My BMW N55 Eats Belts - Codes: 28A0, P112F, P0300- Crankshaft Seal and Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- My 2011 BMW X5 (N55) - Chip Shortage Bargain has turned into a money pit, when I discover it ingested the drive belt through the crankshaft seal. Watch me remove/replace the front crankshaft seal, replace the belt, pulleys, tensioner, and oil pan gasket. I as tackle multiple BMW codes: 28A0, P112F, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0305.
**Warning**
This is a challenging DIY project that can cause harm to yourself and your vehicle. Some footage of the removal/installation process has been skipped for time. Please seek the help of a professional auto mechanic.
Parts used in this video:
Crankshaft Seal Remover/Install - ECS Tuning Part# 3673973
Oil Filter Cap Remover/Install - ECS Tuning Part# 2167951
Engine Mount - Left Side BMW Part # 22116865145
Engine Mount - Right Side BMW Part # 22116865146
Oil Pan Gasket - BMW Part # 11137600482
Oil Pan Bolts - BMW Part # 11132210959 (it's a kit)
Front Diff Fluid - BMW 75w-90
Front Axle Seal w/Retaining Clip - BMW Part # 31508743675 (quantity x2)
O-Ring - BMW Part # 31511213527 (quantity x2)
Front Diff Input Seal Kit - BMW Part # 31521428678sKT
Crankshaft Seal - BMW Part # 11117547842
Serpentine Belt - BMW Part # 11287628659
Drive Belt Idler Pulley 75mm - BMW Part # 11287615130
Drive Belt Pulley - BMW Part # 11288673720
Belt Tensioner - BMW Part # 11288604266
Crankshaft Seal Primer - BMW Part # 83197515683
Crankshaft Seal RTV - Grey Stuff (from Autozone)
Crankshaft Cover (Vargas) - Part # VTT-CRANK-GUARD
Who would’ve thought cheap plastic and cheap gaskets wouldn’t last much longer than the life of the warranty? I’m as shocked as the engineers must be.
Props to you man!!
I have an n54 and appreciate your info and great video
28A0 got me here. Threw a belt due to tensioner malfunction. I didn't see any scraps behind the crank pulley but will smoke test and expect front seal blown.
Confirmed; wow seal gone. No scraps in engine so far. I will be able to fit my fiber optic cam in through the seal
Main thing is to make sure not belt parts end up in the oil pump. Hard to tell without taking off the oil pan.
I never thought I would hear about belts intruding into the timing cover area again on more modern cars after working on the City Intrepid police cars with the 3.5 engine, those had timing belts and they would throw the timing off and destroy the engines with valves hitting the pistons after the a/c v-belt would come off and get into the cover.
But I'm crossing my fingers now that the used X5 I bought doesn't have pieces in the pan (or oil pick up screen), I know by the Carfax that the belt and tensioner were replaced and hopefully it wasn't because the belt was shredded. 🤞
Hi, I'd like to express my gratitude for the fantastic video you provided. It was extremely helpful to me as I recently bought a 2012 BMW X5 facing a similar issue. Fortunately, I have a friend who owns a shop, and they've been kind enough to assist me. We've taken several steps to address the problem, including replacing the seal gasket coils, performing walnut blasting on the intake valves, and addressing the valve cover gaskets and control arms. Despite these efforts, the engine continues to run rough with misfires occurring across all cylinders.
Did you ever figure out your issue. Did you ever replace the injectors I didn't notice if you had mentioned that. Many people miss that. The injectors become clogged by the ethonal mixed in the fuel and other contamination. Just because your not getting a code doesn't mean it's not an issue.
any update... running rough still , what did you find ? pls share
Hi, thanks for asking about it, I did replaced the timing chain it was about 1/4 on an inch longer big improvement and performance but still running just a bit rough in idle. I am planning to replace the catalytic converter,
@@cruzfernandez4554 thank you for the update.
Hey bud did you ever change your injectors ? Ethanol cloggs injectors up see it all the time.
What about the plugs
Also clean your MAF sensors with the specific cleaners they sell CRC has a good one and lastly you should smoke test it because one small air leaks can do this.
I own a x5 for 4 years now and just love it
I have been chasing the P112F code. Have smoked the intake multiple times, no leaks. I guess I’ll be smoking the valve cover next.
did you fix this
@@jasonr2528 still no fix. I did smoke the valve cover and did not see no smoke coming from the front main seal. I think I have a small intake leak somewhere, I do here a small air leak sound around the intake manifold or valve cover. I’ve been planning on pressuring up the intake side with air and smoke. The code comes up every other day, the exhaust sound at idle has a little popping sound. Valve cover, intake seals have been replaced
Did u check ur map sensor could be bad or needs cleaned
@@xpert447 For a while I think I was getting a map sensor code. Cleaned both map and boost psi sensor, it did not help. I swapped the sensors around and code went away on map but came back to boost psi sensor. I replaced both sensors with original ones from FCP (I order all my parts from there) No codes for the sensors but still get that annoying P112F at times. Exhaust at times still has that popping noise
@@Fatfox806 I got that p112f the other day drove the car for the day the next day it went away for few weeks then happened again the other night and something drove for a couple hours went to start and it went away again and im not getting any vibration or sputter or hesitation either no loss of power so idk if its just a fluke or beginning stage of something goin bad and ideas
The problem is the white tool inside it is the problem. It is poorly designed. It depends on the brand of the seal .
