Fender Afternoon | Tech Tips and Tricks
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- Finishing up a few different Fenders, sharing some tech/troubleshooting tips along the way.
Timeline:
00:00 Intro
00:12 Three conductor power cable
00:56 Heater balance tips
02:03 New bright switch
03:03 Shielding a Tele
04:34 Cleaning/retensioning a tube socket
06:35 Regluing old loose tolex
10:04 Removing paint and dirt
11:54 Diagnosing rushing water in output
16:16 Testing cleaned tube socket
16:38 The tolex after regluing
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
These are things I get asked about a lot :
Amp Tech Gear Used :
Hakko FX-951 soldering station
Weller SPG 80L soldering iron (chassis work)
Rigol DS1054Z digital oscilloscope
Thsinde 18B+ digital multimeters
Kester 60/40 solder
Techspray #4 No-Clean Desoldering Braid
Below are things that make this channel possible that people don’t usually think about. If any of these companies want to send me new and wonderful toys, I’m open to that. I can’t take free stuff when it comes to the amps I review, etc, but for the stuff below, bribe away!
Microphones/Audio Equipment :
Guitar Amps : Royer R-10 Hot Rod and/or Shure SM57 (noted in videos)
Voiceover Bench : sE Audio sE8 (small diaphragm condenser)
Voiceover Streaming : Shure SM57 with shockmount and windscreen
Voiceover Mic Arms : Elgato Wave Mic arms
Guitar Mic Stand : Gator Frameworks short weighted base stand with boom
Mic Cables and Guitar Cables : Mogami/Neutrik
Mic pre : MOTU M2
DAW : Logic Pro X on MacBook Pro 16 running Sonoma 14
Plugins : No effects other than level matching/normalization unless a recording
specifically has reverb etc added in post (rare, various Waves plugins)
Monitors : Yamaha HS7s
Monitor Stands : Gator Frameworks Desktop Clamp-On Stands
Monitor Isolation Mounts : IsoAcoustics Iso-Puck Minis
Headphones : Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro (main)
Headphones : Sony MDR-7506 (alternate)
Video Equipment :
Camera : Sony ZVE-10 with SmallRig Cage (main)
Lens : Sigma f2.8 18-50mm (main)
Lens : Sony ZVE10 kit lens (rarely used)
B Camera : Apple iPhone 13 Pro (rarely used)
Tripod : SmallRig 71” with SmallRig Fluid Video Head
Streaming Mount : Elgato Master Mount S with SmallRig Ballhead
Bench Light : SmallRig RC 120D
Bench Light Diffusor : SmallRig Lantern Softbox
Bench C-Stands (light and overhead camera) : Neewer Pro SS Heavy Duty
Streaming Light : SmallRig RC 120B
Streaming Diffusor : SmallRig Parabolic Softbox
Streaming Light Mount : SmallRig 148CM Wall Mount Boom with Triangle Base
Various Other Lights : Neewer LED Panels with Neewer Softboxes
Video Software :
Davinci Resolve 18
Paul Leeming LUTs
Adobe Illustrator 28
Adobe Photoshop 25
Ecamm Live (streaming software)
I like this format! Actually I like all the stuff you do. Thanks for taking the time and potential money lost shooting videos to show us cool stuff. It’s greatly appreciated!
Hal's pickups have just had the bobbins assembled and will be wound and shipped tomorrow, God willing.
Thank you Lyle, for explaining the reasoning as to why you use an artificial center tap vs PT center tap for the heaters.
Thank you .. as a lifetime player, collector and amp tinkerer, I've learned a lot from you about proper bench skills and safety protocols. Much appreciated.
Love this format of various troubleshooting and repair tips. Your videos are great.
My good friend is a retired curator at the Victoria & Albert Museum. The painting restorers use spit on a cotton bud to clean the most valuable paintings. Over the past few years they have imported synthetic saliva from Germany for this purpose.
Fwiw, like Woodford, these day at the shop videos are great.
Pro painting tip, vintage amps make excellent drop cloths 😂
As we've seen here on the channel 🤣🤣🤣
Man, you're great Lyle. Great work.
Such a great way to protect those vintage xformers
I've been using carpenter's wood glue to fasten down loose tolex also. I didn't know that was tech-approved, but I guess it is officially, now. I use spring clamps to hold the tolex in place until the glue dries. I like the tip about applying glue to both surfaces and letting it tack up a bit, similar to the procedure if you were using contact cement.
Thank you for these videos. May your channel continue to grow. GBY Sir.
Nice to see you again Lyle! Your videos haven’t been showing up on my home account, looked it and showed YT had unsubscribed me ?
Rectified that.
Glad to see you again!
D/Sul
This channel deserves more than a million subscribers easily, I hope it can be achieved in the future, greetings from Mexico.
Excellent stuff Sir! I don’t know much about you’re fixing but it’s totally interesting to me. I know it’s all old school technology & I know you’re on it & an honest guy! Thank you for these videos!!! 🎸
Uncle Doug can confirm that all vintage Fenders feature white paint
I may have heard this amp live a few times. Steve is a fine player.
