The Maximum output current for HT7333 is 250mA. As the ESP32 has spikes of current that varies from 300 mA to 400 mA, I think that one good alternative to this is the LT1763-3.3. The quiescent current of LT1763-3.3 is a bit bigger (30uA) but it can delivery current up to 500 mA. What do you think, Andreas?
Wow! What a comprehensive coverage of regulator selection and application. I’ve been in the electronics business for 35 years and never have I seen so much valuable content in 22 minutes!
Thank you for a comprehensive overview of the major differences of these regulator types. Every time I watch your videos I realise how much more I need to learn :-D Keep up the great work Andreas.
Finally found the video after 30 min searching. Yesterday I watched this without being logged in and it did not show in the history, but forgot the author's name. I enjoyed the video - informative and entertaining at the same time. Thank you!
While a bit crude, you can usually find better quality switching regulators on old PCBs. I've had better results than the cheap modules I've bought before. Things like old wifi routers usually use one or more step down supply circuits that are designed well and they don't interfere with the radio circuit on board. I've also found a few Buck-Boost SEPIC converters on old wireless keyboards and mice. When I'm salvaging these circuits I usually check them beforehand to see the output and the basic topology. Then I mark an outline to cut and use metal shears type scissors to quickly make my own modules from the original PCB. I think that's a bit crude for a Pro EE like Mr Spiess, but for the beginner or hobbyist it's a handy way to learn about different circuits and do some real world recycling ;) -Jake
Thanks for another excellent video. I am a retired Mechanical engineer so my exposure to electronics, up till now, has been limited. Your videos are well done and I feel that I am learning lot from them.
Excellent video again. I got a little muddled up at the end when you were summarizing the quiescent currents and the devices. For my head there were too many numbers to keep track of. A table would have been superb. No matter, this was super helpful for me and I really appreciate your efforts. I recently did a project using a MCP1703A. It has a very low quiescent current of 5uA.
Thank you Andreas, recently I was graphing heat dissipation by Buck converter powering from 12v Battery to Raspberry Pi. And at right time you uploaded the video. Now I have understood many important factors for selecting the regulator.
Super useful tutorial both in the telling & in the interesting & useful comments discussions as I am currently struggling with creating a low voltage & low quiescent currents along with noise suppression for a project. Thank you for sharing!
Another great instalment and even better Building on your previous posts. You have to listen out for the new information and then the light bulb clicks on😋. Clear concise = Andreas Spiess
Thanks for this video. I thought my wireless doorbell fried when I changed batteries to step down regulator and transformer but was the noise which blocked the signal! Now it works with a regulator ic. Thanks!
Learned a lot from this video. The Swiss Government should hire you to be their online UA-cam Electrical Engineering teacher. Are you a former EE instructor ? Your presentations are very good.
Very nice. Deep sleep miniatures, I can see a use for those, wake on demand, wake on request, wake and upload, wake and broadcast, wake and receive. Great Video; the housings you made for your instrument displays, were exceptional. Not only are they easy handy, they look great, nice tools. I could actually see being able to combine them like legos, and serve a function. That would actually be kind of cool. One of your blocks could be a power supply, snap on an op amp, or any of so many nice little circuits found out there. Pop on a strob. a VU meter, a light detector, a mic module with a pre amp. Some of the modules could be lights, speakers, both combined. every module with some sort of indicator or read out, Of course they are kits, you have to build yourself. Finished they are tools for testing. bread board circuits inside, easy change and test similar components. Just Tripping out on your electronics, which deserves recognition for ingenuity. imagination. practical application. clean math with clean parts, and a clean work area with all the testing equipement. That would be a great job, designing testing equipment, that gave the user the feel of real power, flipping switches, fine tuning, mode selecting analyzing power. signal generating, analyzing zoom in, out red light flashing power. I want to build . Fun hobbie. I created an under sea world with green and blue LEDs that happened by accident, I saw a concept, and now it's an environment.
@@AndreasSpiess Nice. The guys at the electronics store where I get a lot of my supplies sell the printers, they have one set up, and I always have to see what they are up to. I would sure like to have one.
I'm very impressed by all of your videos. Outstanding informative, very didactical and very well structured. Answers to a lot of questions I had or never had, but should have had :-) Very inspiring. Please keep on going like this. I became a patreon of yours.
Important! learned a lot. Thanks. By the way, at 5:00, I felt that you treat your components like some life forms. And I agree totally, every component deserves it's/his/her right to life:)
Thanks for another great informative video Andreas. I favour the MCP1702 series LDO linear regs, especially for deep sleep battery operations. Key feature is the 2uA quiescent current. The 3.3V version has a drop out voltage of 525mV which isn't too bad.
Hello Andreas, thank you for this very informative video! This is truly a subject that interests all makers. A little more information on buck/boost converters would have completed the topic. I personally like to use them to make projects that can take a range of input voltages. Thanks for all the time you invest to help us all move forward and I'm always looking forward to viewing you latest video on Sunday's. 😀
Fantastic video Andreas. Maybe your best yet. If felt like the longer format allowed you to be much more through. Clearly you put a lot of time into creating this one (even more than usual). Thank you.
