My thoughts on 0.8mm nozzle upgrade for Prusa
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2021
- A short video about 0.8mm nozzle upgrade for Prusa 3D printer. This is not directly related to the robotics, but still, 3D printer is a tool which I used the most.
The link to the upgrade: www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
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#DIY - Наука та технологія
Not very interesting video. But I wanted to make it, for all the people, who are as me looking for the large nozzle 3D printer.
Actually it is a very useful video
Larger nozzle is not an upgrade. It's just one of the tools you choose depending on the job. More powerful hotend is an upgrade indeed. Works even for default 0.4mm nozzle
The video is interesting and informative) True, if you apply the theme of your channel, it would be much cooler to apply your knowledge of brushless motors to a 3D printer)) Install different BLDS engines and watch how the 3D printer will print, this will be cool content, and it will be very useful for us and in your channel topic)
You could buy the sapphire plus for 400$ install the orbiter extruder and Klipper. And you will get 2.5 times the speed. Then change the nozzle and you will be flying.
I would love to see you do a large format. Whether you buy a printer just to upgrade, upgrade one you have or build something moster like the voron. I think it's a great idea and would love to see it!
Yes build the voron, it’s the dream printer 🤩
*facepalm.jpeg*
You make some good points about the requirements for larger nozzles. Thanks for taking time to make this video.
Thank you for this personal approach on Prusa and 3D printing in general. Much appreciated !
I just love your videos, thanks again. Just bought my second printer a Prusa Mini +. like it a lot.
I agree with you about the wire management on the Prusa. Luckily, IF you don't have to mess with it after initial assembly, it usually survives without much more trouble. Unfortunately doing an upgrade feels like more work than doing the initial kit assembly, at least is was so for me.
It's weird that printers that cost so much less than a Prusa seem to have their wiring figured out. Why doesn't Prusa offer a wiring harness that doesn't require a bunch of extra wire to be wrapped into a ball and crammed into the CPU box?
Thank You for explaining how different nozzle sizes require different cooling systems.
Shots fired on creality! Agree 100%.
I just bought a Prusa MK3S+, assembled it and I've just printed a handful of parts and I couldn't agree more about the assembly. It has worked perfectly for me on the few prints I've done, which is I guess the reason people buy them. However, I think there are a few other things that aren't so great about the Prusa. The screen is very low resolution. I have two versions of a part with a long name and I have to wait for it to scroll across the screen until I can see which version it is. Seems pretty silly in this day and age with fairly cheap high resolution screens. I also want to print ASA/ABS, which requires an enclosure. Personally I would like to keep the parts that are susceptible to heat OUTSIDE the enclosure, but they have electronics on the left side, electronics on the front and the power supply on the right. They are all over the place. Very difficult to place all of those outside of an enclosure. So much work. But, hey, so far it's worked flawlessly, which I appreciate as a newb. Thanks for the video.
I'm quite happy with my Prusa :) Only thing i changed is the nozzle to 0.6 witch is a decent compromise speed / quality. I also have a creality cr10 max as a second printer and .... you just made me think if i can upgrade it to a 0.8 or 1mm nozzle . Thanks :) Btw .... I didn't had time at all to continue work on the inmoov arm . hopefully in autumn i will have more time
0.8mm nozzle is fine, as long as you lower the flow and the retraction settings. been a 0.8mm addict since december 2019 and will never look back. I recommend the klemco mount, a volcano hotend, PEI bed and a titan extruder for anybody with an ender style printer who wants to upgrade. with everything I just described you can build a 300x300x400 printer for under 550 USD with the kingroon or creasee large printers
Now I use my 0.8mm prusa all the time! It is very useful size, quite precise, and very fast
Easily swappable heads would be pretty cool to see, I know a full head assembly is not cheap, but it's cheaper than an extra 3d printer.
I use a 1mm nozzle mostly, on my old trusty plywood i3 with typical chinese v6 clone hotend.
I find the biggest issue is the slicer especially at the seams (very especially seams on curves), I tried all sorts of things and basically came to the conclusion that the slicer just wasn't designed to work with large nozzles (both cura and slic3r/prusaslicer) and the problems I was seeing were just inherent in that.
Now I post-process the gcode to largely mitigate that seam issue by adding some delay and extra extrusion at seams and it works quite well. Saves a lot of time, and for functional prints the x/y resolution sacrificed isn't usually a problem. I usually use 0.65mm layers, but vary it down to 0.3 as required.
@Skyentific The Artillery Genius and Sidewinder X1 are great affordable printers with a volcano hot end built in for around $250 usd or so.
Love your videos as always and keep up the good work!
I replaced the whole wiring of my genius and the bed, now it’s okayish. Also the extruder is not very reliable. It’s cheap, but i won’t recommend it.
i have a sidewinder x1. really love it, i am able to swap between 0.4 and 0.8mm nozzles with just a slicer profile switch.
Build a voron Printer! You won't be disapointed 😊👍🏼
Have you seen CnC Kitchen's video on the Bondtech CHT nozzles? It seems like these new nozzles work even better than a Volcano and you don't need to modify the printer.
