Fine Episode Larry! Even despite your 2 mishaps with that Coil! LOL!!! I'm sure that your latest repair on it, will turn out just fine! From all I've seen, your repairs most generally, always do! 😊 In watching this episode, I was reminded of how much I appreciate they way you explain things, as opposed to the way a few others attempt to explain them! I guess perhaps that's because just like me, you appear to be from rural upbringings, and thus, are as similarly plainspoken as I am! 😊 Will be anxiously looking forward to Part 3, and seeing, (as well as learning), what all you will do with this radio, and why each repair, and/or replacement, was necessary! When I began watching yours and others' Radio Repair & Restoration Videos, nearly 3 years ago; I was very surprised, to find that the experience I gained from the 3 separate Electricity Classes I'd taken over the years, (and the info I still retain from each of them), make it fairly easy to understand both Tube & Transistor Radio Schematics, and how they work! Although; I must admit, that if & when I ever get started, in this hobby, myself; I'm fairly sure I'll still have some learning to do, when it comes to troubleshooting! 🙂 Take Care, & Will Catch You Again Soon, in Part 3!! Ron
Thanks Ron! I learn something every time I work on one of these radios….The mishaps, was avoidable, yes, coils are always fragile, but these were really in bad places and rotten….Im hoping I can reinstall them without issue.. One of my subscriber pointed out something on something I said about wiring the power cord…..He was right, and I will be utilizing his suggestion in Part 3…. In the beginning, I was afraid to remove parts…afraid I couldnt figure how to put them back in correctly, (long before I made videos, lol)……Pictures, documentation, notes, drawings etc….I started getting the confidence in taking them more and more apart… There are lots of guys on youtube that have really good troubleshooting videos out there….I watch a lot of them…. Thanks for watching….Take Care-Larry
The resistance line cord has an asbestos wrapped resistive element. You will have to add a resistor for the bulbs and motor run type (non polarized electrolytic) capacitor to replace it with a regular line cord since you have very little space inside to put anything else in. Make sure the new capacitor specs for high AC voltage ( 250 VAC). This is NOT a beginners radio to work on for sure.
Thanks for the comments/advice…Ive calculated the cap to be roughly 8-9uf…..Ive bought a 8 uf 250 v fan cap….also a 50 ohm, 5 watt resistor for the lamps shunt……This chassis was made for either ballast or resistive line cord…..there is a hole for a ballast tube and hopefully I can screw the cap where that hole is and maybe a terminal strip for the shunt…. Thanks for watching! Take Care-Larry
Don't feel pressured by the a.m. radio restoration crowd, I think your concept of working on amateur radio equipment is a good one thanks for letting me look over your shoulder 73
Larry - I know as well how brittle those old cardboard coil formers are; you can look at them wrong and they fall apart. LOL Nice job repairing both of them and I’m looking forward to your voltage dropping calculations and shunt resistor… Best, Don
Great video Larry, boy this radio reminds me of my tiny two tube Emerson CF-255! Very similar circuits and I eliminated the curtain burner cord using a capacitor as well to get rid of any heat. I also added a power resistor as part of that light bulb circuit as well. That little radio is one of my favorites and plays awesome. You'll have this old girl singing again in no time.
Thanks Gregg! Hopefully, I can work on this more this week and make some progress….Thanks for reminding me of your Emerson, I will have to go back and watch that again! Take Care-Larry
Thanks Josh! I have several more of “these” old radios to repair…hopefully, I will continue for a few more years…..I got into QRP back 20 years ago….built several kits and homebrewed others…..I learned a lot during that period…several organizations out there who still do that….that may be something you might be interested in. Thanks for watching and commenting! Take Care-Larry
You are doing a fantastic job on this one Larry! I have never understood the reasoning of putting the dial and mechanical stuff in front of the speaker, and this is not the only one that does that. I think there is at least one Zenith that has that aspect to it. I realize that it saves space, but I personally don't want anything other than grill cloth in front of speakers on radios that I own. This one is already a very interesting project...and it really makes you wonder about the reasoning of others that came before you and why they did the things they did.