Hi Andreas, My project use 3 AAA battery, so I need a regulator to power the Microchip PIC at 3.3v. Quiescent current is mandatory for extend battery life. Micro most of the time is in sleep mode and it consume less than 1uA. I used the Microchip MCP1810 LDO. It has only 20nA!!! Another plus is that when input voltage is less than 'drop out voltage' input is shorted to output (LDO is excluded); so I can use battery down to 3v or less.
Thank you Andreas! I'm issuing a Winter Topic Slide Warning: For projects that are 'mostly mains powered', I frequently use microcontrollers together with an added 18650 LiPo battery as an uninterruptible power supply. The use case I'm describing is not very different from a solar power use case. I found that a combination of a charge controller module, a buck-boost module, and a pair of diodes works well enough for this, but it is not efficient, it is fairly expensive, and it doesn't seem to maintain the battery very well. Now, I imagine this to be a very common use case, but either there are no such power management chips, or I am incompetent at searching vendors' parts catalogs. In all your searches for efficient parts, have you or one of your brilliant fans come across an efficient solution to A) power a microcontroller, B) maintain a correct charge on a 1S-3S LiPo pack, and C) efficiently manage the power transfer between the external supply to the LiPo and back?
This is great for constant current applications. Would love a video series for data channel conversions and necessary side effects. Been having issues driving LED strips and either dropping 5v to 3.3v data channels or vice versa.
If you are talking about level conversion between 3.3 and 5v: There are many small boards available which do exactly that. From 5 to 3.3v only you can use a voltage divider.
Great video. You probably knew I was going to say this ;-) Btw, you have a Prusa MK3 ! Omg, I'm realy getting jealous now. I'm already saving for this.
Yes, I have the new Prusa. My old one had intermittent problems and I read a lot of good stuff about Prusa. When I got on his page, he just released the new model. This timing enabled me to be one of the first who ordered one. Not cheap, but I am so used to 3D print...
Another view of the inductor and capacitor in the switching circuit is as a low pass filter "smoothing out" the AC you are making into DC by turning the switch off and on (vs the energy tank explanation :) )
There is another very simple solution, a shunt regulator, such as the TL431. It is "like" a super Zener diode (in reverse) and in PARALLEL (not in serial) with the "load". It can be adjusted to fit any voltage from 2.5V to 36V (without exceeding the voltage of the source, it is not a booster), with ZERO drop out voltage and requiring just 1 mA to work (in parallel with the amperage delivered to the load) (You can "typically" have it to work for a current as low as 400uA, but it is preferable to have 1 mA to be "sure"). So the power dissipation, for your example, can be as low as 0.001A * 10V = 0.01W. The TL431 may be delivered in a TO-92 case (looking like a discrete BJT), and you only need to add one, two or sometimes three resistances to make the required circuit (plus connectors). Its cost is really low (0.06$CAN at Amazon). Its SPICE model is available with the free version of TINA (distributed by Texas Instrument) (Just be careful, BEWARE, TINA does not use the standard TO-92 numbers for the pins, mis-wiring the TL431 is a huge possibility, consult the spec sheet and wire accordingly, not intuitively). If it is becoming warm to the touch, you probably have miss-wired it. The major problem, in the actual case, is that even without "load", 1mA is a large "quiescent" amperage. So we would have to disconnect the circuit, somehow.
Thank you for the info. For small currents a good idea. The TL431 has to "eat" the whole current if no load is attached. And the resistors have to be small enough to provide the voltage at max current.
Maybe you ask yourself the question: "Who could be interested in having their Oscilloscope shown in every video". UA-cam is my hobby and I can assure you that you do not get rich with it.
What about employing one or more smoothing caps across the output to deal with the ripple from the switching converter as you would in a mains supply PSU? I love your sense of humour too Andreas, it's a huge bonus to your videos.
Hi Andreas, great work as always! Could you name the tiny BOOST converter PCB module with BC035 making on it that you used at the end of the video .. which BOOST converter IC does it use? What about the M8-03 BUCK converter module you showed on ALiExpress? Which IC does it use?
Sali Andreas, love your Swiss accent! I also have not been able to get rid of mine. As long as you call the meat on the plate not like the timber no worries. But the FBI is like ei so is the quiescent current. English is not regulated like German. Downunder we drive on tyres while in the US they use tires. There are tongue breakers. California has Yosemite and in the land of Koalas we eat Vegemite, both same ending but different pronunciation. Acronym abuse gets one confused so in our ham radio club ce hand each other upper sideband siticks!
Very good video. Personally i try avoiding variable converters because i have had problems with bad trimpots that throws the voltage out of the set value. I stick to fixed regulators.
You should consider output voltage ripple in quiescent mode. As the controller usuallys switches from discontinious current mode to pulse skipping when there is nearly no load. This may result in significant higher ripple on output, which may not fit your requirements anymore or even can trigger a brown out detector of a micro controller. Allways remember to measure ripple voltage as close to output caps as possible! Even the ground wire of the probe can become an antenna at these frequencies...
