Hope you got the 300 Utility running. It's a great tractor for small farm work. My dad bought one second-hand equipped with a loader in 1958. I think he paid $3000 and used it almost every day for the next fifty years. He pulled a 3-bottom plow and an eight-foot disc on a sixty-acre farm. He ran an Oliver combine with it and baled hay as well. My brother overhauled the tractor about fifteen years ago and still uses it to pull hay wagons. The Torque Amplifier is a great feature when the tractor is working hard. The Fast Hitch has down pressure so you can lift the rear of the tractor off the ground if you need to install snow chains. Good luck with your restoration.
Great story! My 1958 went from the factory to Conomatic-Pippin in Connecticut for a backhoe and loader installation. Good to hear that your family is getting your $3000 out of it.
I have owned 2 300 utilities and one 350 Hi Utility. I used one for 16 years. They are great tractors way ahead of Ford very dependable easy to start and tough as nails.
Yeah it's two years on now since you picked this up but still-Great find! I just put the cheap carb kit in my 57/58 IH 350 UTILITY with the C175 engine.. Pretty reliable old machine with the Pertronix ignition I put in 8+ years ago. Also now a 12 volt with alternator.
With the old vehicles one of the first things I'd do is put in new plugs and wires. I know you don't like to "waste" money, but to me just knowing that part is covered was always worth it. Distributor .... points? They are expenses, of course, but an old car, truck or tractor is uncharted territory for a new owner. The more things you can cross off the list, the less confused you will feel. Good luck, and at some point you will have fun.
My dad had a 1946 International model M Farmall. Carbs are tough on those old guys. Dad never rebuilt his, just pulled the fuel line and cleaned the screen that's there. And he replaced cap/rotor, plugs and wires when he bought it... around 1983. Oh yeah it's still going. Head rebuild with hardened seats and valves will have it running good on the unleaded fuel it wasn't made to use, originally.
Fuel leaking into the intake hose usual means a float problem (sticking or bent). Floats work to shut off gas, when the bowl is full, much the same way a toilet tank float works to control water levels in the toilet tank. Thought I saw an alternator in the vid. Was the electric changed to 12 volt neg ground at some point. A lot of the old tractors were 6 volt and some even had a positive ground system.
I like the homemade hard pipe for the rear hydraulics; I might do the same w/ valves to dual purpose my loader tilt (same you'd have to do since these can have a max of 3 factory valves).
If you’re in Ontario and need parts, rather than waiting for items being shipped from the US, you might want to try Ontario Used Tractor Parts in Londesborough, he’s good to deal with and carries lots of used parts and new Steiner stuff.
Good to hear from you. You will have fun with that old tractor. But be careful. They can hurt you. That manual steering will be hard to turn with all that weight on the front end. Grease all your steering linkage and air front tires to max. It will help with steering. I agree with your farmer on the carburetor.
So glad to see your post! Missed you. You make very informative content and this is another example. You're going to have a great time with that tractor, the bucket is great but probably needs some TLC. And grease. lol
Once you get that carb checked out the number one thing that ruins a good carb rebuild is debris coming in from the tank, line or dirty filter. Would recommend if it has an old rubber line from the tank to the carb to replace it. If it is metal flush it out with solvent or carb cleaner and install a good fuel filter right before the carb to keep dirt and debris from sticking the needle and flooding the engine and or stopping up the jet or carb passages. Good luck you'll get it fixed stick with it.
I'm looking at a 300 right now. The steering pump is leaking. I'm not sure what is involved in repairing that. It's a nice tractor. I would think if the float was sticking, there would be gas running out just setting there. I have an M tractor and that's the way it was. Happy repairs to you. Thanks for sharing Iowa is watching.
My first tractor, purchased in 1998, was a 1948 Ford 8n. Similar size and style as yours and very useful on acreage, on a budget. My current tractor is a late model Kubota Diesel, 4 Wheel drive unit, with a backhoe.
I wonder if the Muriatic Acid ruined that Venturi. I'm not sure if it's Zinc or Aluminum but both will dissolve in it I believe. There was also a paste coming off of it at one point that you were thinking was sealant after the treatment. I think it was the metal as a paste. In the video it looked like the Venturi had shrank from before. I had a Venturi that I cleaned that was out of my H in Pine sol and it reacted to that and Muriatic Acid is much harsher. Although going forward I'll be using that method to clean my carbs I'm just going to be quick with the reactive metals.
