Awesome videos. I've rebuilt engines, replaced clutches, replaced transmissions, axles... you name it. But I've never replaced drum brakes on a car. Always had a bit of trepidation about it lol. Love these videos as they pertain exactly to my car.
For a young guy, your how to video was so much more to the point and well explained than most videos out there by guys who had been turning wrenches as long as myself!!! I love those young men still willing to get in their, het their hands dirty, and do things themselves,,, instead of watching them sit behind a keyboard all day and have absolutely no street smarts what so ever! I don't know you personally, but in a sense I was proud of you as if I did, while watching this video! Maybe a bit because you look like a friend of my son's,who is a great kid too! Thank you for sharing this how too with us all, and I look forward to seeing more!! I don't actuallu do that 'subscribe' thing everyone asks for,, but you got one from me!!
Thank you so much ! I had one heck of a time trying to get the springs off. I really didn't want to use side cutters, since they could damage the springs, but that was the only tool that actually worked. Also, even though I have done many drum brake jobs, your technique made this job allot easier.
Hi, good videos, these were a big help - look here folks, if you have a Hyundai Matrix then there's a good chance the rear brakes are EXACTLY THE SAME as in this video, certainly the ones on my 2003 1.5 diesel Matrix are the same. Personally I also preferred to use needle nose pliers on the springs (as an electrician I only like to put cutting blades on things I mean to cut), also you can easily get the hold down springs off with the needle nose pliers which means you don't need the special tool. Cheers dude.
Thanx for the vid - but leaving out the adjuster step made this almost an impossible job as this was my very first time replacing rear brakes. You skipped that whole thing. After messing around with the whole assembly I FINALLY figured out that you have to turn the little gear to cinch it inward in order for the brake shoes to fit in their proper place - so the cover can slide back on. Also made getting that one horizontal spring a bit easier to put back on. Lessons learned.
To get the drum off you can use the tool you have for your jack, just wiggle it in there and go around the drum break with it (make sure your E-break is off) and then once it’s loose enough you’ll be able to wiggle it off with your hands
My other top tip would be wind the star wheel adjuster all the way in before fitting it, because then you don't have to stretch the top spring so far to get it in (that being the hellishly fiddly bit). And then when finished wind the star wheel out to where you need it to be with a screwdriver as shown.
Great Job!!!! This is do it yourself in your garage.Some of the comments on personal protective equipment and job hazard analysis should just take it to your dealer. That way you will be safe.
We bought a 2020 Hyundai elantra and i was shocked to see it has rear drum brakes… lol last time i seen that was on my 1998 honda civic in college! Honetly tho, drum brakes are just as simple to work on and the shoes last twice as long than any pad… and rear brakes only have about 30% of the stopping power. They just don’t look quite as snappy
My 2005 right rear wheel is making subtle (not too loud) squeaky noise when hit brake, not metal grinding noise. I haven't removed the wheel yet. Could it be rear brake pads are bad (but it doesn't sound like it)? It could be that rear suspension system is getting rustic. I replaced front brakes today. I plan to remove the rear rotors and see more inside. Any advise?
My elantra does not have threaded holes to push off rear drums. I have taken out the screw that holds it in place for assembly line and beat the crap out of drum to no avail. Any suggestions other than heat?
Hi, I was wondering what type of brake spring tool works best for an '05 hyundai elantra. The one I bought is terrible and I'm having a hell of a time with the brake springs on this car,
Great video. I have a question for you. I am going to replace rear drum brakes for m 03 Elantra. I measured the inside diameter of the drum and it was exactly 8", which is the maximum allowed. In this case, do I need to buy new drum or can I still use the old drum? I would appreciate your opinion.
25.4 MM is 1 Inch. Drum inside Diameter 205.2MM or 8.078 Inches. Meaning that you still have nearly 1/10 (1 tenth) of an inch of usable material before it goes out of spec. That's actually quite a bit. The drum should still be serviceable provided it does not have any unusual wear. Out of round, heavy rusting, tapering or hot spots, deep scratches or cracking for example are times where they are basically ruined. I do not recommend turning front brake rotors at all, but you can have the drums resurfaced with less issue because rear drums don't get near as hot as front rotors. They might take 3-5 thousands out of them. (.003-.005) which leaves you with tons of meat left in the drum. Drums for the Elantra are pretty inexpensive. Turning drums is around 10 bucks each, and new ones are $20-35.00 tops. Turning reduces the life expectancy of the drums slightly, but there is also time you have to wait to have them done, and finding a place to do the work. Id almost say replace the pair from a good auto parts store while you are in there if you have over 120K on the originals and replace all the brake hardware while you are at it. Also very reasonably priced. Hope this helps!
