Thanks a lot for this video. It helped me fixing more than one issue in my VH-11 that I had been living with for quite a while. Based on your tutorial I was able to figure out what was wrong with mine and fix it with some simple home materials, thanks a lot.
Thank you! This fix was perfect. I was having the same symptoms... the VH-11 closure seemed to jump around dramatically, especially if my left foot was bopping on the hi hat pedal to keep time. The video shows the problem using Superior Drummer software, but you can see it on the module as well, go into trigger settings and display your hi hat monitor. Push the black rod up and down on the control and you can see it going smoothly from 0 to 127, oh then JUMP back to zero, JUMP up to 127 again, etc. that would lead to annoying unwanted triggers. I took it apart and yes, the old foam piece was worn down from years of the wheel wearing on it, practically to nothing. So, as I say this fix worked perfectly. As other people pointed out you don't need to take the electronics out, you can just peel that little foam thing off the steel backing plate with a pair of tweezers and it comes right off cleanly. I didn't use superglue, I just used two sided Scotch tape because I was afraid of a permanent solution... if it doesn't hold then I'll use something stronger. An old bicycle inner tube is the perfect material, I used a slightly thicker rubber first (the shim that comes with a bicycle light) but that didn't work as well. Just use an old inner tube. I wasn't too fussy about the measurements, I just cut something roughly the same size as what was there before and put it in roughly the same place, and it worked great! This old Roland gear isn't all that scary to fix yourself. Good luck!
Ey Tobi Here Ruud, from Holland. I also experienced triggerproblems with my VH11 on a TD9-brain. My hihat was triggering randomly while playing. It got worse and worse, and finally it sounded as if a small scorpion went crazy in my left sneaker. I did get some compliments for inventing really original rythms, but in all honesty: it was not wat I was aiming for. Then I found your video. I followed the steps closely, used some additional tips from the comments along the way, and now it functions as new again. So compliments for this clear instruction, and thanx a lot. Great help.
Many thanks for your video! I have changed this rubber part and now it works again perfectly. New Motion sensor cost about 100 EUR, so you saved my money, bro!
Great Tutorial: I did a Quick Fix. I left the metalplate in place and just scratched the old rubber pad and the underlying adhesive strip off the metal plate. Then I cut the new rubber piece out of an old bike tube, put some double sided adhesive tape on it and put it into place with a help of a tweezer. works great again!
Worked great! My only mod was to use some acetone to carefully strip off the foam tape on the back of the metal plate, then use a few drops of superglue to reattach it. This reduced the overall thickness a tiny bit, which compensated for the rubber adding a bit of thickness. Also I recommend gently wiping the rubber and the little wheel with alcohol to remove any dust or grime that may have accumulated. Thanks for making this video!
This is AWESOME, I have just discovered your channel a few minutes ago and just after that noticed something weird in my VH11 while playing. And now the UA-cam algorithm sent me here which I totally think is my problem. Thank you Tobi!
Great job! It helped to fix my vh11 controller :D 1 advice from me: 3:14 - you do not need to disassemble electronics - just pull out the wire and thats enough :) I used 2-sided stickng tape.
Thank you so much for the detailed instructions! I disassembled my VH-10 after all. Its design is very similar, only it is disassembled from the bottom with three screws. The rubber band over the Roland sensor was changed, pasted translucent and quite hard, better than just black rubber, which can wear off over time.
Wow, I hope this works. I'm just about to go to my local bicycle shop to get some bicycle tube rubber & a tube of super glue. I'll let you know once I've done it. My VH-11 started playing up around 1 month after the warranty ran out (10 years ago) & I've just been putting up with it ever since. Sometimes it works without a problem, other times it drives me mad and I just use the ride cymbal instead of the hi hats. I'll keep you posted Tobi.
Hallo Gary! I hope it helps! Be careful when loosening the plate from the case! Do not damage the ribbon cable! Let me know if the bug is fixed! Keep on E Drumming! 😎
@@Tobi-qq8ud I got the ribbon cable off intact, I used a Stanley knife to separate the foam from the metal plate and pried it apart slowly with a flat headed jeweler's screwdriver. I cleaned the pulley wheel with metholated spirits because it was black from all the foam. I couldn't believe how soft the piece of foam was, no wonder it started perishing 1 month after my warranty ran out. It's like they built it to fail. Hopefully the bicycle tube rubber will last much, much longer. It works great no extra triggering's. My sanity is restored :-) Thanks so much Tobi.
