Hey Steropil, thanks man. It is good to hear that. I thought if its like 50 bucks that may look cool but people need to read it. Plus for many people in the world this 14 bucks is what they make in 2 weeks. Thanks for the support and have a good one! Bye. Pat
Hello SeeTheForest, I think the lime stone in Egypt is made from lime rubble bound with a kaolinitic clay-soda geopolymer. If you point your rays or the microscope onto the lime or clam shells it looks like lime if you would aim it at the binding phase which is only 11 % I think, then you get a completely different result. Plus egyptologists are no materials engineers. They simply don't have the capacities to ask the right questions, I find. Have a good one! Pat
One other quick question: What do you think of the idea of combining clay with aluminum sulfate and then mixing with plenty of waterglass? The concept (or rather, hope) is that the waterglass and aluminum sulfate react to produce fibrous strands of aluminasilicate within the clay matrix, acting as both strengthening and heat resistance agents in the clay.
Hey Justin, That's an interesting question. I've been wanting to conduct experiments like this for a while. You can definitely give it a try. I suggest purchasing a small sample holder made of plastic and conducting a series of tests, starting from a small amount of Al2(SO4)3 and increasing gradually. This should provide indications fairly quickly if it's worthwhile. In general, simply adding metal salts won't necessarily increase the degree of geopolymerization reaction. That's because aluminum or silicon salts are part of a system with little remaining energy, so to speak. Geopolymers require raw materials with more energy to actively participate in the reaction. For aluminum, it would involve metal-organic compounds (organo-aluminum compounds). Raw materials like fly ash, waterglass, and calcined clays are already the best choices. But hey, give it a try, and then you'll see. Have a great time experimenting! Best regards, Pat
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing I know that if you mix waterglass and aluminum sulfate directly, it will immediately react and produce aluminasilicate fiber strands. I think this may be one of the ways that industry uses to make ceramic fiber blankets/insulation? But the clay binder might slow down the reaction? Either way, yeah, I may as well just try it with small samples like you said. Danke Pat.
I've got a question for you regarding the recipe you posted in a previous video. I tried it twice and each time it took multiple days (4+ days) for it to harden inside the silicone mold I was using. Do I really need to stir the hardening solution (NaOH and water and Waterglass ) for 15minutes? I think I might not have done it long enough. (I did make it the day before and waited 24hrs before mixing the metakaolin and then aggregate). I used metakaolin but I couldn't find if it was heated to the 750 degrees C that you mentioned. It was listed as "metakaolin for adding to cement". Could that be the cause of it no hardening within 24hrs? I used N-grade waterglass (40%) but not distilled water - so I'll try again with distilled water. As for the aggregate I used feldspar sand. I also tried one with silica sand and that worked a little bit better but still took multiple days or a week to harden. I know I'm asking a lot, but is there a something I'm doing grossly incorrectly that is stopping it from hardening with 24hrs?
Hello frank! You ask just fine. 15 minutes stirring is ok but it is only that I had to state a number. You can also mix for like 20 seconds after a couple minutes again for 20 seconds... untill the NaOH is completely dissolved. I would mix it for 15 minutes only when covered as CO2 can destroy the properties. Try again donig it without to much contact to the air, just make sure the NaOH is largely dissolved, wait until the next day so the solution can mature and if takes that long again, it is most likely either the metakaolin or the waterglass solution. Tap water is normally no problem. Metakaolin for cement sounds just fine either. I'm not familiar wit the naming of the waterglass you mentioned. I'll have a look. In the meantime: Which procedure of mine did you use? Facebook, UA-cam? Are there more information about your waterglass? I had to call the manufacturer to find out the modulus and water content plus many kinds of WG are of bad quality and decay rapidly because many of them are not made for being a reagents. Have a good one. Pat Edit: N grade waterglass is fine, I'd say. Modulus of 3.22 should work. It's most likely the metakolin. You could ask the seller/manufacturer about the origin as they quite often buy brands of big firms like BASF as it was the case with my metakaolin seller.
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing Thank you for the quick reply. I'll ask the metakaolin supplier and see what they say. I used the procedure from your youtube video that you posted 2 months ago.
@@frankdrebin2343 You welcome! Let me know if you know about your MK. It is rather common that in the beginning little works in the lab but after some time you know haw to do it and what raw materials to pick. Regards. Pat
Thanks Patrick, I’ve just watched all your videos. Can you do a large scale demonstration with 75% aggregate where you make a paving slab and show how that is done? When we make concrete slabs for foundations we only make side walls and finish the top surface with tools, does the Geopolymer need to be completely sealed inside a mould as it cures to prevent CO2 from getting to the curing surface?