Thanks Wayne! I guess one of the reasons they put dials in front of the speakers was style and something different…probably why we all dont drive the same car? One of the interesting things I run into these 1930’s radios is, during WWII….most radio repairmen were at war…..folks needed their radios fixed…so some handyman made repairs anyway he could to get Mrs. Jones’ radio playing again with whatever parts he could come up with….pretty interesting…Today, we call those hacks….they did what they had to to make it work! Thanks for watching and as always the comments! Take Care-Larry
@@Backtothefutureradios You are so right about the "why we all don't drive the same car" comment! There are many channels on UA-cam about radio repair/restoration and I don't think you will ever find someone doing a repair/restoration "exactly" the way everyone else would. What I really enjoy is watching someone do a repair/restoration in a fashion that I wouldn't have done, and when I hear and see their reasoning and the results I am blown away! The differences in all of us is part of what makes life interesting and enjoyable. I think one thing that we all share in common is having parts fall apart by simply looking at them! Don't even have to touch them!
My subscribers are hams as well as experimenters and gun nuts pretty much run the gamut. Here lately I have been doing home repair videos because well things just happen. But the most views came from my Ham fest videos so go figure its hard to guess what people like to watch. But I do love to watch your radio restoration radios because well lets face it I am always trying to learn more. Unfortunately those coils are pretty fragile on those old radios.
Greetings: A dropper capacitor of about 12 mfd 450vdc non-polarized can substitute for a heat-generating dropper resistor of about 208 ohms. Ebay has them for $4 + $3.50 shipping. If you go by 185 ohms for dropping value with less than 125vac, then 14uf will work for a similar price. Less heat dissipation is better, I think. The above was written before seeing your non-polar ceiling fan capacitor. Fan
Thanks! Im going to try an 8 uF and see how that works, I have another one that is 1 and 2 uF to add to it if the 8 is not enuf… I will be trying it soon and we see if the theory works! Thanks for watching! Take Care-Larry
What is the advantage of switching the neutral? I always put the switch on the hot side after the fuse. It is safer that way. If you have the switch on neutral with the radio off, you touch the chassis and ground and you become the switch. Not good.
Bill, I agree with you…The way this radio is wired….the line cord goes straight to the switch and connects to the wiper of the pot……I could rewire the pot and use that line as the hot….Thanks….I will look at how hard it would be and if it causes any other issues elsewhere…Off the top of my head, I think it will work!! Thanks again!! Take Care-Larry
Larry, I am working on an Acratone model 5B which is very similar to yours. The only difference is that mine has a ballast tube. When I change the power cord and plug I was thinking of going with a polarized plug with the neutral going to chassis ground and the hot line going to the on/off volume with and then running a wire to the 25Z5. Also do you have a part number on the on/off volume switch. Great video. Regards, Bob
Thanks Bob! I think on my video, I was looking at the way it was wired and you had a 50/50 chance of chassis being hot…..From advice from one of my subscribers, I am going to do the same as you just described. The on/off switch is made by a company GM lab….the rating on it is stamped…..1 amp @250v and 3 amp @125v….Hope this helps. Take Care-Larry
@@Backtothefutureradios Hello Larry, I would appreciate the resistance of the potentiometer because my schematic doesn't indicate the value. I was able to obtain a 15K reverse taper control from Antique Audio but just wanted to verify that what they suggested is correct.
Thanks gd! (Real name?)….I had calculated just under 9 uf (8.8)…. Im going with an 8 to see how it goes…as you know, calculations (especially with ac are not always exact sometimes). Spoiler alert, I have a cap that I can add either 1 or 2 uf to this 8 to get closer if needed….Problem Im working with is space in, on, under, around this chassis….lol….Thanks for your comments! I always like folks giving input, it helps me, to stay more focused and there is nothing wrong with peer checking! Thanks for watching and subscribing! Take Care-Larry
Stop looking at that radio so hard! Every component you look at breaks! And then you also start being careful not to bump one component and wind up bumping something else! Isn't it fun working on old radios that have been slowly drying out and getting more and more brittle for 90 years? ;-)
lol, for a while! I thought I may have superman vision breaking stuff with my eyes! Wouldnt be so bad if I had a schematic I knew was accurate or knew where everything actually goes……you can see where wires have been soldered and either broken off or moved…If the coils break again, I may have to insert a tube inside to mount it….hopefully, I can be careful….ha ha….I havent even started poking around on the speaker! 😬…Thanks for watching and commenting! Take Care-Larry
Fine Episode Larry!
Even despite your 2 mishaps with that Coil! LOL!!! I'm sure that your latest repair on it, will turn out just fine! From all I've seen, your repairs most generally, always do! 😊
In watching this episode, I was reminded of how much I appreciate they way you explain things, as opposed to the way a few others attempt to explain them!
I guess perhaps that's because just like me, you appear to be from rural upbringings, and thus, are as similarly plainspoken as I am! 😊
Will be anxiously looking forward to Part 3, and seeing, (as well as learning), what all you will do with this radio, and why each repair, and/or replacement, was necessary!
