Jared, I have one word for you: ferrule. Do yourself a favor and purchase a kit, complete with an assortment of ferrules, along with a hexagonal crimp tool. I prefer the insulated variety. However, non-insulated are suitable in many applications, as well. Rock solid electrical connection are always needed. And, in an RV that experiences the equivalent of an earthquake every time it moves down the road, ferrules help to ensure that stranded wire connections remain tight.
Asking myself how many times am I going to need to watch before I fully comprehend. Very detailed and much appreciated. Even if we never get to this point, its great to have the info and esp. the schematic.
I’m right there with ya lol. All Greek to me but there if I ever need to decipher it. Jared does a great job of explaining it even for electrical dummies.
Jared your skills are amazing. What seems simple to you would be incredibly difficult for many folks. Thanks for all of the information you have on your videos.
@@AllAboutRVs>> is this only for 50 Amp (split phase (120+120=240) in coming power? I do not have a transfer switch because I have to plug my 30 Amp plug into the GEN >0r< a on sight power pole. I am getting an 3000 Victron inverter/charger too.
Jared- Great Video of this three way distribution connection of the Victron Inverter. Copied your design from the previously wired manual transfer switch, in a previous video. What I like is the 240 volt panel being energized on both phases. I previously installed a 240/120 panel for future plans. I have a generator that is 240/ 120 and its nice to be able to go back and forth from Land source Shore power to the generator having a manual transfer switch. I'm connected to 30 amp 120volt most of the year. However, being ready for a RV park at 50amp 240 volt connection is awesome. Most importantly is the normal 120 volt circuit I'm connected most of the year, I have both phases energized through this selector in the #2 position. This is a great upgrade and very timely for me, as I was installing the new Victron Inverter 3000Va 120V 12 Volt DC supply with Battle Born Batteries in Lithium. I'm so pleased with AM Solar out of Portland and the Battle Born design as I believe superior in internal components for a battery. Thanks for your video's, It took some time to digest the schematic, but finally figured it out after drawing out the design myself. Maybe a bit slow on figuring out the path of currents, but this is a great design. Works flawlessly!~very much Like! Thanks again,
Finally! Information and a drawing that are very useful. I've been scouring sites looking for drawings and most are absurdly complex or way too simple. This will fit our needs exactly, even with a different number of batteries and solar panels. Thank you!
Right when I thought I had to buy that SPS (that's not even available) for $600??, now you tell me I don't have to? I'm trying to simplify my upcoming lithium system, so these videos are priceless. I dare not stub my toe, however, or I'm back to stupid!
Jared, thank you for the inverter setup idea. I've added a switch to my setup (GoPower IC2000) and now I can use the power share function (hybrid mode) on both legs. 😀Love it!
I used two multipluses on my 50 amp camper. It was a bit more expensive, but it was much easier to wire, and it let's me run everything in the camper without worrying about what I was turning on.
@@AllAboutRVs I built my own lithium batteries, including BMS. I'm running 14 kwh at 12 volts. I don't have solar yet, but I'm thinking about it. I spend most of my time with full hookups, but a little solar would be handy when we're at harvest host sites. I purchased a dc to dc charger so I can charge while driving, but I haven't gotten around to hooking it up yet.
All this went completely over my head. I'm impressed by your knowledge and your ability to modify your RV electrical system. We have a fifth wheel with a 1000 w inverter but the TV is not in that circuit.
I just wanted to say thank you very much for your great video explaining the setup, parts list was greatly appreciated, and the diagrams where of great help, I had to redraw my setup to make sure I had all parts based on my configuration and location of the panel vs onboard surge protector and the location I installed the batteries and inverter/charger. I made final connections today, and tested the system. It all works great so far, will get to do a full test in the next 2 weeks we will be camping with 30 amp service but plan on unplugging and sudo boondocking to see how long 3 100 amp hr battleborn batteries will last up.
Thank Jared...a prudent solution to the current switch I installed based on your previous wiring diagram. It was a big pain programming the microwave every time we set up the RV at a new location. Appreciate all the guidance you provided over the past few months answering all of my wiring and set up questions.
Great modification. I upgraded to a goPower IC3000, totally self-contained inverter converter auto-switch, and feeds both sides of our 50 amp panel. Also has power-sharing. Seems much simpler and a lot less wiring.
I'm going to put in the tankless hot water next. Then come winter next year when we'll be staying put for four to five months, I'll start working on a solar system for the travel trailer. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on all your videos. Take care of yourself and your family, stay safe. Safe travels to you and yours. PS, I'm Charlie.
Jared. Thank you for what you contribute to the rv community. This is a great video! I'll need to watch this 3 times to get it all. I have a smaller, but I feel really effective solar install. Thank you for going into detail into what you are doing and why you did it. This is giving me lots of ideas on how to make my install better. I feel your system is as good or better than an install if you went straight to renogy, victron or a professional installer. Thanks and good job!
@@andrewgarver2071 Most people don't want to purposefully drain their batteries when boondocking. Run the generator and then everyone including yourself can relax!
@@uhjyuff2095 for sure, run the Genny. I was just curious of Jared's thoughts about how he sized his system, not about long term off grid air conditioning.
@@andrewgarver2071 One thing I noticed is I would like to run my furnace all night and still have battery remaining. If it was super cold at night my furnace fan would draw over 100 watts continuous and at 16 hours of no sun that's 1600wh. It all depends on the temperature of course.
I don't typically run the AC on the Inverter because it is a loosing battle as we wouldn't have enough solar to keep up with it. I have run it for a short time to take the edge off but when I want to run it for any length of time I use the generator.
I am working on a semi portable LifePO4 bank. All the hardware is mounted on the battery box and can be moved with the box. Currently 400ah and I am installing a 30amp outlet off my inverter so I am not limited to 15 amp outlets and adapters. The only way to access the full power from my inverter is to hard wire that 30 amp outlet in. I will be able to use that outlet for shore power and emergency as I have 30 amp cable that reduce to three 15 amp outlets as well. I could of made things easier by making this setup more permanent for my camper but i wanted to be able to move it around and not just for my RV.
I am using 3000W 12v to 220v pure sine inverter for power and also I am using a battery charger at night from the same inverter to charged the battery.The battery is maintaining constant voltage.Recycled power.
I happy my 2000 Monaco came prepped with most everything I needed. I just added solar and changed to a MPPT controller and everything works great. I don't have a passthrough inverter/charger but I will go that way when/if the current on dies. Thanks for the video. Nice work as always.
