Router Plane Q&A | Paul Sellers
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- Опубліковано 29 лип 2024
- In this Q&A Paul Sellers answers some of your questions regarding this remarkable hand tool, the router plane.
The router plane remains one of the most essential tools for hand tool woodworkers. It is used to refine cuts which are either made by chisels, saws or machines, Paul often even uses a router plane as an improvised marking gauge.
Questions:
0:59 What wood do you recommend for making an extension plate for the base of the router plane? How thick should it be?
2:55 Recently the floor of some elements I have chopped have been deeper than my Stanley router reaches. Is there a way to extend the depth reach?
4:14 Having just bought my first router plane I was wondering what basic maintenance should I do to restore it to a good working tool?
5:17 What is the best way to set the height to make sure you don't plane too deeply?
7:11 Do you recommend attaching a wooden support screwed to the base of the plane?
7:54 My Veritas router plane changes depth during the cut (the shank of the iron slips in the collar). Is there a trick that will prevent this slippage and help ensure an equal depth across the entire surface?
10:11 How does one prevent tear out when routing?
12:11 One thing I've noticed by watching your videos, Paul, is that you only use the router plane to put the finishing touches on tenon cheeks, dados and the like. Was the router plane designed for more than this or is this where the router shines?
15:04 Grain issues? Cutting out a channel/tenon, I often 'dig in' (no, not taking big cuts), likely due to grain? You've mentioned 'feeling' for grain with No4 plane, how do you address this with the router plane please Paul?
18:05 Paul, the main issue I have when using a router is that the shavings end up between the sole of the plane and my workpiece. These shavings scar the wood of my workpiece. How to prevent this? Or is this to do with the router plane itself?
21:40 Hi Paul! Is the router plane effective for making a groove with the width of the iron or a rebate, as you do with the plough plane? Thank you!
23:55 Is it important to get a router plane with the micro adjustment height wheel for that extra precision, or will a model without the adjustment wheel do the job just fine? Thanks Paul.
26:02 Are there specific times when you would reach for a router plane over a plough plane (and vice versa) when either could seemingly be used?
27:49 Diamond point vs square blade
28:46 How to prepare the wood for the sole?
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Thanks Paul, I’m a quadriplegic woodworker(spinal cord injury) and I’m beyond grateful for all your videos that you’ve put online. It has helped me tremendously. Currently making a router plane and you were the first person I thought to look up when I started second guessing myself regarding design. Thanks again for everything.
Paul Sellers is an absolute legend imho.. I love watching these videos..
Looks like Paul has cornered the market in vintage router planes! ;)
Thanks Paul, great answers for these questions. I love my router plane.
Love the millimeter conversion labels in the video - thank you so much from metric Denmark :)
Yes, that's a great help sometimes!
Thanks for metric Brazil
Yet another great video covering many if not all aspects of router plane use. Thanks, Paul for sharing your expertise.
Thank you, Mr Paul!
Thanks kindly for doing this. I got a router plane and just love it. I really appreciate all your advice and input.
I recently bought a Stanley No. 71 from an estate sale in the box BARELY used!! I payed $20 for it after they told me they would give it to me for $4. I was bubbling over!!
Just love your insight Paul, thanks
Incredible video and your an amazing teacher!! Thanks for what you do for us. Yes, I bought your book too!!
Thanks Paul more great information. After checking your book out of the library twice I ordered one from Lee Valley yesterday. I'm looking forward to your next book being published.
Take care.
Paul, awesome as always!
Thank you for the information on the router plane and for mentioning your book. I had not seen anything about your book before but I will have to get a copy as soon as possible. Take care and have a good week.
Again, another fantastic video and info. Mr. Sellers, you are tops in my book. Thank you. Cheers.
I read your book on workbenches maybe 5 years ago and loved it. I had no idea you had another book! I truly can’t wait to pick it up! Thank you 😊
Paul you are a gentleman and sorry for all my questions, you probably get overwhelmed with questions. Please keep teaching and God bless.
Thanks Paul more great information.I was helped by the list of questions you typed.
Many thanks from Russia.
Thanks Paul. Useful video. Especially for a IT worker like me.
Thanks, Paul. I bought that book at the beginning of my hand tool journey, and it is the most valuable woodworking book that I own...completely delighted with it. Not many people can deliver content in a way that I can understand, and you do it consistently. Thanks!
Thank you Paul. Excellent and concise information as always.
