Seven minutes to watch a video and three hours in the yard rescuing the two dozen trees we planted five years ago. I guess I've gotta have a talk with the landscapers we've hired. Thank you for the helpful information and how-to!
Mr. Volgas is a plethora of knowledge and I'm so glad you did this video because, I'm a first time DIY-er for my backyard tree root flare exposing. THANK YOU!
*Two most famous lines in history. I pulled mulch away from the trunk. And, I was only following orders.* Most important first steps in properly mulching. Is one, to sweep root flare clean of any mulch or accumulating organic Matter. And number two, first rake out most of old mulch covering trees root plate before applying new layer. Because otherwise inevitably, existing mulch turns into new soil. Which would then result in break the number one rule of arboriculture, never raise soil grade over trees existing root system! Today because ALL trees arrive from nurseries with trunks already too deep in their rootball. If buried root flares are not uncovered before dug out of field, then anyone planting trees must first perform a root flare excavation. By removing several inches of extra nursery medium from top surface of root ball that had accumulated over trees original birth grade..
Remember everything a new tree faces during its first 15 years, will later determine potential lifespan of said tree. We take it for granted that workers planting trees for decades must know what they're doing compared to the rest of us. Except they have learned to take shortcuts, which could result in potential problems long after they are gone. Once professionals realize a customer knows something about trees more than the average person. They will make sure to do everything correctly according to today's most up-to-date accepted standards. If anyting, I hope you find some of the following technical information at least interesting. Especially if you are into science! Since almost one hundred percent of new trees arrive already too deep in rootball from nurseries today. Suggest to nursery you purchase tree from that, it first be dug out of the field at the root flare level. By removing any accumulated soil that maybe burying the trunk. This way The root ball will also end up with many more roots excavated out of the field. Wire cages are no longer left on root ball in the ground. But they can be temporary left on, then cut apart once root ball is in the ground. Burlap can remain attached. But never two layers of burlap, and where any folds of burlap exist. Is similar to two layers of burlap, which roots can't go through and takes longer to decompose. One must at least temporarily pullback burlap from around trunk, to make sure root flare is not buried. And tree is being installed at its original birth grade. Installing root ball one or two above grade, is only required if water table is high in your area. Caution whoever is planting tree, that absolutely no loose soil should be deposited directly on top of root ball surface. Have soil laying at bottom of dugout hole firmed down to prevent tree from later settling. Since very few Roots will grow any deeper from bottom surface of root ball. Only horizontally out from root ball. Also suggest that whole be excavated wider. Which will prevent any voids of soil ending up around root ball when Clods of soil gets dumped back in. watering the soil every once in awhile as it goes back in will get rid of air pockets. This softer area of soil surrounding root ball, will give radially outbound growing Roots a running chance when they hit the harder wall of existing soil. Also make sure to roughing up and with a shovel score that outer wall of excavated hole. Otherwise Roots will be deflected off of smooth wall surface. Lastly water a tree only once or twice a week, unlike new sod which needs a lot more water. Since tree roots need some dry time to breathe and expand. Finally look up method of structural pruning during young trees formative years. This specialized required pruning will produce one main apical dominant trunk, and prevent codominant stems. Which are really two or more separate trees off of one main trunk. Kekalek, planting a new tree can be a very exciting memorable event had by your family. And while many today in the tree industry like promoting new methods and better ideas. please note the following technical specifications I am sharing with you, come from traditional well-proven methods. Literally being the very reasons why 150 + year old trees we witness standing are still around today after planted by humans so long ago. Infact as a Treestorian, traditional methods our community founders used when installing trees long ago. Were meant to represent living lessons they had intentionally handed down to countless future generations. As back then it was much easier to see how wild trees naturally planted and pruned themselves. Yet unfortunately most trees we planted over last 50 years are lucky to survive past age 45. And harsh Urban conditions have nothing to do with it, but poor landscape maintenance practices do. So if you're willing, here are some important details we learned over the years on how you can unleash the full potential of your family's young tree! Good luck and enjoy..... Fast growing stems are the ones that point upward toward sky, and horizontal branches are kept in check by growing much slower.
Lesson to don't cheap out on landscapers! I hired some clown off of craigslist. Not only did he did a shitty job my new lawn, he raise the grade by 5 inches because he was too cheap to haul away the excess amount of soil. Not only did I pay him for what a decent landscaper would charge, but I have to hire the right company to redo the entire thing.
I wish the landscapers in the area where I live would watch this video. Almost all of the recently planted trees are surrounded by mulch volcanoes, and many of the trees that are a decade or so old are already dying. I live in a condominium, and a lot of the trees in the common areas are dead or dying. The bark is dying at the base and peeling off the trees. I have tried to discuss this with the management, but they say that I'm not a landscaper, so why should they listen to me.
Seven minutes to watch a video and three hours in the yard rescuing the two dozen trees we planted five years ago. I guess I've gotta have a talk with the landscapers we've hired. Thank you for the helpful information and how-to!
Mr. Volgas is a plethora of knowledge and I'm so glad you did this video because, I'm a first time DIY-er for my backyard tree root flare exposing. THANK YOU!
Glad we could help! Hope your trees stay happy and healthy.
A great reminder to mulch properly! Very timely
Thank you, sir! You just helped me save my tree that i love!
thank you, this's a perfectly explained vid.
