eyeing up a modest generator as a "plan B" that could power some of the bigger demand items in the house and recharge the batteries through the day if needed. I'm yet to be convinced that here in the North of Scotland that solar would be worthwhile to add to this system- so still dependent on mains electricity and petrol and far from being off-grid, but that can be added! (I've seen some sizing vids and would need to research it way more than this set up, but solar activity is so weak here and the "perpetual cloud" makes a massive difference to our "thermal" solar panel the house came with, on blue sky days great(60c+ water), cloudy days forget it(25c-30c water) I too decided to stick with buying everything from one manufacturer, no parts from elsewhere so if this has any faults they cannot pass the buck and blame it on other components. "DC GUY" also totalled one of his SMART Renogy batteries and took the voltage too low, couldn't "dig it out of that hole" using a generic charger.... It's good to know that the bit's I've bought could be put in a van too, if I was to decide to go all in for a 48v rack system for the house!!
Great overview and explanation Raul. I was having flashbacks - I’ve done much the same as you on the 12v electrics when upgrading an older Moho. I rate Renogy products high. And yes, I’m tired of having so many different crimpers!!
There a few questions about fuse sizes either side of the controller. Please see the Renogy specification available on line states what size cable and fuses to use depending on whether 30 or 50 amp controller.
Best video I've seen so far, everything in one place, rather than relentless hours watching sponsored crap, thank you. Can you do a video on the correct cable for sockets , USB, lights ect, and can you show us the crimping tools/ stripping tools in action. you may already have done this, if so I apologise. Thanks again
Very nice setup. I have same 1000w Renogy microwave and it will not run my 800watt microwave unless I cook at half power. I learned the hard way the 800 watt rating is the cooking power, not the power it actually draws to run.
I stumbled across that info recently, and tested my 800w micro at full power it's using 1250-1300w. Never thought about running it at a lower setting though, that's a great idea!
Love your video really straight forward explanation. Just a quick question I've read that if you isolate the solar that the Renogy DC to DC charger with MPPT will take 50amps from the alternator, so was wondering should i put a 60amp isolator switch in or should I put 30amp in like you have done? Have you had any issues with them tripping? Thanks in advance and hope your system is still all good 🙂
Hey, that´s a good question. My setup is the same. I´m using a DCDC mppt 50 amps - renogy and a 1000W inverter. Are you using a 30 or a 60 amp isolator switch?
Thanks for showing your setup. Good explanation. I am actually curious about another part of your van build; namely the roof rack you seem to have your solar panel connected too. I’m in the process of starting my build, and I don’t want to have to pull apart my insulation/interior paneling in the future(if I decide to expand my solar for example) So I’ve been considering a roof rack of some sort but would like to keep it low profile. Yours looks interesting. Could you tell me more about it or do you have a video of it by any chance? Thanks!
Thanks for a nice presentation and explanation.. I have a question i hope to get an answer for. You have positive cable all the way from starter battery to Renogy controller but do you need a negative ALL the way from the starter battery to the Renogy controller also? I have seen both variants in pictures. Thanks.
Hi. I have the negative connected to the ribs of the van, very close to the controller. The shell of the van is the ground, so there is no need to pull a wire from the battery. Hope it helps and best of luck with your build 👍
Hey there, great video! I'm doing my own very similar set-up right only with 2 x 50ah batteries rather than 1 x 100ah. My knowledge is very limited right now, but I've been looking at wiring diagrams and various videos and most people have included bus bars, but you don't seem to have any. Would you be able to share any info about this at all?
I have built about a dozen battery/inverter units at home in the last few years. Renogy inverters, charge controllers, and shunt type battery meters are my favorites as they have never let me down. I recently put 400 watts of solar panels, Renogy 2000 watt inverter, Renogy 40 amp MPPT unit in our 35 year old camper van. It got a Chins 300 amp hour lithium battery. Such a useful setup! The van surprisingly has come in very handy as a mobile power outlet. I built a gate for a friend and ran my saws, pancake air compressor, charged my battery powered tools. The gate hinges needed to be welded, so I brought my wire feed welder along and the Renogy 2000 watt inverter ran it with no problems. ua-cam.com/video/cXQO80MghOU/v-deo.html
I am about to fit my inverter, same one as you have. Just double checking something, do you fit your AC outlet cable from the inverter to your consumer unit? Thanks.
Hello! Can I run this exact set up with two 175w panels? Looking at the 30amp moot/dc to dc to go with, 1000w inverter and the 100ah battery you have. Please let me know!
Great video! Awesome setup! I’m building mine right now and would have a question: if I connect the caravan to the energy at the camping could I use items over 1000watts (more than the inverter can handle when disconnected), or not? Tks!
