Ill throw in a tip about grip installs. Obviously bolt on is quick and easy but if you use "glue on" heres how I do it. Put electrical tape on the bars, pour a little gasoline in the grip and shake it up to coat all inside surfaces, then slide over the electrical tape and let it dry. Grips will not twist at all and when its time to replace, cut the grip off and replaced the electrical tape.
i checked it several times if my video is running on a higher speed then usually... but it seems like this time kyle is in a hurry to get riding again...
Extra tip for number 4, if you have a mikuni carb you can buy m3 washers and just put a washer under the clip on the needle, thusly allowing you to move half needle positions since often a full position can be too much of a change. No clue if it will work for other carbs.
Hey Kyle, So I need a new pair of boots my old ones were some cheap O’Neal boots and they are completely trashed. I have about $400 to spend on a new pair but can’t decide between Alpinestars tech 7’s or Fox racing Instinct’s, what do you prefer?
Out of the two you suggest, I'd go alpine stars there. Here is my link for it with RMATV/MC - www.rockymountainatvmc.com/riding-gear/alpinestars-tech-7-boots-p?ref=1017
I do love my SG12s and SG10s, but they are out of his price range and the Alpine Stars are great as well. I actually like the Fox Instinct boots the LEAST of all that I've ever had.
Hey, thanks to your videos and everything im finally pulling the trigger on trading my yz450 for a 2020 ktm 300 xcw, thank you for all the info. Also quick question. Is there anything i need to do from factory to prolong the bikes life? Thank you!
Great to hear! Most of these bikes are bullet proof for the most part. Just keep fresh filters in them, clean oil in them, watch bearings, keep things clean and lubed between rides. Preventative maintenance is key. Look at the maintenance schedule in the manual for ideas on that things to watch for. They have a ton of things in there I don't do as often as they suggest, but it's a good start to get the ideas flowing for you. You can download a PDF if you don't have the paper copy (they stopped shipping them with paper manuals about a year ago anyway).
Hahah the clean helmet thing cracked me up! Idek how many rain rides I’ve done, forgot to take my helmet out of the bag for a week, and had to ride next time with a wet, moldy, STINKY, helmet
I like to run tires totally down to nothing, it’s great practice for traction control and trusting your chassis. If you can trust your bike with bad tires, imagine what you could do with freshies. I haven’t had great luck with tubliss in the front, it’s most likely from me installing it wrong, but whatever.
This is a list of solid tips, the only thing I would like to point out is that full wraps (bark busters) basically eliminate broken levers (& smashed hands).
The problem with them is they are not safe at high speed and if your hand gets stuck in the gap between the bars and it. If you move the levers in there is a low chance to break. I can't even remember the last time I broke a lever.
@@KICKERfilm I started running full wraps about 15 years ago? Thats 15 years of alot of riding and racing and no more smashed hands/broken levers, so Ill assume either your 1. Relatively inexperienced and do not know you are talking about, or 2. You are a desert rider?
@@SlowPokeSingleTrack So if you are riding tight tracks through trees, then I guess possibly not going high speed. You never see professional riders using bark busters though - probably because they don't it trees, but also due to danger.
@@GoViking933 I don't ride with them and never ran into a tree lately, and haven't broken a lever in ages (and use stock levers). If someone is ALWAYS dumping the bike over, then sure, armor the bike up. But once you learn to ride better and not fall, you just don't need them.
Nice video. Although I must admit I haven't broken a lever in 4 years (four hundred hours). So I don't bother keeping spares anymore, touch wood. I do run bark busters and my clutch is a clake one, so it's close to "unbreakable".
Rear tire: instead of buying a new one ($), just cut the central knobs' edges sharp with a hot iron tool (look it up). Back to like-new, and you can more than double a tire's life. You recoup the cost of the iron in only one shot.
I think WD40 is hard on o-rings. I just use Motorex Chain Clean on my o-ring chain. You are correct about the chain not needing lube. I completely agree about changing tires earlier than later. I look at tires as a performance upgrade more than as a wear item. Know your terrain and pick your rubber accordingly
Another tip about air filters. I’ve been using PC racing filter skins for a while now and they are awesome. I can go much longer between filter cleanings and on riding trips, it means I don’t have to pack a bulky filter. I keep a couple filter skins in a baggie oiled up and just change them out each day.
Yeah, I got turned onto filter skins by Taco Mike and they are awesome. I ride in the northeast (so, like zero dust most of the year) and with a couple skin swaps, a single filter can basically last me all season and still not be all that dirty.
Great tip, wrong supplier. A quick search shows dirt bike filter skins are $15 for 3 of 'em. I bought a bag of "swimming pool filter strainer socks" on Amazon. They seem to work the business. Super fine mesh. $9 for a 30 pack! So, $5 each vs $0.30 each. I love finding non-dirt bike market stuff that applies. Shows what the typical markup really is.
1:15 What items do we know for sure will get loose? I've checked my bikes many many times over the years and never found a loose fastener. Is this odd? I love the no drip oil change trick except my Yamaha's drain plug faces rearward. Not to messy anyway. Shoe Goo is awesome grip glue! I always have some in the freezer for various projects and repairs. After washing a bike, I always fire it up to help it dry off and I also prop up the rear wheel and run it through the gears which slings excess water off the chain and rear wheel. The chain is completely dry after another hour, then I apply a light coat of regular motor oil before surface rust has a chance to start up. Tires... if I were racing and/or had more cash lying around, I would certainly change tires more often. Unfortunately, everything is more expensive now and I only ride for fun & exercise, so I tend to run tires longer than I should. Thanks for another great video! :D
Fender bolts, shroud bolts, kickstand spring bolts, exhaust bolts, all the plastic bolts... things like that. I see lots of bolts out of bikes all the time. So I'm checking them often.
