Adjusting the Valve Lash on our Cummins 6.7 Diesel Engine
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- Although this is not a full how to it shows the process for adjusting your valves. Be sure to get the proper service manual pages for this procedure prior to attempting this. Here is a link to the service manual pages we used for this job. goo.gl/XNQUJV
** Something I forgot to mention in the video - Always adjust your engines valves COLD. This engine was at ambient temp about 75 degrees F.
Also, In the video it appears at times the feeler gauges are bending. Like at 5:43 You cannot check proper tolerance with a bent gauge. Later I removed the gauge from the pack and put a bend in it so that it slid in without any resistance. Should have put this in the video because its critical.
Below is the procedure for the 6.7 Engine (2010) from the service manual.
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Overhead setting is only required at the interval specified in the appropriate Operation and Maintenance Manual/Owners Manual or when engine repairs cause removal of the rocker levers and/or loosening of the adjusting screws.
Excessive valve lash prior to this can indicate an overhead set incorrectly from a previous repair, worn valve stems, crossheads, push rods, or rocker levers*.
Loose rocker levers and the need to reset the valve clearance frequently can also indicate camshaft lobe or tappet wear. If an inspection of the rocker levers, valve stems, crossheads, and push rod does not show wear, then tappet and/or camshaft lobe wear can be suspected.
NOTE: The TDC indicator is on the vibration damper/crankshaft speed indicator ring.
For 6.7 L engines, align the vibration damper/crankshaft speed indicator ring so that the TDC indicator is at the 12-o'clock position. If both number 1 cylinder rocker levers are loose, move to the following steps. If both number 1 cylinder rocker levers are not loose, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
With the engine in this position, lash can be measured on the following rocker levers:
(E = exhaust, I = Intake)
1I, 1E, 2I, 3E, 4I, and 5E.
Lash Check Limits
mm in Intake 0.152 MIN 0.006 0.381 MAX 0.015 Exhaust 0.381 MIN 0.015 0.762 MAX 0.030
NOTE: Checking the overhead setting is usually performed as part of a troubleshooting procedure, and resetting is not required during checks as long as the lash measurements are within the above ranges.
NOTE: The clearance is correct when some resistance is “felt” when the feeler gauge is slipped between the crosshead and the rocker lever socket.
Measure lash by inserting a feeler gauge between the crosshead and the rocker lever socket. If the lash measurement is out of specification, loosen the locknut, and adjust the lash to nominal specifications.
Valve Lash Specifications (Nominal)
mm in
Intake 0.254 0.010
Exhaust 0.508 0.020
Tighten the locknut and measure the lash again.
Torque Value:
24 n.m
[212 in- lb ]
Using barring tool, Part Number 3824591 (I used A 15mm ratchet on the vibration damper nut) , rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
Following the same steps and specifications as previously stated, measure lash for the following rocker levers:
(E = exhaust, I = Intake)
Six-cylinder 2E, 3I, 4E, 5I, 6I, and 6E.
Reset if out of specification.
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I hope this is useful information to someone. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions on how we did this.
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TAGS #TRUCK #CUMMINS #6.7 #DODGE #DIESEL #VALAVE LASH #DURAMAX #POWERSTROKE #HOW TO #MORTONSONTHEMOVE
Late to the game here, but I just adjusted the valve lash on my 6.7 Cummins yesterday. I had watched this video beforehand, and it was very helpful. The biggest time saver that I found was using the Cummins engine barring tool. It lets you bar the engine over using a male splined socket that engages the flywheel through a cover on the passenger side of the engine. I used a variety of extensions and wobble sockets so that I could bar the engine from the front of the truck, and watch for the TDC marker, which I had marked with a Sharpie, so it was more visible. I was able to do all of the work by myself, in just over three hours, and now my truck sounds much better.
Very good! We should have used the barring tool. I think we are coming up on needing to do it again, (engine is starting to rattle again)
Mortons on the Move the one I used is the OTC 7471A that I purchased from Amazon. I have a 2013 Ram 3500 Heavy Duty High Output, so I have an Aisin AS69RC transmission, but the tool is advertised as working on all 5.9 and 6.7 Cummins engines in Dodge/Ram trucks, with any transmission combination.
ua-cam.com/video/GugiAlNGEsg/v-deo.html
good video, not sure what you mean by just a little bit of drag, but when lash is set correctly the next size up feeler shouldn't fit. I did mine yesterday and when the gap is correct the corresponding gage will have quite a bit of drag. I found when there was just a little drag I could still fit .005 or more in, according to the tolerance though that would still leave you within spec.
