Steve make sure you check the capacitor for good health. If a run capacitor fails, the motor can display a variety of problems including not starting, overheating, and vibrating
Steve you should ohm out the windings and ground on the motor. That would tell you straight away if the motor is bad. And if it's bad when you get a new motor you should ohm out the windings to be sure that the new motor is okay. And be sure to put the amp meter on it make sure the proper amperage
That looked complicated Steve, great job determining what wire to which, that's why I learn SO much from your video's! Enjoy the long weekend and don't forget the video's! 🎉😎💥💯☝️👍🫵
The blower DRIVE BELT on the FHA furnace my dad had installed in 1948 lasted 35 years until 1983. The motor nor anything else on that furnace ever did fail, but the furnace was replaced to provide central air conditioning in the 90's. The heat exchanger on that original furnace was cast iron. When I hear HVAC people calling 10 year old systems as needing replacement, it shows me how people in this country have been willing to accept cheap, not fit for purpose Chinese crap for way too long.
Steve, That was a great troubleshooting skills. 35 amps! Almost as if the motor was getting 240VAC instead of 120? That time/ temp limit switch is fried allowing power to the low speed and high speed windings... Great job
Looks like you are energizing two speeds at once, which will burn out the motor. The fan really is spdt, and should send power to either the bonnet fan control or directly the blower high terminal for ac. That way you can turn on fan from the thermostat when heat is on without destroying the motor. Of course what you did will work, since you are just using one speed.
@@stevenlavimoniereHi Steve, I missed your banter with Miss Moly on this one. I recently lost my little girl Aussie- Doodle MaKenzie. I live alone like you and I miss her badly. Its amazing how much they mean to you, and how much you miss them when they are gone. 😢Thanks for all the education you provide.
That had the potential to cause a house fire!! An RCD or (GFI in north America) would have prevented a lot of those issues including allowing you to jumper the neutral to ground. I'm an electrical tech in a UK hospital and bypassing safety switches is a serious no no, they are there for good reason and should never be removed, bypassed or cheated. Death, fire or injury caused by those actions can be traced back and litigation taken against the person who modified the machine from it's design criteria, absolving the manufacturer of all blame. Be careful what you are doing.
Steve has a parts store on wheels. I never carried as many capacitors as he does and he carries some of the most obscure toilet parts that I have never heard of before.
Energizing multiple speed taps will burn out a motor quick fast in a hurry. The fan cycle switch with limit is only supposed to energize the motor through the normally closed contact on the relay which will disconnect when cooling is calling, therefore it would be impossible to energize multiple speed taps at the same time unless it was miswired. NO! Don’t use ground as a neutral! Don’t trust fieldpiece. Do not bypass safeties, do not bypass door switch, that’s shake hands with danger. Usually you don’t want heating fan speed & cooling fan speed to be the same speed. Too low fan speed in cooling may freeze the evaporator, too high may not dehumidify enough causing mold & mildew. Too low fan speed in heating will overheat, too high in heating will cause condensation in the primary heat exchanger & quickly rust the heat exchanger making carbon monoxide potentially harming occupants.
Good idea to check current draw after motor replacement. I've seen at least couple of HVAC channel guys doing it regularly, just for assessing system health. They double check all the voltages and amps on all phases, compressors, fans, measure voltage differences on relays etc.
It's possible. I seem to remember at least another video where someone had a furnace that was repeatedly acting up and a very similar looking cycle switch was the issue.
Steve why don’t you have some kind of rig where it’s a plug with the other end spliced and you just hook up to the motor with the 120 direct to see if it spins? Then you don’t have to remove it to test.
Why replace the relay, bypass the door switch & try to fix a working connector without checking basic wiring? Perhaps I didn't get the point of the video.
A day in the life and the f'd up stuff you run into out there. It sucks frying a motor because of a bad fan control that probably fried the motor before it. Straight cool t-stat with heat and omit fan control. If enough wires and a 24volt gas valve, heat anticipator in it. Good YOB.
Does the primary problem start with there being 2 thermostats . Too much monkey motion and gizmos to make it all work ??????? Why would you even have 2 thermostats any way ?????
Hard to tell because of your tape and camera didn't show clearly but I suspect you have wired up black from the motor to the 120v hot. This black wire from the motor is high speed. You then wired up the red wire from the motor to 120v from relay. This red wire is a lower speed. Attempting to run both high and low speed at same time is not good. The motor is off on internal overload. if you ever feel a motor and it's hot, cool it off before condemning . What we do know for sure is it is not the power switch as you have 120v to furnace. You always have to have panel on when checking amp draws otherwise the lack of static causes motor to draw over amps. Try just wiring up only white and black wire from motor of course the cap needs to be wired to. Then put on door and check amps.
So I say this with the utmost sarcasm, I thought you were a licensed plumber not a licensed electrician 😅 So your telling me, one teacher could walk by and turn on AC unit, another teacher could get cold and walk by and turn on heat? Unbelievable 😅
For a plumber, your a danm good electrian Steve. Awesome job!
That was a tough one. Great detective work, Steve.