This was more an overview video. So I had to stay at the surface. Anyway, I recommend for the ESP projects relatively big capacitors which might help in this case.
Nice tutorial. I did a review of the efficiencies of a buck boost and a LM7805 recently. The buck boost did not perform as expected. I did another video troubleshooting it. Turns out the boost chip was getting hot even when it should have been in buck mode. After removing the boost I got the efficiency the manufacturer promised but the output voltage dropped. Not sure why though. Thankfully Dave set up a decent forum. While I did not get the direct answer from the responses it got me thinking along the correct lines.
I know. You may not be able to replicate my problem. Its the troubleshooting steps that I may not have thought of that are important. Also I am moving locations in 2 weeks so I will not have the said board or any electronic equipment. Regardless it would still be interesting to get the perspective on how to solve problems.
another exzellent presentation. I really love watching you as you really make things easy. Can you also post the types or AliExpress links of the regulators you measured. Will make live easier if I need one to order
Thanks a lot for this lesson and measuring the spectrum of the DC/DC converters. So These tiny switchers are not compatible with the cheap radar devices. But a 7805 helps out. A very interesting topic ist the stability of the regulators. The LDO & low quiescent current seems to be more sensitive to ESR of capacitive loads ; the old 78xx and the AMS1117 seem to be more robust in that aspect.
I think, Regulators have many aspects. I just got a mail fromTI with their selection. Overwhelming. Obviously different applications need different LDOs... BTW: Radars are higher. Maybe they would survive it from an RF point of view...
Btw: These tiny DC/DC converters are compatible with ESP8266 and ESP32 although their EMC behaviour. In some applications I am using them in a small metal can. These cans were reused and they originally the contained a kind of medicine ("Ipalat"). Hope this also helps a bit against EMC ;-)
Yes TI has a lot of brillant regulators and I know them from my business. Sometimes you can get some of them in reused products of automotive industry on ali or eBay. But up to now I could not find readymade modules using modern TI regulators on our typical sources. Maybe you TI contact Person can help? I tried to use These tiny DC/DC converters with the Radar motion sensors and the HB100 as well. It did not work properly. On Petes blog you can find some filters proposed (tech.scargill.net/microwave-for-the-weekend/). Maybe it helps, using a 7805 was faster and simpler for me.
whitefields5595 You can check Texas Instruments TPS63020 device. This one is a buck boost for single cell lipo batteries and has quiescent current of about 30uA. Pretty much the best i found so far as buck boost converter. I am waiting for the chineese guys to make some designs and selling them on aliexpress... Well, I can provide ready design files, if some one needs...
whitefields5595 if you do, please check, that PS/Sync pin of the chip is connected to ground, or the quiescent current will be more likly in mA... I made this error in my first design, by just copy their sample design, where it is connected to VinA, resulting in continous current mode... I use it in combination with Linear LTC4067 as charger... I like this combo, but it is kind of expensive, compared to the chineese stuff.
You are very kind, thank you. I will let you know how I get on. I've used the 18650 on my bike to make a computer and am now developing a power meter based on strain gauges on the pedal crank. I've got LED strip brake lights driven by a boost converter , RTC and a OLED display. I'm pleased I can power all this from the 18650 but have to be careful as the voltage drops, hence my post.
Great video! I wish I would have watched it before I made the experience that my 1A regulator overheated already with 0.2A. There are two issues for which I would like to see more info (maybe you have it already in another video). Which capacitors (size and type) should be used with the regulators? Which temperature is acceptable i.e. in a small case? I know the datasheets have some information about both these points but I am sure you have additional practical advice. Thanks
We also use the data sheets for our work. Not a lot to add. To avoid that the ESP does unwanted resets I add a 1000uF capacitor. Maybe you watch my deep sleep video if you are interested.
@@AndreasSpiess Thanks for your fast reply. I had a problem with an Arduino Mega 2560 Pro Mini with USB power supply. It stopped working after a few seconds. I added a 470uF capacitor and all worked fine. I was surprised that the USB port from my expensive ASUS Motherboard was not "good enough". I watched already your deep sleep video. Interesting!
you can kill them with an overvoltage @ the input but they are overload protected. These particular devices are advertised to deliver 3A but they will stop working a bit earlier.
Excellent video as always! What if saving money is not the primary goal? Instead if we wanted to focus first on efficiency and then on a smooth output with low noise? How can we find such?
As mentioned, it depends on the input voltage. For a Lipo and 3.3 volts, I probably would go with an LDO. Switchers are always the second choice for me because of ripple and noise. I only use them if I need.
Maybe connecting a switching regulator with a voltage slightly higher than the output to an LDO? This would be quite efficient since the LDO only has to drop a few millivolts and smooth because of the LDO's noise rejection. And for a LiPo, the best would be a buck-boost converter since, with an LDO or buck converter, the voltage must be higher than 3.3 V for the MCU to operate properly. Better use 2 smaller cells in series and a buck converter. And probably some EMI shielding (a piece of aluminium foil should do).