That is a very good question, that I have always wondered myself also. But tbh I don't know that. I would only assume that yes, you can push more than 1000w because while in UPS mode, the inverter does not even power on. In other words, you don't need to power on the inverter from it's switch while it's connected to an outside power source. The 230V sockets will just be live. I hope it makes sense :)
Thanks for the answer. By a chance would you have the electric diagram to share? I’m removing the original system at my caravan (old dometic mk140) and adding the whole Renogy systems too.
I'm going to have 560ah of battery in my van. would you still use the same components? obviously id need more solar wattage to charge them but besides that.
Hello Raul!!! Thanks for that amazing video. Does yur sprinter have a smart alternator. I have a sprinter 2017. I have a renogy DC-DC 30 a.. Do you know if I have to conect the IGN sinal wire for the smart alternator? Thanks
Mine does not have a smart alternator, there are some ways to check, there are a lot of videos on yt, but I would guess yours has a smart one. Best of luck 🤞
Hello! Nice video. I'm thinking about maybe going with a similar setup instead of victron. Do you have problems with the mppt shutting off suddenly? I heard people reporting this problem where you had to disconnect all the wires to reset it. Also, when you connect to shore AC power, are you able to charge the lithium battery at the same time? Third and last question, I don't understand much but I've seen on a video that in order to connect panels in series for this mppt, you needed to connect it in a way that would need thicker wires, ever heard of this? Thanks so much for sharing. Cheers!
I never had problems with it, and it's live for almost 1 year. I only took it off 2 months during the winter. I had problems with 1 battery, but they sent a replacement. I honestly never connected the AC yet. I never needed to, but you need a separata charger for it to charge the battery. if you connect multiple panels, i don't think you need to fit thicker wires between the panels. I hope it helps!
Yeah but if you want to be pulling 1000 Watts from your AC unit during the day without your battery going flat you are going to need atleased 1000 Watts worth of penal jeuce to give a fully charged battery by evening there you go buddy there is another thing to add to your equation
Yes it can, but the overall life of the battery suffers greatly if taken down 70-80%. My friend's van had a name brand high dollar group 31 deep cycle battery, the first one lasted only 14 months. They gave him a new one which lasted a year. He insisted on lead acid. I stopped using AGM in my builds in 2017 and have gone with Lifep04 and never looked back. I let my fiend borrow my old 100AH lithium battery and lent him my 30 amp DC-DC charge unit. That was 2 years ago and he beats on my lithium battery and still can't kill it.
Dude there are so many videos like yours but this one is the most helpful- I’ve actually been able to learn something useful from you!!!
Glad it helped!
Great video, last night I've ordered the 1000w inverter, the shunt/display, 100a fuse, a 20A charger (AC) and one of the "dumb" 12v 100ah batteries (£175 on Ebay direct from Renogy). All in it was £471. My set-up is for running TV/PC etc at home as it looks like we will be getting "load shedding" (scheduled government misery) this winter, may order another battery at that price and put it in parallel once this is running ok. Our house is heated by a 12kw multifuel stove (can also cook and boil water on the top of it if required), and eyeing up a modest generator as a "plan B" that could power some of the bigger demand items in the house and recharge the batteries through the day if needed. I'm yet to be convinced that here in the North of Scotland that solar would be worthwhile to add to this system- so still dependent on mains electricity and petrol and far from being off-grid, but that can be added! (I've seen some sizing vids and would need to research it way more than this set up, but solar activity is so weak here and the "perpetual cloud" makes a massive difference to our "thermal" solar panel the house came with, on blue sky days great(60c+ water), cloudy days forget it(25c-30c water)
I too decided to stick with buying everything from one manufacturer, no parts from elsewhere so if this has any faults they cannot pass the buck and blame it on other components. "DC GUY" also totalled one of his SMART Renogy batteries and took the voltage too low, couldn't "dig it out of that hole" using a generic charger.... It's good to know that the bit's I've bought could be put in a van too, if I was to decide to go all in for a 48v rack system for the house!!
Great to see everything coming together, Great job on the wiring and safety. Happy driving
Great overview and explanation Raul. I was having flashbacks - I’ve done much the same as you on the 12v electrics when upgrading an older Moho. I rate Renogy products high. And yes, I’m tired of having so many different crimpers!!
Great to see Van coming together well, wish you many miles of trouble free motoring
It's good ,a good clean install you should be proud of that looks neat and tidy and does everything you need , well done mate and thanks for the vid .
