I just had a fever dream where Abom79 was doing model engine content and Blondihacks was doing huge metal hogging projects but with their stylistic choices intact and it was wild. She used a forklift to catch a giant nut she fabricated with a "Yahtzee!"
Quinn - congratulations on reaching a significant milestone in your build! You know, now that you have articulated how the 'chooch' factor makes traditional steam engines superior to tubines, I may start working on a device that can be attached to a turbine to give it a chooching sound - the best of both worlds!
As a matter of interest, in small IC engines we used for racing back in the 50s (5cc capacity) it was found that bronze rings worked really well. For your application the depth would need to be a lot less to allow fitting without the rings taking a "set". Steel or cast iron rings would work too, and I have made both in the past without too much hassle.
By the way, 24 years ago (almost 25), the turn of the millennium was the event of the year 🎉 So, I think millennials should have good reason to solely refer to 2000 as the turn of the millennium.
As a boy I had a pneumatic cylinder as part of a lego set, along with a simple valve and pump. I spent an embarrassingly large amount of time moving the piston back and forth. It is indeed extremely satisfying.
There were bidirectional valves that looked like little toggle switches. I used a couple pistons and switches with some clever crank arrangements to build an engine that ran on compressed air. It worked in reverse as a compressor too.
This is getting exciting as you get closer to the finish. One complaint.. Two uses of the parting blade and no Yahtzee?!?!!? I'm disappointed.. We need double Yahtzees next time.
In a modern engine it has cross hatching for oil retention on the cylinder walls so would that be beneficial in a steam engine or would the cross hatching increase blow lowering the efficiency? Or is it just not necessary because of the lower cylinder temperatures/ pressures and the steam having oil in it? I haven’t done any research into this subject it just came to mind while watching the video
@akaHarvesteR I was told by reputable sources that wing nuts were used for armor interchanges in the 16th century, but I think even those were bespoke and unique. Imagine, every screw being unique.
I got the idea from tools made by both Williams and Armstrong. I'm not sure exactly when they were made but probably 1920's or 30's. It works very well.
You know you are old when... You refer to the change from the 1800"s to the 1900"s as the turn of the century. Almost 25 years into the 21st. Just love your content, you make my ossified brain hurt. Keep up the excellent mind expanding work!
Hey Quinn, I recently discovered the channel and I've been loving the Switcher build (and everything else)! You have a great presentation style which makes it really easy to understand what's going on. I'm now trying to figure out how I can make space in my garage for a lathe - even if it's just one of the cheap 7x14 jobbers - and start having some fun with it. Quick question, though: in a video a while back you mentioned having a carbide insert that was meant for cutting aluminum but also worked very well on steel. I can't recall which video it was (as I said, I'm new to the channel and was binging) and the insert doesn't seem to be in the tool list in the description. What was it and where do I get one?
This has been such a great series! You are always fun to watch, but the detail in this build, as well as the clear explanations of both what and why you do what you do when you do it, has been fantastic to this guy, who knows just enough about machining to follow those aspects, but virtually nothing about steam engines. So, thanks!
Great video Quinn, looking forward to more engine linkage parts. Is there a camera angle that would show the spring loaded parting blade jiggling up and down?
Hi Quinn, you are getting closer and closer to finishing the Steam Engine. That’s some tiny Work… it’s looking great so far. I can’t wait to see it pulling you around the Track. It’s incredible that something so small can have so much power. I can’t wait, 😁😁😁👍👍❤️
the winky's workshop parting blade holder! very good for small lathes. they work excellently with power feed too, which can actually help with stuff like stainless
Quinn! Spring loaded parting blade? As a long time viewer I thought rigidity was paramount. 3 years ago on your video Lathe compound (top slide) tricks you suggested deleting it for more rigidity. And Metal Lathe tutorial 15 parting operations rigidity is important. So how does a Spring loaded parting blade holder fit into all this? 😮 loving the videos all the same. I have lots of problems with parting btw.
Preface: not an expert, this is largely my intuition. If you pause at 2:10, you can see the "spring" mount is a pretty hefty piece of steel and it's riding against the toolholder's face, so it can only move in one plane. That's the key part. If the tool twists so the long edge digs into the face being parted, that's a quick trip to a broken parting blade (and a broken heart). The spring attachment only allows it to move into or out of the cut, so it can reduce its own workload if it's being driven a little too hard.
