What even is this comment? Really? 😂 sorry I’ll go return my “I’m a REAL 3D printer” license to the nearest office ASAP, your royal highness 🤡 Go leave dumb comments on someone else’s video. And to everyone else. Be constructive not destructive. Gatekeeping and acting like this clown is the best way to sour the punch bowl for everyone. No room for it here.
Ah yes, with this logic, if someone doesn't know how to do an oil change, that means they don't actually know how to drive a car. Your comment makes no sense. How can a cosplayer be a 3D printer? A 3D printer is a machine. It is physically impossible for a human to be a 3D printer. They can be 3D printer operators, which in this case, Frank is a 3D printer operator, because he... wait, I'm about to blow your mind... operates 3D printers. Oh, and again using your ignorant logic, we should also take away the title of "cosplayer" from a lot of people, because some don't make their own costumes, can't sew, don't own a 3D printer, don't know how to work with foam, can't do makeup, because playing in costume (cosplay) requires all of that, just like someone "being a 3D printer" should require the knowledge and skill of being able to print with EVERY SINGLE filament type, including the ever-famously difficult filament that is TPU. Reading your comment left me with 2 brain cells, which are competing with each other for 3rd place.
Who are you (a person with a single measly subscriber and no videos posted) of all people to say that Frankly Built, a cosplayer (who does this for fun, yet has over 778k subscribers) that he's pathetic? Though Frank already responded to you, what the heck, man. This guy decides not to print TPU because it's his choice to do what he wants, and he's decided that he doesn't want to. If he actually wanted to, and he spent time practicing, I'm sure, given his knowledge in this field, that he could get some dang near perfect TPU prints, but as it seems, he doesn't. Love you Frankly. Keep up the great work! 😁👍
I can't believe I hadn't heard of this type of filament before, considering all of the other ones I've heard of. I will defiantly be trying this out in the near future and comparing it to my TPU. Thanks for sharing you're knowledge.
Last night I was actually testing painting a latex mask with acrylic and seeing if it would stick. Cheap walmart paint didn't work. Currently have a little test spot of Plaid FX drying to see if that will work. Same color as your shirt actually! 😅 If that doesn''t work then I'll see what else I can look into. Possibly leather paint or even mixing this acrylic with some liquid latex.
I can think of so e things, like flexible parts for in joints like elbows and such. Even helmet seals would work well, so a helmet can be closed closer around the neck. Heck probably even under-suit stuff like the halo reach flexible bits. You could even print a batman cowl with this stuff
YESSSS! Printing the hands/ fingers with this I think would be nice! My hands get eaten up with the hard plastic. And the shoe covers! I think ima try this! Thanks!
Hey there! I just wanted to drop by and say thank you for creating that amazing video about 3D printed flexible cosplay armor. It was so helpful and informative, and I learned a lot from it. Your attention to detail and willingness to share your knowledge really shines through in your videos, and I can't wait to see what you come up with next. Keep up the great work!
A paint tip. you can get a automotive paintshop to make you a paint that haave softner in it so it wont crack. RC car paint have it in them. it will make your life alot easyer to paint flex.
8:51 About discoloration of PLA after sanding; if you very lightly go over the affected area with a high temp heat gun/ butane lighter, it will bring the normal color back for the most part after sanding A simple butane lighter has been one of my most valuable tools for 3D printing. I also use it for getting rid of stringing. As long as you hit the area for a second or two from a good distance, it won’t hurt your print
This is exciting!! I am very much a novice at printing, but have been experimenting with more stuff lately. Been wanting to try TPU but without a direct drive printer I've been hesitant to try on my bowden-tube printer (I've read that some stiffer shore hardness TPU may work). But now with this stuff... hell yeah I'm going to get some right away and see what I can do with it!! Awesome stuff man! Your armors always come out looking fantastic!
Tips that I learned from Kamui Cosplay and her eva foam and dealing with flexible paint: the plastidip is great but you want to put the can in some real warm water, get the coating up to around 80-90F. This lets it flot and end smoother. It can then be smoothed further with mineral spirits. Hobby Lobby also carries some eva foam paint that is designed to be very flexible for use on foam but you'll be airbrushing. Hope it helps and future iterations and always appreciate your vids!