Cheers,
Michael O’Brien
Alabama, USA
If you place a very thin strip of soft copper or similar metal between the end of the locking screw and its mating surface the blade should not move during use. The copper conforms to the shape of the locking collar and adds more locking surface.
I love those "Eureka" moments!
I never considered that the darker rings would be harder than the lighter coloured rings, even though I probably knew it subconsciously. Since a darker colour generally mean that things are more concentrated, and knots in wood are generally harder and darker.
Thank you, Paul. You are always patient and gentle with those of us who have more doubts than experience.
😊
Thank you Paul. I look forward to being able to find one at an affordable price! (If not I'll have to make one)
Paul is my "go to" reference for anything woodwork related... he makes an awesome teacher. If I had him when I went to school I wouldn't have dropped woodwork 👍🙂
A video of making that router plane would be great. Thanks Paul.
Excellent video Paul, thankyou once again for sharing your knowledge.
Great tips, thanks for the help!
Paul is definitely the Chuck Norris of woodworking. Selfishly love he uses imperial measurements...and he’s incredible!
I made one out of a two by four, and I've been using it ever since.
Seeing a new video from Paul is like a good friend popping round for a coffee.
Router planes are so hot right now - I bet a few people have bought them purely for decoration in the last few years, prices have gone through the roof. I don’t blame them: router planes are cool looking tools, and there’s a metaphor in there somewhere. Something about grabbing life by the knobs. I mean horns.
I’ve got a Stanley 71 that I couldn’t quite identify at first: according to the markings it’s a “Type 10” made from 1925 to 1938, but it doesn’t have the fitting for the shoe - upon closer inspection, it looks like someone has carefully and very professionally removed it. Very nice, since I won’t need it anyway.
‘This is where Stanley invented the hump’ ... leaves me speechless. But never the less, i’m a fan, mr Sellers! Great videos!
Once I discovered a router plane existed I just had to order one to assist in my inlay work I'm beginning to learn about. Your video is invaluable for helping avoid the pitfalls of improper use. Thanks.
Sapele makes beautiful knobs and totes. You can make it look like the old rosewood handles. Perfect, beautiful,grain.
Thank You Paul!! I was quizzing myself while watching the video. I must say I did well and I credit this from reading your book. So with that said if you can Buy this book it’s a incredible resource, I go back to it every time I have a question. Just my humble opinion. Thank You Paul and your team for all the hard work you guys do for the Woodworking community.
Thank you for sharing your experience and wisdom I find that when I use a power router it nearly always ends in tears as there is often no finesse it is on or off and because of the power you often do not have the control. Hand tools give you that control, yes it will take longer but the results speak for themselves. I recently visited an old church and was in awe of the craftsmanship in the wooden panels created in 1700's where there were no power tools, keep up the good work as someone who has returned to this hobby and remembering the skills I have forgotten from when I was 11-16 in my woodwork classes where I got a CSE Grade 1 in woodworking and Technical Drawing.
Love these Q&A's
Thanks for your help Paul! (you did pronounce it well haha) I hope your teaching reaches more people in Latin America.
Great info Paul! Once again you have enlightened me.
Thx for posting, very useful tips👌
Outstanding.
Great video! I myself have had issues with slippage in the cut, and I found a neat solution that seems to work well for me. Much in the same way that you would want to finish a depth advancement on a bench plane with a forward turn, I try to finish my depth advancements on a backwards turn with the router. The goal is to stop the blade from shifting in the dead space of the yoke, but because of the nature of the router plane, it’s pulling the blade deeper instead of pushing it back in.
Thanks for sharing that
For the question about the slipping blade. Starting at the far end of the work and taking small steps backwards can help too. Very much like a rabbet, plow plane, or even hollow and rounds. (Combination planes like a Stanley 45 or it's crazy uncle the Stanley 55 too.)
I suppose I've done some rather extreme adaptations. I made mine with replaceable irons as you have mentioned in the past. Then I began playing with shapes, I now start with good knife walls followed by a spear point on my router plane to hog out waste then clean up with either a flat iron for a dadoe or a gouge up canel iron for the blood groove on a cutting board. I also made a moveable fence system Incorporated into the design like some of the old ones had.
Hi Paul, it seems that I am about 5 steps from most of your communications. I receive all your blogs and Facebook post also instagram posts. It could be just the time difference,but I do look forward reading and viewing all post you do. Many Thanks!
Thank you paul
Thank you Paul this and the how to sharpen a router plane are fabulous, very helpful. Made a sole for my almost new Stanley 71 from a scrap of oak floor board was 7/8 so cut a housing to shape of plane, using the router and a chisel, to make depth 3/8, drilled and cut a U shape for the cutter (enough solid wood left that it shouldn’t distort), used some plumbers ptfe tape on the screw thread holding the collar / cutter to stop it slipping loose.