Thanks 👍
Great job raul looks very professional.
great video mate. quick tip for getting things to focus. put your hand behind it. helps the camera know where to focus. such @20:10 Thanks
There a few questions about fuse sizes either side of the controller. Please see the Renogy specification available on line states what size cable and fuses to use depending on whether 30 or 50 amp controller.
Best video I've seen so far, everything in one place, rather than relentless hours watching sponsored crap, thank you.
Can you do a video on the correct cable for sockets , USB, lights ect, and can you show us the crimping tools/ stripping tools in action. you may already have done this, if so I apologise. Thanks again
Thank you. I will do a 2 year's later review soon and I will include that information. Thanks for your feedback 👍
Very nice setup. I have same 1000w Renogy microwave and it will not run my 800watt microwave unless I cook at half power. I learned the hard way the 800 watt rating is the cooking power, not the power it actually draws to run.
Thanks for the info. Live and learn i suppose 👍
I stumbled across that info recently, and tested my 800w micro at full power it's using 1250-1300w. Never thought about running it at a lower setting though, that's a great idea!
Great job, great explanation. Thank you for all your hard work to help us using your experience 👍
Love your video really straight forward explanation. Just a quick question I've read that if you isolate the solar that the Renogy DC to DC charger with MPPT will take 50amps from the alternator, so was wondering should i put a 60amp isolator switch in or should I put 30amp in like you have done? Have you had any issues with them tripping? Thanks in advance and hope your system is still all good 🙂
Hey, that´s a good question. My setup is the same. I´m using a DCDC mppt 50 amps - renogy and a 1000W inverter. Are you using a 30 or a 60 amp isolator switch?
Thanks for showing your setup. Good explanation. I am actually curious about another part of your van build; namely the roof rack you seem to have your solar panel connected too. I’m in the process of starting my build, and I don’t want to have to pull apart my insulation/interior paneling in the future(if I decide to expand my solar for example) So I’ve been considering a roof rack of some sort but would like to keep it low profile. Yours looks interesting. Could you tell me more about it or do you have a video of it by any chance? Thanks!
Nice clean setup along with clear information, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
An interesting fact is that microwave ovens are not very efficient - one rated for 600 Watts cooking power may draw 1,000 to 1,200 Watts.
Good job brother and thanks for the links to buy stuff
liked , will be doing this in the next week or two.
Thanks for a nice presentation and explanation..
I have a question i hope to get an answer for.
You have positive cable all the way from starter battery to Renogy controller but do you need a negative ALL the way from the starter battery to the Renogy controller also?
I have seen both variants in pictures.
Thanks.
Hi. I have the negative connected to the ribs of the van, very close to the controller. The shell of the van is the ground, so there is no need to pull a wire from the battery. Hope it helps and best of luck with your build 👍
Are you still happy with this setup? Working well? Thanks
Yes all going well
Hey there, great video! I'm doing my own very similar set-up right only with 2 x 50ah batteries rather than 1 x 100ah. My knowledge is very limited right now, but I've been looking at wiring diagrams and various videos and most people have included bus bars, but you don't seem to have any. Would you be able to share any info about this at all?
number 1! great tips here!! thanks
I have built about a dozen battery/inverter units at home in the last few years. Renogy inverters, charge controllers, and shunt type battery meters are my favorites as they have never let me down. I recently put 400 watts of solar panels, Renogy 2000 watt inverter, Renogy 40 amp MPPT unit in our 35 year old camper van. It got a Chins 300 amp hour lithium battery. Such a useful setup!
The van surprisingly has come in very handy as a mobile power outlet. I built a gate for a friend and ran my saws, pancake air compressor, charged my battery powered tools. The gate hinges needed to be welded, so I brought my wire feed welder along and the Renogy 2000 watt inverter ran it with no problems. ua-cam.com/video/cXQO80MghOU/v-deo.html
Hi there. I’m wondering if you could send me a link to your 1000 wat inverter please. Nice job of the wiring
Sure here it is
amzn.to/3Bp7d87
Bonjour avez vous testez les panneaux solaires souple 175w un bon équipement que vous avez cordialement
Hi, can you tell me where you got your blade fuse holder from please? Thanks for the information.
Sure here it is
amzn.to/49aMxvY
@@Raul689 Thanks for getting back, much appreciated. 👍
Great Video and very educational
I am about to fit my inverter, same one as you have. Just double checking something, do you fit your AC outlet cable from the inverter to your consumer unit? Thanks.
Hello! Can I run this exact set up with two 175w panels? Looking at the 30amp moot/dc to dc to go with, 1000w inverter and the 100ah battery you have. Please let me know!
Great video thanks! And nice set up I’m jealous!
