Just having a wonderful play with my ABS valve block identical looking to yours mine is on a 2008 Citroen C5 saloon . after a brake pad replacement and fluid flush the test drive didn't go too well, the brake pedal went gently to the floor ... NOT GOOD. decided to have a play with my Foxwell NT630- Plus ABS scan tool. the prompt from the scanner showed LISTEN . I guess that one or more of the Valves was not clicking indicating that the valve was not moving when told to by the scan tool. You Tube came up with a guy who experienced the same problem .He suggested warming up the valve body . a kettle of boiling water poured over the valve body achieved a reasonably hot / heated aluminium ABS valve block unit .. some frantic tapping with a 2 oz hammer seemingly freed off the / any stuck valve/s and the pedal no longer sank slowly to the floor . A few fast ish test stops on a grassy field confirmed that the ABS was functioning as it should . Now all that is required is for the new brake pads to bed in. My brakes were fine prior to the brake pad and fluid flush service i did . Seemingly brakes with ABS are super sensitive to any muck / contaminates in the brake system .. compressing the caliper pistons without slackening the caliper bleed nipples is a no no .. The sudden rush of fluid travelling through the ABS unit back into the master cylinder reservoir efficiently dislodges any and all muck sitting quietly in the passageways and deposits it all over the ABS valve bodies and valve filter screens . It all goes to show that a £ 7 pound brake fluid flush every now and then will almost certainly avoid these contamination failures . Brake fluid dip test strips ? never heard of them. I saw them being used on You Tube. will indicate when your brake fluid is in need of a good flush . Have fun hope your abs bleeding goes smoothly .. My Foxwell NT630 Plus scan tool is a breeze to use and is worth every penny .£120 ish Use it twice and it has paid for itself ...
So how did you know it wasn't the module going or having went bad on the ABS module and pump system there ? Changing the pump i get but what testing was done to determine whether the module itself was bad or not ?
Was the abs pump leaking? Was that the reason for the replacement? And also did you have to drain the brake fluid before pulling it out? Thank you, this video helped me a lot.
Perfect! Do u buy another new abs one should be the same code with the previous one abs? I bought the new abs one with different last of two letter code on abs previous one
The codes should be identical as they are vehicle model specific. Each module controller is programmed to the vehicle VIN. As stated in the video, swapping the original controller onto the replacement pump body will avoid having to have the module flashed by the dealer. Once you swap an ABS pump/controller assembly with a replacement, whether used or new, you will get the ABS and traction lights come on your dash until the replacement is flashed. You can transfer the programming from the original module to the replacement module if you have the proper scan tool (about $700-$1000) and software that is registered with Ford (also additional cost). That is why most either keep their original controller or pay the dealer to program the replacement ABS controller.
I lost the T40 bolt holding the bracket. The one that is one inch from the front of the motor. Do you know what size that is? Your video was very helpful and clear. Thanks!
Dave, thank you for the vids. I am in the middle of having to do this right now. The part is extremely expensive to buy new as you probably know. How did you ensure this was a tested and working unit before purchase or removal? I am contemplating getting one from a yard but don't want to go through all this work to find out the one from the yard does not work.
I found one from a totalled car with less than 50,000 miles on it. Still a risk but figured with the low miles I should be good. I did have a shop bleed it for me as I don't have a tech2 tool to activate the abs during bleed
Jd the video you referred to is gone. The reference to it here is gone now. The junk yard pumps are risky. I put one in and it worked but the pump leaked. So I had to put the old one back in. I have another junk yard pump to put in again. This is the price you pay to save money. It sucks. The bracket can stay in. Leave it bolted down. Take one 17mm bolt off the side, squirt a little oil on the two bottom rubber grommets where the studs go through then pry the pump block up with a wonder bar (flat nail puller) till the studs pull out of the grommets. This is done after removing the brake lines of course.
Just buy them from ebay since most of the sellers offer a warranty.. they cost less then a junk yard... Around $50.00 on ebay with warranty .. they sale the complete pump with the module incase the module is defective?..
They have test ports on them. Stick a small rod into the hole under the rubber caps. Anything over 1/4" travel. The seal is bad or someone pushed the brake cylinder back into the master cylinder. Thus pushing trash back into the ABS. Which jams the valve open. Why you should open the bleeder valve on brakes. I fix these that people think are bad. You can clean them out using the scanner to cycle the pump valves. Unless the control module is bad mount on the outside. Then your fucked..They cost a fortune..