Hey man! Thank you for your comment! I would love to create a video on this topic, but it may take some time since I'm currently involved in several projects. To answer your question: Yes, you definitely need to cover it. You can use kitchen foil, cling film, or even cling film specifically designed for pallets. Alternatively, you could place it in a bag. The reason for this is that if it dries out, the curing reaction will stop. Additionally, exposure to CO2 can be problematic. In general, it’s important to keep it well-covered to prevent it from drying out. Best, Pat
Hello, sorry for only writing now. Its probably the concrete industry who wants to suppress me :D I'm kidding. Try this. from time to time people have problems to reach the content. Let me know if this does not work as well. Best Patrick www.amazon.com.au/Basic-Geopolymer-Formulations-Environmentally-High-Performance-ebook/dp/B0CHWN8YCN/
Hi Patrick, I recently bought and read your first Geopolymer book (English translation) off Amazon. It's very interesting. There is some info about fire and high temp resistance, but I was wondering if you could maybe give some pointers on the best combos/formulations for high temp/fire resistance? Would the acid based geopolymers work better, since sodium and potassium act as a flux for glasses and ceramics? (For my purpose, I don't need high, let alone, very high compressive strength, but I do need something that resists long term oxidization via fire and moderately high temps). Also, Robert Murray Smith shared a couple videos about a geopolymer made out of a combo of clay, magnesium oxide, and waterglass (sodium silicate), which is dried at room temp for a bit, and then heated in an oven at 400*F/200*C to "cure". Do you think this would have decent fire/high temp resistance properties? This would be overlayed on/impregnated into basalt woven fiber cloth (hence why I don't want to use a formulation that uses sodium or potassium hydroxide, as the very high pH breaks down basalt over time, as you noted also in your book). And if chopped carbon fiber strands are placed in it, will the surrounding geopolymer matrix be sufficiently protective against oxygen, to keep the carbon fiber from oxidizing at the normal 1200*F (648*C) to 1400*F (760* C) range in open atmosphere, or not? Danke
Hey Justin, I suggest once again trying it out (with the fibers). I can't predict if they will remain intact after firing. Perhaps AR-glass fibers would be a good choice since they are resistant to heat. You can create small samples and devise a testing regime with increased stress and exposure to substances, which should provide clear indications quickly. What you mentioned about H3PO4 GPs is absolutely correct! In my book, there is a recipe using truss/tuff stone, from which I know it withstands heat because I used it to construct a firing box for making MK. They remained intact after several rounds of 5 hours at 800°C. Best regards, Patrick
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing It sounds like it would make more sense to just go with the AR fibers, though they are heavier/denser. (But I may not even need any extra tensile and Young's modulus strength for my application anyways. The combo of basalt fiber cloth and cement will likely be enough). Good to know about H3PO4 and your firing box. Cheers and danke.
You're welcome, Justin. Ultimately, one has to put in the effort and create samples, I'd say. I find that the best fibers, in general, are short (8 mm or 1/3 inch) and not stacked. Basalt fibers are notorious for dissolving in basic geopolymer, but apparently not in less basic Portland cement. However, I have samples with stacked basalt fibers in them, and I can't observe any dissolution.
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing That is why I am avoiding formulations that include sodium or potassium hydroxide, as it is very alkaline and could negatively affect the basalt fiber cloth. I will be trying magnesium oxide with fumed silica, water, and a little waterglass. One with the former and some clay. And some magnesium oxide with phosphoric acid and a little clay. I've also thought about some zirconia silicate with phosphoric acid, but I don't want it to reflect IR too much.
At least CO2 is not a poisonous gas but it is important to plants and us because your breathing is controlled by the blood CO2 levels. I mean I hope we are not in the beginning of a not stoppable upheating of the atmosphere. For me only the possibility is a good reason to do something about it. Plus all set aside, geopolymers show a polymeric framework of covalently bound glassmaking atoms hence the same chemical bonds as in glass which renders them a way way better cement.
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing we are slmost at minimum levels of co2 in the atmosphere that plants require to survive its not causing any global warming
At last someone who cleary defined formula. Thank you Pat. Already ordered your new book. It costs cents compared to the other "clever" guys.
Hey Steropil, thanks man. It is good to hear that. I thought if its like 50 bucks that may look cool but people need to read it. Plus for many people in the world this 14 bucks is what they make in 2 weeks. Thanks for the support and have a good one! Bye. Pat
Makes me wonder about all that "limestone" in Egypt. Especially those "blocks" and casing stones with the nubs on the bottom corners.
