Basement Waterproofing Installation - Start to Finish
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Watch from start to finish how we tear out a competitor's system and replace it with our SuperDry subfloor waterproofing system. In addition, you will learn how our proprietary concrete mix makes a big difference when it comes to your walls and floor. This basement will not get our engineering tabs because the prior system installation removed the perimeter concrete floor and replace it with 1+ inch of concrete. Regardless, our concrete mix, Supercrete, will mend and strengthen the basement slab. It will be stronger than ever at 3.5 inches of thickness.
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Since 1997, American Dry Basement Systems is waterproofing basements, encapsulating crawl spaces, installing sump pumps and battery backup systems, and repairing foundation cracks in basements throughout Connecticut & Southeastern New York. Our mission is a simple one. We ensure that every customer that installs our basement waterproofing system will be water-free for life.
Keywords: American Dry Basement Systems, basement waterproofing, crawl space waterproofing, Peter O'Shea, sump pump installation, foundation crack repair, crawl space sealing, home improvement, french drain, basement waterproofers, basement waterproofing installers, sump pump installers, contractors
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Great job! As a civil engineer, the only thing I would recommend differently is to not connect the sump pump directly to the downspout. Run it all the way to the nearest catch basin in the rear yard or at the street or daylight it to a slope where it won’t cause flooding for anyone. It might work ok connecting it to the downspout most of the time, but if the check valve breaks it could force roof water into the sump pit and when it’s raining hard the downspout and the sump pump will both be trying to use the same 3 inch pipe which will cause both to drain slower.
Our setup is working great. No backwash. No broken check valves. The owner experienced 2 medium storms and one major storm in the past year with zero problems. It all comes down to the installer and experience. Your configuration might be warranted in some instances, actually, we prefer it, but we have great success with our downspout connections.
Wow , I’m a foundation builder for most of my working life and worked so many extreme cases
And listened to a thousand opinions of what should be done to keep it dry and not spend any extra $
The next video is about rubber wall 😳
Nice to see an overview of the entire process. Quality work! We have an older house with water seepage issues in the basement/garage. This the company that we contacted for an estimate.
I obsessively researched basement waterproofing and ended up on a system very similar to this. They didn't use a crystalline wall slurry after, but I coincidentally did something similar with Radonseal (not as heavy duty but similar concept, strengthening concrete with silica). I have both an under the floor channel about 12" in from the wall and about 12" down, as well as an above ground channel epoxied along the wall/floor edge to capture any seepage coming through the wall. Both feed into sump pump buried into floor, which also drains my dehumidifier. That work cost me $12k (I already owned the dehumidifier, it rarely turns itself on now. Expensive job but worth it). Then I DIY'd everything from there - after Radonseal I put Block-IT housewrap on the wall (hung from sill plate), taped seams with housewrap tape and waterproof (Gorilla) taped it just inside the wall/floor edge channel (basically creating a drainage plane that still allows drying as housewrap is not a vapor barrier). Then I framed the walls so they have about 1 1/2" gap away from foundation wall (width of floor channel). Insulating with rockwool, then mold resistant drywall. My basement is awesome now, almost never gets above 40% humidity even in summer. It used to flood and was extremely humid despite the dehumidifier, which ran constantly. This house is in the humid, wet southeast, not CA (I live in CA too where it's all about fireproofing lol).
Excellent! You did well in overseeing the installation and making sure it was done right. There is nothing like getting rid of that dampness.
Any materials you recommend? My underground parking is flooding and needs a lot of work.
I don't get the black hose sitting on top of the water
This video is very informative. Makes quite clear what the underlying issues are.
I’ve done a lot of waterproofing in Seattle area. Tons of rain. This guy seems legit.
Thank you. I cannot conduct business any other way but legit. I have a conscious and it has served me well.
Anybody you recommend in Chicago?
What would you use for cmu block retaining wall
@@cainehand1 Depends on if new or old pour. First step is always drainage. Make sure water has a path away from wall. Then if fully cured some sort of impermeable membrane. If not fully cured, something that can breath. But always a path for water away from building.
Bravo my man … this was fun to watch . I’m ready to get to work
It is very valuable information you gave to all us, thank you!
These videos are very helpful! Thank you!
Glad you like them!
I wish you guys came to the Central Valley in California! ❤
Very informative and interesting! You are very helpfully!
Thanks for the video. I like the system. I have a couple of questions. The discharge pipe exits the basement to the exterior. Won't it freeze? Also, applying the crystalizing slurry on the bottom 20-30", why wouldn't you apply it to the entire wall? I also don't understand the plastic membrane that you installed in the corner. If i decide to build drywall walls on the exterior concrete wall won't it cause dampness issues?
