AC to DC Flux Wire Welder 110 Volt from Harbor Freight
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Did changing this welder from AC to DC welds make an improvement? Thanks to your tips and a new adjustable shade welding mask, I am starting to get the hang of welding with flux core, I think. This 90 Amp Harbor Freight Welder has been modified into DC output (here is the video: • Convert Welder from AC... ), making the clamp Positive and the gun Electrode Negative. This is the recommended polarity for using flux core wire by most of the welders I've studied.
Feel like buying me a coffee? Click here! www.buymeacoff...
At 5:35 - What is causing the welder to be so choppy?
Video of modifying the 110 volt Harbor Freight 90 amp MIG flux core welder: • Convert Welder from AC...
DISCLAIMER: MARK YOUNG MAKES NO WARRANTY/GUARANTEE, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, AS TO THE RESULTS OBTAINED FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS VIDEO OR ON THIS PAGE/PLATFORM, DIRECTLY OR THROUGH THIRD PARTY SHARING. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES WILL MARK YOUNG BE RESPONSIBLE OR LIABLE IN ANY WAY FOR ANY CONTENT, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY ERRORS OR OMISSIONS IN THE CONTENT, EXPRESSLY OR IMPLIED, OR FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY KIND INCURRED AS A RESULT OF ANY CONTENT COMMUNICATED OR IMPLIED IN THIS VIDEO AND/OR ON THIS PAGE/PLATFORM, WHETHER BY MARK YOUNG OR ANY THIRD PARTY. IN NO EVENT SHALL MARK YOUNG BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY CERTAIN, SPECIAL, INDIRECT OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR ANY DAMAGES WHATSOEVER RESULTING FROM LOSS OR USE OF ANY INFORMATION COMMUNICATED ASSOCIATED WITH THIS VIDEO AND/OR PAGE/PLATFORM. THE INFORMATION PROVIDED SHOULD NOT REPLACE PROFESSIONAL ADVICE. THIS AGREEMENT ALSO EXTENDS TO ANYONE AND/OR ANYTHING, THIRD PARTY, WHICH MAY BE ASSOCIATED WITH THIS VIDEO, PAGE/PLATFORM, AND/OR MARK YOUNG. MARK YOUNG MAY, AT ANY TIME, REVISE THE INFORMATION ON THIS VIDEO AND/OR PAGE/PLATFORM WITHOUT NOTICE, AND MAKES NO COMMITMENT TO UPDATE THIS INFORMATION. NECESSARY SAFETY EQUIPMENT/ENVIRONMENT, DISPLAYED OR NOT, DISCUSSED OR NOT, IS UP TO THE USER TO DETERMINE WHAT IS NEEDED FOR THEIR OWN SAFETY, THE SAFETY OF OTHERS, AND PROPERTY.
You should grind the spot that you attach your ground clamp to and even clean the inside of the jaws with a wire brush from time to time so that you get the best welds possible on that machine. I would even get a solid brass ground clamp that really grips the material (available at harbor freight), the stock clamp is too weak and only makes contact with the points of the teeth. I'm not sure what brand of wire you are using, but I highly recommend using Lincoln Innershield nr-211-mp. I use the 0.035" wire as well as tips. By the way, keep the tip from touching the material. Usually about a half inch of wire "stick out" is fine. Your welds at setting #5 were the best, but the speed at which you move is also important. Slow down a little and try this: write a long row of lower case "e" with the torch tip instead of the zig-zag method. As you loop back and overlap the last "e", you are applying more heat in that area resulting in more penetration. If I was welding that exact same piece of metal, I would set the machine to setting #3 or even #2 and move my hand a bit slower, while keeping half to three quarters of an inch of stick out, and making my loops about a quarter inch in diameter so that i get much hotter weld. You'll notice that the hotter you get your welds, the bead will blend with the material as opposed to building up filler metal.
I use the same exact machine, so I know what it can do.
You get better welds when you take your time.
Wow, John, thank you for all the tips! To be honest, I have been neglecting cleaning the off clamp! Good point! I have not tried the lower case e movement, so that I will do. Slowing down the travel too. Thanks again, appreciate your help.
Best comment I've seen on UA-cam in a Iong time..I tool screenshot of it so when I buy the titanium 125 I ll remember to get brass clasmp and Lincoln wire..hoping the titanium 125 is worth the extra 60$ since its dc
Plus the gun angle looks a bit extreme.
