Man, you've saved my bacon again. Just had a wheel bearing go out on my MK6 with 174k miles. My immediate thought was "I hope Charles has a video on this". Simply awesome.
I think that I mis-spoke about the size of the BIG triple square. It should be an 18! The link in the description will get ya the right deal! Happy DIYing!
And please Charles. Gimme some TDI videos. I have a 2013 Jetta TDI. You should buy one and fix it up to make it fast. Those TDI can be modded up to 300+ horses and 400+ torque
Great video! I have a 2012 Audi A3 8P and used this video as a guide. One tip for A3 8P owners, you DO NOT need to remove the caliper bracket to remove the rotor. There is plenty of room that the rotor can be easily guided around the bracket.
Man, I went searching the internet for a M17 TS, as my kit has 16 & 18, but not 17! Super hard to find a 17, so I took a break and mowed the lawn. Came back to finish the video and checked the comments - and WHEW - its really an 18! My day just got a whole lot better! 👍
Just swapped out a bearing today using this guide. It went pretty smooth and the hardest part for me was removing the dust cap on the bearing. It took quite a bit of hammering a flat head to get out. The carrier bolts came out relatively easily. Thanks again for the clear instructions 👍
@@HumbleMechanic I know this is an old video, but you say in the video to use m17 triple square for the wheel bearing assy. the kit you show in the description only has an m16 and m18 triple square socket. Most kits I’ve seen only have these sizes too. Just want to make sure before I start working on my bearings
happy543210 did you get the proper vw tool to make this comment about vw specialty tools, or were you able to manage with something around the garage? But seriously, they kind of have to have a specialty tool for everything to make the manufacturing process as quick and easy as possible while allowing the job to be done by the least skilled, aka inexpensive, labor to do the work in a manner that cannot damage the new vehicle, in the factory. Therefore there will be a lot of “special tools” but really a mechanic doesn’t need all of them per se. Just specific ones like timing tools and more technical tools while the special dust cap tool for MKV cars can be a chisel (or straight screwdriver, let’s me honest) and hammer.
@@plunderbunny84 I've been looking for the M17 triple square for a solid day to move avail!! Oh...I can order from the UK and have it in Canada in 10 days though! Thanks VAG!!!
I don't mind anymore. I was gonna go Asian import , and someone smacked the wife head on at 40 in her 04 Passat. (she was stopped) She had a little bruise. Nope I'll take the pita repairs anyday if I've got a safe car. Rip Diesel Princess, you will be missed , but your 2.0pd heart shall live on someday in my mk1❤️
Will have to check mine, some days ago I hitted a curb and the rear axle is -4.5 degrees off. In the shop I was told that the wheel bearing MUST be replaced. S***t happens! Thanks for the insight, as always, excellent videos.
I didn't have a breaker bar my buddy had it and was on vacation so I improvised. Car was on all 4 jack stands for Halden service at the ttime. Just put my 1/2 ratchet on and had it parallel and used my audi jack stand to slowly break my 24 mm 12 point bolt loose. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.. hope this helps someone one day...also make sure you use one hand to keep the socket in place so it does strip and a weird angle.
Prompt timing for this vid. Working on my Mk5 Rabbit's right now. 4ft pipe and breaker bar. This is by far the easiest set up, compared to the fronts. I still have nightmares of the torches (for heating the hub up) and rust. Ty for the tip not to use power tools, its arm day ;-) and this all started with the ABS/Squeel Tires on Pavement lights on. Used the Vagcom to verify the sensors are working. The ring on one WB was half gone. Doing both as you suggested. 150k miles.
Watched this before doing my own. Great advice all the way through so many thanks for a super vid. I’d seen other videos and seen plenty of comments about blokes struggling with the carrier bolts being too tight to move so I just removed the calliper M8 bolts. Went like a dream. Great job and thanks.
Thanks for this dude, really helped! I have to say though, getting those brake caliper bolts off without having the car on a lift was w***! I had to make a dog-legged extension to my breaker bar just to crack the bolts. 2 hours it took! Reassembly, done in 20 minutes. Way she blows. At least my ABS sensor works again now :)
Yeah they are a pain in the ass. I lay up against a wall and used my leg to crack them loose. Passenger side = 2 hours to do. Drivers side = 30 minutes. Learnt quite a bit from the first side!
I just replaced this last week. I diagnosed it right as the passenger side rear wheel bearing, bought the parts, then tried to replace it myself. I couldn't get anything off, though. I couldn't get through the rust. I put it back together, took it to a mechanic, he replaced it, but he charged me a lot because it was a hell to take off apparently. Oh well... EDIT: I really wish I watched this video, first.
I think the difference is the amount of torque you can put on a rusted bolts, screws, etc. when the car is on a lift vs when the car is lifted up by a couple of jack stands. As always, thank you for the video.
Awesome content really eye opening for me. Gives me heads up before I have to tackle these types of projects. Knowledge is power thank you for spreading your knowledge!!!!!
I need to do this on my mk5, there is a 30mm or 32mm inner diameter for the bearing so make sure you get the correct size for anyone doing this job! I found out the hard way haha..
Brandon Montgomery mine is a 2008 and needed the smaller 30mm I.D bearing. Not really sure how to work out which size you need, don’t know if it’s the model or the year. My car is a GTTDI which I think has the same setup as a GTI suspension wise.
@@bendude6748 - if you look at the back of the wheel hub face the 32mm is a smooth one, the 30mm has a pattern cast into it - sadly you need to remove the hub before you can see the back of the hub face.