I do a lot of these things for sure. For the helmet liners. I pop them all out. Take my goggles and pop lens out. The toss them all the in the washer in cold water on delicate. Works like a champ. A little easier than the sink and dawn, but even that is not hard. Great to eliminate the funk and itchiness with a dirty helmet. Great after a dusty ride or race. Makes for a fresh smell when you put it on. Make sure to use only soap and I don't use a ton of soap either. Then let them hang dry. Works great and I've not had problems with them getting torn up. Even the foam on the goggles. Also no drier sheets in the boots. The residue they leave can clog up the moisture wicking properties of some the materials i wiped on the inside or heated up (likely not to happen though, but not out of the question). I leave the boot compartment open on the gear bag in the back of the truck on the drive home and let the air get in there (several hours at 85 does the trick). Also, boot driers work well. Just let them dry out. I don't get any stink. If I hose wash them I use a fly racing boot stand with the boots upside down and be sure to dry them well. Been riding a while and have ridden in very dusty areas. Multiple filters and batching was something I picked up while racing and riding most every weekend. Always a fresh filter in the garage. I have a TPI and it still has little time on it. I've not seen the need for the idle yet, but its a good idea. Still adding protection for it here and there. Its coming along. I tend to keep my bikes around way longer than Mr. Brotherson. If I could swap them every year I like would! My bank account doesn't roll like that though. His is a business though. I totally get it. I do a lot of these things.
Yo man do you train people in Utah I just moved out here just got back into riding would love to get together n learn as much as I can for you I watched a lot of ur UA-cam vids
Get a spare set of wheels second hand, make sure you got good bearings and tyres. Nothing worse than needing to change a tyre on a 3 day trip and it ruins the trip, take the wheels with you
I use white lithium grease on my o-ring chain. It helps lube the movement of the chain on the sliders etc... but washes really clean when the time comes. Does not allow dirt to pack in
I've got that stuff but have found my way works quite well and is super simple. Glad that works well for you. Certainly more than one way to skin a cat with this stuff!
I'm waiting for the sweepstakes admins to provide the finalists. They have to cross all the Ts and Dot all the I's... you know. Hopefully they get those names to me today and then I could do the live drawing really soon. It's possible it will get pushed into next week though...
Yup absolutely a new hood tire will massively improve your riding if you ride enduro slot and have traction issues try the shinko 525 cheetah makes a hell of a difference super soft so it means it wears faster but holy you have endless traction pretty much anywhere I don’t have a tubliss on my bike but I run 8 psi with a heavy duty tube and haven’t had any issues some people run to rims locks but running one works fine for me but if you’ve got the menu but the tubliss because you can run them on 0 psi
I'm with you on the Shinko 525, that's my GO TO! Love that tire. I used to run Moose bibs but transitioned to Tubliss - they are lighter and seem to work great. I ride in heavy rock and roots Colorado, Arizona and California areas. The Tubliss so far is great, but you do need to maintain them - you check the high pressure side before each ride to make sure they are at least 110 lbs of pressure. If you do that they are bullet proof.
Ok all great, but who burns through foot pegs, that needs to keep them as spares? Ok maybe put on aftermarket and keep the OEM ones. Spare parts. Brakes, master links, bearings,. Heck you can do a video on what to keep as spares. Maybe break it into novice riders and every weekend/ racers.
Not to start shit but I probably wouldn't lube my chains , or really do much maintenance eather if I was only running a bike for less than a couple hundred hours, I get . Its just not good to promote not not lubing a chain .
Learn about your chains guys the o rings only attempt to seal the inner pin area of the chain , they do nothing to lube the roles and the roler to sprocket contact Even the sealed area is not a great seal and un or under lubed chains will develop tight links over time. The other problem with un lubed o ring chains is that the o rings them selves will dry out and crack and break over time with no lube. These are things I see hear in the shop on a daily basis and this no lube idea is actually fine as It helps me to sell more chains and sprockets so carry on.
@Adam Batchelder. Thanks for your comment, I respect it and I respect you. My response: We DO NOT need to lube an o-ring or X ring chain. Period. Full stop. I've proven it time and time again. Hundreds/thousands of hours on my bikes and chains over the decade plus I've been doing this. My riding buddies have proven it time and time again as long as it's an o-ring chain. And we/most don't run them for more than approx 100 hours anyway regardless of lube vs no lube :). By that time, the chain and sprockets are pretty tired and worn, and they are ready to be replaced. . YES a standard (non-oring chain) does need lube. 100%, but not the o-ring type, and that is primarily what I use. I kinda hate it when I buy a bike that has a crappy "standard" chain, and usually replace them ASAP, so that I don't have to fiddle with lubing them. Thanks for your input though.
2:56 Looks like a great place for the clutch lever, I also almost never use more than one finger as well, so out of the way is a good thing. I also agree with allowing the lever perch to be able to move under pressure, and sometimes, I just don't want it where I usually have it, this way I can bump on it and move it where I want.
Foot pegs... Whaaaa? I've never gone through a set of foot pegs. I swap out factory pegs for pivot pegs and they have never let me down.. seems odd to have these in-stock
Did not help on mine. I applied thread locker to it 2 times but it still fell apart. Dealer did it once also. So the other day I fixed the mother f'r. I drilled the 5 mm hole 100% through the stand. Tapped the through hole all the way through (5 mm diameter tap). Used a 35 mm long stainless bolt. Drill a tiny hole through the bolt near the end of the threaded end. Put loctite on the bolt. Thread the bolt fully into the side stand with the spring arm in place. Then I loctited a locking nut and put it on the bolt on the back side of the stand. May have installed a tiny washer 1st also but I forget. Then I put a piece of lockwire through that small hole near the end of the bolt and locked twisted the wire on the bolt. Ensuring no sharp ends stick out and all is clear of the swingarm and all parts. If it falls off now then nature can have the dang thing. I see the 2023 XC has a new kickstand.
