Dealing with Old Cast Iron & Clay Pipes - Oak Porch Build
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Now the not so glamorous work starts. Dealing with old clay pipes or cast iron is always risky business, especially if you are trying to conserve it and retain the original stack. In the end I think it worked out fine and once all restored will be ready for another 100 years.
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#castiron #renovation #victorianrenovation
I cleaned up our cast iron soil pipe a couple of years ago with a flapper disc on an angle grinder. I can recommend this as the cast iron was in excellent condition underneath the many layers of old flaky paint. Take the time to restore 👍
Thanks for helping me out I couldn't figure out how to get a clearance away from the wall, as the old cast was right in the corner and rendered upto - total mess. The two offsets on top of the connector are going to be perfect
You were lucky getting the offset away from the branch as these joints are usually made with rope yarn packed into the joint then filled with molten lead. The lead is then staved when cooled, then topped up with putty and the joint painted. Lead played a big part in a plumbers world with all water pipes, waste and soil pipes being lead. The soil and waste pipe were also jointed into the stack by the same method with the lead pipe solder wiped onto a brass ferrule and the brass ferrule located into the cast facwcet. You may not know that PB is the chemical symbol for lead and operatics Cibo plumbum is the Latin for lead worker and that is where the modern name of plumber comes from. Keep up the excellent work I really do enjoy.
Yyuygggggg
Old video but what I'd love to know is did the pvc to clay connector that you used hold up well over the years? Typically I'd use a 6" to 4" rubber connector over the clay pipe end but I find myself in a situation where in order to get the shoe over the clay I need to break up quite a bit of concrete and that will likely break the clay anyway. Anyway, I'd love to know how the push connector worked for you in the long run :) Thanks!
So glad your putting the effort in retaining the cast iron! Hopefully people renovating a period property take note
Id have just used something like plumbers gold on the cast iron seating into the clay pipe and then encased it all in cement. If going to the trouble of removing pipe then might as well put in a roding/inspection point.
Very good video very clear and professional.
Nice work tim mate. Making it up as u go along haha I find that the best way
Cracking job, would personal go for the cast iron effect plastic as its a straight swap but if you can spare the time the cast iron will last longer, if you struggle with the rain water look for the cast iron effect stuff i use to make it for a company called polypipe and its not bad gear.
Hi Guys,
I work for Glynwed (now Saint Gobain PAM) who are a Cast Iron manufacturer for soil pipes. The plastic is typically 110MM and allows for connections between 109MM and 112MM, ence why the cast has fit in nicely! If you are still looking for a cast iron system, just let me know and i'm sure I can help you guys out! :)
Thanks for the info, that makes sense. I’m going to see how much of the cast stack, downpipes and guttering we can get blasted and restore but good option would be to replace with like for like. 👍
No problem at all, for a little mention of Saint Gobain PAM in the video and potentially joining you shortly while you are recording the install, I'm sure that we'll be able to support the project with a reasonably large discount.
I'm pretty sure that we are the same manufacturer as that stack too, Glynwed / Allied cast iron were the market leaders in cast drainage throughout the majority of the 19th century and manufactured in the UK.
If you guys were interested in seeing what it would cost, I would be more than happy to provide you with a quote.
Thanks for the response! 😊
the trouble with cast iron pipes they get rotten and they need a lot off maintenance enjoyed the video
|Cast iron pipes usually fail nearest the wall(difficult to paint back there and colder) then the leak can go undected for a long time, especially dodgy when the pipe is installed in a building corner as the thereby allowing the leak to gain access to joists etc inside
I think its mostly a problem with the pipes that were "spun" which allowed a thinner pipe wall but if you are concerned do some research
How did you manage to get the cast iron joints off ? Aren't they leaded in ? What's the adapter that fits from the plastic to the iron ? Cheers anyone ?
I have a similar situation but my pipe is in the kitchen. I’m yet to interrogate the leak but we have a leak down there for sure, as when someone has a bath etc damp builds up. I really hope I can do the same or similar fix. Great video 👍🏼
Does cast iron block more easily as it degrades inside?
Agree, have cast iron downpipes too on a 30s house. Definitely worth restoring and retaining, rather than replacing with PVCu downpipes -- contrary to the advice of a surveyor!
