I like the idea but my shop is a one car garage, therefore floor space is critical to me. So I built my router table a bit lower than the cabinet I use for my table saw and use the router table as outfeed for my table saw. Basically it is the same idea only instead of using the cabinet for storage, I use it for my router. Additionally I have a 3mm sheet that locks on the router table making it level to the table saw table. With both tables locked into each other, they make a handy assembly table if I have bigger projects to assemble. I love the channel. It inspires my a lot. Thx 4 sharing. Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Excellent video. Thank you, sir. One question as I'm learning about safety in table saw: Is it safe to put your fingers that close to the blade in 3:40? Thank you.
Another excellent video from a real pro. I don't think there is anything about woodworking that Jim Heavy doesn't know. Concerning miter gauge slots, it seems to me that you would need them more on an outfeed table that is attached to the back rail of your saw in a more permanent position. In the design of this table it is mobile so you would need to align the table and the slots each time if you move the table around.
Wow, I really enjoy your videos and what a great project! There was a comment about cross cutting and the runners of a sled or a miter being obstructed by the table but the table is compact, on casters and easily rolls to the side out of the way and if one would attach a folding out feed table with miter slots it's just as much if not more trouble to fold it down when space is needed so I guess the choice would be up to the individual.
I like the general deign and may make one for my saw. I’m curious why you didn’t put slots for when you use miter gauge or other accessories that run in the slots. Without them you need to when this out of the way each time.
We just don't run into the situation very often, and when we do, its pretty simple to move the outfeed table. It's on wheels. You sure could make slots if you want.
Well done! Since you’ve place ribs on both sides of the cabinet it sorta kinda implies that you were thinking of adding a drop leaf to the other side as well some day, huh?
This a very nice design. It looks like you are using Baltic Birch plywood which is expensive. Any reason not to substitute a good quality cabinet grade plywood other than aesthetics? Thanks of this nice presentation.
Cheap, readily available, and easy to work with. As grandpa always said, we ain't building a piano. :) But also, it's a bit slick and it adds some heft to the cart. So friction from the workpiece shouldn't drive it away from the back of the cart.
I like it but what about miter bar clearance? Are you going to move the table every time you make a crosscut with the miter gauge or a sled? Maybe you have enough room with the table being that far away but seems like you still should have addressed it.
An excellent point. Making the table an additional 3/8" lower would be the easiest way to address this. That extra amount of drop shouldn't make any difference to the cutoff pieces. The other option, cutting miter gauge slots in the table would be difficult as they would have to perfectly align with the table saw's slots.
When you use a miter bar or a sled you won‘t cut long pieces that need an outfeed table. In this case the outfeed table will stand somewhere else and will not bother you.
@@johnslaughter5475 Cutting the slots is pretty easy actually. All I did was slap together a quick jig and then use a router with a straight flush cut bit. The slots don't have to align perfectly and it's actually beneficial if they're a little oversize so it's easier to put the table back in place after you move it. Put the table where it will live behind the saw, clamp the jig in place lined up with the saw slot and rout your slot.
@@nagamendo5655 Right, but moving the table every time I want to make crosscut would bother me. :-) I understand everyone works different and has different needs ... just thought it should have least been mentioned in the video.
@@jhans3278 Laminating the 3/4 materials to 6/4 has become a standard for two reasons: the rigidity increases exponentially, and, any deviation from flatness in the one tends to be canceled by the other, especially in cheaper plywoods where you can choose the pieces to oppose their bows.
Yes! Issue #247 July 2017. I'm presently in the process of building this table except with several modifications. I've been going back and forth whether to put slots in for the miter gage or just make the table 3/8" lower?
BearsFan, if you don't have that issue, you can find a link to purchase the plans in the video description. Ed, check your miter gauge and any sleds to see how far they extend. Since this is a mobile design, lining up those miter slots each time you cut might be more hassle than just leaving it stationed a short distance away from the back of your saw. Most miter gauges only extend 2"-4" inches beyond the saw at the point that gauge's fence is fully beyond the blade. That much gap will have very little effect on rip cuts, but a 3/8" drop-off might get annoying on certain cuts. YMMV.
@@edcarpenter5986 Thanks Ed I'm thinking about going with this as it looks like a nice out-feed table. My opinion, I'd just lower it instead of adding slots. That way you got a nice flat surface 👍🏾👍🏾
@@Wood Thanks. I already followed the link. I'm not gonna spend the $10 on one plan. However catching that sale on the USB drive with all the back issues might be the move 👍🏾👍🏾
I like the idea but my shop is a one car garage, therefore floor space is critical to me. So I built my router table a bit lower than the cabinet I use for my table saw and use the router table as outfeed for my table saw. Basically it is the same idea only instead of using the cabinet for storage, I use it for my router. Additionally I have a 3mm sheet that locks on the router table making it level to the table saw table. With both tables locked into each other, they make a handy assembly table if I have bigger projects to assemble.
I love the channel. It inspires my a lot. Thx 4 sharing.
Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Very nice design. Thanks for including the source for casters and hinges.
That is a beautiful table saw
Stresses me swing you put your hand over the blade holding down the wood great video
Excellent video. Thank you, sir. One question as I'm learning about safety in table saw: Is it safe to put your fingers that close to the blade in 3:40? Thank you.
Awesome, great ideas to upgrade my tables setup.