When I saw that you purchased a Reflection very similar to ours, I was so excited!! I knew these kinds of videos would come eventually, making it SOOOO much easier for me to do mods to ours. THANK YOU!!!!
Im not sure if you still see the comments but if so i wanted to tell you what i have going on. I have a 3000 watt hybrid inverter with a camper female 30 amp plug on the ac output with camper plugged into it. I have another 4000 watt low frequency inverter thats for the minisplit and microwave. I have 8 235 watt panels that i ground deploy with tilt stands. Im using 24 nissan leaf modules for my battery at the moment but hopefully i can upgrade that soon to a 30 kw lifepo4 bank. I am currently running my panels thru the hybrid inverter solar charger. Ive bought another 100 amp charge controller and im wanting another 10 or 12 panels in the near future. Id like to make a video soon to show people what ive put together. Thanks for the videos qnd qll the good info on your builds
VERY nicely done ! I'm a DIY kinda guy but I am a visual learner. Really like seeing it, then the schematic and then the actual again. I'm waiting for you to do a mini nuclear version with a cooling tower next...
Yep. About 4 seconds into the video and hearing about parallels put me in the fight, flight or freeze mode. I froze with the deer in the headlight look. I have to find a 3rd grade book on this subject and start there. Vocab words to learn: inverter. converter, multiplug, internal transfer switch, parallels, EMS whatchamacallit.
😳🤪 schematic did help some! The hybrid feature did catch my attention though. Being newbies to RVing and having a 30A RV I quickly learned from my Hughes watchdog that a 30 amp rig can draw well over 30 amps depending on what is on or being powered at any given time! I was surprised to learn our microwave actually draws more amps than the 15k btu AC even on a 90 degree day🤯
Hey Jared, I’m confused. I see you have a 400 amp fuse on the 4/0 cable. Everything I read says a 4/0 cable is only good for around 250 A. I also asked because I just had a 4/0 cable seriously overheat and melt my fuse holder that was holding a 400 amp fuse & the fuse didn’t melt. How does this work on your system? I’m planning to convert my solar system with mostly separate components into one that uses the VicTron multi plus so I appreciate your diagrams and such.
Another great video Jared. I waste a lot of time watching solar/battery videos as we have no need for it since we only stay in rv parks but I love learning about it anyway.
Now I remember where I have seen you before........you're Doc Brown from Back To The Future movies!!! I can't believe your did all that without any duct tape. Great video, now I need to figure out how to translate it. :)
I’ve used those to connect 240V AC outside my home. They amazing and designed for wet areas. I have them for two 50A circuits for charging our cars. EVSEs are outside and these plugs make connecting wires together for thicker gauge wire simple.
I was very glad to see you kept and reused, and upgraded, your solar set up! I just can't understand how several of the UA-camrs we follow, thinking of you KYD, and Less Junk More Journey, could "potentially" be spending thousands of dollars for solar only to let it go with their often traded RVs, only to spend thousands more and do it all over! It seems like a good system is around and over $11,000 dollars OR MORE, so why waste it all? We're getting our system installed in June and for the cost, it stays if we ever sell that 5th wheel! I'm hoping our installer will be able to utilize our "wired for solar" Jayco as it has the same roof panel connection already installed in ours as you have in your Grand Design.
The prevailing suggestion from Lithium battery manufacturers and installation services is that the leads from each battery in a bank should be equal length to the bus bas bar or collection point.
Great video as always....Now I need to go back to school to get an electrical engineering degree so I can follow you on that pretty graphic chart you got there.
It looks like you are bringing in 24v (series connection) from the panels to the MPPT then 12v to the batteries, assuming 12v batteries? I don't quite get the shore power connection. Mine goes from shore power connection through the surge protector directly to the Inverter / charger. This gives me up to 50A on Legs 1 & 2. Then leaving the inverter to the converter panel. In my trailer leg 2 just dead ends for a future AC, leaving the trailer to run off of leg 1. The Multiplus acts as a transfer switch between battery and shore power, and is seamless. Your diagram looks like you essentially bypassed the 3 position switch. I agree with the location of the surge protector, this covers all power coming into the trailer. Anyhow, thank you for your videos, I do find them informative.
Great video and diagram. The only part I don’t quite understand is the need for the manual 3-way switch behind the feed to the breaker box. If the Multiplus is in Invert/ Hybrid mode, it will dynamically detect and switch when it detects a connection to shore power/generator vs battery only (invert). It will only draw power from the battery bank if the shore power is insufficient for the demand. Any power in excess of the demand charges the bank. So why do you need/want to manually switch between shore 50amp and the battery bank/inverter? Just seems like you can leave it in hybrid mode and let the Multiplus do its thing. That said, I’m sure there is something I’m missing. Thanks in advance.
Your Victron Inverter/Charger combined with your solar controller/charger looks very nice. Does the Inverter/Charger have an input to connect the RV's alternator to charge while driving? I didn't see this on your wiring diagram.
It took me several looks at the video to fully understand what was going on with the switch and both legs of the 50 amp input. It wasn’t super clear which contacts were being closed in positions “1” and “2”. It would seem that you would have to make sure you position it in position “1” before plugging in to 50 amp shore power which I think means you will lose power to half of the RV power panel temporarily - or am I missing something? My installed power monitor for shore power delays connecting the RV for about 2 minutes before it connects the breaker panel, so for me, that would delay it more. I just got a 28BH last July and am throughly enjoying watching your upgrade journey. I definitely want to add a system like this. Thanks much for the excellent video!
Great video Jared! Could you please explain the proper connections of the solar control lines,solar lines and the inv line that you replaced the inline fuse. The whole control line thing is wigging me out. I thought +/- solar comes down ties into pm on the controller and then battery connections…. …thanks
Jared - one thing that is never truly discussed in regard to these solar back up systems is the amount of hours (usage) of on board battery systems. You have 315 amp hours (so it looks) how does that convert to amount of power available when the sun has gone down in reference to appliances being used? Hours of available usage. I always wonder give the season and what is operating fulltime (like the refrigerator, water heater, etc.). Thank you for posting your video - quite informative!
Most people just do an energy audit and then determine how many watt hours of battery they want for backup. For me I would want at least 2 days or 48 hours of no charging before my batteries need to be recharged. You will be surprised with what the energy audit says, I know I was. Time to get all energy saver lights and appliances because otherwise I need a lot of batteries which is expensive.
Here is how I like to figure out how much you need/want/use ua-cam.com/video/WXtp5F4Z0aI/v-deo.html as a reference I don't limit the family to what they can use when the sun goes down and usually we are down 90 to a 100 amp hours by the time the sun is up so we can catch up with solar the next day.