Great work btw -- are you trade professional or purely DIYer?
Great video as I might need to do that with my soil pipe.
Wire wheeling that stack, your dad really should of had eye protection on. Only saying as I've seen strands of wire brake off and embed in workmates face/arms. Take care 👍
i'm interested to see the concrete pour and how you cap off that open drain. great work and hope the weather is on your side !
putting plastic soil pipe on top cast iron is fine and putting plastic soil pipe under cast iron asking for trouble
I appreciate that bits of pipes repairs but I would like to see the below ground drainage connection of plastic manhole to a old existing clay pipe system underground connection
Fun one to watch!
2:14 - why is there a red glove seemingly hovering in mid air? 😂👍
Good spot. Just hanging on a pipe bracket so I wouldn’t catch my head on it.... again!
Michael Jackson missing glove?,
I just saw the same thing... had to check my label on my cider that I’m enjoying to see how much alcohol is really in it to make me see floating gloves lol
😂😂
hi, nice job i just bought one of those sleeves made my job far quicker screwfix sell them got it same day ,mine was broke further down but still managed to get to seal .seem like it was broke when the original muppet changed from asbestos too plastic been like since i moved here 16 years ago always noticed a smell coming from the joint now sorted :) also watched your vid on record coronet bandsaw very good saw anway keep up the good work and hope you and your family good luck .
The restoration couple could you please advice me as council not listening and lazy plumber feeding wrough information back
Here's a brilliant tip when removing cast iron soil pipe: have a magnet and a string as it's really easy to have shards of cast iron fall into the clay pipe.
Here's the quick way
1: carefully cut out a section at the bottom. Then COVER THE HOLE
2: The rest of the pipe can be removed bit by bit really easy with a breaker
3: to connect plastic soil pipe to clay you need something called a DC1 adaptor.
4: don't forget to use a spirit or laser level to make sure your new pipe is streight
Good morning, I have old cast iron pipe in my attic that vents my toilet. My question is to seal the pipe from air escaping what would you use without removing.
My problem is when my attic fan is on a sewer (septic) smell comes Thru the fan Louvre which is in my home on the ceiling and we smell the bathroom vent.
I’m thinking of going up to attic and taking some soap and water and spraying on pipe to see if there is bubbles. Then taking some plumbers putty and sealing the air leak.
What do you think?
Thanks John Houlihan
Good video. What the name of the plastic connector that fits into the clay pipe? I need one of those for my bathroom renovation. Cheers
FS Should be renamed how not to, talk about making a mountain out of a mole hill!!
Is there a video showing how you got a good seal on the roof round that pipe. We have the same cast iron waste and thought we would need to make space for the drainage to run inside the cavity wall and then back out at foundation level to get a good seal of lead on the roof ?
Great video - exactly what I need to do. What's that rubber sleeve part at 5:39 that looks like a witches hat (lol) called?
5:54 ah somebody else who leaves soiled nappies by the back door "with the best of intentions" 😂😂
Hi guys great job your doing, can't believe I've only just found your channel. I was wondering where you got the adaptor you use @ 4:30 because i have the same problem & can't seem to find that adaptor anywhere.
Toolstation have them
Coming along 🙃
Hi, what’s the name of the piece that you fitted in at around 5m30s? I really need one. Super helpful video.
Halloween 🎃 special @2:14 the ghostly floating glove 🤣.
Great video as always matey 👍🏻
Is that pvc cement you've used on the soil adapter part of the pipe that connects to the clay?
was the clay pipes salt glazed?
I would agree with not messing with cast iron too much. I decided to remove a section of mine and add in a water butt diverter. All went well until 2 days later I heard a loud bang in the middle of the night. Upon inspection the following day, the whole guttering from one side of the house had fallen down! Luck I wasn’t under it at the time or I wouldn’t be here to tell the tale. Got the whole lot replaced with plastic a few days later.
How is there a glove floating in mid air !! At 2:15 secs 😮 ??????
Great presentation and info; thank you; liked it very much. I didn't quite get the function of the rubber boot that was cut to fit the exterior of the plastic pipe and it was placed high up hovering over the door area? What is it's function?
I think it's to get rainwater flowing away easier, as their new roof is meant to reach that height.
