I just put in an order for leather dying items. When you get as source for great information be sure to show support by buying things from them. This guy is full of energy and knowledge. Never meandering and well edited. It takes time to do these videos. Subscribe Notify and Patronize It’s a snap. Couldn’t resist.
Hi Chuck, Old Leather Smith here, when I started a loooong time ago I went 2 a friend and asked 4 a good cutting service, He owned a glass shop, he gave me a rear window from a Semi- tractor, he told me that he swaps them out 4 a split window the drivers can open. Makes a great cutting service, and the blades U use stay sharper longer, by the way it's the same size as your 4 pieces of pondo board. Thanks 4 your videos. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
I had asked previously about what the black cutting surface on your work table was. Now I know! Poundo board! I'll check that out. Thanks Chuck. This should be a great series. Don't forget your tool rack for your leather tooling tools. I copied yours as soon as I first saw it. I made mine where it hangs on the wall above my tooling table using a french cleat system so I can move it around. It doesn't take up any table space that way.
I built my main table as a 4’ x 8’ table at 40” high to bring my work up above my waist. I’ve been very happy with that height. The bench top is 2x4’s and I have a 2’ x 2’ piece of granite countersunk in the middle of the front to be flush with the top.
I'd been hoping to find someone cover this topic, and you did it. My current work surface started out as a 4' x 4' plywood whelping box. I flipped it upside down and it's currently sitting on top of three metal shelving units I had. They're not quite as tall as I'd like. It's in my living room, and was being used as a quilting cutting and ironing table, and now starting to share those duties with leather. I have too many hobbies. I'm looking forward to future leather elements covering shop elements.
I have finally gotten a house where we have a craft room. Been living in a 5th for decades as a traveling nurse but hit the time in our lives to settle down. We now have a "craft room" for leather work and my wife's beading. I made a work bench fashioned after what you talked about in this video. It was a great help to figuring dimensions. Mine is 3 foot by 8 foot. I am still to add on the addition for the granite for tooling. It is working great to far. I took some time to where to attach the press but did that the other day. One addition that I did was add a second shelf 3.5 inches below the structure of the top and I am using that to lay flat all the leather that should be laid flat such at my 5 to 6 and 7 to 9 ounces veggie tans. I know it won't hold it all but it is a great start to getting that leather flat. I am tired of working with veggie tan that rolls up when you lay it out to cut. Thank you again for this very informative and helpful video. Keep up the great work.
My main work table is 18"x24". It's plywood covered with duct tape, and then I have one if those green cutting boards that fits perfectly. It's less than ideal, but I've pumped out alot of cool stuff on that- masks, hats, holsters, sheathes, tool pouches, belts(yes, belts), bracelets, dice trays, even armor. Actually just finished a really cool filigree project with a deep blue suede. I can't wait till I have the space for a bigger table, but for now, this one works.
I like this tip. I'm in the process of revamping my workbench and this helps me out immensely. i never thought of using an overhang for some of my templates, Great tip. i agree with using poundo board for cutting.
Subject for a segment- Working with rawhide. I purchased a large piece from Weaver with the idea of using small strips for edge protection for drawknives and curved edge tools. Cutting to size and thickness has me stumped. Thanks for considering.
Good table tips there Chuck, here’s mine, I cover one end, 4”x2”, with blank stock/ Lining paper, therefore a nice clean surface, when it get messed up simply add another layer. By the way how do you keep your table clear of tools, off cuts and random stuff!, I guess that’s the unanswerable question. Lol 🍻
Ну вот, теперь у вас есть подпищик из России. Очень понравился ваш канал. Доброго вам здоровья! Well, now you have a subscription from Russia. I liked your channel very much. Good health to you!
Chuck have you ever used Masonite? I use it for all my tables. It gives you a very smooth surface to work on, it's cheap if you mess it up just pull it off or nail another sheet right over the top of the old one. And best of all no splinters.
My work surface is bouncy. I'm going to put a couple L brackets underneath attached to the leg and the bottom of the table. Its really the only option I have to fix this problem do to the design of the free table I'm using. Table has 2 legs only I think putting a bracket on each leg will drastically improve the tables durability and decrease the bounce. But I'm also thinking of just putting 2 on the on end of the table I use the most. I've even thought of cutting the over hang off and using hinges so I can make the table long when I need to make a long cut or short so it's taking less space in my living room. Idk which is the best idea but I think going the brackets first and if niether idea works then I'll cut the top down
Thanks for the vid. I have a follow up to this video. What can you use to prevent loud echo and loud noises in general when pounding such as when using a chissel or a punch? I live in an apartment and just knowing how long it's going to be when I use my mallet makes me fear using it. I tried cork and i've tried a yoga mat and a rubber dapping block, but it's still really loud. My drafting table is a 1/2" piece of plywood on top of 2 sawhorses for reverence. Thanks im advance for any suggestions.