Thanks so much for your kind advice. Now I replaced rear brake and drum and my parking brake is very loose. I tightened the cable nut under the armrest, but my parking brake is still very loose. I don't think the cable was broken. What do I have to check?
Daniel Lee Ouch.. Well, the adjustment under the arm rest was likely not to be needed. Cables stretch in time, particularly if you use them alot. But, rarely to do have to do a readjustment there. Typically, what happens with rear drum brakes is the adjustment "star wheel" needs to be adjusted out till the shoes "just touch" the inside of the drum. so you might have to make this adjustment several times before its doing that. Basically, what I do, is adjust the wheel until you cant slide the drum back on. Back it off until it does slide on, then back it off to the point where you barely hear the shoes making contact with the drum when being turned by hand (the drum installed) and a light "swish" sound will be heard. If its very heavy sounding, and hard to turn, its a little too tight yet. Once you have it there, the brake adjusters are self adjusting, and only work when the vehicle is stopping in REVERSE or backing up. The "star wheel" will click on the adjuster and automatically find the final position to stop in. You will likely have to reset your cable at the handbrake.. and the rule of thumb is you should be able to hear 5-10 clicks and it get progressively tighter on each click. A service manual will say for sure, but most fall under 5-10. Hope this helps!
I just left for inspection. They wanted $140 for a brake replacement. When pads cost only $20. Getting ready to swap my pads and go get my inspection. But these are drum brakes...lil different than pads
I have the Hyundai elantra GLS 2006 4 door sedan..and my rear brake hub removal is completely different than what you show...My hayes repair manual says to removel the middle locking nut and the rear hub should slide off....Do you have a video showing my car's rear hub removal so i can complete a rear brake job..thanks sean
32MM AFAIK you can rent one from your local automotive store, or just drop the $$ and purchase it (it'll pay for itself several times over the course of your lifetime)
Replaced the shoes and drums in the rear following these instructions, but now there is a clapping noise that occurs when the brake is applied. Sounds like its coming from the drivers side. Any idea? I've replaced with new drums thinking it was warped and I've rebuilt the brakes again and again.
You don't use wire snips to get hold of the springs..you will have made a small incision in the metal which will be a fail point......pointed pliers next time!
This process doesn't work on 2001 accents as they have a smaller drum and so the special tool doesn't fit onto the clip. The only option is to completely remove the hub assembly. That proves to be a pain.
I replaced the rear brakes on my 02 Elantra this morining. This video is not for my car. To remove the rear drum us have to remove the spindle nut un der the domed cap in the center of the drum.
Yeah now I'm stuck here on the road simple job waiting for you to put it back together again and now I have to sign up for part two so I'm stuck here with all these pieces trying to figure out how to put the damn thing back together again no no one has the time to sit here and Dodge cars in the road and everything when you're broken down I need to know how to put the s*** back but once again everybody's in it for the money now I'm totally screwed trying to figure this out
the threaded hole is the countersunk hole you took the little screw out of. The countersink leaves very little steel to thread, but there are enough threads. At a glance it appears there is no thread, but there is.
@glorius nope, you dont. find the starwheel and turn it back in, so the shoes move backwards and you simply take off the drum by hand. THEN, and only THEN you might use a hammer if the drum still wont move.
