Hey, I just opened my first ever merch store. You can grab sweet cutting mats, mugs, t-shirts, hoodies, and a patch for your blue jean vest! Check it out: miniac.bigcartel.com/
@@seanmapley7417 I already have one (though a lower end one) but still watch a lot of videos before spraying my first real miniature. Only dabbled a little bit with Cosplay and baord game miniatures.
I thin my paints using airbrush medium (from golden iirc, but I guess other brands would give a similar result) and never had to wait several hours to use a brush on the mini. Other thing I do is I use a sponge instead of a paper towel when I want to create a backflow in the cup. I found the towel would get too wet too fast and I had to get a new towel way too often. And if the sponge is dirty, I can wash it with some water and reuse it. And last thing for anyone starting or willing to start with airbrushing: wear a respirator. You really don't want paint in your lungs. Once it's in there, it's not leaving and the buildup will be a problem down the road.
I have painted full size autos. Agree totally on a Respirator. I use a 3M dual cartridge K95 VOC filter. 3 stage car paint is nasty stuff. Had the check valve stick momentarily. I had to stop and walk out of booth. Body and paint guys have a high rate of cancer in their late 50's. Use Gloves and goggles too. For auto paint, The charcoal cartridges for the mask must be used within 24hrs once opened. Not cheap, they are about $30. I know that the water based acrylics don't require 3M VOC level protection. However if you step up to auto paint, your going to have to watch a bunch of do's and dont's vids. One of those mini paint boxes with a fan to pull away offgassed paint fumes. Just build one out of cardboard with a light and a muffin fan to pull vapors away. A turntable for inside the paint box with a lazy susan to rotate your Miniature while painting Cheers!
Drop your air pressure, it's an airbrush not a full on spraygun.. It's all about scale.. with a airbrush 16psi should be the highest you need for spread and down to 10psi for detailing especially when well thinned.. best way to remember it is: Scale is everything even down to the painting .. happy weathering. ;)
Here are some tips I learned in my 10 years of airbrushing fine art, and after earning two degrees doing such. Bubbles in the cup can be from paint buildup in your needle/air nozzle, but if you have bubbles after a full cleaning, and spraying water thru it you probably have a flared or cracked nozzle. Use the medium for the paint your using plus water for deloutuon of water based paints like acrylics. Solvent based paints are another story. If you have your needle spring set really soft for a light trigger you're doing yourself a disservice. Too little pressure won't allow the needle to return to a fully seated position in your nozzle causing ghost tip dry Learn to paint with a folded paper towel next to you to blow off hard into in between detail runs. It will blow off some tip dry and help with delayed starting or sputtering And don't use gun lube, also if you have air leaks around your nozzle (you can check by blowing air and adding a couple drops of cleaner around where each section threads together you'll see bubbles) seal the threads with a little colorless flavorless chapstick I have a few hundred more. Lol but you'll have to take my intro 3 day airbrush workshop this summer.
Heelp, if you had only $70 dollars, ¿Wich airbrush would you buy?(I'm going to use it for automotive paint and i'm looking for a gravity feed dual action airbrush) I'm from Colombia, ¿Wich website should i use?
When I got back into mini painting about a year ago I decided to get an airbrush. Once I figured it out (still haven't figured everything out) it made priming and doing armor so much easier. I can paint a Khador Warjack in a couple hours where with a brush it would take me a week or two. It really is a great tool to use even if you're just priming models. And this video is pretty much all the things I figured out over the year and some new things I didn't know of. Thanks!
Love your vids dude, always feels like just listening to someone who's had the time to experiment and really put in the work to get down to some of the secrets to stress free painting. Your tone in these videos stays really humble and honestly takes a lot of the frustration out of looking at expertly painted shit without actually learning anything from the painter. You have truly captured the grind necessary to become a dope painter
nate adams thanks so much, my friend. That's exactly what I'm going for!
4 роки тому
You just offered us newbies something all the other videos don't. You are reflecting on your trial and errors. It's invaluable. You got yourself a new subscriber.
At around 9:00 you mention using gun oil, a nice alternative to gun oil is sewing machine oil. it's a very fine mineral machine oil for anyone who wants to look around the hobby shop or the fabric store for their oil needs. Great Vid, makes me feel more confident to to set the brush down and pick up the air brush this weekend, and.... PAINT MORE MINIS!!
I've found those triangle shaped make-up sponges to be an amazing tool for airbrushing. They allow you to do the 'back flow technique' (where you plug the tip of the airbrush to mix the contents of the cup) very well, and you don't risk getting fibers from a paper towel onto your needle, and you don't stab yourself like you tend to do if you just use your fingers. They are also awesome for quickly and easily wiping / pulling off paint that has collected on your needle. Because they are a sponge, you can even pull away paint that would otherwise be a bit inaccessible as you 'squeegee' into the area where the needle enters the airbrush itself. Side note: air brush thinner is a paint drying accelerant! Clogs and dry tip happen more often and quicker if you use too much, especially if you don't have a lubricant also added. Vallejo Flow Improver is a friggin magic potion, paint never enters my cup without it. Great vid as always, Regdab Yob!
Heelp, if you had only $70 dollars, ¿Wich airbrush would you buy?(I'm going to use it for automotive paint and i'm looking for a gravity feed dual action airbrush) I'm from Colombia, ¿Wich website should i use?
I personally had nothing but issues using that Vallejo Thinner. I was unclogging my airbrush more than I was actually painting. I then switched to just using their Flow Improver + a little water and never looked back. I also recently bought an Ultrasonic cleaner for stripping minis but found that I love it even more for cleaning my airbrush at the end of a session.
Exact same experience! Changed my airbrishing life after working it out - thinner dries water based acrylic out which encourages clogging. Now I only use it for paint with polyurethane in it, like the Valejo primers. I was thinking about using a sonic cleaner for the airbrush also...hmmm!
Interesting, I don't have any problems with it at all. I do use a drop or two of flow improver though at the same time. In fact I like the Vallejo thinner so much I use it for all my thinning, seems to to work much better for me than water for my paints.
So the thinner is basically distilled water with very little else in it, I think something to break the surface tension but that's all, when you thin your paints with thinner it doesn't make them dry quicker, it just leaves them drying at the same rate they were. Flow improver actually does several things including extending the drying time of the paint. So you should be using a drip of flow improver with your thinner, particularly with pale coloured paints.