Hey this is dope! You mentioned leather paint finishes? I'm building a hard leather armor Samus costume for my sister, and am struggling with the paint finish. Could you do a tutorial perhaps?
Instead of the plastidips I would suggest trying "Trim & Bumper" paint & clear as your prime & topcoat - the plastidip paint doesn't bond tightly to anything but itself, and T&B is formulated specifically for flexible urethanes...
Hey Frankly, I love your videos, and I gotta say, they have definitely given me some help with printer problems. But I have a request. Is there any chance you can try to print some things with this flexible filament for me? I just want to know if it would work to print arrow fletching and earbud "Marshmellows". I don't want to buy a roll of this flexible stuff just to find out it doesn't do what I want. Thanks Frankly!
Can anyone answer if this brand and the flexible pla food safe? i know generally pla is food safe but was wondering if the same applies for this brand and material. Thank you
Would making an actual segmented neck piece be beyond your ability? I assume that individual segments would need to be rather thin, which would make them quite fragile when printed with normal stiff PLA, but with this flexible stuff?..
I've had a lot of trouble trying to get this to print on my Bowden Ender 3 Pro. I have a Seemecnc EZR extruder on it and was told it would work for flexible filament, but the gears slip on it and after too long of a print it just pancakes the filament in the extruder.
Another great video. I always appreciate how along with your tips, you emphasize that everyone needs to experiment with different techniques and materials to find out what works best for them. Now I'm going to get some of this flexible PLA to try, hopefully before it is sold out on account of your recomendation!
I've been working on Vegeta's battle armor and started by using pla and even though it was a proper fit. My shoulders got in the way. I'm also using flex pla and will see from there
Hey, I was wondering if you have tried connecting 2 pieces made of FPLA together? For example, you have a gauntlet and want to fuse the fingers to the palm, or maybe 2 chest pieces into one? Thanks in Advance!!
It's fairly easy to tell though? The paint came out darker and the gloss feels very plasticky on the flexible one. Will anyone honestly notice in practice? No, probably not without closer inspection. But it's definitely noticeable, even when just comparing the neck piece to the chest piece side-by-side.
Loved it :) But what is your best way to get supports and raft off. If you could respond I would really appreciate it. I'm a beginner and I need some help. :)
Working with this material treated just like as you were working on rubber parts on a vehicle I use automotive paint and clearcoat. Do you have a flexible additive to add to the clearcoat?
Can you experiment with fussing two flexible prints together? I’d like to print a full size cowel but would need to split it into two pieces. If I can’t fuse them together and had the fuse with sanding paint etc. it won’t be worth it to me.
hey just a fyi sunlu sales a filiment holder that is sealed up and the filiment goes through a hole in the glass and you can use the heater if you want but i have never had to yet. but my flexable pla does not act funny from the water in the air check it out. i have one on each of my printers and my filiment works better with them
That's definitely an upgrade to the madness of fine tuning slicer settings for Ninjaflex and standard TPU. I'm definitely interested in getting some now to experiment with. Thanks for the tips and tricks, Frank!
This is definitely a game changer! Been waiting for this video since the instagram updates. Seems to be exactly what I need for my Halo undersuit. Do you think it'll be possible to pla weld these or would that not be worth the effort? Thanks for all the info!
In Cura you can enable a setting that lets you print rafts and supports with a different filament if you have a printer with a dual extruder, so that could be another option for printing them without them being flexible as well
Awesome quality content as always Frank. What I would like to suggest and think you might consider is looking into a material called SBS. I’m not sure how many international manufacturers make filament with it, but we have some incredible stuff here in South Africa from FilX. It’s more flexible than PLA, great layer adhesion, not hygroscopic and the best part, it smooths with Limonene! Safe with no harsh smells or health risks! Keep the good stuff coming!