More pressure washing = more problems. I never wash my bike unless really necessary for major work on the bike. For o-ring chain I use used gear oil. Works great, zero cost.
@@craca96 what is horrible? My friends pressure wash their bikes more often and they constantly have problems related to corrosion and bearing problems (especially ventilator bearing is very sensitive). But it is true that some people like their bikes clean and shiny all the time, so it looks nice in front of the bar. Nothing wrong with that. Gear oil for chain also works great, Kyle also recommended this in another video. Just sharing my experience and what works great for me.
Don't pressure wash. Just use a garden hose, soapy water and a brush. Stay away still from bearings and seals. Cleaning a bike is part of maintenance as you can spot things that are not right like he said.
I always pressure wash, then use a leaf blower to dry, then use silicone spray on all bits metal. Bike still looks like it’s just out of the shop. Silicone spray is cheap and a great way to preserve your bike
On boots: they make driers for 30-50 bucks where you just put them on and let them dry for the day. After a ride, I leave them drying overnight and I haven’t had any issues with smell.
As I'm strolling through the comments looking for additional good info I see post bout winning a mountain bike. Are you aware of this Kyle? Just wasn't sure if some one hacked you or is pretending to be you. That aside, great info. Thanks.
Excellent, Kyle! Only a couple things I haven't done. Bar ends, I use the hard handguards which protect the bar ends. And I don't go over the whole bike checking torque on fasteners, instead I'll torque everything when I first get it, recheck after a few rides, anything that required tightening (rare) I'll recheck for awhile until no longer needing it (usually not again) then I won't until maybe a yearly go-over. I do perform a quick visual before and after each ride though. And make sure the TuBliss is fully pressured before going out. Carb tuning, I've been tuning carbs since about ten years old and know the feeling of too lean and too rich and the circuits responsible, so I'm averaging about 34.5 mpg on my 300 while running flawlessly.
Air filters - if you put a dirty air filter in a 5 gal bucket and let it soak with Dawn Dish Soap (and it MUST be Dawn) you can soak it the entire time you have the clean air filter on the bike...once the clean filter needs to be changed, simply pull the dirty filter out of the bucket, let it air dry and oil it. Yes you have to ring it properly a few times, but it's so easy and it doesn't matter how dirty it is, the Dawn soap just really cleans the dirt and oil off of it. So much easier than using chemicals and super cheap.
I dont use a zip tie on the forks, not the most kind on the seals . I remove the axle and the fork guard and slide an expansion chamber O'ring onto the fork slider. Works a treat
Awesome video and some great tips and tricks for everyone. Tires are very underrated and most dont want to replace them as often as theyd like because changing a tire with hand tools, when you havent done it a lot, and especially if your by yourself it can be a major hassle for some, so they just run the tires down completely sometimes ive seen lol.. For the clutch levers, I go with a replacement 2-3 finger clutch lever on my cable clutch bikes like my Yamaha. When i got my first ktm, the first thing i did was slide the clutch lever assembly inwards like the picture. It's basically a free "shorty lever" clutch mod lol. 1-2 fingers is all you need and i have my lever adjusted to be slightly closer to the bars than stock for less reach for a quick clutch grab.. I've done it on every bike since then lol. I've only had a few issues with broken levers in the past on more stock bikes mostly, partly because you need real barkbuster style hand guards here. So all my bikes have them and that protects the levers and bar/grip ends as well. Those stock ktm handguards would be useless here. You need full wrap around hand gaurds that have metal inside them and take a tree hit and not just flex inwards..
watching your videos as I look forward to starting dirt riding here in Colorado for the first time in a long time. retired mechanic so I am really interested in maintenance and repair and also carburetor adjustments. I will be riding between 6400 and 8400 hundred feet in elevation here in Colorado.
use a torque wrench on all pinch bolts minimum! forks may have different specs from the lower to uppers. i see a lot of this even at dealerships. there is no excuse but laziness to look up the torque table that is now free online, used to have to pay for service manual. miniimum torque, wheels, handlebars, forks and steering head.
You forgot to mention about the kickstand spring that is notorious for falling off on KTM/Husky/GasGas 2 strokes. The bolt backs out due to everytime the stand is pushed down to be used it puts pressure on the small 5 screw that holds the lower end of the spring's arm to the kick stand. The pressure rotates and unthreads the screw. Then I got to go looking in the grass and ground for the parts multiple times. Dealer even tried to fix it. Thread locker did not help. So the other day I fixed the mother f'r. I drilled the 5 mm hole 100% through the stand. Tapped the through hole all the way through (5 mm diameter tap). Used a 35 mm long stainless bolt. Drill a tiny hole through the bolt near the end of the threaded end. Put loctite on the bolt. Thread the bolt fully into the side stand with the spring arm in place. Then I loctited a locking nut and put it on the bolt on the back side of the stand. May have installed a tiny washer 1st also but I forget. Then I put a piece of lockwire through that small hole near the end of the bolt and locked twisted the wire on the bolt. Ensuring no sharp ends stick out and all is clear of the swingarm and all parts. If it falls off now then nature can have the dang thing. I see the 2023 XC has a new kickstand. For the 1st in time years I now have Cycra Pro wrap around hand gaurds. No broken levers, damaged grips,.. when I drop it. I got the Tokyo tansmission oil drain tool last year. Works great. Riding buddies have to have at least 1 practical use to be a good buddy. I get them to hold and read the tape measure when I check sag. 🤣 I am too cheap to buy a sag tool. I recently learned from pro offroad riders and shops to only put something light on the drive chain to stop it from rusting. No more chain lubes that cause all dirt and crap to stick to the chain acting as grinding compound. The Dunlop AT81's that came on the KTM TPI bikes are crap. Especially the front one. I am loving the new Michelin StarCross 6 med soft. I know so many riders that like the StarCross 5's. Adjusting the airbypass screw helped my 2022 300 a lot. Turning it in actual;y richens it via closing the air it gets which is also safe. The idle screw change I did in a few minutes without totally removing the throttle body from the bike. I left the throttle cables attached. Wore left hand leather glove to hold it.