Why remove the caliper bracket. I leave that caliper 5:02 bracket on,and only take off the caliper and hang it by a coat hanger. The rotor will come off after you remove the rotor screw. The bearings barely have any grease . I push in some synthetic wheel bearing grease and put a little grease until the rollers are ate least covered. I don’t fill the whole cavity.
Right underneath the cap on the bearing hub outside if you look in they are sealed to the inboard side but not to the out side . You can push grease into the side where the hub cap goes. My original set I had pushed in synthetic grease to the outer race. They went like 195,000. They were still good. I was changing the rotor dust shield plates so I changed to a new set of bearings. I don’t think they’ll match the original ones for life. These new Chinese made one I did mot add grease will see. Chinese made time will tell.
@@donaldhyatt6078 Interesting. My new ones are already in and I still have the old ones. Will check them out. Cheers for that. I’m guessing you’re pushing the grease through a needle then? I did mine as I was already replacing my front axles. Found them to be in ok but well used condition. Pretty good for 13 years. Replaced with FAG bearings and axles.
Just to clarify, when you say 'not to use an impact on this bolt' at 4:57 , the workshop manual states not to use an impact because socket T10162 is a non impact socket - that is the reason it states twice not to use an impact, not because you shouldn't use it on the bolt but the official tripple square/spline bits used by VW workshops are CRV, and hence are not impact rated and could shatter. If using a CRM socket bit then you can use an impact........not that you will probably get anywhere unless you have an impact wrench that can put out 2000nm of torque! (i know from experience on this one, 1200nm nut busting torque wouldn't shift this mother!)
Not saying what you did was wrong at all, its a matter of opinion, but I was always told when you torque a bolt then with a certain degree after it that you should click it then, when doing 180 degrees for example, to do it in one go. Don't know if it makes a difference? Usually is the case with stretch bolts on cylinder head though i believe. P.S I hope you're changing those rear discs too haha like it's been left in salt water for a week. Great content, always love watching. From Wales, UK.
@@HumbleMechanic haha I'll admit it takes a bit of strength (If not weight) to torque to such a high spec. I have had some where you get the heaviest person in the building to torque a bolt/nut and even they can't reach the full degree setting haha it would be good to see the difference if there is any :) are they harder on a haldex Quattro setup do you reckon?
The bolt for the wheel bearing is M16 triple square (07 gti). The bolts (2) for the caliper carrier are M14 triple square and a nightmare to get off (especially the bottom one). It's a struggle to get the caliper off, removing the whole thing like he did in the video is the way to go. Don't cheap out, get a new dust cap. The bearing is not sealed without the dust cap. You don't want crap to get in the bearing and shorten it's life. Replace wheel bearings in pairs. Do left and right in the rear together.
Is it required or recommended to place more lubricant after cleaning all the debris from the old hub? Going to be doing this repair soon and just curious
Hello,im doing my homework on this job, as i will need to install new bearings on my skoda fabia mk1 wich looks very similar and the bearing itself also as the exposed bering balls as yours does. My question is should or shouldn't i aplly some grease on those balls?
I tend to get a single knock sound around my front right wheel when I am reversing with full lock steering to the right. Sometimes when driving forward up a ramp with full lock steering to the right, I get a similar knock sound as well. Is this a wheel bearing failure? My lower control arms, ball joints, tie rods, end links, ARBs, driveshafts, coilovers, top strut mounts are all relatively new (
I installed a new bearing. During the process of installation I hit the bearing several times with the hammer. Actually I hammered the hub (with a plastic hammer though) it almost in 1/3, then used press, but didn't know I need to use a lip on the bottom. The center of the bearing came off on the bottom like for 1 mm. I placed the lip and made it even again with the hammer. The hub is rotating very good, but gives a slight grinding noise, not like the other one I replaced before, which rotates with more efforts, but doesn't make any sound. Should I replace that bearing with the slight grinding sound? Probably I shouldn't hammer it that much (though with the soft hammer). Thank you for the informative film.
Hey Charles! Thanks for this video, did that job last weekend to replace the splash guard. Unfortunately I had to drill the brake disc "position" screw because I stripped the head. Is this screw necessary? I don't think so but I think that the caliper is a bit stuck now, the wheel is not turning freely (didn't have the tool to push back the piston). Thanks PS: for anyone attempting this job, don't do like me. Be sure to remove that screw BEFORE removing the caliper or the disc will turn when you try to unscrew it.
I did the brakes all around on my VW Rabbit a few months ago, and I stripped 3 out of 4 of the rotor set screws, just like you did for the one. The screw is totally not necessary because your wheel and lug bolts hold the rotor onto the hub. So the screw is not needed at all. If your caliper is stuck, then that might be an issue with the caliper itself. Hope this helps. -Anthony
I know i'm late to the party. if it means anything on my mk6 I did the same with 1 out of 4. I drilled down the centre of the screw and used a stud extractor. made the job a lot longer, but was a pain. They're not needed, just help keep the rotor on whilst you have the wheel off. I dab a bit of copper grease on mine every time now to make sure it doesn't happen in the future.
Thanks for video. I use it this past weekend to replace my rear driver side wheel bearing. My car was really loud. Finally some quiet driving. Bought all spare part from FCP. I got a stuck handbrake caliper. The spring will not return it. I had to pull it back by hand. Anything thing I should look at or video you can direct me too. Thanks.