Request for research: two load scenarios (a) 3.3v micro/arduino and (b) 5v micro/arduino... Power source: Battery operated using 2x18650 either in series with a buck converter or in parallel with a boost converter.. My guess is on the serial/buck being the best option
Buck-boost and SEPIC are not the same thing. There are 4 different topologies used as combined step-up and step down: 1. Buck-boost en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck%E2%80%93boost_converter 2. SEPIC en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single-ended_primary-inductor_converter 3. ZETA (inverse SEPIC) www.electronicsweekly.com/blogs/engineer-in-wonderland/zeta-that-other-dc-dc-topology-2016-05/ 4. Ćuk en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C4%86uk_converter
Hi, I am searching for a regulator circuit ic for lowering the voltage from 27 to 24 volta at 15 amperes. I am not able to find any which supports more than 8 amperes. Example LM2576 ic supports max 3 amperes, i need one which can use 15 amps. Please suggest.
Great video. I've learn so much from it. What do I have to watch out for step up regular? I'm making projects with Raspberry Pi and it take 5V, but most re-chargeable battery is 3.7V.
ERROR CORRECTION: Low Quiescent Regulator is HT7333, not HT7111. Sorry.
Prison time for such blatant mistake ! Oh wait you are not a surgeon :D
Another small omission creeped in at 9:51. It should be 24C over ambient temperature. So 25C ambient + 24C regulator ~50C total.
Hi 7133 with 24v input voltage and 2.5 microamps Quiescent is better than 7333
Unfortunately, the HT7133 will not work with most icrocontrollers as it supports only 30 mA
The Maximum output current for HT7333 is 250mA. As the ESP32 has spikes of current that varies from 300 mA to 400 mA, I think that one good alternative to this is the LT1763-3.3. The quiescent current of LT1763-3.3 is a bit bigger (30uA) but it can delivery current up to 500 mA.
What do you think, Andreas?
Wow! What a comprehensive coverage of regulator selection and application. I’ve been in the electronics business for 35 years and never have I seen so much valuable content in 22 minutes!
Thank you for your nice words!
Thank you for a comprehensive overview of the major differences of these regulator types. Every time I watch your videos I realise how much more I need to learn :-D Keep up the great work Andreas.
You are welcome. I hope this is encouraging ;-)
Clear and concise, very Swiss! Thanks Andreas.....
You are welcome!
Finally found the video after 30 min searching. Yesterday I watched this without being logged in and it did not show in the history, but forgot the author's name. I enjoyed the video - informative and entertaining at the same time. Thank you!
You are welcome. Glad you found it.
Danke für deine tollen und gut verständlichen Videos. Hab schon sehr viel von dir gelernt!
Vielen Dank für deinen Support!
While a bit crude, you can usually find better quality switching regulators on old PCBs. I've had better results than the cheap modules I've bought before. Things like old wifi routers usually use one or more step down supply circuits that are designed well and they don't interfere with the radio circuit on board.
I've also found a few Buck-Boost SEPIC converters on old wireless keyboards and mice. When I'm salvaging these circuits I usually check them beforehand to see the output and the basic topology. Then I mark an outline to cut and use metal shears type scissors to quickly make my own modules from the original PCB. I think that's a bit crude for a Pro EE like Mr Spiess, but for the beginner or hobbyist it's a handy way to learn about different circuits and do some real world recycling ;)
-Jake
I am also a maker and do not build things to sell ;-) I like your idea.
Thank you Andreas! You are making the world and the people better every day
Thank you!
It's amazing how much you can cover in 20 minutes. Good work.
Thank you!
Thanks for another excellent video. I am a retired Mechanical engineer so my exposure to electronics, up till now, has been limited. Your videos are well done and I feel that I am learning lot from them.
Good to read. I had to learn some "mechanical" stuff when I bought my CNC mill. Was not easy...
Really great video to refreshes my half-learned, half-forgotten knowledge from my electronics course 10 years ago :D
Glad you liked it!
Very nice videos sir...from the philippines here...🇵🇭🇵🇭🇵🇭
Thank you!
Thank you so much! You are one of the most valuable persons who can change people's value.
Thank you for your nice words!
I tought physics for a while and you are definitely my reference. thanks so much.
You are welcome!
Excellent video again. I got a little muddled up at the end when you were summarizing the quiescent currents and the devices. For my head there were too many numbers to keep track of. A table would have been superb. No matter, this was super helpful for me and I really appreciate your efforts. I recently did a project using a MCP1703A. It has a very low quiescent current of 5uA.
You are right. A table would have been a good idea. Maybe next time...
...because I can not watch them die in front of my eyes ... instant like, kind sir!
Thank you!
Thank you Andreas, recently I was graphing heat dissipation by Buck converter powering from 12v Battery to Raspberry Pi. And at right time you uploaded the video. Now I have understood many important factors for selecting the regulator.