This is some great information, and I am looking forward to the series. I especially like the idea of storing leather I use a lot right under the table. Question: how is the shelf underneath secured to the rest of the table? Do you just add some 6 inch long 2x4's to the interior of the legs, and then screw the shelf to those?
I know you have done an element on sharpening tools but in it you used jewelers rouge, questions are what is it? What does it do to help sharpening? Are their any alternatives I could use instead for somebody who is just starting out in leathercraft?
It's basically a polish. It helps by giving you a smooth polished surface to your knife or cutting tool. I don't know what a good substitute would be. Fairly new at leather working myself.
Really, the alternative is getting a decent set of whetstones and learning to use them. Otherwise, Jeweler's Rouge on a piece of vegtan is good for minor touch-ups(i.e., the blade isn't actually dull, but it's not super sharp anymore). You can find jeweler's rouge at many craft stores, it's not horribly expensive. It's just a very fine grit polishing paste
I would use green polishing compound. An associate at tandy leather showed me how to use the compound on swivel knife and I literally fell in love with it. you don't need too much and it works excellent, use it on leather strop.
Hey Chuck I was wondering how to avoid having creaky and/or squeaky leather, and what are some things I can do to fix this problem once it has occurred?
@@Storyideas81 Same! I work on a folding table and the marble slab with poundo board on top, and a piece of leather on top of that, then the cutting board works great for punches!
My son put in a granite kitchen top around his stove top. That "cut out" is now my tooling surface. I mounted it on the tooling table my dad made. It has a two inch concrete base that I bonded the granite onto. Looks great and is a solid, stable, smooth tooling surface.
We would definitely recommend a granite or marble slab, this will help with the bounce and you'll notice a big difference in your stamp impressions. The next video on the shop tour will be the tooling table and the pattern table.
Wonder if a concrete slab with a smooth surface would work too. Guess is all boils down to the mass of the mass and density. Could get them super easy and super cheap. Glad to hear that my DIY table is not to fault here, built it just 6 months ago.
My 12x12 poundo board from Weaver now looks like a dome. It's become raised up off the table in the middle, after using it for about 2 years. Anything I can do about that? It's annoying to have to force it down onto the work table to use it for punching, etc.
Hi John, I'm sorry you're having trouble with this. Is your poundo board stored flat when you're not using it? If not, I would recommend that. You could try pressing it between two flat surfaces (table and marble slab or something similar) for a while to see if that helps reshape it or you can always add some tape on the back to secure it to your table and it shouldn't move.
Chuck, I think you were a wood crafts in another life. Or you still are a wood craftsman disguised as a leather craftsman. Are you holding out on us? Richard
I just put in an order for leather dying items. When you get as source for great information be sure to show support by buying things from them. This guy is full of energy and knowledge. Never meandering and well edited. It takes time to do these videos.
Subscribe
Notify and
Patronize
It’s a snap. Couldn’t resist.
You rock Chuck !
Hi Chuck, Old Leather Smith here, when I started a loooong time ago I went 2 a friend and asked 4 a good cutting service, He owned a glass shop, he gave me a rear window from a Semi- tractor, he told me that he swaps them out 4 a split window the drivers can open. Makes a great cutting service, and the blades U use stay sharper longer, by the way it's the same size as your 4 pieces of pondo board. Thanks 4 your videos. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
I love the idea of overhang on the edges, for clamps and edge guides.
Took the words right out of my mouth. I’m always looking for ideas to make my workspace more efficient and that was a great idea.
I had asked previously about what the black cutting surface on your work table was. Now I know! Poundo board! I'll check that out.
Thanks Chuck. This should be a great series. Don't forget your tool rack for your leather tooling tools. I copied yours as soon as I first saw it. I made mine where it hangs on the wall above my tooling table using a french cleat system so I can move it around. It doesn't take up any table space that way.
I built my main table as a 4’ x 8’ table at 40” high to bring my work up above my waist. I’ve been very happy with that height. The bench top is 2x4’s and I have a 2’ x 2’ piece of granite countersunk in the middle of the front to be flush with the top.