I know your question was directed to Quinn however as the creator of the tool (not the concept) maybe I can offer some insight. First, rigidity is always important. However, compared to most other processes on the lathe cut off is very demanding. During most turning processes the cutting tool is loaded on the side and a lack of rigidity simply results in a poor finish. With cut off the tool is being pushed into the stock. With a standard blade holder the significant downward force on the blade flexes the tool post and/or removes the slop in the dovetails. This causes the blade to move into the stock and sets off a cascade of events. A deeper cut, more downward force results in a deeper cut which results in more force etc. until the lathe stalls or the blade breaks. The spring cut off design actually moves the point of flex from below the tool to above the tool. This actually makes the blade pull aways from the stock when the tool digs in. Or more accurately, compensates for the flex in the compound below the tool.
@WinkysWorkshop thanks for the response. I work in a high school and have been struggling with helping the students with parting operations. Trying to part off 10mm steel bar we've had it bend the bar and break it. Maybe I have too much stick out when I think about it. Thank you very much for your kind helpful response.
@@jimmythejock4376 There are tons of variable with cut off. Everything has to be right. Tight gibs, tool as close to possible over the center of the dovetails on the compound, as little as possible stick-out from the chuck and only what is needed on the blade. Oddly, on the spring cut off the blade needs to extend about 1-inch. Less stick-out effects the leverage on the spring. Need lots of oil and correct feed too. The spring cut-off makes things much more forgiving.
Is that why a spring pass is called a spring pass? To clean up any areas the spring engaged that are off dimention from spring loaded tools? I know nothing about lathes except what ive learned watching Quinn and other YT machinists
Perhaps, but everything must “spring,” or break. So, when the tool, designed for springing or not, exerts pressure on a piece, everything springs at least a little bit. So, a spring pass takes up much of the inherent springing of material, tool, machine, etc..
I remember learning to use a lathe at school in the 1970''s and we had the "sprung" parting blade holders and lantern tool posts. I've always wondered why youtubers have so much trouble with parting off.
@@Blondihacks Really? On screen, it doesn't look like it has the aggressive rake of the CCGT or DCGT inserts I use. Or perhaps it's the nose angle/radius. I must admit, I never got along with the TCMT/TCGT shape, CCMT/CCGT is my go to shape for turning/facing with one tool position.
I've been running my parting blades upside down and parting in reverse for years. It gives you the same 'flex out of the cut' geometry as a sprung tool holder.
Unless you have a threaded spindle nose, in which case it gives you a loud bang followed by a chuck landing on your foot. 😁 (This is the reason I don't use this technique!)
Mark Pressler built one of those same parting tool holders and had lots of trouble with it. It seemed like a great idea, but his results made me dismiss it as too finicky. Maybe it is worth a try. I am always super careful when parting and would love some reassurance.
I've been working with Mark Presling regarding the problem he is having. It's been a real head scratcher. I've used mine a lot and have never had an issue. In fact it seems to be very forgiving. Mark has tried several things to resolve the issue but has not tried adjusting the feed rate yet. I suspect his feed rate is too fast. I usually cut at .001" to .002" per revolution. I've tried higher feed rates trying to duplicate his problem but my old south bend doesn't have the needed power (actually the flat belt slips).
I reached out to Mark as well to try and help. I’ve had zero problems with mine and I have ran it through stainless, tool steels, brass, bronze, all no problem. This issue seems to be unique to Mark’s but it’s unclear why.
Thing is if the piston is made of forge steel with teflon piston rings and bushing it doesn't expand as much.👈👈🤔🤔🤔🤔Plus will last longer only having to replace rings and bushings.
I surprised you didn't do a one time tapered ring compressor. That seems like such a Quinn sort of thing to do:) It would have been one of those things that would make you say, "it wasn't strictly necessary but it just took a few minutes extra so why not."
The new parting tool is no good, Yatzeeeee is not build into it😢, I even say it in my head, when I'm watching other videos, and they are parting parts, please don't do this to me🤪
Did you see the video Pete's railway made about clupet piston rings? They look supercool although they might be tricky to make smaller ones. The flexible parter looks amazing! Will check out that video next
I just had a fever dream where Abom79 was doing model engine content and Blondihacks was doing huge metal hogging projects but with their stylistic choices intact and it was wild. She used a forklift to catch a giant nut she fabricated with a "Yahtzee!"
That's a crossover I didn't know I needed until just now! 😂
I definitely want to see that. Blondihacks and either Abom or Cutting Edge Engineering
@@Kami8705 or the other way around...imagine Kurtis using Quinn's kit 😂
Add Titans of Machining to that mix too.
@@jimfiles3307And Inheritance Machining
Quinn - congratulations on reaching a significant milestone in your build!
You know, now that you have articulated how the 'chooch' factor makes traditional steam engines superior to tubines, I may start working on a device that can be attached to a turbine to give it a chooching sound - the best of both worlds!