Thank you for your feedback!
Super useful tutorial both in the telling & in the interesting & useful comments discussions as I am currently struggling with creating a low voltage & low quiescent currents along with noise suppression for a project. Thank you for sharing!
You are welcome!
I am amazed at how informative these videos are. Thank you for sharing!
Glad you like them!
Another great one.... I’m learning tons on the Channel! Thanks
You are welcome
Another great instalment and even better Building on your previous posts. You have to listen out for the new information and then the light bulb clicks on😋.
Clear concise = Andreas Spiess
Thank you very much!
Thanks for this video. I thought my wireless doorbell fried when I changed batteries to step down regulator and transformer but was the noise which blocked the signal! Now it works with a regulator ic. Thanks!
You are welcome!
Enjoying your channel a lot and thankful your English accent is heaps better than my Swiss mate who has lived in Australia for nearly 30 years..... :)
Thank you!
Thank you for your posts. I enjoy just listening to them at my bench or desk. Keep them coming!
You are welcome!
One of the best videos you've ever done. Very detailed!
Thank you!
Very well explained, Andreas. This is one of my favorite videos to start learning microcontrollers!
Thank you!
Hey Andreas, you just got this video mentioned on Hackaday. Good job and hope your channel continues to grow. May the Swiss accent keep on going!
Thank you for the info. I did not know.
Beautifully illustrated.
Many thanks!
Learned a lot from this video. The Swiss Government should hire you to be their online UA-cam Electrical Engineering teacher. Are you a former EE instructor ? Your presentations are very good.
No, I am not an electronics instructor. But I did some courses at Universities in other topics
Very nice. Deep sleep miniatures, I can see a use for those, wake on demand, wake on request, wake and upload, wake and broadcast, wake and receive.
Great Video; the housings you made for your instrument displays, were exceptional. Not only are they easy handy, they look great, nice tools. I could actually see being able to combine them like legos, and serve a function. That would actually be kind of cool. One of your blocks could be a power supply, snap on an op amp, or any of so many nice little circuits found out there. Pop on a strob. a VU meter, a light detector, a mic module with a pre amp. Some of the modules could be lights, speakers, both combined. every module with some sort of indicator or read out, Of course they are kits, you have to build yourself. Finished they are tools for testing. bread board circuits inside, easy change and test similar components.
Just Tripping out on your electronics, which deserves recognition for ingenuity. imagination. practical application. clean math with clean parts, and a clean work area with all the testing equipement.
That would be a great job, designing testing equipment, that gave the user the feel of real power, flipping switches, fine tuning, mode selecting analyzing power. signal generating, analyzing zoom in, out red light flashing power. I want to build .
Fun hobbie. I created an under sea world with green and blue LEDs that happened by accident, I saw a concept, and now it's an environment.
Maybe you start to build your own system with such boxes? I made a video on how to design them quite easy...
@@AndreasSpiess Nice. The guys at the electronics store where I get a lot of my supplies sell the printers, they have one set up, and I always have to see what they are up to. I would sure like to have one.
I'm very impressed by all of your videos. Outstanding informative, very didactical and very well structured. Answers to a lot of questions I had or never had, but should have had :-) Very inspiring. Please keep on going like this. I became a patreon of yours.
Thank you for your nice words and for your support!
Important! learned a lot. Thanks.
By the way, at 5:00, I felt that you treat your components like some life forms. And I agree totally, every component deserves it's/his/her right to life:)
You are welcome!
Danke vielmal, Andreas!
Gerne mehr von solchen "basics" Videos.
Viele Grüsse in die Schweiz!
Bitte, gern geschehen. Mal sehen, was sich dazu noch eignet. Ich möchte nicht etwas machen was es schon in Duzendware gibt ;-)
Thanks for another great informative video Andreas. I favour the MCP1702 series LDO linear regs, especially for deep sleep battery operations. Key feature is the 2uA quiescent current. The 3.3V version has a drop out voltage of 525mV which isn't too bad.
Thanks for your feedback.
Hello Andreas, thank you for this very informative video! This is truly a subject that interests all makers. A little more information on buck/boost converters would have completed the topic. I personally like to use them to make projects that can take a range of input voltages. Thanks for all the time you invest to help us all move forward and I'm always looking forward to viewing you latest video on Sunday's. 😀
You are welcome. I already abused my 15 minutes rule ;-) Maybe in a later video.
Spectacular as always! Looking forward to the box design and print video.
Thank you!
Thankyou so much for your time and eplaining so clearly these topics.
You are welcome!
Thanks for making these videos, they are very interesting and thanks for sharing your knowledge. :)
Pledged. Excellent channel helping my MFA computational art at Goldsmith s London!
Thank you for your support!
Fantastic video Andreas. Maybe your best yet. If felt like the longer format allowed you to be much more through.
Clearly you put a lot of time into creating this one (even more than usual). Thank you.
You are right concerning time ;-). You are welcome.
excellent video, as always. big thumbs up from your neighbour in Austria.