Å POP
Not with thin rusted metal but you are right though about what speed he should go
I done a thicker piece of metal just a test run at a low speed between 3 and 4 it done good on max heat temperature mid temperature does fine but is to slow for me
Don't get hung up on wire speed. Application matters a lot. Stay in the puddle. You should be between 1/2 to 1 inch away from your work piece, gun 45 degree by 15 degree drag. Watch the joint. You don't have to move your stick around to get your rippled look. Move around to meld your joint. If you slow down and put the heat into the metal, you'll get better penetration.
Yes . Wait until the puddle forms and travel at the speed the metal edges form the beads .
Mine is like always between 1½ for thin and 3 for 3/16th . Using the flux core . Faster speeds might be for thinner wire with gas shielding .
Fa
When you increase wire feed speed you increase the amperage resulting in a hotter weld. For your thicker steels (1/8 - 3/16), use an increased wire feed speed for a hotter weld and deeper penetration. You will find (setting 7,8 & 9), the weld pool will lay flatter and penetrate deeper, creating a flatter, more even beed profile. watch your weld pool and be sure to zig-zag back into it and stop just before the edges 91/16th and allow the weld pool to flow to them rather than going past them, this will help your lap and corner joints. There are a few techniques that you could use 1) lower case cursive "e's" 2) lower case "u's" with a pause at both top points (weave pattern) 3) my favorite, "hockey sticks". This consists of making a semi straight line with a slight curve at the end and then reverse back to start position. Keep your distance, torch angle and travel speed the same and it is almost as if you are painting with a paint brush. The beed will stack up like dimes and your consistency will become more accurate. Good luck and happy welding!
Steve Porchia thank you for all of that information, very helpful!
Yes. With this feed, not knowing how many IPS that is, I’d recommend starting with a high feed, and going down one setting a time. You’ve got a combination of thicknesses. One way to look at this is to use a setting that’s closer to the thicker of the metals. But your welder isn’t rated for anything over 3/16, so that’s a problem for the thicker part, which looks to be closer to 3/8.
So go as high as you can on both settings, and weld closer to the thicker part, and linger a bit, then quickly move to the thinner part, and quickly move back, linger, etc. if you weld straight on, the thick part will weld too cold, and the thin part, too hot.
Also, remove the tape to at least 1/2” past the tip. It’s contaminating your welds.
@@melgross The wire speed is wonky with these things. Here are the wire speeds i've found.
Speed 1: 135 inch/min
Speed 5: 180 inch/min
Speed 10: 380 inch/min
It appears the potentiometer is not linear but logarithmic.
LBCAndrew yeah, that’s a problem. I tell people to measure the wire at different settings, and write it down.
The wire feed speed does not increase the amperage.
For the cost of that welder versus what you can do with it it’s worth every dime of what you pay for it
I used to have an AC welder and then bought an Everlast welder which by chance is a DC welder. It was night and day difference for me. I'll never go back to AC.
Mark Young,
I am just a hobby welder. I do have an old friend who got his A&P license and landed a job welding pressure tanks for an aerospace company. I see lots of videos of folks making fuzzy caterpillar "welds," with these toy boxes. My friend, he's consistent quality bead man with exotic alloys. What a guy! Keeping America safe!
He and his work is much appreciated. I have a better understanding of what it takes to make those welds happen. I'm still trying to get the hang of it, and maybe the machinery is hindering that effort?
@@contact4mwy7
There is a certification video on UA-cam of weld on 8 inch pipe with 220v and rod.
He was running 80A all the way around on vertical oriented pipe. The instructor pointed out that student had to correct burn through during his welding pass. The gap began to increase in size. It's a fine art. With these wire feed boxes I have attained some skill with sheet metal on bbq and oven burner elements. Saving replacing the burner assys.
There is also a good tutorial of a high end refrigeration solder job on copper tube where the man injects low pressure pure nitrogen gas into the tubing to eliminate any residual oxidation for zero contaminate in the refrigerant system.
There is also a pdf download on the internet for a D/C IC control circuit. Fairchild produced a good 125A Inverter for the application.
@@contact4mwy7 It's the wire itself that lacks the cross sectional material. It is filled with flux, therfore being devoid of steel internally, the wire distorts while feeding through the roller. So at molecular level the wire is not consistently posessing a constant resistance/load in ohms. And zero labs man addressed the issue of these boxes already having additional voltage drop of wire drive supply coming directly off the secondary windings. And the D/C conversion with rectifiers drops the voltage another 1.3 volts as a normal function of a silicon diode. Yes, these are limited machines.
