Busting the Rust and repairing this Tacoma frame
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 гру 2022
- The fun continues as we address more concerning areas of this truck frame. This shows the whole process of repairing another rusty section of the frame.
- Авто та транспорт
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YK8Mq6HWOwI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](/img/tr.png)
This is, by far, the best frame repair video on UA-cam! I have the exact same truck and I am planning on repairing my frame as well. After I bought a brand new 2021 Tacoma a couple of years ago, my intent was to replace the 2003. The older Tacoma has less issues with shifting and engine performance. That said, I've decided to keep my 2003 and reinforce the frame, which is not too bad except at the rear mount of the leaf springs. Thank you for a very inclusive video!!
Thank you, and good luck with your Tacoma build.
Great video. I'm in the process of doing the same type of repairs to my 2004 Tacoma. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the positive response!
I'm glad that you found it helpful as that was the goal of this video series.
Good luck with your Tacoma repairs!
You made a great repair.
The extra effort you put in looks really sharp.
Thank you!
Love the work you're doing on this Tacoma. I bought the same one for me and my daughter to work on together for her first vehicle. Was going to do the frame caps until i came across your videos here! thanks for posting them, i'll be following the exact same process now!
Thank you!
I'm glad that you have found my videos helpful for your own project.
Good luck with the build.
That's the cursed spot for every truck. That downturn from the box is where everything lands and piles up and holds moisture and rots out. I prefer no paint on the frame. Fluid film on the inside, because it fogs better and creeps better, but also gets washed away easier on the outside, which is why I use woolwax on the on outside.
I don't want any coating that doesn't stay a fluid, because any solid paints or rubber get compromised, get water and salt trapped under them, never dry out, rusts faster, and eventually flakes away, leaving exposed metal.
The woolwax and fluid film don't trap water underneath like that, heal from small impacts/chips, and don't flake away.
The problem is that you have to have it clean to do it. All that debris inside there has to go. I was thinking maybe a hose like plumbers use on sewer lines for clogs. Stick that in and power was the inside out from the back to the front to get all that garbage out.
A specialized pressure washer nozzle could help clean in the frame. It would be even more effective with abrasive media added. Some people have had success by using a plumbers snake setup on a drill. The tip flailing around helps to knock thicker rust off.
@@PostRt Oh, good idea. I wonder how a cylinder hone with beads would do too?
Worth a try if you can find an access hole big enough to get it in there. Perhaps, build a dingle hone with small linked chains rather than the wires. I guess it would be a similar concept to the plumbers snake but more effective. Then you could more easily feed them inside a frame access hole?
I use different color markers to show which areas need more or less area finished down. Thanks for the video
That sounds like a great idea!
I have an 04 tundra, same issues, frame rot but only near the sway bar. I'm going to repair it and take it on as a project. Lucky for me, no inspections in my neck of the woods to worry about. I'm amazed at how many of these trucks have these issues. Toyota really dropped the ball on this. No chance of a recall / new frame either. Campaign is closed :(
Yeah, I wish I was better informed of the lawsuit back when I first bought my truck. The best option for me was to dig in and repair my frame.
Excellent job well done totally enjoyed watching this very clean and would never know it's been repaired
I appreciate the kind words. I'm looking forward to getting the truck back on the road.
I bought a 2001 Single cab 2.7 4x4 SR5 from Louisiana the last 1/3 of the frame was rusted body mounts and cross members swapped out.. Great work!
Sounds like you also did a good job fixing your Tacoma. Great work 👍
The rear crossemembers bolt in, but
did you have to weld in new body mounts on the frame?
@@PostRt body mounts I still have to do, I want to weld some steel on the inner side of the last 1/3 of the frame.
I have a 2004 Tundra going through the same issues found a race car builder that's been helping me strengthen up the frame like this
That is great! They should be able to make it right again and maybe even add on a few speed secrets.
Great prep jobs on rusty rail before welding the new piece in. Hopefully you applied zinc primer on the back side before welding so it won’t start to rust right away.