Another beauty of solar systems is that you can always add more capacity to the system. Start with 2-3 100AH batteries and perhaps 400w of solar, then add more if needed. You may need to upgrade fuse sizes as you go, but will be minimal cost. Do go with larger cable for the max system size you expect to go to. I currently have 3 Battleborn batteries (300AH total) and 400w of solar on the RV I purchased used. I am adding one more battery (400AH total) and 440w (840w total) with a new Multiplus inverter. What I have seen, the general rule is 200w solar for every 100AH battery. I've done a bit of research and seen many videos including all of Jared's. His are very well done and explained very well. Some of the other RV Vlogs just show off their system that someone else installs and they really don't have a clue of what they have and why. Brian from RVwith Tito is also very informative.
Thank you Jared for all you have shared. I am following your setup using selector switch for my 50 amp trailer using only one 3000/120 12v MutiPlus. QUESTIONS: Why must the neutral leg on a 50 amp split phase setup, switch position 1, only go directly to and through the MultiPlus before going to the common neutral bus in the RV breaker box? This requires the MultiPlus to be ON and all return current from line 1&2 must pass back through the single neutral line in the MultiPlus. I assume the MulitPlus senses and operates off the input current from line 1 but the return current in the neutral line is not the same. The neutral line current is the difference between the current in line 1 and line 2 because they are 180 degrees out of phase. I would also assume the MultiPlus does not look at or care what the neutral line current phase or current flow is which is variable and different than line 1 current and may be a different phase if line 2 current is greater than line 1. There should be no problem with this arrangement and the neutral leg current will never exceed 50 amps however, why can’t the neutral leg be bonded at the breaker box before boing to the MultiPlus? This would allow line 2 current to take the path of least resistance from the common neutral in the breaker box back to source rather than return through the MultiPlus. This would also allow line 2 to power half of the breaker box even if the MultiPlus is OFF or out of service. I assume this would also work for the 30 amp setup, switch position 2 with the majority of neutral current returning to source from the neutral bus rather than all through the MultiPlus.
Great info Jared, great video too, got a quick question for you: we wanted to set something like this up in our new Wildwood trailer which will be our off-grid home for the next year until we build, but it's beyond the scope of our RV dealer and I'm not quite ready to take on this project with a brand new camper. Also a lack of space to fit stuff - our only storage area is directly under the bed and probably not a great place for the inverter and all the electronics. So options right now are to build something like this in a shed and plug directly into a 30 amp plug (more expensive and complicated but better power) OR get a cheaper inverter with 15 amp plugs and plug into the inverter with a 30-15 amp adapter so we have hot plugs in the camper for laptops and small accessories until we get a more robust system. Do you see a problem with that setup? Obviously we'll use the gennie for microwave and A/C. Inverter will be connected to 2 x Battle Born Game Changers (540 amp hours) so lots of juice to work with. Thanks in advance, love the vids.
Getting ready to order my supplies and discovered Victron is releasing the multiplus II. no need for the switch or any bypass. 50 amps (two hot) in and two hot out.
Jared,, where'd the diagram of the manual switch with the jumpers go? Am I to understand that the new diagram provides the same result? Meaning, position 1 gets me 50 amp shore power to the panel, and position 2 allows powershare when I plug in my Honda 2000 to the shore receptacle.
I helped a guy with this a couple weeks ago and my guess is you might have the same issue. His problem was finding where the leakage was. Everything plugged into an outlet or appliance leaks a little fault current to ground. Once it goes over 5mA it will trip the GFCI you are plugged into and the Multi might have just tipped the scales. For him he found the biggest culprit to be his water heater, he unplugged it and used it on propane when they were on a 15 amp GFI until he replaced the electric element. The key is tracking down what is a causing the leak and fix it. We used this setup on a 15 amp GFCI and had no problems.
Jared this is a very good video and diagram. I am researching inverters. Will the GP IC-3000 give me the same results as the Victron Multiplus utilizing the connection scheme outlined in this video and diagram. The smart selector switches are hard to come-by right now. Thanks in advance
Hi, your videos have really help us in many ways. Thank you. I will be upgrading our RV from 30a to 50a. I am interested in purchasing the multiplus 2, a GX Touch 50 display and other necessary components. My question is, am I able to use a portable generator like the GENMAX GM9000iED? Do I need a specific generator? Aside from monitoring my system, my goal is to also have this system automatically turn on and turn off the portable generator when necessary.
So this hybrid mode for split phase will only work if you have shore power or generator? I guess I was thinking you were squeezing 240v split phase off of just your battery. So the only other added benefit is that when you have 50a available it will also charge your batteries.
Thanks Jarad for another great video. I have a similar system and love the Victron Inverter. I have the AM Solar smart transfer switch which allows me to power both sides of the panel with the inverter and it works great. Now my problem is the auto transfer switch between the generator and shore power make a loud humming when we are plugged into shore power. I don't really need an auto transfer switch since we only use the generator when is been cloudy for a few days and we need to charge the batteries. Do you think the switch you are using would work to replace our auto transfer switch from shore to generator?
You can replace your auto transfer switch with a manual transfer switch, like the change over switch in this video, but when working with high voltage AC wiring I would recommend using a licensed electrician.
Jared, this is a great set up for the "fancy" Victron hybrid inverter, but I just have a standard no-frills inverter that I just want to connect to the shore power line for the limited boondocking that I do. I don't see a video for that one. Can you do one for us DYI boondockers on a budget.
Jared, another great video. I was really sold on the previous video with the Smart Phase Selector, kind of fool proof and you don't have to think much except maybe set your Multiplus amp setting for shore power amp rating. My question is on the system you set up here with the simpler switch, if you had the choice without the additional cost, would you do the SPS install? I understand the SPS transfer speed is more of a break-before-make, and the Multiplus with the switch is almost bumpless, but would that be much of an issue? I am thinking of when you are on shore power, you will probably have the Multiplus selected to Charge mode only, and really just go to inverter mode when you are set up at a boondocking site when power is required, then maybe turn off the inverter at bedtime when you are not using 120v loads.
I prefer the manual switch. For me it is a little more reliable and less to go wrong. I know a few people that are taking out the SPS after failure and going with the manual switch.
I have the same charge controller. Right now I wish my camper was solar ready. My two panels are sitting on the ground because I am dragging my feet on installing them on the roof. I know how I want to route the wires, I just hate the thought of drilling that hole in the roof.