Perhaps you could make a turbo booster and blowoff valve out of sheet metal? if anyone could, it's you Ron!
Remember, any noise is just wasted energy, but I want to hear it too!
What a completely adorabel pair of miniature air hammers Quinn! Wonderful video as always, thank you, helps a lot!
We're enjoying your steam engine build! Thanks for sharing!
Great job, you taught me some more tricks and as always, THANK YOU, love your videos !
I recognised Winky's parting tool straight away, he has a fascinating approach to problem solving and a really interesting channel
Thanks! 😊
Very nicely done.
As a matter of interest, in small IC engines we used for racing back in the 50s (5cc capacity) it was found that bronze rings worked really well. For your application the depth would need to be a lot less to allow fitting without the rings taking a "set". Steel or cast iron rings would work too, and I have made both in the past without too much hassle.
I have thoroughly enjoyed this series. I'm looking forward to first chooch.
I love this project!
Winky's Workshop is the cutoff tool designer. Neat how the rings/seals were done👍🏻 15:33
Thanks!
Model is looking exquisite! A testament to your skill. 😊
Thanks!
Just as a point of order - “the turn of the century” these days means 24 years ago, not 1900. Father Time has a lot to answer for
Needs the word 'last' inserted. Turn of the last century. Then we would both be happy😂
Growing up in a home full of early American antiques, we were referring to the years 1799/1800. 😂
By the way, 24 years ago (almost 25), the turn of the millennium was the event of the year 🎉
So, I think millennials should have good reason to solely refer to 2000 as the turn of the millennium.
No, no, no! The 20's is the 1920's, it was like 80 years ago, and I'm not old!
@@jeremylastname873That would be the end of the last millenium.
As a boy I had a pneumatic cylinder as part of a lego set, along with a simple valve and pump. I spent an embarrassingly large amount of time moving the piston back and forth. It is indeed extremely satisfying.
There were bidirectional valves that looked like little toggle switches. I used a couple pistons and switches with some clever crank arrangements to build an engine that ran on compressed air. It worked in reverse as a compressor too.
@ that’s the valve I had. Tried to make the valve flip automatically, but never quite cracked it.
Very cool watching the whole series. 👍👍
This is getting exciting as you get closer to the finish.
One complaint.. Two uses of the parting blade and no Yahtzee?!?!!? I'm disappointed.. We need double Yahtzees next time.
Woo, pistons!
👍
welcome back
Well now, it’s the best part of Saturday afternoon. 😊
My favourite part of Sunday morning. I stayed up until 06:00 for this.
It really is, isn’t it…?👍
Very satisfying!
Instead of you saying "thank you very much" it is we who should say "Thank you very much for showing us"! :-)
Great to see those pistons move under air pressure... delightful foreshadowing of what is to come. Well done!
Nicely done Quinn.👍👍
In a modern engine it has cross hatching for oil retention on the cylinder walls so would that be beneficial in a steam engine or would the cross hatching increase blow lowering the efficiency? Or is it just not necessary because of the lower cylinder temperatures/ pressures and the steam having oil in it? I haven’t done any research into this subject it just came to mind while watching the video
No, steam oil works differently. No crosshatching is used.
Very interesting video this week.
Great video, thanks for the cut off tool review!
Perfection!
Gives a new meaning to Spring Pass.
That was a blast!
Looking good 👍
was that the Cantina Bar Theme done in the edit at the end?
For something so complicated. The piston is the simplest part of the engine. Love your Chanel, Quinn.
I can't wait to see this thing run! 🚂
Great video , thank you
So the next engine is a steam turbine?
I never get tired of interchangeable parts. Yes, I'm amused you could swap the pistons successfully. I like strange things.
We take it for granted now, but this was actually a monumental milestone of industrial times.
@akaHarvesteR I was told by reputable sources that wing nuts were used for armor interchanges in the 16th century, but I think even those were bespoke and unique. Imagine, every screw being unique.
Wonderful!
Love this channel Love the host! Great content and humble instructions!
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!!!
Clearance is clearance, Clarence
What an amazing mlestone, Quinn! The way that piston moves in the cylinder is truly mesmerising. Can't wait to see other things start to move too!
That parting tool is really cool on vieo we can even see when it adjusts it self, the chip flow shortly stops and than gets fast again really cool..
I got the idea from tools made by both Williams and Armstrong. I'm not sure exactly when they were made but probably 1920's or 30's. It works very well.
Such a treat when your videos arrive. A wonderful experience. Thank you, R
Great job. Thank you 😊
If you wanted it [to seal] you should have put a ring on it!