One time it was my first car I was naive and dumb this is embarrassing to say but my brakes were squeaking and let me tell you I didn’t want to say oh change it because my parents would have gotten mad at me for driving so much (I would sneak out at night just to drive around I love driving) and so I just ignored it and one day I was getting off an interstate exit and the brakes had worn down so much that they actually basically wore down to nothing all of the brake fluid was leaked out I had no brakes there was multiple cars lucky there was an opening for the right turn on the exit so I took the right turn I dodged about 3 cars at 55 mph and turned right harder than a nascar driver tires squealing I actually had to give it a bit of gas just to not lose traction the E brake had already been bad too because the car was just old as hell (1993 Jetta) and man I thought I was a goner I almost actually drove into a ditch on my right to protect the general public from my vehicular death machine but I saw an opening I took it and I kept taking right turns shifted the gears down and eventually turned onto another right turn which was an uphill street where I cut the car off while in 1st gear intentionally just so I could stop… when I stopped my heart was pounding so hard I seriously can’t believe I dodged so many cars that fast. Now I check my brakes every 10k miles needless to say and if you hear a squeak (if it’s a cold start and it squeaks but the squeak goes away after a bit of braking then it’s okay) stop what your doing and check those brakes I got lucky but I got probably 6 inches away from rear ending someone stopped going 55 mph and I almost t boned a minivan.. thank heavens that didn’t happen! Learn from me! It could just be a flake of metal causing the squeak but just check it anyways! Brakes are designed to squeak when they are bad but it’s still good to check at most every 20k miles max
come on lol that was the hardest take the bearing nut of hit wheel left and right hand side hey presto 100% nothink in the way i do this to all rear drums and have done for years
Awesome videos. I've rebuilt engines, replaced clutches, replaced transmissions, axles... you name it. But I've never replaced drum brakes on a car. Always had a bit of trepidation about it lol. Love these videos as they pertain exactly to my car.
I fear drum brakes too. I’ve done them before but dread doing them.
For a young guy, your how to video was so much more to the point and well explained than most videos out there by guys who had been turning wrenches as long as myself!!! I love those young men still willing to get in their, het their hands dirty, and do things themselves,,, instead of watching them sit behind a keyboard all day and have absolutely no street smarts what so ever! I don't know you personally, but in a sense I was proud of you as if I did, while watching this video! Maybe a bit because you look like a friend of my son's,who is a great kid too! Thank you for sharing this how too with us all, and I look forward to seeing more!! I don't actuallu do that 'subscribe' thing everyone asks for,, but you got one from me!!
Thank you so much ! I had one heck of a time trying to get the springs off. I really didn't want to use side cutters, since they could damage the springs, but that was the only tool that actually worked. Also, even though I have done many drum brake jobs, your technique made this job allot easier.
Thanks so much! Needed a refresher on drum brakes! Seems the majority of vids on the 2005 hyundai elantra have disk brakes...
Big help man! I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Had the wheel cylinder replaced in no time!
Hi, good videos, these were a big help - look here folks, if you have a Hyundai Matrix then there's a good chance the rear brakes are EXACTLY THE SAME as in this video, certainly the ones on my 2003 1.5 diesel Matrix are the same. Personally I also preferred to use needle nose pliers on the springs (as an electrician I only like to put cutting blades on things I mean to cut), also you can easily get the hold down springs off with the needle nose pliers which means you don't need the special tool. Cheers dude.
i used your 12mm bolt trick, worked like a charm, thought I had to adjust the brakes to get the drum off, but the 12mm bold did the trick.
The top spring is way easier to remove if you unwind the adjusting screw,great video it helped me a lot .
Thanx for the vid - but leaving out the adjuster step made this almost an impossible job as this was my very first time replacing rear brakes. You skipped that whole thing. After messing around with the whole assembly I FINALLY figured out that you have to turn the little gear to cinch it inward in order for the brake shoes to fit in their proper place - so the cover can slide back on. Also made getting that one horizontal spring a bit easier to put back on. Lessons learned.
The 12mm bolt trick helped on my 2010 hyundai accent! Thanks!
Mine snapped while trying to get it out 😭
Replaced my 2002 drum brakes yesterday. Your video made it a
Great instructional video! Never replaced shoes before and managed to get done in around 30 minutes per side. Thanks!!
Great job thanks so much for making this video. Helped me out huge.
Was about to subscribe... But your POES man! I want to see how you got the drum off! That's why I searched for it in the first place!
To get the drum off you can use the tool you have for your jack, just wiggle it in there and go around the drum break with it (make sure your E-break is off) and then once it’s loose enough you’ll be able to wiggle it off with your hands
My other top tip would be wind the star wheel adjuster all the way in before fitting it, because then you don't have to stretch the top spring so far to get it in (that being the hellishly fiddly bit). And then when finished wind the star wheel out to where you need it to be with a screwdriver as shown.