When I began watching yours and others' Radio Repair & Restoration Videos, nearly 3 years ago; I was very surprised, to find that the experience I gained from the 3 separate Electricity Classes I'd taken over the years, (and the info I still retain from each of them), make it fairly easy to understand both Tube & Transistor Radio Schematics, and how they work!
Although; I must admit, that if & when I ever get started, in this hobby, myself; I'm fairly sure I'll still have some learning to do, when it comes to troubleshooting! 🙂
Take Care, & Will Catch You Again Soon, in Part 3!!
Ron
Thanks Ron! I learn something every time I work on one of these radios….The mishaps, was avoidable, yes, coils are always fragile, but these were really in bad places and rotten….Im hoping I can reinstall them without issue..
One of my subscriber pointed out something on something I said about wiring the power cord…..He was right, and I will be utilizing his suggestion in Part 3….
In the beginning, I was afraid to remove parts…afraid I couldnt figure how to put them back in correctly, (long before I made videos, lol)……Pictures, documentation, notes, drawings etc….I started getting the confidence in taking them more and more apart…
There are lots of guys on youtube that have really good troubleshooting videos out there….I watch a lot of them….
Thanks for watching….Take Care-Larry
The resistance line cord has an asbestos wrapped resistive element. You will have to add a resistor for the bulbs
and motor run type (non polarized electrolytic) capacitor to replace it with a regular line cord since you have very little
space inside to put anything else in. Make sure the new capacitor specs for high AC voltage ( 250 VAC).
This is NOT a beginners radio to work on for sure.
Thanks for the comments/advice…Ive calculated the cap to be roughly 8-9uf…..Ive bought a 8 uf 250 v fan cap….also a 50 ohm, 5 watt resistor for the lamps shunt……This chassis was made for either ballast or resistive line cord…..there is a hole for a ballast tube and hopefully I can screw the cap where that hole is and maybe a terminal strip for the shunt…. Thanks for watching! Take Care-Larry
Don't feel pressured by the a.m. radio restoration crowd, I think your concept of working on amateur radio equipment is a good one thanks for letting me look over your shoulder 73
Thanks for the tutorial, looking forward to following the logic!
I hope we can get thru it!! Thanks for watching and commenting!! Take Care-Larry
I have no idea what you are doing or how it works, but it is fascinating to watch! Thanks for sharing! Liked and CONNECTED!
Larry - I know as well how brittle those old cardboard coil formers are; you can look at them wrong and they fall apart. LOL Nice job repairing both of them and I’m looking forward to your voltage dropping calculations and shunt resistor… Best, Don
Great video Larry, boy this radio reminds me of my tiny two tube Emerson CF-255! Very similar circuits and I eliminated the curtain burner cord using a capacitor as well to get rid of any heat. I also added a power resistor as part of that light bulb circuit as well. That little radio is one of my favorites and plays awesome. You'll have this old girl singing again in no time.
Thanks Gregg! Hopefully, I can work on this more this week and make some progress….Thanks for reminding me of your Emerson, I will have to go back and watch that again! Take Care-Larry
Like you are im a amateur radio operator but I love these old radios too. I hope you keep making these videos because I've learned a lot so far.
Absolutely! WB4RHA
Thanks Josh! I have several more of “these” old radios to repair…hopefully, I will continue for a few more years…..I got into QRP back 20 years ago….built several kits and homebrewed others…..I learned a lot during that period…several organizations out there who still do that….that may be something you might be interested in. Thanks for watching and commenting! Take Care-Larry
Me 2
( A old G1 )
Larry, I look forward to seeing the capacitor used. Thanks
You are doing a fantastic job on this one Larry!
I have never understood the reasoning of putting the dial and mechanical stuff in front of the speaker, and this is not the only one that does that. I think there is at least one Zenith that has that aspect to it. I realize that it saves space, but I personally don't want anything other than grill cloth in front of speakers on radios that I own.
This one is already a very interesting project...and it really makes you wonder about the reasoning of others that came before you and why they did the things they did.
Thanks Wayne! I guess one of the reasons they put dials in front of the speakers was style and something different…probably why we all dont drive the same car? One of the interesting things I run into these 1930’s radios is, during WWII….most radio repairmen were at war…..folks needed their radios fixed…so some handyman made repairs anyway he could to get Mrs. Jones’ radio playing again with whatever parts he could come up with….pretty interesting…Today, we call those hacks….they did what they had to to make it work! Thanks for watching and as always the comments! Take Care-Larry
@@Backtothefutureradios You are so right about the "why we all don't drive the same car" comment! There are many channels on UA-cam about radio repair/restoration and I don't think you will ever find someone doing a repair/restoration "exactly" the way everyone else would. What I really enjoy is watching someone do a repair/restoration in a fashion that I wouldn't have done, and when I hear and see their reasoning and the results I am blown away! The differences in all of us is part of what makes life interesting and enjoyable. I think one thing that we all share in common is having parts fall apart by simply looking at them! Don't even have to touch them!