A 220v welder, makes anyone a good welder just by repetition 1000 times.
Brain entrainment.
To really see the quality of weld you’re producing, you should do the best job you can on some good quality practice pieces and then “cross section” the welded work (ie cut thru the work in a direction perpendicular to the weld bead). You can use an angle grinder or hacksaw. Examining the cross section will show you the original pieces, the weld bead and the true penetration between the two. Good luck. 👍
Joe Romanak very good advice! Thank you for commenting.
A few suggestions. Get a much better earthing clamp with a thicker and better quality earth wire. Use the best quality flux core wire you can afford - this improves spatter greatly. Always clean the weld at each stop. If you feel the earth wire getting hot have a break until it cools down - the standard cables resistance goes crazy the hotter it gets. You get a good sounding start but then loose the rhythm of the weld by being impatient - set the beat in your head like a music track and concentrate on maintaining it - I have specific tracks I reference for specific thicknesses of material ! Also I have found the higher voltage machines @ 240 volts make a huge difference. Having said all of that you look to be doing just fine. The real fun and games comes on sheet steel and I am still struggling on that, but stitching seems to work if very slow. It beats my A/C stick buzz box hands down though on this :-).
Thank you, John, much appreciated and very helpful!
Get yourself a Lincoln buzz box and a box of 6013 rod and practice running stringers, lots and lots of stringers
It seems that trying to go slow is every new welder's problem - mine too. Wire feed speed, voltage setting and travel speed, if not correct will result in either weak welds or holes blown through the project material. I'm still learning and it will never stop.
I'm still learning too. Using scrap materials to practice first seems to be the way to go before taking on the "important" stuff!
With what u have u done a good job,,, I have been welding for many years and if I could make a suggesting,,,if u can position the bucket to where u have to weld up hill u will get better penetration just make sure u keep the stinger up close and let the weld fall back down and it will penetrate better
First off take, and use both hands for maximum control , second turn up your wire feed to 6 or 7 on that thick of material, take and slow down a bit, and third take and tighten your wire feed tension knob till you cant stop your wire with your hands. Its taken me a bit to figure this out too
not all flux core wire is M=multipass, I learned from Jody at weldingtipsandtricks... I'm a newbie myself but thanks for sharing.. the other thing i recall was not to 'weave' with fluxcore... it inhibits the 'slag' from forming properly.. I think I got that correct God bless and thanks again : D
Jimmy Favereau good advice that I will look into, thank you very much!
You are right on both of those, using the right wire is important, and if you weave too wide you can definitely trap slag inside your weld causing what is known as a slag inclusion.
Turn the feed up. You are only running at 50-60 amps at #5 wire speed.
I find running the voltage a step down from max, and the wire feed almost maxed out. Works really well with 1/8 and 3/16" steel.
Voltage x amperes = watts (power)
Your wire feed is your amps!
Thanks for that comment, Leroy, I will experiment with that!
Most everyone says that, I just get a big blob sitting on material that has no penetration. Next trick is gonna be run it slow and hope for something to join.
You hold still when you strike an acr starting a seam . Wait until the 2 metals run together . It might take 5 or 10 seconds to start the bead puddle . Just wait . then start traveling along making yhe beads form at the speed the temperature you set goes . Higer temp goes deeper wider bead . If thhe wire arc stutters the wire speed is too slow . If the wire feed pushes against the puddle and work pieces shoving you back faster than it can be used to make the arc you slow the speed down .
Good advice, thank you
I usually put my machine on about 8.5 to 9 on the wire speed on that thickness it works pretty good
I agree, Wade. I've been experimenting with wire speed since there are only two amp/voltage settings.
There is a chart under the lid . Pick flux core and thickness and it gives recomended speed and piwer level . Harbor freight and flux core can use around 3 for that metal . If the wire pushes your stick back its too fast if it stops and starts it is too slow . If you can splatter at wire feed speed 9 you aren't running a bead with a harbor frejght 90 amp 24 volt ac wire feed welder . Top speed is for threading a new roll quickly but not welding with the flux core .
I have an ac flux core welder and it does a fine job. I know a lot of guys give it a bad rep, trust me the flux is in the puddle for either ac or dc and it floats to the top in either case. Some guys think half the wire is lost due to spatter, no way.
