Thank you for the excellent video. I just replaced my Weber Summit cookbox, flavour bars, burner tubes and grates. Would never have been able to do it without your video. Thanks again.
Great video. It definitely helped with replacing my cook box. Be advised that this video is designed for 2012 or later models. I have a 2008 Summit and it does not have a sear station. Some of the screws are in different locations as well. It took me a while to figure out what was going on. Weber sent two different cook boxes that did not have pre-drilled holes in places that where there should have been holes. I ended up drilling them myself on the second box. One set was on the for the control panel 13:42. I think there was a design change on this one. The other set was for the infrared panel cover 13:46. The upper holes were there but the lower two were holes were not pre-drilled. I have Summit grills from 2008 and 2012 and they both have four pre-drilled holes to attach the infrared panel.
Really an excellent video, prepared with care. You did miss a couple of things. At 5:15, the proper snaking of the main gas line needs to be considered as you replace the cook box. Perhaps this only applies to natural gas versions like I have, but if the gas line isn't snaked around the right side and up through a little opening at the front as the cook box is being placed, then you won't be able to slide in the drip tray or close the front doors. The other item that threw me was the infrared burner cover. My Summit model 670 did not have a plastic tube over the wires. It had a larger burner cover that covers the whole back of the cook box including the wires, and is held in place with four machine screws -- not just two as shown here. If you have this model and are replacing the cook box, you'll receive a cook box with only two screw holes (for the newer type of burner cover). Your options then are to hold the old burner cover in place with only two machine screws (that's what I'm trying), or to replace the burner cover as well (in which case you'll also need to get the plastic tube for the infrared burner wires).
Probably the best weber grill repair video on UA-cam. Very informative. Thanks
Thank you for the excellent video. I just replaced my Weber Summit cookbox, flavour bars, burner tubes and grates. Would never have been able to do it without your video. Thanks again.
Great video. It definitely helped with replacing my cook box. Be advised that this video is designed for 2012 or later models. I have a 2008 Summit and it does not have a sear station. Some of the screws are in different locations as well. It took me a while to figure out what was going on. Weber sent two different cook boxes that did not have pre-drilled holes in places that where there should have been holes. I ended up drilling them myself on the second box.
One set was on the for the control panel 13:42. I think there was a design change on this one. The other set was for the infrared panel cover 13:46. The upper holes were there but the lower two were holes were not pre-drilled. I have Summit grills from 2008 and 2012 and they both have four pre-drilled holes to attach the infrared panel.
Really an excellent video, prepared with care. You did miss a couple of things. At 5:15, the proper snaking of the main gas line needs to be considered as you replace the cook box. Perhaps this only applies to natural gas versions like I have, but if the gas line isn't snaked around the right side and up through a little opening at the front as the cook box is being placed, then you won't be able to slide in the drip tray or close the front doors.
The other item that threw me was the infrared burner cover. My Summit model 670 did not have a plastic tube over the wires. It had a larger burner cover that covers the whole back of the cook box including the wires, and is held in place with four machine screws -- not just two as shown here. If you have this model and are replacing the cook box, you'll receive a cook box with only two screw holes (for the newer type of burner cover). Your options then are to hold the old burner cover in place with only two machine screws (that's what I'm trying), or to replace the burner cover as well (in which case you'll also need to get the plastic tube for the infrared burner wires).
Thanks for making this video!
How do you get the shroud off? The video skips taking the clevis pins out, which are stuck on mine. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?