Update #2 -- 12/18/24 -- Remember: I'm no mechanic. So throughout this overheating saga I was under the impression that my radiator was very clean. Well... turns out that the visible cooling fins inside the engine bay are the AC condenser, not actually the radiator itself. You can laugh at me, it's okay. There's about a half inch gap between the AC condenser and radiator and the radiator is not really visible because of a foam strip on the rad support bracket. So, after removing that foam and getting a peek at the radiator through the tiny gap it looks atrocious. I'm fully convinced as of this moment that the issue is a dirty radiator (not condenser) because it makes sense with every single symptom so far. My solution will be to replace the radiator because I'm at 200k on the original and it feels like a good time for preventative maintenance. However, I will be cleaning and keeping or selling the old one because it appear to be in near perfect shape with no leaks. The amount of dirt I mention at 5:21 and 11:02 should have told me something. Update #1 -- 6/5/24 one month after this video -- I was hoping this story was over... but today in a parking lot, a sunny 85º day, the engine temp started slowly creeping upward to about 2/3rds on the gauge and with one quick loop around the parking lot the temperature dropped again no problem. Few minutes home, pop the hood & crawlin' under, I see no leaking on the engine to indicate water pump seeping, coolant overflow levels are perfect so it's not inhaling it (head gasket) &/or leaking it bc there's also no leaking around radiator seams or anything. Truly mysterious still, a bit bummed. Only two other symptoms I can suspect as real possibilities right now: my coolant is near due for change (but I don't think that's the issue) oorrr thermostat is partially failing? It doesn't seem likely or common, but a sticky thermostat spring could be the culprit here to explain it being intermittent. Because it's so affordable & easy I'll go for the thermostat first and continue to monitor. If that doesn't solve it then I'll probably do water pump and no matter what I'll do coolant flush soon anyhow.
Any update? I have an aftermarket CFS double core aluminum radiator, new URD 170 thermostat and a fresh flush... And I'm supercharged. On a hot 100+ day, idling for extended period of time, mine also heats up to 3/4 . And at stoplights my ac warms up ... Clutch is my next swap
@@mobius012 man you've got a mystery too... I went ahead and bought a water pump and thermostat and will be swapping them soon. It's not immediately concerning to me bc of the infrequency and not driving it too much for the next couple months. I'd love to hear from you if you find a solution.
I have the same symptoms and issue on a 2011 4Runner with 197,000 miles. I went the other way and did a complete coolant swap (previously done at 129,000) with Toyota OEM SLLC 50/50. Also, I put in a new OEM thermostat. Had it heat up to about 2/3 again while waiting at a lengthy stoplight during 105-degree heat. I bought the OEM fan clutch at the dealership to try next. This video is GREAT to help get it installed without removing the fan shroud and radiator hoses. The original clutch still has some resistance, but not as much as the new one. Will see if this solves the issue. The water inlet at the thermostat was sparkly clean and there was minimal sediment in the coolant when drained. If this doesn't solve it, the water pump will be next.
@@owenmiller9906 please definitely keep us updated! I’ll be doing my water pump and thermostat when I return from travel. Overheating issues are such a puzzle sometimes!
@@ImNoMechanic Will do. It is a bit of a mystery. We were on a Forest Service road last year towing our off-road camping trailer. It was reasonably warm out - 90 degrees or so and I stopped to do some fishing. My wife and kids stayed in the car with the A/C on. After about 30 minutes at idle my wife noticed the A/C wasn't cooling anymore and the temp gauge was pegged in the red. Thankfully the system never boiled over. As soon as we started driving the temp came right back down. This seems to indicate a lack of airflow over the radiator. That was the only time we had a problem last year. I assumed maybe a stuck thermostat so I ordered a new OEM one but without any further problems I didn't install it. Fast forward to last week and it has been around 105-deg every day and the problem came back - though the gauge never went above 2/3 this time. I drained the coolant from the radiator and both block drains and replaced the thermostat. Filled with Toyota OEM SLLC 50/50 coolant per the factory service manual procedure. All was well but then the temp spiked to 2/3 again this morning. New OEM fan clutch is installed and we'll see if that solves the issue. If not, water pump will be next.
@@ImNoMechanic yes get with the local Toyota parts department and tell them you need the small tube of fluid for fan clutch service- I usually needed 2 tubes. I used an impact screwdriver with a #3 or 2 phillips. Once the screws are out carefully split it in half make a mark with a sharpie so you line up the exact same way. Be gentle and don’t rip the o ring. Use the impact screwdriver to tighten the screws back on . It’s a little messy and when it has enough of the viscous fluid it’s almost spilling out
Make sure to park your car on a level upslope when you refill coolant. This will force air to gravitate toward the radiator filler opening and eliminate air pockets as you add coolant. You don't want any air in the system that can cause the car to overheat. Another helpful thing is to get one of those special funnels that seal at the radiator opening. You keep adding coolant till the funnel is at least half full. Turn the engine on and let it idle till fully warm and also run the heater. When you don't see any more bubbles in the funnel, it means all the air pockets are eliminated.
