For anyone that wants a full list of what was used... Here you go: Citadel Colour: Contrast Guilliman Flesh Contrast Talassar Blue Contrast Iyanden Yellow Contrast Blood Angels Red Contrast Snakebite Leather Contrast Black Templar Contrast Wyldwood (Brown)k Contrast Ork Flesh (used in video) - alternatively: Contrast Militarum Green Contrast Volupus Pink Contrast Apothecary White Acrylic Paints: White Undercoat Spray (figures) Grey Undercoat Spray (Bases) Silver Spray (Ultron and Ironman) Americana Slate Grey - alternatively any Light Grey (for stone/rock) Any (your favourite) Silver 09050 Antique Gold - alternatively any Gold Americana Lamp (Ebony) Black - alternatively any Black Washes: Citadel Nuln Oil - alternatively Army Painter Dark Tone Army Painter Purple Tone Varnish: Testors 1260 Dullcote (Clear Coat) Spray Lacquer I checked the whole video about 3 times to make sure I never missed any. Hope this helps.
I just painted Iron Man and Primed him with silver / plate mail metal. But after using Iyanden Yellow, I went over it with a Citadel Auric Armour Gold (that I reserved for Zemo's Headpiece) and to me it feels a lot better, the color pops more in those area's. I even started thinking I could have used Gold Primer on Iron Man. I really enjoy your instructions, clear, to the point, and easy to understand.
I just bought this today, my first miniature collection, and your video is very helpful! Thank you! (still practicing on cheap/2nd hand models first until. Confident to do this whole set... And the venom I bought tonight 😍)
Snakebite leather was my favorite. Used them on some haqqislam figures from infinity and what would hate taken 5+ coats to meticulously shade their trench coats was done in one, it really blew me away. I find that colors like blood angel red and black templar have a tendency to simply color that space in without much contrast, but thinking it helped, it might have just been my batch.
Yes, the browns, yellow, and black are awesome with textured models. Red and blue aren't as good, especially the darker ones. But they have their uses. I'm glad they are helping cut down the paint time for you too!
Great video. It is easy to get the best of both worlds with contrast by simply adding a drybrush step to slightly highlight and distract from the blotchy effect sometimes left by contrast. It is still low skill level and relatively quick.
nevermind heres one: Citadel contrasts: gulliman flesh iyaden yellow blood angels red snake bite leather black templar wyldwood orc flesh volupus pink apothecary white any acrylic: silver black Army painter quickshade: black purple
I could imagine that preshading / zenithal white drybrushing over a darker basing tone (black or a shadowy brown) could maximize the effect of the new contrast colors
Yes, when I want more shading or blacklining, I spray paint in black and then drybrush the entire model in white and that gives me some more contrast. But it adds a step so slows down the process a little.
You can minimize the "splotchiness" of these paints by using more paint on your brush and dab it on, instead of strokes. I get great results that way. Juan explains it well in a video he published: ua-cam.com/video/IhholrozptI/v-deo.html
So many questions......I just bought this game loved the miniature models and began assembling them yesterday....there’s something soothing about building the pieces.....but ANXIETY hit when I decided that I’d want to paint them. Can anyone recommend the best paint? And primer to use? I’ve seen some different paints but being new it’s all pretty much colors to me
If you are in the States, use Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover Matte (Flat) White Primer for $4 at Walmart. There is no "best" paint because each one has different personalities and applications. Contrast colors that I use make it easy because you can do it in one coat but they are expensive. When I first started, I used cheap craft paints which work fine but don't have the pigment density of more expensive dedicated mini paint. If you want to get mini paint, I would buy Army Painter as it is the best bang for your buck. Hope that helps!
There is of course a lot more that could have been done and could still be done to enhance them but for a fast tabletop nothing wrong with speed paints or contrast paints.
Looks good brother. Making the Core set more tempting. I'll look around your catalogue, but have you done the Colossus/Majik or Cable/Domino sets this way?
What do you personally use to prime them and any particular white spray paint you used as your initial base as you suggested? This will be my first foray into painting and loved how yours turned out so hoping to emulate it.
Here in the States, I buy 2X Rustoleum Ultracover white primer for about $4/can. It is better to do a couple of light coats rather than one thick coat since it takes only about ten minutes to dry (during warmer weather). I usually lay my minis on one side, spray from multiple angles. Once that is fully dry, I flip them over and repeat. Finally, I stand them up and spray from above. Hope that helps!
I noticed that as i am painting doc ock with the ork flesh it is going on a bit darker than it appears in your video. Is that normal? why does your paint look alot lighter?
The amount of paint that you have on your brush makes a big difference. If applying a thinnner coat doesn't give you the look you need, try adding a little water to your brush. If you have Contrast Medium, that would work as well.
For anyone that wants a full list of what was used... Here you go:
Citadel Colour:
Contrast Guilliman Flesh
Contrast Talassar Blue
Contrast Iyanden Yellow
Contrast Blood Angels Red
Contrast Snakebite Leather
Contrast Black Templar
Contrast Wyldwood (Brown)k
Contrast Ork Flesh (used in video) - alternatively: Contrast Militarum Green
Contrast Volupus Pink
Contrast Apothecary White
Acrylic Paints:
White Undercoat Spray (figures)
Grey Undercoat Spray (Bases)
Silver Spray (Ultron and Ironman)
Americana Slate Grey - alternatively any Light Grey (for stone/rock)
Any (your favourite) Silver
09050 Antique Gold - alternatively any Gold
Americana Lamp (Ebony) Black - alternatively any Black
Washes:
Citadel Nuln Oil - alternatively Army Painter Dark Tone
Army Painter Purple Tone
Varnish:
Testors 1260 Dullcote (Clear Coat) Spray Lacquer
I checked the whole video about 3 times to make sure I never missed any.