Thank you so much for these kinds of videos! Very informative! One more thing, did you smell anything when using these filaments? Do you think it’d be safe in a normal room?
click on this video as I'm printing with ATARAXIA ART to make a phone case... I made some flexible dinos for my nephew with these and hand painted them with acrylics. Tips and tricks?: It takes some time and can be a little hard to do, but I used a lower temp soldering iron to smooth out layer lines on the Dino to make it look like an injection molded part. Flat tips would work best. You don't want to go too hot, it will discolor or warp, but a lower temp and it is fairly workable. Holes can be filled in also with spare filament like standard pla prints as well. But that also takes some care to not mess it up worse. It takes a steady hand, but gives good results if you are patient.
I noticed you have very few options in each section. Do you use expert/advance settings and just hide them or do you use just the bare bones simple profiles?
lolol i love when cosplayers think they are real 3d printers, but they cant print tpu. loolol your better off with cardboard buddy. pathetic
What even is this comment? Really? 😂 sorry I’ll go return my “I’m a REAL 3D printer” license to the nearest office ASAP, your royal highness 🤡
Go leave dumb comments on someone else’s video.
And to everyone else. Be constructive not destructive. Gatekeeping and acting like this clown is the best way to sour the punch bowl for everyone. No room for it here.
No true scotsman fallacy alert over here ! So sad, So sad.
Ah yes, with this logic, if someone doesn't know how to do an oil change, that means they don't actually know how to drive a car. Your comment makes no sense. How can a cosplayer be a 3D printer? A 3D printer is a machine. It is physically impossible for a human to be a 3D printer. They can be 3D printer operators, which in this case, Frank is a 3D printer operator, because he... wait, I'm about to blow your mind... operates 3D printers. Oh, and again using your ignorant logic, we should also take away the title of "cosplayer" from a lot of people, because some don't make their own costumes, can't sew, don't own a 3D printer, don't know how to work with foam, can't do makeup, because playing in costume (cosplay) requires all of that, just like someone "being a 3D printer" should require the knowledge and skill of being able to print with EVERY SINGLE filament type, including the ever-famously difficult filament that is TPU. Reading your comment left me with 2 brain cells, which are competing with each other for 3rd place.
Who are you (a person with a single measly subscriber and no videos posted) of all people to say that Frankly Built, a cosplayer (who does this for fun, yet has over 778k subscribers) that he's pathetic? Though Frank already responded to you, what the heck, man. This guy decides not to print TPU because it's his choice to do what he wants, and he's decided that he doesn't want to. If he actually wanted to, and he spent time practicing, I'm sure, given his knowledge in this field, that he could get some dang near perfect TPU prints, but as it seems, he doesn't. Love you Frankly. Keep up the great work! 😁👍
Gatekeeping ass mf, bro. Please scrub that dark dirty neck of yours with baking soda.
Put "plastidip" cans in hot water for about 5 mins before spraying. It really helps. Although I've had cracking issues with the dupicolor brand.
Does flexible pla crack?
@fleekyfriday you mean TPU? I havent played around with that filament yet.
I can't believe I hadn't heard of this type of filament before, considering all of the other ones I've heard of. I will defiantly be trying this out in the near future and comparing it to my TPU.
Thanks for sharing you're knowledge.
I'm so happy this is a thing now, 3d printed batman cowls might actually work now
Last night I was actually testing painting a latex mask with acrylic and seeing if it would stick. Cheap walmart paint didn't work. Currently have a little test spot of Plaid FX drying to see if that will work. Same color as your shirt actually! 😅 If that doesn''t work then I'll see what else I can look into. Possibly leather paint or even mixing this acrylic with some liquid latex.
This stuff is a game changer for 3d print cosplay. Can’t wait to see what it’s used for!!
I can think of so e things, like flexible parts for in joints like elbows and such. Even helmet seals would work well, so a helmet can be closed closer around the neck. Heck probably even under-suit stuff like the halo reach flexible bits. You could even print a batman cowl with this stuff
I bet you could even print armor like stormtrooper armor and it be a lot more easy to move in and be able to sit down in it
Just received my printer Wednesday and was looking for info on this yesterday. Incredible.