Thank you for that comment, Rob. I have found it to be a fine art to balance between heat and wire speed and travel speed.
@@contact4mwy7 on thin stuff you have to stop and wait for excess heat to cool and start and stop watching the 2 metals melt together and that determines the speed you travel . Power determines how deep it melts .
Follow the seam first pass steady folliwing the seam you want to make . It does an evener and easier job people say and i believe them and saves a lot of time and wire and usually is stronger if you can do it that way . Sometimes a gap needs filling by weaving . But stop when it gets too hot fir however many seconds it takes to cool . If you see bright metal bigger than the weld bead puddle looking through the helmet it is getting too hot . The thicker the metal the longer to cool to a worjabke temoerature .
You actually improved. Your expecting the machine to do the process of welding for you. Build a puddle ,cut out metal of both pieces using the arc and fill it in using the puddle. You are pulling the gun along expecting to adjust the machine until it produces a weld you like. If you cannot properly weld it doesn't matter how you adjust that machine you're never going to get a good weld. You should be able to produce a weld with almost any setting on there regardless of it's too hot or too cold or in the metal is too thin or too thick what is yours not the right wire. It ain't setting I've never seen you build up a puddle and maintain it along the weld so don't expect to be able to keep adjusting the machine when you are inconsistent and get a weld somehow. Keep watching UA-cam videos homewell professionals not welding Harbor Freight hacks LOL
These 110 welding machines work best when plugged into a dedicated 110 circuit . If you must use an extension cord , it should be as short as possible and one with number 12 wire
.
Actually mig is one of the hardest to do right. People think they are getting a good weld because it’s kind of like using a glue gun. Without penetration a weld won’t hold if its structural. That’s why in welding school after making welds they cut a cross section out to see what really happened. You can’t tell by looking at it or just banging on it. A weld that looks good today can fail weeks or months later.
Good advice, Gene, thank you.
I recently bought an inverter welder OMG I can't believe the difference, you should try one, I put away my old transformer welder.
Thanks for that, good to know.
Nice flow, less spatter?
I much prefer welding DC but even more so from my everlast inverter welder.
How did you change the current to DC on your harbor welder? I have the harbor freight 125amp
I added an AC to DC rectifier that was able to carry the amperage of the AC output. Nothing fancy, and certainly not as good as a factory made DC welder. Not to mention it was a bit on the dangerous side playing with those volts and amps. Lol.
That looks very similar to my hood. Except mine is a bit more similar to the Esab A50 which is actually my favorite hood. But this one was $50 (compared to $300) and has the external adjustment knob (exactly the same as yours). I actually really like it. Though I intend on making a mirrored outer lens like the Esab, as I feel it makes a significant difference in looks, though I know it's strictly cosmetic and has no real benefit
Also Dip your tip in nozzle cleaner. When you're working close it will keep this splatter from sticking to your tip
Thanks for the advice, Anthony.
@@contact4mwy7 Anytime. They also make a spray in a aerosol can you can lightly spray your tip or spray Your bench top work area… this will keep Splatter from sticking also.www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Anti-Spatter-Non-Stick-Spray-KH505/100341087?mtc=Shopping-B-F_Brand-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Catchall_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_Brand-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Catchall_PLA-71700000014585962-58700001236285396-92700010802552397&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwivbsBRDsARIsADyISJ_P80JwWQ4nDyRxsN8XDyW7aHogzlOk-BYt0pKDCL2Y4SV13Au3m_saAtppEALw_wcB.
And for a super clean Weld... There are 2 Welding wire pads… they install where your spool Is… just before the wire goes into the tube. This cleans the wire as it comes to the gun.weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF:X:007062
I done my wire speed on 4 and lower for me the lower speed done ok for my project
Is the black tape the modification? Put mig tip back on. It helps out with keeping distance and you won't won't be arcing out your tip.
Mark Cobb it's part of the modification. The real difference is that the welder is now generating on DC voltage instead of AC. Quite a few have recommended to me, and in other videos, to take off the metal tip and use a plastic one instead to get right in close to the work piece. It does actually seem to help. Thanks for the comment.
More superglue. Lots more superglue.
I think you're angle too low. Try 80° Ground it really hard. Clean the surface right where youre gonna start everytime you start. Faster feed, slower drag. Puddle like youre gonna fish in it.
Is that HF fluxwire? Change brand.
