Nice video, I have installed many furlers over the last forty +/- years. I assemble all of the furlers with wire from the bottom up and install the Staloc marine eye at the top, this also gives you a slightly longer hoist. This way you don't have to figure out the exact length of the top cut section first. I also install a swaged stud on the bottom. I'm sure you install the Staloc on the bottom so the water coming down the inside of the foils doesn't migrate into the swaged stud, I understand that. This way has worked for me for years. When I preassembly my Staloc's I coat the threads with tef-gel drop a little on the top of the former as well. Then I screw the Staloc together a couple of times to work the tel-gel into the threads. The reason I put a little bit on the former is helps the wire to form easily during assembly. Another thing I noticed: When I supply new halyard for the newly assembled furlers, I don't supply snap shackles on the halyard, I just splice a soft eye on the halyard and then it secures into the supplied shackle on the furler. Having two shackles is redundant in my opinion. Great UA-cam videos, I always have loved the Triton's and all of Carl Alberg's designs. Keep up the great detains on your rebuild projects. Tim Leary, Yacht Rigging Services, Portsmouth RI
The MK IV is intended to be swappable to race mode, which, if I understand correctly, would leave the swivel at the bottom while full size, non-furling sails are used. In this case, you would need a shackle on the halyard.
That was an excellent tutorial. I had one installed for my Santana 2023 many years ago. It is a great furler and has held up wonderfully for over 20 years. In hindsight, the assembly was actually something I could have done myself. Thanks, this is a great reference.
Great video. I have the the Harken Furler system on my Ranger. I also have the Harken Reflex too down Furler installed with a Selden bow sprit. Both furlers are great!
Nice, instructive video. I have criticism, the spring-loaded snap shackle at the halyard end. I would change that out for a shackle, with all of them seized with annealed ss wire. Best, Vernon in Vancouver
one question - Harken indicates that the cross pin should be installed 90 degrees to the lower clevis pin. In the video it looks like you have it parallel. Did you change this or was it okay to install as shown? Excellent video. Was a great reference for my install on a Contessa 26.
Thanks. In the video I showed the pin going both ways but it did end up at 90 degrees to the clevis at bottom of toggle on stemhead. I don't know that it matters that much in this installation with extra toggles and link plates.
great use of a tofu box. nice work, thank you for sharing your experience. When you bought Harken, did you consider Schaffer Snap Furl, or Hood furl systems?
I haven't done a thorough comparison with all other furlers. I'm most familiar with Harken, like the features and they are robust so I most often use them. I've replaced many brands of furlers (old Hoods among them) that had problems or were broken and none of those were Harken yet. I've also installed and used Profurl but the Harken seems to furl slightly easier under load and easier to install with less bulky foils.
Harken does not make long link plates to fit the Unit 0. You need to source your own if needed. Yes, you still need the special harken toggle above the link plates but you can use any standard toggle between the plates and the stemhead. Harken sells long link plates for the Unit 1 and larger furlers and you need to refer to their instructions on those.
NameNaameNameeNaamee If your talking about the flat head screws in the foil extrusion connector assembly. The fasteners in question are called fillister head fasteners. Applied with a flat screw driver. The extrusion has a clearance hole for the fastener head and the corrector is threaded. The load now it transfer to the larger fastener head and not the threads
@@TPLeary Exactly. But you can get these filister heads with torx as well. Using anything but those torx screws is almost inexcusable these days. They simply are the most durable and most hassle free choice, especially in this environment. Over here in Europe you'll hardly find any professional product using flat head or phillips/posidrive anymore. And if you do, chances are very high the product is made in USA...
The main advantage of torx over slotted head is to get an easier grip for faster installation and better tension. But in this case the screw driver load is light and screws must not be overtightened or they will strip out the aluminum threads quite easily. So it's not an issue here and for some people Torx might encourage overtightening.
Nice video, I have installed many furlers over the last forty +/- years. I assemble all of the furlers with wire from the bottom up and install the Staloc marine eye at the top, this also gives you a slightly longer hoist. This way you don't have to figure out the exact length of the top cut section first. I also install a swaged stud on the bottom. I'm sure you install the Staloc on the bottom so the water coming down the inside of the foils doesn't migrate into the swaged stud, I understand that. This way has worked for me for years.
When I preassembly my Staloc's I coat the threads with tef-gel drop a little on the top of the former as well. Then I screw the Staloc together a couple of times to work the tel-gel into the threads. The reason I put a little bit on the former is helps the wire to form easily during assembly.