Yeah, I mean there are a ton of things I didn't cover here... and yes, those kickstand screws are HORRIBBLE. That are one of the things I'm constantly checking.
@@DirtBikeChannel I've just heard of it as well. I just keep it in mind. I can see how it could happen if it hits a guide just right... I've trained myself just to spin it forward... Just in case. Love ya bro keep shreddin'
WD40 has petroleum distillates in it and it will vulcanize rubber, that's why you can put grips on with it and it melts them to the bars, it does the same thing to rubber o-rings, even the chain manufacturers say to not use it on o-ring chains.
Rubber o-rings are already vulcanized just like tires. A lot of what we call rubber o-rings are made from silicone. The WD-40 is just to keep the chain from rusting. I have an o-ring chain on a Cr500 that is over 10 years old, and over 1000 hrs. It's never been lubed only lighty sprayed with WD-40 after it's been washed.
I've used it on chains after every wash my entire life. I've never once had an issue or premature failure, and we're pretty hard on bikes. WD for the win!
Motorex offroad chain lube is the best. It's a dry lube so it doesn't fling off everywhere or attract dirt. You can then easily clean the chain by spraying it off with the hose. Your chain still has metal-to-metal contact with the sprokes and needs to be lubed. WD-40 is gone after 5min of riding.
I was interested until I figured out real quick that rich boys will always be rich boys and never understand just getting by about what you got you know stock up on tires and engines and extra motorcycles and gold foot pegs and you know snow studded tires with Pegasus wings... if one can afford such a thing and what do you saying is good but for the normal human you know the one that actually has to work for a living not ride a bike because daddy let him sorry dude but your video may be helpful but it's condescending and b******* but one can only be jealous but with money comes problems you got your own set of problems we know but it'll never be one that you had to make up for yourself and fix it on your own but growing up with money so just another way to grow up
Ill throw in a tip about grip installs. Obviously bolt on is quick and easy but if you use "glue on" heres how I do it. Put electrical tape on the bars, pour a little gasoline in the grip and shake it up to coat all inside surfaces, then slide over the electrical tape and let it dry. Grips will not twist at all and when its time to replace, cut the grip off and replaced the electrical tape.
Why go through all of that when you can just buy lock on grips?
I keep clean old Sox filled with baking soap in my boots to absorb the smell works a treat 👍
i checked it several times if my video is running on a higher speed then usually... but it seems like this time kyle is in a hurry to get riding again...
Could you maybe do a test to the rieju mr 300 pro?
thanks for the tips
i ride a yz450fx 2017
its havey but fun
Yeah, I bet that thing is incredible in the desert or wide open terrain!
Extra tip for number 4, if you have a mikuni carb you can buy m3 washers and just put a washer under the clip on the needle, thusly allowing you to move half needle positions since often a full position can be too much of a change. No clue if it will work for other carbs.
Lots of great tips..
Me who can still not afford a bike after 29 years of life. Ah yes this is exactly what I need tips on what to stock for my non existing bike.
Thanks for the good advice much appreciated. Tom
Glad it was helpful!
when is your nexet give away?
December. I may start it on Cyber Monday though....
Hey Kyle, So I need a new pair of boots my old ones were some cheap O’Neal boots and they are completely trashed. I have about $400 to spend on a new pair but can’t decide between Alpinestars tech 7’s or Fox racing Instinct’s, what do you prefer?
I have all of them. Gaerne SG12’s all the way.
Out of the two you suggest, I'd go alpine stars there. Here is my link for it with RMATV/MC - www.rockymountainatvmc.com/riding-gear/alpinestars-tech-7-boots-p?ref=1017
I do love my SG12s and SG10s, but they are out of his price range and the Alpine Stars are great as well. I actually like the Fox Instinct boots the LEAST of all that I've ever had.
Thanks!!
@@DirtBikeChannel EBay has a pair for $479 sg12’s
Hey, thanks to your videos and everything im finally pulling the trigger on trading my yz450 for a 2020 ktm 300 xcw, thank you for all the info. Also quick question. Is there anything i need to do from factory to prolong the bikes life? Thank you!
Great to hear! Most of these bikes are bullet proof for the most part. Just keep fresh filters in them, clean oil in them, watch bearings, keep things clean and lubed between rides. Preventative maintenance is key. Look at the maintenance schedule in the manual for ideas on that things to watch for. They have a ton of things in there I don't do as often as they suggest, but it's a good start to get the ideas flowing for you. You can download a PDF if you don't have the paper copy (they stopped shipping them with paper manuals about a year ago anyway).
@@DirtBikeChannel alright thank you! I just saw a ton of people saying to get TSP heads and ECU remaps so i just wanted to make sure.
@@psyxx_
Most everybody who fell for those will feel the need to promote them for their own validation in most cases.
Number 18 don’t wear your hat like that when your over 25 lol
Tires - # 1
Ok - text sent
this guy is desperate for content......its getting worse by the month
Why not use aluminum hand guards/bark busters, you will never break a Lever again and protect your hands
Hahah the clean helmet thing cracked me up! Idek how many rain rides I’ve done, forgot to take my helmet out of the bag for a week, and had to ride next time with a wet, moldy, STINKY, helmet
I like to run tires totally down to nothing, it’s great practice for traction control and trusting your chassis. If you can trust your bike with bad tires, imagine what you could do with freshies. I haven’t had great luck with tubliss in the front, it’s most likely from me installing it wrong, but whatever.