I have been using an airbrush for years, and also have a sotar. All the advice in here is rock solid - especially the one about using quality products. thanks for the vid. one other tip (at least for me,as I am a klutz). After my airbrush is clean, I store the needle separately - outside the airbrush. Helps things dryout better, and less chance I accidentally damage the needle. I just have piece of foam next to my airbrushes, that I stick my needles into (a piece of closed cell foam, left over from a terrain project). Thanks again for the video.
12 tips in 12 minutes. Good job keeping it short and sweet. I've been airbrushing for a year as well and still learned a lot from this video. Good job!
Keep the Airbrush body clean! Paint in weird spots on the body can help diagnose flow and AB problems. This is how I discovered a blown seal on one of my brushes.
I love the part about using an actual Airbrush Thinner. It is SUCH an improvement over the other things people say to use like Windex and whatnot. Great to see you discovered it :D
I use 70% water 30% alcohol to thin Tamiya, Testors, Vallejo, MIG, AK Interactive, and all kinds and brands of craft paint and have never had any problems. There is nothing special about brand name thinners.
Oh wow, within the first 3 mins of the video you answered a doubt I always had. It never occurred to me to lower the psi when painting really close to my model!!! Thank you so much, my shadows and details will look better now!!!
This is the best all round video I have found after monotonous hours watching many other tips out there! So clear and easy to listen to, thank you for spending your time doing this!
G'day Miniac, I've come back to modelling after many years. Back when I started there was only brush painting. So, I've been watching airbrushing videos from people with decades of experience. I've found this to be extremely confusing because they assume you have knowledge about airbrushing '101' that you don't have. I found your quick video had more useful info than all of the 'experts' put together. Thank you, because now I have the basic concepts. It's like learning brush painting when you're a kid, you just keep doing it until you get it right and it feels and looks OK to you. I'm certain I'll mess things up but that's cool because I'll practice on left over bits of old kits that I've already built. I've also found that modern decals are better than I recall from way back but they are much more fragile so, I developed 'decal fear'. Here again, I just got some old decal sheets and stuck decals at random on bits of old plastic, learning how to use microsol etc. Nothing really replaces the learning of doing something over and over again until it all fits together. I'm sure you're much more experienced now so I'll check out some of your more recent videos by subscribing and 'ringing the bell'. Cheers, BH
Two things keep a small sponge in a little dish with windex in it. Take and get in the habit of pushing it on and into the tip before you have problems. When cleaning fill with cleaner cover the tip with finger or a sponge and bubble it spray it out then do the same with water a couple times. Use some bee's wax on your threaded parts to avoid air leaks. These few tips make it easy to avoid problems that cuts down on your painting time. Craft on.
first rule learn to clean the airbrush properly and how to unblock it.because your going to do alot of it when first starting.also learn temperatures affect on paint.colder and hotter temps affect the flow.
I do all my mixing in the airbrush cup. first I put in thinner and a drop or two of flow improver. Then a few drops of paint Then I use a disposable pipette to pull it all up and mix it. Adding paint slowly to the mix until it's the right thickness. The benefit to this is you can test the thickness with a quick spray and add paint as required, plus spare mix is in the pipette so the bowl isn't over filled. Anything left at the end can be kept in the pipette with a bit of tape over the end for next time. Oh and the pipettes are super cheap., a few pence each if that.
Almost 2020 here. This is a great video. I just started airbrushing about 6 months ago. Some of the things you talk about, I had to learn the hard way after hours of frustration. I also picked up a few good tips from this. I wish I had seen this vid 6 months ago. Excellent starter video for airbrushing. Thanks and good job!
Thanks for this. I could have used this a lot more about a year ago. One other thing that I've noticed, cheap paints don't like to be thinned and as such really cause some problems with airbrushes. When I was brushing only, craft paints worked fine. I had to upgrade to higher quality paints to paint with airbrush. I dig your videos man. thank you!
If you experiment you can use almost any kind of paint (even cheap craft paint) and great a really nice finish. I just finished a model where I used two different colors of cheap craft paint, then finished it off with some dollar store clear nail polish. Different paints need different thinning, or add floor wax to get better adhesion and durability. You can even use latex house paint. Pint cans of Rust-Oleum enamel. You can use almost any paint you just need to experiment before putting paint to your project
There are a lot of airbrushing videos with better production values etc, BUT you clarified issues I had with thinning paints better than any of the 20+ videos I saw on that exact topic. THANK YOU! Subscribing and checking your store.
These have been excellent tips. No time wasted! I am considering getting an airbrush later this year and this video helps clear up a bunch of questions I had about the process.
i actually test paints on plastic spoons to see how primers and paints act together, and when i find a color i like i test on anything plastic with abit of surface detail to see how the paint acts with dips and inside corners... like old legos like in the this video
70% water 30% alcohol work as good as and brand name acrylic thinner. That's one of the advantages of a double action airbrush is that you can use the same consistency/thickness of paint and pressure at any distance from several inches to up close, just pull back the trigger enough to get the job done and you wont over apply the paint and can get the fine lines you need. Don't have to keep thinning the paint and adjusting the air pressure for whatever you're shooting.
For pressure I have my compressor set at 23 or so, and they I have the small adjustment knob on my main line (it came with my masters kit) to really finesse it down to the lower pressures.
nice video. especially like the parts where you talk about the relation to air pressure and paint thickness and tips about how to tell if the paint is to thin or thick. i've heard the "it should be the consistency of milk" thing in a bunch of other videos, but this showed how to actually troubleshoot the issue.
Your right. But everybody needs to always experiment to fine tune your airbrushing techniques for different paints before putting paint on your product.
Great video. I've been airbrushing over a decade and did paint and body work for 20 years prior. Great tips for new airbrushers. I learned a few things too.
THE most important thing to me, and i cant stress that enough, was to start with the PSI low, as in like 15 to 18 PSI low. Even with basecoating. I kept seeing "start with 30 to 40 PSI" and the first time i started spraying it was crazy and i almost quit. This is coming form someone who Power washed professionally for many years at 8gpm at 3800 to 4200 PSI. The second time ehrn i finally git the courage, i lowered the PSI and i immediately wasnlike "ooohhhh this is going to be great!' Eventually i worked up to higher PSI, so my advice begginers is to not get so wrapped up in the number of PSI and go with what feels good enough.
I've studied airbrushing formally and the biggest thing I learnt was to leave my air running through my airbrush as often as I can. As I brush I remember A.M.I, I.M.A. air. Movement. Ink, Ink. Movement. Air. I often only paint at 10% paint with each pass, it's always better to start really light and do multiple passes until I get the colour I want.