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
You are so simple in your examples, I like that 👍
You are welcome. I always try to create understandable videos. Thank you for confirming that I got it right!
This video reminded me the Electronic course in my University. Very insteresting!
Thanks!
Hi Andreas, My project use 3 AAA battery, so I need a regulator to power the Microchip PIC at 3.3v. Quiescent current is mandatory for extend battery life. Micro most of the time is in sleep mode and it consume less than 1uA. I used the Microchip MCP1810 LDO. It has only 20nA!!! Another plus is that when input voltage is less than 'drop out voltage' input is shorted to output (LDO is excluded); so I can use battery down to 3v or less.
Informative AND humorous! Thank you.
You are welcome!
Awesome video Andreas! Really learnt a lot! Thank you!
Happy to hear that!
Thank you Andreas! I'm issuing a Winter Topic Slide Warning: For projects that are 'mostly mains powered', I frequently use microcontrollers together with an added 18650 LiPo battery as an uninterruptible power supply. The use case I'm describing is not very different from a solar power use case.
I found that a combination of a charge controller module, a buck-boost module, and a pair of diodes works well enough for this, but it is not efficient, it is fairly expensive, and it doesn't seem to maintain the battery very well.
Now, I imagine this to be a very common use case, but either there are no such power management chips, or I am incompetent at searching vendors' parts catalogs. In all your searches for efficient parts, have you or one of your brilliant fans come across an efficient solution to A) power a microcontroller, B) maintain a correct charge on a 1S-3S LiPo pack, and C) efficiently manage the power transfer between the external supply to the LiPo and back?
I still have this use case on my list for solar. Maybe it will become one day a video...
Very nice! Clear and concise.
:-)
This is great for constant current applications. Would love a video series for data channel conversions and necessary side effects. Been having issues driving LED strips and either dropping 5v to 3.3v data channels or vice versa.
If you are talking about level conversion between 3.3 and 5v: There are many small boards available which do exactly that. From 5 to 3.3v only you can use a voltage divider.
Great video. You probably knew I was going to say this ;-)
Btw, you have a Prusa MK3 ! Omg, I'm realy getting jealous now. I'm already saving for this.
Yes, I have the new Prusa. My old one had intermittent problems and I read a lot of good stuff about Prusa. When I got on his page, he just released the new model. This timing enabled me to be one of the first who ordered one. Not cheap, but I am so used to 3D print...
wie immer ein exzellentes Video.. weiter so und vielen Dank für deine großartige Arbeit.
Bitte, gern geschehen
Thank you Andreas for your clear explanations!
You are welcome!
Another view of the inductor and capacitor in the switching circuit is as a low pass filter "smoothing out" the AC you are making into DC by turning the switch off and on (vs the energy tank explanation :) )
I agree.
Great, informative video! As usual for your channel!
Thank you!
Great intro to powering projects.
Thanks!
Another excellent video. Thanks Andreas.
You are welcome!
it's been 5 years now and I think we'd love an update on voltage regulators :)
Maybe...
My fave buck regulator it's the TSR2433, I like the single package so and three pins so less chance for me shorting it out on something!
Nice product!
There is another very simple solution, a shunt regulator, such as the TL431. It is "like" a super Zener diode (in reverse) and in PARALLEL (not in serial) with the "load". It can be adjusted to fit any voltage from 2.5V to 36V (without exceeding the voltage of the source, it is not a booster), with ZERO drop out voltage and requiring just 1 mA to work (in parallel with the amperage delivered to the load) (You can "typically" have it to work for a current as low as 400uA, but it is preferable to have 1 mA to be "sure"). So the power dissipation, for your example, can be as low as 0.001A * 10V = 0.01W. The TL431 may be delivered in a TO-92 case (looking like a discrete BJT), and you only need to add one, two or sometimes three resistances to make the required circuit (plus connectors). Its cost is really low (0.06$CAN at Amazon). Its SPICE model is available with the free version of TINA (distributed by Texas Instrument) (Just be careful, BEWARE, TINA does not use the standard TO-92 numbers for the pins, mis-wiring the TL431 is a huge possibility, consult the spec sheet and wire accordingly, not intuitively). If it is becoming warm to the touch, you probably have miss-wired it. The major problem, in the actual case, is that even without "load", 1mA is a large "quiescent" amperage. So we would have to disconnect the circuit, somehow.
Thank you for the info. For small currents a good idea. The TL431 has to "eat" the whole current if no load is attached. And the resistors have to be small enough to provide the voltage at max current.
“Reading data sheet is useful and it’s depends on your personality” 😂👍 TRUE
:-)
RTFM
Holy mother of God. Your oscilloscope is worth £11,000!!!!! You must be loaded from all your videos. Sugar. I'm stunned!!!
Maybe you ask yourself the question: "Who could be interested in having their Oscilloscope shown in every video". UA-cam is my hobby and I can assure you that you do not get rich with it.
What about employing one or more smoothing caps across the output to deal with the ripple from the switching converter as you would in a mains supply PSU?