Hey Charles, I’m looking through several videos for a job I’m starting tomorrow. My mk5 2.5 Jetta 5 speed, 0A4 trans, has started leaking from the differential output shaft seal. In the output flange that the axles bolt to, there is space in between the axle and the output transaxle flange. There is tons of grease in there, is that safe to pack with wheel bearing grease? Haynes manual has no info on this and wanted to get advice from a VW tech. What spec of grease should go between that axle and flange? Thanks in advance, you’ve always been the man at VWs! Well, you and Paul.
Great video! Glad I seen this before I have to do my wheel bearing and know that I don't have to take my caliper all the way off. Question tho, you recommend packing the bearing with grease or what it comes with should be enough?
You can break loose the bolt holding the bearing before you Jack the car up , then after replacing the new bearing and bolt you can do the half then after you replace the wheel and lower the car down in the ground to make it easier just fyi
Great job Charles! I'm working on a 2006, the abs sensor has been damaged by the bearing assembly, bringing up an ABS fault. I'm thinking an after market bearing assembly has been fitted at some point, so it's looking like replacing the bearing assy, as well as the sensor.
Back to this video...replaced a bearing, not sure what brand, something from NAPA, on the Drivers Rear and its making a nasty like...go kart type cheap wheel sound... as if maybe you're on a crappy roller coaster. Bearing even has some play in it. Lovely jubly. Not a bad job at all to anyone considering doing it, just a pain to do it again lol.
Is a bad rear wheel bearing also related to vibrations? I have a golf 6 and for some reason it vibrates and shakes from the back for no reason after I hit a speed above 80km/h. This phenomenon is intermitent, it doesn’t happen all the time. I don’t really know what the problem is. I know some of you will say that the tires are bad, but if the tires are bad it should vibrate all the time, right?
I’m having a tough time getting those 2 carrier bolts out even though I let it soak with pb blaster and liquid wrench for awhile. Too afraid to use a small torch to heat the bolts lol
if you are taking off the whole caliper (I have a golf mk6) and not replacing the brake pads do you have to compress the caliper if you pads are not taken out or even if they are, thank you
Great video, but just a small question as far as diagnosis is concerned. I've got a Mk7.5 GTI. Hit a pothole recently which was bad enough to bend the wheel. Replaced the wheels, but I still have a bit of a rumble sound AND some vibration/shaking at various speeds. Would a damaged hub cause both the sound and vibration or is it likely I'm looking for something else as well? I've had two suspension diagnostics and an alignment done since replacing the wheel and they say there's nothing wrong with the suspension.
I just changed my MK5's bearing outside in the snow and it's -26C (about -15F) and also damn dark too. And some people say us Finns are a bit crazy. I wonder why.
Steve Rein, I have a 2009 VW Rabbit, which is close to the GTI, changing the wheel bearings. my bearings did not come with a new nut or dust cap. I have 581,475 km, never have changed the rear wheel bearins, needed to do the brakes and rotors so I am changing the bearings. What is the first torque spec for the nut? what is the torque spec for the two bolts for the calipercarrier.? Thank you.
You did not mention that the back side inner race likes to come off and stay behind. I've seen 3 tow in where people replaced their own and couldn't figure out why the new bearing would not go all the way back on in the last year...
Man I have replaced 30 of these over the years, and seen tons more replaced and the shop. Never seen one come apart like you are saying. The MK4/B5 all did it. The bearing was kind of pressed in. Something to keep an eye on, but I have never seen or heard of it on this generation
2 місяці тому
problem is there is 30mm axle and 32mm axle rear there. Only change to check it is remove bearing set and measure it. Then you have to put that - one time only - axle bolt back and drive to the car spare part store.
My trick to check a rear wheel bearing is to spin the wheel and put my hand on the rear spring. You'll feel the vibrations from the bad wheel bearing through the springs.
hi @HumbleMechanic - for an MK6 - can I get away with just buying the bearing and figuring out a way to press out and press-in the bearing into the existing housing?
Thanks for the answer! I am just starting to take vw/audi's in at my shop and I have been watching your videos for tips on these demon possessed vehicles!
Hey bud awesome video. I have an idea for a video at the dealership we have been running into replacing alot steering wheel ignition cylinder lock housings. I have done 3 this week one on a R32 and 2 mk 5 jetta's
Since you have been a vw tech and have years of experience with using torx,hex, and triple square bolts. I'm curious on what tool brand that you use or other mechanics find as a reliable set, especially in the form of extended impact set.
Like deep impact sockets? I have usually used the cheap ones from Northern tool LOL. Other than a 17mm and 19mm. I bought better ones for taking off wheel bolts.
@@HumbleMechanic I'm thinking like the ones you can get at harbor freight, but not snappy crappy. Been running into more and more Torx and hex of late that are larger than 10 mm, so I'm looking for a good set of them without breaking the bank
Awesome video makes a lot of sense! Would this be the same for the Mk6 Jetta (2011) with drum brakes? I’m looking to swap the drums to disc and it looks like I gotta remove the hub in order to swap the splash shield. Might just replace the hub as well. Also do you have a part number or link for the special tool to get the bearing cap off? Had no luck using various flatheads haha I can opt for a chisel but would be nice to have the Vw tool for collection purposes.
I have a Mk4 New Beetle that was a "grandma car"--owned by a 90-something woman and VERY infrequently driven and only for short distances. I just changed the rear brakes on it and the rotors were worse than the ones in the video. I should have taken a picture.
Preproto That is absolutely nothing. Come to London Ontario and work on a farm truck. I’ve seen them come in riding on the pads backing plate with 1/16 deep grooves. Rotors worn so bad they come in and are gone. As always all we get is :” there’s a noise in the brakes could you check it out?”