You know you are old when... You refer to the change from the 1800"s to the 1900"s as the turn of the century. Almost 25 years into the 21st. Just love your content, you make my ossified brain hurt. Keep up the excellent mind expanding work!
Hey Quinn, I recently discovered the channel and I've been loving the Switcher build (and everything else)! You have a great presentation style which makes it really easy to understand what's going on. I'm now trying to figure out how I can make space in my garage for a lathe - even if it's just one of the cheap 7x14 jobbers - and start having some fun with it.
Quick question, though: in a video a while back you mentioned having a carbide insert that was meant for cutting aluminum but also worked very well on steel. I can't recall which video it was (as I said, I'm new to the channel and was binging) and the insert doesn't seem to be in the tool list in the description. What was it and where do I get one?
Train week! Choo choo!
Wow, that thing looks like a piece of jewelry. Nice job.
The chuga chuga nears! This looks so cool!
This has been such a great series! You are always fun to watch, but the detail in this build, as well as the clear explanations of both what and why you do what you do when you do it, has been fantastic to this guy, who knows just enough about machining to follow those aspects, but virtually nothing about steam engines. So, thanks!
You didn't say Yahtzee when parting with the your new parting contraption! I feel like if called for one.
Haha... thanks for your support 😃
I really look forward to your videos , thank you Quinn .
Great video Quinn, looking forward to more engine linkage parts. Is there a camera angle that would show the spring loaded parting blade jiggling up and down?
It’s microscopic
What's the problem with small cast iron rings? Too much bending needed to get them in the groove at those small bore sizes?
Great communication from you for all levels of skill 😊
See you in about 4 days Quinn .lol
👍😎
Hey, it moves!
Yay!
Making great progress (pronounced "praw-gress" since I'm from West Virginia). 😁
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Hi Quinn, you are getting closer and closer to finishing the Steam Engine. That’s some tiny Work… it’s looking great so far. I can’t wait to see it pulling you around the Track. It’s incredible that something so small can have so much power. I can’t wait, 😁😁😁👍👍❤️
I have never seen you machine anything with the oscilloscope you switch on in your intro montage! Do you never sharpen the oscilloscope?
Fun fact: oscilloscopes are self-sharpening!
Someone has never read my blog
Well Malcolm, I thought is was a purely whimsical comment that works whether you know the truth or not.
@@Blondihacks true. sorry!
@@mrimmortal1579 😁
Voila!
the winky's workshop parting blade holder! very good for small lathes. they work excellently with power feed too, which can actually help with stuff like stainless
That looks great. Nice 😎👍
I really love watching your videos. However, I really wish they were longer.
So do I but I imagine it can be challenging to produce content almost every week. Leave them wanting more.
Always a delight. This series is amazing!
blondi, will you ever make a model gas engine? i think that would be fun
Beautiful pistons, Quinn! You're making great progress on your A3 Switcher! 😊
Pennsylvania A3 switcher video 🥤
Quinn! Spring loaded parting blade? As a long time viewer I thought rigidity was paramount. 3 years ago on your video Lathe compound (top slide) tricks you suggested deleting it for more rigidity. And Metal Lathe tutorial 15 parting operations rigidity is important. So how does a Spring loaded parting blade holder fit into all this? 😮 loving the videos all the same. I have lots of problems with parting btw.
Preface: not an expert, this is largely my intuition. If you pause at 2:10, you can see the "spring" mount is a pretty hefty piece of steel and it's riding against the toolholder's face, so it can only move in one plane. That's the key part. If the tool twists so the long edge digs into the face being parted, that's a quick trip to a broken parting blade (and a broken heart). The spring attachment only allows it to move into or out of the cut, so it can reduce its own workload if it's being driven a little too hard.
I know your question was directed to Quinn however as the creator of the tool (not the concept) maybe I can offer some insight. First, rigidity is always important. However, compared to most other processes on the lathe cut off is very demanding. During most turning processes the cutting tool is loaded on the side and a lack of rigidity simply results in a poor finish. With cut off the tool is being pushed into the stock. With a standard blade holder the significant downward force on the blade flexes the tool post and/or removes the slop in the dovetails. This causes the blade to move into the stock and sets off a cascade of events. A deeper cut, more downward force results in a deeper cut which results in more force etc. until the lathe stalls or the blade breaks. The spring cut off design actually moves the point of flex from below the tool to above the tool. This actually makes the blade pull aways from the stock when the tool digs in. Or more accurately, compensates for the flex in the compound below the tool.
@WinkysWorkshop thanks for the response. I work in a high school and have been struggling with helping the students with parting operations. Trying to part off 10mm steel bar we've had it bend the bar and break it. Maybe I have too much stick out when I think about it. Thank you very much for your kind helpful response.
