Elin, (although I’d rather chew gravel than try to repair a gearbox), I cannot help being fascinated with the sheer alacrity that you happily move all these terrifyingly confusing cogs and gear wheels around on your work bench with total confidence! Your consummate skills never cease to amaze me !! - Bless you buddy 🙏👍😊
You've once again saved me a lot of trouble before I made a huge mistake. The syncro teeth on all of our gears were shot, so we ordered replacements and bushings from Moss. #1 I ordered wrong. Learned that transmission serials are NOT sequential (CC, CD, CF) so got the wrong 1st and 2nd gears #2 The wrong bushings (steel) were in place in the transmission, which sit flush with the face of the gears (29:55), so the washers that sits against it also grinds against the gear itself #3 The new input shaft / 4th gear doesn't appear to match what is in place, no oil hole near the mainshaft spigot bearing (although it is the correct part #) #3 some of the gears I do need aren't available or BO And here I was thinking that once I got the rest of the (wrong) parts I order on Monday, I'll be reassembling the transmission. Nope.
Another great video! Thanks for sharing your experience, Elin. As an FYI, the aftermarket replacement for the brass ‘top hat’ bushing for 2nd gear can be found at Revington TR in the UK, and perhaps elsewhere. They have ‘uprate kits’ for TR4 to early TR6 gearboxes, including the correct steel bushing for 2nd, bushings for 1st and 3rd gear etc. At the current moment these are just under £150.
I’m getting ready to assemble my tr6 transmission and these videos have been a great help. I’m still waiting for my back ordered 2 piece top hat bushing from Rimmer bros.
To get that nasty circlip out, if you can find several flat blade screwdrivers of the right size and put one in each spline, then you can squeeze all the handles together to expand the clip around the whole shaft. Then with another hand, you can pry the thing up, but a third hand is helpful too. I was able to get the clip off in less than a minute with this method.
The trouble with " might as well change that while we are here" is that all too often modern replacement parts are poorer quality than the originals so I tend to keep anything that is not worn and only change stuff that is definitely in need of replacing.
When you inspect a gear for damage, aside from obvious chips/broken teeth, do you also have to inspect for excessive wear along the tooth contact surfaces? Like looking for wear through a 'hardened surface'....
Elin, (although I’d rather chew gravel than try to repair a gearbox), I cannot help being fascinated with the sheer alacrity that you happily move all these terrifyingly confusing cogs and gear wheels around on your work bench with total confidence! Your consummate skills never cease to amaze me !! - Bless you buddy 🙏👍😊
You've once again saved me a lot of trouble before I made a huge mistake. The syncro teeth on all of our gears were shot, so we ordered replacements and bushings from Moss.
#1 I ordered wrong. Learned that transmission serials are NOT sequential (CC, CD, CF) so got the wrong 1st and 2nd gears
#2 The wrong bushings (steel) were in place in the transmission, which sit flush with the face of the gears (29:55), so the washers that sits against it also grinds against the gear itself
#3 The new input shaft / 4th gear doesn't appear to match what is in place, no oil hole near the mainshaft spigot bearing (although it is the correct part #)
#3 some of the gears I do need aren't available or BO
And here I was thinking that once I got the rest of the (wrong) parts I order on Monday, I'll be reassembling the transmission. Nope.
Another great video! Thanks for sharing your experience, Elin. As an FYI, the aftermarket replacement for the brass ‘top hat’ bushing for 2nd gear can be found at Revington TR in the UK, and perhaps elsewhere. They have ‘uprate kits’ for TR4 to early TR6 gearboxes, including the correct steel bushing for 2nd, bushings for 1st and 3rd gear etc. At the current moment these are just under £150.
I’m getting ready to assemble my tr6 transmission and these videos have been a great help. I’m still waiting for my back ordered 2 piece top hat bushing from Rimmer bros.
To get that nasty circlip out, if you can find several flat blade screwdrivers of the right size and put one in each spline, then you can squeeze all the handles together to expand the clip around the whole shaft. Then with another hand, you can pry the thing up, but a third hand is helpful too. I was able to get the clip off in less than a minute with this method.
Good idea 👍
Normally you ask a Chef if he has extra Sugar or Flour...not Bushings!!
🤔
Great video, thank you
Awesome !
Words to live by Elin - "It's too early to be happy." (See action @22:22)
I wonder if the Stella Artois “assembly lube” may be why the spring clip comes out easier the next day
It makes a difference :)
If only I had You Tube in 1986 when I had my Mk3 spitfire ....
The trouble with " might as well change that while we are here" is that all too often modern replacement parts are poorer quality than the originals so I tend to keep anything that is not worn and only change stuff that is definitely in need of replacing.
When you inspect a gear for damage, aside from obvious chips/broken teeth, do you also have to inspect for excessive wear along the tooth contact surfaces? Like looking for wear through a 'hardened surface'....
First…glad that top hat bushing worked out!
Yep, I hope you enjoyed your coffee 😂
CT saves the day.
Hmmm... so your transmission is now "Trans" and identifies as a J-type instead of an A-type ?
It's a weird and wonderful world these days...... ;-)
😂 true
Overdrive reassignment surgery...
" THEY " are happier now too!!