I bought new stub axles and bearings for my 2004 GTI. They appear to have such a tight tolerance that it will be necessary to cold soak the stub axles to a very low temperature and heat soak the bearings, just to get them to mate. Did you experience this issue? If so, do you have tips you can share to make the mating of these parts easier? Should a certain tool be used for mating the bearing to the stub axle? The bearing definitely will not slide on by hand while at room temperature. I'm unsure if the bearing will slide on if the axle is cold soaked and if the bearing is heat soaked. Your perspective is appreciated. Thanks.
@@RedondoBeach2 It’s been a couple of years since I did it, but from memory I tried it without the hot and cold approach at first and it was impossible. Even with the hot and cold it was difficult. I think I found a socket or maybe it was the old inner race to pound it on so I would not destroy the bearing. I do remember pounding the crap out of it, worrying I might destroy the bearing. Just make sure you hit the inner race and not the bearing. I might of used a different approach on the other side (replaced both) using the old stub axle nut, the old inner races, bearing press adapters and a impact to get it on. Similar to using a bolt and bearing press adapters used in pressing front bearings on this vehicle. I pounded it on enough to then use the axle nut and impact to get it the rest of the way. If you do end up using the old inner races make sure you take some metal off the inside of the race with a die grinder, dremel, or file so it does not get stuck on the stub axle. I have two cheap Amazon bearing press kits and those adapters have come in handy. The bearings have been on the vehicle 2+ years so I guess I did not damage the bearings. Good luck.
I have the first situation. A low noise/vibration when I turn left. I suspect the front right bearing, but I will fix it when the sound will become louder and I will know for sure its the bearing.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Man, you've saved my bacon again. Just had a wheel bearing go out on my MK6 with 174k miles. My immediate thought was "I hope Charles has a video on this". Simply awesome.
HAHAH AWESOME indeed
I think that I mis-spoke about the size of the BIG triple square. It should be an 18! The link in the description will get ya the right deal! Happy DIYing!
What are your thought on adding a little bearing grease under the dust cap?
Its a sealed bearing. not necessary.
@@xtraCreamcheese If you notice, the dust cap is the outer seal.
You said triple square. Humble mechanic isn't won't a torx socket fit that?
And please Charles. Gimme some TDI videos. I have a 2013 Jetta TDI. You should buy one and fix it up to make it fast. Those TDI can be modded up to 300+ horses and 400+ torque
Great video! I have a 2012 Audi A3 8P and used this video as a guide. One tip for A3 8P owners, you DO NOT need to remove the caliper bracket to remove the rotor. There is plenty of room that the rotor can be easily guided around the bracket.
Thanks for all these videos man, helping me keep my MK5 as good as new on the cheap!
Greetings from the future - my MK5 is still alive because of all of these videos, many thanks!
Man, I went searching the internet for a M17 TS, as my kit has 16 & 18, but not 17! Super hard to find a 17, so I took a break and mowed the lawn. Came back to finish the video and checked the comments - and WHEW - its really an 18! My day just got a whole lot better! 👍
Yep, he almost threw me off also.
Thank you! Getting the tools together now before taking the wheels off.
Charles! The production quality of the video here just sky rocketed! Great tutorial as always.
Thank you so much!!!
Just swapped out a bearing today using this guide.
It went pretty smooth and the hardest part for me was removing the dust cap on the bearing. It took quite a bit of hammering a flat head to get out.
The carrier bolts came out relatively easily.
Thanks again for the clear instructions 👍
Awesome!!
@@HumbleMechanic I know this is an old video, but you say in the video to use m17 triple square for the wheel bearing assy. the kit you show in the description only has an m16 and m18 triple square socket. Most kits I’ve seen only have these sizes too. Just want to make sure before I start working on my bearings
@@teevee00 18 is at my golf 5 tdi 2.0. I think he made a mistake maybe.
@@maximus-6788 that’s what I was thinking thanks :)
This guy is my go to euro guy for my mk5. Thank you!!!! I want my gti autographed by you!
Thank you!!!!
@@HumbleMechanic your a legend bro. I just watched your audi s4 transmission swap! Any way i can get a decal of your autograph for my mk5 gti??
just getting within 10 feet of a vw requires a specialty tool!!
happy543210 did you get the proper vw tool to make this comment about vw specialty tools, or were you able to manage with something around the garage?
But seriously, they kind of have to have a specialty tool for everything to make the manufacturing process as quick and easy as possible while allowing the job to be done by the least skilled, aka inexpensive, labor to do the work in a manner that cannot damage the new vehicle, in the factory. Therefore there will be a lot of “special tools” but really a mechanic doesn’t need all of them per se. Just specific ones like timing tools and more technical tools while the special dust cap tool for MKV cars can be a chisel (or straight screwdriver, let’s me honest) and hammer.
@@plunderbunny84 I've been looking for the M17 triple square for a solid day to move avail!! Oh...I can order from the UK and have it in Canada in 10 days though! Thanks VAG!!!
I don't mind anymore.
I was gonna go Asian import , and someone smacked the wife head on at 40 in her 04 Passat.
(she was stopped)
She had a little bruise.
Nope I'll take the pita repairs anyday if I've got a safe car.
Rip Diesel Princess, you will be missed , but your 2.0pd heart shall live on someday in my mk1❤️
@@robertmuckle2985 There starting to come to local shops in the USA now. I had to order my hex and spline bits from Amazon
What specialty tool is used ?!?
this guy is like an angel sent from heaven
I'm gonna tackle this job tomorrow, I now have enough confidence to do it. Thank you so much for the informative, great video!
You got this!
This tutorial was even better than the Autodoc one.