Bro tubliss in the front is a PITA. It’s not just you. It’s everyone I know that has run it in front.
This is a list of solid tips, the only thing I would like to point out is that full wraps (bark busters) basically eliminate broken levers (& smashed hands).
The problem with them is they are not safe at high speed and if your hand gets stuck in the gap between the bars and it. If you move the levers in there is a low chance to break. I can't even remember the last time I broke a lever.
@KICKERfilm I'd rather not crush my hands on a tree. You're less likely to break your wrist from handguards than you are to hit your hands on trees
@@KICKERfilm I started running full wraps about 15 years ago? Thats 15 years of alot of riding and racing and no more smashed hands/broken levers, so Ill assume either your 1. Relatively inexperienced and do not know you are talking about, or
2. You are a desert rider?
@@SlowPokeSingleTrack So if you are riding tight tracks through trees, then I guess possibly not going high speed. You never see professional riders using bark busters though - probably because they don't it trees, but also due to danger.
@@GoViking933 I don't ride with them and never ran into a tree lately, and haven't broken a lever in ages (and use stock levers). If someone is ALWAYS dumping the bike over, then sure, armor the bike up. But once you learn to ride better and not fall, you just don't need them.
Nice video. Although I must admit I haven't broken a lever in 4 years (four hundred hours). So I don't bother keeping spares anymore, touch wood.
I do run bark busters and my clutch is a clake one, so it's close to "unbreakable".
Bark busters ergo .. bar ends lever and hand protection in one.
Rear tire: instead of buying a new one ($), just cut the central knobs' edges sharp with a hot iron tool (look it up). Back to like-new, and you can more than double a tire's life. You recoup the cost of the iron in only one shot.
I think WD40 is hard on o-rings. I just use Motorex Chain Clean on my o-ring chain. You are correct about the chain not needing lube.
I completely agree about changing tires earlier than later. I look at tires as a performance upgrade more than as a wear item. Know your terrain and pick your rubber accordingly
Stinky boots: remove the insoles to let them dry out. Even better, rinse out the insides with fresh water so that west doesn’t just build up.
A peet (or similar) boot dryer does wonders too. I wash my boots when I wash my bike and stick them on the dryer. No stinky boots here!
Another tip about air filters. I’ve been using PC racing filter skins for a while now and they are awesome. I can go much longer between filter cleanings and on riding trips, it means I don’t have to pack a bulky filter. I keep a couple filter skins in a baggie oiled up and just change them out each day.
Yeah, I got turned onto filter skins by Taco Mike and they are awesome. I ride in the northeast (so, like zero dust most of the year) and with a couple skin swaps, a single filter can basically last me all season and still not be all that dirty.
Great tip, wrong supplier. A quick search shows dirt bike filter skins are $15 for 3 of 'em. I bought a bag of "swimming pool filter strainer socks" on Amazon. They seem to work the business. Super fine mesh. $9 for a 30 pack! So, $5 each vs $0.30 each. I love finding non-dirt bike market stuff that applies. Shows what the typical markup really is.
1:15 What items do we know for sure will get loose? I've checked my bikes many many times over the years and never found a loose fastener. Is this odd?
I love the no drip oil change trick except my Yamaha's drain plug faces rearward. Not to messy anyway.
Shoe Goo is awesome grip glue! I always have some in the freezer for various projects and repairs.
After washing a bike, I always fire it up to help it dry off and I also prop up the rear wheel and run it through the gears which slings excess water off the chain and rear wheel. The chain is completely dry after another hour, then I apply a light coat of regular motor oil before surface rust has a chance to start up.
Tires... if I were racing and/or had more cash lying around, I would certainly change tires more often. Unfortunately, everything is more expensive now and I only ride for fun & exercise, so I tend to run tires longer than I should.
Thanks for another great video! :D
Fender bolts, shroud bolts, kickstand spring bolts, exhaust bolts, all the plastic bolts... things like that. I see lots of bolts out of bikes all the time. So I'm checking them often.
I do a lot of these things for sure. For the helmet liners. I pop them all out. Take my goggles and pop lens out. The toss them all the in the washer in cold water on delicate. Works like a champ. A little easier than the sink and dawn, but even that is not hard. Great to eliminate the funk and itchiness with a dirty helmet. Great after a dusty ride or race. Makes for a fresh smell when you put it on. Make sure to use only soap and I don't use a ton of soap either. Then let them hang dry. Works great and I've not had problems with them getting torn up. Even the foam on the goggles. Also no drier sheets in the boots. The residue they leave can clog up the moisture wicking properties of some the materials i wiped on the inside or heated up (likely not to happen though, but not out of the question). I leave the boot compartment open on the gear bag in the back of the truck on the drive home and let the air get in there (several hours at 85 does the trick). Also, boot driers work well. Just let them dry out. I don't get any stink. If I hose wash them I use a fly racing boot stand with the boots upside down and be sure to dry them well. Been riding a while and have ridden in very dusty areas. Multiple filters and batching was something I picked up while racing and riding most every weekend. Always a fresh filter in the garage. I have a TPI and it still has little time on it. I've not seen the need for the idle yet, but its a good idea. Still adding protection for it here and there. Its coming along. I tend to keep my bikes around way longer than Mr. Brotherson. If I could swap them every year I like would! My bank account doesn't roll like that though. His is a business though. I totally get it. I do a lot of these things.