I have a 174 jayco with solar panels. I use 30 amp. I would like my ac and plugs to work. I don’t need a microwave and don’t have a tv. Would I need a soft start on my ac? Which components would you recommend I use?
Jared, great content. I'm about half way through installing a similar setup and reference your video and plans often. Both are helping me immensely. Thanks for continuing to provide this type of content with enough detail for DIYers to follow along on our own projects.
I have a question on possible backfeeding the main. If the grid/generator is disconnected, the inverter should supply the AC to the RV. Does it ever backfeed through the plug cable? From what I saw in Victron videos, it is always probing the AC input for phase and voltage. When the battery/inverter matches, it will energize a relay to connect. Victron community states that a backfeed could be possible if there are motors/compressors that could send back power when shutting down. Do you see any voltage on the plug when it's disconnected, and the inverter is powering off the batteries? I love the power boost feature and think that the backfeed should be minor, or only happen if the relay sticks closed
I have a question: Your diagram includes a transfer switch after a generator (for those who use a generator). Is this actually necessary if you are only using one source of "shore power?" I.e., I'm not plugging in a generator and shore power, I would only use either/or. The transfer switch in the Multiplus should be enough to manage power input within the system, correct? I only have one shore power outlet and since I'll be dry camping, I'm using a generator as my sole source to charge the batteries until I can install the solar system. Thanks for any advice! Great video. Edit: I connect a surge protector directly to any shore/power generator connection, and ensure the generator is grounded properly when using it.
The mc4 connection at the roof are rated safely to or up 30 amps so why not. That’s assuming the RV manufacture used solid copper Wire. If he changed his parallel series config or added a panel or higher wattage panels he’d still be fine.
I did this exact install and everything seems to be working but I don't see what the manual switch does. You say use position 1 when connected to 50 Amp and position 2 when boon-docking, however I don't see any difference in position 1,0 or 2 when on shore power or on batteries. What am I missing?
Great video! Just purchased a GD Reflection and was wondering how to set up an inverter. Have the Mutiplus and solar MPPTs on my boat. Just need to do the same on the RV. Love the schematic! Do you do installs..lol
Thanks Jared! Your videos are very helpful. I am going victron with 3 battleborn batteries. My question is about what to do when storing my camper for a few months. Should I turn off the main battery disconnect or let the solar CC keep it charged? I am worried about the placement of the switch being deep inside the storage compartment and hard to get to.
Great video, thanks. I expect to duplicate your setup on our 303 RLS. As I believe someone else commented, it would be helpful if you could post a link to the settings you used on the Multiplus.
Nice Update! Great Timing! I have the Victron Multiplus sitting in my office along with 9.6kw (750Ah at 12v) of LiFePO4 batteries that will be going into our RV as soon as the weather warms up (this is Texas, next week?) I was thinking the same thing, why not connect the "primary leg" through the multiplus, allowing it to be connected all the time, run the second leg (as needed, direct or joined). Question about the Inverter - I was thinking of installing it in my primary pass through storage under the master bed (external access, both sides). Should I provide some sort of ventilation to the cabin? I haven't even powered it up yet, does it get noisy at full load? Thanks! I look forward to more videos!
I installed 2 multipluses on the wall in the basement, which is right under the bed. Sometimes I can hear them buzz when they're both charging or discharging very hard, but it's not too bad. You certainly can't hear them when the AC is on. :) I've also got a refrigerator in the basement. I did an experiment running both ACs and the fridge off of the inverters during the summer, and it did get a bit hotter in there than I was comfortable with. I can monitor the temp of my batteries remotely, so when it started getting near 100, I opened both compartment doors.
@@markseamans4682 No, I didn't need a fan, but I really only ran that one test. Most of the time we're hooked up to 50 amps, so everything is running in stand by.
Jared, I have one word for you: ferrule. Do yourself a favor and purchase a kit, complete with an assortment of ferrules, along with a hexagonal crimp tool. I prefer the insulated variety. However, non-insulated are suitable in many applications, as well.
Rock solid electrical connection are always needed. And, in an RV that experiences the equivalent of an earthquake every time it moves down the road, ferrules help to ensure that stranded wire connections remain tight.
Asking myself how many times am I going to need to watch before I fully comprehend. Very detailed and much appreciated. Even if we never get to this point, its great to have the info and esp. the schematic.
I’m right there with ya lol. All Greek to me but there if I ever need to decipher it. Jared does a great job of explaining it even for electrical dummies.
@k Killian you should check out Here Then Gone's solar Install video. One of the neatest/cleanest installs I have seen.
@@ibMoose2u You should check out Here Then Gone's solar Install video. One of the neatest/cleanest installs I have seen.
Jared your skills are amazing. What seems simple to you would be incredibly difficult for many folks. Thanks for all of the information you have on your videos.
I appreciate that! Thank you.
@@AllAboutRVs>> is this only for 50 Amp (split phase (120+120=240) in coming power?
I do not have a transfer switch because I have to plug my 30 Amp plug into the GEN >0r< a on sight power pole. I am getting an 3000 Victron inverter/charger too.
Nice layout, loved the schematic laid out, I had no problem following the setup. Like they say keep it simple.
Thank you!
Jared- Great Video of this three way distribution connection of the Victron Inverter. Copied your design from the previously wired manual transfer switch, in a previous video. What I like is the 240 volt panel being energized on both phases. I previously installed a 240/120 panel for future plans. I have a generator that is 240/ 120 and its nice to be able to go back and forth from Land source Shore power to the generator having a manual transfer switch.
I'm connected to 30 amp 120volt most of the year. However, being ready for a RV park at 50amp 240 volt connection is awesome.
Most importantly is the normal 120 volt circuit I'm connected most of the year, I have both phases energized through this selector in the #2 position. This is a great upgrade and very timely for me, as I was installing the new Victron Inverter 3000Va 120V 12 Volt DC supply with Battle Born Batteries in Lithium. I'm so pleased with AM Solar out of Portland and the Battle Born design as I believe superior in internal components for a battery. Thanks for your video's, It took some time to digest the schematic, but finally figured it out after drawing out the design myself.
Maybe a bit slow on figuring out the path of currents, but this is a great design. Works flawlessly!~very much Like!
Thanks again,
So glad you posted the diagram. I'm a rookie at this stuff and am really interested in doing something similar.
Finally! Information and a drawing that are very useful. I've been scouring sites looking for drawings and most are absurdly complex or way too simple. This will fit our needs exactly, even with a different number of batteries and solar panels. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Right when I thought I had to buy that SPS (that's not even available) for $600??, now you tell me I don't have to? I'm trying to simplify my upcoming lithium system, so these videos are priceless.
