Thanks for showing anyone can make a mistake, even someone at your high skill level. The saw came out very nice. You give such clear descriptions of how and why throughout your process it is very enjoyable to watch. These are some of my favorite projects. Thanks for posting
I think I'll have to build one of these. Not that I'll use it, I love my power tools. Which brings up another point. I love how you show the way to hand tool your work, but yet use power tools if it's the best fit. As for the screw-ups,,,, I call those bucket days. That's where it's best for me to just sit on a bucket and stare at my shop. Safer for me, my tools, and my wood! haha Thanks again for very good videos and information.
Looking at this saw, reminds me my father using one, much larger as I remember with a wider blade, probably used it as a frame saw for re-sawing. The main difference as I remember him using it was, he never held the knob which was much smaller, he held it by the frame handle that was "beefier", he had large hands and the knob was only to adjust the angle of the blade. It almost tempts me to build one from scratch and using a piece of bandsaw blade, this way I can control the length I want it to be and I like the way he held it by the frame, it just looks more "natural" to hold on to it than the knob. Thanks for the video and kudos to you to admit to mistakes instead of "editing".
I made my first bow saw 21 years ago some ones bandsaw blade broke and they let me have the broken blade so i cut to the length i wanted it and built my bow saw around it I wasn't working off any measurements plans or design but i was successful the first time it wasn't the prettiest bow saw but it works well i have had those days where some projects didn't work well too but in those cases i was trying to reproduce something and I believe that is it if learn't anything out of it I wasn't allowing my own style of creativity to flow out I was suppressing my own artistic flare the middle piece was to short because your own artistic flare was telling you you wanted larger tenons you could have either shortened the blade or spaced out in between the blade knobs and still enjoyed the experience of making your own bowsaw the way you liked it
Working on building one of these now. It's not obvious from the plan drawings that the critical dimension for the stretcher is 12-3/4" between the interior edge of the two posts.
First off, nice choice on the Beethoven-rock. I love what you're doing in regards to ole' school woodworking. With that, I recommend you trust your instincts. You made three mistakes in a row because you were just 'following the pattern". I am willing to bet that if you simple made a quick, common sense measurement, you would have been successful on the first try. BTW, you can easily make your own "Gramercy pins" for under a buck by buying 4" x 1/4" bolts from a big box and grinding .
Only surmising since I haven't actually built one yet. But it seems to me that the mortises and the tenons should be cut rounded to look more like a biscuit slot. The corners wouldn't dig in and you would have a larger range of adjustment.
dude, make a simple one 1st and use it to make subsequent ones. buy a length of bandsaw blade & (2) 3/8" dia. x 8" length carriage bolts. cut the threaded sections off the bolts & you'll need a hacksaw to cut slots in the bolts for the blade ends. drill cross-wise for nails to pin the blade. cut the wood straight for the arms and stretcher & use dowels for the knobs. you can shape the wood w/ files if you want.
The tenons are not intended to be fulcrums on which the end pieces rotate. They just hold the beam in place. On your model, the pivoting is obviously done on the CORNERS at each end of the tenon shoulder, which doesn't sound like a good idea. You should round the shoulders of the beam, and make a concave "pocket" in the end pieces for those rounded shoulders to rotate in.
I likely would have made a couple of 1/8" spacers for the shoulders of your cross piece-of brass or steel maybe even wooden. The would have effectively shortened your tenons and extended the cross-piece effective length.
It is a copyright issue. I had an agreement to use the intro song before the artist changed labels. After they changed, the new label revoked the license
Thank you for this video! I am preparing to make a bowsaw and was going to use ash because of it's straight grain. Then I saw this. Does the figure in the birdseye or the tiger maple affect the strength of the saw? I will be using mine with a metal cutting blade a la Paul Sellers recent build.
+fryefoto certainly a straight grained wood, especially a ring porous species will be much stronger than the hard, brittle species like Maple. But for a small saw like this one there really isn't that much force being applied and if nothing else being aware of the weakness in the species might prevent one from over tightening the blade which I think effect the agility of the turning saw. A larger saw or a wider blade will need more tension and therefore more stress on the arms of the saw so you will want to choose your species more wisely. I wrote a post on my blog a while back about "strength" of wood. www.renaissancewoodworker.com/wood-strength-101/.
+RenaissanceWW thank you for the link to the blog. Very informative and helpful! I will use the ash and save the figured maple for a more suitable project.
The Gramercy kit is designed primarily around customized Gramercy blades ordered from them with pins that mount very much like coping saw blade...just really long ones. They do, however, have a 1/16" hole if you wanted to go the Paul Sellers route and cut+drill regular band saw blades.
This is wonderful! All the tapering makes the saw look and feel like an art object itself; so its an art object that makes art objects!!
Thanks! I love that you made that mistake 3 times in a row! It's great that we are all human.
Thanks for showing anyone can make a mistake, even someone at your high skill level. The saw came out very nice. You give such clear descriptions of how and why throughout your process it is very enjoyable to watch. These are some of my favorite projects. Thanks for posting
Shannon, thanks for putting this video together. It helped me immensely during the building of mine.
I think I'll have to build one of these. Not that I'll use it, I love my power tools. Which brings up another point. I love how you show the way to hand tool your work, but yet use power tools if it's the best fit. As for the screw-ups,,,, I call those bucket days. That's where it's best for me to just sit on a bucket and stare at my shop. Safer for me, my tools, and my wood! haha Thanks again for very good videos and information.