Yo man do you train people in Utah I just moved out here just got back into riding would love to get together n learn as much as I can for you I watched a lot of ur UA-cam vids
Get a spare set of wheels second hand, make sure you got good bearings and tyres. Nothing worse than needing to change a tyre on a 3 day trip and it ruins the trip, take the wheels with you
i only use Honda chain cleaner and honda chain lube on my hondas. also i feel like i should mention HONDA
I use white lithium grease on my o-ring chain. It helps lube the movement of the chain on the sliders etc... but washes really clean when the time comes. Does not allow dirt to pack in
I've got that stuff but have found my way works quite well and is super simple. Glad that works well for you. Certainly more than one way to skin a cat with this stuff!
All chainlube and grease attract dirt, grime and crap onto the chain. Then this grime acts as grinding compound on the chain and sprockets.
I wonder what Jeff Slaven thinks about not lubing a chain😅
When is this sweepstakes happening we are itching yo see the 🏆 winners
I'm waiting for the sweepstakes admins to provide the finalists. They have to cross all the Ts and Dot all the I's... you know. Hopefully they get those names to me today and then I could do the live drawing really soon. It's possible it will get pushed into next week though...
Another tip: RIDEHARD
Anyone got any sidi srs maintenance tips? My bottom bits are peeling off the sole
Yup absolutely a new hood tire will massively improve your riding if you ride enduro slot and have traction issues try the shinko 525 cheetah makes a hell of a difference super soft so it means it wears faster but holy you have endless traction pretty much anywhere I don’t have a tubliss on my bike but I run 8 psi with a heavy duty tube and haven’t had any issues some people run to rims locks but running one works fine for me but if you’ve got the menu but the tubliss because you can run them on 0 psi
I'm with you on the Shinko 525, that's my GO TO! Love that tire. I used to run Moose bibs but transitioned to Tubliss - they are lighter and seem to work great. I ride in heavy rock and roots Colorado, Arizona and California areas. The Tubliss so far is great, but you do need to maintain them - you check the high pressure side before each ride to make sure they are at least 110 lbs of pressure. If you do that they are bullet proof.
Ok all great, but who burns through foot pegs, that needs to keep them as spares? Ok maybe put on aftermarket and keep the OEM ones.
Spare parts. Brakes, master links, bearings,. Heck you can do a video on what to keep as spares. Maybe break it into novice riders and every weekend/ racers.
Why tubeless if you pop the tire you need a new tire lmao
Just spray lysol in your boots. It's cheap and works better than anything else
Looking super fit and big recently 💪
i also have mountain bike.but not coming start what the problem
Not to start shit but I probably wouldn't lube my chains , or really do much maintenance eather if I was only running a bike for less than a couple hundred hours, I get . Its just not good to promote not not lubing a chain .
O-ring and X-ring vs. regular chain. This is the difference. Regular chains need lube. The O-ring or X-ring chain seals out the dirt and the lube.
It’s an o ring you don’t need to do really anything to it
Learn about your chains guys the o rings only attempt to seal the inner pin area of the chain , they do nothing to lube the roles and the roler to sprocket contact
Even the sealed area is not a great seal and un or under lubed chains will develop tight links over time. The other problem with un lubed o ring chains is that the o rings them selves will dry out and crack and break over time with no lube. These are things I see hear in the shop on a daily basis and this no lube idea is actually fine as It helps me to sell more chains and sprockets so carry on.
@Adam Batchelder. Thanks for your comment, I respect it and I respect you. My response: We DO NOT need to lube an o-ring or X ring chain. Period. Full stop. I've proven it time and time again. Hundreds/thousands of hours on my bikes and chains over the decade plus I've been doing this. My riding buddies have proven it time and time again as long as it's an o-ring chain. And we/most don't run them for more than approx 100 hours anyway regardless of lube vs no lube :). By that time, the chain and sprockets are pretty tired and worn, and they are ready to be replaced. . YES a standard (non-oring chain) does need lube. 100%, but not the o-ring type, and that is primarily what I use. I kinda hate it when I buy a bike that has a crappy "standard" chain, and usually replace them ASAP, so that I don't have to fiddle with lubing them. Thanks for your input though.
But first you must spend thousands of dollars!
2:56 Looks like a great place for the clutch lever,
I also almost never use more than one finger as
well, so out of the way is a good thing. I also agree
with allowing the lever perch to be able to move under
pressure, and sometimes, I just don't want it where
I usually have it, this way I can bump on it and move
it where I want.
Will I know the arguments are coming but cycra pro bends would solve 2 issues you brought up .I have not replaced a lever in years.
You should consider doing a timber sled conversion kit for one of your dirt bikes this winter.
Foot pegs... Whaaaa? I've never gone through a set of foot pegs. I swap out factory pegs for pivot pegs and they have never let me down.. seems odd to have these in-stock
Start clean, end clean but ride dirty ;)
KTM / Husky / GasGas - tighten the bolt that hold the spring on the kick stand.
Did not help on mine. I applied thread locker to it 2 times but it still fell apart. Dealer did it once also.
So the other day I fixed the mother f'r.
I drilled the 5 mm hole 100% through the stand.
Tapped the through hole all the way through (5 mm diameter tap).
Used a 35 mm long stainless bolt.
Drill a tiny hole through the bolt near the end of the threaded end.
Put loctite on the bolt. Thread the bolt fully into the side stand with the spring arm in place.
Then I loctited a locking nut and put it on the bolt on the back side of the stand. May have installed a tiny washer 1st also but I forget.
Then I put a piece of lockwire through that small hole near the end of the bolt and locked twisted the wire on the bolt. Ensuring no sharp ends stick out and all is clear of the swingarm and all parts.
If it falls off now then nature can have the dang thing.
I see the 2023 XC has a new kickstand.
I lost mine in The bushes. I just tapped a new hole for a screw i got at home depot and used red loctite. Been solid now for 60hours.