Good video footage, good work. I would however always keep a guard on that angle grinder. A lot of guys take them off. They say it's because they cannot get in tight corners with the guard, however I would not remove it under any circumstances. I'm a pipe welder and I've seen so many people cut their fingers on those damn things without the guard or their lower thigh. They come with guards for a reason....
Someone told me many years ago, "Never get too comfortable with any tool, always be fearful of it so you don't let your guard down."
We sell a product called “zip wax” for anti fog at my company, most guys says it works well.
"Anti-Fog" for frame sealing?
I need to get this type of work done on my 2000 lexus lx. It's basically the same SUV as the Toyota Landcruiser. The only rust is on the frame.
Fix that frame and keep it protected. Your vehicle will last a long time.
You are doing a great job keep it up
Thank you!
My Tacoma is 21 years old and the body and interior are in great shape. Although the frame has some rust holes.
I took a long air blower and blew as much junk out of the frame as I could and then I sprayed some used motor oil in there and on the outside also. That was last year and it still looks damp from the oil. I feel that the oil has crept into the pores of the metal and is keeping the moisture and air away. Paint isn’t a good idea because water will get under it and keep the metal wet all the time. And don’t forget rust never sleeps.
If you have rust holes in your frame, I would be very cautious driving it. There will be much worse hiding.
When properly prepped and applied, a chassis coating will last. I will be using a wax coating over the chassis coating as well. Used engine oil should help but I would not want to have oil dripping out all over my garage or anywhere I parked my truck.
I agree the dripping oil is a bit messy. But I don’t have concrete in my garage although I wish I did. And I try to not spray so much as to have it running off. How is your truck doing now that you repaired it. I wish Toyota had better frames in those older trucks because they are great trucks.
Liked and subscribed, nice work!
I appreciate that!
There are many videos covering the Tacoma rebuild.
Hopefully, you find them helpful.
@@PostRt 🆒
excellent work sir
Thank you!
Very nice work !
I appreciate that!
4:07 ... wouldn't a much better and thorough way to clean this up here be to sandblast it with some black aluminum-oxide grit ... i bot the blast-out-of-a-bucket kit from EastWood to clean sections on my '97 taco down to the nitty gritty (by the Cat where it was the worst under the rubber dealer protective coating) then used EastWood afterblast to remove any flashrust and it left a nice silvery zinc coating to primer over
I mentioned this in other videos. There will always be pros and cons to each method. Abrasive blasting is a messy process but can yield good results. You will also need a sizeable air compressor and a good air dryer setup to keep the abrasive moving freely. Most of my work was done during the Midiwest winter months so cleaning up abrasive outside and several other factors was a major reason I avoided it. Those bucket kits will work but will likely take a long time to strip the frame. I would needle scale the big stuff and follow up with abrasive blasting.
@@PostRt here are what my results/observations were with using the abrasive media blast-from-a-bucket... the OEM factory coating (both crusted and non-crusted parts) it peeled off like soft butter, no sweat!... BUT! when I went to try and blast the freshly applied EastWood extreme chassis paint I used it took MUCH effort to remove just a little bit off... so I now wonder if a wire wheel type might remove the EastWood primer and top coating more efficiently to redo some areas
Good video, great job!
Thank you Gary!
I appreciate the support.
I would highly recommend anyone doing serious rust repair to use POR-15. Nothing else beats it
I've used it before. It is decent stuff and has been around for a while.
How will I get the pot-15 am in Nigeria
Enjoyed very much! I just would drill all big technological wholes that were present. I guess these are also important for proper ventilation. Since the frames are bended in few places, I found much more rust on some bends. Needs good ventilation...
Thank you
Use sta-bil or fluid film type coating to keep rust at bay. Never paint a frame; it WILL peel off. You could have coated the inner parts before welding with weldable primer.
The inside frame was treated. I will be using a proper chassis coating and later adding a top coat of protective wax. The coatings will last if the proper steps are taken.
Paint will fail on pretty much anything if you don't know how. Many frames have been painted and successful in not peeling. The proper environment and products is what matters.
