Little tip for measuring bump steer (and other steering characteristics). Cable tie a laser pointer onto the hub, aiming at a piece of paper on the wall behind, or in front, and draw its position. Move the hub through the motion you need, up and down in the case of bump steer, and mark the positions for that too. Then using a plum line you can measure how far the laser position is moving on the paper and with a bit of trig, calculate the angle of bump steer.
Chris, I love the way you apply your engineering with your innovation. You are a fantastic fabricator. Your ability to recognize a potential issue sets you above the rest. Great Job!
You are #1 in video format, The way you explain what you're doing, thinking, and showing when you make Boo-boos, Music and video editing are excellent, Your Projects are always very Creative and interesting, All done in a backyard shed and Not in some high tech shop, And that is what inspires young & old alike, Just what the world needs right now, This all makes for one of best channels on UA-cam. 👍👍👍
its good your starting young, i was lucky to get my grandfather and father tools and machinery. there is no way i could afford a lathe, press, mill and so on. i say that to say this, when building your dream garage, go x2, trust me. because in 5 years like me, ull wish u did. lol i grew out of a 30x40 in 5years. iv been watching u easily 5 years are more. i knew i was going to be a welder by the time i was 5 or 6 years old. the smell of a machine shop takes me back to a kid. thank for all your videos sir
The one thing I like about this channel is that you show your mistakes and you explain your train of thought. The thing is this , I also find it frustrating. When I see the solution for what you are doing and I can't help, do to the fact that I am viewing the past not the present.
I think you'll have problems with those lower chain rollers, as the chain will try to make a straight line and push them down under load. Good to see it progressing
Exactly.. Those extra sprockets that you put on the PULL side of the chain need to be much stronger with heavy bearings just like the carrier. The tensioner sprocket on the slop (return) side of the chain doesn't really get any pressure (until you go in reverse). Those tension/ idle sprockets on the pull side of the chain are going to break -- just be warned.
Chris, cool steering. As a thought, you could disassemble that rack and pinion steering box and see how it’s designed. I think you’d enjoy building your own rack for future projects. The other advantage to doing so is that the inner tie rod ends could be perfectly aligned with the a-arm pivot points, to minimize bumpsteer.
I like that you talk us through your thought process, especially when you make a miscalculation and explain why you would do all that work over again. It's all trial and error when you're building from scratch. Loving your videos 🤙🏼
It's gonna look so cool once it's off the ground and standing on its own 4 feet.... It's just in loaf mode like a cat right now, kind of adorable, and that makes me feel like it's gonna move like one once it gets up and stretches out. 😁👍
I agree. The angle of the chain tensioner doesn't look like it will hold. It looks like it would slip as soon as it goes into gear. Your friction force needs to be on a different plane than the rotational force.
@@mattschamel6550 The top one shouldn't be affected as it doesn't carry any load (unless in reverse). The bottom sprocket on the other hand will take 100% of the load so I think it will be the one that fails.
As always I enjoy your vids. You walk through your train of thought. It's like turning in your math answers to the professor, and he ask to see how you got the answer. I also like that you don't want to rush something, or cut corners. Even when you have to wing it, you still put in the work to make it the best.
Love the progress! As long as the steering rack is centered, the bumpsteer looks good since the pivots on the tie rods are in line with the suspension a-arm mounting points. It isn't until you lock the steering one way or the other that you'll see the bumps steer creep in...always a compromise.
yeah I'd agree that being able to handle and steer is a more important than a few degrees of bump steer in a straight line over some loose terrain. the Ackerman will help you from understeering into a bush at speed! Great build and very excited to see what you have planned next!
Now I know you enjoy making things up as you go along but I can't help thinking learning CAD and then designing things before you start might be a better way to go. Especially with your ebike build, that really required CAD and it's ability to design and work out the required strength, stress, etc. Oh well it's kind of fun watching you stumble around to something awesome.
The reason you probably thought the steering had to be being he front axle is because it's a lot easier to get proper ackerman due to clearance with the wheels. If you put it in front the axle, the steering arms want to be outboard of the steering pivot axis, which generally is also where the wheel wants to be.