Will have to check mine, some days ago I hitted a curb and the rear axle is -4.5 degrees off. In the shop I was told that the wheel bearing MUST be replaced. S***t happens! Thanks for the insight, as always, excellent videos.
Simple straight forward video. Made the job much easier for me! Thanks!
Excellent. I just had one of these replaced. Your video really helped me to understand what actually took place as part of the repair. Thank You!
I didn't have a breaker bar my buddy had it and was on vacation so I improvised. Car was on all 4 jack stands for Halden service at the ttime. Just put my 1/2 ratchet on and had it parallel and used my audi jack stand to slowly break my 24 mm 12 point bolt loose. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.. hope this helps someone one day...also make sure you use one hand to keep the socket in place so it does strip and a weird angle.
Prompt timing for this vid. Working on my Mk5 Rabbit's right now. 4ft pipe and breaker bar. This is by far the easiest set up, compared to the fronts. I still have nightmares of the torches (for heating the hub up) and rust. Ty for the tip not to use power tools, its arm day ;-) and this all started with the ABS/Squeel Tires on Pavement lights on. Used the Vagcom to verify the sensors are working. The ring on one WB was half gone. Doing both as you suggested. 150k miles.
Incredibly helpful with clear explanation. Thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial. Followed step-by-step and replaced both rear hubs fairly easily....
Sweet
Nice tuition mate,good job !
Watched this before doing my own. Great advice all the way through so many thanks for a super vid. I’d seen other videos and seen plenty of comments about blokes struggling with the carrier bolts being too tight to move so I just removed the calliper M8 bolts. Went like a dream. Great job and thanks.
Many thanks Humble As ever a great informative vid. Both rears done today. Fronts being done next month
Awesome tutorial, thanks for sharing this with us. Live long & prosper!
Thanks for this dude, really helped! I have to say though, getting those brake caliper bolts off without having the car on a lift was w***! I had to make a dog-legged extension to my breaker bar just to crack the bolts. 2 hours it took! Reassembly, done in 20 minutes. Way she blows. At least my ABS sensor works again now :)
Yeah they are a pain in the ass. I lay up against a wall and used my leg to crack them loose. Passenger side = 2 hours to do. Drivers side = 30 minutes. Learnt quite a bit from the first side!
I just replaced this last week. I diagnosed it right as the passenger side rear wheel bearing, bought the parts, then tried to replace it myself. I couldn't get anything off, though. I couldn't get through the rust. I put it back together, took it to a mechanic, he replaced it, but he charged me a lot because it was a hell to take off apparently. Oh well...
EDIT: I really wish I watched this video, first.
Oh man. I hate hearing that
I think the difference is the amount of torque you can put on a rusted bolts, screws, etc. when the car is on a lift vs when the car is lifted up by a couple of jack stands. As always, thank you for the video.
Awesome content really eye opening for me. Gives me heads up before I have to tackle these types of projects. Knowledge is power thank you for spreading your knowledge!!!!!
AWESOME! Most jobs are not as hard as they seem LOL
That was a really nice tip with giving the rotor a whack to release it from the bearing. I was totally stuck on that 👍
You make it look easy! Thanks for another great video!
Thanks Charles, as always your video is the best!
GREAT VIDEO CHARLES! Thank you brother!!!
Thanks man! Hope you are well!!!
I need to do this on my mk5, there is a 30mm or 32mm inner diameter for the bearing so make sure you get the correct size for anyone doing this job! I found out the hard way haha..
Yikes. I thankfully never got the Wrong one.
HumbleMechanic I’m from the UK so could be different here I guess. :)
Bendude seems to be the same here in Australia also what year was yours and what ID size did you require?
Brandon Montgomery mine is a 2008 and needed the smaller 30mm I.D bearing. Not really sure how to work out which size you need, don’t know if it’s the model or the year. My car is a GTTDI which I think has the same setup as a GTI suspension wise.
@@bendude6748 - if you look at the back of the wheel hub face the 32mm is a smooth one, the 30mm has a pattern cast into it - sadly you need to remove the hub before you can see the back of the hub face.
Why remove the caliper bracket. I leave that caliper 5:02 bracket on,and only take off the caliper and hang it by a coat hanger. The rotor will come off after you remove the rotor screw. The bearings barely have any grease . I push in some synthetic wheel bearing grease and put a little grease until the rollers are ate least covered. I don’t fill the whole cavity.
The bearings appear sealed. How are you putting any more grease in them? Are you disassembling them to inspect/add grease?
Right underneath the cap on the bearing hub outside if you look in they are sealed to the inboard side but not to the out side . You can push grease into the side where the hub cap goes. My original set I had pushed in synthetic grease to the outer race. They went like 195,000. They were still good. I was changing the rotor dust shield plates so I changed to a new set of bearings. I don’t think they’ll match the original ones for life. These new Chinese made one I did mot add grease will see. Chinese made time will tell.
@@donaldhyatt6078 Interesting. My new ones are already in and I still have the old ones. Will check them out. Cheers for that. I’m guessing you’re pushing the grease through a needle then?
I did mine as I was already replacing my front axles. Found them to be in ok but well used condition. Pretty good for 13 years. Replaced with FAG bearings and axles.
I love how there is a special tool for even the simplest of jobs lol
Hahaha it’s the German way
Brilliant tutorial Thank you
Just to clarify, when you say 'not to use an impact on this bolt' at 4:57 , the workshop manual states not to use an impact because socket T10162 is a non impact socket - that is the reason it states twice not to use an impact, not because you shouldn't use it on the bolt but the official tripple square/spline bits used by VW workshops are CRV, and hence are not impact rated and could shatter. If using a CRM socket bit then you can use an impact........not that you will probably get anywhere unless you have an impact wrench that can put out 2000nm of torque! (i know from experience on this one, 1200nm nut busting torque wouldn't shift this mother!)