"The things that engineers think we need " . My sentiments exactly , it frustrates me each time I'm shopping at the hardware or tool shop and see the diminishing quality of most hand tools . I myself tend to find most of my tools at antique shops and trunk and boot sales . Blessings
I love the videos on technique. It is true that your demonstrations have caused several tools to skyrocket in price. Router planes here in America have gone stupid in price so I built my own and just had to buy a blade for it. Total cost was only $23.00 and I have pride in a job well done.
I noticed the "not so poor man's router" on the workbench. I just finished making one of these myself. It was a joy to make and it's a joy to use!
23:08 in biology this would be called an exaptation :)
I introduced a trench to the base of my wooden sole to regain the benefit of the manufacturers arch, to prevent impingement of debris to the fore of the router. works great.
Excellent! A router plane has been on my “must buy” list for quite a while. One will be added to my hand tool collection as soon as I need one on an upcoming project.
Don't bother I have one had it for years. Other than a marking guage it is tedious to use and in my opinion useless.
@@ronaldkearn3322 oh dear!
brings back a reminder to "cut wood as it prefers to be cut", I believe that was read in a book by Tage Frid on woodworking.
Thank you!
7:55 The Veritas router plane has exacly the SAME stop and lock collars as the Lie_Nielsen so I do not know how his cutter is slipping .i.e. the adjustment screw actually locks onto the stop collar.Excellent answers Paul.I think people take TOO big a cut most times.I bought your book and it contains a WEALTH of hand tool information.
Hi Paul, great video as usual. Apart from the well known auction site (and they come up rarely), where else might I source a Preston style router plane.
Great Q&A session as usual. One additional suggestion if I may: for those using a Stanley 71 router (and possibly the Record equivalent), one way to cut deeper grooves than what the included cutter allows is to replace it with a Veritas cutter. Using this trick got me out of tricky situation (making a large tenon, which required the use of a relatively thick extension sole for rigidity reasons)
I made a wooden base for my Stanley 71 and was excited about using it. With the stock blade, I had very little depth of cut. Like you, I ordered the Veritas cutters. They are a good bit longer than the stock cutters and fit without modification.
Stanley should build a Paul Sellers designed router and No.4 planes. That’d be sweet.
Love how the auto-converter "app" gives us measurement conversions for measures that mean absolutely nothing at all, only being used as an example when units of measure are completely irrelevant.
It would seem to make sense to remove the part of the wooden plate ahead of the iron for chip clearance. Since it's fixed to the plane on both sides, it shouldn't weaken it in any practical sense, plus it could add that clearance (hump) feature to a plane with a flat sole. Have I missed something?
Also, a piece of paper folded over several times can be inserted between the depth locking collar (the big one) & the iron to help stop it slipping. Normal plain printer paper can provide a huge amount of friction when it's under pressure & it won't mar the metal, unlike putting an abrasive in there.
thanks
I suppose if you are making your own router, and you can get your hands on it, Lignumvitae would be an excellent choice, I believe.
I like that little homemade router with the brass collar. Looks like it's from a window or something
If you add a wooden soul, could you not cut the front part away that is under the arched bridge? to avoid wood chips damaging the crisp edge
Yes, Netherlands.
I have a follow-up question about the Stanley 71 with the wood sole plate added. Can the wood be slotted so the open front of the router is utilized again? I was thinking that if I were to trace the opening of the router onto the wood and cut it out and clean it up, that the advantage of the open throat of the 71 versus the closed throat of the 71 1/2 could be utilized again. I see that you have not done that on any of your 71s. Would that alleviate the problem from the question, or is blowing the debris away the best method... Thanks!
BTW, earlier this week, I won an eBay auction for a Stanley 71 that was complete except for one of the cutters. The very next day, a friend of mine met a guy who was selling an entire workshop and had a few hand planes for sale. I was able to buy all of them. I got a Stanley Bailey #4, a Stanley #71 complete and including the original box, a Stanley #78 rabbeting plane, and a never used Record #778 rabbeting plane complete with instructions and original box. The guy selling it said he bought the #778 for a project and never ended up using it. I'm so stoked to learn how to use all of these planes and am enjoying your book and DVDs.
Thank you, Mr Sellers, for giving me the inspiration to begin a new hobby at 53. (-:
Paul, the Veritas router plane will do beading with different blades and can cut some different patterns. It can be more than just smoothing, dados and rabbits.
