Has anyone had a clogged nozzle or thought they had a clogged nozzle? What was the issue if it wasn't a clogged nozzle, and how did you troubleshoot it?
Thank you very much for this informative video, I was having odd clogging issues for a while and didn't even think about heat creep, I have taken measures to reduce the potential and it seems to be working well now!
Thank you for the informative video . I would also love ways to avoid this from happening , because my filament consistently keeps on clogging the hotend. When I pull it out , there is a bulge on the end.
All great points but the order that you present these problems and fixes is in fringe>most likely which I don't like. In all likelihood a beginner needs to be told to just clean or replace their nozzle, not hear about checking their all metal heat break or enclosure being too hot lol.
so those nozzels in the picture at begining are still good and just need a blow torch or acetone to clean??? my nozzle seems to be printing good still but has black burnt material on outside of it.. i removed most with finger nail and tiny screw driver...but did not want to go crazy on it...then i releveled bed... thax
I'm printing PLA at 210 C. The nozzle is getting clogged for certain filaments like white and black. Other filaments like orange and neon green aren't causing any issues. Is this a heat creep problem ? Should I try using a lower temp of 200 C for white n black ?
My nozzle keeps clogging after not even one print causing clicking extruder and failed prints what should be happening. All of this happened when i changed fillament from a grey one to a black one both are pla
Helpful video: thanks. I am a 3D printing newbie and just experienced mt first nozzle blockage (using basic £99.99 Startt machine from iMakr). My solution was to heat the extruder to 240 C while pushing white PLA filament through manually: a black particle (from previous job) came through and the machine cleared. Great, although I suspect that some more expert bods might say I was just lucky!
learn to take apart your nozzle and heat sink thorat, and burn them on your cooking sotve or with a Teka or Bunsen burner occasionally to elimnate any traces of previous filament, than clean them well insisde with an exact diameter drill bit spun by hand only (you can put it in a drilling machine chuck, but do not use the motor to spin the bit at all). Also if your throat is inner coated with teflon or has a teflon tube, the teflon might have shrunk if the hot end reached occasionally over 240C, make some spare teflon tubes to replace them.
so to print with asa / abs i need fans off and enclosure closed, but to prevent nozzle clogs i need to leave the door open and fans on. Riiiiiiiight. 👍
Requesting assistance - I'm having clogging issues with esun PLA+. I've used this before and had great results once I figured out settings on my Ender 5. Recently, I've been doing longer print jobs with another spool and I've had to change the nozzle 5 times. Some of the prints don't even finish the 1st layer. I am printing at 210-215 & sometimes 220 (range of filament is 205-225), Bed - 70-75 (helps prevent warping), Nozzle - 0.4, Speed - 80 mm/s, Layer Height - 0.2, retraction - 80 mm/s & 6 mm.... I level the bed for every print, since I'm changing the nozzle & bed temp depending on what I'm printing. But the clogging is killing me, atm!! Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
@@hudsonroberge9897 I started having the fan turn on after the first layer, sometimes I turn it on manually once I've tuned the z-step. This keeps the nozzle from cooking the filament too much. So far, this has made a vast improvement. I still have to change the nozzle every so often, which I may choose to do at the start of a lengthy print.. nozzles are cheaper than the frustration of a clog. I also don't try to push the temp past 210.
I used PLA+ and experienced clogging right off the bat pretty much. Swapped that out for regular and still having issues. Buying a new hot end here really soon. Never touching + again. Before I went to plus it was doing great with regular (800 hours on that). Tried plus and wham broken. Stay with what works.
E-Sun PLA sucks, i had it tested on all my machines for a year, also PETG, ABS and otehrs same brand, their quality control is ... not. I found their filament to be cross contaminated with other filament bits that melt at different temperatures, so I ended up using their filament at higher temperartures to avoid clogging, and when done, never ever bought any E-Sun again.
Do you have an STL file for those sideburns. So if the filament is left in the nozzle after a print. does PLA melt as good as new or should i snip above the printer and extrude excess PLA before every print?
always push some PLA through the hotend as it stopped the print than pull it out, never leave filament in the machine overnight if not priniting anything, store in a place where it does not catch moisture or in a food dehydrator set at 40C running to keep it dry if you olive in a high humidity area like me (PLA, ABS or Nylon, PETG, raise at 80C).