Excellent video, thanks !
You're welcome!
This video is so valuable as an educational material! Thank you
Thanks for this video. Now I know how to do it right.
Every tree in my hoa neighborhood has mulch volcanos! Round Rock, TX.
The trees are happy, we were happy. Great video!
Very interesting info, now i know why my city's gardeners do that weird mulch pile with the dent in it.
*Two most famous lines in history. I pulled mulch away from the trunk. And, I was only following orders.*
Most important first steps in properly mulching. Is one, to sweep root flare clean of any mulch or accumulating organic Matter.
And number two, first rake out most of old mulch covering trees root plate before applying new layer.
Because otherwise inevitably, existing mulch turns into new soil. Which would then result in break the number one rule of arboriculture, never raise soil grade over trees existing root system!
Today because ALL trees arrive from nurseries with trunks already too deep in their rootball. If buried root flares are not uncovered before dug out of field, then anyone planting trees must first perform a root flare excavation.
By removing several inches of extra nursery medium from top surface of root ball that had accumulated over trees original birth grade..
Great video. Learned a lot.
I always see trees mulched like this. I never knew it was not the correct way. Great information, as I plan to plant a tree this year.
Remember everything a new tree faces during its first 15 years, will later determine potential lifespan of said tree.
We take it for granted that workers planting trees for decades must know what they're doing compared to the rest of us. Except they have learned to take shortcuts, which could result in potential problems long after they are gone.
Once professionals realize a customer knows something about trees more than the average person. They will make sure to do everything correctly according to today's most up-to-date accepted standards. If anyting, I hope you find some of the following technical information at least interesting. Especially if you are into science!
Since almost one hundred percent of new trees arrive already too deep in rootball from nurseries today.
Suggest to nursery you purchase tree from that, it first be dug out of the field at the root flare level. By removing any accumulated soil that maybe burying the trunk. This way The root ball will also end up with many more roots excavated out of the field.
Wire cages are no longer left on root ball in the ground. But they can be temporary left on, then cut apart once root ball is in the ground.
Burlap can remain attached. But never two layers of burlap, and where any folds of burlap exist. Is similar to two layers of burlap, which roots can't go through and takes longer to decompose.
One must at least temporarily pullback burlap from around trunk, to make sure root flare is not buried. And tree is being installed at its original birth grade. Installing root ball one or two above grade, is only required if water table is high in your area.
Caution whoever is planting tree, that absolutely no loose soil should be deposited directly on top of root ball surface.
Have soil laying at bottom of dugout hole firmed down to prevent tree from later settling. Since very few Roots will grow any deeper from bottom surface of root ball. Only horizontally out from root ball.
Also suggest that whole be excavated wider. Which will prevent any voids of soil ending up around root ball when Clods of soil gets dumped back in. watering the soil every once in awhile as it goes back in will get rid of air pockets.
This softer area of soil surrounding root ball, will give radially outbound growing Roots a running chance when they hit the harder wall of existing soil. Also make sure to roughing up and with a shovel score that outer wall of excavated hole. Otherwise Roots will be deflected off of smooth wall surface.
Lastly water a tree only once or twice a week, unlike new sod which needs a lot more water. Since tree roots need some dry time to breathe and expand.
Finally look up method of structural pruning during young trees formative years. This specialized required pruning will produce one main apical dominant trunk, and prevent codominant stems. Which are really two or more separate trees off of one main trunk.
Kekalek, planting a new tree can be a very exciting memorable event had by your family. And while many today in the tree industry like promoting new methods and better ideas. please note the following technical specifications I am sharing with you, come from traditional well-proven methods. Literally being the very reasons why 150 + year old trees we witness standing are still around today after planted by humans so long ago.
Infact as a Treestorian, traditional methods our community founders used when installing trees long ago. Were meant to represent living lessons they had intentionally handed down to countless future generations. As back then it was much easier to see how wild trees naturally planted and pruned themselves.
Yet unfortunately most trees we planted over last 50 years are lucky to survive past age 45. And harsh Urban conditions have nothing to do with it, but poor landscape maintenance practices do. So if you're willing, here are some important details we learned over the years on how you can unleash the full potential of your family's young tree! Good luck and enjoy.....
Fast growing stems are the ones that point upward toward sky, and horizontal branches are kept in check by growing much slower.
Lesson to don't cheap out on landscapers! I hired some clown off of craigslist. Not only did he did a shitty job my new lawn, he raise the grade by 5 inches because he was too cheap to haul away the excess amount of soil.
Not only did I pay him for what a decent landscaper would charge, but I have to hire the right company to redo the entire thing.
I wish the landscapers in the area where I live would watch this video. Almost all of the recently planted trees are surrounded by mulch volcanoes, and many of the trees that are a decade or so old are already dying. I live in a condominium, and a lot of the trees in the common areas are dead or dying. The bark is dying at the base and peeling off the trees. I have tried to discuss this with the management, but they say that I'm not a landscaper, so why should they listen to me.
So much of landscaping is copy the other person and this is what happens.
😊
man I hope I didn't kill my little baby trees by volcano mulching them :(
Leads to GIRDLING ROOTS!!!!!!!
I HATE GIRDLING ROOTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!