Looking at this saw, reminds me my father using one, much larger as I remember with a wider blade, probably used it as a frame saw for re-sawing.
The main difference as I remember him using it was, he never held the knob which was much smaller, he held it by the frame handle that was "beefier", he had large hands and the knob was only to adjust the angle of the blade.
It almost tempts me to build one from scratch and using a piece of bandsaw blade, this way I can control the length I want it to be and I like the way he held it by the frame, it just looks more "natural" to hold on to it than the knob.
Thanks for the video and kudos to you to admit to mistakes instead of "editing".
I have the Gramercy plans, a new midi lathe, a nice 6/4 rough sawn hickory, and an itch to make a bow saw. Great video!
Thank you for your work.
explaining the mistake was a great idea. Every DIY vid should show one mistake and explain how it happened and the fix.
I made my first bow saw 21 years ago some ones bandsaw blade broke and they let me have the broken blade so i cut to the length i wanted it and built my bow saw around it I wasn't working off any measurements plans or design but i was successful the first time
it wasn't the prettiest bow saw but it works well i have had those days where some projects didn't work well too but in those cases i was trying to reproduce something and I believe that is it if learn't anything out of it I wasn't allowing my own style of creativity to flow out I was suppressing my own artistic flare the middle piece was to short because your own artistic flare was telling you you wanted larger tenons you could have either shortened the blade or spaced out in between the blade knobs and still enjoyed the experience of making your own bowsaw the way you liked it
This looks wonderful! I'm only now planing to start making things by hand... or "unplugged". lol Just got a straight razor too.
Working on building one of these now. It's not obvious from the plan drawings that the critical dimension for the stretcher is 12-3/4" between the interior edge of the two posts.
First off, nice choice on the Beethoven-rock. I love what you're doing in regards to ole' school woodworking. With that, I recommend you trust your instincts. You made three mistakes in a row because you were just 'following the pattern". I am willing to bet that if you simple made a quick, common sense measurement, you would have been successful on the first try. BTW, you can easily make your own "Gramercy pins" for under a buck by buying 4" x 1/4" bolts from a big box and grinding .
Only surmising since I haven't actually built one yet. But it seems to me that the mortises and the tenons should be cut rounded to look more like a biscuit slot. The corners wouldn't dig in and you would have a larger range of adjustment.
dude, make a simple one 1st and use it to make subsequent ones. buy a length of bandsaw blade & (2) 3/8" dia. x 8" length carriage bolts. cut the threaded sections off the bolts & you'll need a hacksaw to cut slots in the bolts for the blade ends. drill cross-wise for nails to pin the blade. cut the wood straight for the arms and stretcher & use dowels for the knobs. you can shape the wood w/ files if you want.
The tenons are not intended to be fulcrums on which the end pieces rotate. They just hold the beam in place. On your model, the pivoting is obviously done on the CORNERS at each end of the tenon shoulder, which doesn't sound like a good idea. You should round the shoulders of the beam, and make a concave "pocket" in the end pieces for those rounded shoulders to rotate in.
I likely would have made a couple of 1/8" spacers for the shoulders of your cross piece-of brass or steel maybe even wooden. The would have effectively shortened your tenons and extended the cross-piece effective length.
You mention that a framing saw is not for kerf cutting. Tell that to Frank Klausz.
It is a copyright issue. I had an agreement to use the intro song before the artist changed labels. After they changed, the new label revoked the license
Hey Shannon, is there a reason why I can not watch this on a mobile device?
Thank you for this video! I am preparing to make a bowsaw and was going to use ash because of it's straight grain. Then I saw this. Does the figure in the birdseye or the tiger maple affect the strength of the saw? I will be using mine with a metal cutting blade a la Paul Sellers recent build.
+fryefoto certainly a straight grained wood, especially a ring porous species will be much stronger than the hard, brittle species like Maple. But for a small saw like this one there really isn't that much force being applied and if nothing else being aware of the weakness in the species might prevent one from over tightening the blade which I think effect the agility of the turning saw. A larger saw or a wider blade will need more tension and therefore more stress on the arms of the saw so you will want to choose your species more wisely. I wrote a post on my blog a while back about "strength" of wood. www.renaissancewoodworker.com/wood-strength-101/.
+RenaissanceWW thank you for the link to the blog. Very informative and helpful! I will use the ash and save the figured maple for a more suitable project.
I followed the first part but then got lost - i don't have powered lathes, plans, shaping tools to make up my own bow saw, sadly foiled again ....
Where do I get blades?
The Gramercy kit is designed primarily around customized Gramercy blades ordered from them with pins that mount very much like coping saw blade...just really long ones. They do, however, have a 1/16" hole if you wanted to go the Paul Sellers route and cut+drill regular band saw blades.
Why not simply shorten the tenons?
hammershigh Because the distance between the shoulders would still be to small.
oh, mannn! you ruined a perfectly good 1x12 just to demonstrate the saw cutting ability; I would have believed you...!
"Please", less talk would be "GREAT". You never miss an opportunity to beat a dead horse.
You can use woodprix instructions to build it in the cheapest way.
All the gear, No idea.
Yep none at all...though the saw works great even 3 years later. Dumb luck I guess.
RenaissanceWW I must have struck a chord with you there, FIRE UP !
+Scott Gates No, you're just rude.