Boy the old ones sure are fragile, aren't they? Especially if the radio was an inexpensive one to begin with. Great work, Larry. Michael
My subscribers are hams as well as experimenters and gun nuts pretty much run the gamut. Here lately I have been doing home repair videos because well things just happen. But the most views came from my Ham fest videos so go figure its hard to guess what people like to watch. But I do love to watch your radio restoration radios because well lets face it I am always trying to learn more. Unfortunately those coils are pretty fragile on those old radios.
A bit of a mess, huh? Look forward to your voltage dropping solution. Thanks!
Greetings:
A dropper capacitor of about 12 mfd 450vdc non-polarized can substitute for a heat-generating dropper resistor of about 208 ohms. Ebay has them for $4 + $3.50 shipping.
If you go by 185 ohms for dropping value with less than 125vac, then 14uf will work for a similar price. Less heat dissipation is better, I think.
The above was written before seeing your non-polar ceiling fan capacitor.
Fan
Thanks! Im going to try an 8 uF and see how that works, I have another one that is 1 and 2 uF to add to it if the 8 is not enuf… I will be trying it soon and we see if the theory works! Thanks for watching! Take Care-Larry
What is the advantage of switching the neutral? I always put the switch on the hot side after the fuse. It is safer that way. If you have the switch on neutral with the radio off, you touch the chassis and ground and you become the switch. Not good.
Bill, I agree with you…The way this radio is wired….the line cord goes straight to the switch and connects to the wiper of the pot……I could rewire the pot and use that line as the hot….Thanks….I will look at how hard it would be and if it causes any other issues elsewhere…Off the top of my head, I think it will work!! Thanks again!! Take Care-Larry
Larry, I am working on an Acratone model 5B which is very similar to yours. The only difference is that mine has a ballast tube. When I change the power cord and plug I was thinking of going with a polarized plug with the neutral going to chassis ground and the hot line going to the on/off volume with and then running a wire to the 25Z5. Also do you have a part number on the on/off volume switch. Great video. Regards, Bob
Thanks Bob! I think on my video, I was looking at the way it was wired and you had a 50/50 chance of chassis being hot…..From advice from one of my subscribers, I am going to do the same as you just described. The on/off switch is made by a company GM lab….the rating on it is stamped…..1 amp @250v and 3 amp @125v….Hope this helps. Take Care-Larry
@@Backtothefutureradios
Hello Larry,
Thanks for the quick reply. I am looking forward to part 3 and beyond.
@@surfbull Do you need the resistance of the potentiometer?
@@Backtothefutureradios
Hello Larry,
I would appreciate the resistance of the potentiometer because my schematic doesn't indicate the value. I was able to obtain a 15K reverse taper control from Antique Audio but just wanted to verify that what they suggested is correct.
@@surfbull mine is 50k
I think 8 uf is a bit low so the Xc Should be
81 ohms for a 24 v drop at 300 ma with 60 hz +/- a bit LOL
Thanks gd! (Real name?)….I had calculated just under 9 uf (8.8)…. Im going with an 8 to see how it goes…as you know, calculations (especially with ac are not always exact sometimes). Spoiler alert, I have a cap that I can add either 1 or 2 uf to this 8 to get closer if needed….Problem Im working with is space in, on, under, around this chassis….lol….Thanks for your comments! I always like folks giving input, it helps me, to stay more focused and there is nothing wrong with peer checking! Thanks for watching and subscribing! Take Care-Larry
Stop looking at that radio so hard! Every component you look at breaks! And then you also start being careful not to bump one component and wind up bumping something else! Isn't it fun working on old radios that have been slowly drying out and getting more and more brittle for 90 years? ;-)
lol, for a while! I thought I may have superman vision breaking stuff with my eyes! Wouldnt be so bad if I had a schematic I knew was accurate or knew where everything actually goes……you can see where wires have been soldered and either broken off or moved…If the coils break again, I may have to insert a tube inside to mount it….hopefully, I can be careful….ha ha….I havent even started poking around on the speaker! 😬…Thanks for watching and commenting! Take Care-Larry
In some cases all you have to do is breathe on some components and they crumble!