Hope this helps.
I'm not a great painter so using these techniques is very tempting to quickly create good tabletop quality minis. Great video thanks for making it!
Glad it is helpful! Remember, a mediocre paint job is better than no color at all.
I just painted Iron Man and Primed him with silver / plate mail metal. But after using Iyanden Yellow, I went over it with a Citadel Auric Armour Gold (that I reserved for Zemo's Headpiece) and to me it feels a lot better, the color pops more in those area's.
I even started thinking I could have used Gold Primer on Iron Man.
I really enjoy your instructions, clear, to the point, and easy to understand.
I don't know what you're talking about - they turned out great! Good job! Very vibrant colors. Perfect for that comic book feel
Great speed paint! I shared this with a friend who is new to painting. :)
I just bought this today, my first miniature collection, and your video is very helpful! Thank you! (still practicing on cheap/2nd hand models first until. Confident to do this whole set... And the venom I bought tonight 😍)
Glad it helps! Good luck.
Using this during my lunch break. Thank you for helping get my shame pile finished!
Snakebite leather was my favorite. Used them on some haqqislam figures from infinity and what would hate taken 5+ coats to meticulously shade their trench coats was done in one, it really blew me away. I find that colors like blood angel red and black templar have a tendency to simply color that space in without much contrast, but thinking it helped, it might have just been my batch.
Yes, the browns, yellow, and black are awesome with textured models. Red and blue aren't as good, especially the darker ones. But they have their uses. I'm glad they are helping cut down the paint time for you too!
Your video is really helpful 👍🏻 I’m going to paint my miniatures and I was looking for some tips, many thanks 😊
Glad it is helpful! Hope you are having fun playing the game.
Im surprised how well contrast works on these guys (Given their smooth surfaces). nice!
Those came out great! I'm glad to hear you're going to do a segment on the scenery.
Great video. It is easy to get the best of both worlds with contrast by simply adding a drybrush step to slightly highlight and distract from the blotchy effect sometimes left by contrast. It is still low skill level and relatively quick.
Thanks for this! Could I also ask for a list here of all the contrast paints used? :) For easy reference
it would be awesome to have a full paint list
nevermind heres one:
Citadel contrasts:
gulliman flesh
iyaden yellow
blood angels red
snake bite leather
black templar
wyldwood
orc flesh
volupus pink
apothecary white
any acrylic:
silver
black
Army painter quickshade:
black
purple
@@trepedationgames5408 I was going to respond but you did it for me! Thanks for taking the time.
@@trepedationgames5408 you missed "talassar blue"
You should do more crisis protocol videos
I could imagine that preshading / zenithal white drybrushing over a darker basing tone (black or a shadowy brown) could maximize the effect of the new contrast colors
Yes, when I want more shading or blacklining, I spray paint in black and then drybrush the entire model in white and that gives me some more contrast. But it adds a step so slows down the process a little.
You can minimize the "splotchiness" of these paints by using more paint on your brush and dab it on, instead of strokes. I get great results that way. Juan explains it well in a video he published:
ua-cam.com/video/IhholrozptI/v-deo.html
So many questions......I just bought this game loved the miniature models and began assembling them yesterday....there’s something soothing about building the pieces.....but ANXIETY hit when I decided that I’d want to paint them.
Can anyone recommend the best paint? And primer to use? I’ve seen some different paints but being new it’s all pretty much colors to me
If you are in the States, use Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover Matte (Flat) White Primer for $4 at Walmart. There is no "best" paint because each one has different personalities and applications. Contrast colors that I use make it easy because you can do it in one coat but they are expensive. When I first started, I used cheap craft paints which work fine but don't have the pigment density of more expensive dedicated mini paint. If you want to get mini paint, I would buy Army Painter as it is the best bang for your buck. Hope that helps!
There is of course a lot more that could have been done and could still be done to enhance them but for a fast tabletop nothing wrong with speed paints or contrast paints.
Looks good brother. Making the Core set more tempting. I'll look around your catalogue, but have you done the Colossus/Majik or Cable/Domino sets this way?
When you talks about the Gold about the 1238-1246 mark you said put null oil wash did you put that over the Gold? Or the sword?
Only over the sword. I usually don't put a wash over gold but in the rare cases I do, I use Agrax Earthshade.
@@gaminggeek241 Thank you sir for your reply and thank you for the content excellent as always
What do you personally use to prime them and any particular white spray paint you used as your initial base as you suggested? This will be my first foray into painting and loved how yours turned out so hoping to emulate it.
Here in the States, I buy 2X Rustoleum Ultracover white primer for about $4/can. It is better to do a couple of light coats rather than one thick coat since it takes only about ten minutes to dry (during warmer weather). I usually lay my minis on one side, spray from multiple angles. Once that is fully dry, I flip them over and repeat. Finally, I stand them up and spray from above. Hope that helps!
were can we get the figures to paint?
I noticed that as i am painting doc ock with the ork flesh it is going on a bit darker than it appears in your video. Is that normal? why does your paint look alot lighter?
The amount of paint that you have on your brush makes a big difference. If applying a thinnner coat doesn't give you the look you need, try adding a little water to your brush. If you have Contrast Medium, that would work as well.
Did these paints come in a kit or did you buy them individually?
I bought them individually. They might come in a kit at GW's online store but at my game store, they are sold individually.
What size brush do you use?
IIRC, it's a number 2.
well done!!!!
Anyone ever play this game on a Heroscape board??
You could if you wanted to get rid of using rulers for measuring distance.
Contrast paints are a plague on the mini painting world.