@@Tobi-qq8ud I hope you don't mind, but I've shared the UA-cam video link with some Facebook drumming groups that I'm in? Hopefully if anybody else is experiencing the same problem, they'll be able to fix it also. Thanks again Tobi.
I see in the Superior Drummer 3 software here that the hi-hat shows 6 levels of open. Can you actually hear 6 levels of "openness" when you play through SD3? I have my VH11 on a TD-9 kit and only hear 4 levels in total, including fully closed. I've always wondered if the VH-11 could actually play differently - with finer control of openness- using better software.
HELP!!!! I have a Roland Td17 .. Everything plugged in correctly. But when I go to Setup and Calibrate. Nothing moves. Like the sensor is not working at all. Top plate i hear sounds. Rolands site says I should be able to have the sensor plugged in and go to calibrate, push in the spring-loaded top part, and see the line on the module move up and down .... NOTHING!! Not sure what to do
@@Tobi-qq8ud Thank you for posting this solution. It works. Only different thing i did was use rubber cement instead of superglue. My theory is that it will be easier to remove years up the road.
Thanks for this great video. One thing I'm not clear on: did you glue the new piece of rubber on top of the old one, or did you remove the old rubber piece first?
Hi, nice video! I have a question. It is not clear that the prepared rubber piece is glued onto the old foam or the foam has to be removed first and the new rubber is glued to the metal plate directly?
@@Tobi-qq8ud Thanks, it's done! Now my VH11 works perfectly again. Thanks again, I have been experiencing this problem of inconsistent working of my VH11 for a while and am very happy to find your great solution. It spared me a lot of money and was so simple to do... And I have almost forgotten that the music of the video is amazing! May I ask what it is?
Great video! My sensor is showing some early signs... will not mess with it until there is a real problem... but now I have a good tutorial if in need in the future! Questions: What program did you use on the diagnosis? Did you glued the rubber over the existing rubber? Thanks!!👍👍👍
Fixed mine a few minutes ago, I used a piece of silicon mat which could prove even better than a piece of rubber. We will see how it works with time, so far it is working smoother than before but I think my TD25 is not as good as Tobi's Superior Drummer software he uses as it is clearly more nuanced for playing the hi-hat than the native Roland TD-25. I will be considering upgrading in the future but Superior Drummer is a little too pricey for how much I use my drums for the time being. Thanks!
@@dave07drummer Unfortunately it’s been more time that I want to admit since I played my drums. So far as I recall they were working fine maybe a year ago and no I did not buy SD3 yet. I have been meaning to play since at least a couple of months but I have to tidy up a lot of stuff to be able to play the drums. I will see if I can do it this weekend and report back.
I read on a forum that Vh-11 uses an optical sensor but his is not the case. It looks like more of a membrane potensiometer with a wheel wiper. Is this correct?
Tobi, I have a problem with the calibration of my VH-11 , when I turn the adjustment nut at the top nothing happens, the cursor on the monitor does not move . therefore I cannot get the cursor nicely between the two triangles . do you know what this could be the problem? is it lying to the sensor or to the cymbal?
Hello Marc, it is possible. Because the adjustment nut is a fine adjustment of the hihat height. Check the motion sensor to see if the wheel is moving properly on the surface
@@Tobi-qq8ud thanks for the tips,well it did work so the hi hat's not making ghost notes it self anymore,but now it always have hihat open sound(i cant get the hihat closed sound) any suggestions?
@@jacobg9759 are you sure the spring is in the right slot so the wheel is under preasure? In my first assembly after repair that was my mistake too....maybe it helps you
The solution did not work for me. I expected it would since the original foam pad was depressed where the wheel rolled over it for years. My rubber tiretube dimensions were spot on, including thickness. When first plugging in HH CONTROL plug, I got intermittent hi hat close sounds but they disappeared. I am back to where I started, with a HH that has zero click/close sound as if I had only a top HH. Maybe the entire module has to be replaced at high cost ?