I love your sense of humour too Andreas, it's a huge bonus to your videos.
Caps are usually good;-)
Hi Andreas, great work as always!
Could you name the tiny BOOST converter PCB module with BC035 making on it that you used at the end of the video .. which BOOST converter IC does it use?
What about the M8-03 BUCK converter module you showed on ALiExpress? Which IC does it use?
excellent informative video! great channel! thanks for al the information!
You are welcome!
Sali Andreas, love your Swiss accent! I also have not been able to get rid of mine. As long as you call the meat on the plate not like the timber no worries. But the FBI is like ei so is the quiescent current. English is not regulated like German. Downunder we drive on tyres while in the US they use tires. There are tongue breakers. California has Yosemite and in the land of Koalas we eat Vegemite, both same ending but different pronunciation. Acronym abuse gets one confused so in our ham radio club ce hand each other upper sideband siticks!
God I love your videos so much!
Thank you!
Very good video. Personally i try avoiding variable converters because i have had problems with bad trimpots that throws the voltage out of the set value. I stick to fixed regulators.
I agree.
You should consider output voltage ripple in quiescent mode. As the controller usuallys switches from discontinious current mode to pulse skipping when there is nearly no load. This may result in significant higher ripple on output, which may not fit your requirements anymore or even can trigger a brown out detector of a micro controller. Allways remember to measure ripple voltage as close to output caps as possible! Even the ground wire of the probe can become an antenna at these frequencies...
This was more an overview video. So I had to stay at the surface. Anyway, I recommend for the ESP projects relatively big capacitors which might help in this case.
Nice tutorial. I did a review of the efficiencies of a buck boost and a LM7805 recently. The buck boost did not perform as expected. I did another video troubleshooting it. Turns out the boost chip was getting hot even when it should have been in buck mode. After removing the boost I got the efficiency the manufacturer promised but the output voltage dropped. Not sure why though.
Thankfully Dave set up a decent forum. While I did not get the direct answer from the responses it got me thinking along the correct lines.
Because of such things I made my next video on finding errors. Maybe you find there some procedures you used to find the issues ;-)
That would be very interesting. The solution I found is not the best.
I will not solve your problem, just show how errors can be found in general ;-)
I know. You may not be able to replicate my problem. Its the troubleshooting steps that I may not have thought of that are important.
Also I am moving locations in 2 weeks so I will not have the said board or any electronic equipment. Regardless it would still be interesting to get the perspective on how to solve problems.
another exzellent presentation. I really love watching you as you really make things easy. Can you also post the types or AliExpress links of the regulators you measured. Will make live easier if I need one to order
I think I placed the links of the two switches. the others can be found by entering the part number.
Thanks a lot for this lesson and measuring the spectrum of the DC/DC converters. So These tiny switchers are not compatible with the cheap radar devices. But a 7805 helps out.
A very interesting topic ist the stability of the regulators. The LDO & low quiescent current seems to be more sensitive to ESR of capacitive loads ; the old 78xx and the AMS1117 seem to be more robust in that aspect.
I think, Regulators have many aspects. I just got a mail fromTI with their selection. Overwhelming. Obviously different applications need different LDOs...
BTW: Radars are higher. Maybe they would survive it from an RF point of view...
Btw: These tiny DC/DC converters are compatible with ESP8266 and ESP32 although their EMC behaviour.
In some applications I am using them in a small metal can. These cans were reused and they originally the contained a kind of medicine ("Ipalat"). Hope this also helps a bit against EMC ;-)
Yes TI has a lot of brillant regulators and I know them from my business.
Sometimes you can get some of them in reused products of automotive industry on ali or eBay. But up to now I could not find readymade modules using modern TI regulators on our typical sources. Maybe you TI contact Person can help?
I tried to use These tiny DC/DC converters with the Radar motion sensors and the HB100 as well. It did not work properly. On Petes blog you can find some filters proposed (tech.scargill.net/microwave-for-the-weekend/). Maybe it helps, using a 7805 was faster and simpler for me.
You will find a link to the discussions about radar sensors and ESP8266 in my new video. It is very interesting...
New Video? #183 or #184 we all are waiting for?
Always a pleasure
Thank you!
Pulled up my chair to this one.👌🏿
Was necessary, I think. Became a little longer than planned...
I love your videos, than you very much! :-)
You are welcome!
Another great video.
:-)
Very useful ! Thanks !
You are welcome
Nice video
:-)
Klasse Video!
Danke!
Very good video !
Thanks!
Andreas, another excellent presentation. It would be useful if you could do one specifically on low voltage (
whitefields5595 You can check Texas Instruments TPS63020 device. This one is a buck boost for single cell lipo batteries and has quiescent current of about 30uA. Pretty much the best i found so far as buck boost converter. I am waiting for the chineese guys to make some designs and selling them on aliexpress... Well, I can provide ready design files, if some one needs...