Think of when you drag your hand or finger on glass. The more you put pressure on the glass, the more your hand drags. That's basicly how it feels. The tighter the adjuster is, the harder it is to pull on the feeler gauage. the looser the adjuster is, the easier it is to pull on it. ALWAYS CONSULT THE FACTORY REPAIR MANUAL OR A REPUTABLE REPAIR MANUAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Excellent video. I'm considering a RAM3500 diesel and seeing this done is very helpful as I've never worked on a diesel before. Suggestion: Had a friend who was a full time mechanic. NEVER wore his wedding ring when working under the hood but just forgot one day. Holding a wrench in his left hand which was touching the ring, he slipped and touched the battery terminals. Melted the flesh on his finger under the ring in a heartbeat. Be careful.
Well it is muuuch easier on a Cummins than the Duramax or Powerstroke. That is one of the reasons i went this route. Sooooo much stuff has to come apart each time you get at the engine in the ford or GM including the turbo. I like to be able to work on my engines myself. You can even do injectors in this engine yourself pretty easy.
I have caught my ring a number of times on things and it can be quite scary. Thanks for the recommendation, I think I will take it off next time!
I drove a 5500 work truck with the Cummins for 5 years and loved it but never worked on it. We had fleet maintenance. Another quick tip: put 1/2 a teaspoon of Dawn dish soap in your hand and then rub it in til it's dry, like you're putting on lotion, before you begin. When you're done, just wash your hands. They'll be completely clean in no time.
Mortons on the Move do you still have your dpf/egr?
Kind Of.... They are still there but dont do anything. (Its been modded) Hence the slightly tighter than current recommendations on lash. I used the marine spec/ 24V spec for this engine.
D Hyde I have a silicone band and I love it
Failing the box wrench, you might consider pass-through socket wrenches. Thanks very much for making and sharing this video!
I had no clue what you did, but it sure looked difficult. Way to go on that lash!
+Mark Jones Lol thanks, kinda geared this one towards someone looking to do the same. Probably should have explained valve lash in the video : ) . The lash adjusts how the valves that let air and exhaust into and out of the engine cylinders move. If they are off the tiniest bit it can screw up an engines performance, especially a diesel. I am not sure why they are adjustable but I think its just because the tolerances are so tight that if an engine wears a bit as it gets older you can put it back into spec as when new... which is what i did.
the best valve lash adjustment video out there
and just a question - i've done mine - most rattle noises are gone - a bit noise left under acceleration, so i'm going to do that all over again.
Do you think that if i'll use 1.1 and 2.1 feelers and tight until the end so there will be no drag - it will make all valves consistent for sure - what do you think?
Good Video Tom; To make it easier on you and Cait, Get a white paint marker to highlight line (TDC). You can also mark the rocker so you did that one and don't have to rely on writing it down.
Great idea! I need to do it again soon.
3:15 Hella Funny!!😁 Good thing you didnt round off the bolt
It's actually quite a bit easier on a deleted truck. Without the egr cooler in the way you have substantially more room to move around. Nice video bud.
Oh i bet.... I should really remove mine its only there for appearance on my truck....
Mortons on the Move what do you mean it’s “for appearance”? It’s not currently doing anything?
I was thinking the same thing. I didn't have that much trouble doing mine.
Seems a lot of cummins mechs are adjusting them to .08 instead of .10. Say it makes an incredible difference unbelievably quiet.
I thought about tightening it a bit more but was not sure about performance... maybe on the next adjustment.
Valves expand during heat cycles and if your truck is the least bit turned up then you really should set truck slightly higher to account for valve stem stretch that way your valves fully seat. You don’t want to burn one after a few thousand miles or so.
@@jakejordan1982 reading publications talking to various Cummins Mechs at different events. Current trends and what not. I can tell by your comment your the type that looks for debate or argument in the comment sections. I'm not your guy sorry.
Great vid it’s about time mine gets done. Think it will go to garage though don’t trust myself to mess with stuff like that lol especially if I want the engine to stay happy. On a side note how’s the emmision system going you gonna keep it stock or eventually delete it ?
just a FYI you want to change the crankcase filter every 60k or 50k if you do alot of heavy towing. if you dont you will end up sucking oil into the turbo witch will cause some significant damage to your engine.
diesel\m/n14 or ovrrpressuarize the crank case and blow out the oil pan and rear main seals! been there already and have a video about it :( . that thing is getting gutted and vented to atmosphere on the next change.
Mortons on the Move, yea that too lol. we had a isb 6.7 with 350k run away a year ago at my work becouse the crankcase filter was never changed and the air filter was plugged up. the entire intake system from the turbo to the intake manifold was filled with oil. the engine was a total loss all becouse the customer never services his shit lol.