Hello! Are you sure that the spring is properly engaged? When I first reassembled it, the spring was not properly locked into place, it didn't work at first. The wheel was not pressed properly. I reassembled it correctly, then it worked fine. Try again! Otherwise there might really be another mistake. Hope it Helps ! Best regards...
@@Tobi-qq8ud Thanks for reply. I spent $155 and bought a NEW VH-11 bottom motion sensor module-- and it was a waste of money since it did not fix my problem. The problem is I have no "click" or no "close" sound. Only the top hat produces sound. Strange thing is when I plug in or remove plug from sensor module, I hear the HH click sound, but using my HH pedal or even pushing up down on the module plunger, I get no HH close/click sound. I switched cables. They're good. Money down the drain. Have no idea what is wrong. Same symptoms with the NEW or OLD module. So WTF?
Great video, very helpful!! Quick question: My VH-11 controller sounds too much when the sensor moves up and hits the upper section of it. It’s very annoying, specially in the midnight when everybody are sleeping and I play something(Recording primarly). I searched the internet for information, but nothing comes up, except this video. Do you think there is a way to cushioning/dampening the sensor in order to reduce that noise? Thanks!
Hallo Pablo! I'm not really sure what you mean can the sensor be loud when it hits the upper limit? You can perhaps glue a thin rubber ring to the contact surface of the moving part of the sensor. See minute 2:46 in the video. Just try!
I slightly reduced the click noise when the pedal was fully opened by wearing a silicone ring (a gasket from a water ball valve with a diameter of ~ 21mm) on a plastic cone, which is located inside the housing dressed on a steel tube. It bumped against the plastic case when opened and made a click. It became almost a noise almost inaudible.
You should also give a shout out to the Drumless Backing Tracks channel for supplying the music. As I was watching the repair video I wondered "where have I heard that before?" Oh yes, I've played along to it! ua-cam.com/video/IauP4N_dh74/v-deo.html
Thanks a lot for this video. It helped me fixing more than one issue in my VH-11 that I had been living with for quite a while. Based on your tutorial I was able to figure out what was wrong with mine and fix it with some simple home materials, thanks a lot.
Before watching this video I wanted to buy a new sensor, so I saved $100 by following the steps in the tutorial. Thank you!
Thank you! This fix was perfect.
I was having the same symptoms... the VH-11 closure seemed to jump around dramatically, especially if my left foot was bopping on the hi hat pedal to keep time.
The video shows the problem using Superior Drummer software, but you can see it on the module as well, go into trigger settings and display your hi hat monitor. Push the black rod up and down on the control and you can see it going smoothly from 0 to 127, oh then JUMP back to zero, JUMP up to 127 again, etc. that would lead to annoying unwanted triggers.
I took it apart and yes, the old foam piece was worn down from years of the wheel wearing on it, practically to nothing. So, as I say this fix worked perfectly. As other people pointed out you don't need to take the electronics out, you can just peel that little foam thing off the steel backing plate with a pair of tweezers and it comes right off cleanly. I didn't use superglue, I just used two sided Scotch tape because I was afraid of a permanent solution... if it doesn't hold then I'll use something stronger. An old bicycle inner tube is the perfect material, I used a slightly thicker rubber first (the shim that comes with a bicycle light) but that didn't work as well. Just use an old inner tube. I wasn't too fussy about the measurements, I just cut something roughly the same size as what was there before and put it in roughly the same place, and it worked great!
This old Roland gear isn't all that scary to fix yourself. Good luck!
Glad i could help!🥁
Ey Tobi
Here Ruud, from Holland.
I also experienced triggerproblems with my VH11 on a TD9-brain. My hihat was triggering randomly while playing. It got worse and worse, and finally it sounded as if a small scorpion went crazy in my left sneaker.
I did get some compliments for inventing really original rythms, but in all honesty: it was not wat I was aiming for.
Then I found your video. I followed the steps closely, used some additional tips from the comments along the way, and now it functions as new again.
So compliments for this clear instruction, and thanx a lot. Great help.
Glad I could help!
Many thanks for your video! I have changed this rubber part and now it works again perfectly. New Motion sensor cost about 100 EUR, so you saved my money, bro!