I dare not stub my toe, however, or I'm back to stupid!
I'm glad they are helping. Thanks for watching.
Jared, thank you for the inverter setup idea. I've added a switch to my setup (GoPower IC2000) and now I can use the power share function (hybrid mode) on both legs. 😀Love it!
I used two multipluses on my 50 amp camper. It was a bit more expensive, but it was much easier to wire, and it let's me run everything in the camper without worrying about what I was turning on.
I think the way you did it is great!
Great setup, How many batteries and what type did you go with for that.
@@AllAboutRVs I built my own lithium batteries, including BMS. I'm running 14 kwh at 12 volts.
I don't have solar yet, but I'm thinking about it. I spend most of my time with full hookups, but a little solar would be handy when we're at harvest host sites.
I purchased a dc to dc charger so I can charge while driving, but I haven't gotten around to hooking it up yet.
All this went completely over my head. I'm impressed by your knowledge and your ability to modify your RV electrical system. We have a fifth wheel with a 1000 w inverter but the TV is not in that circuit.
I just wanted to say thank you very much for your great video explaining the setup, parts list was greatly appreciated, and the diagrams where of great help, I had to redraw my setup to make sure I had all parts based on my configuration and location of the panel vs onboard surge protector and the location I installed the batteries and inverter/charger. I made final connections today, and tested the system. It all works great so far, will get to do a full test in the next 2 weeks we will be camping with 30 amp service but plan on unplugging and sudo boondocking to see how long 3 100 amp hr battleborn batteries will last up.
Thank Jared...a prudent solution to the current switch I installed based on your previous wiring diagram. It was a big pain programming the microwave every time we set up the RV at a new location. Appreciate all the guidance you provided over the past few months answering all of my wiring and set up questions.
Glad it helped
@@AllAboutRVs Can you also post a link on to the junction box you used in your new setup?
As usual, a most excellent and easy to understand presentation that flows nicely (no ums, ahs, or pauses).
Thank you but to be fair I do cut a few of those out in the magic of editing.
Great modification. I upgraded to a goPower IC3000, totally self-contained inverter converter auto-switch, and feeds both sides of our 50 amp panel. Also has power-sharing. Seems much simpler and a lot less wiring.
I'm going to put in the tankless hot water next. Then come winter next year when we'll be staying put for four to five months, I'll start working on a solar system for the travel trailer.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on all your videos.
Take care of yourself and your family, stay safe. Safe travels to you and yours.
PS, I'm Charlie.
Thanks Charlie!
Jared. Thank you for what you contribute to the rv community. This is a great video! I'll need to watch this 3 times to get it all. I have a smaller, but I feel really effective solar install. Thank you for going into detail into what you are doing and why you did it. This is giving me lots of ideas on how to make my install better. I feel your system is as good or better than an install if you went straight to renogy, victron or a professional installer. Thanks and good job!
When boondocking, for how long are you comfortable running the air conditioner without generator supplement?
@@andrewgarver2071 Most people don't want to purposefully drain their batteries when boondocking. Run the generator and then everyone including yourself can relax!
@@uhjyuff2095 for sure, run the Genny. I was just curious of Jared's thoughts about how he sized his system, not about long term off grid air conditioning.
@@andrewgarver2071 One thing I noticed is I would like to run my furnace all night and still have battery remaining. If it was super cold at night my furnace fan would draw over 100 watts continuous and at 16 hours of no sun that's 1600wh. It all depends on the temperature of course.
I don't typically run the AC on the Inverter because it is a loosing battle as we wouldn't have enough solar to keep up with it. I have run it for a short time to take the edge off but when I want to run it for any length of time I use the generator.
I am working on a semi portable LifePO4 bank. All the hardware is mounted on the battery box and can be moved with the box. Currently 400ah and I am installing a 30amp outlet off my inverter so I am not limited to 15 amp outlets and adapters. The only way to access the full power from my inverter is to hard wire that 30 amp outlet in. I will be able to use that outlet for shore power and emergency as I have 30 amp cable that reduce to three 15 amp outlets as well. I could of made things easier by making this setup more permanent for my camper but i wanted to be able to move it around and not just for my RV.
WOW WOW WOW!!! Good video... Over whelmed all in 16 minutes...
Great video. Tough to follow along in a 16 minute video but I understand wiring diagrams just fine.
Awesome video....but now I have a headache. I’m just not that smart. 😂
Keep up the great videos. 🎉🎉🎉
@ Salty Vet Adventures You should check out Here Then Gone's solar Install video. One of the neatest/cleanest installs I have seen.
Nice job God bless always enjoy your videos
I am using 3000W 12v to 220v pure sine inverter for power and also I am using a battery charger at night from the same inverter to charged the battery.The battery is maintaining constant voltage.Recycled power.
I happy my 2000 Monaco came prepped with most everything I needed. I just added solar and changed to a MPPT controller and everything works great. I don't have a passthrough inverter/charger but I will go that way when/if the current on dies. Thanks for the video. Nice work as always.
Thanks!
When I saw that you purchased a Reflection very similar to ours, I was so excited!! I knew these kinds of videos would come eventually, making it SOOOO much easier for me to do mods to ours. THANK YOU!!!!
Glad you like it , thanks for watching.
Thanks Jared, been waiting for this update and it is great. Especially enjoy the clear wiring diagram.
Glad you enjoy it! Thank you.
Im not sure if you still see the comments but if so i wanted to tell you what i have going on. I have a 3000 watt hybrid inverter with a camper female 30 amp plug on the ac output with camper plugged into it. I have another 4000 watt low frequency inverter thats for the minisplit and microwave. I have 8 235 watt panels that i ground deploy with tilt stands. Im using 24 nissan leaf modules for my battery at the moment but hopefully i can upgrade that soon to a 30 kw lifepo4 bank. I am currently running my panels thru the hybrid inverter solar charger. Ive bought another 100 amp charge controller and im wanting another 10 or 12 panels in the near future. Id like to make a video soon to show people what ive put together. Thanks for the videos qnd qll the good info on your builds
Polaris lugs come in real handy I sometimes put a wrap of electrical tape to keep caps on Sometimes their not that snug
Good tip!
VERY nicely done ! I'm a DIY kinda guy but I am a visual learner. Really like seeing it, then the schematic and then the actual again. I'm waiting for you to do a mini nuclear version with a cooling tower next...
Now you’re taking, I’ll get started on it.
I'd wanna see that one too!