@@jimmythejock4376 There are tons of variable with cut off. Everything has to be right. Tight gibs, tool as close to possible over the center of the dovetails on the compound, as little as possible stick-out from the chuck and only what is needed on the blade. Oddly, on the spring cut off the blade needs to extend about 1-inch. Less stick-out effects the leverage on the spring. Need lots of oil and correct feed too. The spring cut-off makes things much more forgiving.
Is that why a spring pass is called a spring pass? To clean up any areas the spring engaged that are off dimention from spring loaded tools? I know nothing about lathes except what ive learned watching Quinn and other YT machinists
Perhaps, but everything must “spring,” or break. So, when the tool, designed for springing or not, exerts pressure on a piece, everything springs at least a little bit. So, a spring pass takes up much of the inherent springing of material, tool, machine, etc..
I was taught that it was meant to clean up the material not cut due to material flex. When the part springs back after the tool passes.
I think bronze has a slightly lower coefficient of expansion than brass so that should help with clearances.
aaaand…. YAHZSPRING!
I remember learning to use a lathe at school in the 1970''s and we had the "sprung" parting blade holders and lantern tool posts. I've always wondered why youtubers have so much trouble with parting off.
Partly it's the lack of rigidity in benchtop machine tools, particularly the import ones which are often built to a weight budget for shipping.
How Steamy Got Her Grooves Back.
I come here to laugh and learn. Well, mostly laugh...
The things quinn does to keep her sanity 😂
Or maybe lose it slower
18:25: ❤
Ground and polished carbide inserts (as used with Aluminium) are great for light cuts in tenacious materials like Stainless Steels.
That’s what that insert is
@@Blondihacks Really? On screen, it doesn't look like it has the aggressive rake of the CCGT or DCGT inserts I use. Or perhaps it's the nose angle/radius. I must admit, I never got along with the TCMT/TCGT shape, CCMT/CCGT is my go to shape for turning/facing with one tool position.
Thanks Quinn
Marjor step stone on this build, but still a long way to go.
Thanks for sharing the journey.
Ooh, moving bits!
That's incredibly satisfying.
I've been running my parting blades upside down and parting in reverse for years. It gives you the same 'flex out of the cut' geometry as a sprung tool holder.
Unless you have a threaded spindle nose, in which case it gives you a loud bang followed by a chuck landing on your foot. 😁 (This is the reason I don't use this technique!)
Mark Pressler built one of those same parting tool holders and had lots of trouble with it. It seemed like a great idea, but his results made me dismiss it as too finicky. Maybe it is worth a try. I am always super careful when parting and would love some reassurance.
I've been working with Mark Presling regarding the problem he is having. It's been a real head scratcher. I've used mine a lot and have never had an issue. In fact it seems to be very forgiving. Mark has tried several things to resolve the issue but has not tried adjusting the feed rate yet. I suspect his feed rate is too fast. I usually cut at .001" to .002" per revolution. I've tried higher feed rates trying to duplicate his problem but my old south bend doesn't have the needed power (actually the flat belt slips).
I reached out to Mark as well to try and help. I’ve had zero problems with mine and I have ran it through stainless, tool steels, brass, bronze, all no problem. This issue seems to be unique to Mark’s but it’s unclear why.
that piston drop test is satisfying. the catlike urge to bonk things and watch them go thunk
It is going to be quite interesting to see how much weight those two kind of small cylinders will drive. Very interesting.
Did Quinn make a steam piston? No, she made the world's most precise fidget!
The spring-loaded tool reminds us of the approach to take to life: a little flexibility can yield great results….(working on my sermon for tomorrow 😅)
"Measure once, cut twice."
Thing is if the piston is made of forge steel with teflon piston rings and bushing it doesn't expand as much.👈👈🤔🤔🤔🤔Plus will last longer only having to replace rings and bushings.
I surprised you didn't do a one time tapered ring compressor. That seems like such a Quinn sort of thing to do:) It would have been one of those things that would make you say, "it wasn't strictly necessary but it just took a few minutes extra so why not."
The new parting tool is no good, Yatzeeeee is not build into it😢, I even say it in my head, when I'm watching other videos, and they are parting parts, please don't do this to me🤪
❤️🔥🫂❤️🔥
hahahahaha
Did you see the video Pete's railway made about clupet piston rings?
They look supercool although they might be tricky to make smaller ones.
The flexible parter looks amazing! Will check out that video next
😁
Objection! Turbomachinery is objectively cooler than reciprocating machinery 😎
I’m very pro-chooch….
Anton Chigurh likes that air-powered conrod.