9:50 by having the rack and pinion infront of the fron axle centerline you risk making the steering geometry wrong. It is called the Ackerman Geometry; Your outside frontwheel ends up turning sharper than the inside wheel when steering.... to avoid this you need to get the steering knuckles on the outside of an imaginary line going from the center of the rear axles through the turning point on the front steering.... wich is not easy. This problem was actually something old hot rodders used to battle whne building hotrods with the steering rod infront of the front axles... I had to learn it from hotrodder forums to apply it on my RC hotrod builds to make them steer better! LOL edit: 14:59 You mention the ackerman, so I guess you know what to look out for! :D
Tips You can make a chain drive differential out of a car diff. You don’t need to put a rack and pinion in exactly the right place, you can put it almost anywhere near enough. Methods. Get the centre out of the diff and remove the crown wheel and replace with a chain sprocket. Make a removable can to cover the spider gears so you can pack them with grease. Create a mount to hold The bearings and mont the diff to the frame. If you are a bit creative you may add a locker mechanism. Steering Place the rack in a higher position than the place it would need to be to avoid bump steer etc. You will be creating a solid rod between each wheel in a similar setup to old style steering box and idler arms Run a bar parallel to the rack and pinion no more than 50 mm away from it but still clearing the bots and such , connect the tie rod ends coming out of the rack to this bar. You can now depending on how far away the bar is from the proper position connect it to the wheels for steering or by using ball joints and an idler arm to prevent flopping attach it to the steering through another link rod. This method can be used on lifted trucks.
great to see progress in the steering department. when i was over there a few weeks back you discussed moving the rack and pinion box to a different location and i think it was the right move.seems like the front suspension has plenty of "droop' and thats good when catching some air you need those wheels touching back to the ground as quickly as possible so as to steer. haha steering is important
Bring extra chains. They will break under load. Also, I believe that steering assembly is Rage with a “g”. Love the project though. Absolutely love it, good luck:).
I've been watching you for a few years. This coming from a welder/fabricator of 25 years.... your design "eye" is excellent and your overall fab skills are second to none. Very talented in ALL aspects of fabrication and that's quite impressive. I hope your channel grows bigger than you ever wished for. Thank you for the great content.
Hope you find this, I am loving your stuff. I have been watching your builds and the trophy truck is the favourite thus far. Can you please update your playlists for the builds, if you can. It would be easier to find all the videos related to the build.
I definitely learned something. If building a buggy, I should probably start with suspension and steering. then worry about how to get power to the ground.
I have noticed that you like to have everything symmetrical but there are just times when that's not possible that's when you just get as close as possible I know I have the same issue but there's something I've learned and that is a majority of the time it will be unnoticeable when the project is finished it's an optical illusion that happens when your up close to the project working on it but it goes away when your standing away from the project this project is really coming along it's going to be really cool when it's done ps. bump steer is less noticable on the dirt. than it is on the pavement where it has to be more precise.
Chris, you got it I cringed when you fitted the rack in between the sprocket and chain and I was shouting no fit it in the front most rack and pinions are in front it's a better arrangement for it and for you to steer and you have more scope for it so glad you came to the right decision fantastic build as always all the best from john from Rugby UK.
as long as the steering rack is consistent on the Z axis there should be no issue with putting longer steering arms on the front wheel assembly. for example, imagine the tab that the heim joint attaches to about 8 inches long and boxes in. seems like that would allow enough room for everything and still allow for proper alignment. in fact, if you make those tabs a bit longer your tiny bit of bump steer will completely go away.
i hope you do away with the front chain tensioners, they will be very noisy and the one thats clamped wont hold ,they have alot of tension to deal with and im certain will fail ,why not get the chain as tight as you can through the links and run them inside some plastic u section as a guide, in karting we use sprocket protectors on both sides of the sprocket to keep the chain aligned ,the bar running across could be bent to allow the chain a straight line on and off the sprocket ,other than that im loving the build and the channel
Amazon has hinges and door handles for a Polaris for sale both sets under $70.00 just wanted you to know. At least take a look at them and see how they're made and you can make them. You are doing such a fantastic job on that buggie. Keep up the great work. 👍 👍👌and built💪.
Dude... you spend so much time just going back and forth and guessing what works. I highly recommend looking up xf motorsports and watching their suspension videos playlist. And would it really kill you to draw some stuff at the very least on paper?
Looks kick ass really coming along! And on your steering column rack, it doesn’t say latest race it says latest rage. Just wanted to let you know.👍🏼🤩❤️
Some early RAV4's had their rack and pinion mounted high, and the outer tie rod end mount high on the strut tower. Maybe you could mount your rack high, make extension up from the knuckles, to get all the clearances you want?