I was wondering the same questions?
@@johns.1940 yeah, no answer as of yet.
Very informative!
Very interesting. Thanks.
Very insightful!
Glad it was helpful!
How deep did you guys go with that concrete and drain you guys put under the basement?
Can you elaborate on the use of the sanitizing fogger?
If your chemical product turns porous concrete into non-porous concrete, then why not do the whole wall and forego the trench system?
Right? I'm trying to figure that out. Why not just put that on all the brick and concrete surfaces?
I think without a trench, the water line would just get higher and higher and increase pressure on the walls. Depending on how strong they are it’s possible they could buckle if the water has nowhere to go. It’s also possible the water would just slip under your footing and come up through the floor.
As for going all the way up with the coating, that’s just to decrease cost for the customer. If the water level doesn’t rise above the line (because of the drain system) why waste the material and the money?
@@didriksoderstrom9891 That is a good point about the buckling.. if they water pressure is that strong, certainly. But if the water can drain somewhere else (I live on the side of a hill) then maybe it would work if I also used the crystalline slurry on the floor, because it is also concrete.
@@didriksoderstrom9891I would think the better way is to dig outside and put the French drain in out there. If the water is directed away from the home, foundation and footing the water won’t be in the basement under the floor at all.
Why is the super slurry only applied part way up?
good system, the only fail point that I see is that you pumped the water to the outside if I saw that correctly...that drain would freeze around here but not sure you have that problem plus you might not have water issues in the winter I don't know.
An attachment is mounted on the sump pump discharge pipe on the outside of the basement wall. It prevents an ice clog that can backup water into the basement during the winter. Every house with a sump pump requires this attachment in the northeast.
I saw in a previous video of yours that you left sections of the existing floor sitting on the footing to avoid creating a "floating" floor in an effort to avoid cracking. In that video I didn't notice how you addressed the water that takes the path beneath the wall - atop the footing that would ultimately enter the basement between the floor and wall at this location. In areas where you removed the floor to the wall you place the dimple matting that created a gap for said water to be directed to the installed drainage system - but I didn't see this matting placed in the areas where you left the sections of existing floor. I assume that is a location where water could ultimately end up coming through?
Lastly, the new concrete that you place will likely settle and cause a crack at the joint between the new/old concrete, no? The soil beneath the existing floor is compacted and fully consolidated as it has likely been in place for years and when you dig down for the the drainage install you are disturbing the subbase material which will consolidate later and thus settle. Do you ever use dowelling?
Water only goes where we cut the floor out and cover with a dimple board. The tabs never see the water because water takes the path of least resistance, following the dimple board into the cutout sections.
Looking great!
When the music kicked in, I thought Rocky was gonna come out.
Great video! Whats the EUropean equivalent of the superslurry treatment? What ingredients should I be looking for in a good product?
It is proprietary.
My basement wall were built in 1938. Cinder Block walls. Are they just as porous as a concrete wall and does your system work with cinder block walls?
Yes. Our system works with block walls. Watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/d3PY7e61imA/v-deo.html
If half of your basement is at ground level, is it okay to drain out to the garden which slopes aways from the house ? Instead of the need of a sump pump?
Great video thanks!
How does the water from outside go into your drainage inside? Can you point me to a video showing that? I see why digging it deeper is important but I don’t see how that water outside of the wall is coming down into your drainage.
Good point. I will start inserting an animation to show how water goes into our drainage system from the outside. For now, here is a link to an animation that shows how water seeps in from outside. ua-cam.com/video/lCgGBJz1f5s/v-deo.html
I have an interior drainage system similar to yours with a sump pit. I have exterior foundation drain system around the perimeter. The foundation was poured. They used forms 36" wide with a brick pattern on the inside for the foundation wall. Water seeps in the "seems" of the wall. Every 36 inches. Possible cold joints between pours? How do I stop that? The sump system appears to work because the pump runs often during and after a rain storm.
Do you install the system against ONLY the wall that has show leakage or do you often install it along multiple walls? I think we may have water pressure against our West and North wall.
Also, why do you stop at 24" with your slurry product? Would you go as high as you see evidence of the false water table or is that unnecessary for some reason?
I love your UA-cam videos. I have a basement water problem and it's been great educating myself on the available solutions.
Unfortunately, I'm in Little Rock, AR. Can you recommend someone that uses your system? If not, is there a system that I can call and ask people vendors if they're experienced with them?
You should make a video on How to Qualify Your Waterproofing Vendor. I've spent a lot of money on solutions that haven't worked.
i have a monolithic poured basement floor with block walls. looking for a waterproofing solution what would you recomend?
My question is, once you use the chemical mixture to mix into the concrete and turn the concrete into non porous concrete, how will the water drain down to the French drains to be pumped out?