I'm 6'1" and also built my table higher. No more back pain from bending for too long!!!
One of the most useful and practical Elements segments yet. Some details I would not have considered. Thanks, Chuck!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you, Bob!
I'd been hoping to find someone cover this topic, and you did it. My current work surface started out as a 4' x 4' plywood whelping box. I flipped it upside down and it's currently sitting on top of three metal shelving units I had. They're not quite as tall as I'd like. It's in my living room, and was being used as a quilting cutting and ironing table, and now starting to share those duties with leather. I have too many hobbies. I'm looking forward to future leather elements covering shop elements.
I have finally gotten a house where we have a craft room. Been living in a 5th for decades as a traveling nurse but hit the time in our lives to settle down. We now have a "craft room" for leather work and my wife's beading. I made a work bench fashioned after what you talked about in this video. It was a great help to figuring dimensions. Mine is 3 foot by 8 foot. I am still to add on the addition for the granite for tooling. It is working great to far. I took some time to where to attach the press but did that the other day. One addition that I did was add a second shelf 3.5 inches below the structure of the top and I am using that to lay flat all the leather that should be laid flat such at my 5 to 6 and 7 to 9 ounces veggie tans. I know it won't hold it all but it is a great start to getting that leather flat. I am tired of working with veggie tan that rolls up when you lay it out to cut. Thank you again for this very informative and helpful video. Keep up the great work.
As always Chuck, Great simple advice.
Thank you, Adam!
Wow thank you Chuck for the tons of ideas!
I could watch them all day! Can't wait for these series.
Love and respect from Iran.
Your pool cue analogy is brilliant ♡♡♡ I am absolutely loving your videos! Thank you sir 😎👍
Good tips Chuck.
Great video Chuck! I love the idea of having a second, sacrificial layer to replace periodically.
These videos are always relevant! I am thinking of ways to revamp my space
Thank you, hope the revamp goes well!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply it will! We are expecting so I need to move out of the spare bedroom. I will make this exact cutting table for the garage shop 😁
My main work table is 18"x24". It's plywood covered with duct tape, and then I have one if those green cutting boards that fits perfectly. It's less than ideal, but I've pumped out alot of cool stuff on that- masks, hats, holsters, sheathes, tool pouches, belts(yes, belts), bracelets, dice trays, even armor. Actually just finished a really cool filigree project with a deep blue suede.
I can't wait till I have the space for a bigger table, but for now, this one works.
I like this tip. I'm in the process of revamping my workbench and this helps me out immensely. i never thought of using an overhang for some of my templates, Great tip. i agree with using poundo board for cutting.
Chuck's the Greatest!
Haven't even watched but I know this will be a good one!
Ty Chuck that you now use also the cm sizes for us europeans 😊
Good info Chuck keep it coming brother
Well well I have been thinking about building a cutting table thanks for the tips.
Subject for a segment- Working with rawhide. I purchased a large piece from Weaver with the idea of using small strips for edge protection for drawknives and curved edge tools. Cutting to size and thickness has me stumped. Thanks for considering.
Lord, i hope my lower shelf has as much leather as Chuck does. One could only br that lucky.
Love this design! Might have to make one.
Good table tips there Chuck, here’s mine, I cover one end, 4”x2”, with blank stock/ Lining paper, therefore a nice clean surface, when it get messed up simply add another layer.
By the way how do you keep your table clear of tools, off cuts and random stuff!, I guess that’s the unanswerable question. Lol 🍻
Dark Sorcery for the most part
Still working on my dinning room table. Works great. 😉
Ну вот, теперь у вас есть подпищик из России. Очень понравился ваш канал. Доброго вам здоровья! Well, now you have a subscription from Russia. I liked your channel very much. Good health to you!
Спасибо!
Plywood is gold right now😅
Chuck have you ever used Masonite? I use it for all my tables. It gives you a very smooth surface to work on, it's cheap if you mess it up just pull it off or nail another sheet right over the top of the old one. And best of all no splinters.