Yeah! Keep on drummin'
Great Tutorial: I did a Quick Fix. I left the metalplate in place and just scratched the old rubber pad and the underlying adhesive strip off the metal plate. Then I cut the new rubber piece out of an old bike tube, put some double sided adhesive tape on it and put it into place with a help of a tweezer. works great again!
Brilliant! I used tube that was too thick initially, got it right second time around! Far more helpful than Roland's technical department. Thanks
I'm happy that I could help!
Worked great! My only mod was to use some acetone to carefully strip off the foam tape on the back of the metal plate, then use a few drops of superglue to reattach it. This reduced the overall thickness a tiny bit, which compensated for the rubber adding a bit of thickness. Also I recommend gently wiping the rubber and the little wheel with alcohol to remove any dust or grime that may have accumulated. Thanks for making this video!
This is AWESOME, I have just discovered your channel a few minutes ago and just after that noticed something weird in my VH11 while playing. And now the UA-cam algorithm sent me here which I totally think is my problem. Thank you Tobi!
Glad, that i could help !
Great job! It helped to fix my vh11 controller :D
1 advice from me: 3:14 - you do not need to disassemble electronics - just pull out the wire and thats enough :)
I used 2-sided stickng tape.
Thanks for your comment! Yes i think you are right. I disamble it for the first time, so i have to learn about it
Did you use two sided tape in lieu of the rubber? 😊
Thank you so much for the detailed instructions! I disassembled my VH-10 after all. Its design is very similar, only it is disassembled from the bottom with three screws. The rubber band over the Roland sensor was changed, pasted translucent and quite hard, better than just black rubber, which can wear off over time.
Hi, thanks for your method. I did the same as you and i can say my 15 years old vh11 controler is new again. Very helpful.
Glad i could help!
Wow, I hope this works. I'm just about to go to my local bicycle shop to get some bicycle tube rubber & a tube of super glue. I'll let you know once I've done it. My VH-11 started playing up around 1 month after the warranty ran out (10 years ago) & I've just been putting up with it ever since. Sometimes it works without a problem, other times it drives me mad and I just use the ride cymbal instead of the hi hats. I'll keep you posted Tobi.
Hallo Gary! I hope it helps! Be careful when loosening the plate from the case! Do not damage the ribbon cable! Let me know if the bug is fixed!
Keep on E Drumming! 😎
@@Tobi-qq8ud I got the ribbon cable off intact, I used a Stanley knife to separate the foam from the metal plate and pried it apart slowly with a flat headed jeweler's screwdriver. I cleaned the pulley wheel with metholated spirits because it was black from all the foam. I couldn't believe how soft the piece of foam was, no wonder it started perishing 1 month after my warranty ran out. It's like they built it to fail. Hopefully the bicycle tube rubber will last much, much longer. It works great no extra triggering's. My sanity is restored :-) Thanks so much Tobi.
@@garye4678 Hallo Gary, glad i could help!
@@Tobi-qq8ud I hope you don't mind, but I've shared the UA-cam video link with some Facebook drumming groups that I'm in? Hopefully if anybody else is experiencing the same problem, they'll be able to fix it also. Thanks again Tobi.
I see in the Superior Drummer 3 software here that the hi-hat shows 6 levels of open. Can you actually hear 6 levels of "openness" when you play through SD3? I have my VH11 on a TD-9 kit and only hear 4 levels in total, including fully closed. I've always wondered if the VH-11 could actually play differently - with finer control of openness- using better software.
Thanks SO much. It fixed my CH11 problem!
Glad i could help!
Very helpful tutorial. My controller is working like a dream again! Thanks so much!
Thank you! For your comment! 💪.
HELP!!!! I have a Roland Td17 .. Everything plugged in correctly. But when I go to Setup and Calibrate. Nothing moves. Like the sensor is not working at all. Top plate i hear sounds. Rolands site says I should be able to have the sensor plugged in and go to calibrate, push in the spring-loaded top part, and see the line on the module move up and down .... NOTHING!!
Not sure what to do
What sort of brand glue would you recomend?