I disagree. We've built log trailers and sandblasted and primed and painted with farm implement paint. It stays on. The reason why u can't get paint to stay is prep. Gotta have a mechanical or chemical bond. If u do this properly, it will last a lifetime. Eastwood makes a gr8 frame coating that I've used. If u paint over ANY rust it won't stay. Gotta start out from new, clean, blasted etc. The acid etches and converts whatever rust is left. It will not rust again as long as that coating is kept 100%. So many clean up some rust and then spray with rubber undercoating, terrible idea.
My Pap worked with a guy who had a 48 sedan in 60s. Pap asked how do u keep it so nice in Ohio next to lake? 1 quart or any oil new or used, same with trans fluid, 1 tube if grease and 1 or 2 wax ring toilet gaskets. Mix and heat in a old pot. Will not rust after this and costs $6 to make if using used fluids, oils.
When using Acid u can only use oil based paint after. If not u gotta rewet, let set, then clean with water or water and baking soda. I've used muratic for heavy rust 5 min or so then rinse with baking soda water mix, then ospho, then whatever paint. A frame or under body needs a gr8 coating in rust country to last. We've painted dozers, skidder, log trailers, etc. If u prep, and get a best case starting surface, sandblasted, etched with acid, etc u will get a mechanical bond, get a good coat of epoxy, then shoot a adhesion promoter, then a good tough paint like JD Black with hardener, then can't with the used oils, etc I will guarntee u it will not rust. A log bunk is hollow round or square tube. U can't really get in there to clean it. All u can do is get it sprayed with Ospho, then use a 360 nozzle and get primer, paint etc inside, it's alot of work on a 40 foot trailer. We sprayed with Ospho, coated with used oils and wax, yrs later, still solid. clearance lights go on outside so we got a 2 inch hole to look into with bore camera.
Best thing is layers. A good example is look at a new trailer any size for sale. They don't do a good job. It will rust sitting there cause they didn't prep, weld, coat all the metal. I've sandblasted them and the paint comes off with the air, b4 sand gets hitting it. Try to take 60 grit and sand on any JD or any heavy machinery or farming machines. That paint makes black beauty coal slag work to get it off. I can blast a few frames, body's in time it takes to do a piece of machinery. That paint and primer is the real deal. I agree with you about wax, oil etc. Bit as somebody who's done this work for years, it's not impossible to get paint to stick and stay inside a frame, etc it is hard if we don't spend extra time making sure the metal is clean, dry, rough surface, sealed, primed, painted and then protected. It's alot of steps. But worth it if u keep or use the machine and want to keep it. A lil bit of prevention, like stopping rust when it's a small bubble, not half a frame is gone. Try acid.
It's way easier to get into hard spots and get clean and ready for a primer, paint etc when u can't get a sander, grinder, sandblaster to clean it. It's a uphill battle but it can be won. And can be won cheaply than $100+ bucket of wax with no oils that need applied 2 times or more a year. Acid is $20 for muratic, and same for ospho. They both have saved me lots of time and money.
@@PostRt Yes. Proper steps. Some of these frames are a PIA. It's hard to get a frame 100% without a teardown, strip down bare frame and blast it. Even then depending on zip code,at start to rust b4 u even get done. I've sandblasted and restored farm tractors from the early 1900s. Some of that paint after ww2, was tough stuff to clean. Only place on 540 skidder it came off easy was on corners. Just like TV we don't see the hours it takes cause the video would be hours and hours long. It's ALOT of work. My Father got us a 1949 chevy truck. We drove it through the yard then spent next 1 yr working day and night every day for a year taking it all apart and fixing, blasting, welding, cutting, sanding, etc. Burns u out. That's just stock drive train, not hot rods. We ended up taking a break for a week and got fresh look at it. Getting a frame good while all together is not easy. Still get burnt out after hours of work. And under that fastener is rust still there. Waiting for u to spray urr choice on, then when u look in 6 months u c the brown stain of madness. But with the wax and oil this helps from spreading but never perfect. Only way to do it perfect takes almost a dip in a tank. But then with a auto or machine etc if ppl b4 us did it all perfect, what would we have to work on? Keeps that cycle going.
@Jason Christopher
Absolutely, the prep work is super important and often skipped over. Then people blame the product for being inferior. I am planning to use Eastwood products on this truck when I'm finished with the fab work and cleanup.