Another thing I noticed: When I supply new halyard for the newly assembled furlers, I don't supply snap shackles on the halyard, I just splice a soft eye on the halyard and then it secures into the supplied shackle on the furler. Having two shackles is redundant in my opinion.
Great UA-cam videos, I always have loved the Triton's and all of Carl Alberg's designs. Keep up the great detains on your rebuild projects. Tim Leary, Yacht Rigging Services, Portsmouth RI
Tim
Thanks for the comment and for the tips.
The MK IV is intended to be swappable to race mode, which, if I understand correctly, would leave the swivel at the bottom while full size, non-furling sails are used. In this case, you would need a shackle on the halyard.
That was an excellent tutorial. I had one installed for my Santana 2023 many years ago. It is a great furler and has held up wonderfully for over 20 years. In hindsight, the assembly was actually something I could have done myself. Thanks, this is a great reference.
Excellent video, with great explanations of not only how it should by done but why you do things a certain way. Learned a lot, thanks.
Well done i think anyone can tackle this insultion after your demo you make it look so simple
Great video. I have the the Harken Furler system on my Ranger.
I also have the Harken Reflex too down Furler installed with a Selden bow sprit.
Both furlers are great!
I just started building 61 yatches, I'm learning the plumbing, electrical, and mechanical. hope I learn from you too.
Nice, instructive video. I have criticism, the spring-loaded snap shackle at the halyard end. I would change that out for a shackle, with all of them seized with annealed ss wire. Best, Vernon in Vancouver
Nicely done tutorial!
Very nice video. Thank you. Lots of good information presented that will be useful when I do a similar job on my boat this spring.
Great help! A ton of important information you shared. Many, many thanks sir! 👍
Thank you, that was very clear and helpful.
Outstanding video, this answered many questions. Thank you.
Excellent instructional, thanks for posting this!
Thank you for this, very well done
Nice video!
one question - Harken indicates that the cross pin should be installed 90 degrees to the lower clevis pin. In the video it looks like you have it parallel. Did you change this or was it okay to install as shown?
Excellent video. Was a great reference for my install on a Contessa 26.
Thanks. In the video I showed the pin going both ways but it did end up at 90 degrees to the clevis at bottom of toggle on stemhead. I don't know that it matters that much in this installation with extra toggles and link plates.
great use of a tofu box. nice work, thank you for sharing your experience. When you bought Harken, did you consider Schaffer Snap Furl, or Hood furl systems?
I haven't done a thorough comparison with all other furlers. I'm most familiar with Harken, like the features and they are robust so I most often use them. I've replaced many brands of furlers (old Hoods among them) that had problems or were broken and none of those were Harken yet. I've also installed and used Profurl but the Harken seems to furl slightly easier under load and easier to install with less bulky foils.
@@atomvoyager thank you for the reply. for my C22 I bought a Schaffer snapfurl 700 as it was $1,100 vs Harkin at $1,900.
Watching this makes my head spin. Glad I ditched my furling for hank on.
Do the long link plates also require the special toogle and the cross pin?
Harken does not make long link plates to fit the Unit 0. You need to source your own if needed. Yes, you still need the special harken toggle above the link plates but you can use any standard toggle between the plates and the stemhead. Harken sells long link plates for the Unit 1 and larger furlers and you need to refer to their instructions on those.
Amazing how they can get away using flat head screws on a product like this. If there ever was an environment for torx, it's marine gear.
this
NameNaameNameeNaamee If your talking about the flat head screws in the foil extrusion connector assembly. The fasteners in question are called fillister head fasteners. Applied with a flat screw driver.
The extrusion has a clearance hole for the fastener head and the corrector is threaded. The load now it transfer to the larger fastener head and not the threads
@@TPLeary Exactly. But you can get these filister heads with torx as well. Using anything but those torx screws is almost inexcusable these days. They simply are the most durable and most hassle free choice, especially in this environment. Over here in Europe you'll hardly find any professional product using flat head or phillips/posidrive anymore. And if you do, chances are very high the product is made in USA...
The main advantage of torx over slotted head is to get an easier grip for faster installation and better tension. But in this case the screw driver load is light and screws must not be overtightened or they will strip out the aluminum threads quite easily. So it's not an issue here and for some people Torx might encourage overtightening.
Nice! Come do mine! :-)