Hey Miniac, love the vid, I love help vids, especially airbrush ones. I've been a custom painter and Airbrush artist for pretty close to 3o years now (That wasn't as much fun to say as I thought it would be, "What a drag it is getting old")(I can hear my kids laughing at me now) Anyway, I got a couple things I thought might help to go along with your learnings. You and probably most on here have heard about some of them, I assume you're aiming your vid at beginners so I'll write em out and hopefully they help. A lot of the things I have you can find on vids threw out youtube but sometimes it's just nice to be able to read. The point you made about air pressure and thining paint. For sure it's always a safe bet to take every precaution you can. Turning down your air pressure and checking your thickness is important. Sometimes you're just spraying a perfect paint mix and things are hooking up nicely and then you have to go in tight and it's not always practical to stop and do all the adjustments, you lose your spot and momentum, it can be a pain in the butt. Here is a rule of thumb in painting. PSI+Distance+Hand Speed divided by Paint Flow & Mixture Written out it looks like this. With a dual action airbrush you push down for air pressure and pull back for paint flow (As you so elegantly stated in the vid) and your distance determines the width of your line. Depending on how thick or thin your paint is will dictate your hand speed, the thinner your paint is the quicker you want to move your hand. If your paint is thin and wet you want to move quickly if it's thicker and a little dry you slow down a bit so that it sticks. I liked your point about keeping the trigger down and pulling back as you go and this is the most practical way to operate, although, letting up on the trigger will reduce your air pressure and it's always good to be versatile in your technique. This takes some practice, so here is an exercise that's commonly taught for this formula. On a piece of paper, cardboard or whatever works for you (I sometimes use the walls in my shop) practice making different sized dots and lines, from big to small, start with pushing the trigger all the way down and all the way back and move your hand in and out until you achieve a dot/line that is uniform in all aspects. (quick tip; Don't draw out a circle with your brush and fill it in, just point and shoot and let the airbrush make the dot/line and keep reducing them from the biggest your brush can make to the smallest you can make with it) Now practice moving in with your distance and not pushing or pulling the trigger as much as your last dot and with the line try moving faster or slower to see if it's going on to wet or to dry. The tricky part now is finding that balance between down and back as it relates to the thickness and color you actually have. The goal is to train your trigger finger to react to what your eye sees. I'm not saying that this technique should be a mandatory elimination for actually turning your PSI down but when you're into a flow and the thought of stopping to make adjustments just isn't in the cards...a light finger can save a lot of time. The more you practice the dots and lines the more confidence you have in the outcome. Another exercise to do is Whip-Its! (I don't mean going to the grocery store and hitting the cool whip isle :-) ) Spray a line holding the airbrush close to the sub straight and while moving across, start pulling your hand up while letting the trigger go back and up to the off position. So you're making a line that starts thin and progresses to wide in a quick motion. As you progress with this concentrate on making the whole movement a wrist motion. WhipIts come in handy in lots of ways in all kinds of different projects. As far as Paint not sticking due to mixtures, I find it's always helpful to apply applicable adhesion promoters. Fail-safes are a must! with an AP you apply it one time about 3 to 5 minutes before painting and gets to places you can't always reach in the prep phase. When I say applicable I mean, make sure your adhesion promoter is compatible with your medium. Anyway, hope some of this helps. Thanks for the vids man! Keep being you! \00/
Heres a crazy useful tip. If you're using citadel paints get some eye droppers. (that's not the tip). When you're using them, suck up some flow aid and water and spew them out (before you get any paint in them) then put the dropper into the paint pot, suck in and out, and then deposit the paint into your little reservoir. its like lubricating your eye dropper, the paint will just slide in and out of the thing without any problems. And yes this is also useful when you're painting normally.
Great content. During the video there was a lot of reflection on your glasses from a window behind the camera. Short term solution could be closing the window. Long term would be to get lenses with an AR, anti-reflective, coating. It will help when filming and is good if you work in front of a computer a lot and night driving.
well done. I do not do miniatures, but I have seen a LOT of instructionals for airbrushing, and the information on this vid was succinct, and well delivered. I would recommend making more of this type of video, you have a gift for teaching. I may be a glass engraver, but I recently picked up this tool, and it is such a satisfying experience-once you get past the troubleshooting involved. If I had had this video on day one, my journey would have been so much easier. Thanks for spreading your knowledge!
Great Vid!! I'm about as far along with my air brushing time wise as you are, and have recently discovered that I prefer doing the detail work with a brush, BUT for priming and base coating I LOVE my airbrush. I find it therapeutic, and especially in the cold NJ winters, lets me partake of my hobby year round. A couple of things for those out there getting started. Needle size is important! The smaller the needle the more effect thinning and PSI has. I use a 0.35 needle at 20PSI and it is amazing for priming and base coating. My paint mixture is as follows. For paints that aren't "Air", or made for Airbrushing, once I mi the paint up in the bottle by shaking the crap out of it, I use a 6 parts paint, 3 parts Vallejo Air Brush Flow Improver and 1 part water. This gives a super nice viscosity of paint for how I like to use it. I'm super OCD about this and typically do about 4 layers of paint for Priming and sometimes more for Base coating. It gives me a nice smooth, even surface to work on later and doesn't obscure details at all. YMMV. For Cleaning I use three things. The basis for two of those things are Non-Ammonia Windex. My first run through is pure Windex. The next is 50/50 mix of Windex and Water, and the last is plain water. I clean my Airbrush out quickly after each time I use it, and typically after three sessions, I break it down completely for a thorough cleaning. When I do my thorough cleaning, after the needle is clean, I put a fine layer of Hoppe's 9 Gun Oil on it. This does wonders, not only for smooth operation, but also prevents paint from collecting to a certain degree. Hope this helps everyone out there!!
Heelp, if you had only $70 dollars, ¿Wich airbrush would you buy?(I'm going to use it for automotive paint and i'm looking for a gravity feed dual action airbrush) I'm from Colombia, ¿Wich website should i use?