Man mine has been doing this for a about a few months now, if the car is idling for awhile it’ll start overheating. During winter/spring months I’d just crank the heater on and the temp would drop back down. However, now that summer is here I can’t keep cooking myself to death with the heater on and need to tackle this job lol
I'm way late here, but I never found my answer. Did you? I did comment this to someone else though... "I think I'm on the cusp of the solution. Short version: my radiator was incredibly dirty and since I'm at 200k I'm just replacing it as preventative maintenance. Long answer: Maybe I'm dumb, after all I'm no mechanic, but I thought the visible cooling fins in the engine bay was the radiator, but it is not. The visible fins are the AC condenser, and behind that is the radiator, which I can only see through a tiny half inch gap. However, through that tiny gap I can see that it's completely caked with dirt, I'm thinking that will solve all my problems. I'll post a video once I get around to it."
This is awesome, thanks for sharing! I always wondered what exactly that was. Approximately how many miles did you have when you began to experience the cooling issue?
Did you end up solving the issue ? I’m having overheating issues too on my 2004 4Runner Already flushed the coolant And replaced thermostat and radiator cap thanks
I think I'm on the cusp of the solution. Short version: my radiator was incredibly dirty and since I'm at 200k I'm just replacing it as preventative maintenance. Long answer: Maybe I'm dumb, after all I'm no mechanic, but I thought the visible cooling fins in the engine bay was the radiator, but it is not. The visible fins are the AC condenser, and behind that is the radiator, which I can only see through a tiny half inch gap. However, through that tiny gap I can see that it's completely caked with dirt, I'm thinking that will solve all my problems. I'll post a video once I get around to it.
Update #2 -- 12/18/24 -- Remember: I'm no mechanic. So throughout this overheating saga I was under the impression that my radiator was very clean. Well... turns out that the visible cooling fins inside the engine bay are the AC condenser, not actually the radiator itself. You can laugh at me, it's okay. There's about a half inch gap between the AC condenser and radiator and the radiator is not really visible because of a foam strip on the rad support bracket. So, after removing that foam and getting a peek at the radiator through the tiny gap it looks atrocious. I'm fully convinced as of this moment that the issue is a dirty radiator (not condenser) because it makes sense with every single symptom so far. My solution will be to replace the radiator because I'm at 200k on the original and it feels like a good time for preventative maintenance. However, I will be cleaning and keeping or selling the old one because it appear to be in near perfect shape with no leaks. The amount of dirt I mention at 5:21 and 11:02 should have told me something.
Update #1 -- 6/5/24 one month after this video -- I was hoping this story was over... but today in a parking lot, a sunny 85º day, the engine temp started slowly creeping upward to about 2/3rds on the gauge and with one quick loop around the parking lot the temperature dropped again no problem. Few minutes home, pop the hood & crawlin' under, I see no leaking on the engine to indicate water pump seeping, coolant overflow levels are perfect so it's not inhaling it (head gasket) &/or leaking it bc there's also no leaking around radiator seams or anything. Truly mysterious still, a bit bummed. Only two other symptoms I can suspect as real possibilities right now: my coolant is near due for change (but I don't think that's the issue) oorrr thermostat is partially failing? It doesn't seem likely or common, but a sticky thermostat spring could be the culprit here to explain it being intermittent. Because it's so affordable & easy I'll go for the thermostat first and continue to monitor. If that doesn't solve it then I'll probably do water pump and no matter what I'll do coolant flush soon anyhow.
Any update? I have an aftermarket CFS double core aluminum radiator, new URD 170 thermostat and a fresh flush... And I'm supercharged. On a hot 100+ day, idling for extended period of time, mine also heats up to 3/4
. And at stoplights my ac warms up ... Clutch is my next swap
@@mobius012 man you've got a mystery too... I went ahead and bought a water pump and thermostat and will be swapping them soon. It's not immediately concerning to me bc of the infrequency and not driving it too much for the next couple months. I'd love to hear from you if you find a solution.
I have the same symptoms and issue on a 2011 4Runner with 197,000 miles. I went the other way and did a complete coolant swap (previously done at 129,000) with Toyota OEM SLLC 50/50. Also, I put in a new OEM thermostat. Had it heat up to about 2/3 again while waiting at a lengthy stoplight during 105-degree heat. I bought the OEM fan clutch at the dealership to try next. This video is GREAT to help get it installed without removing the fan shroud and radiator hoses. The original clutch still has some resistance, but not as much as the new one. Will see if this solves the issue. The water inlet at the thermostat was sparkly clean and there was minimal sediment in the coolant when drained. If this doesn't solve it, the water pump will be next.
@@owenmiller9906 please definitely keep us updated! I’ll be doing my water pump and thermostat when I return from travel. Overheating issues are such a puzzle sometimes!