Also meant to tell you I'm jealous of your new workshop. Love to have a maker space half as nice. Except for that pesky 'poltergeist' at 16:30! 😊
I'm no cosplayer, but I am really interested in the potential for this stuff to make soft goods for 1/12 scale action figures (capes, skirts, etc). 😊
This was my first thought as well!
Doll accessories too! This stuff could be a good alternative to flexible resin. :O
YESSSS! Printing the hands/ fingers with this I think would be nice! My hands get eaten up with the hard plastic. And the shoe covers! I think ima try this! Thanks!
I look forward to printing out my halo armor undersuit with this stuff on the neck area and in between the stiff pieces
Definitely want to try this for the same reasons kneck cover, I was having issues with tpu cracking. Thank you for sharing
Hey there! I just wanted to drop by and say thank you for creating that amazing video about 3D printed flexible cosplay armor. It was so helpful and informative, and I learned a lot from it. Your attention to detail and willingness to share your knowledge really shines through in your videos, and I can't wait to see what you come up with next. Keep up the great work!
A paint tip. you can get a automotive paintshop to make you a paint that haave softner in it so it wont crack. RC car paint have it in them. it will make your life alot easyer to paint flex.
thats dope
I am in the process of printing the blue beetle, armor and sword.
8:51 About discoloration of PLA after sanding; if you very lightly go over the affected area with a high temp heat gun/ butane lighter, it will bring the normal color back for the most part after sanding
A simple butane lighter has been one of my most valuable tools for 3D printing. I also use it for getting rid of stringing. As long as you hit the area for a second or two from a good distance, it won’t hurt your print
Awesome thanks really informative as always 👍👍👍👏👏👏
I bought some of the Ataraxia F-PLA a couple months ago and found it easy to print. Have t tried painting it though.
This is exciting!! I am very much a novice at printing, but have been experimenting with more stuff lately. Been wanting to try TPU but without a direct drive printer I've been hesitant to try on my bowden-tube printer (I've read that some stiffer shore hardness TPU may work). But now with this stuff... hell yeah I'm going to get some right away and see what I can do with it!!
Awesome stuff man! Your armors always come out looking fantastic!
Tips that I learned from Kamui Cosplay and her eva foam and dealing with flexible paint: the plastidip is great but you want to put the can in some real warm water, get the coating up to around 80-90F. This lets it flot and end smoother. It can then be smoothed further with mineral spirits. Hobby Lobby also carries some eva foam paint that is designed to be very flexible for use on foam but you'll be airbrushing.
Hope it helps and future iterations and always appreciate your vids!
Hey man love the vids❤❤❤❤❤ you are the reason I made a lifesized Mando helmet!!!!
Hey frank, how well do you think this stuff would bounce? im trying to make the super expensive wilson ball bc funny
Great review of techniques using flex PLA! What about welding FPLA for those who have smaller 3D printers?
I would be curious to try resin smoothing it with a flexible resin like SirayaTech's Tenacious.
Flexible resin may work!
Hey Frank! Love the videos. I was wondering if the Egeloo Neptune 3 Pro is able to print this flexible PLA?
Flexible PLA has been around for a ling time now. Rigidink (r.i.p.) used to sell a very nice one.
sick stuff
Hey this is dope! You mentioned leather paint finishes? I'm building a hard leather armor Samus costume for my sister, and am struggling with the paint finish. Could you do a tutorial perhaps?
Instead of the plastidips I would suggest trying "Trim & Bumper" paint & clear as your prime & topcoat - the plastidip paint doesn't bond tightly to anything but itself, and T&B is formulated specifically for flexible urethanes...
What about hydro dipping with clearcoat?
Do you think the flexible PLA filament will be good enough to make a cosplay belt because I’m trying to make one for my flash suit.
