Regarding my description of lower flash output = shorter t.1 flash duration / superior action freezing. This is true of all IGBT (insulated gate bipolar transistor). This includes all the battery-attached Godox X-series product (speedlights, AD200, AD300, AD360, AD400, AD600, AD1200, as well as the top end AC strobes like QT series and P2400. This is also true of all the battery-on-board devices on the market. However there are still non-IGBT strobes on the market. These are variable voltage strobes, typically more budget focused AC-powered lights, like Godox MS and SK series. Variable voltage strobes do not have the same relationship between power level and shorter t.1 flash durations.
OK, this is the only video i have watched that has explained it simple as you did. But, I just got the Paul C Buff Einsteins 640WS. Im a rodeo photographer and these lights dont have HSS but they do have a action mode. If im outside and its daylight/sunset which i probably don't need the lights but lets say i do how should i setup my lights to freeze the action with flash duration?
Thanks for making this video. I''ve had a strobe in my hands (AD 600 pro) 2 weeks and had worked the concepts you cover in this video out in my mind, but it helps to hear it again. I'll try and make my question here refined so you can provide the best answer. I am an amateur photographer, shot mostly wildlife till recently, but my love is dance. I have access to many high level performers because they are friends of mine, and to improve my skills I envisioned shooting them in a controlled environment. There is of course lots of rotational movement (sometimes spinning, or arm/leg movements). It became quickly apparent (in my mind) that the battle would be between a deep enough DOF (to keep movement that is not parallel to the sensor plane sharp), and short t0.1 time - with enough power to capture and freeze movement within the sync speed (i.e. higher ISOs). My question becomes the following: Something like the 2400p is way out of budget. Would it be more successful to add more lights that could sync as a group (i.e. higher light output at lower power) or a more powerful source (i.e. AD 1200 pro). I realize some of this depends on how you want to light the background and dancer (i.e. edge + key light), but this is more a theoretic question for the future. (i.e. would 3 AD 600 pro lights be better than one 600 pro + a 1200 Pro). Weird question or make some sense? Thanks in advance.
I have AD200, going to explorer this freeze motion using flash… I’m still trying to wrap my head around how or why it works… going to re-watch this bunch of times & practice. Thx for sharing this! Very helpful for a beginner
I absolutely love your videos, they are SUPER informative and really well explained :)!!!! thanks for all your hard work...I will do these type of photo as soon as possible :)!
Some situations camera panning can help to lessen motion on subject, but then blur background instead. Car example is where a pan might be part of solution too ( but not for rotation of course )
Generally speaking, what would you say is a BARE MINIMUM t0.1 value to freeze motion? In other words, for freezing motion using a strobe/speedlight, you would recommend avoiding flashes with a t0.1 value < x.... What is that "x"?
Is the motion blur for a zoom lens greater than that of a wide angle lens simply because the zoom causes more pixels on the camera's sensor to be affected by the blurry subject which is larger due to the effect of the zoom?
Thanks Rob! Can you share what the rest of your settings were on that bike shot for the 1/8000th shutter speed, such as power on light, f-stop and ISO?
Great video 👍 do you set your camera to auto white balance when shooting a dark scene where there is no light so you can see the subject on the camera screen?
white balance doesn't make a difference. Not sure what other brands call it, but the equivalent to Sony's "settings effect preview" would be whether the display shows What you see is what you get, or a clear view regardless of your settings. Cameras deal with this differently but I have a toggle option as a custom button to flip between the two.
Using an ND filter in daylight is an excellent way to avoid the efficiency drop of HSS, allowing you to use lower power settings (faster recycle and longer battery life), or lower powered flash gear (more portable gear). Using an ND to get to standard sync, and having a flash powerful enough, can get you action-stopping Flash outdoors, however you’ll still have any motion blur from the ambient. This could be very minor, if the natural light on your subject is quite underexposed. However if the ambient light is bright enough in the image, you’ll still see obvious motion blur.
Regarding my description of lower flash output = shorter t.1 flash duration / superior action freezing.
This is true of all IGBT (insulated gate bipolar transistor). This includes all the battery-attached Godox X-series product (speedlights, AD200, AD300, AD360, AD400, AD600, AD1200, as well as the top end AC strobes like QT series and P2400. This is also true of all the battery-on-board devices on the market. However there are still non-IGBT strobes on the market. These are variable voltage strobes, typically more budget focused AC-powered lights, like Godox MS and SK series. Variable voltage strobes do not have the same relationship between power level and shorter t.1 flash durations.