I can imagine the rear end receiving a cosmetic frame that would form the top of a truck bed, provided that you wish to have a typical Trophy Truck design. Though if there will be a body shell, you may want to consider keeping the weight down with some polymer/fiberglass paneling.
You’d probably get rid of the bump steer if you extended the length of the rods coming out of the steering rack to change the pivot point of the tie rod. Viny B has a great video on this.
If you use right angle boxes from a cub cadet or John Deere lawn mower some ford's and gravely mowers have them too you can run a drive shaft from your transmission to the front differential and have two small chains instead of one big long chain
You should find someone near you that races rc cars and talk to them about Ackerman steering and bump steer. If your geometry is correct, you should be able to have proper Ackerman and no bump steer, or at least be able to adjust your bump steer by placing/removing shims from your tiered mounting position. Keep up the great work!!
If I remember, your frame is at 8 degrees. That is going to impact your steering, but most cars are somewhere at 10 degrees of caster. Probably all good. Caster is the important factor of camber during a turn.
Did you think about reducing the size of the sprockets to the front wheel drive, to create more room for the steering? Most of the force is going through the rear wheels under acceleration any way.
You'd probably eliminate any bump steer if you brought the rack and pinion closer to the top inner pivot point of the upper arms or brought the arm on the spindle inwards
Glad your going with EPS on this rig, you will definitely need it. I wonder what options you have to reduce chain noise? I still would like to see doors on this project though! lol I think you might find that you’ll need to raise the rear end quite a bit to keep it off the ground when climbing hills, but that’s just an observation and could be wrong. Looking great man
I think using alot of that Plastic cutting board material (can't remember what it's called) for chain sliders, it's would be longer lasting than delron material 🤔
Little tip for measuring bump steer (and other steering characteristics). Cable tie a laser pointer onto the hub, aiming at a piece of paper on the wall behind, or in front, and draw its position. Move the hub through the motion you need, up and down in the case of bump steer, and mark the positions for that too. Then using a plum line you can measure how far the laser position is moving on the paper and with a bit of trig, calculate the angle of bump steer.
Chris, I love the way you apply your engineering with your innovation. You are a fantastic fabricator. Your ability to recognize a potential issue sets you above the rest. Great Job!
I love that you are so willing to undo stuff when you see a better way rather than just say good enough.
You are #1 in video format, The way you explain what you're doing, thinking, and showing when you make Boo-boos, Music and video editing are excellent, Your Projects are always very Creative and interesting, All done in a backyard shed and Not in some high tech shop, And that is what inspires young & old alike, Just what the world needs right now, This all makes for one of best channels on UA-cam. 👍👍👍
its good your starting young, i was lucky to get my grandfather and father tools and machinery. there is no way i could afford a lathe, press, mill and so on. i say that to say this, when building your dream garage, go x2, trust me. because in 5 years like me, ull wish u did. lol i grew out of a 30x40 in 5years. iv been watching u easily 5 years are more. i knew i was going to be a welder by the time i was 5 or 6 years old. the smell of a machine shop takes me back to a kid. thank for all your videos sir
The one thing I like about this channel is that you show your mistakes and you explain your train of thought. The thing is this , I also find it frustrating. When I see the solution for what you are doing and I can't help, do to the fact that I am viewing the past not the present.
I think you'll have problems with those lower chain rollers, as the chain will try to make a straight line and push them down under load. Good to see it progressing
Exactly I think also ...
Exactly.. Those extra sprockets that you put on the PULL side of the chain need to be much stronger with heavy bearings just like the carrier. The tensioner sprocket on the slop (return) side of the chain doesn't really get any pressure (until you go in reverse). Those tension/ idle sprockets on the pull side of the chain are going to break -- just be warned.
Didn't we say this in the beginning. I still like watching him work. Fun to watch other people work on toys.
CHAIN REACTION is looking good!
This things ganna be sick
…and super slow.
Chris, cool steering. As a thought, you could disassemble that rack and pinion steering box and see how it’s designed. I think you’d enjoy building your own rack for future projects. The other advantage to doing so is that the inner tie rod ends could be perfectly aligned with the a-arm pivot points, to minimize bumpsteer.