Invest in a good ground clamp. Get rid of the original post. It'll help a lot
I'll look into that, Jim, thanks for the tip!
Your first weld seemed to need a touch more heat or a bit slower feed second seemed like u moved to fast slow it down dont try to weld the whole space in 1 pass and also each additional pass is introducing more heat into the base metal making it easier to penetrate deeper with your weld
Trying to read your description is like reading a contract or something lmao
I know, I know, sorry.
Thanks for the tutorial
Is there anyway you can weld the back of that underneath of it make it even stronger probably
I done my deck that way and now the bracket is solid.
good enough for me
Good, but you didn't compare or explain DC vs AC ?
why didn't you listen to the manufacture and try speed 9 ? The faster the speed, the higher the AMPS and better penetration.
Do you have to squeeze button to make wire advance? I have only used stick welders. Thanks for the instruction, good information.
Bert Cochran yes you do have to pull the trigger to weld. The wire will advance at the speed you set and this also will switch on the charge to the wire for the arc. I hope this better helps you to understand how they work. Thanks for asking.
Bert Cochran yes. squeeze trigger to feed wire and turn power on at the tip.
Nothin wrong with sticks. In fact. The units themselves are cheaper and easier to repair
You took the tip of the gun to put an electrical tape? How did you do it?
Lol, yes! That's the mod!
I thought you were going to show the conversation from ac to DC. I just bough the Harbor freight 125. Not a welder so....school me as you learn.
Not a welder either, but thanks! I uploaded a video before this one showing the (somewhat messy) conversion of this welder from AC to DC. Let me know if you can't find it.
Hows it not it heats both metals and makes them stick together and says that it is a welder so if it's not a welder what is it
@@Mike-su8si I wasn't a welder, but that was a year ago... I'm still not a welder but I did the conversation and it works much bettet.
@@davidfellows6250 not no fluxer welder it all I'm more better off cutting people and friends trees down. I don't see myself as an welder.
I hate to throw color in this but some places like were I could have had my deck welded at would have charged us more because of color like the junkyards always have done. I'm not that way though if i have a engine part or frame part anyone could use their welcome to it.
The new Titanium 125 is a DC inverter welder. World of difference over the old AC unit.
Great video. Thx
That stuff looks like cast steel and will eventually . break no matter who welds it . At least that brake part thing is junk metal .
How well did that helmet work out with out in the adjustable knob on the side?
Mike Okay The adjustable shade helmet allows better visibility of what you are working on over the set visibility helmet (no knob), which I believe I saw that those are more geared to stick welding. The first battery that came pre-installed didn't last very long. You do have to be careful not to set the shade too light or you can do permanent damage to your eyes. I wish I had bought an adjustable shade helmet, with the knob, the first time. I hope that helps.
Aren't brake parts like a heat tolerant type of metal? SMH.... My HF 90A runs a lot better after I changed it to DC-E and I didn't use any caps.
How did you change it to DC
By adding an AC to DC Rectifier, and a large capacitor.
It ain’t gotta be pretty just has to work good job and how did you switch that welder to dc?
I appreciate that. I followed the steps of others in converting it to DC by adding a DC Bridge Rectifier and a large capacitor. I have a video of that too, and it also isn't pretty, lol.
Why didn't you start with 9 and go down from the machines recommendations ? On this welder the wire speed determines the amperage !
Ed Pontiff thanks for the comment, im learning that as i go. I will experiment more with the wire speeds to see what the results show.
There are only two amperage settings. Feed speed doesn't affect or even connect to the circuit with the gun on it.
@@cavemanjoe7972 Actually there are only two voltage settings. Wirespeed is directly related to current on a constant voltage machine like this.
@@samnottheotherone4363
It's a pain in the ass, regardless. I use a stick machine; much more simple. I never was big on circuitry.😁
@@cavemanjoe7972 Ha I hope you never have to deal with aluminum TIG then.
Welding on top of wood...What could go wrong??? I use a piece of cement board...
Itll start to break if you get it too hot
not bad
Sounded terrible work on wire feed setting and wire length, angle, and weave, should sound like a steady sizzle like bacon cooking
Wow, those are some really bad welds.
You should see mine.. You'd cry..
some of the welds are okay welds I've seen worse. He's an intermediate welder in this video.
Need more speed. Start at the recommended then adjust
Walter Welch Thanks, I'll try that!
How come you never show what model welder?