Man i checked my car e71 through an obd scanner and i have the same 2 codes 😢 just wish me luck
And beside thank u for the video now i know wot to tell the mechanic to do exactly to my car
Yes, the X6. Im sorry to hear! P112F and 28A0 typically mean there is a vacuum leak somewhere. Start with smoking the intake and Valve Cover (through the oil fillup). Don't let the mechanic go down the ISTA repair plan, costing you hundreds if not thousands on diagnoses. But yes, have the mechanic watch this video and Like and Subscribe if it's helpful.
@@ShoppeRx
Yeah i will do but I’m pretty sure its the crankshaft seal because at the day the codes appeared (btw no check engine light and i have smooth idle) oil light came on asking me to add some oil which i assumed according to what i read its a common thing and i start to hear a squeaky sound comes from the belts especially when i turn at low rpm .
So when i saw your video and all what happened it does make sense now to me and yeah i will check the hoses for leak but for sure i will let him check the seal regardless .
That 28a0 code sometimes come on after you delete codes or use a scanner good video
Hi Sir.... can you elaborate on your thoughts/input and experience with the 28a0 code? ty
Hello Guys,
I got this BMW X5 2012 xdriv35i E70 last year and I am trying to keep it for long term.
I have been dealing with a code : 28A0 ( Air Mss System, plausibility: Calculated air masses in the air intake system not plausible) for long time.
This is was has been done to the car related or not to the issue:
Order:
RELATED:
DMLT VALVE replaced
Purge valve replaced
charge pipe replaced with FTP
Valve cover and other parts replaced. OEM
TMAP/MAP Sensor replaced (intake and charge pipe)
MAF sensor cleaned and new gasket installed
Superjet pump vacuum hose replaced
Air filter box gasket replaced.
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NOT RELATED:
Current Miles: 110.000
Oil filter and gaskets MANN, Oil 5w30 Liquid Moly , air filter MANN , drain plug and gasket - changed every 5k miles.
PREMIUM 93-94 octane fuel (Delta, Shell, Sunoco)
Brakes pads , rotors and sensor
Parking brake actuator
Spark Plugs and Coils
Oil filter housing gasket and mickey mouse replaced, coolant flush
Transfer case fluid changed
Differentials fluid changed.
Transmission fluid and filter changed.
Heater control valve
radiator cap
steering wheel cap
L/R Mirror glasses
Right interior temperature sensor HVAC
AUC Sensor
Exterior and Interior HVAC Filters
Parts supplier: FCP EURO (OE/OEM)
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I have been doing some smoke tests and this is what I found and Fixed.
Charge pipe leaking: FIXED
Maf sensor leaking: FIXED
Map Sensor leaking: FIXED
Superjet pump vacuum line leaking: FIXED
Air box filter gasket leaking: FIXED
Valve cover gasket leaking: FIXED
Map Sensor leaking: FIXED
besides that I can't find more vacuum leaks with my smoke teste, I don't see any smoke coming out anywhere.
What else can I do ?
Something also weird is that the EVAP Monitor never gets done.
Car runs perfect , no issues , no bad idle, not knocking (just some times you can feel a small misfire but the RPM does not go crazy.
The light and code triggers when the car is being drive at constantly low RPM (1000rpm-1500rpm) and around speed of 25-35mph.
If avoid those situation I won't get the light but I will get the code sometimes as pending.
I am tired of this code
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Some Live data:
Short trim fuel are usually at 0%
Long term fuel are usually at -2,3%
Short trim sensor 2 is usually at 99.2%
O2 b1s1 is usually at : 1.4 - 1.5
O2 b1s2 is usually at : 0.7
Intake manifold pressure after throttle valve: 13.93 psi
Intake pipe vacuum before throttle valve (charging pressure - setpoint value) : 14.65 psi
Intake pipe vacuum before throttle valve: 14.63 psi
Charge air temperature: 115.7 F
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Please let me know what else can I do to diagnostic and fix this code, It is the only code that the car has.
Thank you so much!
Not familiar with this but I would check the trottle body and MAF. Try reseting the Throttle Body and maybe clean it. This is a strange situation. Seems you have done everything.
Hi if I have this issue can I still drive the car?? Or no because the dry belt can get in the oil pick up tube, but what happens if that happens, can the dry belt actually get in the engine
"Drive" belt. And yes, pieces of it can enter the oil stream and clog up oil passages. If that happens, you are looking at a total engine loss. A very common occurrence.
Does anyone how long before the engine actually seizes
Hey men i have the same car bmw x5 n55 engine and im getting this codes 28A0 and 2820 so basically i have to replace this part then ? Or it could be something else wrong in inside the car ?
Before replacing any parts, I would recommend smoking the intake and and engine through the oil fill. Check for leaks. 28A0 and P112F codes mean there is some type of vacuum leak somewhere. Rare cases it's something to do with internal engine issues, such as the camshaft drag, damaged pistons, etc.
@@ShoppeRx hey bro the code went away when reseting adaptation the car runs good the only thing is sometimes i get rough idle at cold start and warm but i think it might be a small leak somewhere i will do a smoke test to see thanks men 👍
Ha first time aye 😂
p112f 2010 x6 can get it for 9500 kid replaced map and mass air. no fix what's your opinion on the p112f has light on and ocassionaly has a miss im told. found your vid thought id ask ya your thoughts thanks left u a thumbs up
I believe you have the N54 engine and not the N55 as shown. The N54 engine has issues with carbon buildup at the intake of the engine. I have heard of walnut blasting being a key to good breathing.
P112F means you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Get the intake and valve cover smoked 1st and check for leaks
And then my friend will send my password