I like that you talk us through your thought process, especially when you make a miscalculation and explain why you would do all that work over again. It's all trial and error when you're building from scratch.
Loving your videos 🤙🏼
I love your willingness to go back and redo something. People are always in so much of a hurry these days.
12:29 engineering is always the first to hand out lessons. “when the student is ready the teacher will appear”
fun to follow progress!
It's gonna look so cool once it's off the ground and standing on its own 4 feet.... It's just in loaf mode like a cat right now, kind of adorable, and that makes me feel like it's gonna move like one once it gets up and stretches out. 😁👍
I think that’s a G not a C haha. Loving the progress
I was thinking the same thing, after all, latest rage makes more sense than latest race anyway !
Yep, I only noticed it when editing the video
@@ratherBweldingChris no worries. Had to pick on you. I love how the buggy is coming tho. Good job
I love how you have no problem saying an idea was bad and pivoting to something else
Awesome project.
I'm very skeptical that those chain tensioners are gonna stay put under a load.
I agree. The angle of the chain tensioner doesn't look like it will hold. It looks like it would slip as soon as it goes into gear. Your friction force needs to be on a different plane than the rotational force.
Same here. I'm wondering if he's considered reversing? The top tensioner is definitely going to slip or bend.
Is not going to lastThe one on the bottom
@@mattschamel6550 The top one shouldn't be affected as it doesn't carry any load (unless in reverse). The bottom sprocket on the other hand will take 100% of the load so I think it will be the one that fails.
@@nutzy05 I specifically mentioned reversing. It's a given that the bottom one isn't going to last.
Spent hours in the shop today. Thanks for the inspiration
Love the new builds, I think you should do some revival episodes of previous projects, I mean you have all those cool builds that just sit and rust.
As always I enjoy your vids. You walk through your train of thought. It's like turning in your math answers to the professor, and he ask to see how you got the answer. I also like that you don't want to rush something, or cut corners. Even when you have to wing it, you still put in the work to make it the best.
Yeah, came here to say the same. Chris, I enjoy watching you think things through and explain your thoughts.
Love the progress! As long as the steering rack is centered, the bumpsteer looks good since the pivots on the tie rods are in line with the suspension a-arm mounting points. It isn't until you lock the steering one way or the other that you'll see the bumps steer creep in...always a compromise.
Not how it works.
It is Latest Rage, looks good!
Thanks for filming Chris. 👍😁
The chain make me remember the 1990/2000s rc cars. Good times
post of appreciation for Chris's collection of broken bricks!
So pumped for this build! You young man make some really cool stuff.
Man this guy really pumps out videos
the back end i think would look cool if it was like a pickup truck bed kind of has the shape for it already
I was thinking the same.
Yeah, some trophy truck type fiberglass sides would be sweet.
yeah I'd agree that being able to handle and steer is a more important than a few degrees of bump steer in a straight line over some loose terrain. the Ackerman will help you from understeering into a bush at speed! Great build and very excited to see what you have planned next!
I've been following you since the CBR 1000 project and this one has me hooked lol Sundays cannot come fast enough! Keep it up bro!
Amazing bro!!!!
That steering rack has latest *rage* on it, not latest -race- 🤭
You truly are becoming a master of your craft but I feel it's too wide to heavy. Loving the build and cant wait to see how you overcome this one.
Tires are the main issue.
That’s gonna look so good when it’s done!!!
Lookin forward the the finished project
Now I know you enjoy making things up as you go along but I can't help thinking learning CAD and then designing things before you start might be a better way to go. Especially with your ebike build, that really required CAD and it's ability to design and work out the required strength, stress, etc. Oh well it's kind of fun watching you stumble around to something awesome.
Dude imagine if a old vw beetle shell fit on this thing. That would be so awesome. The TROPHY BUG!!!
The reason you probably thought the steering had to be being he front axle is because it's a lot easier to get proper ackerman due to clearance with the wheels. If you put it in front the axle, the steering arms want to be outboard of the steering pivot axis, which generally is also where the wheel wants to be.
9:50 by having the rack and pinion infront of the fron axle centerline you risk making the steering geometry wrong. It is called the Ackerman Geometry; Your outside frontwheel ends up turning sharper than the inside wheel when steering.... to avoid this you need to get the steering knuckles on the outside of an imaginary line going from the center of the rear axles through the turning point on the front steering.... wich is not easy.