Could you please share how do you remove the print from the bed? It sticks too strong and nearly impossible to scrape it off
Hey Frankly, I love your videos, and I gotta say, they have definitely given me some help with printer problems. But I have a request. Is there any chance you can try to print some things with this flexible filament for me? I just want to know if it would work to print arrow fletching and earbud "Marshmellows". I don't want to buy a roll of this flexible stuff just to find out it doesn't do what I want. Thanks Frankly!
hi just wondered if you have seen Kersey Fabrications on youtube 3D Printed Iron Man Helmet with Fully-Functional Heads Up Display
How did you get it to work with a bowden tube? I tried it on my k1 max and it keeps clogging in the nozzle.
Try TPC (Shore 45D) instead auf TPU print like PLA with no stringing
Was wondering can you this make good wheels
When scaling a suit to your body. Can you make it bigger than what the file comes as?
Always
Can anyone answer if this brand and the flexible pla food safe? i know generally pla is food safe but was wondering if the same applies for this brand and material. Thank you
Would the settings you used for the pro be good to use for an anycubic kobra max?
lore wise those pieces would be different matierials since the majority of the suit is rigid
Would making an actual segmented neck piece be beyond your ability? I assume that individual segments would need to be rather thin, which would make them quite fragile when printed with normal stiff PLA, but with this flexible stuff?..
Nah it just honestly would be overkill really IMO
hay is the wizmaker p1 a good first printer
Never used it
ok ty for responding
Anyone found a semi-transparent flex? Have a design for some armor with WS2812 illumination, so even translucent color isn't an option.
This will greatly improve cosplay. Now the world knows about it because of your amazing vids! ❤
Great coverage on this! I'm curious, have you tried PLA welding it to other flexible PLA or even the standard PLA to see if it hold up?
Oh man Ive had some of this for a few months now and never used it. Crazy excited now to try it out
I've had a lot of trouble trying to get this to print on my Bowden Ender 3 Pro. I have a Seemecnc EZR extruder on it and was told it would work for flexible filament, but the gears slip on it and after too long of a print it just pancakes the filament in the extruder.
I’m making a new suit so I’m definitely using this for it’s nexk
If you use an air brush or paint gun, you could probably add an automotive paint flex additive to the base coat and the clear coat.
Hello! I would like to know if someone has already managed to remove the printing lines from Flexible PLA.
Another great video. I always appreciate how along with your tips, you emphasize that everyone needs to experiment with different techniques and materials to find out what works best for them. Now I'm going to get some of this flexible PLA to try, hopefully before it is sold out on account of your recomendation!
I've been working on Vegeta's battle armor and started by using pla and even though it was a proper fit. My shoulders got in the way. I'm also using flex pla and will see from there
would you know if you could place this material inside an AQUARIUM... Would it be fish safe and not dissolve under water
Hey, I was wondering if you have tried connecting 2 pieces made of FPLA together? For example, you have a gauntlet and want to fuse the fingers to the palm, or maybe 2 chest pieces into one? Thanks in Advance!!
Now this is a flex. Bend the rules for cosplay frank!
I have a question, I have a model of the flash cowl, would I be able to print that with flexible material? Or would it be to heavy to print upright?
Great video! Can you run Flexible material through a FLSun SR? I can't seem to find the answer.
Thanks
It's fairly easy to tell though? The paint came out darker and the gloss feels very plasticky on the flexible one. Will anyone honestly notice in practice? No, probably not without closer inspection. But it's definitely noticeable, even when just comparing the neck piece to the chest piece side-by-side.
Loved it :) But what is your best way to get supports and raft off. If you could respond I would really appreciate it. I'm a beginner and I need some help. :)
Aww man, I tried looking up and while we do have Flashforge in Poland, no store sells the Ataraxia PLA. Oh well, maybe in a few weeks.
Working with this material treated just like as you were working on rubber parts on a vehicle I use automotive paint and clearcoat. Do you have a flexible additive to add to the clearcoat?
i found you on TikTok last year and i just got my first 3D Printer last week! i've been binging your videos since!
Ordered some flash forge as I'm scared of tpu 😂 need a neck for a 46 and a 49, the 49 is supposed to fit insanely tight
Have you used the measuring tool in Cura before? If so how accurate was it?
Would the flexible pla be able to be used with regular pla in a multi filament printer to make hybrid parts?