Had replace frame 1990s toyota 4x4 extra cab sr5 black stick 3.4 v6 new engine blew 3.0 v6 threw rod 😊
I hear those old 3.0's were not very good. The 3.4's are solid though, just need more power.
Great work, thank you for taking the time to share your process! Gonna tackle my frame this year
Thank you very much. I am nearly finished fixing the rest of the rear frame work and will share when finished.
Good luck with your frame fixing.
Nice job
Thank you
was it hard getting the crossmembers out? been trying to do the same thing to mine and i’ve broken 3 ratchets trying to get them off!!
Most of the bolts needed to be heated to get them out. An impact wrench helps for loosening stuck bolts, too. A standard ratchet or even a breaker bar provides a constant torque with the stuck fasteners, which increases the chance of them shearing off. I'd recommend heating them or possibly cutting them off as a last resort.
Wow nice Job
Thank you for the positivity!
It helps keep the momentum going on this project.
Just mother nature's way of reclaiming what is her and our way of slowing her down.
A constant battle but in the end, mother nature will get what's hers. Fortunately, I am in it for the short game 😄
Imagine in a thousand years if there were no humans around....what would be left? Nothing.
Im doing this right now i put conduit threw the whole thing top and bottom with holes every couple inches mounted a nozzle now i pressure up my bug sprayer with whatever i treat it with every time i change oil lol .. this was the hardest job iv done
That's a great idea!
I was surprised you did not apply any rust prevention on the inside?
I did. You will see it in the other videos.
Thanks for watching!
I have an ‘09 that has the frame recall on it in ‘18 but the dealer just did the clean and paint and now it’s rusting again fairly bad. I’d seriously like to just have it taken apart and the frame really worked over. Am I crazy? I’m not a gear head to this extent.- Hoping I can find someone to do it. Like the truck just enough to be willing to drop a lot of coin on it to restore it all. Other than frame, it’s in pretty good shape.
Oh no, sounds like they didn't do a very good job then. I would try to clean it up really well first to see how bad the rust is. If the rust is not severe, I would recommend a good quality chassis coating product onto the steel and then a topcoat product like Fluidfilm or the like.
I believe the recall was to R&R the frame.
@@PostRt let’s put it this way: The other day, from the outside of the frame near the crossmember under the transmission, I effortlessly pushed a 1/2” box end wrench clean through the frame.
@ntnsty Yikes! That is a scary thing to have happen. Now is the time to decide whether to repair it or replace the truck. A shame too because the rest of these trucks are usually in good shape and reliable.
Good repair but why not treet the new steel.inside the frame
.or did you off camera?
Oh yes, I did clean and treat the steel before capping the rails. Also, you can check out my later videos, where I applied a series of protective internal and external coatings.
Sand blaster and a torch is much easier
Those methods would also work. The cut off wheel is fast, precise, and also doesn't introduce a ton of extra heat into an already weakened frame.
Nice clean work. What kind of leaf spring are those
Thank you!
The leaf springs are from Old Man Emu or OME for short. These are their 2 inch lift version.
I just noticed this recently about 2nd gen Tacoma. There’s a class action suit that we can take advantage of to replace the frames. They also upgrade the shackles and leaf springs from 3 to 4 springs. Has yours been done already in the past because you have, not only 4 springs, but 5? BTW great work.
Unfortunately, that lawsuit had expired long ago for my truck.
I rebuilt the suspension with aftermarket leaf springs. They lifted the truck about 2 inches.
The frame replacements are all over. My 03 Tacoma got a new frame in 2010, it's now junk and why I'm watching this video. I swear Toyota must be (not them, but their vendors) using recycled steel that isn't made well. It doesn't last, it flakes apart, it's terrible steel compared to the steel on an older car or a 1970's GMC or Chevy truck, they don't rust like these Taco's do...
@@dc6233 ya, I see. Never owned a Toyota so I didn’t even consider the ( bad frame ) possibility till later. But hey, still loving it and dealing with it.