This problem was actually something old hot rodders used to battle whne building hotrods with the steering rod infront of the front axles... I had to learn it from hotrodder forums to apply it on my RC hotrod builds to make them steer better! LOL
edit: 14:59 You mention the ackerman, so I guess you know what to look out for! :D
Tips
You can make a chain drive differential out of a car diff.
You don’t need to put a rack and pinion in exactly the right place, you can put it almost anywhere near enough.
Methods.
Get the centre out of the diff and remove the crown wheel and replace with a chain sprocket.
Make a removable can to cover the spider gears so you can pack them with grease.
Create a mount to hold The bearings and mont the diff to the frame. If you are a bit creative you may add a locker mechanism.
Steering
Place the rack in a higher position than the place it would need to be to avoid bump steer etc.
You will be creating a solid rod between each wheel in a similar setup to old style steering box and idler arms
Run a bar parallel to the rack and pinion no more than 50 mm away from it but still clearing the bots and such , connect the tie rod ends coming out of the rack to this bar. You can now depending on how far away the bar is from the proper position connect it to the wheels for steering or by using ball joints and an idler arm to prevent flopping attach it to the steering through another link rod.
This method can be used on lifted trucks.
Dude, you're not afraid to tackle some big projects and I commend you on this one. But all the other buggies you built are insane off the hook too 🫶
great to see progress in the steering department. when i was over there a few weeks back you discussed moving the rack and pinion box to a different location and i think it was the right move.seems like the front suspension has plenty of "droop' and thats good when catching some air you need those wheels touching back to the ground as quickly as possible so as to steer. haha steering is important
Bring extra chains. They will break under load. Also, I believe that steering assembly is Rage with a “g”. Love the project though. Absolutely love it, good luck:).
This is going to sound like a chainsaw going down the road! 😂
I can’t wait to see it running, but I enjoy watching the process to get it there.
I've been watching you for a few years. This coming from a welder/fabricator of 25 years.... your design "eye" is excellent and your overall fab skills are second to none. Very talented in ALL aspects of fabrication and that's quite impressive. I hope your channel grows bigger than you ever wished for. Thank you for the great content.
This is the coolest thing you could build....imagine if you could make it road legal.
Hope you find this, I am loving your stuff. I have been watching your builds and the trophy truck is the favourite thus far. Can you please update your playlists for the builds, if you can. It would be easier to find all the videos related to the build.
So many chains. Looks crazy, but I have seen crazier rollercoasters.
That is a lot of chain to stretch
I drank a shot every time you said "bump steer", they let me go home from hospital today...
🤣🤣🤣
Thx for the vid!
👍👍👍
Man, I can't wait to see the finished product.
All good fun. You have a great job that I am jealous.
Loving this build Chris your a genius at this sort of turf love it learning heaps from your content 🥰🥰
And another impressive build !
I definitely learned something. If building a buggy, I should probably start with suspension and steering. then worry about how to get power to the ground.
I feel like hanging “truck” body skins on this would be so cool!!!!!
Two wheel drive trophy trucks are a real thing. 8-)
I have noticed that you like to have everything symmetrical but there are just times when that's not possible that's when you just get as close as possible I know I have the same issue but there's something I've learned and that is a majority of the time it will be unnoticeable when the project is finished it's an optical illusion that happens when your up close to the project working on it but it goes away when your standing away from the project this project is really coming along it's going to be really cool when it's done
ps. bump steer is less noticable on the dirt. than it is on the pavement where it has to be more precise.
a beer for each "steering" and a shot for each "bump steering" :)
Chris, you got it I cringed when you fitted the rack in between the sprocket and chain and I was shouting no fit it in the front most rack and pinions are in front it's a better arrangement for it and for you to steer and you have more scope for it so glad you came to the right decision fantastic build as always all the best from john from Rugby UK.
as long as the steering rack is consistent on the Z axis there should be no issue with putting longer steering arms on the front wheel assembly. for example, imagine the tab that the heim joint attaches to about 8 inches long and boxes in. seems like that would allow enough room for everything and still allow for proper alignment. in fact, if you make those tabs a bit longer your tiny bit of bump steer will completely go away.
i hope you do away with the front chain tensioners, they will be very noisy and the one thats clamped wont hold ,they have alot of tension to deal with and im certain will fail ,why not get the chain as tight as you can through the links and run them inside some plastic u section as a guide, in karting we use sprocket protectors on both sides of the sprocket to keep the chain aligned ,the bar running across could be bent to allow the chain a straight line on and off the sprocket ,other than that im loving the build and the channel
So good ii boss part11 👍👍✅✅💪💪
chains will gonna make hell of a noise
To cool. Can't wait to see it in action
Amazon has hinges and door handles for a Polaris for sale both sets under $70.00 just wanted you to know. At least take a look at them and see how they're made and you can make them. You are doing such a fantastic job on that buggie. Keep up the great work. 👍 👍👌and built💪.