Thanks Charles!
Dig it Charles!
Not saying what you did was wrong at all, its a matter of opinion, but I was always told when you torque a bolt then with a certain degree after it that you should click it then, when doing 180 degrees for example, to do it in one go. Don't know if it makes a difference? Usually is the case with stretch bolts on cylinder head though i believe. P.S I hope you're changing those rear discs too haha like it's been left in salt water for a week.
Great content, always love watching. From Wales, UK.
That would be ideal, but I am not strong enough for that LOL. I bet if we did that both ways and measured the actual stretch, it would be super close.
@@HumbleMechanic haha I'll admit it takes a bit of strength (If not weight) to torque to such a high spec. I have had some where you get the heaviest person in the building to torque a bolt/nut and even they can't reach the full degree setting haha it would be good to see the difference if there is any :) are they harder on a haldex Quattro setup do you reckon?
The bolt for the wheel bearing is M16 triple square (07 gti).
The bolts (2) for the caliper carrier are M14 triple square and a nightmare to get off (especially the bottom one).
It's a struggle to get the caliper off, removing the whole thing like he did in the video is the way to go.
Don't cheap out, get a new dust cap. The bearing is not sealed without the dust cap. You don't want crap to get in the bearing and shorten it's life.
Replace wheel bearings in pairs. Do left and right in the rear together.
Correction m18 triple square for wheel bearing bolt
awesome video, many thanks
Thanks for the tutorial nicely done ✅
Is it required or recommended to place more lubricant after cleaning all the debris from the old hub? Going to be doing this repair soon and just curious
Men you are soo Good, thank you so much for the Video realy helpful ....
Thank you!
Thank you!
Excelente vídeo 👌
Jesus wheel bearings on VW's are super simple.
yep WAY better than the press in kind. LOL
Also much better than having 4 bolts behind the hub that you have to take off with a hand wrench.
NeOnLaZeR unfortunately the front wheel bearings have that design on the mk5 lol, I was lucky to get them out they were so seized in behind there.
You can get power tools in there if you’re crafty. 😎
Well Mk3s do have the press in type. Fuck that shite.
That actually looks pretty easy.
SUPER easy.
Hello,im doing my homework on this job, as i will need to install new bearings on my skoda fabia mk1 wich looks very similar and the bearing itself also as the exposed bering balls as yours does. My question is should or shouldn't i aplly some grease on those balls?
I tend to get a single knock sound around my front right wheel when I am reversing with full lock steering to the right. Sometimes when driving forward up a ramp with full lock steering to the right, I get a similar knock sound as well. Is this a wheel bearing failure?
My lower control arms, ball joints, tie rods, end links, ARBs, driveshafts, coilovers, top strut mounts are all relatively new (
I installed a new bearing. During the process of installation I hit the bearing several times with the hammer. Actually I hammered the hub (with a plastic hammer though) it almost in 1/3, then used press, but didn't know I need to use a lip on the bottom. The center of the bearing came off on the bottom like for 1 mm. I placed the lip and made it even again with the hammer. The hub is rotating very good, but gives a slight grinding noise, not like the other one I replaced before, which rotates with more efforts, but doesn't make any sound. Should I replace that bearing with the slight grinding sound? Probably I shouldn't hammer it that much (though with the soft hammer). Thank you for the informative film.
my rein front wheel bearing for a 2006 rabbit did not come with thread locker on the axle bolt. awesome vids btw, great work.
Thanks!
Hey Charles! Thanks for this video, did that job last weekend to replace the splash guard. Unfortunately I had to drill the brake disc "position" screw because I stripped the head. Is this screw necessary? I don't think so but I think that the caliper is a bit stuck now, the wheel is not turning freely (didn't have the tool to push back the piston). Thanks
PS: for anyone attempting this job, don't do like me. Be sure to remove that screw BEFORE removing the caliper or the disc will turn when you try to unscrew it.
I did the brakes all around on my VW Rabbit a few months ago, and I stripped 3 out of 4 of the rotor set screws, just like you did for the one. The screw is totally not necessary because your wheel and lug bolts hold the rotor onto the hub. So the screw is not needed at all. If your caliper is stuck, then that might be an issue with the caliper itself. Hope this helps.
-Anthony
@@anthonyf.8336 thanks for your answer, yes it's indeed the caliper itself :)
I know i'm late to the party. if it means anything on my mk6 I did the same with 1 out of 4. I drilled down the centre of the screw and used a stud extractor. made the job a lot longer, but was a pain. They're not needed, just help keep the rotor on whilst you have the wheel off. I dab a bit of copper grease on mine every time now to make sure it doesn't happen in the future.
@@WatchingDan95 yeah, I could have done that too, but I was to lazy to put the caliper back on so that the disc didn't turn 😅 just drilled through
Can you do a vid of changing the pendulum mount on the MK5 please
Thanks for video. I use it this past weekend to replace my rear driver side wheel bearing. My car was really loud. Finally some quiet driving. Bought all spare part from FCP.
I got a stuck handbrake caliper. The spring will not return it. I had to pull it back by hand. Anything thing I should look at or video you can direct me too. Thanks.