Still can't make my mind up🤔if on the outside plate you butt welded it or fillet welded it because of the original frame has a. Small radius towards the front looks like a butt and back of the spring hanger fillet I guess it was easier to make the template with a hard edge ie not on the radius took my tub of today and mine is bad both inner and outer any advice how to go about doing both sides and possibly top or bottom I'd really like to keep the radius unless I can put a fillet weld and grind it into a radius fab video I've watched them all great stuff carry on the good work looking forward to the painting it 👍
Thank you, I'm happy to help with some suggestions. I finished adding in the rear crossmembers and fuel tank last week, so things are really moving along.
I'm just speculating since I haven't seen how bad your frame is, but the top rail is likely to be in decent shape since it can stay drier. If you plan to replace the inner and outer plate, I would suggest finishing one at a time. You should be okay adding the inside reinforcement plate like I did, even if it is very rusted. You may only be able to spot weld in certain thicker areas though. I would still plate it from the inside but possibly add an "L shaped" flange where it ties to the upper rail. A fillet weld at the plate abutment will allow you to grind that radiused edge to your plates. Otherwise, you would have to form it in. Hammer-form with a die or even add some heat to make it easier to roll that edge. Of course, a press would also be able to make that radius. If it is really bad, you could make some temporary jigs out of jack stands or something to hold the frame where it is before cutting things out. Definitely take a bunch of measurements or try accessing the factory frame measurement specs from a body shop.
Hope this helps.
What thickness plate are you using ? Also is it hot or cold rolled ?
11 gauge, common mild steel HR.
Flight deck goggles
Thank you. I will check them out.
Hey Boss! What are those plastic caps you put at the end of the gas lines? Where could I get those
They can be found if you look up vacuum or engine caps and plugs kits. They came in assortments usually. I have tons of them saved up from many years of doing automotive work.
@@PostRt thank you brother! Keep up the excellent work. I truly appreciate the reply and hard work you’ve done to the truck. I’ve been following along with my own truck because of you! Mahalo 🤙🏽
I'm glad to help, and thanks so much for following along.
I hope everything goes well with your truck project.
I would like to do the same with the chassis of my tacoma it is 2018 so mine is not rusty at all the only thing I would like to do is that the chassis of my truck be completely sawn and that it is no longer C-shaped it is Very flexible and it causes my bed to jump everywhere, it seems that it was loose and that it would fall at any moment. Does anyone know if this could be done with my truck, make it with a rigid chassis?
Yeah, those have the open channel. Boxing the frame is would certainly stiffen it up. The composite beds on those trucks tend to loosen up and rattle around. Check your bolts and maybe see if they need a retorque.
Try using a ski goggle with a clear lense
Thank you. I will look into those.
What’s the thickness of the new steel you’re using?
11 gauge
@@PostRt thank you! Gonna have to go and buy a plate now.
The C channle on the last 2 feet of my 76 JEEP J10 i just bought for 800$ has rusted so bad, it went from 3/16th thick nearly or .188 to .100 or even less in some area nearly paper thin or thick and thin meaning large pits ... Should I just cut all that out and weld new steel in ? Or clean it up and descale it, and weld over top like you did ? Normally Id cut out a hand sized section and weld in new plate.. but with this being over a foot+ of thin metal.. Im not sure if i should cut it out or weld new steel over top and seal it up to strengthen whatever is left. I am learly of welding plate over top of metal because it can cause more rust later if moisture gets in there some how.
The top of the C channle is "mostly" there, its pitted badly, but its still 1/8th or more thicker, so i was thinking just cutting the entire bottom lip out which is paper thin "due to the rust falling on it" and then cutting most of the center section out as well.. the top of the c channle "and some middle" should hold the frame from shifting, and rebuilding that portion of the channle, and if i have too, fish plating the joints. of course everyone on the forums is calling my jeep a parts jeep.. get a new frame blah blah... well it isnt as easy as they can jusst type it out... my jeep is 50 years old and its the 8 foot bed.. those frames are hard to find.. So i feel fixing it would be easier to be honest.
I hate forums.. thinking of not posting on em anymore.. people attack you for wanting to fix things.. if peolple saw your frame theyd say junk it and find a new car.