OK, this is the only video i have watched that has explained it simple as you did. But, I just got the Paul C Buff Einsteins 640WS. Im a rodeo photographer and these lights dont have HSS but they do have a action mode. If im outside and its daylight/sunset which i probably don't need the lights but lets say i do how should i setup my lights to freeze the action with flash duration?
Thanks for making this video. I''ve had a strobe in my hands (AD 600 pro) 2 weeks and had worked the concepts you cover in this video out in my mind, but it helps to hear it again. I'll try and make my question here refined so you can provide the best answer. I am an amateur photographer, shot mostly wildlife till recently, but my love is dance. I have access to many high level performers because they are friends of mine, and to improve my skills I envisioned shooting them in a controlled environment. There is of course lots of rotational movement (sometimes spinning, or arm/leg movements). It became quickly apparent (in my mind) that the battle would be between a deep enough DOF (to keep movement that is not parallel to the sensor plane sharp), and short t0.1 time - with enough power to capture and freeze movement within the sync speed (i.e. higher ISOs). My question becomes the following: Something like the 2400p is way out of budget. Would it be more successful to add more lights that could sync as a group (i.e. higher light output at lower power) or a more powerful source (i.e. AD 1200 pro). I realize some of this depends on how you want to light the background and dancer (i.e. edge + key light), but this is more a theoretic question for the future. (i.e. would 3 AD 600 pro lights be better than one 600 pro + a 1200 Pro). Weird question or make some sense? Thanks in advance.
I have AD200, going to explorer this freeze motion using flash… I’m still trying to wrap my head around how or why it works… going to re-watch this bunch of times & practice. Thx for sharing this! Very helpful for a beginner
Rob’s an awesome teacher!
Brilliant video, one of the best advertisements for higher power flashes too. Thanks!
KILLIN IT DAILY! All of your vids this week (as always) get an A+! Appreciate you, you bottomless well of info, you!
Thank you for the constant support Mark!
Great explanation, on how to successfully freeze motion with strobes! 👌🏼
I absolutely love your videos, they are SUPER informative and really well explained :)!!!! thanks for all your hard work...I will do these type of photo as soon as possible :)!
Thank you!
Can't believe I missed this one. Did a dance shoot at sunset the other night and per usual, forgot high speed sync is a thing.
Would love to see your review and some demo of a9III in the eye of flash photography.
Excellent presentation. Thank you.
Some situations camera panning can help to lessen motion on subject, but then blur background instead. Car example is where a pan might be part of solution too ( but not for rotation of course )
Great video, but that article linked to HSS and rotation is not in the description. Can you please add the link.
Silver reflectors will help eliminate specular highlights? What about in modifiers.
Generally speaking, what would you say is a BARE MINIMUM t0.1 value to freeze motion?
In other words, for freezing motion using a strobe/speedlight, you would recommend avoiding flashes with a t0.1 value < x.... What is that "x"?
Is the motion blur for a zoom lens greater than that of a wide angle lens simply because the zoom causes more pixels on the camera's sensor to be affected by the blurry subject which is larger due to the effect of the zoom?
Thanks Rob! Can you share what the rest of your settings were on that bike shot for the 1/8000th shutter speed, such as power on light, f-stop and ISO?
I’ll dig up the fstop and iso but it was 3 years ago so no clue on the output
Great video 👍 do you set your camera to auto white balance when shooting a dark scene where there is no light so you can see the subject on the camera screen?
white balance doesn't make a difference.
Not sure what other brands call it, but the equivalent to Sony's "settings effect preview" would be whether the display shows What you see is what you get, or a clear view regardless of your settings. Cameras deal with this differently but I have a toggle option as a custom button to flip between the two.
Does using ND on your lens (or camera) make any difference over HSS as far freezing action is concerned?
Using an ND filter in daylight is an excellent way to avoid the efficiency drop of HSS, allowing you to use lower power settings (faster recycle and longer battery life), or lower powered flash gear (more portable gear).
Using an ND to get to standard sync, and having a flash powerful enough, can get you action-stopping Flash outdoors, however you’ll still have any motion blur from the ambient. This could be very minor, if the natural light on your subject is quite underexposed. However if the ambient light is bright enough in the image, you’ll still see obvious motion blur.