Through cove joints and weep holes.
these guys are good 👍
Dayton Ohio here, have a 50 year old home, poured concrete basement walls, no visible water damage like what I see on your videos, does have a couple crack repairs, my question is, I see you reccomend to not apply lock tight or waterproofer, is it Ok to paint basement walls? If so what type of paint should be used?
No water problem in Ohio? You are a lucky one. I always recommend against masonry paint because they tend to increase condensation in the basement by not allowing the concrete to breathe. It also depends on the situation. You may or may not need a dehumidifier after painting.
What type of sump pump do you install?
Should you not put any sealer above the 2 foot "proprietary sealer"? Just wondering if that would be helpful or harmful.
No need to add more sealer. It will grow into the rest of the wall.
Kick ass video
Fantastic video. I decided not to go with JES Foundation repair who proposed a box system based on your videos. What are the pros/cons of wrapping the stone in geotextile no woven filter fabric for an interior French drain placed next to the footer? I noticed you don’t use fabric fabric but the French Drain Man on UA-cam stresses the importance of keeping the stone clean. He says, otherwise the stone migrates into the soil and the soil migrates into the stone. I appreciate your time and consideration for my diy project. I wish you worked in the DC metro area.
I'm not a big fan of filter fabric or landscaping fabric. A filter by nature should be changed. Once under the floor you can't change it. Filters do clog and reduce water entry into drainage channels allowing water to rise in big storm events. Some manufactures offer drainage pipe pre-wrapped with a filter. We refuse to install them. Stone is always better. Ask the army corp of engineers.
Did you find a good company in the DC area?
@@djeff8178 I have the same question for my foundation waterproofing project. Either of you find a company that AmericanDry near DC?
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems This is an interesting point of discussion.
Are your services available in Western New York (Erie County) ?
Unfortunately, no.
Great video. I've been trying to find the best method for vapor-sealing and insulating the CMU foundation wall that wraps all around the bottom wall of my garage. 5 gallons of something like RadonSeal for $260 is just too expensive for me. Do you have recommendations for other, more affordable products? Thank you!
Can you put super slurry over drylok
No.
I live in Cleveland, Ohio. Can I purchase your super slurry?
No, sorry
Jd johnson waterproofing I’m in Brooklyn Ohio I used them there good
Thanks for all your educational videos , I understand that tiles used by your company don't have that fabric linear, which protects tiles very effectively against clogging and particles going into the tubes , doesn't cost much to upgrade them though . Moreover I believe that's almost every experts advice to use PVC ones , what is your preference and why , can you shed some light please
What happens when you wrap anything with a filter? It clogs, or will slow water flow to a trickle. The false water table around your house will remain high with a fabric wrapped pipe (drain tile). PVC is great for many things, but not for drainage pipe under a basement floor. They require cleanouts because they are prone to clogging in many instances unlike corrugated, perforated ADS pipe. The corrugation amplifies speed on a pitch to the sump basket and keeps the pipe clean. No pitch, then the pipe will clog.
You don’t use fabric on the inside perimeter of the tile. You use fabric on the outside tile, but you need to back fill the outside with 6 foot of stone.
So they would still have intrusion through the walls and would never be able to finish the basement. This would just keep the basement from flooding or am I wrong.
We do more than stop flooding. We want to keep the basement dry all the time, so the homeowner can finish the basement without fear. Hydrostatic pressure will always push water up beneath the floor and penetrate the cove joint in homes more susceptible to water seepage. Our system assures it is removed unnoticed.
Can that product to make the concrete “non porous” be used on a basement with a cinder block foundation ? House is from 1924
Yes, it can.
Is the super slurry something you guys would sell? Or are there other products like it? Unfortunately I am out of your range of where you guys work.
Excellent presentation but I'm hung up on the claim that the "super slurry" self-permeates thru the wall from the inside to the outside making the treated part of the wall impermeable to water.
It is amazing such a product exists. You can find many variations of concrete crystalline products on the market, even at Home Depot. Xypex and KIM are a couple of pro brands that are used to reinforce concrete bridges and suspended highways. Our superslurry and supercrete do use similar ingredients that literally keep growing long after the application to make the treated concrete a waterproof barrier. Google concrete crystalline products and learn about their capabilities.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems then why not do the whole wall with the stuff?
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Would you recommend the superslurry on the inside of new construction basement walls? What product do you recommend that is readily available at local builder supply center?
where can I buy that grey plastic
What happens if your basement doesnt even have a pump..? I have a single large drain near the center with sloped floors. When it rains, I have little rivers. My house was built in 1949. Is there anything that can be done for it..?