So what's the procedure to re program the replaced abs module ? I am asking bcuz i think my wife 07 edge sel awd suv needs a new abs module and i need to know how that aspect for re programing of it goes. Thank you.
Patrick Roedell I do not know how to repair the unit. This is a video showing how to replace the unit. With the way a failed abs pump makes this car not stop I do not trust myself to repair the unit. I would rather replace with a tested working unit.
@@daveaffolter9697 Nothing to repair in them. It's either the seals bad. Trash in the Valve jams it open. Or the module has failed. I never seen a bad servo. Just replace the seals. Clean the rusty trash out. Then cycle each valve with a power source. If you don't have an ABS scanner\cycle tool.. I just buy the scanner. There only $60.00 and you can flush the air out in 30 seconds....And don't jam them brake pads back into the cylinder. That is what jams the ABS valves open. Open the damn bleeder..
@@AustinWilhite Look on eBay for MaxiCheck Pro. When they show up used. There cheap. Hell you don't even need a scanner. You can do it by cycling the servos with a power source. Just remove the rubber that covers the service ports. Stick a small screw driver in there. Cycle it several times. You can now see if its deeper or still stuck. At that point. You have to replace it... And I will say it again. Stop pushing that used old brake fluid back through the system. Open the damn bleeder valve on the caliper..As I get these jobs all the time. Some I can't fix. There is just to much trash in the ABS..
Just having a wonderful play with my ABS valve block identical looking to yours mine is on a 2008 Citroen C5 saloon . after a brake pad replacement and fluid flush the test drive didn't go too well, the brake pedal went gently to the floor ... NOT GOOD.
decided to have a play with my Foxwell NT630- Plus ABS scan tool. the prompt from the scanner showed LISTEN . I guess that one or more of the Valves was not clicking indicating that the valve was not moving when told to by the scan tool. You Tube came up with a guy who experienced the same problem .He suggested warming up the valve body . a kettle of boiling water poured over the valve body achieved a reasonably hot / heated aluminium ABS valve block unit .. some frantic tapping with a 2 oz hammer seemingly freed off the / any stuck valve/s and the pedal no longer sank slowly to the floor . A few fast ish test stops on a grassy field confirmed that the ABS was functioning as it should . Now all that is required is for the new brake pads to bed in. My brakes were fine prior to the brake pad and fluid flush service i did . Seemingly brakes with ABS are super sensitive to any muck / contaminates in the brake system .. compressing the caliper pistons without slackening the caliper bleed nipples is a no no .. The sudden rush of fluid travelling through the ABS unit back into the master cylinder reservoir efficiently dislodges any and all muck sitting quietly in the passageways and deposits it all over the ABS valve bodies and valve filter screens . It all goes to show that a £ 7 pound brake fluid flush every now and then will almost certainly avoid these contamination failures . Brake fluid dip test strips ? never heard of them. I saw them being used on You Tube. will indicate when your brake fluid is in need of a good flush . Have fun hope your abs bleeding goes smoothly .. My Foxwell NT630 Plus scan tool is a breeze to use and is worth every penny .£120 ish Use it twice and it has paid for itself ...
So how did you know it wasn't the module going or having went bad on the ABS module and pump system there ? Changing the pump i get but what testing was done to determine whether the module itself was bad or not ?
Was the abs pump leaking? Was that the reason for the replacement? And also did you have to drain the brake fluid before pulling it out? Thank you, this video helped me a lot.
Thanks Dude!!!, a great video.
Excellent video thank you
Thank you. And thanks for watching
Excellent video. Great work. Thank you
Perfect!
Do u buy another new abs one should be the same code with the previous one abs?
I bought the new abs one with different last of two letter code on abs previous one
The codes should be identical as they are vehicle model specific. Each module controller is programmed to the vehicle VIN. As stated in the video, swapping the original controller onto the replacement pump body will avoid having to have the module flashed by the dealer. Once you swap an ABS pump/controller assembly with a replacement, whether used or new, you will get the ABS and traction lights come on your dash until the replacement is flashed. You can transfer the programming from the original module to the replacement module if you have the proper scan tool (about $700-$1000) and software that is registered with Ford (also additional cost). That is why most either keep their original controller or pay the dealer to program the replacement ABS controller.