Another excellent video from a real pro. I don't think there is anything about woodworking that Jim Heavy doesn't know. Concerning miter gauge slots, it seems to me that you would need them more on an outfeed table that is attached to the back rail of your saw in a more permanent position. In the design of this table it is mobile so you would need to align the table and the slots each time if you move the table around.
Wow, I really enjoy your videos and what a great project! There was a comment about cross cutting and the runners of a sled or a miter being obstructed by the table but the table is compact, on casters and easily rolls to the side out of the way and if one would attach a folding out feed table with miter slots it's just as much if not more trouble to fold it down when space is needed so I guess the choice would be up to the individual.
Nice outfeed table for a smaller workshop. Compact, well-built and thought out.
I actually built one very similar a few years ago. It works great!
I really like this and will make one. The outfeed table will also be an excellent assembly table.
I really enjoy your instruction and presentation style. The project is excellent and I need to make one for my small garage workshop. Thank you 👍😎🇦🇺
I like the general deign and may make one for my saw. I’m curious why you didn’t put slots for when you use miter gauge or other accessories that run in the slots. Without them you need to when this out of the way each time.
We just don't run into the situation very often, and when we do, its pretty simple to move the outfeed table. It's on wheels. You sure could make slots if you want.
Well done! Since you’ve place ribs on both sides of the cabinet it sorta kinda implies that you were thinking of adding a drop leaf to the other side as well some day, huh?
Great design I like it that much I’ll be building that in my shop
Thanks you always have great tips and awesome content on your channel
I love it. I do have a question, after you predrill when do you final drill? ;-)
This a very nice design. It looks like you are using Baltic Birch plywood which is expensive. Any reason not to substitute a good quality cabinet grade plywood other than aesthetics? Thanks of this nice presentation.
Multi-ply plywood, such as Baltic Birch, tends to be more stable and less prone to warping and twisting than other kinds of plywood.
Nice design and demonstration! Why did you opt for MDF instead of plywood or other material for the surface?
Cheap, readily available, and easy to work with. As grandpa always said, we ain't building a piano. :) But also, it's a bit slick and it adds some heft to the cart. So friction from the workpiece shouldn't drive it away from the back of the cart.
@@Wood Really good to know. Still relatively new to woodworking so I'm interested how to choose the right materials for each product.
I like it but what about miter bar clearance? Are you going to move the table every time you make a crosscut with the miter gauge or a sled? Maybe you have enough room with the table being that far away but seems like you still should have addressed it.
An excellent point. Making the table an additional 3/8" lower would be the easiest way to address this. That extra amount of drop shouldn't make any difference to the cutoff pieces. The other option, cutting miter gauge slots in the table would be difficult as they would have to perfectly align with the table saw's slots.
this off-feed table is for ripping long pieces
When you use a miter bar or a sled you won‘t cut long pieces that need an outfeed table. In this case the outfeed table will stand somewhere else and will not bother you.
@@johnslaughter5475 Cutting the slots is pretty easy actually. All I did was slap together a quick jig and then use a router with a straight flush cut bit. The slots don't have to align perfectly and it's actually beneficial if they're a little oversize so it's easier to put the table back in place after you move it. Put the table where it will live behind the saw, clamp the jig in place lined up with the saw slot and rout your slot.
@@nagamendo5655 Right, but moving the table every time I want to make crosscut would bother me. :-)
I understand everyone works different and has different needs ... just thought it should have least been mentioned in the video.
The 1/8" gap of table below saw table height is insufficient to accommodate the 3/8" depth of miter slots, so extra slots will be needed.
LIKE FROM BRAZIL
Nice build. Why is the top laminated?
To make it thicker.
@@Wood thanks I understand it’s thicker. However, is the top required to be 1-1/2 inch thick to serve as an out feed table top?
@@jhans3278 Laminating the 3/4 materials to 6/4 has become a standard for two reasons: the rigidity increases exponentially, and, any deviation from flatness in the one tends to be canceled by the other, especially in cheaper plywoods where you can choose the pieces to oppose their bows.
Is wood turning difficult?
Are these plans in the Magazine?
Yes! Issue #247 July 2017. I'm presently in the process of building this table except with several modifications. I've been going back and forth whether to put slots in for the miter gage or just make the table 3/8" lower?
BearsFan, if you don't have that issue, you can find a link to purchase the plans in the video description. Ed, check your miter gauge and any sleds to see how far they extend. Since this is a mobile design, lining up those miter slots each time you cut might be more hassle than just leaving it stationed a short distance away from the back of your saw. Most miter gauges only extend 2"-4" inches beyond the saw at the point that gauge's fence is fully beyond the blade. That much gap will have very little effect on rip cuts, but a 3/8" drop-off might get annoying on certain cuts. YMMV.
@@edcarpenter5986 Thanks Ed
I'm thinking about going with this as it looks like a nice out-feed table. My opinion, I'd just lower it instead of adding slots. That way you got a nice flat surface 👍🏾👍🏾
@@Wood Thanks. I already followed the link. I'm not gonna spend the $10 on one plan. However catching that sale on the USB drive with all the back issues might be the move 👍🏾👍🏾
Don’t bother buying the plans. The video is more comprehensive and doesn’t omit details like the plan does. The plans are pretty worthless, actually.
I guess one could put another wing on that.
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