I see you initial put your snow blower on the ground, after unloading it. I set my implements on pallets to keep them off the ground and out of the dirt, when they not in use. Having them up a bit and level also helps when attaching them to the 3 point rear as well.
Good day Back before sold farm in 88, we had W-4 & W-6 . The 4 had 152 your 300 has 169cu. in which us a super W-4 motor. Never ever had carb apart on them tractors. 1 3 5 bottom row R 2 4 top row of transmission. They were the most dependable tractor for starting, other than battery, so we just used crank,1 spin usually started them. Where did you buy guages from especially with tach? Thanks good luck
not 459 hours. more like 10,045 and 9/10th an hour. at 64 years old, if you ran it for 157 hours a year, it would be at 10,048 hours. i would assume this is most likely the case, as a tractor this small was mainly used for planting small rows, or running a bush-hog, pulling small trailers etc. 8 hours a day 20 days out of the year is 160 hours. so depending on the life it lived and or the farm it came from.... and keep in mind farmers work from sun up to sun down (more than 8 hrs a day)... it is possible this tractor could also be at 20,045 hrs. also that is not a true "real life" hour measured by the gauge. there is 2 styles. 1 measures time by voltage at certain RPM. so it is "hours at operating rpm"... which produced a certain voltage. the 2nd used a mechanical gear, and again "hours at operating rpm" which ran the gear at a certain speed. time ran at lower than operating rpm = less time recorded on both styles. ie: idling, driving slow pulling a trailer, etc etc.
You will have gas coming out of that when you crank it a lot if its not firing. It's normal! I bet you your spark ignition is off. Do you have spark? CLEAN THE POINTS!
Hope you got the 300 Utility running. It's a great tractor for small farm work. My dad bought one second-hand equipped with a loader in 1958. I think he paid $3000 and used it almost every day for the next fifty years. He pulled a 3-bottom plow and an eight-foot disc on a sixty-acre farm. He ran an Oliver combine with it and baled hay as well. My brother overhauled the tractor about fifteen years ago and still uses it to pull hay wagons. The Torque Amplifier is a great feature when the tractor is working hard. The Fast Hitch has down pressure so you can lift the rear of the tractor off the ground if you need to install snow chains. Good luck with your restoration.
Great story! My 1958 went from the factory to Conomatic-Pippin in Connecticut for a backhoe and loader installation. Good to hear that your family is getting your $3000 out of it.
I have owned 2 300 utilities and one 350 Hi Utility. I used one for 16 years. They are great tractors way ahead of Ford very dependable easy to start and tough as nails.
Yeah it's two years on now since you picked this up but still-Great find! I just put the cheap carb kit in my 57/58 IH 350 UTILITY with the C175 engine.. Pretty reliable old machine with the Pertronix ignition I put in 8+ years ago. Also now a 12 volt with alternator.
My dad did alot of barn cleaning with his 300 utility and Freeman scoop.
With the old vehicles one of the first things I'd do is put in new plugs and wires. I know you don't like to "waste" money, but to me just knowing that part is covered was always worth it. Distributor .... points? They are expenses, of course, but an old car, truck or tractor is uncharted territory for a new owner. The more things you can cross off the list, the less confused you will feel. Good luck, and at some point you will have fun.
I just bought one this summer love it
My dad had a 1946 International model M Farmall. Carbs are tough on those old guys. Dad never rebuilt his, just pulled the fuel line and cleaned the screen that's there. And he replaced cap/rotor, plugs and wires when he bought it... around 1983. Oh yeah it's still going. Head rebuild with hardened seats and valves will have it running good on the unleaded fuel it wasn't made to use, originally.
Fuel leaking into the intake hose usual means a float problem (sticking or bent). Floats work to shut off gas, when the bowl is full, much the same way a toilet tank float works to control water levels in the toilet tank.
Thought I saw an alternator in the vid. Was the electric changed to 12 volt neg ground at some point. A lot of the old tractors were 6 volt and some even had a positive ground system.
I like the homemade hard pipe for the rear hydraulics; I might do the same w/ valves to dual purpose my loader tilt (same you'd have to do since these can have a max of 3 factory valves).
If you’re in Ontario and need parts, rather than waiting for items being shipped from the US, you might want to try Ontario Used Tractor Parts in Londesborough, he’s good to deal with and carries lots of used parts and new Steiner stuff.
Good to hear from you. You will have fun with that old tractor. But be careful. They can hurt you.