Thanks for watching!
what if u install 24v or lower solar panel to the alternator connector, no car used or switch, alternator gives 15v
Great video! Awesome setup! I’m building mine right now and would have a question: if I connect the caravan to the energy at the camping could I use items over 1000watts (more than the inverter can handle when disconnected), or not? Tks!
That is a very good question, that I have always wondered myself also. But tbh I don't know that. I would only assume that yes, you can push more than 1000w because while in UPS mode, the inverter does not even power on.
In other words, you don't need to power on the inverter from it's switch while it's connected to an outside power source. The 230V sockets will just be live.
I hope it makes sense :)
Thanks for the answer. By a chance would you have the electric diagram to share? I’m removing the original system at my caravan (old dometic mk140) and adding the whole Renogy systems too.
Don't have a diagram, sorry. Will do a 2 year after Renogy system review later this year. Best of luck with your build 👍
Is this set up able to charg your battery from 240v mains or you need separate charger for that?
I will need a separate charger for that
@@Raul689 , hello great video. To be clear you cannot charge battery using shore/ grid power? Thanks again
Excellent video 👍Thank You
I'm going to have 560ah of battery in my van. would you still use the same components? obviously id need more solar wattage to charge them but besides that.
I would fit a larger inverter, probably 2000w. Other than that everything works well
Love you video, can you tell me exactly more about the cables you use for everything please, because I'm so confused with this . please
All the cables running to the batteries and the controller are 25mm, and to the consumers are 1.5mm thick. Hope it helps
Hi pal have u had any problems with the inverter mounted on the wall instead of the floor ? Wall is what I’m thinking 👍🏻
Don't think it matters where or how you fit it. Works great 👍
Thx pal
I love it! Good job 👏
Thanks for a very informative video
Hello Raul!!! Thanks for that amazing video. Does yur sprinter have a smart alternator. I have a sprinter 2017. I have a renogy DC-DC 30 a.. Do you know if I have to conect the IGN sinal wire for the smart alternator? Thanks
Mine does not have a smart alternator, there are some ways to check, there are a lot of videos on yt, but I would guess yours has a smart one. Best of luck 🤞
Nice , any chance to have the drawing for you set up.. please please please
Sorry, no
Hello! Nice video. I'm thinking about maybe going with a similar setup instead of victron. Do you have problems with the mppt shutting off suddenly? I heard people reporting this problem where you had to disconnect all the wires to reset it. Also, when you connect to shore AC power, are you able to charge the lithium battery at the same time? Third and last question, I don't understand much but I've seen on a video that in order to connect panels in series for this mppt, you needed to connect it in a way that would need thicker wires, ever heard of this? Thanks so much for sharing. Cheers!
I never had problems with it, and it's live for almost 1 year. I only took it off 2 months during the winter. I had problems with 1 battery, but they sent a replacement. I honestly never connected the AC yet. I never needed to, but you need a separata charger for it to charge the battery. if you connect multiple panels, i don't think you need to fit thicker wires between the panels. I hope it helps!
Hi you have 80amp fuse, in my paperwork for my 1000w inverter it says to use 150amp fuse for the battery
I honestly don't have a fuse between the batteries and the inverter.
Hi there, how long can it be warrantied?
I think 5 years for Renogy batteries. Rest of products 2 years
Nice job!
loved this, easy to follow. except for background music ! why oh why😏😔
Thanks for your feedback 👍
Yeah but if you want to be pulling 1000 Watts from your AC unit during the day without your battery going flat you are going to need atleased 1000 Watts worth of penal jeuce to give a fully charged battery by evening there you go buddy there is another thing to add to your equation
Doesnt fuse holder show light if fuse is ok
The light comes on if the fuse is blown, so you know which one to change
Them fuses for your solar need to be a ac fuse not a dc ,them fuses can make fire.
At 25-35VDC, 5-8A from that little panel, it’s fine.
Sorry dc not ac best using solar dc switch
An 800 Watt microwave is about 1200 watts input ;)
Thanks!
Nice
Hello
Shared your experience about how this system make you lose you hairs!! Lol i joke
The deep cycle group 31d or m 100 ah can do 70 to 80% of the battery. Not 50%
Yes it can, but the overall life of the battery suffers greatly if taken down 70-80%. My friend's van had a name brand high dollar group 31 deep cycle battery, the first one lasted only 14 months. They gave him a new one which lasted a year. He insisted on lead acid. I stopped using AGM in my builds in 2017 and have gone with Lifep04 and never looked back. I let my fiend borrow my old 100AH lithium battery and lent him my 30 amp DC-DC charge unit. That was 2 years ago and he beats on my lithium battery and still can't kill it.
What length of 4 gage electic cables do you need?
👍🫡 love renogy stuff