DIY Front Brakes & Rotor Replacement - 2015 Honda Fit (GoPro Premiere)
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Changing out the Front Brakes and Rotors on my wife's 2015 Honda Fit.
Also trying out my GoPro with head mount. I am not a mechanic by any means but this job is not difficult. This cost around $130-$150 depending on what tools you have.
Thanks for watching! Make sure and comment below with questions.....Like & Subscribe!
The following are Amazon AFFILIATE links for items shown in the video. I make a small commission if you make a purchase through following these links. Thanks for supporting the channel!
Brake Pads and Rotors Used (Vehicle Specific) - amzn.to/3nwepFA
Vessel Screwdriver with JIS Bits - amzn.to/33G5lXE
Brake Piston Spreader - amzn.to/3qvNxaT
Caliper Hangers - amzn.to/3IbmVlr
Synthetic Brake Grease - amzn.to/3nyY3fH
Milwaukee M12 Stubby 3/8" (Bare Tool) - amzn.to/3I9SYlU
If you would like a link for something not listed just let me know in the comments also.
DISCLAIMER:
This video is intended for educational and entertainment purposes only. The content of this video is not a substitution for the advice from, or work being completed by, a qualified professional. Codes and Regulations for possible work included within the video may of may not differ based on your geographical location. If you choose to attempt anything that can be seen in this video, do so at your own risk.
#automotive #howto #brakes
Thank you for this video sir. Im about to change my rotars and brakes on my 2017 Honda Fit, and you gave me the confidence to do so.
👍👍.. I’m more of a building maintenance type person, but it’s not a bad job.. you can do it.
Excellent job of explaining all the steps and more importantly the reasoning behind what you do. Here's a tip, my father was an auto mechanic. He would turn the steering wheel to the far left so you can access the bolts easier behind the calipers.
That is a great idea. I always think to do it when checking tires for leaks, didn’t think about it here.
Great suggestion 👍
Just want to say THANK YOU! The bit about the screw not being a Phillips and sticking/stripping, was worth DOUBLE the price of admission! Cheap screw wanted to strip pretty instantly, so I used a punch to loosen them both. Overall, easy cheesy job. Hardest part really, was realizing no room for my floor jack, and after spending 10 mi trying to find a way to roll it underneath, switched to the stock honda jack....
Also, to whoever commented about needing 2 screws, really, you don't even need one. The lug bolts hold it all together more than anything.
Question for folks, we got 42K out of the original front pads(still had a tad left on em) with mostly hilly and town driving. What have other folks gotten? I changed the rotors too, easier n less time than taking old ones out to surface them.
You are welcome… not a bad job at all. I don’t remember how many miles this had (or if I said)
Very helpful, thanks! One tip; before compressing the pistons, pop the hood and make sure some "helpful" person/prior owner hasn't topped off the brake fluid reservoir to the top when the pads were worn. You might need to suck some fluid out of the reservoir if so (can use a turkey baster), to prevent the reservoir from overflowing when the pistons are compressed. If it does overflow, rinse the brake fluid off immediately, it's corrosive to metal and paint. Another tip, if you're unsure where to apply lubricant to the caliper, look for witness marks from the brake pad ears rubbing against the caliper. Several good tips in your video, including to use a JIS screwdriver to remove the rotor retaining screw. Cheers!
Thanks for watching and the suggestions to be even more helpful. I’m definitely not a mechanic… just like doing things myself 😂.
I would probably replace the pads and install it back on the caliper before removing the rotor because I like to have as few parts off that aren't repaired as possible and it's a confidence boost since this is something I have never done. I will be doing this in a couple weeks. Thanks for the video, thumbs up
Appreciate it. You will be able to do it… and if that helps you it makes since to me.
Whenever I work on brakes, I like to remove those slide pins, clean them, and then apply some fresh grease (silicone anti-seize, dielectric grease, or brake grease). If those suckers freeze up then your brakes are compromised.
I was thinking I did that… maybe I didn’t.
Good Tip 👍
I used to use an ordinary c-clamp to push the piston into the caliper, the kind of clamp used in wood-working to hold glued joints together while the glue is drying.
👍👍..
I used to just use a really big pair of channellocks with something flat. I knew if I did that I would never hear the end of it 😂
thanks for the easy to follow details and the proper torque specs.
You are welcome… I’m glad it helped. I don’t have the best filming skills, but I tried 😂.
Thanks for watching 👍
Nice video.
Good to see non-auto mechanic maintaining procedures in order to do the work properly.
Head mount is ok. Sometimes things are out of frame, but it's probably specific position during the job.
Props for using torque wrench.
Definitely buy and use some knee pads; even doing work that does not require kneeling; keeping your knee joints nice and warm is a gift from present-you to future-you. I use Makita Light Duty Knee Pads E-05642.
As for your way of work. Don't be afraid to be judged. Do the thing the way you do them, not the way you think people would like you to do. It the crazy internet, so sooner or later you will collide with keyboard warriors.