That manual steering will be hard to turn with all that weight on the front end. Grease all your steering linkage and air front tires to max. It will help with steering.
I agree with your farmer on the carburetor.
Love it when I get an Uberism upload notification 👍. Always enjoyed your content.
Great video. Glad to see you are doing well.
Bummer! I can't wait to see the sequel👊🤞🤞 Always a pleasure to see your videos. Take care ❤
So glad to see your post! Missed you. You make very informative content and this is another example. You're going to have a great time with that tractor, the bucket is great but probably needs some TLC. And grease. lol
Once you get that carb checked out the number one thing that ruins a good carb rebuild is debris coming in from
the tank, line or dirty filter. Would recommend if it has an old rubber line from the tank to the carb to replace it.
If it is metal flush it out with solvent or carb cleaner and install a good fuel filter right before the carb to keep dirt
and debris from sticking the needle and flooding the engine and or stopping up the jet or carb passages. Good luck
you'll get it fixed stick with it.
I'm looking at a 300 right now. The steering pump is leaking. I'm not sure what is involved in repairing that. It's a nice tractor. I would think if the float was sticking, there would be gas running out just setting there. I have an M tractor and that's the way it was. Happy repairs to you. Thanks for sharing Iowa is watching.
My first tractor, purchased in 1998, was a 1948 Ford 8n. Similar size and style as yours and very useful on acreage, on a budget. My current tractor is a late model Kubota Diesel, 4 Wheel drive unit, with a backhoe.
Love your videos. The kids are getting so big!!!!
I wonder if the Muriatic Acid ruined that Venturi. I'm not sure if it's Zinc or Aluminum but both will dissolve in it I believe. There was also a paste coming off of it at one point that you were thinking was sealant after the treatment. I think it was the metal as a paste. In the video it looked like the Venturi had shrank from before. I had a Venturi that I cleaned that was out of my H in Pine sol and it reacted to that and Muriatic Acid is much harsher. Although going forward I'll be using that method to clean my carbs I'm just going to be quick with the reactive metals.
Enjoyable video.
I see you initial put your snow blower on the ground, after unloading it. I set my implements on pallets to keep them off the ground and out of the dirt, when they not in use. Having them up a bit and level also helps when attaching them to the 3 point rear as well.
the new bolt on snowplow may be a shear pin.
dude so happy to see u ...love ur stuff !!!
Don't give up
Did see were you checked to see spark jump on the spark plugs . Might be the points. Did you ever get it running?
When time permits, can you post an update on the carb? As the neighbor able to help get it working? Great video!
Good day Back before sold farm in 88, we had W-4 & W-6 . The 4 had 152 your 300 has 169cu. in which us a super W-4 motor. Never ever had carb apart on them tractors. 1 3 5 bottom row R 2 4 top row of transmission. They were the most dependable tractor for starting, other than battery, so we just used crank,1 spin usually started them. Where did you buy guages from especially with tach? Thanks good luck
I have a Massey Ferguson it was the best investment I ever made
Good work
Did you ever get the carb fixed? I have a 300 narrow front end that needs the carb rebuilt.
Nice find. I just bought a 1964 IH B414. Paid 1000 for it
I have a similar 300 Utility with a full loader and backhoe I’m going to be selling. Was my father in laws and he passed.
Mustie1 has lots of vids showing how to rebuild various carbs.
not 459 hours. more like 10,045 and 9/10th an hour. at 64 years old, if you ran it for 157 hours a year, it would be at 10,048 hours. i would assume this is most likely the case, as a tractor this small was mainly used for planting small rows, or running a bush-hog, pulling small trailers etc. 8 hours a day 20 days out of the year is 160 hours. so depending on the life it lived and or the farm it came from.... and keep in mind farmers work from sun up to sun down (more than 8 hrs a day)... it is possible this tractor could also be at 20,045 hrs. also that is not a true "real life" hour measured by the gauge. there is 2 styles. 1 measures time by voltage at certain RPM. so it is "hours at operating rpm"... which produced a certain voltage. the 2nd used a mechanical gear, and again "hours at operating rpm" which ran the gear at a certain speed. time ran at lower than operating rpm = less time recorded on both styles. ie: idling, driving slow pulling a trailer, etc etc.
Good vid as usual, was hopeing for a happy ending :(
Get yourself a pto cover/guard
You will have gas coming out of that when you crank it a lot if its not firing. It's normal! I bet you your spark ignition is off. Do you have spark? CLEAN THE POINTS!
if its not broken dont fix it.