I lost the T40 bolt holding the bracket. The one that is one inch from the
front of the motor. Do you know what size that is? Your video was very helpful and clear. Thanks!
No I do not know the size. If you are unable to figure it out your best bet might be to get one from a junkyard/salvage lot
did you completely drain the brake system beforehand?
how did you depressurize the unit before removing the brake lines?
I just put a rag around one of the fittings and loosened it up letting the rag soak up the fluid
this is a great video! thank you, will be doing this repair for a customer!
Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with the repair
did you have an abs and traction light? i have the abs code c1095, i thought it was just a bad abd control module, i have a 2008 mkz
I can't remember what lights were on and what codes it had. I hope you get it figured out and good luck
Dave, thank you for the vids. I am in the middle of having to do this right now. The part is extremely expensive to buy new as you probably know. How did you ensure this was a tested and working unit before purchase or removal? I am contemplating getting one from a yard but don't want to go through all this work to find out the one from the yard does not work.
I found one from a totalled car with less than 50,000 miles on it. Still a risk but figured with the low miles I should be good. I did have a shop bleed it for me as I don't have a tech2 tool to activate the abs during bleed
Jd the video you referred to is gone. The reference to it here is gone now. The junk yard pumps are risky. I put one in and it worked but the pump leaked. So I had to put the old one back in. I have another junk yard pump to put in again. This is the price you pay to save money. It sucks. The bracket can stay in. Leave it bolted down. Take one 17mm bolt off the side, squirt a little oil on the two bottom rubber grommets where the studs go through then pry the pump block up with a wonder bar (flat nail puller) till the studs pull out of the grommets. This is done after removing the brake lines of course.
@@jefsel881 thank you
@@laylag4mes466 thank you
Just buy them from ebay since most of the sellers offer a warranty.. they cost less then a junk yard... Around $50.00 on ebay with warranty .. they sale the complete pump with the module incase the module is defective?..
what were the symptoms to point to a bad ABS pump??
If the abs engaged it would take a long distance to stop. Not safe at all
They have test ports on them. Stick a small rod into the hole under the rubber caps. Anything over 1/4" travel. The seal is bad or someone pushed the brake cylinder back into the master cylinder. Thus pushing trash back into the ABS. Which jams the valve open. Why you should open the bleeder valve on brakes. I fix these that people think are bad. You can clean them out using the scanner to cycle the pump valves. Unless the control module is bad mount on the outside. Then your fucked..They cost a fortune..
Master Chief 00117 could you be more descriptive?? Thx
Is this a 6 cylinder or 4?
This is a 4 cylinder
If is the same part number, then it does need to be reprogrammed. In my case my module is the fault.
Did your module throw any fault codes?
So what's the procedure to re program the replaced abs module ? I am asking bcuz i think my wife 07 edge sel awd suv needs a new abs module and i need to know how that aspect for re programing of it goes. Thank you.
Why no shots taking valves etc out of the unit. Thats how you repair the unit
Patrick Roedell I do not know how to repair the unit. This is a video showing how to replace the unit. With the way a failed abs pump makes this car not stop I do not trust myself to repair the unit. I would rather replace with a tested working unit.
@@daveaffolter9697 what about when replacing the abs module. Do you what are the steps?
Why does it need a reprogram if it is the same part?
@@daveaffolter9697 Nothing to repair in them. It's either the seals bad. Trash in the Valve jams it open. Or the module has failed. I never seen a bad servo. Just replace the seals. Clean the rusty trash out. Then cycle each valve with a power source. If you don't have an ABS scanner\cycle tool.. I just buy the scanner. There only $60.00 and you can flush the air out in 30 seconds....And don't jam them brake pads back into the cylinder. That is what jams the ABS valves open. Open the damn bleeder..
@@MasterChief-sl9ro What scanner can you use for this that you can buy for $60?
@@AustinWilhite Look on eBay for MaxiCheck Pro. When they show up used. There cheap.
Hell you don't even need a scanner. You can do it by cycling the servos with a power source. Just remove the rubber that covers the service ports. Stick a small screw driver in there. Cycle it several times. You can now see if its deeper or still stuck. At that point. You have to replace it...
And I will say it again. Stop pushing that used old brake fluid back through the system. Open the damn bleeder valve on the caliper..As I get these jobs all the time. Some I can't fix. There is just to much trash in the ABS..
talk up so we can hear you
Stupid Ford dising with that bolt..