There is one application for cast iron/clay into plastic: replacing bits of soil stack in something like a five-storey apartment building. Landlords are notoriously thrifty, so quite unlikely to replace the whole stack, especially as they're usually inside the house and plastered around in Austria, i.e. replacing a stack means ripping up any number of bathrooms and/or loos and upsetting tenants or freehold owners. I think the most common way of doing that if the diametre doesn't fit is a rubber boot with two huge hose clamps.
Unfortunately the same mentality of "Let's just replace the leaky bit!" also applies to lead supply pipes, which is why the majority of pre-WWI houses here have at least some bits of lead plumbing and considering the very soft water that's still a problem, even with the pipes over 100 years old. Joining them to copper or other materials is also a bit tricky and soldering lead seems to be a rapidly disappearing skill so joints leak quite often.
Thumbs up!
Should of ideally cut that elbow out and replaced it with a plastic fitting and rubber clay/plastic connector with jubilee clips.that fitting you used is essentially a toilet pan extender and not really designed to be underground,hence the fact it's grey and not red
Hi, As long as it's going in direction as the waste is going then it will be OK, We also point up around the plastic to the pot to form an extra seal.
Where did you get that part that went into the clay and what’s it called
Great video, I did a similar project on my little Victorian house recently again trying to preserve my cast iron soil pipe although i did have to excavate the pipe somewhat more. What I'm haven't done is restore my cast iron pipe have you got any advice on sanding, primers etc??
I plan to remove guttering and have it cleaned and painted off the house. Soil pipe will probably just need a few hours with a wire wheel and then paint. Not sure what paint I’m using yet though. Worth getting it right and taking time as you only want to do it once.
Your cast iron into plastic should be ok. I don't think it'd pass a pressure test, but water should follow path of least resistance and even if you had a small weep, a bit of clear sticks like should lock it in...not that I've ever needed to use that technique of course...😂
Great video as always! I noticed you mention you had a creeper going up you stone work, I’m laboriously removing a dead one from the front of my house at the moment using a wire brush, just wondered how you removed yours?
It was pulled off the week before we moved in but all the marks and feet remain. Next year when I do the roof I plan to clean all stonework and repoint. May be blast cleaned or just by hand, depends how stubborn it is when I get up there.
You will need to build a bridge each side of the drain so there is no weight over the grids or they may crack and brake which in time you will have to dig it out to repair it or in a worse case if you don’t see the leak you may have to re build the extension , I have been doing extensions all over the country for many years and all under ground pipe work should be bridged .
What do you mean by that... And how do you build a bridge...
Thanks
Old homes are definitely a can of worms that’s for sure!
What is that jelly like substance over the plastic to clay connector at 5:18? 😁
I would ask a second expert about capping that off as it could also mean no ventilation and moist stay under the slab that caps it off. Second you did so much with the pipe ( could have cheap fixed the hole) so why not a quality way for that drain?.
Your vent would be from the 4 inch drain all the way up connecting to the toilet and above the roof. I wouldn’t worry about capping of that gulley. Would be the same as capping of a pipe. Us as plumber do this all the time
Why retain the cast iron stack instead of just replacing the entire thing, won't that just leave you with future pro lens down the line???
Because the visible part was all restored and is part of the houses character. After all it’s basically like new after 120 years so will outlive any plastic replacement I would change it for.
At least your clay pipe is not compromised. The house I’m in right now is compromised at least to the sidewalk but we may have to dig into the main street outside of the house…
Since the clay elbow was busted already, why not get rid of all the cast iron?
It’s a very easy fix all you need to do is wiz the end off and put a rubber joint with two bands one on the clay pipe and one on the the elbow , very easy fix , your making work for your self and costing you money
No access on that soil pipe. I hope you have an accessible manhole at the other end of it.
Hi my tollet has a Claywaste pipe attached back of toilet..16 years old loo smells of gas sewer smell rotten eggs but noticed a brick clay pipe should coucil replace this help
They ignoring me
Whats that adapter called at 4:44 please ? Thanks
Where did you get the rubber boot roof seal ? I need one badly, can't find it anywhere. ..👍
Rubber for roofs. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple
Thanks ...👍
You can get one from Toolstation
@@amberwooddesignrichardwill7212
Thanks 👍
I understand you're restoring not replacing.