I was using white pla and changed to black, which I've changed colors several times. But now when I extrude filament it comes out of the nozzle crooked. Changed to blue pla but every print I have tried fails. I used the acupuncture needle but can't get the filament to come out straight. New nozzle time?
learn to take apart your nozzle and heat sink throat, and burn them on your cooking stove or with a Tekla or Bunsen burner occasionally to elimnate any traces of previous filament, than clean them well insisde with an exact diameter drill bit spun by hand only (you can put it in a drilling machine chuck, but do not use the motor to spin the bit at all) to eliminate ashes, than put them in the way of tap water runniing full steal and observe the water coming out the other end. Also if your throat is inner coated with teflon or has a teflon tube, the teflon might have shrunk if the hot end reached occasionally over 240C, make some spare teflon tubes to replace them.
I put hairspray on my glass bed and the print nozzle got stuck on the 4th layer. I guess I had it to close and the hairspray was just thick enough to stop the head from moving. I should have run a test print and adjusted the bed as it was printing to compensate.
Religiously monitor visually the first few layers, mannualy adjust the Z screws on the flight while printing to match bed deformation under heat, it is never in the same spot. Once you are confident you are over the danger zone, you can go to sleep while the machine works. (Or go to your job as I do)
the fillament just stops comming out, ive tried pushing and pulling it and that doesnt work so its not the gear pushing the filllament up, i litaraly just changed the entire hotend and im still having this problem wtf is happening???
learn to take apart your nozzle and heat sink throat, and burn them on your cooking stove or with a Tekla or Bunsen burner occasionally to elimnate any traces of previous filament, than clean them well insisde with an exact diameter drill bit spun by hand only (you can put it in a drilling machine chuck, but do not use the motor to spin the bit at all) to eliminate ashes, than put them in the way of tap water runniing full steal and observe the water coming out the other end. Also if your throat is inner coated with teflon or has a teflon tube, the teflon might have shrunk if the hot end reached occasionally over 240C, make some spare teflon tubes to replace them.
You could also have your print nozzle too close to the bed. I went through and replaced the bowden tube and put a new nozzle on my printer...only to have the exact same problem...I then said "Crud, nozzle too close to the bed"...fixed. :)
I have a flashforge finder I bought from a guy. He says everything work but when I got home to test it out the 3d printer doesn't head up all the way. It heats up to 182 degrees Celsius and then it stops. I've check if it's the right power adapter and that is not the problem. Anyone have any idea what is causing this issue? I was wondering if a clogged nozzle could as contribute to the problem of why it is not heating all the way up?
your thermistor element might be broken, buy a few spare, they are cheap, also might be some bad line in the firmware, check that too (youtube is full of tutorials about that)
wood"Phils" or metal"Phils"... I see what you did there, maybe the new matterhackers "Philled" filament? (instead of filled, Philled for Phil, the matterhackers test print)
It's your problem if you cannot concentrate. FFS people are so entitled. Repeat after me: the content of the video and the appearance of the presenter are two different things. If the presenter was a fish and it spoke good english, I'd be fine with that. It's free content, man.
@@keymaster2108 check the Wikipedia page for Steam. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam Hydrogen is one of two elements that make up steam. It's a bit like saying hydrogen fluoride isn't a gas because it's made of hydrogen. Steam is water in its gas phase.
@@keymaster2108 That's exactly what it means. When a liquid boils it turns from the liquid phase to the gas phase. It transitions from a liquid into a gas. Just as ice is water in the solid phase, so is steam water in the gas phase.
Has anyone had a clogged nozzle or thought they had a clogged nozzle? What was the issue if it wasn't a clogged nozzle, and how did you troubleshoot it?
Can you link to the other videos mentioned in this video?
@@allyourcode Amen!
Could you PLEASE make yourself some 3d printed claws? you know... like wolverine's... :D
Not a clogged nozzle but my fan wasn’t working and it kept getting jammed.
right now my dad is making me fix the 3d printer and the nozzel is clogged i think.
i wish you had added a link to the complete cleaning guide you mentioned in the video.
Thank you very much for this informative video, I was having odd clogging issues for a while and didn't even think about heat creep, I have taken measures to reduce the potential and it seems to be working well now!
Nice, thanks for snaring😀👍
Great Video. Just had to give the PLA a good yank when it was cooling down. Good advice!
Thanks! Saved me hours maybe even returning the printer.
Thanks for the tip about the acupuncture needles, I have had several drill bits break on me =[
Thank you
My fillement still comes out great my print just stops about mid way into my print and my fillement gets chewed up
Thank you for the informative video . I would also love ways to avoid this from happening , because my filament consistently keeps on clogging the hotend. When I pull it out , there is a bulge on the end.