Super cool, thanks for the video on this man.
3D printed Clone/Stormtrooper armor would benefit so greatly from this material.
Can you experiment with fussing two flexible prints together? I’d like to print a full size cowel but would need to split it into two pieces. If I can’t fuse them together and had the fuse with sanding paint etc. it won’t be worth it to me.
Ok. Got it to 140mm/s perimeters and 100mm/s external perimeters with no problem lol
I think you could make some serious cash by turning the chest plate into motorcycle faring.
Do you think that this would work on a faster printer like the K1 Max at a slower speed?
I’m suprised that you still haven’t made an elicudator, a sword from one of the most popular sword animes
hey just a fyi sunlu sales a filiment holder that is sealed up and the filiment goes through a hole in the glass and you can use the heater if you want but i have never had to yet. but my flexable pla does not act funny from the water in the air check it out. i have one on each of my printers and my filiment works better with them
I wonder what would happen if you used flexible UV resin to help smooth it
Ive been using the ataraxia art for a month now to make swords and knifes and it just works so well
Can you make a cyber man helpmate? It’s from the bbc show doctor who
Im really gonna watch your amazing videos so I will learn to make my own suit
16:31 / 19:21 Tony Stark Came back for his suit
When you smooth it do you just sand it like regular pla?
What if u made the neck piece jointed and used a mix of normal pla and flexible pla
He snapped that like nothing
You could try using flexible UV resin as a filler first
i wonder if you use a mosaic pallete and use pla as supports would be helpful
That's definitely an upgrade to the madness of fine tuning slicer settings for Ninjaflex and standard TPU. I'm definitely interested in getting some now to experiment with. Thanks for the tips and tricks, Frank!
This is definitely a game changer! Been waiting for this video since the instagram updates. Seems to be exactly what I need for my Halo undersuit. Do you think it'll be possible to pla weld these or would that not be worth the effort? Thanks for all the info!
In Cura you can enable a setting that lets you print rafts and supports with a different filament if you have a printer with a dual extruder, so that could be another option for printing them without them being flexible as well
I try to follow all your videos. I find them very educational and informative so far. No I’ve got about 14 printers, some resin and some FDM.
I just happened to be using this stuff this week and had all kinds of problems. Fun stuff for sure.
Is Flexible PLA also elastic? or is it like a solid object that can be bent and twisted and still keep its shape?
Awesome quality content as always Frank.
What I would like to suggest and think you might consider is looking into a material called SBS. I’m not sure how many international manufacturers make filament with it, but we have some incredible stuff here in South Africa from FilX. It’s more flexible than PLA, great layer adhesion, not hygroscopic and the best part, it smooths with Limonene! Safe with no harsh smells or health risks!
Keep the good stuff coming!
Imperial surfaces for paint
Thanks Frank!!! I’ve been waiting for this video for a while! Once again another Great Video!!!
Nice Bare Bones machete in the garage!
Love this stuff. Really grateful for your vids sharing learning curves. Saves us all time and effort and money.
Thank you so much for these kinds of videos! Very informative! One more thing, did you smell anything when using these filaments? Do you think it’d be safe in a normal room?
click on this video as I'm printing with ATARAXIA ART to make a phone case... I made some flexible dinos for my nephew with these and hand painted them with acrylics. Tips and tricks?: It takes some time and can be a little hard to do, but I used a lower temp soldering iron to smooth out layer lines on the Dino to make it look like an injection molded part. Flat tips would work best. You don't want to go too hot, it will discolor or warp, but a lower temp and it is fairly workable. Holes can be filled in also with spare filament like standard pla prints as well. But that also takes some care to not mess it up worse. It takes a steady hand, but gives good results if you are patient.
What's the best printer?
people could make their own custom shoes for their cosplay with this stuff!
I noticed you have very few options in each section. Do you use expert/advance settings and just hide them or do you use just the bare bones simple profiles?
What I show is what I use normally. I don’t open a bunch of other settings and change stuff. It works fine this way IMO
@@FranklyBuilt and here I am with the entire laundry list of options changed and tweaks....thanks for your time.