Life saver for working on my girlfriends car, her drums are so much different than my jeeps
Great Job!!!! This is do it yourself in your garage.Some of the comments on personal protective equipment and job hazard analysis should just take it to your dealer. That way you will be safe.
I have a bad hub bearing. I got a new assembly but I gave it everything I had on a breaker bar and couldn’t get the nut loose. Any tips????
great video, thank you for uploading it, very helpful....
We bought a 2020 Hyundai elantra and i was shocked to see it has rear drum brakes… lol last time i seen that was on my 1998 honda civic in college! Honetly tho, drum brakes are just as simple to work on and the shoes last twice as long than any pad… and rear brakes only have about 30% of the stopping power. They just don’t look quite as snappy
You can also get a bolt off of the little clip that holds the e-brake cable to the trailing arm. For popping off the drum
My 2005 right rear wheel is making subtle (not too loud) squeaky noise when hit brake, not metal grinding noise. I haven't removed the wheel yet. Could it be rear brake pads are bad (but it doesn't sound like it)? It could be that rear suspension system is getting rustic.
I replaced front brakes today. I plan to remove the rear rotors and see more inside.
Any advise?
Thank you
This was very helpful
Tks for this video I changed mine....but the harder thing it was the second spring to make it in place :(. . But so far so good I made too.
My elantra does not have threaded holes to push off rear drums. I have taken out the screw that holds it in place for assembly line and beat the crap out of drum to no avail. Any suggestions other than heat?
Great video! thank you! much better than your first one where you couldn't see much!!
Hi, I was wondering what type of brake spring tool works best for an '05 hyundai elantra. The one I bought is terrible and I'm having a hell of a time with the brake springs on this car,
What is the name of the special tool ? I'm trying to learn to replace asap
Oh great! What am I suppose to with the 12mm bolt since you skipped that part?
You put the screw into hole and ratchet it into the drum, that way the force of the screw pushes against the rotor to pull the drum hub off.
What if you don’t have that special tool? Can you use wd40 as break cleaner?
Is it the same drum brake system on 2018 Hyundai Elantra? MY18+ Hyundai reverted back to drum brake system....
To remove the broken wheel stud bolts do i have to remove the shoe and breaks ?
Do not use just an hydraulic jack. Use Jack Stands and on a firm surface. Also use eye protection when mucking with brake springs.
T
Great video. I have a question for you. I am going to replace rear drum brakes for m 03 Elantra. I measured the inside diameter of the drum and it was exactly 8", which is the maximum allowed. In this case, do I need to buy new drum or can I still use the old drum? I would appreciate your opinion.
25.4 MM is 1 Inch.
Drum inside Diameter 205.2MM or 8.078 Inches.
Meaning that you still have nearly 1/10 (1 tenth) of an inch of usable material before it goes out of spec.
That's actually quite a bit.
The drum should still be serviceable provided it does not have any unusual wear.
Out of round, heavy rusting, tapering or hot spots, deep scratches or cracking for example are times where they are basically ruined.
I do not recommend turning front brake rotors at all, but you can have the drums resurfaced with less issue because rear drums don't get near as hot as front rotors.
They might take 3-5 thousands out of them. (.003-.005) which leaves you with tons of meat left in the drum.
Drums for the Elantra are pretty inexpensive.
Turning drums is around 10 bucks each, and new ones are $20-35.00 tops.
Turning reduces the life expectancy of the drums slightly, but there is also time you have to wait to have them done, and finding a place to do the work.
Id almost say replace the pair from a good auto parts store while you are in there if you have over 120K on the originals and replace all the brake hardware while you are at it.
Also very reasonably priced.
Hope this helps!
Thanks so much for your kind advice. Now I replaced rear brake and drum and my parking brake is very loose. I tightened the cable nut under the armrest, but my parking brake is still very loose. I don't think the cable was broken. What do I have to check?