Thank you sir and ma'am ( wifey). I just did this on my 15 and she is purring much quieter than before with 153,000
Glad it helped you! We're coming up on needing it again!
@@MortonsontheMove ha yea this truck is my office on wheels, so it'll come time again quick. I've put about 80k on her since I've had her and plan on putting a million or more on her before I call it quits and get a new one
good video young man thank you
What oil are you running? I adjusted mine and it was a lot more black under my valve cover. It it oil change time though.
Is your EGR still intact? Mine does not function any more and my oil is much cleaner. I just run shell rotell or valvoline premium blue. I dont use synthetics for diesel because I have heard they are more prone to cylinder lap and glaze at high temp idle (so I have heard, no scientific proof on this). Synthetic is also just really expensive for that much oil. I just run for 8-10k then change and don't let it low idle for long periods.
I'd recommend running amsoil or a really good synthetic oil. I use amsoil in my motorcycle and at 70K miles, the entire engine/gear box looks like a 5K mile unit
Sweet. I have got to do this on my 08 First Gen 6.7L Turbo Diesel Cummins. 6-Speed.
Should be about the same as this! Good luck
I am about to install my air compressor on a 2007 f650 but I don't know if I need to sync with timing.?
Is this the first time you have done this? I've heard it can be all over from the factory. Thanks for the videos!
+Olive Drab Yup first time, and they were actually very close to spec and all set about the same. There was a little variation but not much. At least in my engine i would say the factory (probably robots) did a good job setting them.
Here is some advice when adjusting the valves on the engine
Use an angle feeler gauge for better access and try using a inch pound torque wrench to get accurate drag on the gauge then and you will know that every valve lash is the same.
How do you use the torque wrench to get the drag right?
@@Philipians121
You find the correct inch lbs that you’re comfortable with then use that inch lbs on the remaining valve lash this way you will know that every valve is set the same.
You use the torque method on intake and exhaust valves
I know nothing about cars, and don't care to much for them, but this video was great!
+Bailey Stanfield lol not sure how you stumbled upon this video then but thanks!
hey you never showed us the tdc when it's center how is it supposed to look when it is? but other than that whenever I need to do this I'll be using your video thank you so much! you did a great job
Thanks! I guess we did cut away at that point. Basically you just want to line the TDC straight up and down with the block. Its easier to see in person than in the video, however since it is offset to the fan it can be a bit deceiving. Not too hard of a project but one you want to make sure you get right.
Some friendly advice, always rotate your engine in direction of operation which would be clockwise when looking at engine from front. Most engines rotate this way.
Thanks for sharing. About to do mine
Sent my truck to a mechanic for new injectors, how can I tell if he replaced them ?
Were you having issues with the truck? If they do it correctly there should not be any way to tell unless you are using a different model injector that looks different. The fuel lines will have to come off and if they have never been off before they will probably show marks from removal. I would ask for the old injectors back unless they are keeping them for a core charge. What engine is it?
great job tom!!!
Excellent video.
Thanks.
Awesome informative Video experience Y'alls God Bless Ya
Good stuff! I appreciate it. 🤝
I don't guess you have the rest of the manual do you? Great video by the way, thanks for sharing
Sorry I dont, Pulled those pages from another source online. Wish I did tho! Glad you liked the vid.
what year do you have?
2010
Sorry, I meant air2bmc.
air2bmc - I know you can download the '08 service manual for free with clickable pdf hyperlinks. Not sure about the other years. I would image 07.5 to 09 would be the same. Not sure about 2010 and newer.
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls God Bless Ya 🙏
Thank you!
Thanks a lot men you helped a lot
I want to ask everyone who commented on this why it didn’t show how he got it to tdc? You know! Where he stoped at . I’m not complaining I just want to know
Thanks
is the valve cover plastic?
Believe it or not it is, Its a very heavy/ thick ABS type plastic
wow
@@guuguguguggug no. The plastic on the very top is for show. The piece under the filter he pulled off is the actual valve cover.
How do you know you need a valve adjustment...beside the motor having 150k miles...
It's pretty hard to tell because it happens so slowly but increased tick or knock from the engine and slightly lower power.
Mortons on the Move mines at 106k every morning I start it it knocks /tick for a couple of seconds then it goes away...you think valves need adjustment ?
@@JuanVazquez-gg8ncthat’s typically your fuel system, normal for startup. Building pressure/ getting any air out
@@alexl710 appreciated
Im gonna go ahead and pay a good buddy to adjust my noisy 6.7 valves cause I don't want to deal with it
I kept expecting the truck next to him to explode
lol :)