7:35 - start the air before you point the air brush at the model and when you're done adding paint, push dual action trigger forward stopping paint but continue air Then release the air. you'll never spray start globs again
I would suggest, pulling your airbrush apart so you know how to clean it propperly. If you are having issues with paint splatter, and you are using your usual thinned paint and air pressure, give the internals a good clean. Also there are plenty of arcylic paint airbrush thinner and cleaner recipies with ratios out there that work perfectly well. I would advise against using airbrush cleaner as a thinner. Some are very agressive and can react with model plastic.
i used the airbrush thinner when i fill my citadel colours into dropper bottles to get most of the colour our of the pots. It's also great for painting with a normal brush. my paints are allways nice thinned down. I only need to add a small drop of water or a bit glaze medium and im ready to go. Yesterday i bought my airbrush set am im looking forward to test all the stuff :) but in the end i bought it mostly for zenital and good undercoating ^^
Did you ever talk about space setup for air brush? Painting inside, overspray... Is it possible to airbrush in a bedroom or somewhere you have things that you dont want paint settling on? (Some of us dont have a choice if we want to airbrush.)
The minimum you want to start for acrylic paint airbrushing inside is a spray booth like a cardboard box, n95 mask, and a fan near your window that pulls air to the outside. As a newbie that is all you need to start with small projects around 1-6 miniatures. If you seriously airbrushing you are going to want a spray booth that has its own vent and fan that leads out of your window and better respirator with a n100 filter. You should also vacuum and dust the room you airbrush in as acrylic paint basically turns into dust when it dries.
One thing i would suggest in addition with cleaning, shoot Windex through it when you're finished. i've been doing it for a few months now, after a professional car painter told me he did that at work. it's been BEAUTIFUL, and cleans everything.
Max Zwarenstein the issue with ammonia lung is usually fibrosis. Some competitive lifters that abuse ammonium chloride (smelling salts) end up suffering from it. That being said, you really shouldn't be airbrushing without a mask, vented booth or no. Atomized paint is gonna hurt you loooooooong before ammonia fumes will.
Hey bud, I'm sure someone else has commented something similar but go check out Ultrasonic cleaners! You can purchase one for fairly cheap, and they work wonders for cleaning off built up dried paint.. I've taken old jars of dried paint and put em in for a half hour... come out sparkling clean. Works well for airbrushes too! Just don't soak the O rings :)
The problem with ultrasonic cleaners with Patriot brushes is that the orings are inaccessible, so over time you'll damage them. That and I've used a cleaner and for some reason it didn't clean my airbrushes very well.
Yea gotta say you really are extremely helpful and also easy to listen to, great videos man heaps well made and so much advice I’m watching your stuff constantly for inspiration.
Total nub here, but been using Vallejo flow improver and a little water for thinning and it’s been amazing for the dry climate I’m in. When I used thinner I got a lot of paint drying on the tip.
Just a heads up to those who may not know - you do not want to use non-dedicated air brush cleaner i.e. isopropyl alcohol for an airbrush that is not “solvent safe”. This will deteriorate the seals over time. If your airbrush is solvent safe, it will be denoted as such. Thank you for creating this. The tip about thinner lines requires lowering pressure and (more) thinner 👍
I think your workbench is probably the most messy, cluttered and disorganised I have ever seen.............cool. Thanks for the tip about liquid mask/latex application, and removal, have tried it and was obviously putting it on too thinly, so now I know I can try it again. One little bit of advice for everyone, when back flushing your airbrush don’t use your bare finger, use kitchen towel or something like it, just to avoid the small but still possible risk of injecting compressed air into the bloodstream, resulting in an embolism. Thanks for sharing this interesting and informative video with us all, some excellent tips. 👍
Is the airbrush supposed to start and stop painting?... for example my compressor seems to loose pressure, then i have to back the airbrush off and wait til it pressures up again. Its only a feq seconds, i just wanted to know if it was normal
That Neil Young song, 'The Needle and the Damage Done'... That was about airbrushing, the whole time? It can certainly be a frustrating learning curve! Thanks for the vid.
Been brush painting for a few years, and really want to take the leap and start airbrushing. I'm worried about not knowing what I'm doing, and investing cash in something that I end up hating/not wanting to use.
Hey, I just opened my first ever merch store. You can grab sweet cutting mats, mugs, t-shirts, hoodies, and a patch for your blue jean vest! Check it out: miniac.bigcartel.com/
Miniac STOP DRINKING THE PAINT! 😂
Just wondering on HUMID conditions what effects will that have :)
+1
I am an "old" guy who decided to learn how to airbrush. I appreciate the way you clearly explain what to do and how to do it. Great job!
I’m in my 80’s and this kid was helpful. Go for it man.
Who else watching this while waiting for their first airbrush to arive
I mean... 100% That guy... right now. today. ME. Waiting on tomrrow morning
yeah buddy just ordered an iwata eclipse and some Vallejo paints cant wait to try it!
@@seanmapley7417 I already have one (though a lower end one) but still watch a lot of videos before spraying my first real miniature. Only dabbled a little bit with Cosplay and baord game miniatures.
I would actually recommend the Master G233. It’s a great kit, and fairly cheap too!
Me. Mine comes tomorrow hopefully! :)
I thin my paints using airbrush medium (from golden iirc, but I guess other brands would give a similar result) and never had to wait several hours to use a brush on the mini.
Other thing I do is I use a sponge instead of a paper towel when I want to create a backflow in the cup. I found the towel would get too wet too fast and I had to get a new towel way too often. And if the sponge is dirty, I can wash it with some water and reuse it.
And last thing for anyone starting or willing to start with airbrushing: wear a respirator. You really don't want paint in your lungs. Once it's in there, it's not leaving and the buildup will be a problem down the road.
I have painted full size autos. Agree totally on a Respirator. I use a 3M dual cartridge K95 VOC filter. 3 stage car paint is nasty stuff. Had the check valve stick momentarily. I had to stop and walk out of booth.
Body and paint guys have a high rate of cancer in their late 50's. Use
Gloves and goggles too. For auto paint,
The charcoal cartridges for the mask must be used within 24hrs once opened.
Not cheap, they are about $30.
I know that the water based acrylics don't require 3M VOC level protection. However if you step up to auto paint, your going to have to watch a bunch of do's and dont's vids.
One of those mini paint boxes with a fan to pull away offgassed paint fumes.
Just build one out of cardboard with a light and a muffin fan to pull vapors away.
A turntable for inside the paint box with a lazy susan to rotate your
Miniature while painting
Cheers!
Drop your air pressure, it's an airbrush not a full on spraygun..
It's all about scale.. with a airbrush 16psi should be the highest you need for spread and down to 10psi for detailing especially when well thinned.. best way to remember it is:
Scale is everything even down to the painting .. happy weathering. ;)
Here are some tips I learned in my 10 years of airbrushing fine art, and after earning two degrees doing such.
Bubbles in the cup can be from paint buildup in your needle/air nozzle, but if you have bubbles after a full cleaning, and spraying water thru it you probably have a flared or cracked nozzle.