Your first point just made my problem to understand
Thanks
Nice video, Having issues after changing nozzle, extruding too thick filament any Ideas?
Great video
Cool exactly the problem with my printer.. thank you so much
All great points but the order that you present these problems and fixes is in fringe>most likely which I don't like. In all likelihood a beginner needs to be told to just clean or replace their nozzle, not hear about checking their all metal heat break or enclosure being too hot lol.
so those nozzels in the picture at begining are still good and just need a blow torch or acetone to clean??? my nozzle seems to be printing good still but has black burnt material on outside of it.. i removed most with finger nail and tiny screw driver...but did not want to go crazy on it...then i releveled bed... thax
Clog nozz is my favorite rapper
I'm printing PLA at 210 C. The nozzle is getting clogged for certain filaments like white and black. Other filaments like orange and neon green aren't causing any issues. Is this a heat creep problem ? Should I try using a lower temp of 200 C for white n black ?
My nozzle keeps clogging after not even one print causing clicking extruder and failed prints what should be happening. All of this happened when i changed fillament from a grey one to a black one both are pla
Helpful video: thanks.
I am a 3D printing newbie and just experienced mt first nozzle blockage (using basic £99.99 Startt machine from iMakr). My solution was to heat the extruder to 240 C while pushing white PLA filament through manually: a black particle (from previous job) came through and the machine cleared. Great, although I suspect that some more expert bods might say I was just lucky!
learn to take apart your nozzle and heat sink thorat, and burn them on your cooking sotve or with a Teka or Bunsen burner occasionally to elimnate any traces of previous filament, than clean them well insisde with an exact diameter drill bit spun by hand only (you can put it in a drilling machine chuck, but do not use the motor to spin the bit at all). Also if your throat is inner coated with teflon or has a teflon tube, the teflon might have shrunk if the hot end reached occasionally over 240C, make some spare teflon tubes to replace them.
so to print with asa / abs i need fans off and enclosure closed, but to prevent nozzle clogs i need to leave the door open and fans on. Riiiiiiiight. 👍
How do i make it print slower
The sideburns ain’t it G
I guess I'll try these procedures before I can all of my MH Filament.
I wonder if you remove the nozzle and bake it in toaster oven would work.
Maybe 300 degrees?
Dude, is wolverine your grand father?
Requesting assistance - I'm having clogging issues with esun PLA+. I've used this before and had great results once I figured out settings on my Ender 5. Recently, I've been doing longer print jobs with another spool and I've had to change the nozzle 5 times. Some of the prints don't even finish the 1st layer. I am printing at 210-215 & sometimes 220 (range of filament is 205-225), Bed - 70-75 (helps prevent warping), Nozzle - 0.4, Speed - 80 mm/s, Layer Height - 0.2, retraction - 80 mm/s & 6 mm.... I level the bed for every print, since I'm changing the nozzle & bed temp depending on what I'm printing. But the clogging is killing me, atm!!
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Did you fix it? And how?
@@hudsonroberge9897 I started having the fan turn on after the first layer, sometimes I turn it on manually once I've tuned the z-step. This keeps the nozzle from cooking the filament too much. So far, this has made a vast improvement. I still have to change the nozzle every so often, which I may choose to do at the start of a lengthy print.. nozzles are cheaper than the frustration of a clog. I also don't try to push the temp past 210.
I used PLA+ and experienced clogging right off the bat pretty much. Swapped that out for regular and still having issues. Buying a new hot end here really soon. Never touching + again. Before I went to plus it was doing great with regular (800 hours on that). Tried plus and wham broken. Stay with what works.
E-Sun PLA sucks, i had it tested on all my machines for a year, also PETG, ABS and otehrs same brand, their quality control is ... not. I found their filament to be cross contaminated with other filament bits that melt at different temperatures, so I ended up using their filament at higher temperartures to avoid clogging, and when done, never ever bought any E-Sun again.
Do you have an STL file for those sideburns.
So if the filament is left in the nozzle after a print. does PLA melt as good as new or should i snip above the printer and extrude excess PLA before every print?
always push some PLA through the hotend as it stopped the print than pull it out, never leave filament in the machine overnight if not priniting anything, store in a place where it does not catch moisture or in a food dehydrator set at 40C running to keep it dry if you olive in a high humidity area like me (PLA, ABS or Nylon, PETG, raise at 80C).
I was using white pla and changed to black, which I've changed colors several times. But now when I extrude filament it comes out of the nozzle crooked. Changed to blue pla but every print I have tried fails.