Sure your not confusing it with the plough?
Is there a reason not to simply cut out the wooden plate under the "Stanley hump" to avoid the problem of jamming wood splinters into the front of a stopped dado?
Very helpful video, and thanks for answering my question! - Liam
Paul I am looking for a croze plane used for making wooden buckets.
Sorry I missed the live version, I would like to know about the sharpening angle of the blades in reference to the plane of the base of the router. I thought it should be co-planar but heard a caution that it should not be because the cutting edge needs some clearance to cut down the drag. This means that the flat of the blade is NOT at a 90 degree to the shank of the blade, or co-planar with the router base, right? If so is there a rule of thumb for that?
You’re correct: the blade is definitely not co-planar with the sole of the plane. The heel of the cutter sits higher than the cutting edge. I’ve measured up a brand new Veritas blade I have: looks like 3 degrees.
The sharpening angle on the blade (disregarding the 3 degree slope) is the usual 25 degrees. So the sharpening angle in reference to the sole would be 28 degrees.
It shouldn’t really matter unless you’re trying to make your own blades - if you’re restoring a plane, just go with the angle that is already there and sharpen it accordingly.
Re 10:11 I find that making the bevel on the blade steeper helps
Dam your good.
What a bummer... Paul's Tool Book seems to be unavailable from any source right now 3/29/20...I've been all over Amazon, Highland Woodworking, etc., even the UK publisher... No joy. Does anyone have a current source for this: Essential Woodworking Tools by Paul Sellers? Want to purchase around 4/3/20
👍👍👍
Can anyone tell me if I have to initialize the soul of a brand new router plane?
Would reduction in amount of wood taken off reduce the chances of slippage
Paul, please send me a link to your book, trying to navigate through the utube to get there requires a doctorate in IT engineering that confuses me
Paul Orchard if you are in North America. I ordered from Lee Valley.
www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=74399&cat=1,46096,46109&ap=1
Here’s a link to the book’s page on Paul’s website: paulsellers.com/paul-sellers-books/essential-woodworking-hand-tools/
NL is the abbreviation for Newfoundland Labrador, Canada.
I bought one from a flee sale but there is no blade, where can I get a blade? , I think it is a Stanley
If it is a Stanley 71 router, the Veritas "blades" can be used instead of the original Stanley ones
How do I buy your plane and wood like if u wood send me a block of timber to make n shape the base I don't have rasps or no we're to do out raily but I'll sort shed out or I'm after a shed how do I buy one of ur own design router kit mate desperate to have a go
I have seen people put the router on the bench blade down ... forever. Doesn't that threaten the edge?
Why is the cross cut called a "housing cut"?
just to confuse me? hahahah oh youu beautiful sarcastic teddy bear.
On the west coast of America I've never seen a router plane for sale.
Ba-boom.
I couldn't help but notice that you seem to have what looks like road rash on your right arm. Did you wreck your bike? Are you alright?
Do you ever plane with the grain with a router plane or is it always across the grain?
Did you notice how I said Clwyd, that's the Welsh way of saying Clwyd,
...
the English way of saying Clwyd is : ..........
Siempre hay un chileno al medio jajaj
NL is Newfoundland and Labrador, Easternmost Canadian province.
Hilversum is in the Netherlands. They have a powerful radio transmitter there, marked on the dials of old radios.
NL stands for The Netherlands, or more in use: Holland
The word (often) the (t) is silent.
HaHa about 90% questions from the USA no surprises there
Paul, It's a useless tool. There are so many better alternatives this day and age. I own my great grandfathers Stanley. Used t once and put it back in the tool chest.It was okay 80 years ago when there were no other tools to compete with it, however, it is passe.
Ronald Kearn To me, it seems a very versatile tool. Can you give examples of where another tool may perform better? I get there are some tools that perform better for a specific job, but I wouldn't see the point in having a specific tool for a specific job that is slightly more efficient, when you can have one that performs well for a wide range of tasks. Seems less efficient and more expensive to maintain multiple tools. That being said, I do speak as a hobbyist and not someone who has to make a living from the craft.
If you don't like it, then don't use it. We don't care about your lack of understanding dood.
Of course there are other tools you can use. Fill your workshop up with machines and power tools if you want. Personally I find it very useful. Yes it’s slower than an electric router for most applications, but it’s easier to control, is quiet and doesn’t fill your workshop up with dust and chips.
@@richardsinger01 trolls are everywhere :)