All the best in 2022.
Thank you so much.
I noticed the frames when I did playback, I cut some of them out. That’s the worst thing about the GoPro is I can’t see what I’m recording.
I think in the future I may get my phone out to record in tight spots (like where the bolts were) and fix that in editing. I have tried to stay away from doing editing because I haven’t done much on that end but I’m slowly figuring some of that out.
Agree 100% on knee pads and safety stuff in general. I’m bad about eye, ear, and body protection. I have it all but I get in the flow of work and forget about it.
Thanks again for your support and best of luck in 2022!
@@MORGANSMaintenance With other PPE is like with gloves. When you get used to them, you can't imagine working without them.
Great video. Very simply put. And very detailed
Appreciate it… I’m definitely not an auto mechanic, but if I can get something off… I can put it back 😂
Thank you so much for the helpful video. Couple of questions for you. 1) What grinder wheel did you use to clean the part that the rotor is seated on? 2) Is there a reason why you chose not to apply grease to that area you grinded off the rust before placing the rotor back on to prevent the rotor to cease?
Again, thank you very much. Even though it isn't your intent for the channel, I do hope you continue to do more maintenance to the Honda Fit. God Bless!
It was a die grinder pad like this … amzn.to/3MIwSe9
Probably 120 grit, I’m not sure what I used but it doesn’t need to be aggressive.
I don’t put any on because you don’t want grease to end up getting on the rotor where the pads will end up touching.
They don’t touch in that area, but if you apply grease there, it could possibly end up getting on that area.
It’s really just surface rust… you are just knocking it off mostly to clean the area so everything seats flush. You don’t want a patch of rust to hold your rotor out farther in one spot than another.
I could be wrong in all of this 😂.. it’s just what I do. Hope it helps.
Appreciate the compliment and you watching 👍
Just a note, it’s a good idea to make sure the brake hose isn’t kinked when you are compressing the piston. Kinked brake hose could make you think the calliper is seized.
👍👍 Thanks for the tip
Nice video man.
Good pace and easy for a non mechanic like me to understand.
I’m assuming my 2016 fit is the same. Learned a thing or two from you just now.
Btw, your words are so true. I like working on things too, a lot of work are just common sense and willingness to learn. Unless something entails safety concerns or out of my ability, I’ll tackle it myself. I’m also a tool junkie. Lol
Thanks a lot!
It should be pretty similar. Thanks for the compliment. I’m still learning how to film with the GoPro but one day I may get the hang of it.
It’s not a hard job to do. Best of luck to you!
Just saw your edit..
Most things if you look at it long enough you can tell what it is supposed to do… or how it works. Then it’s just a matter of removing things, replacing things, and putting them back.
I have a tool problem 😂. If I do more work myself I get to buy more of them.
That is exactly right Morgan. It’s how we look at things and willingness to tackle it with positive attitudes.
All the best to your channel. You are a natural in front of the camera. Keep up the good work.
Hi , the reason for the wobble in the rotor, may be , because you only put in one screw, to fasting the rotor, but if you put two screws in the rotor will not wobble, it will be stable on both sides, I see it only had one screw ,but it has space for two
I only know enough about mechanic work to just put back whatever I take off. 😂
Appreciate the suggestion 👍👍
Not needed, the single bolt in the rotor is just to hold the rotor in place until the wheel goes on. The lug nuts will tighten everything down and hold it steady.
@@JettyLife23 👍
The s in Stephen is lowercase
Great video, thank you!
Your welcome… I’m still learning how to film stuff like this, hopefully they get better 👍
What sort of grease are you using to lube up the parts? I'll be doing this myself soon and your video has been so helpful :) should save me nearly $200
It is a synthetic brake grease. amzn.to/3L0OgKe
I have links for most things I used in the description. You can probably get a smaller container of it cheaper at an Auto Parts Store.
It’s not a bad job at all. Glad I could help 👍
I like to use a copper based anti-seize grease (high temp) on the face of the hub where it mates with the inside of the rotor to prevent the rust from welding the two together.
Please send me the names of all the tools, that makes your job so easy ,I enjoy it very much
I think I have links for everything in the description. If not just let me know what specific thing your looking for and I can add them to
Do you have a recommendation to buy both front and read brake pads and rotors?
I only did the front pads. The rears are drums, so it’s a little different process. I checked those and they were ok, so I didn’t change them.
Her car looks brand new 😮
She takes pretty good care of her stuff too. The inside carpeting is about the only thing on it that has been wearing easy. It’s been a good car.
@@MORGANSMaintenance yes but its understantable
caliper bolt size?
@07:11 12&17mm
Thanks bro
@user-eg7hj7fd6o 👍👍
Just can't get that damn first screw off. I don't have any power tools... Being fatherless is hard
The lugnuts on the tire, or the small screw on the Rotor after you got the wheel off.
Its definitely a harder task without tools
You've managed to make an easy job into a nightmare..........lol.............Z
👍… I tried 😂