Très bon travaille filicitation
Dude... you spend so much time just going back and forth and guessing what works. I highly recommend looking up xf motorsports and watching their suspension videos playlist.
And would it really kill you to draw some stuff at the very least on paper?
You should make Teflon chain track for the upper and lower sections for that long chain to reduce flapping.
Looks kick ass really coming along! And on your steering column rack, it doesn’t say latest race it says latest rage. Just wanted to let you know.👍🏼🤩❤️
wow amazing to see how the build is coming together so well good job👍
Some early RAV4's had their rack and pinion mounted high, and the outer tie rod end mount high on the strut tower. Maybe you could mount your rack high, make extension up from the knuckles, to get all the clearances you want?
The amount of chain drive is staggering...
You shouod be able to get ride of that bump steer if you can make some rack end spacers and make the tie rods a tad smaller.
Looking great
Looking really good 👌😁👍🎉 woohoo 🦇 from cruzermans inventions
Nice work 👍☮️
Nice work 👍
Excelent work!!! Best wishes from México!😎👌
All these chains look insane!!!! 😂 I kinda figured you would go with solid axles and use 4 link system
Solid Axles are slow
Latest rage, used lots of their parts for my buggy
Back end wull drag on the ground going up hill... should be 45° angeled up
Hi love your vid's keep it up
I can imagine the rear end receiving a cosmetic frame that would form the top of a truck bed, provided that you wish to have a typical Trophy Truck design.
Though if there will be a body shell, you may want to consider keeping the weight down with some polymer/fiberglass paneling.
Will be interesting to see you installing cantilever suspension in the front
Cool project, thanks for the videos! 👍👍
You’d probably get rid of the bump steer if you extended the length of the rods coming out of the steering rack to change the pivot point of the tie rod. Viny B has a great video on this.
If you use right angle boxes from a cub cadet or John Deere lawn mower some ford's and gravely mowers have them too you can run a drive shaft from your transmission to the front differential and have two small chains instead of one big long chain
You should find someone near you that races rc cars and talk to them about Ackerman steering and bump steer. If your geometry is correct, you should be able to have proper Ackerman and no bump steer, or at least be able to adjust your bump steer by placing/removing shims from your tiered mounting position. Keep up the great work!!
IDEA: Find a cheap junkyard truck cab and modify it to fit over your roll cage. Rat rodish. Keep up the awesome work.
Mount the rack on top of your upper frame rail and connect it to " high steer arms" off the top of the knuckles
If I remember, your frame is at 8 degrees. That is going to impact your steering, but most cars are somewhere at 10 degrees of caster. Probably all good. Caster is the important factor of camber during a turn.
Could you put the rack above or under the sprocket
great vids. looking forward to the next
Looks like the rack says,Latest Rage.
Chris your out loud mock up is very humbling. Sometimes engineering looks ugly, but works perfectly,
funny i just added steering to my cart today too
Did you think about reducing the size of the sprockets to the front wheel drive, to create more room for the steering?
Most of the force is going through the rear wheels under acceleration any way.
awesome build. only concern so far is if you lose that front drive chain, that steering rack will be trashed
You'd probably eliminate any bump steer if you brought the rack and pinion closer to the top inner pivot point of the upper arms or brought the arm on the spindle inwards
Glad your going with EPS on this rig, you will definitely need it. I wonder what options you have to reduce chain noise?
I still would like to see doors on this project though! lol
I think you might find that you’ll need to raise the rear end quite a bit to keep it off the ground when climbing hills, but that’s just an observation and could be wrong.
Looking great man
I think using alot of that Plastic cutting board material (can't remember what it's called) for chain sliders, it's would be longer lasting than delron material 🤔
@@anthonyreddy2834 we’ve always called it butcher block material lol but yeah that might work.
@@anthonyreddy2834 LDPE?