Daniel Lee Ouch.. Well, the adjustment under the arm rest was likely not to be needed. Cables stretch in time, particularly if you use them alot. But, rarely to do have to do a readjustment there. Typically, what happens with rear drum brakes is the adjustment "star wheel" needs to be adjusted out till the shoes "just touch" the inside of the drum. so you might have to make this adjustment several times before its doing that. Basically, what I do, is adjust the wheel until you cant slide the drum back on. Back it off until it does slide on, then back it off to the point where you barely hear the shoes making contact with the drum when being turned by hand (the drum installed) and a light "swish" sound will be heard. If its very heavy sounding, and hard to turn, its a little too tight yet. Once you have it there, the brake adjusters are self adjusting, and only work when the vehicle is stopping in REVERSE or backing up. The "star wheel" will click on the adjuster and automatically find the final position to stop in. You will likely have to reset your cable at the handbrake.. and the rule of thumb is you should be able to hear 5-10 clicks and it get progressively tighter on each click. A service manual will say for sure, but most fall under 5-10. Hope this helps!
Great vid. Easy to follow walk through. Made changing my shoes cake. Thanks bud
you can always use regular tap water to wash your brake parts, the way a profesional brake shop will do it son 👌
Thanks for your help!
You can also use cheap plastic clamps to hold the shoes in position so you can use both hands to secure the clips
What is the name of the tool you used to unlock the pads with the red trim.
You convinced me to take my car to Midas
Yup, he convinced too, screw drum brakes!
I just left for inspection. They wanted $140 for a brake replacement. When pads cost only $20. Getting ready to swap my pads and go get my inspection. But these are drum brakes...lil different than pads
I have the Hyundai elantra GLS 2006 4 door sedan..and my rear brake hub removal is completely different than what you show...My hayes repair manual says to removel the middle locking nut and the rear hub should slide off....Do you have a video showing my car's rear hub removal so i can complete a rear brake job..thanks sean
+Sean Garcia Hey Sean - Do you know the size of that nut? I need a socket for it, but dont know the size. Thanks.
32MM AFAIK you can rent one from your local automotive store, or just drop the $$ and purchase it (it'll pay for itself several times over the course of your lifetime)
The head of the bolt maybe 12mm, but you're supposed to measure the thickness of the stud of the bolt for reference.
Thanks so much for making this!
What size brake lines are on the elantras? And what type of bubble
I have noise coming from rear brake(s) when I press my brake pedal..time to replace brake pads maybe?
Simple Living yes
link to your other vid you mentioned would be good
How did you get the screw out on the drum
One thing i cant understand is why do you manually adjust the handbrake adjuster by taking the wheel on and off .I thought this adjusted automatically
What if you don't have the special tool to take those small screws/springs ?
Needle nose pliers... Prepare to be fustrated
What's the name/brand of the "special tool" ? Thank you
@@Worldkeepers just look for brake spring tool on Amazon
@@newfieingenuity Thank you
Replaced the shoes and drums in the rear following these instructions, but now there is a clapping noise that occurs when the brake is applied. Sounds like its coming from the drivers side. Any idea? I've replaced with new drums thinking it was warped and I've rebuilt the brakes again and again.
@President Moose needed new springs too. 😂
Mr ciraulo! I’m in your 3rd period math class 2019!
ua-cam.com/video/KLLa9zXpzHI/v-deo.html
What is the name of the tool you used to take off the springs ?
Great video
thanks very useful. God bless you and your family
You don't use wire snips to get hold of the springs..you will have made a small incision in the metal which will be a fail point......pointed pliers next time!
This process doesn't work on 2001 accents as they have a smaller drum and so the special tool doesn't fit onto the clip.
The only option is to completely remove the hub assembly.
That proves to be a pain.
Before I get started what is the special break tool you used and where can I get one at? Thanks
www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-brake-spring-pliers-kit-97804.html
Which is the link to find the 12mm bulbs????
is this the same for the 2001 jaundice accent?
Thank you👍
what is the name of that special tool you used and where can i buy one?
www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-brake-spring-pliers-kit-97804.html
I can't get cover back on drum I did everything as instructed and adjuster is the whole way in
I replaced the rear brakes on my 02 Elantra this morining. This video is not for my car. To remove the rear drum us have to remove the spindle nut un der the domed cap in the center of the drum.