Use the medium for the paint your using plus water for deloutuon of water based paints like acrylics. Solvent based paints are another story.
If you have your needle spring set really soft for a light trigger you're doing yourself a disservice. Too little pressure won't allow the needle to return to a fully seated position in your nozzle causing ghost tip dry
Learn to paint with a folded paper towel next to you to blow off hard into in between detail runs. It will blow off some tip dry and help with delayed starting or sputtering
And don't use gun lube, also if you have air leaks around your nozzle (you can check by blowing air and adding a couple drops of cleaner around where each section threads together you'll see bubbles) seal the threads with a little colorless flavorless chapstick
I have a few hundred more. Lol but you'll have to take my intro 3 day airbrush workshop this summer.
You don't want acrylic paint in your lungs. Use a fan with a filter at minimum
Heelp, if you had only $70 dollars, ¿Wich airbrush would you buy?(I'm going to use it for automotive paint and i'm looking for a gravity feed dual action airbrush) I'm from Colombia, ¿Wich website should i use?
@@ep.sdp. badger patriot
Dat chapstick tip tho
When I got back into mini painting about a year ago I decided to get an airbrush. Once I figured it out (still haven't figured everything out) it made priming and doing armor so much easier. I can paint a Khador Warjack in a couple hours where with a brush it would take me a week or two.
It really is a great tool to use even if you're just priming models.
And this video is pretty much all the things I figured out over the year and some new things I didn't know of. Thanks!
Love your vids dude, always feels like just listening to someone who's had the time to experiment and really put in the work to get down to some of the secrets to stress free painting. Your tone in these videos stays really humble and honestly takes a lot of the frustration out of looking at expertly painted shit without actually learning anything from the painter. You have truly captured the grind necessary to become a dope painter
nate adams thanks so much, my friend. That's exactly what I'm going for!
You just offered us newbies something all the other videos don't. You are reflecting on your trial and errors. It's invaluable. You got yourself a new subscriber.
At around 9:00 you mention using gun oil, a nice alternative to gun oil is sewing machine oil. it's a very fine mineral machine oil for anyone who wants to look around the hobby shop or the fabric store for their oil needs. Great Vid, makes me feel more confident to to set the brush down and pick up the air brush this weekend, and.... PAINT MORE MINIS!!
3-in-1 oil is very good, too. It's basically the same stuff as sewing machine oil.
@@ericmorrell806 I'll have to check it out.
I've found those triangle shaped make-up sponges to be an amazing tool for airbrushing.
They allow you to do the 'back flow technique' (where you plug the tip of the airbrush to mix the contents of the cup) very well, and you don't risk getting fibers from a paper towel onto your needle, and you don't stab yourself like you tend to do if you just use your fingers.
They are also awesome for quickly and easily wiping / pulling off paint that has collected on your needle. Because they are a sponge, you can even pull away paint that would otherwise be a bit inaccessible as you 'squeegee' into the area where the needle enters the airbrush itself.
Side note: air brush thinner is a paint drying accelerant! Clogs and dry tip happen more often and quicker if you use too much, especially if you don't have a lubricant also added. Vallejo Flow Improver is a friggin magic potion, paint never enters my cup without it.
Great vid as always, Regdab Yob!
Heelp, if you had only $70 dollars, ¿Wich airbrush would you buy?(I'm going to use it for automotive paint and i'm looking for a gravity feed dual action airbrush) I'm from Colombia, ¿Wich website should i use?
Goodie peepy says thanks for the tip and just the tip 🥰🤣🫢👀
I personally had nothing but issues using that Vallejo Thinner. I was unclogging my airbrush more than I was actually painting. I then switched to just using their Flow Improver + a little water and never looked back. I also recently bought an Ultrasonic cleaner for stripping minis but found that I love it even more for cleaning my airbrush at the end of a session.
Exact same experience! Changed my airbrishing life after working it out - thinner dries water based acrylic out which encourages clogging. Now I only use it for paint with polyurethane in it, like the Valejo primers. I was thinking about using a sonic cleaner for the airbrush also...hmmm!
Interesting, I don't have any problems with it at all. I do use a drop or two of flow improver though at the same time. In fact I like the Vallejo thinner so much I use it for all my thinning, seems to to work much better for me than water for my paints.
How mysterious! What sort of airbrush are you using?
So the thinner is basically distilled water with very little else in it, I think something to break the surface tension but that's all, when you thin your paints with thinner it doesn't make them dry quicker, it just leaves them drying at the same rate they were. Flow improver actually does several things including extending the drying time of the paint. So you should be using a drip of flow improver with your thinner, particularly with pale coloured paints.
I have a mix of water, dishwashing liquid and vallejo thinner. Works like a charm
I have been using an airbrush for years, and also have a sotar. All the advice in here is rock solid - especially the one about using quality products. thanks for the vid. one other tip (at least for me,as I am a klutz).
After my airbrush is clean, I store the needle separately - outside the airbrush. Helps things dryout better, and less chance I accidentally damage the needle. I just have piece of foam next to my airbrushes, that I stick my needles into (a piece of closed cell foam, left over from a terrain project).
Thanks again for the video.
Just bought a model air brush set not used yet . Been all over U tube to get info this short film is the most informative I have come across Thank You
That tip about the needle not being pushed in fully solved so much of my bubbling problems, thank you!
Thanks mate, I've been airbrushing for about a year too and a few of these tips have really helped me with some troubleshooting issues I've had.
Ditto. Really helped me up my airbrushing game. :)
12 tips in 12 minutes. Good job keeping it short and sweet. I've been airbrushing for a year as well and still learned a lot from this video. Good job!
Keep the Airbrush body clean! Paint in weird spots on the body can help diagnose flow and AB problems. This is how I discovered a blown seal on one of my brushes.
I love the part about using an actual Airbrush Thinner. It is SUCH an improvement over the other things people say to use like Windex and whatnot. Great to see you discovered it :D
I use 70% water 30% alcohol to thin Tamiya, Testors, Vallejo, MIG, AK Interactive, and all kinds and brands of craft paint and have never had any problems. There is nothing special about brand name thinners.
Nice video Miniac. Bubbles also occur if your nozzle is damaged or cracked or the rubber o-ring on it is leaking air.
just got my first airbrush, and this video was really helpful. Thank you!
Oh wow, within the first 3 mins of the video you answered a doubt I always had. It never occurred to me to lower the psi when painting really close to my model!!! Thank you so much, my shadows and details will look better now!!!