YES. Agreed
@@human1513 You need to do a UA-cam vid on this repair PLEASE!
Damm i love high maintenance machine with all these pollution stuff 😍😍
haha!
More pressure washing = more problems. I never wash my bike unless really necessary for major work on the bike.
For o-ring chain I use used gear oil.
Works great, zero cost.
That’s horrible
@@craca96 what is horrible?
My friends pressure wash their bikes more often and they constantly have problems related to corrosion and bearing problems (especially ventilator bearing is very sensitive). But it is true that some people like their bikes clean and shiny all the time, so it looks nice in front of the bar. Nothing wrong with that. Gear oil for chain also works great, Kyle also recommended this in another video.
Just sharing my experience and what works great for me.
Don't pressure wash. Just use a garden hose, soapy water and a brush. Stay away still from bearings and seals. Cleaning a bike is part of maintenance as you can spot things that are not right like he said.
I always pressure wash, then use a leaf blower to dry, then use silicone spray on all bits metal. Bike still looks like it’s just out of the shop. Silicone spray is cheap and a great way to preserve your bike
On boots: they make driers for 30-50 bucks where you just put them on and let them dry for the day. After a ride, I leave them drying overnight and I haven’t had any issues with smell.
Thanks, Kyle! Greetings from Brazil 🇧🇷
WD40 is basically chain lube haha
2:14 I adore smoking head 🤣
As I'm strolling through the comments looking for additional good info I see post bout winning a mountain bike. Are you aware of this Kyle? Just wasn't sure if some one hacked you or is pretending to be you. That aside, great info. Thanks.
Excellent, Kyle!
Only a couple things I haven't done. Bar ends, I use the hard handguards which protect the bar ends. And I don't go over the whole bike checking torque on fasteners, instead I'll torque everything when I first get it, recheck after a few rides, anything that required tightening (rare) I'll recheck for awhile until no longer needing it (usually not again) then I won't until maybe a yearly go-over. I do perform a quick visual before and after each ride though. And make sure the TuBliss is fully pressured before going out.
Carb tuning, I've been tuning carbs since about ten years old and know the feeling of too lean and too rich and the circuits responsible, so I'm averaging about 34.5 mpg on my 300 while running flawlessly.
Nice!
I bought a spare set of cheek pads & helmet liner, that way i put the clean 1 in & then wash the other 1.
You’re being trolled by bots Kyle. Look at the comments from recent replies here Brotherson. Good hint on the drain plug hoses! Cheers!
Air filters - if you put a dirty air filter in a 5 gal bucket and let it soak with Dawn Dish Soap (and it MUST be Dawn) you can soak it the entire time you have the clean air filter on the bike...once the clean filter needs to be changed, simply pull the dirty filter out of the bucket, let it air dry and oil it. Yes you have to ring it properly a few times, but it's so easy and it doesn't matter how dirty it is, the Dawn soap just really cleans the dirt and oil off of it. So much easier than using chemicals and super cheap.
I dont use a zip tie on the forks, not the most kind on the seals . I remove the axle and the fork guard and slide an expansion chamber O'ring onto the fork slider. Works a treat
I mark my bolts with marker or nail polish to always know
how tight they are on visual inspection, if the line
has veered off, I'm alerted. 1:12
check out peet boot dryers
Good information. Thanks.
All good tips.
Awesome video and some great tips and tricks for everyone.
Tires are very underrated and most dont want to replace them as often as theyd like because changing a tire with hand tools, when you havent done it a lot, and especially if your by yourself it can be a major hassle for some, so they just run the tires down completely sometimes ive seen lol..
For the clutch levers, I go with a replacement 2-3 finger clutch lever on my cable clutch bikes like my Yamaha. When i got my first ktm, the first thing i did was slide the clutch lever assembly inwards like the picture. It's basically a free "shorty lever" clutch mod lol. 1-2 fingers is all you need and i have my lever adjusted to be slightly closer to the bars than stock for less reach for a quick clutch grab.. I've done it on every bike since then lol.
I've only had a few issues with broken levers in the past on more stock bikes mostly, partly because you need real barkbuster style hand guards here. So all my bikes have them and that protects the levers and bar/grip ends as well.
Those stock ktm handguards would be useless here. You need full wrap around hand gaurds that have metal inside them and take a tree hit and not just flex inwards..
I wash my helmet foams on cold wash with maxx spin speed keeps them really fresh
watching your videos as I look forward to starting dirt riding here in Colorado for the first time in a long time. retired mechanic so I am really interested in maintenance and repair and also carburetor adjustments. I will be riding between 6400 and 8400 hundred feet in elevation here in Colorado.
use a torque wrench on all pinch bolts minimum! forks may have different specs from the lower to uppers. i see a lot of this even at dealerships. there is no excuse but laziness to look up the torque table that is now free online, used to have to pay for service manual. miniimum torque, wheels, handlebars, forks and steering head.
hey, you should put on the zip tie in reverse so you can remove it at anytime without risking damaging the forks!
Great video
Boots into a sealed plastic tub with one of those large moisture absorbing containers 👌
Great tips! Thank you!! 😁
thanks for watching!
A N A L / O C D
Great tips, I believe I do every one of them(except for the TPI stuff), I just don't use the same products or methods.
Thank you!! RMFR.
Thanks for another great video. You should add a Tokyo Offroad link to the item you referenced for oil changes.
Tyres, thank you for waking me up to the most logical tip!
The zip tie can be used as the easiest way to measure sag, that's how we do it on mountainbikes
Great tips. Thank you. 😎👍🇺🇸
i don’t have that kind of money to do a lot of these things
The best tip of them all is putting a new tire on!!
Great Video Kyle!!!!!