I used the acupuncture needle but can't get the filament to come out straight. New nozzle time?
learn to take apart your nozzle and heat sink throat, and burn them on your cooking stove or with a Tekla or Bunsen burner occasionally to elimnate any traces of previous filament, than clean them well insisde with an exact diameter drill bit spun by hand only (you can put it in a drilling machine chuck, but do not use the motor to spin the bit at all) to eliminate ashes, than put them in the way of tap water runniing full steal and observe the water coming out the other end. Also if your throat is inner coated with teflon or has a teflon tube, the teflon might have shrunk if the hot end reached occasionally over 240C, make some spare teflon tubes to replace them.
I don't understand 1:25
Why would I use an enclosure if I have to leave the door open?
1:12
He said that IF you are using an enclosure. THEN leave your door open.
Oh that nice to know
I put hairspray on my glass bed and the print nozzle got stuck on the 4th layer. I guess I had it to close and the hairspray was just thick enough to stop the head from moving. I should have run a test print and adjusted the bed as it was printing to compensate.
Religiously monitor visually the first few layers, mannualy adjust the Z screws on the flight while printing to match bed deformation under heat, it is never in the same spot. Once you are confident you are over the danger zone, you can go to sleep while the machine works. (Or go to your job as I do)
sideburns
where is the video on how to remove the nozzle?
I was actually looking for something that had visual cues and what not myself
the fillament just stops comming out, ive tried pushing and pulling it and that doesnt work so its not the gear pushing the filllament up, i litaraly just changed the entire hotend and im still having this problem wtf is happening???
learn to take apart your nozzle and heat sink throat, and burn them on your cooking stove or with a Tekla or Bunsen burner occasionally to elimnate any traces of previous filament, than clean them well insisde with an exact diameter drill bit spun by hand only (you can put it in a drilling machine chuck, but do not use the motor to spin the bit at all) to eliminate ashes, than put them in the way of tap water runniing full steal and observe the water coming out the other end. Also if your throat is inner coated with teflon or has a teflon tube, the teflon might have shrunk if the hot end reached occasionally over 240C, make some spare teflon tubes to replace them.
You could also have your print nozzle too close to the bed. I went through and replaced the bowden tube and put a new nozzle on my printer...only to have the exact same problem...I then said "Crud, nozzle too close to the bed"...fixed. :)
that is something to monitor visually at EVERY single print start. Religiously.
Hi 3d printer is not letting filament out I changed the hot in but still not working please help
Please gmail me at hunger2471@gmail.com
I have a flashforge finder I bought from a guy. He says everything work but when I got home to test it out the 3d printer doesn't head up all the way. It heats up to 182 degrees Celsius and then it stops. I've check if it's the right power adapter and that is not the problem. Anyone have any idea what is causing this issue? I was wondering if a clogged nozzle could as contribute to the problem of why it is not heating all the way up?
your thermistor element might be broken, buy a few spare, they are cheap, also might be some bad line in the firmware, check that too (youtube is full of tutorials about that)
This shit is way too difficult. Who wants to buy my 3d printer?
that beard 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Shit is rad
It's impolite and socially not acceptable to laugh at people's appearances.
wood"Phils" or metal"Phils"... I see what you did there, maybe the new matterhackers "Philled" filament? (instead of filled, Philled for Phil, the matterhackers test print)
Whats up withe beard dude ? Sheesh
😂
please cut your beard because when you cut your beard you will be handsome
god please put up some bulletin points or something instead of these long ass monologues please.
shut up jim
Those sideburns look horrendous. I couldn't pay attention to the video, for the love of god, shave them off.
I think they look great especially with the hat seen in other videos. No homo
It's your problem if you cannot concentrate. FFS people are so entitled. Repeat after me: the content of the video and the appearance of the presenter are two different things. If the presenter was a fish and it spoke good english, I'd be fine with that. It's free content, man.
Looks exactly like Mungo Jerry
Your the guy who thinks steam is a gas. Not sure if you should be teaching
Steam is a gas.
@@DeShark88 Steam is not a gas but steam can be converted to gas it's called hydrogen.
@@keymaster2108 check the Wikipedia page for Steam. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam
Hydrogen is one of two elements that make up steam. It's a bit like saying hydrogen fluoride isn't a gas because it's made of hydrogen. Steam is water in its gas phase.
@@DeShark88 Gas phase does not mean gas
@@keymaster2108 That's exactly what it means. When a liquid boils it turns from the liquid phase to the gas phase. It transitions from a liquid into a gas. Just as ice is water in the solid phase, so is steam water in the gas phase.
YOUR BEARD GIVES US A BAD NAME