I think you can use any branded superglue
@@Tobi-qq8ud cool
@@Tobi-qq8ud Thank you for posting this solution. It works. Only different thing i did was use rubber cement instead of superglue. My theory is that it will be easier to remove years up the road.
Thanks so much dude just fixed my hats with you suggestion. You just dated me £350 uk your a star thanks 🙏👏👏👍
Hey! Thanks for your Comment and....Rock On!
Thanks for this great video. One thing I'm not clear on: did you glue the new piece of rubber on top of the old one, or did you remove the old rubber piece first?
Remove the old rubber first!
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS IDEA
hopefully it fixes my problem
The sponge on mine is all damaged by the wheel so I hope it hasn’t damaged the sensor.
if the sponge is damaged im sure it will work after fixing
A buddy is having this same issue. I will try this fix and report back. Thank you!
Fine! Hope it works!
Yeah, worked like a charm! Thanks!!!
Hi, nice video! I have a question. It is not clear that the prepared rubber piece is glued onto the old foam or the foam has to be removed first and the new rubber is glued to the metal plate directly?
Hi, the old Rubber has to removed first.
Clean the Metal from the old glue , than you can glue the new rubber piece with super glue.
Hope it helps
@@Tobi-qq8ud Thanks, it's done! Now my VH11 works perfectly again. Thanks again, I have been experiencing this problem of inconsistent working of my VH11 for a while and am very happy to find your great solution. It spared me a lot of money and was so simple to do... And I have almost forgotten that the music of the video is amazing! May I ask what it is?
The Music is a Drumless Playalong. The Drums are performed by me with Superior Drummer 3
Thank you very much. I was having this issue, problem solved 👍
Thank you! 🤘🤘Keep on Drumming
Great video!
My sensor is showing some early signs... will not mess with it until there is a real problem... but now I have a good tutorial if in need in the future!
Questions:
What program did you use on the diagnosis?
Did you glued the rubber over the existing rubber?
Thanks!!👍👍👍
I use Superior Drummer 3.
Thanks for your Comment!
The old Rubber has to bei removed first!
Fixed mine a few minutes ago, I used a piece of silicon mat which could prove even better than a piece of rubber. We will see how it works with time, so far it is working smoother than before but I think my TD25 is not as good as Tobi's Superior Drummer software he uses as it is clearly more nuanced for playing the hi-hat than the native Roland TD-25. I will be considering upgrading in the future but Superior Drummer is a little too pricey for how much I use my drums for the time being. Thanks!
just wondering if its still working? and have you got SD3 yet?
@@dave07drummer Unfortunately it’s been more time that I want to admit since I played my drums. So far as I recall they were working fine maybe a year ago and no I did not buy SD3 yet. I have been meaning to play since at least a couple of months but I have to tidy up a lot of stuff to be able to play the drums. I will see if I can do it this weekend and report back.
@@dave07drummerHi, I have checked it a couple of days ago and I am happy to report that is working as well as new. Hope this helps!
anyone have a problem with their hihat stand scraping the metal from the motion sensor? not sure how to fix
Nice job I need to do this to mine thanks so much for the instruction 🙏👍
I read on a forum that Vh-11 uses an optical sensor but his is not the case. It looks like more of a membrane potensiometer with a wheel wiper. Is this correct?
Yes, youre right. It is not an optical Sensor!
where i can find the type? mine was demaged when i was fixing the screws😢😢😢
Great stuff. Thanks for posting.
🔥
Love the tune, is it you're own? Sounds really cool.
Its a Drumless Track , the Drums are played by me with Superior Drummer 3
Tobi, I have a problem with the calibration of my VH-11 , when I turn the adjustment nut at the top nothing happens, the cursor on the monitor does not move .
therefore I cannot get the cursor nicely between the two triangles .
do you know what this could be the problem? is it lying to the sensor or to the cymbal?
Hello Marc, it is possible. Because the adjustment nut is a fine adjustment of the hihat height. Check the motion sensor to see if the wheel is moving properly on the surface
Tobi.
Hello, I'm from Chile.
What kind of glue did you use to stick the rubber?
Hallo to Chile !
I used Superglue
Thank You i,ll try this, What glue did you use?
I use super glue. Hope it works !