This is the best all round video I have found after monotonous hours watching many other tips out there! So clear and easy to listen to, thank you for spending your time doing this!
Just got started airbrushing, and I appreciate the tips. I've a long way to go, but I've taken the first steps on my journey.
G'day Miniac, I've come back to modelling after many years. Back when I started there was only brush painting. So, I've been watching airbrushing videos from people with decades of experience. I've found this to be extremely confusing because they assume you have knowledge about airbrushing '101' that you don't have. I found your quick video had more useful info than all of the 'experts' put together. Thank you, because now I have the basic concepts. It's like learning brush painting when you're a kid, you just keep doing it until you get it right and it feels and looks OK to you. I'm certain I'll mess things up but that's cool because I'll practice on left over bits of old kits that I've already built.
I've also found that modern decals are better than I recall from way back but they are much more fragile so, I developed 'decal fear'. Here again, I just got some old decal sheets and stuck decals at random on bits of old plastic, learning how to use microsol etc. Nothing really replaces the learning of doing something over and over again until it all fits together.
I'm sure you're much more experienced now so I'll check out some of your more recent videos by subscribing and 'ringing the bell'. Cheers, BH
Two things keep a small sponge in a little dish with windex in it. Take and get in the habit of pushing it on and into the tip before you have problems. When cleaning fill with cleaner cover the tip with finger or a sponge and bubble it spray it out then do the same with water a couple times. Use some bee's wax on your threaded parts to avoid air leaks. These few tips make it easy to avoid problems that cuts down on your painting time. Craft on.
first rule learn to clean the airbrush properly and how to unblock it.because your going to do alot of it when first starting.also learn temperatures affect on paint.colder and hotter temps affect the flow.
You are easily my favorite minipainter! Thats it. Ill go back to painting now
This. This is life.
Never hit the subscribe button so fast! I use an airbrush for cosplay and am always looking for tips on how to get better. Thanks for making this!
OHHH MY GOD ZONBI'S WATCHIN' WE'VE BEEN BLESSED
Cosplay?
I do all my mixing in the airbrush cup. first I put in thinner and a drop or two of flow improver. Then a few drops of paint
Then I use a disposable pipette to pull it all up and mix it. Adding paint slowly to the mix until it's the right thickness.
The benefit to this is you can test the thickness with a quick spray and add paint as required, plus spare mix is in the pipette so the bowl isn't over filled.
Anything left at the end can be kept in the pipette with a bit of tape over the end for next time.
Oh and the pipettes are super cheap., a few pence each if that.
Smart technique. That's how I do it.
Almost 2020 here. This is a great video. I just started airbrushing about 6 months ago. Some of the things you talk about, I had to learn the hard way after hours of frustration. I also picked up a few good tips from this.
I wish I had seen this vid 6 months ago.
Excellent starter video for airbrushing. Thanks and good job!
I love your logo. It’s so metal.
Thanks for this. I could have used this a lot more about a year ago. One other thing that I've noticed, cheap paints don't like to be thinned and as such really cause some problems with airbrushes. When I was brushing only, craft paints worked fine. I had to upgrade to higher quality paints to paint with airbrush.
I dig your videos man. thank you!
If you experiment you can use almost any kind of paint (even cheap craft paint) and great a really nice finish. I just finished a model where I used two different colors of cheap craft paint, then finished it off with some dollar store clear nail polish. Different paints need different thinning, or add floor wax to get better adhesion and durability. You can even use latex house paint. Pint cans of Rust-Oleum enamel. You can use almost any paint you just need to experiment before putting paint to your project
Been airbrushing for many years but still thanking you for added tips and techniques....very useful instructional video...👍👍👍
Thanks for the share! Just starting my airbrush journey
I just got a Paasche talon first airbrush for me alot to learn for sure thanks for sharing your time
Very well explained. Thank you for sharing.
There are a lot of airbrushing videos with better production values etc, BUT you clarified issues I had with thinning paints better than any of the 20+ videos I saw on that exact topic. THANK YOU! Subscribing and checking your store.
Great video, Miniac! And it's another argument for using water-based paints, because everything related to cleanup is so much easier.
This. THIS. is what I needed. Your my hero !
These have been excellent tips. No time wasted! I am considering getting an airbrush later this year and this video helps clear up a bunch of questions I had about the process.
Outstanding video! My knowledge of airbrushing just increased 12 fold!
A Morbius poster? You are a man ahead of your time. I bet you've watched that movie at least once a day since it came out
Just got my first airbrush. Great tips, thank you!
a good tip prime your old sprues and practice on those to check your paints are flowing properly instead of messing up your new mini's
i actually test paints on plastic spoons to see how primers and paints act together, and when i find a color i like i test on anything plastic with abit of surface detail to see how the paint acts with dips and inside corners... like old legos like in the this video
Two very good tipps right next to each other!
Thanks guys.
70% water 30% alcohol work as good as and brand name acrylic thinner. That's one of the advantages of a double action airbrush is that you can use the same consistency/thickness of paint and pressure at any distance from several inches to up close, just pull back the trigger enough to get the job done and you wont over apply the paint and can get the fine lines you need. Don't have to keep thinning the paint and adjusting the air pressure for whatever you're shooting.
Thanks for you effort here. It was useful.
For pressure I have my compressor set at 23 or so, and they I have the small adjustment knob on my main line (it came with my masters kit) to really finesse it down to the lower pressures.
Flow Improver personally made a huge difference for me.
This video is 3 years old and it’s useful for me today 🤟 thanks man
Good tips and nicely presented. Thanks.
Thank to your videos I have not only gotten back into painting models and minis and my Iwata Eclipse is on its way!
nice video. especially like the parts where you talk about the relation to air pressure and paint thickness and tips about how to tell if the paint is to thin or thick. i've heard the "it should be the consistency of milk" thing in a bunch of other videos, but this showed how to actually troubleshoot the issue.
Your right. But everybody needs to always experiment to fine tune your airbrushing techniques for different paints before putting paint on your product.
Great video. I've been airbrushing over a decade and did paint and body work for 20 years prior. Great tips for new airbrushers. I learned a few things too.
THE most important thing to me, and i cant stress that enough, was to start with the PSI low, as in like 15 to 18 PSI low. Even with basecoating. I kept seeing "start with 30 to 40 PSI" and the first time i started spraying it was crazy and i almost quit. This is coming form someone who Power washed professionally for many years at 8gpm at 3800 to 4200 PSI. The second time ehrn i finally git the courage, i lowered the PSI and i immediately wasnlike "ooohhhh this is going to be great!' Eventually i worked up to higher PSI, so my advice begginers is to not get so wrapped up in the number of PSI and go with what feels good enough.