This is a follow-up video to the 90 Amp Flux Core Wire Welder I bought from Harbor Freight, but I should have mentioned that in the video. This is the video that shows the model and the modifications I made... ua-cam.com/video/iAcbMg8l2A4/v-deo.html
Mark, came across a video on different wire comparisons and apparently INE produces the best (minimal slag mess) wire out there compared against harbor freight, Lincoln and of course INE. Needless to say the INE took the cake hands down! I'll post the link if you want to try some and from the looks of it, I think you will!!!
INE Wire link:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E2RF0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Video Refrence:
ua-cam.com/video/P3j91ruEYvw/v-deo.html
Steve Porchia thanks a lot, good to know, I'll check it out!
I saw the video and went to Amazon and found it. $20 a two pound roll but sounds worth it to me.
Try a cursive e pattern instead of a zig zag?.
I will try that, if it's ok to use that method with flux core.
Y not grind a beveled eage in it ti better hold the weld
That should definitely help.
Dear God, Thank you for high school welding shop and learning the difference between a 220v stick welder and a 110v
22 gauge sheet metal buzz box. I will pray for kids that hopefully do not electrocute themselves with adding capacitors and storing 20Amperes of lethal current.
And thank you for my AAS degree in electronics. I can trouble shoot computerized systems down to discrete component level. And my grown son can write assembly code for Linux. Education, a wonderful thing.
And as Mark Young showed, this is not a machine for the thickness steel attempted.
Just a hairy caterpillar piled on top.
220v @80amps. A $600 Lincoln 225A.
Amen!
@@contact4mwy7
I had to clarify at the end. The premise is the same. Thanks sir. I had to find a video with your concise and gifted speaking ability. Young men being good followers when logic is presented correctly.
Have a fine day.
I learned how to weld from lack of electrical tape on appliances
To tell you the truth, i dont understand why putting in a cap. It just makes for more spatter. Want more amps? Add a microwave oven transformer in parallel. But yank the secondary coil (thin windings) and replace with. 8AWG at 14 or 15 turns. Connect paralel with original transformer. Youll add more amps without adding volts.
Caps are dangerous, dont last long.
Hood
Why aren't you listening to your welder? It's suppose to have one solid sound. It'll tell you what it needs. Im a green horn at flux welding but all the videos i have watched they mentioned the noise. I now listen and watch the puddle
Don't buy a cheap helmet. The cheap helmet I had did not have a replaceable battery. When the battery goes bad, you get blinding arc flashes when you start the weld. You have to toss the helmet and buy another cheap one. I bought the HF Vulcan welding helmet that sells for about $140. It has a replaceable battery. It's like night and day compared to my old, cheap helmet. There are others that are multi-purpose but the get into the $300-$600 price range.
Although mine was pretty cheap, it does have a replaceable battery, but I have to agree, going cheap on the welding hood is not always a good idea. Thanks for the comments!
You can get just lens replacement parts. And the right one has batts.
I thought I had bad welds, but yours look worse than mine, im new too
We are all new in the beginning.
It is a hood not a mask
Thx you.
Why..thats racists!!! J/K
No. Youre holding it at a low angle. Try 80°~90° angle.
Yes, you are right about that. Thank you.
@@contact4mwy7
But in all actuality, thats good enough for QA.
Ive seen some Chinese welds I wouldnt trust on a gallows pole. Like QA called in sick that day or something.
@@AngryHybridApe I appreciate that.
Good luck in learning. Looks are not that good but keep trying.
Thanks Robert
U r welding to fast slow down
wire speed 4 would be fine if you went slower.
Good to know, thanks Paul.
OMG, I don't know where to start....
Ugh...makes we wanna oxy weld.
mask? looks like a welding helmet to me.....
If you knew how to weld this would make all the difference in the world. When comparing welds you should be able to make the same pass every time. Then wire speed would make the difference. But it's your inability to make the same pass twice.😋
It is true, I am a beginner at this and have more to learn.
Ok I'm out that weld looks like a 3yr old on a coloring page of smurfs wow!@
Hahaha
Looks like 💩👍
But dont try tasting it to see if it is till it cools off 1st.
Looks like crap
I appreciate your honesty.
@@contact4mwy7 I welded flux core wires for yrs and you ight try just dragging it and cut the motion. I did you working with harbor freight stuff. Did not mean to offend when i started mine look almost the same.
@@johnw391 No offense taken. I understand your suggestion of just dragging the flux wire, and no side to side motion. I will try that. Thank you!