STPCmt, thanks so much for this. I will ask my local supplier to get some in for evaluation
whitefields5595 if you do, please check, that PS/Sync pin of the chip is connected to ground, or the quiescent current will be more likly in mA... I made this error in my first design, by just copy their sample design, where it is connected to VinA, resulting in continous current mode... I use it in combination with Linear LTC4067 as charger... I like this combo, but it is kind of expensive, compared to the chineese stuff.
You are very kind, thank you. I will let you know how I get on. I've used the 18650 on my bike to make a computer and am now developing a power meter based on strain gauges on the pedal crank. I've got LED strip brake lights driven by a boost converter , RTC and a OLED display. I'm pleased I can power all this from the 18650 but have to be careful as the voltage drops, hence my post.
I would be interested in the design file...
Great video! I wish I would have watched it before I made the experience that my 1A regulator overheated already with 0.2A. There are two issues for which I would like to see more info (maybe you have it already in another video). Which capacitors (size and type) should be used with the regulators? Which temperature is acceptable i.e. in a small case? I know the datasheets have some information about both these points but I am sure you have additional practical advice. Thanks
We also use the data sheets for our work. Not a lot to add.
To avoid that the ESP does unwanted resets I add a 1000uF capacitor. Maybe you watch my deep sleep video if you are interested.
@@AndreasSpiess Thanks for your fast reply. I had a problem with an Arduino Mega 2560 Pro Mini with USB power supply. It stopped working after a few seconds. I added a 470uF capacitor and all worked fine. I was surprised that the USB port from my expensive ASUS Motherboard was not "good enough". I watched already your deep sleep video. Interesting!
Thank you very dear
You are welcome!
another great video
:-)
Very nice video!
Thanks!
Very nice, fun to see the resistor die, I was thinking you might kill a buck converter too with an over load :-)
you can kill them with an overvoltage @ the input but they are overload protected. These particular devices are advertised to deliver 3A but they will stop working a bit earlier.
Excellent video as always! What if saving money is not the primary goal? Instead if we wanted to focus first on efficiency and then on a smooth output with low noise? How can we find such?
As mentioned, it depends on the input voltage. For a Lipo and 3.3 volts, I probably would go with an LDO. Switchers are always the second choice for me because of ripple and noise. I only use them if I need.
Maybe connecting a switching regulator with a voltage slightly higher than the output to an LDO? This would be quite efficient since the LDO only has to drop a few millivolts and smooth because of the LDO's noise rejection. And for a LiPo, the best would be a buck-boost converter since, with an LDO or buck converter, the voltage must be higher than 3.3 V for the MCU to operate properly. Better use 2 smaller cells in series and a buck converter. And probably some EMI shielding (a piece of aluminium foil should do).
This video needs more keywords in the description - did almost not find!! please add buck buck boost and all other keywords! boost this video!
Thanks for the tip. Done.
"This is more a heating element than a power supply" :D
:-)
Mounting four resistors in series is not 4 x 5 watts it is the same as your 10 volt drop but 10/4 across each, 2.5volt x 0.5amp or 1.25watts
I said they are rated at 20 watts, not that they got 20 watts. As you point out, they still only had to dissipate the 5 watts.
Simply use an LC low pass filter to filter the high frequencies
If it always would be so easy...
Sir, I want to build AC dimming circuit for smart home project. Can you share some tips 🙂. Really enjoy your videos.
So far I have no plans for such a video :-(
@@AndreasSpiess Ok :`) . Take love from Bangladesh
Request for research: two load scenarios (a) 3.3v micro/arduino and (b) 5v micro/arduino... Power source: Battery operated using 2x18650 either in series with a buck converter or in parallel with a boost converter.. My guess is on the serial/buck being the best option
I still have a plan to finish my solar video. But it will most probably be for 3.3 volts.
It was only an idea for a video... Not a demand...
“Magic Smoke” 😀
:-)
Excellent
:-)
Hi, Andreas. During 17:58 while you were talking about measuring current, I see your probe is actually measuring voltage?
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Welcome aboard the channel!
YES ! We engineers can postpone reanimation from friday afternoon to monday morning - and still be successful :-)
:-))
Buck-boost and SEPIC are not the same thing.
There are 4 different topologies used as combined step-up and step down:
1. Buck-boost en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck%E2%80%93boost_converter
2. SEPIC en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single-ended_primary-inductor_converter
3. ZETA (inverse SEPIC) www.electronicsweekly.com/blogs/engineer-in-wonderland/zeta-that-other-dc-dc-topology-2016-05/
4. Ćuk en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C4%86uk_converter
Thanks for the clarification!
Hi, I am searching for a regulator circuit ic for lowering the voltage from 27 to 24 volta at 15 amperes. I am not able to find any which supports more than 8 amperes. Example LM2576 ic supports max 3 amperes, i need one which can use 15 amps. Please suggest.
Great video. I've learn so much from it. What do I have to watch out for step up regular? I'm making projects with Raspberry Pi and it take 5V, but most re-chargeable battery is 3.7V.
Just look out for a regulator with 5 volt out and 3 volt in