Very informative video Jared, however, I feel like I need to go to engineering school to do this project 😏
I had to take a couple Advil after this. But I still loved watching it and feel like I learned something...I have to hire someone for this! 🤣
Yeah, clear as mud.
If you do enough research and watch enough videos I'm sure you're more then capable of doing it.
Yep. About 4 seconds into the video and hearing about parallels put me in the fight, flight or freeze mode. I froze with the deer in the headlight look. I have to find a 3rd grade book on this subject and start there. Vocab words to learn: inverter. converter, multiplug, internal transfer switch, parallels, EMS whatchamacallit.
@Robert Burns You should check out Here Then Gone's solar Install video. One of the neatest/cleanest installs I have seen.
😳🤪 schematic did help some! The hybrid feature did catch my attention though. Being newbies to RVing and having a 30A RV I quickly learned from my Hughes watchdog that a 30 amp rig can draw well over 30 amps depending on what is on or being powered at any given time! I was surprised to learn our microwave actually draws more amps than the 15k btu AC even on a 90 degree day🤯
The power watchdog is a great tool.
Happy Birthday Jared 🎂
Thanks
Hey Jared, I’m confused. I see you have a 400 amp fuse on the 4/0 cable. Everything I read says a 4/0 cable is only good for around 250 A. I also asked because I just had a 4/0 cable seriously overheat and melt my fuse holder that was holding a 400 amp fuse & the fuse didn’t melt. How does this work on your system?
I’m planning to convert my solar system with mostly separate components into one that uses the VicTron multi plus so I appreciate your diagrams and such.
Very nice setup again cheers keep the mods coming
Thanks, will do!
Good stuff sir! Can't thank you enough for all the links! Will make sure to order from your Amazon page.
Hey Jared new here to your channel and to RV-ing thank you for the nuggets you share sincerely Corey.
Another great video Jared. I waste a lot of time watching solar/battery videos as we have no need for it since we only stay in rv parks but I love learning about it anyway.
Now I remember where I have seen you before........you're Doc Brown from Back To The Future movies!!! I can't believe your did all that without any duct tape. Great video, now I need to figure out how to translate it. :)
I wear the hat to conceal the hair. ; )
Glad to see you keep working on it and keeping us in the loop. Like the idea of the switch (bought one) since our first SPS was defective.
Great video, thanks for the tip on the 3-way switch. I’ll be making that change for sure!
I’ve used those to connect 240V AC outside my home. They amazing and designed for wet areas. I have them for two 50A circuits for charging our cars. EVSEs are outside and these plugs make connecting wires together for thicker gauge wire simple.
I'm sticking to 30 amp :) :) :) based on your website diagram, it seems easier to install the solar, multiplus, dc/dc charger, etc.
Man, so cool. You guys are just building the ultimate rv
Thank you.
Very interesting...... i have no idea what you were talking about-lol. One day ill figure this whole solar thing out.
I was very glad to see you kept and reused, and upgraded, your solar set up! I just can't understand how several of the UA-camrs we follow, thinking of you KYD, and Less Junk More Journey, could "potentially" be spending thousands of dollars for solar only to let it go with their often traded RVs, only to spend thousands more and do it all over! It seems like a good system is around and over $11,000 dollars OR MORE, so why waste it all? We're getting our system installed in June and for the cost, it stays if we ever sell that 5th wheel! I'm hoping our installer will be able to utilize our "wired for solar" Jayco as it has the same roof panel connection already installed in ours as you have in your Grand Design.
Thanks for the great videos Jared!
Hey a quick note to the breaker for your solar panels. It’s rate up to 48v and the volt you get 60v from your solar panels
The prevailing suggestion from Lithium battery manufacturers and installation services is that the leads from each battery in a bank should be equal length to the bus bas bar or collection point.
Great video as always....Now I need to go back to school to get an electrical engineering degree so I can follow you on that pretty graphic chart you got there.
It looks like you are bringing in 24v (series connection) from the panels to the MPPT then 12v to the batteries, assuming 12v batteries? I don't quite get the shore power connection. Mine goes from shore power connection through the surge protector directly to the Inverter / charger. This gives me up to 50A on Legs 1 & 2. Then leaving the inverter to the converter panel. In my trailer leg 2 just dead ends for a future AC, leaving the trailer to run off of leg 1. The Multiplus acts as a transfer switch between battery and shore power, and is seamless. Your diagram looks like you essentially bypassed the 3 position switch. I agree with the location of the surge protector, this covers all power coming into the trailer. Anyhow, thank you for your videos, I do find them informative.
Victron came out with a new split phase inverter, MultiPlus-II 2x 120V. It’s designed to power two banks with 120 volts right out of the box.👍
Great video and diagram. The only part I don’t quite understand is the need for the manual 3-way switch behind the feed to the breaker box. If the Multiplus is in Invert/ Hybrid mode, it will dynamically detect and switch when it detects a connection to shore power/generator vs battery only (invert). It will only draw power from the battery bank if the shore power is insufficient for the demand. Any power in excess of the demand charges the bank. So why do you need/want to manually switch between shore 50amp and the battery bank/inverter? Just seems like you can leave it in hybrid mode and let the Multiplus do its thing. That said, I’m sure there is something I’m missing. Thanks in advance.
Your Victron Inverter/Charger combined with your solar controller/charger looks very nice. Does the Inverter/Charger have an input to connect the RV's alternator to charge while driving? I didn't see this on your wiring diagram.
It took me several looks at the video to fully understand what was going on with the switch and both legs of the 50 amp input. It wasn’t super clear which contacts were being closed in positions “1” and “2”. It would seem that you would have to make sure you position it in position “1” before plugging in to 50 amp shore power which I think means you will lose power to half of the RV power panel temporarily - or am I missing something? My installed power monitor for shore power delays connecting the RV for about 2 minutes before it connects the breaker panel, so for me, that would delay it more. I just got a 28BH last July and am throughly enjoying watching your upgrade journey. I definitely want to add a system like this. Thanks much for the excellent video!
Damn, I never knew you needed to be an electrician to convert to a solar setup.
@Trainy You should check out Here Then Gone's solar Install video. One of the neatest/cleanest installs I have seen.
Very clean setup
Amazing video. Thanks Jared!
Thanks Jared. Cathy & Harry
"3-way plug" is a Polaris connector.
Great video Jared!
Could you please explain the proper connections of the solar control lines,solar lines and the inv line that you replaced the inline fuse. The whole control line thing is wigging me out. I thought +/- solar comes down ties into pm on the controller and then battery connections…. …thanks
Jared - one thing that is never truly discussed in regard to these solar back up systems is the amount of hours (usage) of on board battery systems. You have 315 amp hours (so it looks) how does that convert to amount of power available when the sun has gone down in reference to appliances being used? Hours of available usage. I always wonder give the season and what is operating fulltime (like the refrigerator, water heater, etc.). Thank you for posting your video - quite informative!