Nice trouble shooting Steven! Thanks for posting!
You're brilliant Steve! Great troubleshooting work.
Excellent diagnosis Steve!
Hello Steve Great job troubleshooting 🤩👍
Great job Always Steve!
Well done Steve. Every now and then, you'll get that long one.
GREAT VIDEO STEVE, VERY INFORMATIVE
Steve make sure you check the capacitor for good health.
If a run capacitor fails, the motor can display a variety of problems including not starting, overheating, and vibrating
Lack of phase shift
He checked it. It’s in the vid.
Steve you should ohm out the windings and ground on the motor. That would tell you straight away if the motor is bad. And if it's bad when you get a new motor you should ohm out the windings to be sure that the new motor is okay. And be sure to put the amp meter on it make sure the proper amperage
Troubleshooting from hell.
I watched every minute.
Nice job explaining your thoughts and reasons for things.
Wow this is a perfect example of why i do all my own Plumbing electrical and and anything in-between
That looked complicated Steve, great job determining what wire to which, that's why I learn SO much from your video's! Enjoy the long weekend and don't forget the video's! 🎉😎💥💯☝️👍🫵
Steve that was a real head scratcher good job thanks for the video
Good video, Steve 👍
getter done 👍👍
Great job
Cluster F pain in the A . Good call getting the electrician to check out the main wiring.
25 minutes in and I’m pulling my hair out 😂
I’d give it a good kick and hope for the best!
Your amazing Steve!
Hello Steve!
In the old days I use to ohm the windings.
When Steve says "that's queer " - we got problems, Mama !
Between old Nervous Nellie and this Daycare - that's a full time job. 😅
Now that’s what I call rocket science!!
I really feel for you service guys with all the Chinesium parts coming onto the country.
The blower DRIVE BELT on the FHA furnace my dad had installed in 1948 lasted 35 years until 1983. The motor nor anything else on that furnace ever did fail, but the furnace was replaced to provide central air conditioning in the 90's. The heat exchanger on that original furnace was cast iron. When I hear HVAC people calling 10 year old systems as needing replacement, it shows me how people in this country have been willing to accept cheap, not fit for purpose Chinese crap for way too long.
Steve, That was a great troubleshooting skills. 35 amps! Almost as if the motor was getting 240VAC instead of 120? That time/ temp limit switch is fried allowing power to the low speed and high speed windings... Great job
Ohms law stipulates that voltage and current are inversely proportional to each other, so doubling the voltage would halve the current.
Doubling the voltage would double the current! And because it's an inductive load it would more than double. @@electrickal1
Apologies, you are correct. V=I times R and the power would quadruple because it's P=I squared R.@@fanofoldfans9238
One to many hands working on that equipment , hopefully you got it.
Looks like you are energizing two speeds at once, which will burn out the motor. The fan really is spdt, and should send power to either the bonnet fan control or directly the blower high terminal for ac. That way you can turn on fan from the thermostat when heat is on without destroying the motor. Of course what you did will work, since you are just using one speed.
problem is there is 2 seperate tsats for this unit .. that is going to be adressed next . it should have one . been wired like this for 30 years
Wow, great tip, thank you!
@@stevenlavimoniereHi Steve, I missed your banter with Miss Moly on this one. I recently lost my little girl Aussie- Doodle MaKenzie. I live alone like you and I miss her badly. Its amazing how much they mean to you, and how much you miss them when they are gone. 😢Thanks for all the education you provide.
Steve,there is a squirrel in the cage MAMA
That had the potential to cause a house fire!! An RCD or (GFI in north America) would have prevented a lot of those issues including allowing you to jumper the neutral to ground.
I'm an electrical tech in a UK hospital and bypassing safety switches is a serious no no, they are there for good reason and should never be removed, bypassed or cheated.
Death, fire or injury caused by those actions can be traced back and litigation taken against the person who modified the machine from it's design criteria, absolving the manufacturer of all blame.
Be careful what you are doing.
Job satisfaction eh Steve? Always great to fix an awkward one.
36 Amps is a lot unless that is a Heavy Duty Light Switch. I think a normal light Switch is for about 15 or 20 amps.
Howdy Steve and Molly
Awesome video. How many of us repair guys has balls to call electrician, we want to tare house down some of us
this thing just missed you it wanted your attention again :D
“I should have one of them in the truck.”
Steve has a parts store on wheels. I never carried as many capacitors as he does and he carries some of the most obscure toilet parts that I have never heard of before.
@picklerix6162 You could make up a part that doesn't exist, and Steve somehow has it in the truck.
@dexenationgracey1979 😂Thats a fact.
Imagine the hundreds of hours of drive time he has avoided over the years by having so many parts on the truck.
Hey Steve and Miss Molly! Workin’ again y’all. 👍👍. Miss Molly keeping an eye on Steve while working, lol
I SEE MISS MOLLY AT THE HELM IN THE TRUCK. STEVE DO YOU BUY YOUR PARTS IN BULK ON LINE OR DO YOU GO TO THE SUPPLY HOUSE.