Hi Chuck Happy St. Pat. Day, Please explain the difference between shovel skive machine and bell skiver? Thanks Buzzsaw Leather
My work surface is bouncy. I'm going to put a couple L brackets underneath attached to the leg and the bottom of the table. Its really the only option I have to fix this problem do to the design of the free table I'm using. Table has 2 legs only I think putting a bracket on each leg will drastically improve the tables durability and decrease the bounce. But I'm also thinking of just putting 2 on the on end of the table I use the most. I've even thought of cutting the over hang off and using hinges so I can make the table long when I need to make a long cut or short so it's taking less space in my living room. Idk which is the best idea but I think going the brackets first and if niether idea works then I'll cut the top down
Thanks for the vid. I have a follow up to this video. What can you use to prevent loud echo and loud noises in general when pounding such as when using a chissel or a punch? I live in an apartment and just knowing how long it's going to be when I use my mallet makes me fear using it. I tried cork and i've tried a yoga mat and a rubber dapping block, but it's still really loud. My drafting table is a 1/2" piece of plywood on top of 2 sawhorses for reverence. Thanks im advance for any suggestions.
This is some great information, and I am looking forward to the series. I especially like the idea of storing leather I use a lot right under the table.
Question: how is the shelf underneath secured to the rest of the table? Do you just add some 6 inch long 2x4's to the interior of the legs, and then screw the shelf to those?
Hi Greg,
It's the exact same concept as the top, 2" x 4" boards to make the frame and then plywood to fit on top.
I know you have done an element on sharpening tools but in it you used jewelers rouge, questions are what is it? What does it do to help sharpening? Are their any alternatives I could use instead for somebody who is just starting out in leathercraft?
It's basically a polish. It helps by giving you a smooth polished surface to your knife or cutting tool. I don't know what a good substitute would be. Fairly new at leather working myself.
Really, the alternative is getting a decent set of whetstones and learning to use them. Otherwise, Jeweler's Rouge on a piece of vegtan is good for minor touch-ups(i.e., the blade isn't actually dull, but it's not super sharp anymore). You can find jeweler's rouge at many craft stores, it's not horribly expensive. It's just a very fine grit polishing paste
I would use green polishing compound. An associate at tandy leather showed me how to use the compound on swivel knife and I literally fell in love with it. you don't need too much and it works excellent, use it on leather strop.
@@charliesullivan7546 I love the green. Keeps my knives razor sharp
Hi Tony,
You can use any type of polishing compound or rouge. You should be able to find these at a craft store or hardware store.
Hey Chuck I was wondering how to avoid having creaky and/or squeaky leather, and what are some things I can do to fix this problem once it has occurred?
What is the best way to store my leather? Can you discuss this based on the type of leather?
Hi Terry! That will actually be the next video in the shop tour series, should be launching in 2 weeks.
The tooling surface is the most interesting for me, currently struggling with mine, it is way too bouncy.
I had the same problem. I bought a marble slab from Weaver and a poundo board. Those two things solved that problem.
@@Storyideas81 Same! I work on a folding table and the marble slab with poundo board on top, and a piece of leather on top of that, then the cutting board works great for punches!
My son put in a granite kitchen top around his stove top. That "cut out" is now my tooling surface. I mounted it on the tooling table my dad made. It has a two inch concrete base that I bonded the granite onto. Looks great and is a solid, stable, smooth tooling surface.
We would definitely recommend a granite or marble slab, this will help with the bounce and you'll notice a big difference in your stamp impressions. The next video on the shop tour will be the tooling table and the pattern table.
Wonder if a concrete slab with a smooth surface would work too. Guess is all boils down to the mass of the mass and density. Could get them super easy and super cheap.
Glad to hear that my DIY table is not to fault here, built it just 6 months ago.
My 12x12 poundo board from Weaver now looks like a dome. It's become raised up off the table in the middle, after using it for about 2 years. Anything I can do about that? It's annoying to have to force it down onto the work table to use it for punching, etc.
Hi John,
I'm sorry you're having trouble with this. Is your poundo board stored flat when you're not using it? If not, I would recommend that.
You could try pressing it between two flat surfaces (table and marble slab or something similar) for a while to see if that helps reshape it or you can always add some tape on the back to secure it to your table and it shouldn't move.
How far do you set 5/16 spots on the belt?
How do you arive at a reasonable selling price?
Really need help! Need the best order of events out of: stamping, burning, staining, gumming or burnishing. Can anyone help?
Hi there!
Did you watch our last video on the order of steps to take? We'll link it here for you: ua-cam.com/video/zV7rY2ExDSw/v-deo.html
👍😉.
I wanna grow up to be like you and I'm 34 :D
Chuck, I think you were a wood crafts in another life. Or you still are a wood craftsman disguised as a leather craftsman. Are you holding out on us? Richard