Uhh, maybe using wire cutters instead of pliers on wires isn't the best method. Thx for the video though!
my gfs have Hyundai accent 2002 can i use this guide to do it
I m unable to open the fluid pipe from break cylinder due to corrosion plz help me to open
Yeah now I'm stuck here on the road simple job waiting for you to put it back together again and now I have to sign up for part two so I'm stuck here with all these pieces trying to figure out how to put the damn thing back together again no no one has the time to sit here and Dodge cars in the road and everything when you're broken down I need to know how to put the s*** back but once again everybody's in it for the money now I'm totally screwed trying to figure this out
Really helpful
I have a 2000 elantra is it the same
Good video made.
Didn't even mention the name of the special tool.
life saver, thank you
is this the same for a 99 elantra ? thats what i have
Is this the same as a 2002 Hyundai Accent?
Where is part 2?
My drum breaks are backwards on my 2002 hyundia from what the video shows, also the video did not show what to do with the e break cable.....
My drums do not have a threaded hole to screw in a 12mm bolt to pry the drum off.
the threaded hole is the countersunk hole you took the little screw out of. The countersink leaves very little steel to thread, but there are enough threads. At a glance it appears there is no thread, but there is.
What is the hub nut size on the rear hub of 2002 accent?
hyundai put that dam screw there so you have to take it to the shop because i cant get the dam thing out =(
Wot/mlp gaming (Stephen 90) you can drill the screws out it will not hurt anything
DAM !
Trash vod. What was the 12mm bolt isee for/on!?
You don’t take springs off with a side cutter.
Those screws don't exactly just screw out that easy.
You sound kinda like Elvis Presley I suppose
"Go ahead and ... " "Go ahead and ... " "Go ahead and ... " "Go ahead and ... " "Go ahead and ... " "Go ahead and ... " Give me a fucking break!
thxx you fixbook
I would take the wheel hub off.
You didnt show to remove pin
Dude ... you cut-out actually removing the drum .. WTF !
just smack it with a hammer
@glorius nope, you dont. find the starwheel and turn it back in, so the shoes move backwards and you simply take off the drum by hand. THEN, and only THEN you might use a hammer if the drum still wont move.
Good
is it just called a BRAKE SPRING TOOL?
www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-brake-spring-pliers-kit-97804.html
I dont see part 2 ugh
One time it was my first car I was naive and dumb this is embarrassing to say but my brakes were squeaking and let me tell you I didn’t want to say oh change it because my parents would have gotten mad at me for driving so much (I would sneak out at night just to drive around I love driving) and so I just ignored it and one day I was getting off an interstate exit and the brakes had worn down so much that they actually basically wore down to nothing all of the brake fluid was leaked out I had no brakes there was multiple cars lucky there was an opening for the right turn on the exit so I took the right turn I dodged about 3 cars at 55 mph and turned right harder than a nascar driver tires squealing I actually had to give it a bit of gas just to not lose traction the E brake had already been bad too because the car was just old as hell (1993 Jetta) and man I thought I was a goner I almost actually drove into a ditch on my right to protect the general public from my vehicular death machine but I saw an opening I took it and I kept taking right turns shifted the gears down and eventually turned onto another right turn which was an uphill street where I cut the car off while in 1st gear intentionally just so I could stop… when I stopped my heart was pounding so hard I seriously can’t believe I dodged so many cars that fast. Now I check my brakes every 10k miles needless to say and if you hear a squeak (if it’s a cold start and it squeaks but the squeak goes away after a bit of braking then it’s okay) stop what your doing and check those brakes I got lucky but I got probably 6 inches away from rear ending someone stopped going 55 mph and I almost t boned a minivan.. thank heavens that didn’t happen! Learn from me! It could just be a flake of metal causing the squeak but just check it anyways! Brakes are designed to squeak when they are bad but it’s still good to check at most every 20k miles max
come on lol that was the hardest take the bearing nut of hit wheel left and right hand side hey presto 100% nothink in the way i do this to all rear drums and have done for years
I wouldn’t use wire cutters as pliers
Drum brakes are the work of the devil.
Hahaha
Lol i have the same car and the same color :)
Where the fuck is part two
Short job
incredibly stupid using snips as pliers dude
Drum brakes suck.