Since I watched your video with Tom Woodford where you talked about making videos regarding topics you actually like yourself: Remembering some of your past videos you are an expert in making Amps hum- and noise-free by applying proper grounding strategies. Would you consider to make a video (series) which is kind of a deep dive into this topic with some theoretical background info (going beyond the basic principles of avoiding ground loops, etc.)?
I bought a small cache of 1/2 w 100 ohm fusible resistors for heater balance so I don't have to worry about the slim chance that a different type doesn't go open in time. The first spot I used them was in a YBA-1 where someone had used 10w wire wounds as the balance resistors 😬
Hey Lyle! For tolex I use Weldbond. It's white glue that grabs fast and you can even use it as a contact cement. Hobby lobby.
Excellent as always!
Hey, Lyle . You probably know this, but I thought I'd share.
You want the smallest aperture possible, and that would be the highest number. I.e. f2.4 is a huge aperture with no depth of field.
f16 is smaller with greater depth of field, requiring more light for exposure, so higher iso is useful.
I imagine you have some bright lighting, so I assume you could utilize a small aperture and get some depth of field in your shots.
Also, wider angle lenses ( 20mm vs 50mm) naturally let in a lot of light and get great depth of field at lower iso ratings.
Love the content, man! I've learned a ton from you, and I'm on my 8th build in 13 months since I've begun building.
I hope my comment is of use .
Cheers !
I wonder if you could use a wide angle lens and crop in editing ?
This was at F10 (in camera, lens is a 16-50 F2.8) in the 35-50mm range. Lots of lighting here but still had to go to to ISO 2000 occasionally and some shots have bad exposure/weird contrast.
Other shots came out better. I’m going to try the in F6-F8 range next time.
I often film from a good distance then crop. But it’s always a balance between where the camera needs to be and where I need to be to do the actual work.
And metal chassis are fun with very bright video lights… always watching the scope.
What I found out in this video is the amount I need to expose to the right is different than with my usual narrower depth of field shots.
@PsionicAudio strange . I wouldn't have guessed that, but my photography days are pre digital, so maybe the new tech acts differently somehow.
I'd be tempted ( if you.havent) to try some practice shots with the smallest aperture and slowly move stop by stop to a larger aperture. And set the camera to auto iso if possible.
Set lenses ( non zoom) let in much more light, btw, but I'm sure you don't want to have to buy a bunch of lenses and keep switching when you are soldering ..
I would have thought one of your smallest apertures would give infinite depth of field and, with your lighting, still be able to expose well.
The "Electric" Guitar re-naissance begins here!
Aloha Lyle thanks for the tips. Little late on the videos. Moving into my brand new, second hand house.
I like the shallow depth of field look, it makes things pretty! Appreciate why Lyle would want more DOF, but I think the vids look better as they were before.
Mostly they’ll stay shallow but for some things more is needed. I’ll figure it out.
Awesome tip using a guitar string to clean amp sockets
Hey Lyle - I've noticed on a few occasions when I've mentioned your channel on channels that are reviewing / recommending amps .. ( sound quality only ) my comments get taken down 😅 all I say is check out your review ..
Keep up the great work .. 😎
If you’ve posted links most channels don’t allow links in comments. So it might not be a conspiracy. But I appreciate it.
@@PsionicAudio I don't post the links .. just mention your channel -
But it just might be I've mentioned another channel.
I've said it to friends and in live chats I wouldn't buy an amp unless I saw you review it .. 😎 🎸 🇮🇪
OUTSTANDING ! ! !
Good tips! Thanks!!
Great afternoon vid . . . tks Lyle
Thanks!
Lyle loving all the nerd stuff in the description!
Isn’t that a Lyle Loving song? Ha!
Bdays coming up.. or had it? Mines little over a week away. 53 is gonna a great year🎉 for us both. I guess.
very informative! Thanks for the insight.....
Thank you
Lyle, excellent as always. You are always very clear in your explanations of what you are doing! Quick question, it looks like you(?) replaced all the coupling caps with Mallory 150’s except for the one next to the Tremolo optocoupler, looks like an Orange Drop, what was your thinking there? Thanks again for the informative videos
Like your style Lyle nice geetar work. Keep on pickin' Cowkidz. Live 4 Ever Compadres
I’m sure you know, but just for my peace of mind, I thought I’d mention that the heater wires on that 72 deluxe reverb are badly burned between V4 and V5 (?). Love the pro tips round up!
Yeah, a previous tech was sloppy with the iron. No chance of a short but it’s not the prettiest.
Sir, you perform excellent work.
I wish I could be your assistant.
Your wiring looks so good.
Your videos are pushing me to attempt building a champ clone
May I suggest a 5F2A Princeton? Assuming you are thinking tweed it’s only a tiny bit more complicated. A cab that will take a 10” speaker also is a good idea.