But why ? When you can fix it
Any media platform with a comment section will bring out the "experts" and the "know it alls." Rarely you will find someone that is truly being helpful, but I do appreciate those that do. If you have the time, tools, and know-how, I say, "fix it yourself."
If the frame section is not very complex, I would probably fabricate a new section and fishplate it together. The recommended splice is more of a "Z-shaped" cut.
If it the section has a lot of specific bends, tabs, and other things incorporated to it, I would probably try to save it.
Either way, you decide to tackle the job, make sure to measure everything out, and write it down somewhere.
If you get the steel very clean and treat it with something to prevent rusting, it will last a long time. I'm not worried about overlapping layers because I will be sealing everything when I'm done. Then I plan to spray an oil or cavity wax coating on top for further protection. That should seal everything up and prevent moisture from penetrating.
@@PostRt last 2 feet of c channle is straight. Not bend or curves
@Black Powder and Lights
Sounds like you're in the clear.
Get yourself some fresh new steel of the OE thickness and fab it up!
Cut it back to a spot where it is more intact and hopefully in a flat area to make mending it together easier.
@@PostRt thanks. I am jist tired if the guys on the forums. My 90 Jeep Grand Wagoneer.. had a bad frame in dozens of spots.. people ssid oh dont buy it.. well its fixed and (daily driven) now.. The frame, Like a 1+ foot section by the gas tank. I cut the entire section out.. left only the top c channle and 2 inchs in the middle.. then welded a donor peice in.. it was a very large peice.. i didnt even fish plate it. And its held fine.
In fact someone just welded angle iron in it and it made ir rust 10x worse. Thats why im weary of that.
Other sections.. my shock mounts up front in the boxed portion of the frame. Rusted out.. the shock mount pulled off snd pulled with the frame.. and rotted the lower frame.. and behind it the engine mount.. and cracked the top.. i cut.. cleaned welded thr crack.. nee steel.. new shock mount.. been yesrs held up fine.
The rear frame.. like 5 peices my hand sized i cut out welded new peices.. even on the cross member... all held fine.
I even towed my 76 Jeep j10 on a flst bed uhaul total weight 6500 lbs.. 300 miles on my fixed frame.. and no issies at all.
This is why i hate people on the forums.. calling my Jeep junk.. just because its rear leaf spring mounts are rotten and the last 2 feet or so of frame in the ssme spot of thr mount.. is rotten.
If i fixed my wagoneers extensive rust... why couldnt i do this to the J10 pickup ? I feel these forums are full of whiners who have a cant do attitude.
I spent 8p0$ on this.. versus 6-10k$ with a better frame.. but still rusted as they all rust back there..
Can you perhaps maybe look at my Jeep j10 video . Youll get an idea of the rust im talking aboit back there. (Ignire the bed lol) that is gonna be fixed and rebuilt too.
Today im gonna finish cutting the rest of thr bed rot off.
You installed that layered metal inside the frame with no type of coating whatsoever?
The job is not finished yet but I will be coating the inside and outside of the frame when I am done. That was discussed in the previous videos but I know most people skip right on through and miss the details.
If you have any suggestions on protective coatings, let me know.
@@PostRt good to know, absolutely spot on job otherwise very impressive! I grew up in the Northeast and dealing with this crap for decades but now live in Georgia thankfully...😁. If you haven't used chassisaver I highly recommend it, what's going to be your final top coat for the outside of the frame?
@@Jeepdriver75 After a good coat of primer and chassis specific black paint, I would like to coat the frame with either a Fluidfilm type coating or special spray wax.
@@PostRt Fuid Film is great, it'll keep that baby preserved nicely!
@@PostRt used motor oil thinned with kerosene out of a yard sprayer and drench the inside of the rails twice a year I just did this exact job on a 99 Tacoma for my older brother I have three five gallon buckets of Toyota rust his had nothing but the top edge of the rails left after we beat on it for an hour and was snapped in half on both sides right below the cab on both sides best of luck to you on the repair that Toyota steal don't like to weld for shit either it literally has rust clear through the steel from factory worse than the old IH Scouts and Fox motocross goggles are the shit for working under rusty vehicles and you can buy peal offs for them so they don't get grinder burnt from sparks
เยี่ยม
Much hard work!