Super Tipp! Hat funktioniert und mir eine Menge Geld gespart! DANKE!!!
Das freut mich! Danke für deinen Kommentar!
Please tell me the name of the software you are using in the video. I have the sale problem.
Hallo Davide! Im using Superior Drummer 3.
What you see in the video ist the hihat calibration in the settings
Thanks,gonna try this in 2 days , hopefully its can be repaired like new one
Hope it works 🤘
@@Tobi-qq8ud thanks for the tips,well it did work so the hi hat's not making ghost notes it self anymore,but now it always have hihat open sound(i cant get the hihat closed sound) any suggestions?
@@jacobg9759 are you sure the spring is in the right slot so the wheel is under preasure? In my first assembly after repair that was my mistake too....maybe it helps you
@@Tobi-qq8ud gonna look for it,i think i put in the right way like u said in the video
Thank you! That was very helpful & rich in details :)
Thank you ! Hope it helps!
The solution did not work for me. I expected it would since the original foam pad was depressed where the wheel rolled over it for years. My rubber tiretube dimensions were spot on, including thickness. When first plugging in HH CONTROL plug, I got intermittent hi hat close sounds but they disappeared. I am back to where I started, with a HH that has zero click/close sound as if I had only a top HH. Maybe the entire module has to be replaced at high cost ?
Hello! Are you sure that the spring is properly engaged? When I first reassembled it, the spring was not properly locked into place, it didn't work at first. The wheel was not pressed properly.
I reassembled it correctly, then it worked fine.
Try again! Otherwise there might really be another mistake.
Hope it Helps ! Best regards...
@@Tobi-qq8ud Thanks for reply. I spent $155 and bought a NEW VH-11 bottom motion sensor module-- and it was a waste of money since it did not fix my problem. The problem is I have no "click" or no "close" sound. Only the top hat produces sound. Strange thing is when I plug in or remove plug from sensor module, I hear the HH click sound, but using my HH pedal or even pushing up down on the module plunger, I get no HH close/click sound. I switched cables. They're good. Money down the drain. Have no idea what is wrong. Same symptoms with the NEW or OLD module. So WTF?
@@Tobi-qq8ud I took it apart over 15 times and ensured the spring was locked in place. No click / close sound. Only top HAT working
@@bjhogans that's a shame, unfortunately I can't help, sorry
@@bjhogans did you resolve your problem? I would have thought it was either your cables, or the way you have it set up in the brain
What software are you using on the laptop please????
im using Superior Drummer3. A great Software
Great video, very helpful!!
Quick question: My VH-11 controller sounds too much when the sensor moves up and hits the upper section of it. It’s very annoying, specially in the midnight when everybody are sleeping and I play something(Recording primarly).
I searched the internet for information, but nothing comes up, except this video. Do you think there is a way to cushioning/dampening the sensor in order to reduce that noise?
Thanks!
Hallo Pablo! I'm not really sure what you mean can the sensor be loud when it hits the upper limit? You can perhaps glue a thin rubber ring to the contact surface of the moving part of the sensor. See minute 2:46 in the video. Just try!
You can check out the VDrum Tips. They have a video explaining this noise. Simple fix
I slightly reduced the click noise when the pedal was fully opened by wearing a silicone ring (a gasket from a water ball valve with a diameter of ~ 21mm) on a plastic cone, which is located inside the housing dressed on a steel tube. It bumped against the plastic case when opened and made a click. It became almost a noise almost inaudible.
WOW!!! Great Video 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Thanks ! Hope you enjoy my other Vids !
What is that music?
This is a drumless play along. The drum track is mine, played with my DIY drum which you can see in another video. I use Superior Drummer 3
this is gold
What software is it you are using for calibration?
Hi, i use Superior Drummer 3.
What you see is the"Midi settings"
Excellent.
Thank You !
Thank you. U save me.
Happy to help
Thank you!!!
Very Good!! tks
Thank you! Hope it helps!
Thanks Sr.!
You should also give a shout out to the Drumless Backing Tracks channel for supplying the music. As I was watching the repair video I wondered "where have I heard that before?" Oh yes, I've played along to it! ua-cam.com/video/IauP4N_dh74/v-deo.html
Great❤😅
Thanks !