Hey Charles, I’m looking through several videos for a job I’m starting tomorrow. My mk5 2.5 Jetta 5 speed, 0A4 trans, has started leaking from the differential output shaft seal. In the output flange that the axles bolt to, there is space in between the axle and the output transaxle flange. There is tons of grease in there, is that safe to pack with wheel bearing grease? Haynes manual has no info on this and wanted to get advice from a VW tech. What spec of grease should go between that axle and flange? Thanks in advance, you’ve always been the man at VWs! Well, you and Paul.
Hey boss u just got a new subscriber God bless
Thank you
one quick question , is that the same procedure on 2012 VW jetta and 2017 VW Tiguan . thanks and I appreciate your help
Great video! Glad I seen this before I have to do my wheel bearing and know that I don't have to take my caliper all the way off. Question tho, you recommend packing the bearing with grease or what it comes with should be enough?
You can break loose the bolt holding the bearing before you Jack the car up , then after replacing the new bearing and bolt you can do the half then after you replace the wheel and lower the car down in the ground to make it easier just fyi
Great job Charles!
I'm working on a 2006, the abs sensor has been damaged by the bearing assembly, bringing up an ABS fault.
I'm thinking an after market bearing assembly has been fitted at some point, so it's looking like replacing the bearing assy, as well as the sensor.
Wow damn!!
If that bolt that said in the beginning that you stated you need to make sure triple bit is in fully. The bolt snapped off, what are my options?
Does the torque specs change from mk5 to mk6? I have seen like 5 different specs for this.
You don't necessarily need to remove the carrier. Few wacks of a mallet will see the disc off without the carrier being off. Just the calliper
Back to this video...replaced a bearing, not sure what brand, something from NAPA, on the Drivers Rear and its making a nasty like...go kart type cheap wheel sound... as if maybe you're on a crappy roller coaster. Bearing even has some play in it. Lovely jubly. Not a bad job at all to anyone considering doing it, just a pain to do it again lol.
Is a bad rear wheel bearing also related to vibrations? I have a golf 6 and for some reason it vibrates and shakes from the back for no reason after I hit a speed above 80km/h. This phenomenon is intermitent, it doesn’t happen all the time. I don’t really know what the problem is. I know some of you will say that the tires are bad, but if the tires are bad it should vibrate all the time, right?
I’m having a tough time getting those 2 carrier bolts out even though I let it soak with pb blaster and liquid wrench for awhile. Too afraid to use a small torch to heat the bolts lol
if you are taking off the whole caliper (I have a golf mk6) and not replacing the brake pads do you have to compress the caliper if you pads are not taken out or even if they are, thank you
Hi,great video. Is the same methode and for vw tiguan 4 motion my 2012? Thanks
Very close. Almost same. (Might be exactly same)
@@HumbleMechanic Thanks man. Cheers
Thanks for the vid Charles! Is the front wheel bearings torque the same as the front?
Great video, but just a small question as far as diagnosis is concerned. I've got a Mk7.5 GTI. Hit a pothole recently which was bad enough to bend the wheel. Replaced the wheels, but I still have a bit of a rumble sound AND some vibration/shaking at various speeds. Would a damaged hub cause both the sound and vibration or is it likely I'm looking for something else as well? I've had two suspension diagnostics and an alignment done since replacing the wheel and they say there's nothing wrong with the suspension.
Possible. What about the tire?
I just changed my MK5's bearing outside in the snow and it's -26C (about -15F) and also damn dark too. And some people say us Finns are a bit crazy. I wonder why.
That is awesome... and crazy!
LOL
Hi my friend! Very good job! I want to ask you if I have to put some grease before wheel bearing?
not on this one I don't
Grease is a must on a bearing
Steve Rein, I have a 2009 VW Rabbit, which is close to the GTI, changing the wheel bearings. my bearings did not come with a new nut or dust cap. I have 581,475 km, never have changed the rear wheel bearins, needed to do the brakes and rotors so I am changing the bearings. What is the first torque spec for the nut? what is the torque spec for the two bolts for the calipercarrier.? Thank you.
You did not mention that the back side inner race likes to come off and stay behind. I've seen 3 tow in where people replaced their own and couldn't figure out why the new bearing would not go all the way back on in the last year...
Nope because that doesn’t happen on these. That’s a mk4/b5 issue.
@@HumbleMechanic does too. Its been specifcially mk5 that seem to be coming in this way.
Man I have replaced 30 of these over the years, and seen tons more replaced and the shop. Never seen one come apart like you are saying. The MK4/B5 all did it. The bearing was kind of pressed in. Something to keep an eye on, but I have never seen or heard of it on this generation
problem is there is 30mm axle and 32mm axle rear there. Only change to check it is remove bearing set and measure it. Then you have to put that - one time only - axle bolt back and drive to the car spare part store.
Hello Charles , could you do the same for front MK5 bearing , think they are not similar.. Regards
My trick to check a rear wheel bearing is to spin the wheel and put my hand on the rear spring.
You'll feel the vibrations from the bad wheel bearing through the springs.
I think that is a great option.
I find that most useful on a front bearing because the spring/strut is bolted directly to the hub rather than away from it like on the rear
That's true, but I have yet to be proven wrong with this method ;)
hi @HumbleMechanic - for an MK6 - can I get away with just buying the bearing and figuring out a way to press out and press-in the bearing into the existing housing?
Great video! Have you seen or heard of damage caused be someone using an impact on the wheel bearing bolt?
I have not seen any issues, I can see a place where running the bolt in could damage the bearing cage.
Thanks for the answer! I am just starting to take vw/audi's in at my shop and I have been watching your videos for tips on these demon possessed vehicles!
I usually grease the stub axle not sure if it's the right way to do it but I've always done it.