The electrical always get most of the guys. Steve knows his shit, not easy mama.
The wiring is really jammed into that small box.
Check the voltage with it running..................that will tell the story'
The black is common the red is normally open and brown is normally closed so when the relay is energized you will get power to the red wire
I think a couple of my wires fried watching this post…….so it was basically getting double the juice and it cooked the motor etc?
Steve I didn't see you connect the motor shaft to the blower wheel ?
i did just trying to keep the video as short as possable
Energizing multiple speed taps will burn out a motor quick fast in a hurry. The fan cycle switch with limit is only supposed to energize the motor through the normally closed contact on the relay which will disconnect when cooling is calling, therefore it would be impossible to energize multiple speed taps at the same time unless it was miswired. NO! Don’t use ground as a neutral! Don’t trust fieldpiece. Do not bypass safeties, do not bypass door switch, that’s shake hands with danger.
Usually you don’t want heating fan speed & cooling fan speed to be the same speed. Too low fan speed in cooling may freeze the evaporator, too high may not dehumidify enough causing mold & mildew. Too low fan speed in heating will overheat, too high in heating will cause condensation in the primary heat exchanger & quickly rust the heat exchanger making carbon monoxide potentially harming occupants.
Very GOOD information, thank you! 😊
Steven, it's Labor Day weekend. Pick up a T-bone steak for Luna. lol
Good diagnostic skills. Anyone else would have just thrown a motor in it and walked away.
Well didn't he do that with the first motor?
Good idea to check current draw after motor replacement. I've seen at least couple of HVAC channel guys doing it regularly, just for assessing system health. They double check all the voltages and amps on all phases, compressors, fans, measure voltage differences on relays etc.
That capacitor keeps the motor healthy otherwise it overheats and so does the wires
Molly in the background. Lol.
Signwriting on the new truck.
I've seen that happen when it tries to run with 2 of the speeds are wired together..
Two power points going to the motor.
Wow I wonder if all the issues in the past were due to that cycle switch?
It's possible. I seem to remember at least another video where someone had a furnace that was repeatedly acting up and a very similar looking cycle switch was the issue.
Steve why don’t you have some kind of rig where it’s a plug with the other end spliced and you just hook up to the motor with the 120 direct to see if it spins? Then you don’t have to remove it to test.
I would have tried switching the red to different color going to motor, see if it runs
Why replace the relay, bypass the door switch & try to fix a working connector without checking basic wiring? Perhaps I didn't get the point of the video.
3:56 horrific wiring
Might have had a Fluffy Chewing on the wires.
Good trouble shooting.
A day in the life and the f'd up stuff you run into out there. It sucks frying a motor because of a bad fan control that probably fried the motor before it.
Straight cool t-stat with heat and omit fan control. If enough wires and a 24volt gas valve, heat anticipator in it. Good YOB.
That's the problem with using 2 speeds and those old limits.
Does the primary problem start with there being 2 thermostats . Too much monkey motion and gizmos to make it all work ??????? Why would you even have 2 thermostats any way ?????
Hard to tell because of your tape and camera didn't show clearly but I suspect you have wired up black from the motor to the 120v hot. This black wire from the motor is high speed. You then wired up the red wire from the motor to 120v from relay. This red wire is a lower speed. Attempting to run both high and low speed at same time is not good. The motor is off on internal overload. if you ever feel a motor and it's hot, cool it off before condemning . What we do know for sure is it is not the power switch as you have 120v to furnace. You always have to have panel on when checking amp draws otherwise the lack of static causes motor to draw over amps.
Try just wiring up only white and black wire from motor of course the cap needs to be wired to. Then put on door and check amps.
Should of ran lol. Good sense of humor. But hey I knew you’d find the faulty furnace fan.
What a cluster F. Well done tho!
Most techs nowadays can’t do what you just did
Its a pile of rudd, steve
First comment yippee
Sounds like a Leaka Momma.
I wonder who monkeyed with that unit?
Hello all.
Get Your Tablet out and Sell Them a New System. Lol
Brain surgery at its best! You rock!!
motor running on 2 speeds
Great video Steve! That machine is defiantly a little queer.
Screw it, I'm first not edited either mama!
Nope beat you by ten minutes
@@tedbell4416 cap
@@Deion245zap
Warranty?
what a mess
So I say this with the utmost sarcasm, I thought you were a licensed plumber not a licensed electrician 😅
So your telling me, one teacher could walk by and turn on AC unit, another teacher could get cold and walk by and turn on heat?
Unbelievable 😅
First
Nope
@@tedbell4416 yup
@@Deion245 Tedbell4416 got ya by 20 easy
@@J-Coltgot ya by 40 keep practicing though
@@tedbell4416 You da man Ted!
Hello
You need 240 voltage run the replacement the motor good luck
Bee safe
240 241 whatever it takes
its a 110 motor,,, most gas furnaces have 110 motors
I don't think a 240 motor would work without L1 and L2.
@stevenlavimoniere
Steve
Sorry for my confusion you're Wright 110volt
Hello Steve!