Hello SeeTheForest, I think the lime stone in Egypt is made from lime rubble bound with a kaolinitic clay-soda geopolymer. If you point your rays or the microscope onto the lime or clam shells it looks like lime if you would aim it at the binding phase which is only 11 % I think, then you get a completely different result. Plus egyptologists are no materials engineers. They simply don't have the capacities to ask the right questions, I find. Have a good one! Pat
Very interesting
Thanks 🥰
I love your vids 😘
What is the isolation propertie? And is it possible to mix in foam for better isolation?
One other quick question: What do you think of the idea of combining clay with aluminum sulfate and then mixing with plenty of waterglass? The concept (or rather, hope) is that the waterglass and aluminum sulfate react to produce fibrous strands of aluminasilicate within the clay matrix, acting as both strengthening and heat resistance agents in the clay.
Hey Justin,
That's an interesting question. I've been wanting to conduct experiments like this for a while. You can definitely give it a try. I suggest purchasing a small sample holder made of plastic and conducting a series of tests, starting from a small amount of Al2(SO4)3 and increasing gradually. This should provide indications fairly quickly if it's worthwhile. In general, simply adding metal salts won't necessarily increase the degree of geopolymerization reaction. That's because aluminum or silicon salts are part of a system with little remaining energy, so to speak. Geopolymers require raw materials with more energy to actively participate in the reaction. For aluminum, it would involve metal-organic compounds (organo-aluminum compounds). Raw materials like fly ash, waterglass, and calcined clays are already the best choices.
But hey, give it a try, and then you'll see. Have a great time experimenting!
Best regards,
Pat
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing I know that if you mix waterglass and aluminum sulfate directly, it will immediately react and produce aluminasilicate fiber strands. I think this may be one of the ways that industry uses to make ceramic fiber blankets/insulation?
But the clay binder might slow down the reaction? Either way, yeah, I may as well just try it with small samples like you said.
Danke Pat.
I've got a question for you regarding the recipe you posted in a previous video. I tried it twice and each time it took multiple days (4+ days) for it to harden inside the silicone mold I was using.
Do I really need to stir the hardening solution (NaOH and water and Waterglass ) for 15minutes? I think I might not have done it long enough. (I did make it the day before and waited 24hrs before mixing the metakaolin and then aggregate).
I used metakaolin but I couldn't find if it was heated to the 750 degrees C that you mentioned. It was listed as "metakaolin for adding to cement". Could that be the cause of it no hardening within 24hrs?
I used N-grade waterglass (40%) but not distilled water - so I'll try again with distilled water.
As for the aggregate I used feldspar sand. I also tried one with silica sand and that worked a little bit better but still took multiple days or a week to harden.
I know I'm asking a lot, but is there a something I'm doing grossly incorrectly that is stopping it from hardening with 24hrs?
Hello frank! You ask just fine. 15 minutes stirring is ok but it is only that I had to state a number. You can also mix for like 20 seconds after a couple minutes again for 20 seconds... untill the NaOH is completely dissolved. I would mix it for 15 minutes only when covered as CO2 can destroy the properties. Try again donig it without to much contact to the air, just make sure the NaOH is largely dissolved, wait until the next day so the solution can mature and if takes that long again, it is most likely either the metakaolin or the waterglass solution. Tap water is normally no problem. Metakaolin for cement sounds just fine either. I'm not familiar wit the naming of the waterglass you mentioned. I'll have a look. In the meantime: Which procedure of mine did you use? Facebook, UA-cam? Are there more information about your waterglass? I had to call the manufacturer to find out the modulus and water content plus many kinds of WG are of bad quality and decay rapidly because many of them are not made for being a reagents. Have a good one. Pat
Edit: N grade waterglass is fine, I'd say. Modulus of 3.22 should work. It's most likely the metakolin. You could ask the seller/manufacturer about the origin as they quite often buy brands of big firms like BASF as it was the case with my metakaolin seller.
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing Thank you for the quick reply. I'll ask the metakaolin supplier and see what they say.
I used the procedure from your youtube video that you posted 2 months ago.
@@frankdrebin2343 You welcome! Let me know if you know about your MK. It is rather common that in the beginning little works in the lab but after some time you know haw to do it and what raw materials to pick. Regards. Pat
Thanks Patrick, I’ve just watched all your videos. Can you do a large scale demonstration with 75% aggregate where you make a paving slab and show how that is done?
When we make concrete slabs for foundations we only make side walls and finish the top surface with tools, does the Geopolymer need to be completely sealed inside a mould as it cures to prevent CO2 from getting to the curing surface?