What MIG do you have ?
It is an Everlast machine.
What type of steel do you use to repair the frame?
I don't remember the specific alloy. It is 11 gauge, cold rolled steel. Nothing crazy and definitely stronger than the rust that was present before!
@@PostRtwhy not use hot roll steel? Just curious I know nothing about welding
@joshuacruz4046 That is what the metal supply store had available at that time. The thickness of the steel was closely matched to the OEM too.
Sand blasting wouldn't that do better job to see hidden rust my 09 h3t alpha hummer bed frame real bad in sections mine is heavy do to overlanding build with bed rack rooftop tent I have a welder but I'm not doing the work I need the job done right so when I go off road it's not going to snap into I know that safe tcap kit makes sections kit but I think I'm out of luck because gm only made 5300 trucks and 400 alpha 5.3 v8 I have one of the 400 but the frame is same I just need to find a very good frame shop who do this type of work 😮
That sounds like a cool rig!
Sandblasting will do a great job of stripping the rust. I mentioned why I used an alternative method on my truck. Sandblasting is messy, requires a large compressor, and most of my work was done during a winter climate. Another thing to think about is all of that sand working its way into every little space it can. In a perfect world, stripping the frame and components down to a minimum, then sandblast.
What do u charge for this
I did this one for my personal vehicle. I have not done this as a repair business.
It is a lot of labor, so I'd imagine a shop charging a pretty penny for this kind of work.
1:11 .... is the beginning of this video the area by the fuel tank? ... this looks much different than the inside of the frame on my '97 rig
I'm sure it is possible that Toyota made some changes to the frames over the years.
My truck is a late production 2003.
Is yours also extended cab?
If you look up the factory part numbers, there are several frame part numbers available depending on model.
@@PostRt yes, mine is an extended cab also... the thing I noticed on yours after you cut and peeled that rear section was the absence of an interior structural brace (or whatever its called) located perhaps six inches towards the rear of truck starting at the rear-most frame drain hole 1:51 ... unless! yours had already disintegrated into that awful mess inside there
@efil4kizum My truck had the brace inside. I mentioned that in the video. The RH side was worse and mostly rusted away, but the LH side was still there. I cut it out when cleaning up the frame.
@@PostRt i should start watching your videos starting from the beginning! lmao... i have been jumping around from one to another during downtime in no particular order
Sadly Toyota made a deal with the American government so that the US would supply the frames. If they had used the Japanese frames this wouldn’t have happened as the steel was more superior in quality and protected properly.
I was surprised by the number of frames that Toyota replaced. At least they tried to take care of the issue.
Ive just used this phosphate acid and washed it off and 😕🤬 its turning orange rust right Infront of my 😮 so thats no good 🤔
Was it similar to the phosphoric metal etch that I used?
I know from experience with muriatic acid, a type of hydrochloric acid, that it will rust quickly after the rust is converted. I tested a few spots to see how it would work and it ended up rusting if I didn't quickly neutralize the area and protect the metal. The phosphoric acid leaves a whitish/gray once dry.
Why was it so rusted ?
Many years in the rust belt of the USA. These trucks and many others I have seen around the Midwest develop a lot of rust. My truck is 20 years old and has nearly 260k miles on it too.
@@PostRt Oh right.
@@65cj55 The factory metal used on these frames and the factory paint on them were both junk From knew even the recall replacement frames were the exact same junk you don't see many of these trucks in the north east or Midwest unless they didn't spend there whole life in those areas or someone has rebuilt it
@@79huddy They may not be tempered steel ?
@@65cj55 that or they were made from melted down rusty ship hulls or something the only frames I've ever seen that could have 3/8" thick scale on a frame that was only an 1/8" thick brand new
You want to fix my Tacoma?
I do not have the time to do any extra work.
Don't over grind the welds and weaken the weld. Might look pretty but not as strong.
All good. They have proper penatration. I even ran my endoscope inside to inspect.
1000 's of vids like this nothing different boring
Who watches thousands of frame repair videos?
That sounds like a boring hobby! 😆
Nice job
Thank you