Can you please do the video on replacing the breaks sooner than later. Could use your tips when i do my rotors and pads all around on my rabbit
I will do my best for ya.
buy yourself a windback tool they are definitely worth it, even if you buy the cheapest one on ebay
Your videos have been great help for me with repairs and maintenance.
Do i need to use the wind back tool on both rear and front calipers?
Is it really difficult to do the last 180° for the bolt holding the wheel bearing or will a 24" breaker bar do the job easy enough?
Just watching this because i did only about 60 degrees and don't know if i want to go any more as it's super strong
My second wheel went much better I did 180°
Not without my scaffolding pipe friend)
Sooo. Not to undermind you or any thing! But my mk5 gti wheel bearing bolt took an 18mm triple square to remove. Is this one different???
It is M18 triple square. Just replaced my wheel bearing assy.
Hey bud awesome video. I have an idea for a video at the dealership we have been running into replacing alot steering wheel ignition cylinder lock housings. I have done 3 this week one on a R32 and 2 mk 5 jetta's
I NEED to do that video.
Do you have to remove the hub to remove the brake dust cover
Why do you reckon they advised against using impact tools on the hub bolt? Are they worried it'd sheer the head off or something?
My guess is it's more of a going back on than taking off. Not wanting to upset the bearing cages.
If that hub is bad does it effect the toe on the alignment on the rear of the car please help me with my question
Hi Charles, if I am going to remove a rear wheel bearing in a MK4 to install drop plates, can I do it like this? Remove and reuse the bearing?
Not really on the mk4. It sort of gets pressed in. I haven’t really been able to reuse the bearings.
HumbleMechanic thank you
Since you have been a vw tech and have years of experience with using torx,hex, and triple square bolts. I'm curious on what tool brand that you use or other mechanics find as a reliable set, especially in the form of extended impact set.
Like deep impact sockets? I have usually used the cheap ones from Northern tool LOL. Other than a 17mm and 19mm. I bought better ones for taking off wheel bolts.
@@HumbleMechanic I'm thinking like the ones you can get at harbor freight, but not snappy crappy. Been running into more and more Torx and hex of late that are larger than 10 mm, so I'm looking for a good set of them without breaking the bank
Do you not have to add grease with the new bearing?
Awesome video makes a lot of sense! Would this be the same for the Mk6 Jetta (2011) with drum brakes? I’m looking to swap the drums to disc and it looks like I gotta remove the hub in order to swap the splash shield. Might just replace the hub as well. Also do you have a part number or link for the special tool to get the bearing cap off? Had no luck using various flatheads haha I can opt for a chisel but would be nice to have the Vw tool for collection purposes.
And of course, my GTI is special and requires an M17 spline tool. Got both M16 and M18. And none of the local shops has it...
Amazing
That must be the worst brake rotor I've ever seen lol
No doubt. They were toast
Was hard to watch you put it back on! haha
I have a Mk4 New Beetle that was a "grandma car"--owned by a 90-something woman and VERY infrequently driven and only for short distances. I just changed the rear brakes on it and the rotors were worse than the ones in the video. I should have taken a picture.
Preproto That is absolutely nothing. Come to London Ontario and work on a farm truck. I’ve seen them come in riding on the pads backing plate with 1/16 deep grooves. Rotors worn so bad they come in and are gone. As always all we get is :” there’s a noise in the brakes could you check it out?”
oh man, I can only imagine. LOL
Can you do a similar video, but for replacing the wheel bearings on all four corners of a mk4?
Much easier than mk4. No cutting or pulling of bearing race.
I bought new stub axles and bearings for my 2004 GTI. They appear to have such a tight tolerance that it will be necessary to cold soak the stub axles to a very low temperature and heat soak the bearings, just to get them to mate. Did you experience this issue? If so, do you have tips you can share to make the mating of these parts easier? Should a certain tool be used for mating the bearing to the stub axle? The bearing definitely will not slide on by hand while at room temperature. I'm unsure if the bearing will slide on if the axle is cold soaked and if the bearing is heat soaked. Your perspective is appreciated. Thanks.
@@RedondoBeach2 It’s been a couple of years since I did it, but from memory I tried it without the hot and cold approach at first and it was impossible. Even with the hot and cold it was difficult. I think I found a socket or maybe it was the old inner race to pound it on so I would not destroy the bearing. I do remember pounding the crap out of it, worrying I might destroy the bearing. Just make sure you hit the inner race and not the bearing. I might of used a different approach on the other side (replaced both) using the old stub axle nut, the old inner races, bearing press adapters and a impact to get it on. Similar to using a bolt and bearing press adapters used in pressing front bearings on this vehicle. I pounded it on enough to then use the axle nut and impact to get it the rest of the way. If you do end up using the old inner races make sure you take some metal off the inside of the race with a die grinder, dremel, or file so it does not get stuck on the stub axle. I have two cheap Amazon bearing press kits and those adapters have come in handy. The bearings have been on the vehicle 2+ years so I guess I did not damage the bearings. Good luck.
Forgot to mention to not over do it with the impact and to follow the torque sequence in the service manual.
What size extension/ breaker bar did you use for the rear caliper and will I have the same amount of space on a mk6?
yeah it's about the same room. I have a 24"(or so) snap on ratchet I use for these. Room is limited on jack stands.
Thank you for taking the time to respond. Just got rotors and pads yesterday, so this video came at the perfect time.
I have the first situation. A low noise/vibration when I turn left. I suspect the front right bearing, but I will fix it when the sound will become louder and I will know for sure its the bearing.