Most people just do an energy audit and then determine how many watt hours of battery they want for backup. For me I would want at least 2 days or 48 hours of no charging before my batteries need to be recharged. You will be surprised with what the energy audit says, I know I was. Time to get all energy saver lights and appliances because otherwise I need a lot of batteries which is expensive.
Here is how I like to figure out how much you need/want/use ua-cam.com/video/WXtp5F4Z0aI/v-deo.html
as a reference I don't limit the family to what they can use when the sun goes down and usually we are down 90 to a 100 amp hours by the time the sun is up so we can catch up with solar the next day.
Another beauty of solar systems is that you can always add more capacity to the system. Start with 2-3 100AH batteries and perhaps 400w of solar, then add more if needed. You may need to upgrade fuse sizes as you go, but will be minimal cost. Do go with larger cable for the max system size you expect to go to. I currently have 3 Battleborn batteries (300AH total) and 400w of solar on the RV I purchased used. I am adding one more battery (400AH total) and 440w (840w total) with a new Multiplus inverter. What I have seen, the general rule is 200w solar for every 100AH battery. I've done a bit of research and seen many videos including all of Jared's. His are very well done and explained very well. Some of the other RV Vlogs just show off their system that someone else installs and they really don't have a clue of what they have and why. Brian from RVwith Tito is also very informative.
Thank you Jared for all you have shared. I am following your setup using selector switch for my 50 amp trailer using only one 3000/120 12v MutiPlus.
QUESTIONS: Why must the neutral leg on a 50 amp split phase setup, switch position 1, only go directly to and through the MultiPlus before going to the common neutral bus in the RV breaker box? This requires the MultiPlus to be ON and all return current from line 1&2 must pass back through the single neutral line in the MultiPlus. I assume the MulitPlus senses and operates off the input current from line 1 but the return current in the neutral line is not the same. The neutral line current is the difference between the current in line 1 and line 2 because they are 180 degrees out of phase. I would also assume the MultiPlus does not look at or care what the neutral line current phase or current flow is which is variable and different than line 1 current and may be a different phase if line 2 current is greater than line 1. There should be no problem with this arrangement and the neutral leg current will never exceed 50 amps however, why can’t the neutral leg be bonded at the breaker box before boing to the MultiPlus? This would allow line 2 current to take the path of least resistance from the common neutral in the breaker box back to source rather than return through the MultiPlus. This would also allow line 2 to power half of the breaker box even if the MultiPlus is OFF or out of service. I assume this would also work for the 30 amp setup, switch position 2 with the majority of neutral current returning to source from the neutral bus rather than all through the MultiPlus.
Did you happen to try this?
As always, excellent information. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I’ll just call you when I’m ready.
🤣🤣🤣
Great info Jared, great video too, got a quick question for you: we wanted to set something like this up in our new Wildwood trailer which will be our off-grid home for the next year until we build, but it's beyond the scope of our RV dealer and I'm not quite ready to take on this project with a brand new camper. Also a lack of space to fit stuff - our only storage area is directly under the bed and probably not a great place for the inverter and all the electronics. So options right now are to build something like this in a shed and plug directly into a 30 amp plug (more expensive and complicated but better power) OR get a cheaper inverter with 15 amp plugs and plug into the inverter with a 30-15 amp adapter so we have hot plugs in the camper for laptops and small accessories until we get a more robust system. Do you see a problem with that setup? Obviously we'll use the gennie for microwave and A/C. Inverter will be connected to 2 x Battle Born Game Changers (540 amp hours) so lots of juice to work with. Thanks in advance, love the vids.
Great video and diagram!
Thank you!
Getting ready to order my supplies and discovered Victron is releasing the multiplus II. no need for the switch or any bypass. 50 amps (two hot) in and two hot out.
Jared,, where'd the diagram of the manual switch with the jumpers go?
Am I to understand that the new diagram provides the same result?
Meaning, position 1 gets me 50 amp shore power to the panel, and position 2 allows powershare when I plug in my Honda 2000 to the shore receptacle.
Easier is better...Thanks Jarrad. bill in Florida
Thanks Bill.
I'm so confused about the Automatic Switch, why are you not using that now? Also the "to solar control" near the bottom, can you please explain that?
I just finished doing this exact setup and now when I plug in my 5th wheel to a gfi outlet it pops the gfi. Any tips to fix this?!
I helped a guy with this a couple weeks ago and my guess is you might have the same issue. His problem was finding where the leakage was. Everything plugged into an outlet or appliance leaks a little fault current to ground. Once it goes over 5mA it will trip the GFCI you are plugged into and the Multi might have just tipped the scales. For him he found the biggest culprit to be his water heater, he unplugged it and used it on propane when they were on a 15 amp GFI until he replaced the electric element. The key is tracking down what is a causing the leak and fix it. We used this setup on a 15 amp GFCI and had no problems.
Jared this is a very good video and diagram. I am researching inverters. Will the GP IC-3000 give me the same results as the Victron Multiplus utilizing the
connection scheme outlined in this video and diagram. The smart selector switches are hard to come-by right now.
Thanks in advance
Hi, your videos have really help us in many ways. Thank you. I will be upgrading our RV from 30a to 50a. I am interested in purchasing the multiplus 2, a GX Touch 50 display and other necessary components. My question is, am I able to use a portable generator like the GENMAX GM9000iED? Do I need a specific generator? Aside from monitoring my system, my goal is to also have this system automatically turn on and turn off the portable generator when necessary.
So this hybrid mode for split phase will only work if you have shore power or generator? I guess I was thinking you were squeezing 240v split phase off of just your battery. So the only other added benefit is that when you have 50a available it will also charge your batteries.
Is there a way for us to put the TV on the inverter circuit so we can watch it without having to turn on a generator? Thanks
I see your DC to DC Renogy in you bay. How do you run the cables to your truck? Through the pin box? How did you get them to it? Thanks!
Thanks Jarad for another great video. I have a similar system and love the Victron Inverter. I have the AM Solar smart transfer switch which allows me to power both sides of the panel with the inverter and it works great. Now my problem is the auto transfer switch between the generator and shore power make a loud humming when we are plugged into shore power. I don't really need an auto transfer switch since we only use the generator when is been cloudy for a few days and we need to charge the batteries. Do you think the switch you are using would work to replace our auto transfer switch from shore to generator?