Hey man!
Thank you for your comment! I would love to create a video on this topic, but it may take some time since I'm currently involved in several projects.
To answer your question: Yes, you definitely need to cover it. You can use kitchen foil, cling film, or even cling film specifically designed for pallets. Alternatively, you could place it in a bag.
The reason for this is that if it dries out, the curing reaction will stop. Additionally, exposure to CO2 can be problematic. In general, it’s important to keep it well-covered to prevent it from drying out.
Best,
Pat
Tried to buy your book Patrick. I am in Australia and it seems I cannot purchase on Amazon?.
Hello, sorry for only writing now. Its probably the concrete industry who wants to suppress me :D I'm kidding. Try this. from time to time people have problems to reach the content. Let me know if this does not work as well. Best Patrick www.amazon.com.au/Basic-Geopolymer-Formulations-Environmentally-High-Performance-ebook/dp/B0CHWN8YCN/
could you please elaborate more about geopolymer 1, 2 and 3 parts?
Hello! I'm already working on it :)
Hi Patrick, I recently bought and read your first Geopolymer book (English translation) off Amazon. It's very interesting. There is some info about fire and high temp resistance, but I was wondering if you could maybe give some pointers on the best combos/formulations for high temp/fire resistance? Would the acid based geopolymers work better, since sodium and potassium act as a flux for glasses and ceramics? (For my purpose, I don't need high, let alone, very high compressive strength, but I do need something that resists long term oxidization via fire and moderately high temps).
Also, Robert Murray Smith shared a couple videos about a geopolymer made out of a combo of clay, magnesium oxide, and waterglass (sodium silicate), which is dried at room temp for a bit, and then heated in an oven at 400*F/200*C to "cure". Do you think this would have decent fire/high temp resistance properties? This would be overlayed on/impregnated into basalt woven fiber cloth (hence why I don't want to use a formulation that uses sodium or potassium hydroxide, as the very high pH breaks down basalt over time, as you noted also in your book).
And if chopped carbon fiber strands are placed in it, will the surrounding geopolymer matrix be sufficiently protective against oxygen, to keep the carbon fiber from oxidizing at the normal 1200*F (648*C) to 1400*F (760* C) range in open atmosphere, or not?
Danke
Hey Justin,
I suggest once again trying it out (with the fibers). I can't predict if they will remain intact after firing. Perhaps AR-glass fibers would be a good choice since they are resistant to heat. You can create small samples and devise a testing regime with increased stress and exposure to substances, which should provide clear indications quickly.
What you mentioned about H3PO4 GPs is absolutely correct! In my book, there is a recipe using truss/tuff stone, from which I know it withstands heat because I used it to construct a firing box for making MK. They remained intact after several rounds of 5 hours at 800°C.
Best regards,
Patrick
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing It sounds like it would make more sense to just go with the AR fibers, though they are heavier/denser. (But I may not even need any extra tensile and Young's modulus strength for my application anyways. The combo of basalt fiber cloth and cement will likely be enough).
Good to know about H3PO4 and your firing box.
Cheers and danke.
You're welcome, Justin. Ultimately, one has to put in the effort and create samples, I'd say. I find that the best fibers, in general, are short (8 mm or 1/3 inch) and not stacked. Basalt fibers are notorious for dissolving in basic geopolymer, but apparently not in less basic Portland cement. However, I have samples with stacked basalt fibers in them, and I can't observe any dissolution.
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing That is why I am avoiding formulations that include sodium or potassium hydroxide, as it is very alkaline and could negatively affect the basalt fiber cloth.
I will be trying magnesium oxide with fumed silica, water, and a little waterglass. One with the former and some clay.
And some magnesium oxide with phosphoric acid and a little clay.
I've also thought about some zirconia silicate with phosphoric acid, but I don't want it to reflect IR too much.
Sounds great, Justin! Perhaps you could keep me updated on things like zirconia, as it's something I'm also interested in pursuing. Best, Pat
the more co2 emitted is better
At least CO2 is not a poisonous gas but it is important to plants and us because your breathing is controlled by the blood CO2 levels. I mean I hope we are not in the beginning of a not stoppable upheating of the atmosphere. For me only the possibility is a good reason to do something about it.
Plus all set aside, geopolymers show a polymeric framework of covalently bound glassmaking atoms hence the same chemical bonds as in glass which renders them a way way better cement.
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing we are slmost at minimum levels of co2 in the atmosphere that plants require to survive its not causing any global warming
@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing if co2 droos any lower vegetation begins to die off