Can we get a video about air compressor maintenance and taking care of it.
I’ve just started air brushing and this video was very informative thanks
Awesome video. Nice pace and easy to understand. Thanks
I've studied airbrushing formally and the biggest thing I learnt was to leave my air running through my airbrush as often as I can. As I brush I remember A.M.I, I.M.A. air. Movement. Ink, Ink. Movement. Air. I often only paint at 10% paint with each pass, it's always better to start really light and do multiple passes until I get the colour I want.
Silly putty is great for masking. Me and a friend used to use Windex to dilute paint for our airbrushes, worked pretty well.
Hey Miniac, love the vid, I love help vids, especially airbrush ones. I've been a custom painter and Airbrush artist for pretty close to 3o years now (That wasn't as much fun to say as I thought it would be, "What a drag it is getting old")(I can hear my kids laughing at me now) Anyway, I got a couple things I thought might help to go along with your learnings. You and probably most on here have heard about some of them, I assume you're aiming your vid at beginners so I'll write em out and hopefully they help. A lot of the things I have you can find on vids threw out youtube but sometimes it's just nice to be able to read.
The point you made about air pressure and thining paint. For sure it's always a safe bet to take every precaution you can. Turning down your air pressure and checking your thickness is important. Sometimes you're just spraying a perfect paint mix and things are hooking up nicely and then you have to go in tight and it's not always practical to stop and do all the adjustments, you lose your spot and momentum, it can be a pain in the butt. Here is a rule of thumb in painting.
PSI+Distance+Hand Speed divided by Paint Flow & Mixture
Written out it looks like this. With a dual action airbrush you push down for air pressure and pull back for paint flow (As you so elegantly stated in the vid) and your distance determines the width of your line. Depending on how thick or thin your paint is will dictate your hand speed, the thinner your paint is the quicker you want to move your hand. If your paint is thin and wet you want to move quickly if it's thicker and a little dry you slow down a bit so that it sticks. I liked your point about keeping the trigger down and pulling back as you go and this is the most practical way to operate, although, letting up on the trigger will reduce your air pressure and it's always good to be versatile in your technique.
This takes some practice, so here is an exercise that's commonly taught for this formula. On a piece of paper, cardboard or whatever works for you (I sometimes use the walls in my shop) practice making different sized dots and lines, from big to small, start with pushing the trigger all the way down and all the way back and move your hand in and out until you achieve a dot/line that is uniform in all aspects.
(quick tip; Don't draw out a circle with your brush and fill it in, just point and shoot and let the airbrush make the dot/line and keep reducing them from the biggest your brush can make to the smallest you can make with it)
Now practice moving in with your distance and not pushing or pulling the trigger as much as your last dot and with the line try moving faster or slower to see if it's going on to wet or to dry. The tricky part now is finding that balance between down and back as it relates to the thickness and color you actually have. The goal is to train your trigger finger to react to what your eye sees. I'm not saying that this technique should be a mandatory elimination for actually turning your PSI down but when you're into a flow and the thought of stopping to make adjustments just isn't in the cards...a light finger can save a lot of time. The more you practice the dots and lines the more confidence you have in the outcome. Another exercise to do is Whip-Its! (I don't mean going to the grocery store and hitting the cool whip isle :-) ) Spray a line holding the airbrush close to the sub straight and while moving across, start pulling your hand up while letting the trigger go back and up to the off position. So you're making a line that starts thin and progresses to wide in a quick motion. As you progress with this concentrate on making the whole movement a wrist motion. WhipIts come in handy in lots of ways in all kinds of different projects.
As far as Paint not sticking due to mixtures, I find it's always helpful to apply applicable adhesion promoters. Fail-safes are a must! with an AP you apply it one time about 3 to 5 minutes before painting and gets to places you can't always reach in the prep phase. When I say applicable I mean, make sure your adhesion promoter is compatible with your medium.
Anyway, hope some of this helps. Thanks for the vids man! Keep being you! \00/
Heres a crazy useful tip.
If you're using citadel paints get some eye droppers. (that's not the tip).
When you're using them, suck up some flow aid and water and spew them out (before you get any paint in them)
then put the dropper into the paint pot, suck in and out, and then deposit the paint into your little reservoir.
its like lubricating your eye dropper, the paint will just slide in and out of the thing without any problems.
And yes this is also useful when you're painting normally.
Great content.
During the video there was a lot of reflection on your glasses from a window behind the camera. Short term solution could be closing the window. Long term would be to get lenses with an AR, anti-reflective, coating. It will help when filming and is good if you work in front of a computer a lot and night driving.
Good advice! That could probably also work for the glass on my posters that are reflecting my light fixtures.
well done. I do not do miniatures, but I have seen a LOT of instructionals for airbrushing, and the information on this vid was succinct, and well delivered. I would recommend making more of this type of video, you have a gift for teaching. I may be a glass engraver, but I recently picked up this tool, and it is such a satisfying experience-once you get past the troubleshooting involved. If I had had this video on day one, my journey would have been so much easier. Thanks for spreading your knowledge!
Great Vid!! I'm about as far along with my air brushing time wise as you are, and have recently discovered that I prefer doing the detail work with a brush, BUT for priming and base coating I LOVE my airbrush. I find it therapeutic, and especially in the cold NJ winters, lets me partake of my hobby year round.
A couple of things for those out there getting started. Needle size is important! The smaller the needle the more effect thinning and PSI has. I use a 0.35 needle at 20PSI and it is amazing for priming and base coating. My paint mixture is as follows. For paints that aren't "Air", or made for Airbrushing, once I mi the paint up in the bottle by shaking the crap out of it, I use a 6 parts paint, 3 parts Vallejo Air Brush Flow Improver and 1 part water. This gives a super nice viscosity of paint for how I like to use it. I'm super OCD about this and typically do about 4 layers of paint for Priming and sometimes more for Base coating. It gives me a nice smooth, even surface to work on later and doesn't obscure details at all. YMMV.
For Cleaning I use three things. The basis for two of those things are Non-Ammonia Windex. My first run through is pure Windex. The next is 50/50 mix of Windex and Water, and the last is plain water. I clean my Airbrush out quickly after each time I use it, and typically after three sessions, I break it down completely for a thorough cleaning. When I do my thorough cleaning, after the needle is clean, I put a fine layer of Hoppe's 9 Gun Oil on it. This does wonders, not only for smooth operation, but also prevents paint from collecting to a certain degree.