We installed our SuperDry system for an old post office built earlier than your home. They had drains in the center. We installed our system below the floor around all four walls and ran pipes from the system to the center drains. Any hydrostatic water now enters the drains from beneath the floor. It works beautifully without sump pumps. You have to inspect and clear the drainage path to the outside from the interior drains. Here is the video for the installation: ua-cam.com/video/qpmk99g-uYs/v-deo.html Unfortunately, we did not include the floor drain installation. We will soon be uploading one showing the process.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems awesome. Ill be on the lookout for that
Could you please provide the product that you used to seal the walls? Thank you.
We only provide our proprietary products in our installations. You can look for other similar products online that have crystalline concrete repair ingredients. We provide our own because it is mixed with a variety of properties that make it perfect for basements and crawl spaces.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Thank you for the replay, unfortunately, you are indifferent state. Can you recommend brands that I should look for?
I’m almost 100% positive they use xypex
@@Foresthill39212 is this effective? My basement wall is crumbling at the bottom
Yes. You have to go through an extensive repair process check out the product videos on UA-cam and follow any and all instructions depending on how bad your wall is you may need further repair never shy away from consulting a professional before attempting the repair yourself most people are happy to help.
Can you mix that produxt in with the cement ?
Yes, except it will dramatically increase the cost of construction. The go-to cement for home construction is standard or portland cement around 3500 psi.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems ah gotcha , so just get your contractor or builder or whatever to buy it , problem solved ?
Do you service Massachusetts? Can this be done in the winter time?
We don't do service in Massachusetts. Yes, interior subfloor drainage systems can be installed during the winter. If required, the only portion of the job that will be delayed is the installation of the exterior dry well. That requires digging in the ground, burying pipe, stone, and bubbler pot. The ground is too hard until April.
I've done waterproofing for a company and when we replace the concrete we would only replace it with 2 inches of fresh concrete... you think that's enough or is 3 1/2 inches code in most of the US?
The 3 1/2 inches is based on the International Code Council specs for construction engineers. It is the right way to do it for foundation stability and integrity. Many towns, districts, and states follow this code and require a town inspector before and after. Many areas don't require inspection, but can change rules and instate the code. If they do, you are required to redo that part of the basement.
Great video !! Do you serve northern Jersey - Ramsey NJ (bergen County)?
We do not serve in NJ. Only Connecticut and New York.
great
Hi, do you cover NJ?
Sorry, no
Is it better to do waterproofing from the inside or the outside?
New Construction should already have waterproofing applied on the outside. Once a family settles in and water seepage becomes a problem, INSIDE waterproofing is the best option. It beats outside waterproofing on cost, convenience, and efficiency. It all comes down to the quality of the installation. Any bad contractor can create a disaster inside or outside.
Why do you only put the waterproof slurry at the base of the walls? Why not the all the way up and why not the floor? If it penetrates all the way through isn’t it waterproofing it from the outside?
Also, if it’s proprietary how can I find someone in my area doing something similar
The slurry is applied a little above the hydrostatic line from the bottom of the floor. Water is more likely to linger in this area as it is removed by our drainage system. The super slurry does not allow water in through the concrete pores. It also decreases or in most cases eliminates dampness in the walls. Nothing is as fine-tuned as our proprietary crystalline product SuperSlurry, but there are similar products on the market. Research and you will find. Ask your waterproofing contractor if they know how to mix and use. Good luck.
Do you use perforated or non for the pipe?
Perforated and corrugated.
Nooice! 😎 STOC
What is sanitizing fogger ?
Read about it here: americandry.com/disinfect-sanitize/
Do you have any affiliates in Naigara falls Canada?
No. Sorry.
Won't the walls fall down without the engineered tabs? Why do the tabs on some jobs and not others?
The walls will not fall down without a slab floor, but settling, shifting, movement in the foundation will be more pronounced. A slight 1/10 of inch crack or movement will be more noticeable in the floors above it. The work we do without engineering tabs are because we have to remove another waterproofing company's faulty work. They already removed the floor entirely from the footing. Regardless, our Supercrete will work better than the floor that use to be there. We just don't have engineering tabs to speed up the curing process and to keep the structural integrity intact for the short term.
Why not apply to the entire wall?
We only cover the height from the floor and up 24 to 36 inches. When a very heavy rain reaches that height outside your wall it will create pressure to squeeze water under your floor and through any cold joints. Water will consistently stay at this height the longest. Sometimes for 36 hours after a storm. We make sure water does not get absorbed through the wall while allowing the top area to still breath and evaporate any moisture from the damp soil.
Do you sell your proprietary products to the public? Your company does not service my area.
No, but you can find similar products online that use crystalline waterproofing.