You can replace your auto transfer switch with a manual transfer switch, like the change over switch in this video, but when working with high voltage AC wiring I would recommend using a licensed electrician.
Yes this switch would be rated to be used in that way.
Jared, this is a great set up for the "fancy" Victron hybrid inverter, but I just have a standard no-frills inverter that I just want to connect to the shore power line for the limited boondocking that I do. I don't see a video for that one. Can you do one for us DYI boondockers on a budget.
Jared, another great video. I was really sold on the previous video with the Smart Phase Selector, kind of fool proof and you don't have to think much except maybe set your Multiplus amp setting for shore power amp rating. My question is on the system you set up here with the simpler switch, if you had the choice without the additional cost, would you do the SPS install?
I understand the SPS transfer speed is more of a break-before-make, and the Multiplus with the switch is almost bumpless, but would that be much of an issue? I am thinking of when you are on shore power, you will probably have the Multiplus selected to Charge mode only, and really just go to inverter mode when you are set up at a boondocking site when power is required, then maybe turn off the inverter at bedtime when you are not using 120v loads.
I prefer the manual switch. For me it is a little more reliable and less to go wrong. I know a few people that are taking out the SPS after failure and going with the manual switch.
I have the same charge controller. Right now I wish my camper was solar ready. My two panels are sitting on the ground because I am dragging my feet on installing them on the roof. I know how I want to route the wires, I just hate the thought of drilling that hole in the roof.
I have a 174 jayco with solar panels. I use 30 amp. I would like my ac and plugs to work. I don’t need a microwave and don’t have a tv. Would I need a soft start on my ac? Which components would you recommend I use?
Jared, great content. I'm about half way through installing a similar setup and reference your video and plans often. Both are helping me immensely. Thanks for continuing to provide this type of content with enough detail for DIYers to follow along on our own projects.
Thank you glad it helped.
Do I still need a 12v blade fuse box for my individual 12v components?
I have a question on possible backfeeding the main. If the grid/generator is disconnected, the inverter should supply the AC to the RV. Does it ever backfeed through the plug cable? From what I saw in Victron videos, it is always probing the AC input for phase and voltage. When the battery/inverter matches, it will energize a relay to connect. Victron community states that a backfeed could be possible if there are motors/compressors that could send back power when shutting down. Do you see any voltage on the plug when it's disconnected, and the inverter is powering off the batteries? I love the power boost feature and think that the backfeed should be minor, or only happen if the relay sticks closed
I am generally curious as to why you opted for a 12 volt inverter system vs a 24 volt if you’re tying directly into the RV panel.
I have a question: Your diagram includes a transfer switch after a generator (for those who use a generator). Is this actually necessary if you are only using one source of "shore power?" I.e., I'm not plugging in a generator and shore power, I would only use either/or. The transfer switch in the Multiplus should be enough to manage power input within the system, correct? I only have one shore power outlet and since I'll be dry camping, I'm using a generator as my sole source to charge the batteries until I can install the solar system.
Thanks for any advice! Great video.
Edit: I connect a surge protector directly to any shore/power generator connection, and ensure the generator is grounded properly when using it.
Question about the L1 to L2 bridge switch, should shore power be off prior to switching from 1 - 50a to 2 - 30/15a?
60 volt/11amps feed from the roof in to a 42 volt/30 amp max. breaker?
Was just about to say the same thing. Good eye!
The mc4 connection at the roof are rated safely to or up 30 amps so why not. That’s assuming the RV manufacture used solid copper
Wire.
If he changed his parallel series config or added a panel or higher wattage panels he’d still be fine.
Thank you for the detailed post! Do you have any detailed resources dedicated to proper grounding for a system like this?
It turned a fully automatic system into a manual switch. Sub Panel keeps it fully automatic & is not that hard to install
I did this exact install and everything seems to be working but I don't see what the manual switch does. You say use position 1 when connected to 50 Amp and position 2 when boon-docking, however I don't see any difference in position 1,0 or 2 when on shore power or on batteries. What am I missing?
Installing this today for a customer, interested to see how it’s going tonwoek
Great video! Just purchased a GD Reflection and was wondering how to set up an inverter. Have the Mutiplus and solar MPPTs on my boat. Just need to do the same on the RV. Love the schematic! Do you do installs..lol
Thanks Jared! Your videos are very helpful. I am going victron with 3 battleborn batteries. My question is about what to do when storing my camper for a few months. Should I turn off the main battery disconnect or let the solar CC keep it charged? I am worried about the placement of the switch being deep inside the storage compartment and hard to get to.
Not sure I understand the purpose of the transfer switch? Doesn’t the inverter control what power comes and goes where?
Great video, thanks. I expect to duplicate your setup on our 303 RLS. As I believe someone else commented, it would be helpful if you could post a link to the settings you used on the Multiplus.
Nice Update! Great Timing! I have the Victron Multiplus sitting in my office along with 9.6kw (750Ah at 12v) of LiFePO4 batteries that will be going into our RV as soon as the weather warms up (this is Texas, next week?) I was thinking the same thing, why not connect the "primary leg" through the multiplus, allowing it to be connected all the time, run the second leg (as needed, direct or joined). Question about the Inverter - I was thinking of installing it in my primary pass through storage under the master bed (external access, both sides). Should I provide some sort of ventilation to the cabin? I haven't even powered it up yet, does it get noisy at full load? Thanks! I look forward to more videos!
I installed 2 multipluses on the wall in the basement, which is right under the bed. Sometimes I can hear them buzz when they're both charging or discharging very hard, but it's not too bad. You certainly can't hear them when the AC is on. :)
I've also got a refrigerator in the basement. I did an experiment running both ACs and the fridge off of the inverters during the summer, and it did get a bit hotter in there than I was comfortable with. I can monitor the temp of my batteries remotely, so when it started getting near 100, I opened both compartment doors.
@@mnotlyon Ah, so no fan! Great!
@@markseamans4682 No, I didn't need a fan, but I really only ran that one test. Most of the time we're hooked up to 50 amps, so everything is running in stand by.
Great idea with the connectors, however the link to the "2 way Insulated connector" goes to the incorrect connector.
Yeah it goes to the 97118 connector. However, I think you would want the 97116 connector instead.
@@lorinwyatt9814 I'm sure glad I was reading all the notes here. Had to change my order a couple times already.
Jared, off topic question. Can you wire solar panels in series (24v) to Renogy mppt charge controller to charge 12v battery bank?
I could really use your advise on a new solar rv install How can we connect?