@@chipsterb4946 I’m an electrician by trade and always enjoy craftsmanship,something you don’t see much of anymore. Thank you for your suggestion 👍✌️
@@kevinalfrey2633 you’ll love building it and when it fires up the first time 😎💥 The Hoffman Amps forum was a great resource for building amps for me. I’ve built a Tweed Princeton, 2 Princeton Reverbs, and a modified Super Reverb. Grounding might be the most important thing that wasn’t obvious up front. It’s too bad the AX84 forum faded, but Merlin Blencowe’s book might be the best single reference you can find. You don’t need all that to build a clone, but I really enjoyed learning how it all works and tweaking circuits. ✌️
Those Murrays definitely had more "umph", but I wear headphones so it was pretty obvious just how much clarity and punch they had than the other ones. What kind of conductivity are you able to measure on the shielding paint, out of curiosity? In previous guitars and basses I haven't been impressed with the paint (measured high resistance) and have installed copper tape instead.
Stay tuned. Let’s just say that at least a fourth coat is needed (currently at 1.5K from point to point in the same cavity and 10-20K from cavity to cavity). I prefer copper but it’s a pain, trying the StewMac stuff (which isn’t as good as the ebay stuff I used to have).
@@PsionicAudioHope you get time show us how much difference the shielding paint makes Lyle.
Oh, the paint on the handle was bothering me too! Nice work!
😎👍👍
Did you see the melted wires on the amp with the "Bandaxal" hehe mod? Around 14:31 on the video - seen next to the word "Instruments" on the back panel.
Yeah, previous tech. Ugly but not an issue.
I'm curious about your choice of adhesive for the Tolex repair: why Titebond II instead of contact cement or rubber cement?
Because it’s more forgiving, isn’t stinky, and I have multiple applications for it in my work.
Hey Lyle, I just used Meguiar's Leather and Vinyl cleaner to clean up the tolex on my old Princeton, and it looks amazing. Have you used that or anything like it or have any opinions on cleaning tolex?
See my reply below, though I misspelled Meguiars.
Great, thanks!
Lyle, do you think the new JJ 6V6S's with the double mica spacers will solve their issues with microphony in combo amps?
I hope so but we’ll see.
Pardon me, but I have my thoughts about the first tip: I don't get it how could a balancing resistor act as a fuse. Unless there are no tubes in the amp, current will be totally neglectable in them. If any short occurs, they are out of circuit. Even if by any accident those resistors burn out all they do is make the heater voltage floating (and the amp noisy) , but don't interrupt the power. Or am I wrong?
In case of heater to B+ or ground or the other heater the resistor will burn open. A physical CT will also burn open - in which case the burn is in the PT windings.
As resistors are cheaper than power transformers…
Has anybody here looked at rola amps? I’m looking for a good quality jcm800 circuit (2204/50 watt) with an fx loop, and maybe not such a huge box. Any recs?
Nice video. Lyle, are there any Mesa boogie amplifiers you think somewhat fondly of design wise?
Nope. But thanks!
You must be new here 🙃
Hey, Lyle, long-time listener, first-time caller: I've got a silverface Princeton non-reverb from '69 and the vibrato is weakish--I've got the plate dissipation running about 100% with normal wall voltage, but with some reduction with the Brown Box, vibrato is improved. Would you recommend anything else to deepen vibrato? Thanks!
Yeah, plate dissipation should not exceed 70% and your deepest trem will be with plate dissipation no higher than 55%.
@@PsionicAudio I was watching an Uncle Doug vid on biasing Princetons (he was looking at an AA764, I've got the AA964, but both are grid-biased with the grids connected to the tremolo intensity pot), and he said there wasn't a great way to change the bias other than converting it to a cathode biased situation. Is that the way you'd cool these tubes?
what can you use to treat the tolex and clean /shine it up? safely i did see you use water and mention isopropal
Various Mother’s or Meguiar’s products from car stores designed to clean/polish/protect vinyls. NOT regular Armor All.
But start with very warm water with a drop or two of Dawn or similar dishwashing detergent and a soft toothbrush. Work a large area then let it sit a few minutes. Follow that with warm water and a clean cloth to remove the soap. Repeat.
Don’t use isopropyl alcohol or any alcohol on tolex. I was talking solvents in general at that point in the video.
Thanks for the reply
Awesome tips Lyle. I haven't cleaned my amps in a while but this will be my go-to from now on. Water alone never got them clean enough. Drop of Dawn for the best clean ❤️
I’ve had great results cleaning up tolex with a Turtle Wax product called “Dash & Glass”; if you’re looking for something to clean and add a bit of UV protection without adding fake shine it’s great, and no greasy residue.
If you run out of fingernail for your cleaning projects, you might consider plastic razorblades. Lowes sells them. Just don't try to shave with them.
It's a heavy load to carry as an amp tech.
You know, i noticed you apologized for the black mark on your fingernail and that is all fine and dandy .....you didn't however apologize for the black mark ON YOUR FINGER!!!!!! you can spend every video apologizing the entire time, it still won't save you from negative comments. The comments section here on youtube is just like that unfortunately.