Just replacing the section within the porch. The plan is to retain all the original cast iron around the house and restore it all. 👍
I understand the idea here but it’s all wrong. You have added a further 2 bends and then reduced the line by 25m, that’s asking for trouble, a reducer in a foul line is a no no...
When the toilet is flushed, the paper will stick to the new bends and eventually block. The velocity of the fall from the WC will achieve this and won’t be flushed away with the water, trust me !
This junction (rest bend) is the most critical part of a SVP and should have been replaced accordingly with a new rest bend and band seal, saving you almost guaranteed blockages further down the line.
The fittings used are designed for above ground only, hence them being grey...
"The fittings used are designed for above ground only, hence them being grey.."
Nonsense. It is the brown colour pipe that is designed for BELOW ground only as it isn't UV resistant. Other colours can be used above or below ground.
Steven Brown ask anyone with knowledge in the trade. Orange pipe is for below ground only. It will do the job in any colour but it’s good practice to use orange as it cannot be mistaken, in future, as other services. This is a very small section so it’s use is obvious.
The red/ brown pipe and fittings are for underground work. They are specifically designed to withstand ground pressure. Never use grey pipe underground , it's thinner in section
I thought your gullies are not supposed to go into the sewer system. Grey water and gullies shouldn't mix....?
No they are not directly joined. I just knew that by digging that out, there would be high risk of damaging adjacent clay soil pipes.
A house of this age will have combined sewers, 100%. Regulations for separate sewer systems only came in on new builds roughly 15 years ago...
Should never reduce the size of the waist pipe.. you're going to wish you put in a rodding eye because thats going to block for sure at the bung..
No real reduction in size, well a couple of mm at the drain connector. It’s what it’s designed for so hoping there won’t be any issues. 😕
@@TheRestorationCouple its a bottleneck none the less, smaller than the toilet outlet, i would instal a rodding eye just above ground level then you wont need it to be jetted clear at added cost from a manhole/interceptor. 4" rod for 10 quid is better than 156 smackeroos for a jetting.. maybe fine for a while but any issues do arise.. it will be there with no access to resolve. Right after a bend wont help much either.
Yeah could stick one on the plastic vertical section which will be boxed in in the porch, but would need to make an access door. Guessing there is a saddle type that can be retrofitted.
@@TheRestorationCouple yea you can just drill and saddle in no time👍🏻
Reded85 Reded85 picked one up this morning. Hopefully never needed but better safe than sorry. 👍
I was hoping to see giggling children laughing at daddy covered in poo. Otherwise v good though!
Without the drains we'd be in the s**t!
Get the cast iron plastic
Mines clay all clay in house.
Offsets on the wetted length of a soil pipe not a great idea
Retaining cast iron it looks awful you could even put the bath or basin waste pipe into the new soil stack and get rid of the other pipe you can get plastic pipe that looks like iron oh me I'm an electrician
Should of put in a clean out in my dude.
Had planned to but no space really unless cut in to cast up higher. There is access to drains on drive and at worst it would mean sliding the toilet off the wall upstairs. Either way, hopefully it never happens but if it does there is a way. 👍
Why piss about with old cast iron pipe replace with plastic end of
I really enjoy your content and admire your skill, enthusiasm and patience but being an old Scottish plumber this one made my eyes bleed. 😭😭
120 years worth of poop 💩 had been through that pipe, lovely 👍🏻🙂
Leave technical work to experts.
Somewhere in my travels I’ve seen replacement “cast pipes” for heritage buildings but they were plastic. I can’t for the life of me remember where I saw them. 🤔
Yes lots around but it’s just a textured plastic so just behaves like the normal plastic soil pipe.
1st
Your building inspector will not be happy with your plastic to clay connection. You are reducing the 4 inch pipe
So why would they make it ?
Checked first and it was the recommended route. It is designed to do exactly this. It reduces diameter by less that 10mm and only for 45mm before returning to original.
They make them in grey/black/white because they are for above ground use only...
don't do it like that. dig it all up and dig about 1.5 meters away from the house. change all the pipes and refit the lot. what you see here is a bodge.
Get rid of the clay pipe its bullshit