Great info. Bike maintenance is KEY😎
You forgot to mention about the kickstand spring that is notorious for falling off on KTM/Husky/GasGas 2 strokes. The bolt backs out due to everytime the stand is pushed down to be used it puts pressure on the small 5 screw that holds the lower end of the spring's arm to the kick stand. The pressure rotates and unthreads the screw. Then I got to go looking in the grass and ground for the parts multiple times. Dealer even tried to fix it. Thread locker did not help.
So the other day I fixed the mother f'r.
I drilled the 5 mm hole 100% through the stand.
Tapped the through hole all the way through (5 mm diameter tap).
Used a 35 mm long stainless bolt.
Drill a tiny hole through the bolt near the end of the threaded end.
Put loctite on the bolt. Thread the bolt fully into the side stand with the spring arm in place.
Then I loctited a locking nut and put it on the bolt on the back side of the stand. May have installed a tiny washer 1st also but I forget.
Then I put a piece of lockwire through that small hole near the end of the bolt and locked twisted the wire on the bolt. Ensuring no sharp ends stick out and all is clear of the swingarm and all parts.
If it falls off now then nature can have the dang thing.
I see the 2023 XC has a new kickstand.
For the 1st in time years I now have Cycra Pro wrap around hand gaurds. No broken levers, damaged grips,.. when I drop it.
I got the Tokyo tansmission oil drain tool last year. Works great.
Riding buddies have to have at least 1 practical use to be a good buddy. I get them to hold and read the tape measure when I check sag. 🤣
I am too cheap to buy a sag tool.
I recently learned from pro offroad riders and shops to only put something light on the drive chain to stop it from rusting. No more chain lubes that cause all dirt and crap to stick to the chain acting as grinding compound.
The Dunlop AT81's that came on the KTM TPI bikes are crap. Especially the front one.
I am loving the new Michelin StarCross 6 med soft.
I know so many riders that like the StarCross 5's.
Adjusting the airbypass screw helped my 2022 300 a lot. Turning it in actual;y richens it via closing the air it gets which is also safe.
The idle screw change I did in a few minutes without totally removing the throttle body from the bike. I left the throttle cables attached. Wore left hand leather glove to hold it.
Yeah, I mean there are a ton of things I didn't cover here... and yes, those kickstand screws are HORRIBBLE. That are one of the things I'm constantly checking.
2015 KTM 300 XC. Never had a problem with the kickstand screw coming loose. I hear about it all the time. I guess I'm just lucky
@@daleholmes4355 Me too, never had an issue so far; got hundreds of hours on my TPI bikes with kickstands.
Cone valve and supertrax, you must be a very fast rider!
I've been testing it on loan. I might buy a set though. It's got nothing to do with speed :)
Great video Kyle super useful tips. Keep ‘em coming. Love from 🇿🇦
Thanks! Will do!
17 / 17 May be i follow you for too long 😉🥰🥰
Maybe!
Awesome Kyle thanks....
For people with master link chains only spin rear tire forward.
Spinning rear tire backward could possibly knock link loose.
I've heard people talk about this, but I've yet to see it happen in person. Has it happened to you yet?
@@DirtBikeChannel I've just heard of it as well.
I just keep it in mind.
I can see how it could happen if it hits a guide just right...
I've trained myself just to spin it forward...
Just in case.
Love ya bro keep shreddin'
@@yurperfecthi
I consider subscribing. And I did.
Thanks Cameron!
The beard is on point. Keep it.
Thanks Nate!
WD40 has petroleum distillates in it and it will vulcanize rubber, that's why you can put grips on with it and it melts them to the bars, it does the same thing to rubber o-rings, even the chain manufacturers say to not use it on o-ring chains.
Woah didn't know that
Yeah my dad has yelled at us since we were young about using wd40 as a lubricant or on a chain
Rubber o-rings are already vulcanized just like tires. A lot of what we call rubber o-rings are made from silicone. The WD-40 is just to keep the chain from rusting. I have an o-ring chain on a Cr500 that is over 10 years old, and over 1000 hrs. It's never been lubed only lighty sprayed with WD-40 after it's been washed.
I've used it on chains after every wash my entire life. I've never once had an issue or premature failure, and we're pretty hard on bikes. WD for the win!
@@jasonstevens5943 that’s bull. 1000hrs on a chain and sprocket set is a load of turds there’s no way 200hrs to maybe 300 if you baby it
hope to get a yz250x
That's a bike near and dear to my heart!
you're the guy with way more money than talent 😆
You may be right... but aren't we all.
@@DirtBikeChannel have any to spare? I need money and talent.
love the videos
thanks!
Sweet base tan!
30 min per day in the sun!
Motorex offroad chain lube is the best. It's a dry lube so it doesn't fling off everywhere or attract dirt. You can then easily clean the chain by spraying it off with the hose. Your chain still has metal-to-metal contact with the sprokes and needs to be lubed. WD-40 is gone after 5min of riding.
And the motorex overpriced stuff is gone in 10 minutes, well done champ
Stating the obvious is a video now?
Sure is! Glad you know everything there is to know!
Very nice boot tip..they get real stinky up here in the PNW rainy season which is %75 of the time
Yeah, it's a helpful one for many!
Truee
I was interested until I figured out real quick that rich boys will always be rich boys and never understand just getting by about what you got you know stock up on tires and engines and extra motorcycles and gold foot pegs and you know snow studded tires with Pegasus wings... if one can afford such a thing and what do you saying is good but for the normal human you know the one that actually has to work for a living not ride a bike because daddy let him sorry dude but your video may be helpful but it's condescending and b******* but one can only be jealous but with money comes problems you got your own set of problems we know but it'll never be one that you had to make up for yourself and fix it on your own but growing up with money so just another way to grow up
Well said. ! You took the words right out of my mouth. Just maintain you bike and ride smart