Agree. But I made this modification before his video. Now I would rather use this nozzle.
Have you tried the new Volcano extruder with a smaller 0.4 nozzle? I mean, once upgraded to this solution, is it still possible to print at original quality?
Looking forward to the build and what you make from it. Building a 2.4 myself, nearly there as applying the finishing touches to the bed and then wiring and setup and tuning. Any idea which Voron you might be going for?
I would love to go also with 2.4. It looks really promising.
A 2.5x performance increase seems monumental. And worth the time and effort you invested. 2.5 times faster production is almost unbelievable.I appreciate that you directly point out the degradation in precision. Showing that the details inside the place are rough while the outside dimensions remain stable. It is a trade off. But as you say it has an important place as a second printer for large or bulk items. It was not until I had watched the entire video that I understood why you emphasized so strongly the need for a low cost large nozzle printer. Have you ever reached out to a company such as Creality?
Of course I say all of this as an armchair viewer. For example I couldn’t even compile Linux with instructions. Lol. So this comment is meant to support your channel traffic. Thank you.
I am still loving my Prusa workhorse...but I guess I will not mess with it, never change a running system right? 😊
I like your new haircut! Thanks for all the great content.
This is my DIY haircut :))))
@@Skyentific I just emailed you about a possible firmware issue I am having with my own AK80-6 actuator. I can't tell what the error source is, and the T-Motor customer service wasn't much help for troubleshooting.
You know, I have been looking at doing a voron build and a hypercube (i go back and forth) and since i was planning on building a larger build vol, i debated on going with a larger nozzle and just make that my "large" format printer. I have an ender3 pro v2 that seems to be working great for my smaller stuff. maybe large build vol, and large nozzle is the right next step
Спасибо! видео интересное!
completely agree. I guess most people go the diy route whenever they need large scale printing although you probably could have used the original hotend just by lowering speeds. the hassle-free sweet spot is probably 0.6mm
I've been thinking about building one of these newer diy printers. The Voron seems pretty decent, I think it's popularity is one of the bigger plusses for it. The Hevort and the RatRig also seem like good options.
I would prefer to go with popular and decent solution. As I don’t want to tweak the printer profile, as it can take a loooot of time. I think people underestimate the importance of printer profile.
I've been upgrading my printer recently and it does take time to tweak the profile. I upgraded to klipper, orbiter 1.5, second z stepper, blokhead, e3dv6 and z axis supports. I enjoy the learning that comes with it. Klipper has made tweaking the printer profile a lot easier than marlin. Have you looked into the MPCNC? It seems like a project you might find interesting.
I was hesitating to try it, but I am afraid, it will completely consume me, and my channel will become CNC channel. :))))
if u want wire management pain. The bed wires on the AC I3 Mega S bump the levelling knobs and slowly lower one corner of the bed.
Tried 0.8mm didn't like it. Walls come out nicely but layer separation is really hard to avoid 😒
I do believe you will find that implementing linear advance will give you much better corners with a large nozzle. Voron is a good choice and will let you print large, fast and high quality. I'm looking at the Ratrig myself, it's a bit less expensive and can be purchased in a 500x500 mm size.
FWIW I'm building a 500x500 Rat Rig myself. Once I started building, I realized I have to build in the same room where I plan to use it. It's too big to fit through doors.
You're right it is a nightmare to assemble 🤣.
Prusa are the best printers!! :-p
LoL
Hey, check out Rat-Rig CoreXY. Better frame build IMO.
"some of your viewers" don't sound like 0:39 ;)
I think he's going to be in for a big surprise if he thinks assembling the prusa is easier to Han a voron.
Its listed as reasonably taking about 30-40 hours.
Voron... Whats abour HevORT or RatRig? Voron looks like not good idea.
Ratrig: I hate BLtouch, and I prefer wiring system of voron. Hevort has the same problems. For me it seems that voron has better design. Also it is more popular, thus it would be easier to find parts, printer profiles, etc.
Ratrig is actually also interesting. And you can use inductive probe.
Inductive probe without temperature compensation or separate Z endstop is meh. Bltouch works reliably on my printer for about 2 years and still no issues with repeatability.
Also you should check the BLV MGN Cube. Fysetc has a nice kit. Can be ordered with metal parts instead of 3D printed, so it's more precise and stiff.
Voron V2.4 is better in some aspects but more expensive, too.
@@gerleimarci There is also a variant of a home-made sensor similar to BLTouch. The author claims that the accuracy is much higher than that of the original. ua-cam.com/video/EOUAawAsApo/v-deo.html
Only 4 details. Optical sensor, micro-servo, rod, and printed holder.
The Prusa Printer has one extremely big downside: The moving bed. This makes it a mechanically bad design and increases the footprint unnecessarily... Considering the high price, then it is a bad deal for what you get. Prusa desperately needs a Core-XY machine!
There is no perfect 3D printer!
I like colors of the rabbit. Its like ukrainian flag :)
not your deepest area of expertise
For PLA, turn up the heat and, search youtube "Volcano is Obsolete~Just use Nuts" (=cheap hotend Mod)...