@@ImNoMechanic Will do. It is a bit of a mystery. We were on a Forest Service road last year towing our off-road camping trailer. It was reasonably warm out - 90 degrees or so and I stopped to do some fishing. My wife and kids stayed in the car with the A/C on. After about 30 minutes at idle my wife noticed the A/C wasn't cooling anymore and the temp gauge was pegged in the red. Thankfully the system never boiled over. As soon as we started driving the temp came right back down. This seems to indicate a lack of airflow over the radiator. That was the only time we had a problem last year. I assumed maybe a stuck thermostat so I ordered a new OEM one but without any further problems I didn't install it. Fast forward to last week and it has been around 105-deg every day and the problem came back - though the gauge never went above 2/3 this time. I drained the coolant from the radiator and both block drains and replaced the thermostat. Filled with Toyota OEM SLLC 50/50 coolant per the factory service manual procedure. All was well but then the temp spiked to 2/3 again this morning. New OEM fan clutch is installed and we'll see if that solves the issue. If not, water pump will be next.
Back in the older days when I used to wrench for Toyota we used to take the fan clutches apart and put in a couple of small tubes of viscous fluid
I still have my old fan clutch, do you think I can DIY this repair and keep the OEM for future just in case? That sounds awesome.
@@ImNoMechanic yes get with the local Toyota parts department and tell them you need the small tube of fluid for fan clutch service- I usually needed 2 tubes. I used an impact screwdriver with a #3 or 2 phillips. Once the screws are out carefully split it in half make a mark with a sharpie so you line up the exact same way. Be gentle and don’t rip the o ring. Use the impact screwdriver to tighten the screws back on . It’s a little messy and when it has enough of the viscous fluid it’s almost spilling out
@@Jlb-fz7nl wow this is amazing insight!!
@@ImNoMechanic same thing with denso starters- the only thing that wears out are the contacts- you don’t need the whole starter
Toyota alternator the older ones without the clutch pulley were also rebuild able I have done it once only and I barely remember
Make sure to park your car on a level upslope when you refill coolant. This will force air to gravitate toward the radiator filler opening and eliminate air pockets as you add coolant. You don't want any air in the system that can cause the car to overheat.
Another helpful thing is to get one of those special funnels that seal at the radiator opening. You keep adding coolant till the funnel is at least half full. Turn the engine on and let it idle till fully warm and also run the heater. When you don't see any more bubbles in the funnel, it means all the air pockets are eliminated.
that’s all good advice! No coolant is lost for this fan clutch process, but still good advice.
Here for it! Setting the bar HIGH with this production quality 🤌
3:2 you like?
@@ImNoMechanic first car vid in open gate?
@@blasepivovar pioneering in the space 🙌🏼
Thermostat is ok? Overflow coolant tank gets full? Could also be a bad radiator cap as well.
I see your other comment! Thermostat is okay 👍🏼
Man mine has been doing this for a about a few months now, if the car is idling for awhile it’ll start overheating. During winter/spring months I’d just crank the heater on and the temp would drop back down. However, now that summer is here I can’t keep cooking myself to death with the heater on and need to tackle this job lol
I'm way late here, but I never found my answer. Did you?
I did comment this to someone else though... "I think I'm on the cusp of the solution. Short version: my radiator was incredibly dirty and since I'm at 200k I'm just replacing it as preventative maintenance.
Long answer: Maybe I'm dumb, after all I'm no mechanic, but I thought the visible cooling fins in the engine bay was the radiator, but it is not. The visible fins are the AC condenser, and behind that is the radiator, which I can only see through a tiny half inch gap. However, through that tiny gap I can see that it's completely caked with dirt, I'm thinking that will solve all my problems. I'll post a video once I get around to it."
This is awesome, thanks for sharing! I always wondered what exactly that was. Approximately how many miles did you have when you began to experience the cooling issue?
Around 190k miles at first failure
Thank you ,,,, for the help from your video ….
glad to help
Got the fan clutch, but still waiting on the 4Runner
Shipping times can be slow for them sorry
Nvm just watched the final notes lol hopefully its good now!
We’ll see once it gets real hot outside I suppose! I’m hoping too haha
Did you end up solving the issue ?
I’m having overheating issues too on my 2004 4Runner
Already flushed the coolant
And replaced thermostat and radiator cap
thanks
I think I'm on the cusp of the solution. Short version: my radiator was incredibly dirty and since I'm at 200k I'm just replacing it as preventative maintenance.
Long answer: Maybe I'm dumb, after all I'm no mechanic, but I thought the visible cooling fins in the engine bay was the radiator, but it is not. The visible fins are the AC condenser, and behind that is the radiator, which I can only see through a tiny half inch gap. However, through that tiny gap I can see that it's completely caked with dirt, I'm thinking that will solve all my problems. I'll post a video once I get around to it.