Hope this helps everyone out there!!
Good comments. And, yes, you are super OCD ;)
Heelp, if you had only $70 dollars, ¿Wich airbrush would you buy?(I'm going to use it for automotive paint and i'm looking for a gravity feed dual action airbrush) I'm from Colombia, ¿Wich website should i use?
7:35 - start the air before you point the air brush at the model and when you're done adding paint, push dual action trigger forward stopping paint but continue air Then release the air. you'll never spray start globs again
I would suggest, pulling your airbrush apart so you know how to clean it propperly. If you are having issues with paint splatter, and you are using your usual thinned paint and air pressure, give the internals a good clean. Also there are plenty of arcylic paint airbrush thinner and cleaner recipies with ratios out there that work perfectly well. I would advise against using airbrush cleaner as a thinner. Some are very agressive and can react with model plastic.
This man was Morbing before any of us.
I thought the 12th tip was going to be to PAINT MORE MINIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIS! great video, this helps newbies like me more than you know
Literally just got done dealing with multiple issues addressed in this video. Great stuff, keep it coming!
Super helpful! Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the video. What's the mask for? So you don't spray in areas?
Best cleaner I have used is vallejos. It goes a long way and keeps your brush working smoothly better then any home recipe I have tried.
i used the airbrush thinner when i fill my citadel colours into dropper bottles to get most of the colour our of the pots.
It's also great for painting with a normal brush. my paints are allways nice thinned down. I only need to add a small drop of water or a bit glaze medium and im ready to go.
Yesterday i bought my airbrush set am im looking forward to test all the stuff :) but in the end i bought it mostly for zenital and good undercoating ^^
Did you ever talk about space setup for air brush? Painting inside, overspray... Is it possible to airbrush in a bedroom or somewhere you have things that you dont want paint settling on? (Some of us dont have a choice if we want to airbrush.)
The minimum you want to start for acrylic paint airbrushing inside is a spray booth like a cardboard box, n95 mask, and a fan near your window that pulls air to the outside. As a newbie that is all you need to start with small projects around 1-6 miniatures. If you seriously airbrushing you are going to want a spray booth that has its own vent and fan that leads out of your window and better respirator with a n100 filter. You should also vacuum and dust the room you airbrush in as acrylic paint basically turns into dust when it dries.
One thing i would suggest in addition with cleaning, shoot Windex through it when you're finished. i've been doing it for a few months now, after a professional car painter told me he did that at work.
it's been BEAUTIFUL, and cleans everything.
J Tick that stuff is not good to breath in. Ammonia is a pretty strong carcinogen
Ah yea....that's why you own a mask...
Max Zwarenstein the issue with ammonia lung is usually fibrosis. Some competitive lifters that abuse ammonium chloride (smelling salts) end up suffering from it. That being said, you really shouldn't be airbrushing without a mask, vented booth or no. Atomized paint is gonna hurt you loooooooong before ammonia fumes will.
Does that mold builder work well as a liquid mask? are there any other liquid masks you'd recommend?
Hey bud, I'm sure someone else has commented something similar but go check out Ultrasonic cleaners! You can purchase one for fairly cheap, and they work wonders for cleaning off built up dried paint.. I've taken old jars of dried paint and put em in for a half hour... come out sparkling clean. Works well for airbrushes too! Just don't soak the O rings :)
The problem with ultrasonic cleaners with Patriot brushes is that the orings are inaccessible, so over time you'll damage them. That and I've used a cleaner and for some reason it didn't clean my airbrushes very well.
Really a terrific video, I have been airbrushing for about 3 years and learnt a lot. Thank you.
Got my first airbrush and the three big things I have learned is: get a compressor and get a double action airbrush and thin your paints with Windex
Thanks so much. Good vidio and I appreciate your humility in saying you DONT know everything. Just refreshing.
Yea gotta say you really are extremely helpful and also easy to listen to, great videos man heaps well made and so much advice I’m watching your stuff constantly for inspiration.
Total nub here, but been using Vallejo flow improver and a little water for thinning and it’s been amazing for the dry climate I’m in. When I used thinner I got a lot of paint drying on the tip.
Same here - Flow Improver + Distilled water works super well for me.
Jason Larsen Flow improver is the best!
Same here!
Jason Larsen use high temp or slow reducer
Just a heads up to those who may not know - you do not want to use non-dedicated air brush cleaner i.e. isopropyl alcohol for an airbrush that is not “solvent safe”. This will deteriorate the seals over time. If your airbrush is solvent safe, it will be denoted as such. Thank you for creating this. The tip about thinner lines requires lowering pressure and (more) thinner 👍
Always been interested in trying out the airbrush. thanks for the video!
Worth noting if you’re concerned about delicate paint layers you can lock it down with a satin clear coat. Build it up that way.
Hey :) When you say 9-to-1 Water and Isopropanol, which is what? 9 parts water?
Finally ! Someone that explains alot to me
Some great tips here! Well worth the time watching.
I think your workbench is probably the most messy, cluttered and disorganised I have ever seen.............cool. Thanks for the tip about liquid mask/latex application, and removal, have tried it and was obviously putting it on too thinly, so now I know I can try it again.
One little bit of advice for everyone, when back flushing your airbrush don’t use your bare finger, use kitchen towel or something like it, just to avoid the small but still possible risk of injecting compressed air into the bloodstream, resulting in an embolism.
Thanks for sharing this interesting and informative video with us all, some excellent tips. 👍
Spot on mate. Well paced and helpful. Thanks
Very well done. Thank you.
Is the airbrush supposed to start and stop painting?... for example my compressor seems to loose pressure, then i have to back the airbrush off and wait til it pressures up again. Its only a feq seconds, i just wanted to know if it was normal
I would be very interesting i seeing your airbrush setup deskwise and how you do everything.
Having recently started airbrushing this video was invaluable. Cheers dude!
That Neil Young song, 'The Needle and the Damage Done'... That was about airbrushing, the whole time? It can certainly be a frustrating learning curve! Thanks for the vid.
really great video, would like more of this trouble shooting problems thanks
very helpful ...thank you
Been brush painting for a few years, and really want to take the leap and start airbrushing. I'm worried about not knowing what I'm doing, and investing cash in something that I end up hating/not wanting to use.
Tip number 1: Drink your own thinner
Joking, another great vid dude !
It’s a terrible way to go but a great finish.